• Alexandria 3; Bibliotheca Alexandrina

    21 ноября 2022 г., Египет ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Alexandria was also home to The Library of Alexandria, the largest in the Ancient World. This is long gone, but the decision was taken in 1974 to reincarnate it as The Bibliotheca Alexandrina. It opened in 2002 and is now a major Library containing 8 million books, as well as being a Cultural Centre that hosts galleries, exhibitions and a museum of antiquities. It also houses The Sadat Museum, a permanent display dedicated to the life of President Sadat, which we visit.

    We stop at Carrefour in Alexandria to get provisions for our overnight train journey from Cairo to Aswan; we then set off back to Cairo. Living the dream!
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  • Alexandria 2; Kom el Shoqafa Catacombs

    21 ноября 2022 г., Египет ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    The Kom el Shoqafa Catacombs were discovered by accident in 1902, when a donkey accidentally fell into the main access shaft during some construction work. Also known as the Necropolis, the Catacombs are one of the Seven Wonders of the Middle Ages.

    They comprise a series of tombs built on three levels and bodies were lowered down a central shaft by rope before being transferred to their tombs. They are thought to be for one family originally, as the highly decorated principal Tomb chamber comprises three sarcophagi with sealed lids (the bodies were inserted from below).

    In the courtyard, we visit The Tigran Tomb; this was moved here after its discovery in 1952 - the patterns in the decorations date back to the 2nd century BC!
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  • Alexandria 1; Qaitbay Citadel / Corniche

    20 ноября 2022 г., Египет ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We leave Cairo heading west, passing close to 6th October City (the date is a significant one for Egypt); this is still part of Cairo and here on the outskirts are may upmarket, gated communities. We now travel north into much greener countryside and reach Alexandria in 3 hours; this is the second largest city in Egypt and the largest on the Mediterranean Coast.

    Alexandria was founded by Alexander the Great in 331 BC and built under his orders, heralding the start of the Greco-Roman period of Egyptian history and becoming a centre of Hellenic civilisation.

    Qaitbay Citadel (aka The Fort of Qaitbay) is an important 15th century fortification system with a mosque inside it and is built on the foundations of the Lighthouse of Alexandria (one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World); it is possible to scuba dive here and see some of Ancient relics that are kept under water for their protection.

    We explore the Citadel and then drive along the waterfront road to our hotel; this waterfront promenade is known as The Corniche and extends for 10 miles east from the Citadel along the curved bay to Montaza.

    Later on, we walk along part of The Corniche and see Stanley Bridge with its private access beach behind it; this bridge was the first on Egypt to be constructed over the sea. There are many restaurants and areas of entertainment on the beach side of The Corniche, as Alexandria is a very popular resort for Egyptian tourists.
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  • Cairo 3; The Egyptian Museum

    19 ноября 2022 г., Египет ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    The Egyptian Museum is also known as the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities and the Cairo Museum; it is the Middle East's oldest archaeological museum and houses many artefacts (including those from the tomb of Tutankhamun). It is located close to Tahrir Square; this is also known as Martyr's Square due to the many demonstrations that have been held there in the past.

    Our guide gives us a tour of the highlights of the Museum; some of these are described by the images here and the detailed captions with them.

    We also see The Mummy Room and the Tutankhamun Hall; photography is absolutely forbidden here, but we see many amazing things, including the gold funereal mask of the boy-king Tutankhamun.

    An excellent visit; note that in due course, the Egyptian Museum will be eclipsed by the Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM) which is scheduled to open in early 2023....
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  • Cairo 2; The Giza Pyramid Complex

    19 ноября 2022 г., Египет ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    The Pyramids of Giza site is the last remaining of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World and on many a " bucket list"; hence the crowds on the day! There are three main Pyramids, but actually nine on the site, and date from 2,600 - 2,500 BC (Fourth Dynasty). They were originally covered in a white limestone casing.

    We start at the Great Pyramid of Khufu (Cheops in Greek); the complex comprises the Great Pyramid itself (146m high and made from 2.3 million stone blocks!), three Queen's Pyramids and three boat pits (the stones were transported by water). We went inside to see the King's Gallery, comprising a sarcophagus of Aswan Granite; this is a narrow, hot, claustrophobic journey up and not for everyone! Glad we did it though!

    We then visit the Pyramid of Khafre (Chephren in Greek), the son of Khufu. The Pyramid still has some limestone casing at the the top; access to the Pyramid from street level is guarded by the Great Sphinx down below.

    We drive past the third Pyramid (the Pyramid of Menkaure (Mykerinos in Greek)), the son of Khafre and the grandson of Khufu, to reach a panorama viewpoint for the whole site (we are not alone here).

    Next stop is the Great Sphinx; this is accessed via the Khafre Valley Temple. The Sphinx is the head of Khafre on the body of a lion, and magnificent. The Temple is interesting too, as the inside is encased with red granite from Aswan to protect it from flooding by the River Nile.

    A wonderful experience that is now off our bucket list!
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  • Cairo 1; Nat. Mus. Egyptian Civilization

    18 ноября 2022 г., Египет ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We landed at Cairo Airport yesterday and had our first experience of the rush hour traffic here.....

    A free day today and we visit The National Museum of Egyptian Civilization, NMEC; this is located in Old Cairo and overlooks the natural lake of Ain Sina. The Museum was officially opened last year (April 2021) and is a cultural hub that displays artefacts in the chronological order of Prehistoric, Ancient (the time of the Pharaohs), Greco-Roman (after Alexander the Great and then the Romans), Coptic (the Egyptian form of Christianity), Muslim and Modern Periods.. An excellent experience. The most well-known period is, of course, the Ancient Period, but modern Egypt is now 85% Muslim and 15% Christian.

    Most significant is the Royal Mummy Room on the lower level where Royal coffins and mummies moved here from the main museums and sites of Egypt to centralise them in one place; they are displayed in chronological order of the dynasties. No photographs allowed, but an amazing display.

    We visit the temporary Egyptian Textiles Exhibition and enjoy the views outside the museum building, including The Dye-House, the only preserved archaeological remains of an Islamic dyehouse in Egypt, and The Citadel of Cairo (aka The Citadel of Saladin), a medieval Islamic era fortification.

    A great start to our Egypt Experience!
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  • Royston

    31 октября 2022 г., Англия ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Royston is a town in North Hertfordshire about 10miles from Duxford; the town has excellent road and rail communications and has grown rapidly in recent years.  Despite its size, the out-of -town shopping zones, industry etc there is still an area in the centre of the town that reflects its place in the history of the local area and this is where I planned a "cultural" visit based on the town trail map.

    Royston grew at the crossing of two ancient thoroughfares; Ermine Street (created after the Roman conquest) and the Icknield Way (originally a prehistoric routeway).  Roisia's Cross was erected at this crossroad and the name evolved to Roisia's Town and then Royston; a large boulder with a socket in it, supposed to be the base of the original cross, is now there.  Royston Cave - an artificial circular, bell-shaped chamber cut into the chalk bedrock - is underneath it and accessed from Melbourn Street (it is only open to the public on certain days during the Summer).

    Nearby, on Kneesworth Street, is a large house known as King James' Palace; King James VI stayed in Royston in 1603, went hunting and liked the area so much he decided to build a house here (actually a royal hunting lodge) as it was also close to his other favoured area of Newmarket.  The Royston Museum is on the other side of the road to the house.

    Back on Melbourn Street, I detour to see the County Court House - now a trendy bar and kitchen - on Fish Hill. I then double back to pass the Grade II listed Georgian Banyer's House and the Old Town Hall, now Royston Picture House.  These buildings are opposite the Priory Memorial Gardens, formerly attached to a nunnery, where The Parish Church of St. John the Baptist is located; this is Grade I listed and dates from the 12th century.  The border of the Gardens with Melbourn Street is where the WWI War Memorial is located - it features a two-foot high bronze statuette of a private of the First World War with a crow at his feet - and the gardens also house a war memorial dedicated to members of the United States Army Air Force 91st Bomb Group who died whilst stationed at Bassingbourn from 1942 to 1945.

    I walk over to the High Street and then up to the Old Bull Inn, a former 15th century coaching inn with stabling for over 100 horses, and a very popular place as on the other side is the Market Square.

    An interesting visit; I now see Royston a little differently to how I used to!
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  • Newcastle; across the city to Quayside

    23 октября 2022 г., Англия ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Newcastle is a city and metropolitan borough in Tyne and Wear and located on the River Tyne's northern bank.  Originally dependent on its port and, in particular, its status as one of the world's largest ship building and repair centres, the city today is much more diverse. 

    The first recorded settlement was Pons Aelius ("Hadrian's bridge"), a Roman fort and bridge across the River Tyne; it then became part of the powerful Anglo-Saxon kingdom of Northumbria.  Newcastel is named after its castle; originally a wooden castle in the Norman times, it was replaced by a stone castle and then rebuilt again in 1172 during the reign of Henry II.

    We start the walk across the city at the West Walls section of the Newcastle town wall, which was built during the 13th and 14th centuries to help protect the town from attack and occupation during times of conflict.  We then walk up towards St James' Park, the home of Newcastle United FC; this is close to Chinatown, one of five in the UK, and we walk through this and pass the Catholic Cathedral Church of St Mary.  We reach Newcastle Central Railway Station; outside of this is the Stephenson Monument, a memorial to George Stephenson who developed the 'Rocket', an early locomotive, with his son Robert and pioneered rail transport and the development of the first passenger railways.  There is a good view of the Newcastle Castle Keep from the station car park.

    As we carry on east we pass the Rutherford Memorial Fountain - a distinctive red sandstone drinking fountain is located at the top of the Bigg Market - and enjoy another view of the Castle from the road here before reaching Newcastle Cathedral, formally the Cathedral Church of St Nicholas.  We pass the historic Black Gate, originally the castle’s fortified gatehouse or barbican; this is close to the Moot Hall which was commissioned as a courthouse to replace the facilities at the Castle. 

    We now descend to walk along Quayside and see the magnificent and iconic bridges that cross the River Tyne from Newcastle to Gateshead on the other side (see photo captions); these are beautiful both by day and night.

    A brief visit to Newcastle, but "I'll be back".
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  • Whitley Bay

    22 октября 2022 г., Англия ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Whitley Bay is a seaside town in the county of Tyne and Wear, located around 10 miles east of Newcastle; it now includes the former village of Monkseaton.  The decline of local coal mining and dependent industries prompted Whitley to develop as a seaside holiday resort and this was aided by the opening of the North Tyne Loop railway line in 1882 and, from 1980 onwards, the development of the present Metro system.

    We walk along the promenade (aka The Links, a former 9-hole golf course) and enjoy a nice view of St Mary's Lighthouse in the distance; we take in the skateboard park, beach and War Memorial before heading back to the Spanish City; originally a permanent seaside fairground, this is now a fancy venue in a historic building with eateries and bar. 

    For refreshment, we visit The Dog and Rabbit Micro Brewery, converted from a women's clothing shop, and then walk to Monkseaton to The Left Luggage Room, a specialist craft beer pub sited the former Parcel and Left Luggage Room at the station there.
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  • Tynemouth

    22 октября 2022 г., Англия ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Tynemouth is a coastal town in the county of Tyne and Wear located around 8 miles east of Newcastle, and part of its metropolitan borough of North Tyneside. It is situated on the north side of the mouth of the River Tyne (hence its name) and the headland here has been settled since the Iron Age; the Romans may have occupied it as a signal station and in the 7th century a monastery was built in Tynemouth and later fortified.

    We start at the popular weekend market at Tynemouth as it is located inside the Metro Station; lots of LPs for sale and well worth a visit.  We walk into town passing the King's Priory School; at the top of the High Street on the outskirts of a small park is the Queen Victoria Statue and at the other end is the distinctive clock tower and drinking fountain -  there is a good view of the Promenade and Long Sands Beach from here.

    We are very close to Tynemouth Castle and Priory; the moated castle-towers, gatehouse and keep are combined with the ruins of the Benedictine priory where early kings of Northumbria were buried.  Now managed by English Heritage, it is very beautiful.  We walk towards the Tyne and see the Tynemouth Piers; there are actually two constructions - North and South - that have protected the mouth of the River Tyne from the ravages of the North Sea since Victorian times; before their construction, it was impossible for shipping to leave the river when an easterly gale blew. 

    A little further along is the Collingwood Monument; Lord Collingwood is sometimes referred to as the forgotten hero of Trafalgar as he was second-in-command to Admiral Lord Nelson during the Battle of Trafalgar.  He assumed command of the British fleet after the death of Lord Nelson, transferring to HMS Euryalus, and then led the fleet and completed the battle plans that he and Nelson had created together.  The four cannons are from Collingwood's flagship, the HMS Royal Sovereign, during the Battle of Trafalgar. 

    This area is definitely worth a second visit to explore it more thoroughly!
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  • Cavtat

    27 сентября 2022 г., Хорватия ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Cavtat is the most southerly Croatian resort of all, located around 20 km south of Dubrovnik and only 22 km from the border with Montenegro; it is a village by the sea in a small bay with a seafront promenade. 

    The final night of our Journey through the Balkans is spent here and we have the chance to explore this lovely place (see picture captions) before a farewell dinner with our fellow Explore travellers.
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  • Dubrovnik 2; More of The Old Town

    27 сентября 2022 г., Хорватия ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    From the Gate of Pile - without the guide - we walk round the north part of the Old Town and look into one of the many Games of Thrones shops in the town.  Back on the south part, we exit a small gate through the walls and descend down to a cafe and onto the rocks on the sea. Then it is back to the harbour area for a visit to the Porporela, a breakwater in the old city port; this is an old town landmark and 19th century pier which is popular for short walks and sea views.

    There is a lot more to do in Dubrovnik - the museums, a walk around the walls, a visit to Lokrum Island - but these will have to wait for the next visit here.....
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  • Croatia - Dubrovnik 1; The Old Town

    27 сентября 2022 г., Хорватия ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    Dubrovnik is a city on the Adriatic Sea in the southeast of Croatia; it is a UNESCO site in recognition of its medieval architecture and fortified old town. The Old Town is surrounded by a series of defensive stone walls and is one of the Mediterranean's top tourist destinations.

    It is a fantastic place and we joined a guide for his tour of the Old Town (mainly following the blue line on the free city tourist map, but with a few diversions), starting at the Gate of Ploce.  We see many of the Old Towns churches and main sites (see captions on pictures) as we criss-cross the southern part of the Old Town to the Stradun (main street) and reach the Gate of Pile.
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  • Tvrdos Monastery and Trebinje

    26 сентября 2022 г., Босния и Герцеговина ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    We drive south towards the Adriatic and visit the 15th century Serbian Orthodox Tvrdos Monastery, situated on cliffs above Trebinje. The Monastery was destroyed by an earthquake in the 17th century and rebuilt in 1920; the original 4th century roman church foundations are still visible inside the church. Tvrdos Monastery is renowned for its wine production and, yes, we sampled the white and the red.

    Trebinje is the southernmost city in BiH; it is situated on the River Trebisnjica and is only 28km from Dubrovnik. The small, walled Old Town is 18th century Ottoman and this is surrounded by Austro-Hungarian (1878-1918) buildings; there are also 10 forts on the hills surrounding the city.

    We have a tour of the Old Quarter and see the two mosques; the taller one cost the life of its builder as it was larger than that of the more dominant sultan. Outside the Old Quarter we see sites of the Austro-Hungarian period.

    We then walk along the river to see the Arslanagic-Perovia Bridge; this was moved downstream due to the building of a dam. Because of this fact, this historic Bridge is not able to obtain UNESCO status.
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  • Mostar

    25 сентября 2022 г., Босния и Герцеговина ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Mostar is the historic capital of Herzegovina (just as Sarajevo is for Bosnia). It is situated by the Neretva River and this is crossed in the Old Town by the famous Stari Most (Old Bridge). The Bridge dates from 1566, but was destroyed in the Bosnian War; it was reconstructed and had a grand re-opening in 2004 - it is now UNESCO protected.

    We vist an old 16th centuryTurkish House (Katjaz House) and the walk the cobbled streets of the Old Town, before returning to the Koski Nehmed Mosque; this has a beautiful interior and it possible to climb the steep steps of the minaret for magnificent views of the city.

    After dinner we walk around the beautiful Old Town again.
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  • Konjic and Tito's Bunker

    25 сентября 2022 г., Босния и Герцеговина ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We drive to Konjic; ARK D-O, aka Tito's Bunker, 10 minutes from here. This is a cold-war era Nuclear Bunker / Command Centre to protect President Tito and his inner circle of 350 in the event of nuclear conflict (thankfully, it was never used); its existence was a state secret until the break up of Yugoslavia in the 1990s.

    Construction started in 1953 and it was finished in 1977 at a cost of 4.6 billion USD. It has an underground horseshoe shaped structure and entrance is via a row of three normal looking houses in an isolated setting. It now functions to protect cultural heritage and has many art installations.
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  • Sarajevo 4; Besieged New Town (1992-5)

    24 сентября 2022 г., Босния и Герцеговина ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    We take an optional trip with Insider Tours to visit the Tunnel Museum in Butmir. For much of the 1990s conflict, Sarajevo was surrounded by hostile Serb forces and Butmir was the last Bosniak part of the city linked to the outside world. However, the airport runway lies between Butmir and Dobrinja inSarajevo.... A hand-dug 800m tunnel beneath it was the solution, and this kept Sarajevo supplied with arms and food during the three year siege (it is known as both Tunnel D-B and the Tunnel of Hope). Most of the tunnel has now collapsed, but a 20m section still remains.

    Later on, I visit the The Museum of Crimes against Humanity and Genocide in the Old Town. Many personal statements and quite moving.
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  • Sarajevo 2; Old Town District

    23 сентября 2022 г., Босния и Герцеговина ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    When the Austro-Hungarians took over Sarajevo, they built around the Turkish Quarter in a circular fashion; thus, within a few blocks of Bascarsija, there are examples of Cathedrals, Synagogues and traditional European architecture - as well as other mosques.

    This post focuses on these (see captions).
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  • Sarajevo 1; Bascarsija (Turkish Quarter)

    23 сентября 2022 г., Босния и Герцеговина ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Sarajevo is the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina (BiH) and is located on the Sarajevo valley, by the Miljscka River and surrounded by the Dinaric Alps.

    A group of villages was founded as a city in the 15th century by the Turks of the Ottoman Empire and developed further by Gazi Huzrev Bey with the building of mosques and bazaars. Sarajevo was destroyed in 1697 by Austrians, rebuilt in the form of a Citadel and became part of the Austro-Hungarian empire in 1878. Sarajevo is known as the Jerusalem of Europe as it has mosques, Catholic churches, Eastern Orthodox churches and synagogues in the same area.

    This post focuses on Bascarsija, the bustling old Turkish Quarter in the centre of town (see captions).
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  • Bosnia and Herzegovina; Visegrad

    23 сентября 2022 г., Босния и Герцеговина ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Visegrad is a town located at the confluence of the Drina and Rzav rivers; its main attraction is the 10 arch Ottoman era Mehmed Pasa Sokolovic Bridge, which was popularised by the Nobel prize winning Ivo Andric in his novel "The Bridge on the Drina".

    After seeing this, we walk back to town to explore Andricgrad, a stone walked mini "old-town" built as a cultural/historical museum built by Emir Kusterica (him again) as a dedication to Ivo Andric and opened on 28 June 2014. It was very interesting to walk around.
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  • Mokra Gora and Mecavnik (Kustendorf)

    22 сентября 2022 г., Сербия ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    We travel to Mokra Gora ("wet mountain"), a beautiful area between the slopes of three mountains (Zlatibor, Sargan and Tara).

    Here we ride on the Sargan Eight narrow gauge railway; this was built after WWI to link Mokra Gora and Sargan, enabling a railway link between Belgrade, Sarajevo and Dubrovnik - the problem was the 300m rise in height between the towns which are only 3.5km apart. This was solved via a 15km "figure of eight" railway line running through 22 tunnels! It stopped running in 1974, but was revived for tourism purposes in 1999. A wonderful experience, 45m each way with stops between.

    Next we travel to Mecavnik, a traditional Serbian village created by the Serbian film director Emir Kusterica for his film "Life is a Miracle". The streets are named after film directors and it is interesting to see. This village, more popularly known as Kustendorf, after the director's name, is now a popular tourist resort.
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  • Serbia; to Sirogojno

    21 сентября 2022 г., Сербия ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    We cross the border into Serbia and head towards the Mt Zlatibor Massif and the 13th century Mileseva Monastery, near to Prijepdie. This is one of Serbia's most important spiritual centres and is famous for its "White Angel" fresco painting depicting an angel visiting thr the grave of Christ.

    We then drive to the mountain village of Sirogojno, famous for its "Old Village" open air museum, a collection of 19th century buildings assembled from around the area (reminiscent of the Weald and Downland open air museum in the UK). The main exhibits are two Zlatibor house-yards, complete with residential and commercial buildings. We stay in an authentic guest cottage here tonight and enjoy a hearty meal with beers in the evening.

    After breakfast we walk into the village past the Church of Saints Peter and Paul and visit the Knitting Museum. In 1962, Dobrila Smiljanic recognised that the quality and motifs used on local knitwear could be of interest to the fashion industry; it was, and Sirogojno knitwear is still available to, albeit at a price. Her initiative with local cultural heritage led to the eventual establishment of the Sirogojno Open Air Museum.
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  • To Zjabljak and Durmitor NP

    20 сентября 2022 г., Черногория ⋅ ☀️ 2 °C

    We leave Virpazar and drive via the Moraca Gorge to the 13th century Orthodox monastery at Moraca (dedicated to the Assumptionof Mary); originally Serbian, it has been rebuilt . There is also a minor Chapel dedicated to St Nicholas.

    We then drive to the impressive concrete arch Djurdjevica Bridge spanning the gorge over the Tara River; this is the deepest gorge in Europe at 1300 metres deep and the second deepest gorge in the world (after the Grand Canyon). Ziplining is also very popular here now.

    We then head towards Zabljak, a town lying amongst the towering peaks, and close to the Durmitor National Park (a UNESCO World Heritage Site). Here we walk round the Black Lake (both the Big Lake and the Small Lake, separated by a narrow strait that dries up in the Summer); it was 6.5 km, and quite challenging at times but well worth the effort.

    Another lovely meal followed later.
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  • To Virpazar and Lake Skadar NP

    19 сентября 2022 г., Черногория ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We leave Budva and stop at Sveti Stefan; this tiny island is connected to the shore by a narrow isthmus and was once a luxurious tourist resort - it is now closed.

    We drive to the small town of Virpazar, the gateway to the Lake Skadar National Park. We have a quick walk round and see the town monument before walking up to Besac Fortress - this has now been converted to a wine museum and restaurant. There are great views of the lake from here and we come down again in a golf cart!

    Lake Skadar is the largest lake in the Balkans; it is 44 km long and some of it is in Albania. We explore it on a boat trip; it is extremely pretty, with meadows of lilies, views of monasteries, birds etc.

    Later that evening, we enjoy an excellent dinner at Hotel Pelikan.
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  • Budva

    19 сентября 2022 г., Черногория ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    This beautiful town has grown to become the focal point of the Montenegran Riviera, a 35 km strip of the Adriatic coast, but the Old Town and the beaches still retain their charm.

    We explore the Old Town, a mini Dubrovnik with marbled streets and Venetian walls, which has been rebuilt after two earthquakes in 1979. We visit the churches and the Citadel before strolling off to the beach and a paddle.Читать далее

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