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Spain and Morocco 2023
  • Marianne Gardner
  • Marianne Gardner

Spain and Morocco 2023

Walking the Camino Mozarabe from Almeria to Granada. Then Malaga and the Caminito del Rey. Then to Marrakech , Essaioura and back to Madrid. Read more
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  • Trip start
    October 3, 2023
    Marianne GardnerSpain and Morocco 2023Traveler

    Madrid Day 1

    October 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Landed in Madrid and took the Cercanias into Nuevos Ministerios. I have an AirBNB in Chamberi. Big delay getting through Chamartin, lots of construction going on. Managed to navigate to my digs without a local sim. Then the quest was on to find the Vodafone shop. Walked down Ponzano, just around the corner, now being written about in the foodie blogs for tapas. Found the Vodafone shop, but no prepaid sims. So , I didn’t intend going into central Madrid, but I know there is a very good Vodafone shop in Sol. No metro, more construction, but managed to understand the metro lady when she told me to take the bus, out of the station and to the left. Got off the bus at Cibeles and walked up to Sol. And the Vodafone shop at Sol delivered. Great service, 50Gb for 30 days for 10 euro. No excuse for getting lost now.
    So, a balmy warm evening in Madrid, I started walking. Down to the Plaza Mayor, stopped in at the church at Plaza Santiago, down to the Palace and Temple de Bod. All this walking and didn’t have to cross one road. All pedestrianised. I love this city.
    Now, Temple de Bod looks like an Egyptian temple, and sure enough, it is. The Egyptians gave it to the Spanish to thank them for helping out with constructing a dam and moving the temple. Although what lies underneath is equally as interesting, imo. This was the site of the Montana Barracks. A tragic and bloody siege took place at the beginning of the Civil War. You military types and history nerds can read more here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siege_of_the_Mont…
    The bit about the rifle bolts is instructive.
    From there, more walking through parks on a balmy evening. With my phone battery at 10%, thought it best to get the bus back to Chamberi before I got lost.
    So nice to be back in one of my favourite cities.    Read more

  • Marianne GardnerSpain and Morocco 2023Traveler

    Madrid Day 2

    October 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    The Museo Geominero is around the corner. The building is amazing. And there are a few dinosaur bones, mammoth bones, fossils and a lot of rocks.
    After a tostada and café cortado I went walking. I ended up at Parc Oeste and the Civil War Bunkers. No signage, no explanation - you need to know they are there.
    I continued on to La Casa de Campo, a huge park across the river and the M30 big road.
    If you know where to look, there are more sites from the Civil War, at the top of the hill of course. Decaying concrete bunkers and trenches. Makes for a great mountain bike park in 2023. The war in Madrid was a stalemate. The Nationalists bombed central Madrid from Casa de Campo and Parc Oeste, but didn’t occupy the city until the remaining Republican areas of Spain surrendered.
    It was getting hot, and luckily there is a metro station by the lake in the park.    Read more

  • Marianne GardnerSpain and Morocco 2023Traveler

    Madrid to Almeria - Train travelling day

    October 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Today I was up early to get the train from Atocha, Madrid to Almeria. 6am felt like the middle of the night.
    I walked to the nearest Cercanias station at Nuevos Ministerios. Renfe give you a free transfer when you buy a long distance ticket. They also give you access to a magazine app for 5 publications, including the Rugby News. Bonus. Though it was the September edition when Australia was all hopeful. But that’s another story.
    Managed to wrangle the free ticket with a lot of help from the ticket lady. Then Atocha, Madrids busiest station. The platform isn’t announced until about 4 minutes from departure. So there is a scramble to get down to the platform and on the train. And in my experience, Spanish trains run on time.
    Out through the southern industrial suburbs of Madrid with the sun rising around 8.30am. Then through Aranjuez. Aranjuez is a great day trip from Madrid - there is a big palace there and big gardens. Then through the plains of La Mancha - cheese and wine country. And windmills, old and new. Then into Andalucía. The train line goes through mountains and gorges, before we finally get to Almeria 6 hours after leaving Madrid.
    I had a quick walk around, went to the Archeology Museum to check out the Neanderthal, Bronze Age, Roman and Moorish history of where I will be walking. Then to the 19th Century Bridge built by Gustav Eiffel to ship minerals and other substances out to England. It’s called the Cagadero de Cable Inglés, the English Bridge.    Read more

  • Marianne GardnerSpain and Morocco 2023Traveler

    Almeria to Rioja to Alboloduy

    October 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Today got off to a good start, but didn’t finish up as planned.
    First day anxiety had me up early and walking at 7am. The way is very well signed with lots of yellow arrows to lead you out of Almeria. Past the football stadium, and into another suburb before the sunrise. Some river bed walking then through another small town. Then back to the river bed via some date palms.
    I knew when the Osbourne Bull came in site I was close to my albergue in Rioja. Osbourne Bulls were constructed along highways as advertising for a sherry company with an English name.
    I found the albergue but one problem - no water. Took a while to get the story, but a pipe had burst and nothing will be fixed until next week. Santa Fe de Monduhar has no room - there is a festival on this weekend.
    This being a great community camino, Mercedes picked me up in her car and drove me to Alboloduy. I will miss a stage but never mind. Lovely albergue here.    Read more

  • Marianne GardnerSpain and Morocco 2023Traveler
    Alboloduy

    Alboloduy to Nacimiento

    October 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    I started early in pitch dark at 7am. I was having regrets walking in the river bed in the dark. But nothing went wrong and daylight slowly appeared.
    There was a steep up hill to the road. Then a short stretch on the road. I wondered why a man in a blue van was waving at me, looked friendly enough so I smiled and waved back. Turned out it was Santiago from the bar in Nacimiento where I am staying tonight. Typical of this camino, there is a family of people who look after you.
    Across country and a steep downhill back to the river bed. Someone has built a patio over the track, but I clambered over the fence and walked through their patio. The alternative was a cliff.
    Nacimiento was soon in sight, and sure enough, Santiago was in the bar. Matteo from Argentina found a dodgy stream to watch the rugby. Though I think he is more into River Plate.
    Another warm balmy evening in a lovely town in Andalucía.    Read more

  • Marianne GardnerSpain and Morocco 2023Traveler

    Nacimiento to Abla

    October 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    An easier day today - no mountains , clouds, 2 places to stop and a coffee and tostada to start.
    The bar in Nacimiento was open early. I had a coffee and tostada. Typical of Spain, the man at the bar was having something stronger.
    The trail followed the river on a well formed track. A few little cars and vans went by, on their way to the farm plots along the river. Or hunting. Possibly rabbits (conejos) which is common on menus here.
    The first pueblo was Doña Maria. The guide book said there was no shop or bar in town. I was tempted to continue on the river bed, but glad I didn’t and followed the yellow arrows up into the town. There was a bar. Google, some friendly locals and “follow the noise” led me to the bar. Sure enough two men were shouting about football.
    Another cafe con leche then another good path to Ocaña. However, more friendly locals explained the bar is closed on Mondays.
    Onwards past an aqueduct not in the best repair, then on to Abla. A very nice town on the side of a hill. A bar with very good tapas and not much else open in the afternoon.    Read more

  • Marianne GardnerSpain and Morocco 2023Traveler

    Abla to Hueneja

    October 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Javier from Madrid cooked his family’s special rice recipe for Ramon the Hospitalier, Francisco from Seville and myself last night. Delicious.
    I set off around 7.30 with cloudy skies and the temperature cool. Very easy going on country lanes until Finaña.
    Finaña is a town on the side of a hill with at least two bars and a panadería (bakery). There is a
    mosque converted to a church and lots of evidence of the mozarabe history. Apparently Queen Isabella stayed here with her army before expelling the moors from Granada in the 1400s.
    More easy going on gravel roads to Venta Ratonera where Javier and Francisco passed me. Soon after I found them helping themselves to a fruit tree. Turned out to be delicious persimmons.
    After La Huertezuela the going got a bit tougher in the river bed. It is dry at the moment, but the last 5km into Hueneja were draining.
    Javier cooked us another lovely meal with local wine and cheese.    Read more

  • Marianne GardnerSpain and Morocco 2023Traveler

    Hueneja to Alquife

    October 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Today started with a bit of up to get out of town. Only 4 km to the first stop in Dólar. Unfortunately the bar was closed for renovations but the panadería was open.
    Then more up to Ferreira, more persimmons and the bar was open. More undulations to La Calahorra. This area was seen in such movies as The Good, the Bad and the Ugly, Once Upon a Time in the West and Dr Zhivago. The home of the spaghetti Westerns is not Italy. And apparently the train used in all of these movies is sitting in a shed somewhere nearby, the same train.
    It is Wednesday, the one day of the week the castle is open. I was making good time so I decided to go up and have a closer look, I asked at the town hall (ayuntamiento) if I could leave my bag (mochilla), but no. So I carried it up. Unfortunately you had to wait for a tour guide to go inside , and no one knew when that was going to happen. So I walked down again. A bit of a To the Lighthouse moment.
    It was a fairly easy walk to Alquife, past a huge mine, then up a hill to the albergue. The shop was closing at 2pm, I managed to leave my pole (bastón) at the counter, but it was still there at 5pm when the shop reopened.    Read more

  • Marianne GardnerSpain and Morocco 2023Traveler

    Alquife to Guadix

    October 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    Today was harder than expected. Especially the last 10 km. I saw the sun rise again, about half an hour after leaving Alquife. And some deer near a lake. I walked through the small town Jerez del Marquesado, then up and over a hill to Cogollos de Guadix. I found the bar and a well earned coffee. Today is Spains National Day, a public holiday, so there are lots of people around. Apparently the holiday commemorates when Colombus arrived in the Americas.
    I was promised a down hill all the way to Guadix, but the path had been covered in very thick, light gravel, so was tough going. Eventually I arrived in Guadix, with quite a long walk through the cave area to find the Casando de la Luz.    Read more

  • Marianne GardnerSpain and Morocco 2023Traveler

    Guadix to Baños Graena

    October 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Today was a short and easy walk and very pleasant. I stopped for a coffee on the way out of Guadix. It was a lot easier getting out of the city than getting in - through the plaza and past some Roman ruins. The path goes past cliffs and through pine forest. I stopped for a drink in Purullena, then it wasn’t far to Marchal and Dolores at Hotel Soledao in Baños Graena.Read more

  • Marianne GardnerSpain and Morocco 2023Traveler
    1

    Baños Graena to La Peza

    October 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Rain was forecast and rain it did. The rain was light but persistent. This was another beautiful walk, starting to get into the Sierra Nevada mountains.
    Some road walking to get up and over into La Peza. It appeared something is on in town, and sure enough, it is fiesta. Various bull activities are on, and a Gran Prix of community games that were nothing like I have ever seen before. Some involved cattle, and some involved people replacing their own clothes with various pieces of clothing gathered from the crowd. Started with hats, then shirts, then pants, then bras. Men chased around young bulls, leapt over them and tried to find ways to injure themselves. Ambulances were on standby but despite some anxious moments, no serious injuries. Good to have explanations from Richard and Richard, two English peregrinos who live in Spain.
    It is very late and very noisy in town.    Read more

  • Marianne GardnerSpain and Morocco 2023Traveler

    La Peza to Tocón de Quentár

    October 15, 2023 in Spain

    The night was very noisy. I think things went quiet about 7am. Then everyone was back to the bull ring at 9am. I contemplated staying around for the parade and the bull fight but decided to start walking before it got too hot.
    There was a lot of up out of La Peza, and great views across the valleys.
    I took the branch line down to Tocón de Quentár, and had the Albergue all to myself. A very small, isolated town with no cell coverage.    Read more

  • Marianne GardnerSpain and Morocco 2023Traveler

    Tocón de Quentár to Quentár

    October 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The trail wasn’t marked on my mapy.cz app, but there were plenty of yellow arrows to take me back up to the main trail from La Peza to Quentar.
    Lots of up meant spectacular views, including Mulhacén, the highest peak on the Spanish mainland.
    It was a long way down to Quentar, and a return to cell coverage.    Read more

  • Marianne GardnerSpain and Morocco 2023Traveler

    Quentár to Granada

    October 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    For a downhill day there was a lot of up to start with. I struggled finding the path out of Quentár. Then my mapy.cz app was playing up. Then I restarted my phone. Then I panicked because I needed the pin for the local sim card. After unpacking most of my bag at the bus stop I found the pin in my pocket.
    I walked the first 100m on the road with not much room for the bus to pass. Then it was a pleasant trail along the river to Dúdar. None of the bars were open, but it was only 2km. Then it was up, and more up, past an aqueduct and lots of bikes, motorbikes and walkers coming the other way.
    Eventually I got to the top and rejoined the path I had walked with Ciaran and Paul from Beas de Granada in 2015.
    It was a long walk into Granada along the river, under the Alhambra and into the city.
    And now I have finished this section of the Camino Mozarabe. No blisters, no injuries. I am very tired but pleased I completed this Camino successfully. It was harder than I expected, lots of uphills and downhills. Breaking the last 5 days into shorter stages worked well for me. Great support from the Almeria organization and the Albergues and other accommodation options were terrific.    Read more

  • Marianne GardnerSpain and Morocco 2023Traveler

    Caminito del Rey

    October 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    The Caminito del Rey was once a very dangerous path. The path was built by and for workers on Spain’s first hydro electric power station in the 1920s. The path was abandoned later in the century. But people saw it as a challenge and attempted to walk the old path.
    When several people died the government closed the site and rebuilt a new, much safer path that opened in 2015.
    You can see footage of the old path here:
    https://youtu.be/ZmDhRvvs5Xw?si=pL5ha_Bx-wqTurBd
    I booked a small group tour from Malaga via AirBNB with Alfonso. You can book tickets independently and travel to El Chorro by train from Malaga or Antequera. But the process is quite complicated.
    https://www.caminitodelrey.info/
    The photos are more scary than when you are on the path. But this path is not for you if you have a fear of heights.
    I loved every metre of it. The rocks and cliffs are beautiful colours. There are lots of birds, including vultures flying high above. We saw two mountain goats and one train.
    The whole landscape and history of this place are great.
    The trail is about 5km and we took 2 hours. We walked in from the most far away point, 1.5km from the start. There is a small amount of step climbing, but otherwise the trail is flat.    Read more

    Trip end
    November 9, 2023
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