• Budva

    19. syyskuuta 2022, Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    This beautiful town has grown to become the focal point of the Montenegran Riviera, a 35 km strip of the Adriatic coast, but the Old Town and the beaches still retain their charm.

    We explore the Old Town, a mini Dubrovnik with marbled streets and Venetian walls, which has been rebuilt after two earthquakes in 1979. We visit the churches and the Citadel before strolling off to the beach and a paddle.Lue lisää

  • Kotor Bay and Perast

    18. syyskuuta 2022, Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We're on a boat trip from Kotor around part of the beautiful Bay of Kotor; surrounded by steep mountains, it is reminiscent of a fjord (although it isn't).

    We soon arrive at two, small picturesque islets; the natural St George's Island and the man-made Our Lady of the Rock Island (15th century). The former houses a Benedictine Monastery and the latter a Church.

    We cross over to Prevast for a quick explore; after visiting St Nicholas Church, we have a walk around this beautiful, small town.
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  • Kotor City Walls and Fortress

    18. syyskuuta 2022, Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We access the walls from the Sea Gate after passing the Kampala Tower on the way. Walking up towards the open air theatre area there are good views if the town before entering town close to the North Gate and accessing the official walking route.

    It is a steep path, but after 650 steps we soon reach the Church of Our Lady of Remedy perched on the slope of St John Mountain. There are great views from here and as we climb up to the fortress itself. An excellent morning.
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  • Montenegro; Kotor Old Town

    17. syyskuuta 2022, Montenegro ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    Kotor is an old port lying beneath the slope of Mount Lovcen; it is surrounded by fortifications built onto the slope that date from the Venetian period. It is now a World Heritage Site and getting popular with large cruise ships that stop off for the night.

    We explore the triangular shaped Old Town (Stari Grad) at the Sea Gate (aka Wesr Gate) which was the original entrance from the port. We head to the Gurdic Gate (aka South Gate) and walk through the beautiful old town, seeing St Tryphon Cathedral and reaching the more cental St Luke's Church (which is both Orthodox and Catholic) and the Church of St Nicholas. After more lovely old streets, we reach the Church of St Mary and the River Gate (aka North Gate) on the other side of the Old Town.
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  • Melbourn and Meldreth Circular

    13. syyskuuta 2022, Englanti ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We start this walk at the Dunsbridge Turnpike, just off the A10, and outside the Green Man pub; the turnpike was a toll gate along the old Cambridge to Royston road and was in use 1793 - 1872.  We walk south along the River Shep and then turn off along the edge of the Kingsway Golf Centre before heading down the Cambridge Road to Melbourn.

    Melbourn is a large village in the far south-west of Cambridgeshire and on the edge of the River Mel.  All Saints Church is in the centre; only a couple of pubs remain in Melbourn now from its heyday of 11 inns in 1865.  We walk past Sheene Mill, a former 16th century mill house on the river and now an upmarket restaurant and wedding venue (we have been to friends' weddings there).  Our route takes us along the bank of the River Mel, past the edge of Melbourne Village College playing fields and then under the A10 and over (or under) the railway line that links Cambridge to Royston and then Kings Cross in London.

    The course of the River Mel is through the small Melwood Nature Reserve on the outskirts of Meldreth; this is a much smaller village than Melbourn.  We pass the gardens of the British Queen pub and carry on past an old mill (now part of a much larger house). A diversion into the village to Fenny Lane takes us to see the Prime Meridian marker here; this is where longitude is defined as 0° and the village happens to lie directly on this (it was unveiled on 4 December 1999 to celebrate the millennium). We double back and pass the Holy Trinity Church and join the road to Shepreth.

    We cut through Shepreth L-Moor (see earlier post) and then follow the path to Frog End down to the A10 and cross over back to the Dunsbridge Turnpike. 
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  • Snape circular walk to Snape Maltings

    4. heinäkuuta 2022, Englanti ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We start at Snape, a small village on the River Alde, and follow a route along the top of Snape Marshes (a combination of marsh, reedbed and wet woodland with lots of freshwater dykes) to reach the Sailor's Path (a beautiful route walked by sailors for hundreds of years between Snape Maltings and Aldeburgh).  We then cut down through Snape Warren Nature Reserve (an area of heathland, grassland and scrub) to reach the River Alde and walk up to Snape Bridge; there are excellent views all the way as we reach the bridge and cross over to vist Snape Maltings.

    Snape was originally a busy port; the site was purchased by the Victorian entrepeneur Newson Garrett who converted it to a maltings and used the River Alde to transport barley across Britain and into Europe on Thames barges - in 1854 he began malting at Snape, and was soon shipping malt, rather than barley, to breweries.  Malting ceased in 1965, however, and the site was purchased by a local farmer who leased the largest Malthouse to Benjamin Britten, who had the vision to see the building and the beautiful setting as a possible site for the rapidly growing Aldeburgh Music Festival.  From 1971 - 2014, the other buildings were converted to shops, galleries and accommodation and new buildings were developed to create a centre for music.  The complete site is now part of a music, arts and heritage charity - Britten Pears Arts. 

    We have a good look round Snape Maltings - it is well worth a visit
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  • Aldeburgh

    3. heinäkuuta 2022, Englanti ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Aldeburgh is a coastal town located to the north of the River Alde and was once a leading port with a flourishing shipbuilding industry; this declined as the river silted up and in the 1800s it became a fashionable tourist spot.

    We walk via the outskirts of town and along the edge of Aldeburgh Marshes to reach the River Alde and head to the coast and what was once Slaughden; this was originally a fishing village but was lost to erosion by the sea - the only surviving building is the unique quatrefoil Martello Tower.  From here it is along the promenade to pass some of the town's landmarks; the Fort Greem Mill (a four-storey windmill built in 1824 and converted into a dwelling in 1902), the Grade II listed Aldeburgh Beach Lookout (1830) and the Lifeboat Station.  We then go into town to walk along the High Street to see some of the sights there before returning to the promenade. Later on, we returned to enjoy Adnams beer at the White Hart Inn and fish and chips (the two family-run fish and chip shops here have been rated among the country's best) -

    We see the Moot Hall (a Grade I listed timber-framed building used for council meetings for over 400 years, that now also houses the local museum) and then walk up the Scallop, just beyond the town centre.  This sculpture (2003) is dedicated to Benjamin Britten, who would walk along the beach in the afternoons.

    Aldeburgh is a lovely place.
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  • Thorpeness and the House in the Clouds

    2. heinäkuuta 2022, Englanti ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We are visiting the Thorpeness area for the weekend as a friend has rented the House in the Clouds for a family celebration and invited his Devil's Dyke Morris Men colleagues to dance there and celebrate with him.

    Originally a small fishing hamlet, in the 1900s the wealthy Ogilvie family created a "fantasy holiday haven" here by blocking the outlet of the River Hundred, alreadty silted up, to create the Meare - 60 acres of shallow water, ornamental gardens and small islands.

    To hide the eyesore of having a water tower in the village, the tank was clad in wood to make it look like a small house on top of a tower; the House in the Clouds. The windmill outside it used to grind corn at Aldringham, but was moved here in 1923 to pump water up to the tower.

    The Morris Men dance here and we are treated to a tour of the house, which was an incredible experience as it is extremely quirky inside. We also walk round the village and Meare before heading back to our B&B in Aldeburgh. A great day!
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  • Bury St Edmunds; across the town

    24. kesäkuuta 2022, Englanti ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    A short walk away from the Abbey Gardens and Cathedral area is the Green King Brewery; there has been a brewery on this Westgate Street site since 1799 and opposite the Brew Cafe is the Theatre Royal, a Grade I listed restored Regency theatre. 

    We walk down Crown Street past the front of St Mary's Church to reach Angel Hill, where the iconic Abbey Gate is sited.  On Angel Hill are the historic buildings of both The Athenaeum, originally built in the 18th century as Assembly Rooms, and the distinctive facade of The Angel Hotel, where Charles Dickens stayed in 1859 and again in 1861.  There is also a lighthouse-shaped street sign commonly known as the "Pillar of Salt" opposite Norman Tower; built in 1935, the sign is now a listed monument and thought to be the England's first internally illuminated street sign.

    We walk up Abbeygate Street to see the Corn Exchange, now a Wetherspoons pub; opposite it on The Traverse is the famous Nutshell pub, reputedly the smallest public house in Britain.  We walk up Guildhall Street to see The Guildhall (a grade 1 listed building which dates back to the 13th century) before doubling back to reach Bury St Edmunds town centre square, The Cornhill.  The Market Cross building here has four decorative sculpted panels representing music and drama; across the square diagonally is Moyse's Hall, built in around 1180 originally as a town house but now a museum. 

    We walk down St John's Street to reach the quirky Smoking Monkey antiques shop and the St John the Evangelist Church, before turning off to reach The Old Cannon Brewery, an independent micro-brewery selling traditional English real ale since 1845. 
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  • Bury St Edmunds; Abbey Gardens

    24. kesäkuuta 2022, Englanti ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Bury St Edmunds, commonly referred to locally as Bury, is a picturesque market town steeped in history; the Saxons founded a monastery here about 633, which in 903 became the burial place of King Edmund the Martyr and the town grew around Bury St Edmunds Abbey, a site of pilgrimage.

    Our walking guide route starts at Abbot's Bridge, which dates back to the 12th century. We then enter the Abbey Gardens, a six hectare park on the site of the former Benedictine Abbey, and walk via the Sensory Gardens towards the Abbey Gate; in 1327 the Abbey was stormed by the townspeople, who destroyed the original Abbey Gate and much of the monastery. We then walk to the ruined buildings of the original monastery; on one of the pillars is a plaque commemorating the spot where, in 1214, the barons of England swore to compel King John to sign the document now known as the Magna Carta.  We double back to the Rose Garden and emerge into Cathedral Close to visit St Edmundsbury Cathedral itself; it only became a cathedral in 1914 and has been enlarged from the original parish church over the decades.

    Outside it is a statue of St Edmund and a small row of residential homes built into the original abbey walls; we then see the Norman Tower which historically has served as the bell tower to the Cathedral.  We pass the Martyr's Memorial to reach the Charnel House, which was built in the 13th century in order to store bones previously buried in the Great Churchyard.  St Mary's church lies to its right; completed in 1427, this has the longest nave of any parish church in England.  We leave the Abbey Gardens and nearby you can see large pieces of the old abbey embedded within a wall which skirts a lane; when Henry VIII dissolved the Bury St Edmund's Abbey in 1539, the towns people moved quickly to re-use the stone flints and mortar - evidence of their recycling can still be seen throughout the town.
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  • Newmarket

    20. kesäkuuta 2022, Englanti ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Newmarket is best known as the home of English horse racing and is located in a corner of Suffolk that nudges into Cambridgeshire. Originally a small village, Newmarket's transformation in fortunes is due its association with racing and royalty which extends back into the 17th century. The crucial event was the construction of Newmarket Palace by King James and a lodge for what would be the future King Charles I; they both loved the area and made frequent visits - as did grandson / son King Charles II who became a devotee of horse racing. Although the original palace and lodge are gone, a small portion of Charles II's residence still exists in the two lower storeys of the nineteenth century house known as Palace House Mansion (the bulk was swept away in the Regency period).

    Newmarket is an easy 15 mile drive from Duxford and as you enter the town there is a statue on the roundabout outside the National Stud (a thoroughbred horse breeding farm) that gives an indication of what Newmarket is all about. The National Horse Racing Museum in the town centre is an interesting visit and well worth a look around. Back in town, we pass the Jockey Club Rooms - where there is a magnificent statue of the horse "Hyperion" in the courtyard - and see the beautiful clock tower at the top of Newmarket High Street that commemorates Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee in 1887. We also pass Nell Gwynn's cottage where there is an image of King Charles II on the wall; Nell was a "celebrity" actress of the Restoration Period and a long-time mistress of the king.

    Newmarket is all about horse racing though, and a few years ago I took my father, a racing fan, to Newmarket Races to celebrate his 80th birthday year. A couple of pictures of our "day at the races" are included for completeness (and in his memory).
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  • Kettle's Yard; The Liberty of Doubt

    14. kesäkuuta 2022, Englanti ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    This was our first visit to the contemporary art gallery next to Kettle's Yard house and we attended a new exhibition by Ai Weiwei (born 1957, Beijing, China), one of the world’s most renowned and significant artists; he was joint architect of the Bird's Nest stadium built for the 2008 Beijing Olympics. From 2009, however, he has been a Chinese Exile due to his activism; he spent some of this time living in Cambridge, but moved in 2020 to live in Portugal.

    His Liberty of Doubt exhibition sets out to explore both the freedom of the West has in contrast to China and other authoritative regimes, and the differing traditions in the art of the East and West (ie ancient and modern) in relation to authenticity. He has mixed his own artworks with historic Chinese objects; the antiquities on display were acquired by Ai Weiwei at an auction in Cambridge in 2020, and some have been identified some as original and others as counterfeit. 

    Highlights that we saw included the following:

    Chinese lacquered Greystone fragmentary hand, clutching a bottle; probably the hand of a Bodhisattva.

    Dropping a Han Dynasty Urn; in 1995, Ai Weiwei intentionally dropped a Han Dynasty urn while being photographed – simultaneously destroying and making - and drew attention to the Chinese government’s widespread destruction of the country’s heritage.  This exhibit was actually made from Lego bricks (in 2015).

    Han Dynasty Urn with Coca-Cola Logo, 2014; one of a series in which Ai has painted the Coca-Cola logo onto an ancient vessel - burnishing an historical Chinese artefact with a globally recognisable brand, he considers the place of China within contemporary consumer culture.

    Blue and White Porcelain Plates, 2017; Inspired by the ancient Greek story of The Odyssey, Ai reflects on the cyclical nature of history in the imagery of these plates, drawing a correlation between the journey undertaken by Odysseus and the ongoing global refugee crisis. The plates show six themes: War, Ruins, the Journey, Crossing the Sea, Refugee Camps, Demonstrations.

    Marble Surveillance Camera with Plinth, 2014; since 2008, Ai’s studio compound in Beijing has been surrounded by over two dozen surveillance cameras put in place by the authorities - following this intrusive act, Ai has frequently investigated the theme of surveillance in his work.

    The Chair for Non-attendance, 2013; originally made to commemorate a friend who was detained by the Chinese state, it was presented in 2013 at the Stockholm Film Festival, where Ai had been invited to be a juror, but was prevented from attending due to being barred from leaving China by state officials.

    Marble Takeout Box, 2015; the locally produced Styrofoam takeout box is the most ubiquitous takeaway container in China, yet the country is the nation that has produced the highest quality porcelain in the past.

    Marble Toilet Paper, 2020; the whole world was in a panic in March 2020 due to the Covid-19 pandemic and unnoticed and everyday objects suddenly became scarce in all the supermarkets and this work lays bare how fragile civilized progress actually is.

    Three of his documentary films were also featured; Coronation (2020) about the pandemic in Wuhan, Cockroach (2020) about the student protests in Hong Kong and and Human Flow (2017) about the global migration crisis - we did not see these.

    An interesting afternoon
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  • Kettle's Yard; The House

    14. kesäkuuta 2022, Englanti ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Kettle's Yard is part of the University of Cambridge Museums consortium and was originally the Cambridge home of Jim Ede and his wife Helen;  they moved to Cambridge in 1956 and converted four small cottages into one house as a place to display Ede's collection of early 20th-century art.  Ede was a curator at the Tate Gallery in London, and as such it is biased towards works from the British avant-garde of the first half of the 20th century.  In 1966, Ede gave the house and collection to the University of Cambridge, but continued living there before he and his wife moved to Edinburgh in 1973; the house is preserved as the Ede’s left it, making a very informal space to enjoy the permanent collection, and in 1970, the house was extended.

    Kettle's Yard is located in a quiet corner of Cambridge, overlooking St Peter’s Church, and is a beautiful house filled with beautiful objects placed to create a harmonic whole; a visit to the house has to be booked in advance.  Our small group starts by ringing the bell, as visitors had to do when Ede maintained an 'open house' each afternoon, giving any visitors, particularly students, a personal tour of his collection. Our guide shows us the downstairs area and explains how everything - including arrangements of pebbles, sculptures and paintings - has been left in its exact place. On the next floor we see a lounge area and internal balcony which leads to the gallery extension downstairs (there is a bedroom area up another flight of stairs) - this gallery, also used for small live musical performances, is delightful.  It was amazing to see how the four cottages had been joined together and the way it had all been laid out with great care and attention to detail.

    There is also an exhibition gallery on two levels next to the house, which has been built in a contrasting modernist style (see next post).
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  • Fitzwilliam; Hockney's Eye

    14. kesäkuuta 2022, Englanti ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    David Hockney (b.1937, Bradford) is one of the most influential artists of our time; the exhibition "Hockney's Eye: The Art and Technology of Depiction" is in both The Fitzwilliam Museum, where his art is integrated across several picture galleries against the background of his dialogue with the "Old Masters", and The Heong Gallery (part of Downing College). Hockney’s Eye explores the artist’s pioneering modern experiments in bringing hand, eye and optical instruments together inventively. 

    In his use of cameras, digital drawing, the iPad and digital film, Hockney is following a tradition of creative experiments with optical devices that goes back from Ingres’ camera lucida to Canaletto’s camera obscura and right back to the birth of Renaissance naturalism in the fifteenth century. 

     Fitzwilliam

    Our walk through the museum overs many aspects of his work via separate sections in several of the galleries:

    Gallery 3 (British Art, 16-18th century); "Doing portraits" - his self-portrait, those of others and ipad self-portraits;  pictures are visibly related to work of predecessors such as Hogarth

    Gallery 6 (Italian Art, 14-16th century); "Perspectives on perspective" - includes a very interesting video on the optical rules of linear perspective

    Gallery 7 (Italian Art, 18th century); "A lens on the Grand Canal"

    Gallery 8 (Spanish and Flemish Art); "Hockney and Brueghel"

    Gallery 10 (Octoganal exhibition space); "Seeing them watching us" - front of house staff at the National Gallery, London

    Gallery 17 (Flower Paintings, Inlaid Furniture and Clocks); "What a shadow shows us" and "How to make flowers last"

    Gallery 15 (Dutch Art, 17-18th century); "Perspective; orthodox and reverse" - how can a picture convey what we actually see?

    Gallery 14 (Exhibition space); "Artists and optical aids" - use of optical tools such as camera lucida, camera obscura, concave mirrors

    Gallery 12 (Exhibition space); "Time Travel" - digital videos synchronised and presented on nine monitors; also ipad pictures

     Heong Gallery

    This charts Hockney’s pioneering modern experiments from the 1960s to the present day in bringing hand, eye, and optical instruments together; this includes photo collages and pictures derived from the use of mirrors.

    All in all, a great morning out seeing some good art and having an interesting experience.
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  • Gdansk - The Shipyard and Museums

    24. toukokuuta 2022, Puola ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We walk up to the shipyard area; outside is the Monument to the Fallen Shipyards Workers of 1970 which commemorates the 42 or more people killed during the Coastal cities events in December 1970; in 1980, Lech Walesa emerged to rouse crowds of strikers here, leading to the formation of the Solidarity movement and ultimately to democracy for Poland and most of the Eastern bloc.  Still active, the shipyard area seems to be slated for redevelopment and general gentrification and we enjoy seeing the old cranes and perimeter buildings while they are still there.

    Behind this is the European Solidarity Centre, a museum and library devoted to the history of Solidarity, the Polish trade union and civil resistance movement, and other opposition movements of Communist Eastern Europe. 

    We walk to see the Polish Post Office; now a museum, the building is historically significant because it was one of the first sites targeted by the German Army when it invaded Poland on 1 Sept 1939 and WWII started; from the Polish perspective, a group of postmen held out against SS troops for almost a day and this feat is commemorated by a monument.

    It is a short walk from here to the Museum of the Second World War, built in the style of a leaning tower with glass facade.  We visit this museum and it is very interesting.

    Back at the Motlawa Riverfront, we cross over to the small island of Olowianka (Granary Island) in the river and pass the Polish Philharmonic Concert Hall and the National Maritime Museum.

    Then it is back to the hotel to head off to the airport for the flight back home.  A great trip to Poland is over.
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  • Gdansk - Old Town 2; continued

    23. toukokuuta 2022, Puola ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We turn left after the Green Gate along the Motlawa Riverfront - the heart of the old port, it is now a bustling restaurant area - and reach the iconic Gdansk Crane (best viewed from the other side of the river, which we did); this restored 15th century port crane is now part of the National Maritime Museum. 

    We walk up the picturesque ul. Mariacka, where rich merchants used to live, towards the Church of St Mary; this is the largest medieval brick-built church in Europe, taking 150 years to complete and has been rebuilt after being destroyed in WWII.  It is also famous for its astronomical clock built in 1464-1470 by Master Hans Duringer; our timing is fortunate as we see it do its stuff at 11:57am.  We also ascend the 407 steps to the top of the 78m tower for some great views.  Outside is the Royal Chapel, used as a place of worship for Catholics when St Mary's became Protestant.

    We see the Arsenal, the finest example of a Dutch Mannerist style building in Gdansk; this former weapons and munitions store is now filled with shops and an art gallery.  Our walk takes us past both the Old Town Hall (also Dutch Mannerist) and the Old Market building on our way to visit the Church of St Catherine. This is the oldest and most important church in the Old Town and houses an exhibit of Tower Clocks in the Gdansk Science Museum which is situated in part of the tower - this is 76m tall with even better views of the city and the shipyard area from the top than from the Main Town Hall.
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  • Gdansk - Old Town 1; The Royal Way

    23. toukokuuta 2022, Puola ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Gdansk is a city on the Baltic coast of northern Poland with a complex history, having had periods of Polish, Prussian and German rule, as well as periods of autonomy as a free city-state.

    An important shipbuilding port, from 1918 to 1939, Gdansk lay in the disputed Polish Corridor between Poland and Germany, the political tensions here culminated in the Invasion of Poland in 1939 and WWII.  The city was destroyed during WWII, but is now painstakingly rebuilt.

    We start our exploration by walking the Royal Way along ul. Dluga (Long Lane) and Dlugi Targ (Long Market).  Along Long Lane we pass the Highland Gate, marking the route's beginning, the Prison Tower (now housing the Amber Museum), the Golden Gate (ceremonial gateway to the city) and pass many beautiful, tall and narrow houses built in Flemish style before reaching the Main Town Hall.  We visit this; it is now the seat of the Gdansk Museum and has reconstructed interiors - the Red Room is of particular note and has a beautiful ceiling. 

    The road widens as we reach the Long Market and Artus Court - the historic meeting place of the town's elite - with the bronze statue of Neptune's Fountain in front of it and the Golden House, with a fine facade, beside it; the Royal Way ends at Green Gate, built as a residence of visiting Polish Kings.
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  • Warsaw - City Centre

    22. toukokuuta 2022, Puola ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Warsaw is not all "old" buildings; there are many high rise and modern buildings in the city centre.

    We start at the Palace of Culture and Science; this was built 1952-1955 and was a gift to the people of Warsaw from the nations of the USSR. An emblem of the city, it now comprises a concert hall, cinema, two museums, Congress Hall, offices,academic institutions and private companies! It is 237m tall, and built with inspiration from the Empire State Building in Nwe York. Behind it is Swietokyzyska Park and we cross this and look for the hidden away Nozyk Synagogue; this is the only active Synagogue in Warsaw and exceptionally beautiful.

    We walk on to the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in Pilsudski Square; close to it on ul. Krolewska are the Zacheta Building, housing the National Gallery of Contemporary Art, and the Evangelical Church of the Augsberg Confession, a neo-classical domed building. The lovely Saxon Gardens nearby are the oldest Public Park in Warsaw and are adjacent to the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.

    We see examples of how new building has encroached upon old building as we walk back to see old buildings, near our hotel, used during the Warsaw Uprising and also the last remaining fragment of the Old Ghetto Wall.

    Then it's off to Warsaw Centrale Station to catch our train to Gdansk.
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  • Warsaw - Royal Route to Lazienki Palace

    21. toukokuuta 2022, Puola ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We take the bus 106 again to Mariensztat and walk up to the Old Town again to start the "Warsaw - In Your Pocket" walking tour of The Royal Route.

    The full Royal Route links the city's three Royal residences; Royal Castle, Lazienki Park's Palace on the Island and the Wilanow Palace. We cover the first part, taking in the many historical buildings, parks and monuments on the way to Lazienki Park via Warsaw's two main high streets, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiejscie and ul. Nowy Swiat.

    Starting at the Royal Castle on Plac Zamkowy again, we walk down ul. KP past St Anne's Church, the Adam Mickiewicz Monument (he was a literary figure) to reach the fenced and guarded Presidential Palace. We visit the Church of the Nuns of the Visitation (Fryderyk Chopin attended as a youth) and pass some buildings of the University of Warsaw to reach the Holy Cross Church; this is the final resting place of Chopin's heart (in a sealed urn) and the interior is exceptional.

    After an intersection, the road becomes ul. Nowy Swiat, and definitely more trendy. We reach the modern art installation that is the famed Palm Tree, situated in the middle of a roundabout! At Plac Tlzech Krzyzy, a roundabout with St Alexander's Church on it, the Royal Route becomes ul Al. Ulazpowska and we walk down here, passing a statue of Ronald Reagan opposite the US Embassy, to reach the western perimeter of Lazienki Park.

    We pass Belvedere Palace, the residence of Polish Presidents 1918 -1995; this can only be viewed from the Royal Route and no visitors are allowed. We enter Lazienki Park and see the Art Nouveau Chopin Monument, the open-air Theatre on the Island and the magnificent semicircular Myslewicki Palace before reaching the Palace on the Island. The name derives from the fact that it was originally a private bath-house before being bought by the last king of Poland in 1772 and converted to a private residence.
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  • Warsaw - New Town

    20. toukokuuta 2022, Puola ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    The New Town (Nowe Miasto) is next to the Old Town and became a separate urban entity in 1408; it was also mostly destroyed during WWII andhas been rebuilt.

    We enter from the Old Town via the Barbican and pass the Church of the Holy Spirit and Church of St Jacek to enter the cobbled Ulice Freta, the main road in the New Town. We reach the triangular shaped New Town Square and the rebuilt Church of St Kazimierz, with its elegant green dome and beautiful interior. We also visit the nearby Church of the Visitation of the Virgin Mary.

    We then walk back down Ulice Freta and turn right along Ulice Dluga to see the Monument to the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, commemorating the heroes of this event.

    It has been a great afternoon, thanks to the "Warsaw - In Your Pocket" guide book.
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  • Warsaw - Old Town

    20. toukokuuta 2022, Puola ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We arrive in Warsaw Centrale Station before 1pm after a good train journey from Krakow. Luckily our room at Hotel Ibis is ready and we set off for the Old Town on bus 106 to Mariensztat with a street map and the "Warsaw - In Your Pocket" guide provided by the hotel to start our 2km walking tour of the Old Town (Stare Miasto). This was founded at the turn of the 13th and 14th centuries, but was almost completely destroyed during WWII and has been rebuilt.

    We start at Plac Zamkowy and see Zygmunt's Column, the oldest secular monument in Warsaw; this king moved the capital here from Krakow. Opposite is the Royal Castle, a symbol of Polish independence. We enter the Cathedral of St John and see the Jesuit Church next door, before visiting Ulice Piwna (Beer Street). We walk along the defensive city walls, Podwale, past the Jan Kilinski and Little Insurgent monuments to reach the Warsaw Barbican, guarding the North entrance to the Old Town.

    We walk back to the Old Town Market Square, with its beautiful and colourful town houses; there was originally the town hall in the centre, but following its demolition in 1817, a statue of the Warsaw Mermaid, the protector of the city, takes its place. There are museums here; we enjoy a view over the River Vistula from Gnojna Gora (what was the old dung mound for human and domestic waste!) before making a wish at the nearby Wishing Bell.
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  • Wieliczka Salt Mine

    19. toukokuuta 2022, Puola ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Wieliczka is approx 30 minutes outside Krakow and famous for its ancient salt mine, which opened 700 years ago and is still in operation (for maintenance only). Rock salt is a valuable mineral that fuelled Krakow's growth (and, from a tourist income perspective, still does so today!)

    The mine is unique in the world for its corridors, sculptures, chambers and galleries that have all been excavated and carved by hand. There is a 2 km tourist route on three levels through a network of underground galleries reaching a depth of 135m.

    An amazing experience.
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  • Krakow - Podgórze

    18. toukokuuta 2022, Puola ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    South of Kazimierz, but on the other side of the River Vistula, is the district of Podgórze.

    Located at 4 Lipowa Street in the post-industrial part of Podgórze called Zablocie, is Oscar Schindler's Enamel Factory.  When WWII started in 1939, Oscar Schindler (a German himself) initially employed Jews from the nearby Ghetto because they were expected to be paid less than Polish employees.  He soon came to care about their fate, however, and - using personal connections and bribes - managed to save approx 1,000 people from certain death in concentration camps and to survive WWII.  The administrative building of the former factory now houses a permanent exhibition called "Krakow - the time of occupation 1939 - 1945" featuring many personal accounts.  It was very interesting and informative.

    After the German invasion in 1939, part of Podgórze became the Ghetto for Krakow with 25,000 people crowded into it; this area had walls built around it with tops resembling Jewish grave headstones - we see a 12m long fragment of the wall.  

    Zgody Square is not far; this was the starting point for deportation to camps.  Now known as Ghetto Heroes Square, it features an art installation of dozens of large iron chairs; this was inspired by abandoned furniture after the liquidation of the Ghetto.  At the corner of the square is Pod Orlem Pharmacy; now a museum, the former Eagle Pharmacy was operated by a Pole, Tadeusz Pankiewicz, who was entitled to remain in the Ghetto - it was the only Pharmacy there.  As well as providing medicine, the pharmacy acted as a secret meeting place and Tadeusz and his staff acted as runners connecting Jews in the Ghetto with those outside.  It is of particular interest to us as Helen was a Pharmacist.

    At the west side of Podgórze we see the beautiful St Joseph's Church and cross the River Vistula back to Kazimierz via Father Bernatek's Bridge; also known as Love Bridge, it is noted for its acrobat statues above head height.
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  • Krakow - Kazimierz (Jewish Quarter)

    18. toukokuuta 2022, Puola ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    South of the Old Town, but still north of the River Vistula is the Jewish Quarter of Krakow, Kazimierz (this is where our hotel is located).

    We start in the beautiful Ulice Szeroka, where there are nice restaurants (see later), and visit the Remuh Synagogue and Cemetery.  This is one of the two still active synagogues in Krakow; the original Remuh was destroyed in WWII, but it has been rebuilt and tombstone fragments have been incorporated into a wall sound the cemetery; we walk through this and see many interesting tombstones.

    Futher along is the Old Synagogue, now a museum, and nearby are both the High Synagogue and Tempel Synagogue (also active, with the Jewish Community Centre next to it).

    We cross Plac Nowy - well known for its Zapienka (Polish pizza), other street food and neighbouring bars - and carry on to visit the huge 14th century Church of Corpus Christi, with its magnificent interior and dominating tower.  We walk west through Kazimierz to see Pauline, Church on the Rocks (Skalka), a monastery and church built on a rocky outcrop close to the River Vistula.

    We walk back to Plac Nowy and see what is known as Schindler's Alley (used as a location in the film "Schindler's List").  Back in Szeroka we have an excellent outside dinner at Ariel Restaurant and enjoy live music from a neighbouring restaurant as we eat, before popping inside to hear more live music at ours.
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  • Krakow - Stare Miasto (Old Town)

    17. toukokuuta 2022, Puola ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Our route from The Wawel to the Stare Miasto (Old Town) takes us past the Church of Saints Peter and Paul, with its Baroque facade, the Church of St Andrew next to it and on to the Franciscan Church; this has amazing interior decoration which is not immediately apparent to the naked eye. We walk alongside the Bishops Palace on to the Collegium Maius, the oldest building of the Jagiellonian University (itself one of the oldest universities in Europe); it has a beautiful arcaded courtyard.

    We turn right and reach the Main Market Square, one of the largest medieval squares in Europe. The Town Hall Tower is the only remaining element of the town hall buildings that used to be here; it is next to the magnificent Cloth Hall, which has been part of the city's trade since the 13th century (the rebuilt Hall now mostly sells jewellery and souvenirs). Outside the main entrance to the hall is the Adam Mickiewicz Monument, commemorating a 19th century poet. Close by is the Gothic St Mary's Basilica, an iconic site of Krakow, with a magnificent altar inside; it is also famous for the hourly trumpet call in all four directions (which we hear).

    We walk up Ulice Florianska towards St Florian's Gate; this is part of the Royal Route (which we have followed - with diversions - from Wawel Hill to the Main Market Square and on to the Florian Gate); the gate was once part of medieval fortifications. We divert again to the Slovacki Theatre and its grounds before doubling back to the Barbican; this is the oldest remaining element of Krakow's defences, and one of only three such outposts still existing in Europe.

    We cross over to Plac Matejki, which is dominated by the Grunwald Monument, constructed in 1910 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the Battle of Grunwald.
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  • Krakow - The Wawel

    17. toukokuuta 2022, Puola ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    A good flight to Krakow yesterday; about time too - this self-organised trip should have happened 2 years ago, but was postponed for some reason....

    The Royal Complex on Wawel Hill, overlooking the River Vistula, is considered a symbol of Polish Statehood and the first historic ruler of the country settled here in the 10th century.

    We enter the 4-winged Royal Castle (built 1505-36) by crossing the Italianate arcaded inner courtyard; some of the castle is closed to visitors, but we can visit the Royal Apartments - there are tapestries, ornate ceilings, stoves, furniture etc to see and admire. We also visit the small Royal Gardens at the rear of the castle.

    Wawel Cathedral (of Saints Stanislav and Waclaw) is the most important temple in Poland; many Kings, wives and national heroes are buried here. Several chapels have been built around the main nave, and it is extremely beautiful inside. The bell tower is part of the specified walking route and the 12-ton Sigismund Bell is of particular ineterst; there are good views from here as well. We also visit the Royal Tomb and Cathedral Museum as part of our Cathedral visit.

    We leave The Wawel and take the scenic Royal Route to Krakow's main market square and beyond...
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