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Andrew's Travels
Andrew's Travels

Andrew's Travels

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamVoyageur
    Van Long Wetlands Nature Reserve; boat trip
    Phat Diem CathedralLimestone karstInside a caveInside a caveLimehouse karstHoa Lu, the first capital of Vietnam; main entrance to the siteDinh Temple; entranceAltar wirh dragon bed in front of itLe Temple; entranceAltar wirh dragon bed in front of itBicycle ride in the local areaTam CocLimestone karst

    Ninh Binh; Van Long Wetlands and Hoa Lu

    23 novembre 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We drive to the Ninh Binh province and the Van Long Wetlands Nature Reserve (almost 2 hours); this is one of the few intact Lowland inland wetlands remaining in the Red River Delta. Here, limestone karst is surrounded by freshwater lakes, marshes, and swamps. We are taken out on row boats to see the area and are fortunate to see the rare Delacour Langur monkey. We enjoy fantastic views.

    It is then a short drive to Hoa Lu; this historic site was the first capital of Vietnam from 968 - 1009. Dinh Bo Linh founded the Dinh Dynasty; this lasted for 12 years and was followed by the Le Dynasty, which lasted for 25 years - the founder of the Ly Dynasty transferred the capital to Thang Long (now Hanoi). The site is mainly ruins now, but Temples remain for the Dinh and Le dynasties.

    After this, we have a home-prepared lunch and transfer to our hotel. Some of us go put for a cycle ride in the local area; a circular route from Dam Khe hamlet where the hotel is located to Tam Coc and back; this is most enjoyable.

    We enjoy a simple meal with beer later.    En savoir plus

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamVoyageur
    KOTO Van Mien Restaurant
    The startersThe Temple of Literature; entranceFirst courtyardSecond courtyardHue Van Cac, the Constellation of LiteratureThien Quang Tinh, the Well of Heavenly ClarityThien Quang Tinh, the Well of Heavenly ClarityTortoise Steles; these are inscribed with the details of scholars who have passed the trainingHouse of Ceremonies; a crane standing on a tortoiseThe Altar of ConfuciusThe Great Drum housed in traditional Sintic architectureBa Dinh Square; Ho Chi Minh MausoleumHo Chi Minh Mausoleum; the changing of the guardBa Dinh Square; National Assembly HallView backOne Pillar Pagoda; it stands in a lotus pond and has been rebuilt several timesThe altar

    Hanoi 1; Temple of Literature / Ba Dinh

    22 novembre 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    We fly to Hanoi from Phu Bai Airport, Hue. Hanoi is a city situated on the Red River and founded in 1010 as a Citadel by Emperor Ly Thai To. The area of guilds around this eventually developed in the Old Quarter. The French destroyed much of the Citadel in the 19th to found the French Quarter. After the Indochina and Vietnam Wars, Hanoi became the capital of Vietnam, and it is now a thriving city with a population of 10 million.

    KOTO is a social enterprise organisation founded by Jimmy Pham to provide an opportunity for at-risk and disadvantaged youth to break the poverty cycle, and we have a large lunch at the KOTO Van Mieu Restaurant; many graduate gone on to become top chefs. It was excellent.

    The Temple of Literature is close-by; this is the oldest and finest architectural complex in Hanoi and dates from 1070. It is modelled on the Temple of Confucius in Qufu, China.

    From there, we travel by minibus to Ba Dinh Square, where Ho Chi Minh read the proclamation of independence in 1975; the Square is public but managed for security now. Ba Dinh Square had a number of sites of interest, including the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, the National Assembly Hall, and the One Pillar Pagoda.

    We then go to our hotel to check in and have a break.    En savoir plus

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamVoyageur
    Thuy Xuan Incense Village; inside the shop we visit
    Making an Incense Stick (aka Joss Stick)Success!Outside the shopOutside the shopVegan lunch at a monasteryPart of the monasteryHue; walking alongside the Perfume River downtownAn old templeStatue and flamingos (also statues)View of the Cot Co in the Citadel, directly opposite on the other bank of the Perfume RiverModern buildingTypical build-up after waiting at the traffic lightsMarket opposite the hospitalStreet vendorsAfternoon Coffee; Salt coffee at the Cabin, before and after stirringDinner; Quang's grandparent's shrinePhotographs behind the shrineSome of the pre-prepared foodQuang's aunt preparing the home cooked dinner

    Hue; Incense Village, Walk, Home meal

    21 novembre 2024, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    After visiting the Royal Tomb of Tu Duc, it is a short drive to the Thuy Xuan Incense Village; this provided incense for the ancient dynasties in the Hue Imperial Palace, and is now a major tourist attraction. There are many shops selling "joss sticks" and showing how they are made, as well as many other items.

    After a delicious vegan lunch at a nearby monastery, our minibus takes us back to the hotel in Hue. We have some time to kill, so Helen and I go for a short walk along the Perfume River and then double back through part of the city to the hotel; the area is interesting as it is the hospital and medical part of Hue.

    During the Covid-19 lockdown, our tour guide, Quang, and his cousin set up a coffee shop close to where his family and relatives live in the western area of the Citadel. His cousin runs it now, and we visit for an afternoon coffee; we had salt coffee, a local speciality - excellent. Then we walked a few houses down to where Quang's aunt and uncle live; it was originally his grandparents's house, and there is a family shrine on entering (this is unusual nowadays in Vietnam, as times change). We had an amazing 5 course home-prepared, market-sourced meal prepared by Quang's aunt on limited cooking facilities, so all courses follow on quickly - we are very a very fortunate group.

    Then, it's back home by minibus in the rain - what a day!    En savoir plus

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamVoyageur
    Dragon Boats on the Perfume River
    Thien Mu PagodaOne of the guardians on the three entrances to the main shrine areaThe main shrine buildingThe laughing BuddhaBuddhist shrineThe car driven by the monk to his immolation site in Saigon (1963)Helen by a Bonsai tree in the gardenThe Royal Tomb of Tu Duc; Vu Khiem Gate (entrance to the site)Xung Khiem PavilionThe burial mound of the people who built the Tomb and who buried the EmporerStele HouseLife-size figures of people from that time; they were shorterThe Stele; this describes the life of the Emperor in 5 stagesOne of the columns outside the Stele House, soon to be renovatedLong Khiem TempleHuyen Cung, behind the Long Khiem TempleHuyen Cung, behind the Long Khiem TempleView down to the pond from Stele House

    Hue; Thien Mu Pagoda / Royal Tomb Tu Duc

    21 novembre 2024, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    This morning, we visited a couple of important sites in Hue. See photos for details about them.

    The first is Thien Mu Pagoda, which is situated on the NW bank of the Perfume River. This iconic Pagoda has an octagonal tower and seven floors - 7 is considered a lucky number in Buddhism - and is noted for its laughing Buddha and the car driven by monk Thich Quang Duc to Saigon where he immolated himself in protest against the Dien regime and its discrimination against monks; images were sent around the world, provoking strong reaction.

    The second site we visit is the Royal Tomb of Tu Duc; only 7 out of the 13 Vietnamese emperors who reigned between 1802 and 1945 have their own Mausoleum; we visit that of Tu Duc, who was fourth in the Dynasty. He had it built in his lifetime (it took 3 years) ready for when he "retired"; he died 10 years later and was buried here. Everybody who was involved in the building of the Tomb and with the burial were poisoned at feasts to keep its location secret; they were all from prisons, and their families paid in recompense. The Tomb site, a beautiful location surrounded by ponds and frangipani trees, is UNESCO owned now and is being restored, so some of it could not be visited.    En savoir plus

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamVoyageur
    Crossing into the Citadel
    Cot Co (Flag Tower), a distinctive Hue landmarkInside the Citadel; Nine Deities lCannon, made from bronze and symbolic onlyNgo Mon Gate, the south entrance to the Imperial Palace within the CitadelOutside the Imperial Palace; entry via the Hien Lam PavilionInside the Imperial Palace; Thai Hoa PalaceHien Lam Pavilion from inside the Imperial PalaceThe To Mieu TempleAltar inside the To Mieu TempleLooking back to the Hien Lam Pavilion, with the Nine Dynastic Urns, before itTree outside the To Mieu TempleInside the Forbidden Purple City; the 1968 Tet Offensive destroyed much of itWalkwayThe restored Kien Trung Palace (finished in 2023)Kien Trung Palace; the frontKien Trung Palace; close upView from inside the Kien Trung Palace down to the Cot CoView from inside the Kien Trung PalaceInside the Kien Trung PalaceThe last Emporer of Vietnam; Bao Dai, reigned from 1926 to 1945

    Hue; Citadel and the Imperial Palace

    20 novembre 2024, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    Hue is one of the most significant cultural and historic centres in Vietnam, as it was the former imperial city of the country. Built between 1805 and 1832, the vast Hue Citadel formed the capital of the Nguyen Dynasty until 1945. Within the Citadel lies the once magnificent Imperial City, and within this is the Forbidden Purple City, where only the queen, some concubines, and court eunuchs were allowed to enter.

    After the end of the monarchy in 1945, the Imperial City suffered heavy damage and neglect during the Indochina Wars through the 1980s. The Imperial City was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993 and is undergoing restoration.

    We walk through the site from one side to the other; see captions on photos for details. Later on, we enjoy more delicious Vietnamese food and Huda beer.    En savoir plus

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamVoyageur
    Da Nang; Dragon Bridge
    Da Nang; Dragon BridgeView en route to the Hai Van PassHai Van Pass; the summitHai Van Pass; an entranceHai Van Pass; military bunkerHai Van Pass; military bunkerHai Van Pass; view from a military bunkerLang Co LagoonLang Co LagoonLang Co LagoonHue; shared lunch

    En route to Hue via the Hai Van Pass

    20 novembre 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We set off early on our minibus to our next destination; Hue. We drive through Da Nang, Vietnam's third city, and a major hub due to its central location. We drive past and over the spectacular Dragon Bridge and the head north towards the Hai Van Pass over the Truong Son Range.

    There are good views from the summit of the pass, down to Da Nang in the south and up to Lang Co Lagoon in the north. There are many old bunkers at the top of the pass, both French and American (the TV series Top Gear featured it in an episode on Vietnam in 2008). The bunkers were used by American forces during the Vietnam War, as it is an important trade route. There is now a tunnel option to the high pass route for large vehicles, such as lorries and coaches.

    We stop off at the Lang Co Lagoon for coffee before continuing on to Hue, arriving in time for lunch at the Elegant Restaurant; Helen and I share two local Hue traditional meals - fried pancake with shrimp and pork, and Nem Lui, minced pork with a lemon grass skewer. Both are lovely, especially with a local Hude beer.    En savoir plus

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamVoyageur
    The Green Mango Restaurant...
    .. and it's husband day care centreChef in actionBanana blossom salad with chicken, duck spring rolls / Pho Bo with beef, and noodles1BBQ fish in banana leaf / Mango sticky riceThe Intrepid ChefsOld Town; Trieu Chau Assembly HallOld Town; typical buildingOld Town; marketOld Town; Japanese Covered Bridge by dayView of Old Town from the An Hoi Island on the other side of the riverView of Old Town from the An Hoi Island on the other side of the riverBanh Mi for lunchThe Lune CentreBamboo Circus show (image from official website)Bamboo Circus show (image from official website)Bamboo Circus show (image from official website)Bamboo Circus show (image from official website)After the showThe Hoianian Restaurant

    Hoi An; Cookery, Old Town, Bamboo Circus

    18–19 nov. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    Vietnamese food is well known for being healthy and nutritious and delicious; this evening, we went to the Green Mango restaurant in the Old Town to attend a Cookery Class. This provided the opportunity to see how it was done and then eat it! It was excellent, and so was the food (see captions on photos).

    The next day is a free day, so Helen and I visit the Old Town to explore it and do a little shopping (see captions on photos).

    After a break back at the hotel, the group went to The Lune Centre on An Hoi Island to see the Teh Dar Bamboo Circus show. This was absolutely incredible; amazing gymnastics and great music with singing. It tells the story about the circle of life and death for all living beings on Earth, told through the lens of Vietnamese Tribal Culture - "tel dar" means "travelling the circle". Photography during the show itself is strictly forbidden, so I have captured images from the official website (we saw all these things).

    After the show, we went for dinner at The Hoianian Restaurant on the Riverfront;this coincided with a full moon and high tide..

    An amazing 30 hours.    En savoir plus

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamVoyageur
    The cycle group at the start
    Cau Cam Kim BridgeCrossing the bridgeCam Nam Isalnd; FieldsHaystackBoats on the riverOne of the processes in rice wine makingSome of the resultsOur cycle tour guide, Hanna, and our rice wine host, Mr DauMat weaving houseMat weavingMat weavingThe result 🙂Cam Kim Island; View of temple en routeFemale BuddhaRice paper making and noodle houseMaking rice paperMaking rice noodlesThe cycle group prior to taking the boat back to Hoi AnBlog prepared by our cycle guide

    Hoi An; Cam Nam and Cam Kim Islands

    18 novembre 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Most of the group are going on an optional guided cycling tour of the local area to see how the local Hoi An people (Hoianese) live in rural areas.

    We cross Cau Cam Kim (Cam Kim Bridge) over the Thu Bon River to Cam Nam Island. Our first stop is near a farm, where we enjoy the views. Next, we cycle on to the traditional rice wine making house of Mr Dau; here, we learn about the process and have the opportunity to sample guava, banana, and mulberry rice wines.

    A short walk to a house nearby, where mats are weaved by a lady and her son; incredible to see, and we all had a quick go - apparently, a small mat sells for the equivalent of 8 USD in the local market.

    We cycle on, crossing another bridge to Cam Kim Island. There are some interesting views as we make our final local culture visit to a local rice paper and noodle making workshop; we learn about the process and have a go a making rice paper before having lunch - freshly made noodles.

    We then cycle to get a local prearranged boat back to Hoi An; our guide Hanna prepared a vlog summary of the morning out (see photos). It's been a fantastic morning and early afternoon with some exercise thrown in (19 km of cycling).    En savoir plus

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamVoyageur
    Characteristic dark-yellow house in Hoi An's Old Quarter / Market area
    Phuc Kien Assembly HallHouse covered with lanternsBi Bo Caphe Restaurant / FoodTan Ky Old HouseBoats on the Thu Bon River frontSong Hoai Square BridgeSong Hoai Square BridgeI Love Hoi AnJapanese Covered BridgeInside the Japanese Covered BridgeMonument to KazimierzA wet group of people

    Hoi An; Old Quarter (aka Ancient Town)

    17 novembre 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We set off for Saigon Domestic Airport for our flight to Da Nang; unfortunately, the flight ends up being delayed for a total of 3 hours due to operational issues. Once in Da Nang, we transfer by minibus to our hotel in Hoi An. Hoi An is located on the Thu Bon River and was an important trading port in the 16th to 18th centuries with traders from China, Japan, and Europe; it has a rich cultural heritage and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as it reflects a blend of both indigenous and foreign influence.

    We visit the small Old Quarter with its cobbled, lantern strewn streets (see captions on photos for details). The Phuc Kien Assembly Hall was built by Chinese merchants who fled China after the fall of the Ming Dynasty. After an excellent home-style group dinner at the Bi Bo Caphe Restaurant, we walk around the river frontage and see the famous Japanese Covered Bridge.

    It poured down after a relaxing beer!    En savoir plus

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamVoyageur
    Fish farm on the Mekong Delta
    Garden at the coffee stop en route to Ho Chi Minh CityHo Chi Minh City; view of the Saigon River from the minibusCentral Post Office; originally built as a train station but never used as suchCentral Post OfficeCentral Post Office; insideCentral Post Office; insideCentral Post Office; old map of the Mekong Delta regionCentral Post Office; old map of the original Saigon CityThe Fall of Saigon in April 1975; the building where the last evacuees left by helicopterThe same building as it is s todayNotre Dame Cathedral; mid renovationEn route to the Home Saigon RestaurantHome Saigon Restaurant; fish curry / restaurant decor3Home Saigon Restaurant; Vietnamese craft beersBui Vien Walking StreetBui Vien Walking StreetBui Vien Walking StreetBui Vien Walking Street; view with the Britexco Financial Tower in the distance

    Ho Chi Minh City; Central iii

    16 novembre 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    After a leisurely start, we leave Ba Danh homestay by tuk tuk to get to our minibus for the journey back to Ho Chi Minh City.

    Once there, we visit the Central Post Office area and gain more insight into local history from our guide. The Central Post Office was originally built as a railway station (hence its size!) bt the French but it was never used as such due to its proximity to the newly built Notre Dame Cathedral and concerns about disturbing the services! There are two interesting maps on the wall inside, one showing the Mekong Delta, the other the extent of the original Saigon; Saigon is still used by local people to describe the District 1 (Central) area of Ho Chi Minh City.

    Very close to the Central Post Office is the building where the last evacuees left Saigon by helicopter during the Fall of Saigon (30 April 1975); the same building looks very different today! The city's name was changed from Saigon to Ho Chi Minh City to celebrate the memory of Ho Chi Minh, who died in 1969.

    Back at the hotel, we enjoy a swim and relax after a busy couple of days.

    We then walk to the Home Saigon Restaurant for an excellent meal and beer before our group leader takes us to the Bui Vien Walking Street; this is a loud, bustling area filled with bars, eateries, clubs, girlie bars, live music and dance - late at night, it becomes a bit of a "red-light" area.

    It's been a day of contrast!    En savoir plus

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamVoyageur
    Paddy fields en route to the Mekong Delta
    Mekong rest stopLeaving My ThoArrival on Dragon IslandMonkey BridgeOur tour guide, Quang / BeesLeaving Dragon IslandBen Tre, Coconut IslandThe famous Ben Tre coconut candyPreparation areaSnake LiquorBoat transfer along the canalViewsOur boatLunch; Elephant Ear Fish2The Intrepid tour groupArrival at Ba Danh homestay by tuk tukBa Danh homestay; side view / aerial viewViews around the homestayHomestay meal

    Mekong Delta; Ben Tre (Coconut Island)

    15 novembre 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    The minibus leaves Ho Chi Minh City, and we drive to My Tho, stopping at the My Tho Rest Stop for a coconut milk coffee; there are interesting walkways to the various coffee houses here. Onwards to My Tho, where we take a boat to Dragon Island, one of four sacred islets in the main Mekong River; it is a short walk across it via one of the famous "monkey bridges" before stopping for honey flavoured tea. The Mekong Delta area in southern Vietnam is a vast maze of rivers, swamps, and islands.

    Our boat then takes on to Coconut Island (Ben Tre) in the delta, which is famous for its coconut candy; coconut milk and flesh are boiled down to a sticky mess, allowed to harden, cut into small pipes and wrapped in edible rice paper - fascinating to watch and delicious to eat. We then transfer by tuk tuk to take another type of boat, this one resembling a punt, to go up the delta a little to a restaurant. We enjoy Elephant Ear fish as part of a large spread of food!

    We then transfer by our minibus to and beyond Ben Tre town, where we transfer by tuk tuk to Ba Danh Homestay in the Mekong Delta; it's an interesting place to stay (see photos). In the evening, we have another large meal.

    It's been a full-on day with lots of modes of transport and lots of food; things could be worse!    En savoir plus

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamVoyageur
    Pho, a classic Vietnamese dish, served at the Avanti Boutique Hotel Restaurant
    Typical traffic in Ho Chi Minh CityWar Remnants MuseumOutside the War Remnants MuseumOutside the War Remnants MuseumOutside the War Remnants MuseumIndependence PalaceBen Nghe Street Food MarketBanh Xeo, a traditional Vietnamese pancakeView from the top of our hotel

    Ho Chi Minh City; Central ii

    14 novembre 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    We drive back to central Ho Chi Minh City in the minibus for lunch at the Avanti Boutique Hotel for the traditional Vietnamese dish of Pho in the restaurant there (Bill Clinton dined here in 2004).

    After that, we continue the war theme and visit the War Remnants Museum; this documents the war atrocities against the Vietnamese made by the US, Chinese, and French soldiers in detail (from a Vietnamese perspective), and relates to the First Indochina War and the Vietnam War - displays are in themed rooms. The photographs and exhibits there are too disturbing for me to photograph for personal use (particularly those relating to the Agent Orange defoliant). Outside the museum are displays of artillery and armour, and an aircraft collection.

    After that, we pass the Independence Palace on our way back to the hotel. Later, we walk to the Ben Nghe Street Market for dinner; there are various themed stalls, and delicious food is enjoyed (see captions on photos).

    Another great day!    En savoir plus

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamVoyageur
    Secret tunnel entrance
    Tunnel entrance showing the original tunnel sizeMannequins of Viet Cong soldiersAmerican M40 tank1Viet Cong booby trapViet Cong booby trapBamboo treesUnderground tunnelChamber (actual size and height, but represented on the surface)Weapons on display

    Ho Chi Minh City; Cu Chi Tunnels

    14 novembre 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    The Cu Chi Tunnels are a historical monument located in the Cu Chi district of Ho Chi Minh City; although 60 km from the centre, they are still part of the city.

    Underground tunnel systems have been used by the Vietnamese for centuries and are on three levels, with connections between various chambers. The Cu Chi system comprises a large network of connecting tunnels and was the location of several military campaigns during the Vietnam War, including being the Viet Cong Base in the 1968 Tet Offensive. There are two tunnel display sites, the Ben Duoc site and the Ben Dinh site - we visit the Ben Dinh site.

    We see a secret tunnel entrance and pass an American M40 tank, which was taken out by a mine, as well as examples of Viet Cong booby traps. We then went into one of the tunnels (widened slightly for tourist access to enable very stooped walking).

    It is an excellent visit that provides an insight into local history and a better understanding of the resourcefulness of the Viet Cong and of the war itself (see captions on photos for more details).    En savoir plus

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  • Andrew's TravelsVietnamVoyageur
    Ben Thanh Market; main entrance
    Ben Thanh MarketBen Thanh MarketBen Thanh MarketBen Thanh MarketSaigon Centre entrance, done up for ChristmasInside the Saigon CentreHo Chi Minh City Hall (aka The People's Committee Building) viewed from Nguyen Hue BoulevardBritexco Financial Tower along Nguyen Hue BoulevardSaigon River; looking backSaigon River; the other sideSaigon River viewStatue of Tran Hung DaoMunicipal TheatreStreet LifeTypical Street View

    Ho Chi Minh City; Central i

    13 novembre 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Helen and I arrived in Ho Chi Minh City after flying overnight via Doha on Qatar Airways for our Intrepid Travel Classic Vietnam trip. The transfer to the hotel is good, but it is striking how many motorbikes are on the roads. We are too early to check in, getting there before 9 am.

    Originally part of Cambodia, the city became part of Vietnam in the 18th century and was renamed Saigon; it fell into French hands in the late 19th century, becoming the capital of French Indochina. The war between the US and communist North Vietnam (Vietnam War) ended in 1975, and North Vietnam took over Saigon and renamed it Ho Chi Minh City; it now has a population of over 10 million people (out of the total 100 million) and is a hub of manufacturing and entertainment in Vietnam.

    We set off to explore the area around the hotel using a local map highlighted by reception. Our first port of call is Ben Thanh Market, a huge covered market built by the French in 1924; the rain was incredibly heavy for over an hour whilst we were inside, looping round and round to keep dry! Then it was the rather more upmarket Saigon Centre Shopping Mall before walking down the Nguyen Hue Boulevard, a famous pedestrian street; we had great views of the People's Committee Building and of other stunning modern architecture. We reach the Saigon River, where there are more great views and a visual reminder of when we were in Shanghai 6 years ago. We cross the roundabout where the Tran Hung Dao Statue is situated before weaving our way up past the Mosque, Municipal Theatre. Then it's lunch at the Ben Nghe Street Food Market before heading back to the hotel for a rest.

    Later on, we met with our tour leader and the other 9 people on the tour for a group meeting followed by an excellent "homestay" style group meal at the Pandan Restaurant.    En savoir plus

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  • Andrew's TravelsCentral/Southern Lake DistrictVoyageur
    View near start of walk, from Easedale Road
    Easedale BeckEasedale BeckEasedale BeckSourmilk Gill WaterfallView down the valley near the waterfallNearing the top of the ascent1Easedale TarnEasedale TarnEasedale TarnDownhill all the way!Brimmer Head FarmStepping stones over Easedale Beck, near Goodly BridgeStepping stones over Easedale Beck, near Goodly BridgeView of Helm Crag

    Grasmere to Easedale Tarn

    4 octobre 2024, Angleterre ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    This is a popular walk from one of our Walks books that is also on the OS app.

    After taking the bus to Grasmere (see earlier post), our route takes us via some woods along the River Rothay to Easedale Road, which we follow past Goody Bridge to take the track along Easedale Beck. We carry straight on towards the Sourmilk Gill Waterfalls and have a steep ascent here towards Brimhowe Crag; gill or ghyll is the local term for a small, open stream, usually with steep sides. There are good views back down into the valley, and we soon reach Easedale Tarn.

    We descend via the other side of Sourmilk Gill, some of it via big stones for the footpath, as it is damp underfoot. We eventually reach Easedale Beck and follow this, passing large farm buildings to reach a footbridge over the Beck (New Bridge) to rejoin the path back to Easedale Road. At Goody Bridge, we turn off and recross Easedale Beck via a beautiful stepping stone crossing; the Beck is a lot wider here, as it soon runs into the River Rothay. We walk past Allan Bank House, a two storey villa occupied by William Wordsworth 1808-11, as we reach Grasmere.    En savoir plus

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  • Andrew's TravelsCentral/Southern Lake DistrictVoyageur
    View towards Fletcher's Wood
    Near Dale EndLittle Langdale TarnSlater's BridgeLoughrigg FellGreat HowThe DubsView over Hodge Close Quarry (disused)Loughrigg Fell en route to Oxen FellIn the Tongue Intake PlantationSkelwith ForceAlong the Cumbria Way back to ElterwaterBelted Galloway Cows on Elterwater

    Elterwater and Skelwith Force

    3 octobre 2024, Angleterre ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Today, we follow a route from Elterwater found on the OS app. We take the 9:25 bus from Ambleside to Elterwater, not far away in the Valley of Great Langdale.

    Our route takes us past the Eltermere Hotel towards Dale End and on past Little Langdale Tarn and over Slater's Bridge; this is a traditional packhorse bridge made from slate that was a favourite of Alfred Wainwright. We turn towards Slang End and then head south over the muddy Little Fell, past Great How and over The Dub. We pass Hodge Close Farm and the large abandoned quarry near to it before doubling back and over towards the High and Low Oxen Fells; there are great views of Loughrigg Fell en-route. We walk through the Tongue Intake Plantation and then pass Park Farm to Skelwith Force; this is a well-known waterfall on the River Brathay. We then double back to Elterwater following the Cumbria Way along the banks of the River Brathay. Unfortunately, much of Elter Water itself is obscured by trees.

    It's been a varied 10-mile walk with great views and recommended.    En savoir plus

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  • Andrew's TravelsCentral/Southern Lake DistrictVoyageur
    Ambleside Waterhead
    View of Wray CastleEn route along Claife HeightsMoored boats on Lake WindermereAnglers looking towards Belle IslandView from Caitlap PointView back from Caitlap PointEntrance to Claife Viewing StationClaife Viewing StationOn Claife Viewing StationView from Claife Viewing StationView from Claife Viewing StationClaife Viewing StationClaife Viewing Station from the boat to BownessBowness-on-WindermereHen Holme and Lady HolmeView en route to BrockholeView of WansfellAnother view of WansfellView close to Ambleside Waterhead

    Lake Windermere; boat / west shore walk

    2 octobre 2024, Angleterre ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Today, we get Walker's tickets for a circular boat/walking route of the northern half of Lake Windermere.

    We walk down to the Ambleside Pier at Waterhead and take the boat to Low Wray Bay; from here, we walk around Watbarrow Point, past Wray Castle (see earlier post) and down the western shore of Lake Windermere, with Claife Heights Country Park on our right. We pass various small quays and bays, eventually reaching Caitlap Point and Claife Viewing Station; this is a viewing platform built in 1790 for the first tourists to the Lake District - there are beautiful panoramic views, including some which can be framed by coloured glass to recreate different seasons.

    From here, it is a short walk to Ash Landing, where we catch a boat to Bowness-on-Windermere and then another to go back to Ambleside Waterhead.

    It's been a super day out, with excellent views all the way.    En savoir plus

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  • Andrew's TravelsCentral/Southern Lake DistrictVoyageur
    View towards the Fairfield Horseshoe
    View of AmblesideEn routeView of Lake WindermereLily TarnLoughrigg TarnView of Elter WaterAt the top of Loughrigg FellView down to Lake WindermereView down to Lake GrasmereLake GrasmereRydal Water from Loughrigg Terrace

    Loughrigg Fell

    1 octobre 2024, Angleterre ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    We meet up with Laura, an old friend of Helen's, and set off on a "proper" Lake District walk around Loughrigg Fell from Ambleside.

    We leave the town via St Mary's Church and Rothay Park and cross the river Rothay at Miller Bridge; we then walk up and across to Lily Tarn, enjoying good views en route. We cross Loughrigg Fell, having enjoying views down to Loughrigg Tarn and Elter Water, before a steep ascent to the top of Loughrigg Fell (335 m / 1,099 ft above sea level). It is starting to get very windy here, and we can see both Lake Windermere and Lake Grasmere. It is a steep descent to reach Loughrigg Terrace, where we turn east and walk along the southern edge of Rydal Water. We then cross the A591 to Rydal Mount and walk back to Scandale Bridge via Rydal Hall (see earlier post); it's the bus back to Ambleside.

    It's been a 7.3-mile hike involving 1,562 ft of ascent, and it's great to see Laura again.    En savoir plus

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  • Andrew's TravelsCentral/Southern Lake DistrictVoyageur
    Hill Top; pathway to the house
    Hill TopHill Top; insideHill Top; insideHill Top; view of the gardenWray CastleWray CastleWray Castle; view from the entranceWray Castle; insideWray Castle; walking along the edge of Lake WindermereWray Castle; walking along the edge of Lake WindermereWray Castle; a boat shed on the lakesideWray Castle; St Margaret's ChurchWray Castle

    Hill Top and Wray Castle

    30 septembre 2024, Angleterre ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    It's a wet day today (not uncommon in the Lake District), so no big walks! We visit two sites with association to Beatrix Potter, a famous English writer and illustrator best known for her children's books (eg, The Tales of Peter Rabbit).

    The first is Hill Top in a village called Near Sawrey; this is a 17th century house, which Beatrix Potter moved into in 1896, aged 30. It is now managed by the National Trust and open as a writer's house museum as she would have known it - an interesting visit.

    Afterwards, we headed to Wray Castle, near Lower Wray, on the edge of Lake Windermere; Beatrix Potter stayed here on a family holiday to the Lake District when she was a teenager. Wray Castle began to be built in 1840 in the neo-Gothic style by James Dawson as a Lakeland Villa but intended to look older. It was acquired by the National Trust in 1929. Only the ground floor is open at present, and we visit The exhibition there; "Everests - One Mountain, Many Worlds," which tells the story of the almost forgotten Sherpas. We then follow the map guided walks around the grounds, seeing the lakeside and St Margaret's Church.

    Another interesting visit and a good day out.    En savoir plus

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  • Andrew's TravelsCentral/Southern Lake DistrictVoyageur
    View after joining the footpath at Scandale Bridge
    View of Rydal WaterRydal Hall; Grot and waterfallRydal Hall; waterfallRydal HallRydal Hall; two angelsRydal Hall; giant spiderRydal; St Mary's ChurchRydal Mount; William Wordsworth family homeRydal WaterGrasmere; Dove Cottage - William Wordsworth lived hereGrasmere; St Oswald's ChurchGrasmere; inside St Oswald's ChurchGrasmere; St Oswald's Church - William Wordsworth gravestoneGrasmere; St Oswald's Church - in the Wordsworth Daffodil GardenGrasmere: Bridge over the River RothayGrasmere; the famous gingerbread shop next to the churchGrasmere; view of the surrounding countryside

    Ambleside to Grasmere Walk via Rydal

    29 septembre 2024, Angleterre ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    We set off on a very popular linear walk from Ambleside to Grasmere, planning to return by bus.

    There are great views en route to the Rydal Hall Estate; Rydal Hall is a large detached house on the outskirts of the village of Rydal and Grade II listed. We then visit the small village of Rydal, known for its association with William Wordsworth, an English Romantic poet who lived here with his family.

    More great views as we carry on to Grasmere and pass Dove Cottage, where Wordsworth lived with his sister (both the cottage and the Wordsworth Museum near to it were unfortunately closed today). Wordsworth is buried in St. Oswald's Church in Grasmere, which we visit. Next to the church is Grasmere's famous Gingerbread Shop (it's delicious).

    The plan worked, and we caught the bus back to Ambleside after what was a 5.6-mile walk and an interesting visit to Grasmere.    En savoir plus

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  • Andrew's TravelsCentral/Southern Lake DistrictVoyageur
    Bridge House (Stock Ghyll passes underneath it)
    Market HallMarket PlaceMarket CrossSt Mary's Church; it is noted for its stone spireLocal walk 1; on the riverside footpathLocal walk 1; at the junction of the River Rothay and the River BrathayLocal walk 1; at the junction of the River Rothay and the River BrathayAmbleside Roman FortAmbleside Roman FortLocal walk 2; Stock GhyllLocal walk 2; Stock Ghyll Force (waterfall)Local walk 2; en route back from Stock GhyllAmblefest; Meetwood FlacAmblefest; The Tap Tavern beer festival

    Ambleside; town and local walks

    29 septembre 2024, Angleterre ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    We're spending a week in Ambleside in the Lake District, an area we've both visited many times in the past; it is a mountainous region and national park in Cumbria, North West England and famous for its landscape and literary associations.

    Ambleside is a market town that sits at the head of Windermere, England's largest natural lake. We have a brief walk in the town and then set off on the riverside walk to the Ambleside Roman Fort; this was built in the 1st or 2nd century under Hadrian's rule to guard the Roman Road from Brougham to Ravenglass, and to act as a supply base. We then set off on the short 2.5-mile circular local walk along Stock Ghyll, a tributary of the River Rothay, that runs through it (see captions on photos).

    Later in the afternoon, we catch the last part of Amblefest, an annual beer and music festival held here at the end of September; Meetwood Flac is a tribute / covers band for Fleetwood Mac and were amazing!

    A good first day!    En savoir plus

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  • Andrew's TravelsRHS GardensVoyageur
    The entrance to RHS Bridgewater
    The Welcome BuildingChinese Streamside Garden; the Music PavilionChinese Streamside GardenChinese Streamside Garden; the Water GardenEllesmere LakeThe Bridgewater EntWoodland play areaBothy House and the chimney and boiler house used to heat the original glass housesThe chimney and boiler houseThe gothic style Garden Cottage; it was the residence of head gardeners and their familiesWeston Walled Garden; Paradise GardenWeston Walled Garden; Paradise GardenWeston Walled Garden; Paradise Garden

    RHS Bridgewater, Worsley, Salford

    28 septembre 2024, Angleterre ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Helen and I are on our way to the Lake District for a week and stop off en route to visit RHS Bridgewater, in Salford, Greater Manchester.

    RHS Bridgewater is the RHS's most recent site and only opened in May 2021; it is a modern revival of the historic Worsley Hall New Estate. This former grand estate covered 154 acres and was visited by Queen Victoria. It had many fine gardens but was requisitioned during WWII and used as training grounds. It fell onto disrepair and was eventually demolished, although the Bothy House, chimney, and Garden Cottage survived. The RHS stated their work in 2017, and RHS Bridgewater is still developing and has many projects coming through.

    After entering, we walk towards the Chinese Streamside Garden (being developed in collaboration with the local Chinese community) to its Music Pavilion (the first of four pavilions, apparently). We then walked around Ellesmere Lake and through Upper Middle Wood to the Weston Walled Garden area;  this is one of the largest Victorian walled gardens in the UK and in its original incarnation contained a series of kitchen gardens built to service Worsley New Hall. It is divided into two halves, the Paradise Garden (comprising lily pond, Asian and Mediterranean planting) and the Kitchen Garden (inspired by the local history). We then walk through the Community Grow and the Community Wellbeing Gardens.

    It has been a good visit, but RHS Bridgewater is a work in progress and needs to be revisited again by us in the future.    En savoir plus

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  • Andrew's TravelsLondon - across by canal pathsVoyageur
    Johnson's Lock
    Mile End Sewer Vent ChimneySalmon Lane Lock and BridgeLimehouse BasinLimehouse BasinLimehouse BasinLimehouse BasinLimehouse Basin; Marina OfficeThe River ThamesThe River Thames

    Regent's Canal 3; to Limehouse Basin

    24 septembre 2024, Angleterre ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    From Mile End Lock, it is a short walk to Johnson's Lock and then a little further to pass the Mile End Sewer Vent Chimney (used to ventilate the sewer systems underneath).  I then reach the Limehouse Basin, a body of water that provided a navigable link between the River Thames and the Regent's Canal; it was first dug in 1820 to act as the eastern terminus for the Regent's Canal - throughout its "working life" Limehouse Basin was better known as the Regent's Canal Dock, and used to trans-ship goods between the old Port of London and the English canal system.

    Limehouse Basin now provides waterside living and a marina located in the Canary Wharf area of London and is a gateway to over 2,000 miles of navigable canals and rivers; it is connected to the Regent's Canal, the River Lee (via the Limehouse Cut), and the River Thames (via a tidal lock).

    I walk around Limehouse Basin and then down to see "Old Father Thames." A short walk today, but very interesting; this area is a great place to visit.    En savoir plus

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  • Andrew's TravelsThe River CamVoyageur
    St John's College; Bridge of Sighs
    St John's College; Kitchen BridgeTrinity BridgeKing's College BridgeQueen's College; Mathematical BridgeHodson's Folly, Coe FenGrantchester MeadowsByron's Pool

    Cambridge to Hauxton Junction

    19 septembre 2024, Angleterre ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    From Magdalene Bridge, several colleges of the University of Cambridge back on to the River Cam with their grounds covering both banks of the river; some colleges have buildings on both banks, others not, and several have bridges linking the College with the area known as The Backs.  This is a very beautiful area and most tourists visit The Backs and take in the views of the bridges, the most notable of which are The Bridge of Sighs (St John's College) and The Mathematical Bridge (Queen's College).

    From here, the River Cam runs through Coe Fen and under the Fen Causeway to Sheep's Green towards Newnham and Grantchester.  There is an interesting folly on Coe Fen at the junction with Vicar's Brook (which leads to Hobson's Conduit - see post in Cambridge City); Hodson's Folly is a summerhouse built in 1887 by John Hodson, butler at Pembroke College, in order to keep an eye on his daughter as she swam in the river (making it Town, not Gown!).  From here, I double back towards Newnham and cross the river to walk through Paradise Nature Reserve, re-joining at Skaters' Meadow to continue via Grantchester Meadows towards Granchester

    Onwards and further upstream I divert to Byron's Pool, now part of a small nature reserve; it is named after Lord Byron, who is said (by Brooke, at least) to have swum there.  The River Cam now passes through the Trumpington Nature Reserve and under the M11 to Hauxton Junction; this is the confluence of the two branches of the River Cam - the eastern branch, the Granta, and the western arm, the Rhee.    En savoir plus

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  • Andrew's TravelsNorfolkVoyageur
    White Fallow Deer
    St Martin's ChurchWater TowerModel Soldier MuseumModel Soldier MuseumSculpture Park; Jeppe Hein "Waterflame"Sculpture Park; Richard Long "Houghton Cross"Sculpture Park; Ryan Gander "More really shiny things that don't mean a thing"Sculpture Park; Tony Cragg "Tommy"Exhibition; Dame Magdalene Odundo, "Metamorphosis and Transformation"Exhibition; Anthony Gormley "Time Horizon" -this "datum" work sets the height for all the sculpturesExhibition; Anthony Gormley "Time Horizon"Exhibition; Anthony Gormley "Time Horizon"Exhibition; Anthony Gormley "Time Horizon"Exhibition; Anthony Gormley "Time Horizon"Exhibition; Anthony Gormley "Time Horizon"Exhibition; Anthony Gormley "Time Horizon"Exhibition; Anthony Gormley "Time Horizon"1Exhibition; Anthony Gormley "Time Horizon"Exhibition; Anthony Gormley "Time Horizon"

    Houghton Hall 2; Grounds and Exhibitions

    18 septembre 2024, Angleterre ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    After visiting the Hall, we explore the parkland around it; this is known for its iconic white fallow deer and the grounds which feature the local church and a water tower with the appearance of an architectural folly - it was constructed by Sir Robert Walpole and restored in 1982 (it is now a Grade I listed building).  Closer to the Hall, the Stables contain the world's largest private collection of model soldiers in the Model Soldier Museum located in one of the stable buildings.

    There is a large Sculpture Park in the grounds around the Hall, which contains an impressive permanent collection of contemporary sculptures.  The Hall often has exhibitions, and 2024 has major solo exhibitions by:

    1)  Dame Magdalene Odundo; her main feature is a glass installation called "Metamorphosis and Transformation," a tribute to ancient Egyptian artefacts and narratives of migration, and

    2) Antony Gormley; this features 100 life-size sculptures distributed across the 300 acres of the park.  They are cast-iron sculptures, each weighing 620kg and standing at an average of 191cm, and installed at the same datum level to create a single horizontal plane across the landscape.  Thus, some works are buried, allowing only a part of the head to be visible, while others are buried to the chest or knees according to the topography; only occasionally do they stand on the existing surface and some of the works are placed on concrete columns that vary from a few centimetres high to rising four meters off the ground.

    We see as many things as we reasonably can; it has been a truly excellent day out!    En savoir plus

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