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Historic Baltic Republics
  • Andrew's Travels
June 2024

Historic Baltic Republics

A two week tour of Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania with Explore Travel. Unfortunately, Helen was unable to come at the last minute, so this trip was done by me alone 😔. Read more
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  • Trip start
    June 1, 2024
    Andrew's TravelsTravelerHistoric Baltic Republics
    Along Snell Pond in Dome Park
    Balti Jaam MarketStreet Art on old buildings in TelliskiviStreet Art on old buildings in Telliskivi2Old chimney stackOld water towerStreet Art on old buildings in TelliskiviRepurposed generator

    ESTONIA Tallinn 1; Telliskivi

    June 1, 2024 in Estonia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    I flew to Tallinn, the capital of Estonia, via Helsinki, arriving early in the afternoon.

    Tallinn is UNESCO listed and one of Europe's most complete walled cities. It was originally settled by Finno Ugric people in 2,500 BC; Estonia is apparently still similar to Finland to this day, people and character wise. Tallinn was invaded by the Danes in 1219, who built a castle on Toompea, a small hill here.

    Tallinn joined the Hanseatic League in 1285 for trade and eventually became part of the Russian Empire in 1870, after it was surrendered to Peter the Great in 1710. By WWII, Tallinn had many shipyards and was capital of the brief Estonian Republic from 1920-1940; it suffered badly in WWII and became a main grain handling port for Moscow with much subsequent urban development. It has been transformed since 1991, after the fall of the Berlin Wall, and is now part of the EU.

    After settling into the hotel (L'Ermitage), I walked close to the western edge of the Danish Castle walls, along Snell Pond in Dome Park; the pond was once part of the preserved moat around the castle. There were tantalising views of the Old Town as I walked to the Kalamaja District of West Tallinn.

    I walked through the interesting Balti Jaam Market, a renovated hall with stalls on 3 levels and into Telliskivi. This is an area of the former industrial complex of Tallinn, including the electrochemical plant, but the old buildings now comprise of many shops, bars, and restaurants, with modern street art decorations on many walls; Telliskivi is known now as the Creative City and is the area to go for reasonably priced food and drink - which the Explore Group did, later on!    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsTravelerHistoric Baltic Republics
    Toompea Castle; view from Dome Park, on the west
    Toompea Castle; Landskrone Tower / Pikk Hermann Tower (Tall Hermann)Toompea Castle; National Council ( the old fortress was updated by Catherine the Great)Alexander Nevsky Russian Orthodox CathedralSculpture on the side of a house / St Mary's Lutheran CathedralLookout views; Rear of building in Upper Old Town / View down to Lower Old TownLookout views; Niguliste Church, now restored to a museum / St Olaf's ChurchDanish King's Garden; viewsDanish King's Garden; Maiden's Tower (access to the walls) / Cafe Culture exhibitionKiek in de Kok Tower; part of the museum with access to the underground Bastion Passages (closed)

    Tallinn 2; Old Town - Upper (Toompea)

    June 2, 2024 in Estonia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We start the day with a guided tour of Tallinn Old Town. We start by walking up towards Toompea Castle; originally built in the 9th century. It was overtaken by Danish crusaders in the 13th century; when Estonia became part of the Russian Empire, there were Baroque modifications. We are led through the Upper Old Town and see any of the sites (see photo captions), including lovely views down onto the Lower Old Town.

    I revisited later alone to spend more time in the Danish King's Garden, going up to the accessible walls and museum there, as well as visiting the Kiek in die Kok Tower; this means "peek into the kitchen" in the German dialect of the time, but is amusing when spoken in English!    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsTravelerHistoric Baltic Republics
    Steps from Danish King's Garden down to the Lower Town / Long Leg Gate Tower in the Lower Town
    Holy Spirit Church/ Great Guild HallOld Hansa, a Medieval RestaurantTown Hall SquareTallinn Town Hall, the only surviving Gothic Town Hall in northern EuropeViru Gate / View of the Lower Town from the Hellemann TowerViews from the Hellemann Tower and of the walkway; the second shows St Olaf's ChurchViews from St Olaf's Church Tower; Upper Old Town / Castle WallsGreat Coast Gate / Tower along the wallsFreedom Square; the glass cross commemorates the Estonian War of Independence

    Tallinn 3; Old Town - Lower

    June 2, 2024 in Estonia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    The guided tour continues down to the Lower Old Town and ends in the Town Hall Square. The Old Town is very beautiful, colourful, and reminiscent of Prague.

    After revisiting the Danish King's Garden (see previous post), I carry on exploring the Lower Town, heading north from Viru Gate towards the sea (see captions on pictures) to see Linnahall and have a walk by the sea front of Tallinn (see next post),

    After that, it's back to the hotel, walking near to the castle walls.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsTravelerHistoric Baltic Republics
    Linnahall - it was built for the sailing event of the 1980 Olympics, hosted by Russia
    Linnahall - it was built for the sailing event of the 1980 Olympics, hosted by RussiaWalk by the sea; a tourist boat in the small harbourView back to the Energy Discovery Centre / Typical apartment block in KalarannaPatarei; it was originally a sea fortress and then repurposed as a prisonPatarei; view from the sea path / view from the rear, on the way backSeaplane Harbour - the museum is behind the boatNoblessner sea front quarterNoblessner sea front quarter

    Tallinn 4; Linnahall / Walk by the sea

    Jun 2–4, 2024 in Estonia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    From the Old Town, I walk past the Energy Discovery Centre and up to Linnahall. Linnahall is a relic of Estonia's Soviet occupation and was built for the 1980 Olympics for the sailing event; it was originally called the V. I. Lenin Palave of Culture and Sports, and is built in the brutalist architecture of the time - it is still used as a heliport.

    From there, I walk around the harbour area and join the path at Kalaranna in the Kalamaja District of Tallinn. The path passes by Patarei; this was originally built as a sea fortres to provide defence against the Russians, but was then used as a prison. The path goes through the Seaplane Harbour, a maritime museum, and on to the Noblessner sea front quarter; this was originally a submarine shipyard, but it is now a nicely developed area. I walk back through Kalamaja to the walls and towers of the Old Town.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsTravelerHistoric Baltic Republics
    Muhu Open Air Museum of Koguva; Statue of Juhan Smuul / Old well
    Muhu Open Air Museum of Koguva; Farm buildingMuhu Open Air Museum of Koguva; Textile DisplayMuhu Open Air Museum of Koguva; SchoolhouseKoguva portKarja ChurchKarja Church outside; pre- Christian symbols / 13-14th century trapezoidal gravestonesAngla Windmills; Dutch and two trestle windmills / the two other trestle windmills behind themTrestle windmill; exterior / interiorKaali Meteorite Crater

    En route to Kuressaare

    June 3, 2024 in Estonia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We leave at 9:30 am and drive towards the Gulf of Riga; the roads are very good, and there are lots of trees en route to Virtsu where we take the ferry to Kaivastu on Muhu Island.

    From here, we drive to the small village and port of Koguva, where the Muhu Open Air Ethnographic Museum of Koguva is situated; the museum reflects Estonian peasant architecture and life - there are separate farm and textile museums, as well as the original school house. The museum has been established on the farm where the Estonian poet and writer Junan Smuul was born; he had associations with Stalin.

    After lunch nearby in Liiva, we drive across the 2.5 km causeway to Saaremaa Island. We visit Karja Church; this church contains the richest medieval stone sculptures in the Baltic States, but boes not open until 15th June (doh!). It is built from dolomite sandstone and is very large, but Karja village could not prosper because of the nature of the rising ground in the area.

    From here, we visit the Angla Windmill Hill site, which comprises four typical trestle windmills characteristic of the island, one Dutch-style windmill, and a heritage museum on local folk culture and engineering - it is very interesting.

    We then stop off at the Kaali Meteotite Crater; we see the largest of the 9 craters that are here. The impact could have been up to 7,500 years ago; the Crater is 100m wide and almost circular.

    Then it's on to Kuressaare, the main town on Saaremaa Island; it is on the south of the island, facing the Gulf of Riga.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsTravelerHistoric Baltic Republics
    Statue of Suur Toll and Piret, a mythical hero of the island and his wife
    The Great Bridge over the Poduste River / Most of the Explore tour groupKudjape Cemetery, from the German / Baltic time; there is a military graveyard next to itKuressaare Town Hall (Gothic); the same clock mechanism works both sides of itKuressaare Town Hall; the largest ceiling painting in EstoniaMonument to the War of IndependenceSt Laurence Lutheran Church / St Nicholas Orthodox ChurchKuressaare Episcopal Castle; view from the beach / view across the moatKuressaare Episcopal Castle; entrance / Watch TowerViews from the defence battlement; Bastion / Out to sea

    Kuressaare

    June 4, 2024 in Estonia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Kuressaare has a population of 12,000, over third of that of Saaremaa Island; the town was established by the Vikings in the 7th century. It became a spa town in the 19th century, when reserves of healing mud were found nearby; there are still many spa hotels here.

    We have a guided tour of the attractions around the town on our tour bus before being dropped off at the triangular shaped town centre for a walking tour, being dropped off at Kuressaare Castle to do our own thing (see captions on photos).

    Kuressaare Castle, aka Kuressaare Episcopal Castle or the Bishop's Castle, is the best preserved in the Baltic; it is Gothic in style, with a square building around a central courtyard. It was founded in 1260, but what we see today is from the 14th century and made from Dolomite sandstone; the bastions were added in the 16th and 17th centuries. It contains the Saaremaa Museum, dedicated to the nature and history of the island. It was an interesting visit.

    After that, I walk around the bastions outside and up to the harbour area, taking many pictures, Then it's back across the beach to the very conveniently located hotel. I go back for a swim in Kuressaare Bay, the Baltic Sea, later on; it was lovely - not cold and not salt! A great day.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsTravelerHistoric Baltic Republics
    Tallinn Gate / Vallikaar Park
    St Elizabeth's Lutheran ChurchMary Magdalene Guild; buildingMary Magdalene Guild: Some of the workshops insideSt Catherine's Orthodox Church / Town Hall EntranceRuutli Street, the main thoroughfareGunpowder Magazine Gym; the original building has been reconstructed and is now a gymHanseatic building

    En route to Tartu 1; Parnu

    June 5, 2024 in Estonia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We set off at 9am for Tartu on the mainland of Estonia, and retrace our route to Kuressaare (causeway to Muhu and ferry to mainland) before heading south to Parnu; there is a lot of forest en route.

    Parnu became a Hanseatic Sea Port in the 14th century (i.e., Germanic) and, like the rest of Estonia, has been ruled by several parties since then. It is now the Summer Capital of Estonia and is very popular with Finns, Swedes, and Germans due to the clean air, mud baths, and beach; we visit the Old Town, which is sourh of the River Parnu (the beach resort area is north of the river.

    We have a walk round with Dzuigas, our tour guide, and I then visit various other places alone (instead of having lunch); see captions on the photos - it is a nice place. We then set off for Vijlandi.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsTravelerHistoric Baltic Republics
    Vijlandi Teutonic Order Castle; map / suspension bridge entrance
    Vijlandi Teutonic Order Castle;Vijlandi Teutonic Order CastleVijlandi Teutonic Order CastleVijlandi; Old buildings / Town HallWater TowerStatue of Johann Koler, a local poet / Monument to the War Of IndependenceSt John's Lutheran ChurchTartu; Pussirohukelder, a former gunpowder vault carved into a hillside, and now a beer restaurantPussirohukelder; entrance / inside - it boasts the highest pub ceiling in the world

    En route to Tartu 2; Vijlandi

    June 5, 2024 in Estonia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Vijlandi is a pretty town overlooking a picturesque valley with a lake at the centre; the main attraction is the castle, but the town is interesting as well.

    We start at Vijlandi Teutonic Order Castle; there was originally a hill fort built in the 9th century on part of the site, but the German Crusaders (the Knights of the Sword or the Livonian Order), built stone fortifications on a series of three small hills; the main castle was a convent building protected by three outer baileys. It fell into disrepair after the Polish-Swedish wars in the 17th century; now, only parts of the wall and foundations remain. We continue with a short tour of the Old Town (see captions on photos).

    We drive on to Tartu for two nights; most of us walk along the river and via the Town Hall Square to Pussirohukelder, formerly a gunpowder cellar, but now a beer restaurant; I have an Estonian mashed potato dish with smoked meat and sour cream, served in a bread roll, as well as some the excellent house beer!    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsTravelerHistoric Baltic Republics
    Bronze pig sculpture outside Tartu Market / Peace Bridge, renamed from the Russian "Victory Bridge"
    Town Hall Square; Capital of Culture/ Estonia flag and Tartu flag / Town HallTartu Art Museum, leaning due to subsidence / Kissing Students StatueToome Hill; Angel's Bridge / Devil's BridgeToome Hill; Cathedral Ruins - they now house the University of Tartu MuseumSt John's Lutheran Church, noted for its small terracotta figures on the outside and insideUniversity of Tartu Main Building; painting of it on a wall nearby / the front of the actual museumUniversity of Tartu Art Museum; 19th century student lock-up for naughty students / Assembly HallUniversity of Tartu Botanic GardensFather and Son Statue (a self portrait by the artist) / Wilde and Vilde Statue

    Tartu

    June 6, 2024 in Estonia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Tartu was established when the Livonian Order (the German Crusaders) built on a hill here (Toomemagi); the town was originally known as Dorpat. Tartu University was established during the Swedish reign in the 17th century. Peter the Great took the town for Russia, but it was mostly wrecked; the rest was destroyed by fire in 1775. After some rebuilding, it was destroyed again in WWII; the Post Soviet period has seen a lot of rebuilding and growth. Tartu is now the second largest city in Estonia after Tallinn; it is the premier university town and is the European Capital of Culture for 2024.

    We have a guided tour of the Old Town and Toome Hill (Toomemagi), and then I did some more exploring on my own; see captions on photos for details about the city.

    In the evening, we walk via the Father and Son statue to the Vilde ja Vine restaurant for dinner; outside is a statue of Oscar Wilde and the Estonian Writer Eduardo Vilde (they never actually met).    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsTravelerHistoric Baltic Republics
    Cesis / The Explore Group
    Cesis Castle, founded in 1204 by the Livonian Brothers of the SwordCesis CastleCesis CastleCesis Castle is on the grounds of Count von Sievers Manor House, now a museum.St John's ChurchBuildings on Cesis Main StreetPark area in CesisSigulda; view down to Gauja River / Cable car for the valley

    LATVIA Gauja NP 1; Cesis and Sigulda

    June 7, 2024 in Latvia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    We set off at 9 am, heading south to Latvia and Riga; we will drive through the Gauja National Park.

    Latvia has been invaded by every regional power; it has a population of less than 2 million, and the language spoken is a Baltic language similar to Lithuanian - 40% of the population are Russian speaking, however. Half of the country is covered by forest, and timber is a big part of the economy; other main exports are fish and canned fish. There are lots of folk songs, and it is a very "singing" oriented country. The women are the tallest in Europe, on average.

    The Gauja National Park was established in 1973; it is only an hour or so outside Riga - and very popular for day trips from here. We stop off at Cesis, a small town on the Gauja River, noted for its 13th-century castle, which was sacked by Ivan the Terrible in 1577. We walk around the castle grounds and see some of the town; see picture captions for details.

    We stop off at Sigulda, regarded as the gateway to Gauja National Park, for lunch, and visit the nearby cable car for the view over the Gauja River. It is then a short drive to the other side of the river and our next destination, the Turaida Museum Reserve.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsTravelerHistoric Baltic Republics
    Turaida Castle; aerial view (from poster)
    Turaida Castle; the tall cylindrical tower / views down from the topTuraida Castle; the granary / the southern towerTuraida Castle; the Bishop's ChairTuraida Reserve; Wooden ChurchThe grave of Maija Roze, the "Rose of Turaida"1Riga; Ala Pagrabs, medieval cellar bar - flight of 5 small beersRiga; Ala Pagrabs - beer platter / barRiga; Ala Pagrabs - the excellent Alum Alu folk band

    Gauja NP 2; Turaida Museum Reserve

    June 7, 2024 in Latvia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The Turaida Museum Reserve is an area of green knoll, dominated by the red-brick Turaida Castle, the Bishop's Palace, and its tall cylindrical tower; it was built in the 13th century on the site of a Livonian stronghold. There are small and interesting museums inside the various buildings here. The rest of the reserve has walks and small exhibits. The small church, one of the oldest wooden churches in Latvia, features the grave of "the Rose of Turaida," a melancholy legend about a beautiful young woman murdered in a nearby cave by a soldier who wanted her; she was in love with a local gardener...... ( It's worth a Google).

    Then we drive to Riga. It's an interesting evening (see captions on photos).    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsTravelerHistoric Baltic Republics
    Old Town walls, Convent Yard / Bremen Town Musicians sculpture
    St Peter’s Square; St Peter's Church / View of St John's ChurchTown Hall Square; House of the Blackheads / Town HallBeautiful cobbled street viewDome Square; Riga CathedralRiga Castle: It was built in the 15th century and is now the Presidential ResidenceThe Three Brothers; the oldest complex of dwelling houses in RigaView back to Riga Cathedral / Swedish Gate, the only remaining gate in the city wallsCity Walls (including new addition to the original) / Powder Tower, part of the defence systemSmall Guild / Great Guild / Cat House

    Riga 1; Old Riga

    June 8, 2024 in Latvia ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Riga has been an important port for the Hanseatic League, followed by the Swedish, and more recently, the Russians, due to its proximity to the Baltic Sea (15km); it lies on the Gulf of Riga on the Daugava River. One-third of the population of Latvia lives here.

    Outside of the popular tourist centre of medieval Old Riga, beyond the canal ring, there are many interesting sites; it is noted for its Art Nouveau architecture, in particular.

    We have a guided tour of Old Riga (Vecriga), the historic heart of the city, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site (see captions on photos for details); it is a beautiful place full of cobbled streets    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsTravelerHistoric Baltic Republics
    River Daugava; National Library of Latvia / The port area
    Kronvaldi Park; behind the small monument is a fragment of the Berlin WallArt Nouveau; Vilandes ielaArt Nouveau; Strelnieku iela / Alberta ielaArt Nouveau; Smithsu iela / Vilandes ielaArt Nouveau; Italian Embassy / Kalku ielaBastion Park along the Canal; built over the old fortress rampartsLatvian National Opera HouseRiga Central Market; constructed from old German Zeppelin hangarsDinner with the group

    Riga 2; A walk to Art Nouveau district

    June 8, 2024 in Latvia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I set off on a short walk along the Daugava River towards the Art Nouveau district; Art Nouveau is everywhere in the city, however, and Riga boasts over 750 buildings and has the most Art Nouveau architecture in the world. Art Nouveau style was popular from 1890 to 1910 throughout Europe and the United States, and there is a lot here because it coincided with a time of prosperity in the city; it is about curvy lines depicting organic form (apparently).

    I walk back via the canal as much as possible, eventually reaching Riga Central Market, close to the junction of the river and the canal (see captions on photos for details about the walk).    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsTravelerHistoric Baltic Republics
    Museum of the Occupation of Latvia
    The Freedom Monument; Honours soldiers killed in the Latvian War of IndependenceNativity of Christ Orthodox Cathedral, the largest on the Baltic ProvincesViews from the Radisson Blu Sky BarViews from the Radisson Blu Sky BarOld St Gertrude's ChurchCorner House; the former KGB compound

    Riga 3; Other Sights in Riga

    June 9, 2024 in Latvia ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    A later start today due to the rain. These sights are practically a straight line northeast from the Town Hall Square, close to the River Daugava.

    The Museum of the Occupation of Latvia describes Latvia under the rule of the Soviet Union and National Socialist Germany from 1939-1991; there are sections on being an independent state (1918-40), the Hitler- Stalin pact, the ruined land, Gulag times, Soviet Occupation to the free country it is today - there is dark, red, and white lighting as appropriate. I visited - it is a good but not uplifting experience!

    From there, the route passes the Freedom Monument, Orthodox Church, the Radisson Blu Hotel (for views from the top) Old St Gertrude's Church, finishing at the Corner House, the former KGB compound; I visited here as well - this has disturbing accounts of prisoners, but another "good" experience.

    Another good day, and it's back on the road tomorrow.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsTravelerHistoric Baltic Republics
    Rundale Palace
    East Wing state rooms; Gold Hall, used as a throne roomEast Wing state rooms; Antechamber to Gold Hall / White Hall, the oval porcelain cabinetEast wing state rooms; The White Hall, used as a ballroom / detail of panel on the wallState apartments; corridor / library / room heatingState apartments; room / portrait of the DukeState apartments; the Duke's bedroom / the magnificent view down to the gardensState apartments; tea room / dining roomWest Wing Duchess's rooms; boudoir / toilet roomWest Wing Duchess's rooms; porcelain set

    Rundale Palace

    June 10, 2024 in Latvia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Today, we visit Rundale Palace; this Baroque Palace is the most important in the Baltic region and a monument to the ostentatiousness of the 18th century aristocracy here. It was built as a summer residence for the Duke of Courland (Courland was a duchy of Latvia then); an old castle was dismantled by the architect (Rastrelli, who also built the St Petersburg Winter Palace) using a Russian Labour force. The Palace was damaged in WWI, when it was used as a school and later as a granary; the Russians "let it go" because of its decadence, but is has now been restored (1972-2015).

    The East Wing was state rooms for formal occasions, the central part was the Duke's state apartments, and the West Wing was the Duchess's private residence; see captions on photos for details.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsTravelerHistoric Baltic Republics
    Hill of Crosses; general view / view of the other 'half" caused by Russian bulldozing
    Hill of CrossesHill of Crosses; Pope John Paul II has placed a cross here - there is an inscription below itKlaipeda; views from one of the bridges over the River DaneKlaipeda; Theatre Square, Drama Theatre / Old House - German style, 18th century, wood framedKlaipeda; Old TownKlaipeda; statue and monumentsKlaipeda; Museum ship / The Meridianas, now a restaurantKlaipeda; views down from the Amberton Hotel sky deck - port area / Old TownKlaipeda; views of the port area from the ferry

    LITHUANIA; Hill of Crosses and Klaipeda

    June 10, 2024 in Lithuania ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We cross the border into Lithuania; it is less forested and flatter compared to the other Baltic States. The population of Lithuania is 2.7 million, and it is the same size as Latvia (population 2 million). The Lithuanian language is the oldest spoken European language. There is no German influence here in general, and the country is more closely associated with Poland - they are both strongly Catholic- and it has a stronger "East European" feel (particularly in Central Lithuania); there have been several rebellions against Russia over the years.

    The Hill of Crosses is in northern Lithuania, near Siauliai, and it is believed crosses were first placed here after the 1831 Uprising; it represents a symbol of defiance for both anti-Russian rule and for pro-Catholism - there are thousands of crosses here now. The Russians have tried to bulldoze it down, but it split! The Hill of Crosses is now both a major pilgrimage site and a major tourist attraction.

    We then drive on to Klaipeda, a city on the coast of Western Lithuania. It was originally a Teutonic Knight Fortess town, becoming part of Prussia and was known as the German name of Memel. The town was destroyed during the Russian invasion in WWII and rebuilt as a Soviet city; a small part of the Old Town area remains. It is now an important Lithuanian city as it is the country's only seaport; all oil and import / import is done here, and shipbuilding is a major industry. Its location, where the River Dane meets the Baltic Sea, makes it a very windy place. The main attraction is the Curonian Spit National Park.

    The next day, I have a quick explore of the Old Town on my own, as described on the picture captions.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsTravelerHistoric Baltic Republics
    Parnidis Dune; the drifting 52m coastal sand dune / View towards Kaliningrad, Russia
    Parnidis Dune; Monument to French writer Jean-Paul Sartre / Large granite sundialNida; Old fisherman's cottage / Old low bottomed boat for the shallow watersNida; Old boat weather vanes / View along beach areaNida; Church cemetery, with old grave markers /Monument to the giantess, NeringaHill of Witches; entranceHill of Witches; characters from Lithuanian folklore and legendHill of Witches; St George and the Dragon / otherHill of Witches; Old WitchesCormorant colony, near Juodkrante

    Curonian Spit National Park (Neringa)

    June 11, 2024 in Lithuania ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    The Curonian Spit National Park is a UNESCO site in Western Lithuania that occupies approx. half of a 100km peninsula that stretches up from the Russian province of Kaliningrad; it is reached by a short 5 minute ferry ride from Klaipeda (there is no bridge due to the ships). There are 4 fishing villages on the Spit, which is mainly covered by pine trees inhabited by moose, wild boar, and many bird species. Behind the Spit is the Curonian Lagoon; this broadens as you head south.

    We travel down to the Nida area, 48 km from Klaipeda and 3km from the Russian border, and work our way back up. We walk around the outskirts of the Parnidis Dune to the fishing village of Nida. Then it's on the Hill of Witches, a 42 m high hill that was a focus of pagan ritual centuries before Lithuania adopted Christianity; since 1979, wooden sculptures have been added, describing describing local legends etc. Our final stop is at a cormorant colony; there are thousands here, but their excrement kills the trees they live in!

    An excellent day out.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsTravelerHistoric Baltic Republics
    Old Town: Vytautus Church - one of the oldest in Kaunas, close to the Nemunas River
    House of Perkunas - a 15th-century Gothic mansion built by the Hanseatic LeagueTown Hall - the tallest Tower in Old TownMaironis Lithuanian Literary Museum / Sculpture nearbyKaunas Castle - reconstructed Tower, some original wallViews around the Castle area; Statue / the other side of the River NerisSt's Peter and Paul Cathedral - originally Gothic, but has had Baroque reconstruction insideOld Town; Vilniaus Gatve / New Town; Freedom AvenueNew Town; Statue of Vytautus the Great / Other statues on Unity SquareNew Town; Christ's Resurrection Basilica in the background / St Michael the Archangel Church

    Kaunas

    June 12, 2024 in Lithuania ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Kaunas is the second largest city in Lithuania and situated at the geographic centre of the country, at the confluence of the two largest rivers (the River Nemunas and the River Negris). This key position made it a key Hanseatic League River port in the 15th - 16th centuries and a key city during the Soviet occupation. The population, 300k, is 98% Lithuanian and attached to tradition (country and Catholicism). After terrible flooding in 1951, a hydroelectric power dam was built on the Nemunas River in 1960 (the only HEP dam in the country).

    We have an explore of the Old Town, and the walk via Vilniaus Gatve, the main artery of the Old Town to our hotel; later we walk east along part of Freedom Avenue (the longest pedestrian street in Eastern Europe) towards the New Town area for dinner close to Unity Square - the New Town expanded in the 19th century. Details of the sights, etc, are shown on the photo captions.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsTravelerHistoric Baltic Republics
    Pazaislis Monastery; Church of the Visitation
    Pazaislis Monastery; the marble interior of the churchPazaislis Monastery; Baroque carvings in the churchPazaislis Monastery; the entrance (from inside) / one of the monks' private residencesTrakai Castle; views of it over the lakeTrakai Castle; views across the courtyardTrakai Castle; view / Vytautus the GreatTrakai Castle; exhibits inside the buildingsTrakai Castle; remains of another fortification / view from the other side of the lakeTrakai; Old style house in the village / view of Trakai Church

    Pazaislis Monastery and Trakai Castle

    June 13, 2024 in Lithuania ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Pazaislis Monastery is 9km from Kaunas, east along the Nemunas River, and built on a promontory that juts into the "Kaunas Sea"; it was built by Camaldolese Monks in the 17th century, the Church is Baroque in style, and overall it was the richest monastery in the country, being built for the elite - there were 24 private residences for the monks. Over the years, it has been pillaged by Napoleon, became Russian Orthodox in 1831, and used as a psychiatric hospital by the Russians; nowadays, Music Festivals are held here in the Summer and there is a "fine dining" restaurant. It has a truly magnificent marble interior. (We visited the Monastery yesterday morning, but it is described here for convenience)

    Trakai is located in a district of lakes (approx 200) and hills, and the town and area are in a designated National Park; Trakai town is actually located on a 2km peninsula, with Trakai Castle itself located on an island in Lake Garva (it is accessed by walkway). Trakai Castle was built in 1408 by the Lithuanian Grand Duke Vytautus the Great as a strategic fortified area between lakes. Unfortunately, the tall keep of the ducal palace is under repair when we visit, so we can't see everything on our tour, particularly the inner coutyard. We visit the history museum in the various buildings. It is still an interesting visit.

    After that, it is on to Vilnius.....    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsTravelerHistoric Baltic Republics
    Vilnius Cathedral and Bell Tower
    Inside Vilnius Cathedral; Main view/ St Casimir's ChapelPalace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania / Gediminas Hill and TowerNational Museum of Lithuania with Gediminas Tower behind it / Gediminas TowerOld Town; Pilies Gatve, the main entrance to the Old Town from Cathedral SquareBernadine Church and Monastery; the Church is one of Vilnius' oldest Gothic buildingsBernadine Church and Monastery; in the Monastery complexSt Anne's Church; flamboyant and Gothic, Napoleon wanted to relocate it to ParisLiteratu Gatve (Literati Street), a public display of plaquesSts John Church, part of Vilnius University; the Bell Tower is the tallest structure in the Old Town

    Vilnius; Cathedral Square and Old Town 1

    June 13, 2024 in Lithuania ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Vilnius developed originally as a fortified area between hills on the River Neris (which flows to Kaunas).; it is a very green city with lots of parks and the central area is very compact. The Old Town is the largest in Eastern Europe and has UNESCO status.

    Starting at Cathedral Square, I have an explore and then walk to Gediminas Hill; I take the funicular to the top to see the Tower.

    Later, we have a guided tour of Old Town with our tour guide Dzuigas, who lives in Vilnius; we start at the northern end, Pilies Gatve, and then cross over to the Bernadine Church and Monastery, before coming back over to the Vilnius University area. It is very interesting and informative - see captions on photos for details and a future post for more Old Town.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsTravelerHistoric Baltic Republics
    Church of St Peter and Paul
    Church of St Peter and Paul; Baroque interior with 2,000 stuccoesHill of Three Crosses in Kalnu Park / View down to Cathedral Square and Gediminas HillWalking along the River VilniaUzupis; border checkpoint for the self-proclaimed independent RepublicUzupis Art IncubatorUzupis Art Incubator; Jesus with a backpackThe Angel of Uzupis, a freedom monument / The Constitution of Uzupis on a wall in Paupio StreetThe Uzupis Constitution in English (Zoom in to read) / The Angel of UzupisThe Uzupis flag / Tibet Square

    Vilnius; East of River Vilnia and Uzupis

    June 14, 2024 in Lithuania ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    On our arrival yesterday, we stopped off at the Church of St Peter and Paul as it is a long way to the east of the city; the Church has a Baroque interior that is the finest in the country. There are also good views down to the city nearby. Later on yesterday, I walked up the Hill of Three Crosses for the superb views (and exercise) and then along the River Vilnia as far as Uzupis before heading back to the Old Town

    Conveniently, our guided four with Dzuigas today went into Uzupis; this is a quirky, bohemian area that declared independence on 1st April 1997 (April Fools Day); it's a great place - see captions on photos for details.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsTravelerHistoric Baltic Republics
    Sts John Bell Tower; views of Vilnius from the top
    Sts John Bell Tower; views of Vilnius from the topVilnius University; main courtyard / Department of Astronomy building / One of the hallsTown Hall; a big band rehearsalSt Casimir's ChurchSt Teresa's ChurchThe Gates of Dawn, the other end of the Old Town; the Chapel of Our Lady contains an iconic imageJewish Vilnius; Choral Synagogue / Sculpture outside MO Museum / Vilna Gaon State Jewish MuseumJewish Vilnius; The Glass QuarterLokys Restaurant for the final meal; boar meat roast / Dzuigas, our tour guide / Cheers!

    Vilnius; Old Town 2 and Jewish Vilnius

    June 14, 2024 in Lithuania ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    The Sts John Church Bell tower offers spectacular views of Vilnius; after that, Dzuigas takes us on a short tour of Vilnius University to see some of the many courtyards and halls, which are open to visitors. We carry on through the Old Town, reaching the southern border at the Gates of Dawn.

    I then headed west and north to the Jewish area of Vilnius; before WWII, Vilnius was known as the "Jerusalem of the East," but most was destroyed during the war. By coincidence, we returned to the area in the evening for dinner - and the end of the Historic Baltic Republics trip.    Read more

    Trip end
    June 15, 2024
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