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Andrew's Travels
Andrew's Travels

Andrew's Travels

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  • Andrew's TravelsHertfordshireTraveler

    Barley and Barkway Circular

    February 22, 2021 in England ⛅ 10 °C

    It is a short drive to Barley from Duxford; Barley is now in the north corner of the county of Hertfordshire; the Prime Meridian passes close to Barley. A well known landmark in the village is the sign of The Fox and Hounds public house; another interesting sign is on a building which used to be a blacksmiths and was then used to repair vintage cars.

    After parking, we walk to the War Memorial and follow the footpath and then road towards Smith End Farm. Here we cut across fields to the B1039 Barkway road; after a short walk along this we take the path across a paddock and then along a copse down to a lane. Further on, as we enter a field we see a large dead tree - it is still magnificent. This whole area is the Newsells Park Stud Farm and we bypass the entrance drive to this 1,200 acre estate which has "an international reputation for raising, selling and racing thoroughbreds of the highest class". We proceed down a bridleway and enjoy views of some of the horses grazing in the fields with the RAF Barkway Mast in the background; a little further on, looking back, we see an obelisk on the estate grounds - this was "erected by Sir Hugh Rose, later Lord Strathnairn, in memory of his favourite charger, which had carried him well during the Indian Mutiny."

    We reach Barkway and walk down the High Street, part of the old London to Cambridge coaching route (see post for Barkway and Reed Loop)..

    At the end of the village we take the footpath past Earl's Wood and eventually reach Messop's Grove, another wood on the way back to Barley; there is a long track to the village and there are good views - including that of the windmill at Great Chishill, one of only seven open trestle postmills in the UK.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsEssexTraveler

    Audley End - round the outside

    February 12, 2021 in England ⛅ -1 °C

    We start from the end of Abbey Lane in Saffron Walden (where the Almhouses and Repell Ditch can be seen; see Saffron Walden - Town and Gardens), walk by the banks of The Slade, a tributary of the River Cam, and then along the perimeter of the Saffron Walden golf club course. Our footpath route cuts across the Audley End Grounds and joins a farm road passing behind the Tea House Bridge (see Audley End - Grounds) to the B1383 Littlebury to Newport road. We go down here and enjoy excellent views of both Audley End House and its stable block / exhibition centre. On the other side of the road we see the Ring Hill Temple, a circular stuccoed building with a leaded dome and a colonnade of 12 Ionic columns.

    We then walk along the front of Audley End seeing the arch of the Lion Gate - this is the main entrance to the estate - and divert through tiny Audley End village itself; this was once the medieval village of Brookwalden and housed the workers at Walden Abbey and is literally a short row of small houses. We see Saint Mark's College - this was built on the site of almshouses that were attached to a hospital (part of Walden Abbey), but is now a residential youth and conference centre.

    We double back and then continue uphill outside the boundary walls before turning to cross the estate back to where we started earlier; as we descend we see an obelisk in the distance. This is a commemorative column dedicated to the memory of Elizabeth, Countess of Portsmouth; she left the estate to the first Lord Braybrooke back in the 18th century and it was he who had the garden and grounds laid out by Capability Brown.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsDuxford and Local WalksTraveler

    Local Walk 4 - Sawston

    January 25, 2021 in England ☀️ 0 °C

    It is convenient for us to start at Whittlesford Lawns and from here we proceed down Church Lane to the Church (see Local Walk 2); we take the footpath to Sawston from here this time.  Along the way we can see the site of the old Spicers Paper Mill; paper / printing has been one of Sawston's two major industries over the last 200 years (the other is Leather, see later) and what we see is topical as Chinese IT giant Huawei has now acquired this site and has plans for a new £1 billion research and development centre here....  

    We cross the railway line and A1301 before walking along the roads of the north part of Sawston; there has been substantial development in Sawston since the end of the Second World War and, more recently, a number of large housing estates have been constructed. We pass Sawston Village College; this was the first ever village college to be built in the UK and was an idea conceived by Henry Morris in 1930 as a regional centre combining school, adult education and social/cultural needs (our daughter was a pupil here). Next to it is the Marven Centre, used by various local organisations and as Sawston Cinema, and Sawston Community Hub.

    We walk down the High Street to a road junction with War Memorial with the 15 foot tall Sawston Giraffe behind it; this was carved from an old tree by a local tree surgeon. Nearby is the Mary Challis House and Garden; part of the Challis Trust, it was left to the people of Sawston for them enjoy and is manned by volunteers - the Victorian Gardens there are beautiful and well worth a visit when open. We walk up Church Lane to see Saint Mary's Church and the iron gates of Sawston Hall, a privately owned Grade 1 listed Tudor manor house whose whole estate is screened off by trees; I have never seen it at all in all my years in the area! 

    We head further up the High Street to Tannery Road, named from Sawston's former second major industry (Leather); from here you can see the outsides of the Hutchings & Hardings Tannery - the company is now a leading chamois manufacturer.  The whole site is now Grade 2 listed, but many of the buildings are in a perilous state; English Heritage and  the Industrial Buildings Preservation Trust have both declined interest and the local district council is now considering the use of this part of the green belt for housing.....

    We double back to the footpath opposite Prince William Way and take this to reach the A1301 again; we cross this and the railway line before heading back to Whittlesford via Whittlesford Mill - this is now the Hamilton Kerr Institute, a department of the Fitzwilliam Museum in Cambridge.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsEssexTraveler

    Saffron Walden - Town and Gardens

    January 22, 2021 in England ☀️ 5 °C

    What is now Saffron Walden had a Medieval Town Ditch surrounding it originally; this was an early 13th century earthwork possibly marking the settlement boundary (it was later called the Repell or Battle Ditch), and all that is visible today is a short section on the south-west of the town close to the edge of the Audley End Estate.

    Nearby are the King Edward VI Almshouses; as a result of one of his acts, the Almshouse lands and estate were devolved to the King but he agreed to return them to the town in his name - and so they have continued (and other units have been added since).

    Further into the town - from the top of Gold Street - there is an excellent view of the parish church of St Mary The Virgin; this is the largest church in Essex and has the saffron crocus as its emblem.

    On the other side of the small town centre are the lovely Bridge End Gardens; these comprise seven interlinked ornamental gardens and a hedge maze (there is also a turf maze on Saffron Walden Common). The Dutch Garden is considered the most important of the seven and is entered via a gate with two eagles sitting on it; there is a lovely fountain at the centre of this garden. The Bridge End Gardens are a really pleasant diversion whenever one visits Saffron Walden.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsDuxford and Local WalksTraveler

    Local walk 3 - Whittlesford

    January 19, 2021 in England ☁️ 9 °C

    Another well walked route is that to Whittlesford Parkway railway station on the other side of the A505 to Duxford.  Adjacent to the station is the Red Lion Hotel (see Lost Pubs of Duxford) and next to this is Duxford Chapel; this is now part of Whittlesford Parish due to the boundary change in 2010.  Built in the 14th century, the chapel was once part of the Hospital of St. John the Baptist and is a Grade II listed building, a scheduled ancient monument and under the guardianship of English Heritage.

    On this occasion, we walk up the Duxford Road to Whittlesford village and pass the play park and Whittlesford Lawns before proceeding down Church Lane to the attractive St Mary and St Andrew's Church.  Doubling back we pass the Guildhall, now a private residence, and see The Tickell Arms which has an interesting past; named after the Tickell family, formerly lords of the manor, the proprietor when I first visited the pub in the mid 1980s was Squire Kim Tickell who famously banned all “loony lefties, collarless shirt wearers, and women playing with candle wax” from there.  I have tried to visit at that time with people who were not allowed entry!  Things have changed now and the pub has become part of the Cambscuisine Group;  the beer and food are still good (we ate there during the Summer).  We walk down the High Street and down part of West End to Vicarage Lane and then cross fields, before diverting to see the other pub in the village, The Bees in the Wall; this is a free house that changed its name after a colony of bees took up residence in the wall.  Another good pub - I used to go to folk music sessions there back in the day.  We double back and walk past the allotments and take the footpath around Middle Moor; we pass close to the M11 and enjoy the view of an unpaved aircraft landing strip at Westside Farm, where there is also a shooting school and fishery, before returning into Whittlesford.

    We proceed back up the other part of West End and then turn left to take the path back to Duxford; the fields are heavily furrowed where the farmer has harvested sugar beet, leaving them in piles to dry.  We cross back over the A505 and are rewarded with a lovely view of Duxford before walking back through the village and home.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsDuxford and Local WalksTraveler

    Local walk 2 - Ickleton

    January 12, 2021 in England ☁️ 4 °C

    After leaving the permissive footpath of the Hinxton Hall grounds, we cross back over the railway line (Cambridge to Liverpool Street) and enter Ickleton.
    We walk up Mill Lane past the Social Centre and on to the large St Mary Magdalene Church which is opposite a small village green with a war memorial; the church has a Tudor Sanctus bell near the top of the spire . There are several attractive old manor houses in the village, for example Brays (now Norman Hall) and Hovells, as well as a nice pub (the Ickleton Lion); there is also a lovely view across a paddock.

    At the junction with Butcher's Hill - just next to Caldree's Manor (a Grade II listed building with fine gardens) - we walk up the hill and turn on the footpath back to Duxford through more paddocks, enjoy a good view of the church from behind and pass its Cemetery Chapel. We see the former Ickleton tower mill, converted to a private house in 1925, and cross the fields back to Duxford.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsDuxford and Local WalksTraveler

    Local walk 1 - Hinxton

    January 12, 2021 in England ☁️ 4 °C

    Helen and I both enjoy walking and we have a "default" route from the house; this circular walk goes via the nearby villages of Hinxton and Ickleton (Duxford, Hinxton and Ickleton form the combined parish of Hinkledux). The walk is approx. 4 miles long in total and this post covers the Hinxton section.

    From St Peter's Church we walk around the back Duxford, cross the railway line (Cambridge to Liverpool Street) and carry on to Hinxton Ford; this is where the principal tributary of the River Cam** crosses the road between Duxford and Hinxton villages - cars and even lorries have been known to get stuck here!
    There is a path along the river bank which passes by Hinxton Mill; this opens for visitors several times a year and is now owned by Cambridge Past, Present and Future. There is a bridge over the water further along and we have a look at Hinxton; there are many old houses, the medieval St Mary and St John Church and a fine pub (the Red Lion).

    At the end of the village is access to Hinxton Hall and its estate; the grounds and hall itself have been occupied by the Wellcome Trust Genome Campus since 1992 and walkers are allowed use of a path that skirts part of the perimeter on a route to Ickleton. It is possible to see Hinxton Hall along this path, but you have to try hard.

    From here you can double back along the river - where there are lovely views of Hinxton village itself - and return to Duxford or carry on to Ickleton.

    ** This tributary (sometimes known as the Granta) has its source at Debden and winds its way up through Newport and Audley End, our local villages (Great Chesterford, Ickleton, Hinxton, Duxford, Whittlesford), joins the River Cam at Hauxton and then flows via Granchester Meadows to Cambridge and along the picturesque Backs; the Cam has its confluence with the Great Ouse just south of Ely. The Great Ouse itself flows into The Wash at Kings Lynn.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsDuxford and Local WalksTraveler

    Duxford Village 3

    January 11, 2021 in England ⛅ 4 °C

    Duxford Community Centre has been several years in the planning and finally opened in Summer 2020 - during the middle of the Covid pandemic!  It is located next to the Duxford United FC football pich and close to the Bowls Club (of which I am a member), the Tennis Courts (now with floodlighting), the childrens play area and the Duxford School.  It will be a wonderful facility when open properly and the pandemic is over.

    Strolling past this up Hunt's Road, we reach the modern village signpost on the corner opposite Brewery Field - this is a small park and green space that will be developed as a wildlife haven and recreation area.

    Proceeding down St. John's Street and via Green Street, we reach Chapel Street and pass the amusingly named Fluck Hall - this is where the original Village Hall was sited and has now been developed as a private residence by the son of Peter Fluck.  Peter was one half of the partnership known as Luck and Flaw (with Roger Law) - creators of the popular satirical TV puppet show Spitting Image - and used to live in Duxford in the house next door to the Village Hall.

    Finally, we reach The Biggen; this is a hidden site next to St Peter’s Church beside the river and scheduled as an ancient monument to protect it when the bungalows of the Biggen were being built - it was originally the site of an old manor house.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsEssexTraveler

    Audley End - Grounds

    December 6, 2020 in England ⛅ 2 °C

    Having joined English Heritage when we visited Stonehenge in October, Helen and I decided to visit our local EH site having secured a booking; the weather did not go to plan though, as it was freezing all the time we were there.

    Audley End was the site of Walden Abbey, it developed over several rebuilds into one of the finest Jacobean country houses in England; now one-third of its original size, but still very large, there is much to see here - both internally and externally.

    Much of the the Gardens and Grounds were laid out by the landscape gardener Lancelot "Capability" Brown and they are divided by the River Cam (or Granta) which can be crossed here by several bridges. Behind the house is the parterre garden, an ornamental garden with paths between the beds; we explore this and then walk up to the Temple of Concord, a folly in the Eastern part of the grounds.

    Walking back we pass the Place Pond and then proceed to the Victorian Stable Block and Yard, through the Organic Kitchen Garden and via the Vine House and Pond Garden to the Elysian Garden, with its beautiful Tea House Bridge over the River Cam, its cascade and huge London plane tree. On the way back to the house we stop and see the Polish Special Operations Executive (SOE) War Memorial, unveiled in June 1983.

    A lovely day and we will be back in the Spring for sure....    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsCambridgeshire; Cambridge CityTraveler

    Fantastic beasts and where to find them

    November 19, 2020 in England 🌧 8 °C

    The idea for this post came from Atlas Obscura (thanks Ant) - an online catalogue of unusual / obscure travel destinations - and its entries for Cambridge.
     
    Perusing this, I saw the entry for "Reality Checkpoint"; this is a large cast-iron lamppost with intertwined, wide-eyed dolphins on its base, and is situated in the middle of Parker's Piece at the intersection of the park's diagonal paths. I have walked past this many, many times and never really clocked it! I had to go and see it - check the Atlas Obscura entry on-line or Wikipedia for the theories regarding its curious name.... 

    I also saw in Atlas Obscura the entry for the Corpus Clock and Chronophage ("time eater") which overlooks King's Parade at the junction with Bene't Street.  It features a large, toothed grasshopper devouring time and is particularly interesting on the hour and at night; I have seen and photographed this before.

    So, what other beasts are on display in Cambridge?
     
    From the University's perspective, the Great Gate of St John's College features mythical beasts called yales - these have elephants' tails, antelopes' bodies and goats' heads, with horns which can, supposedly, swivel from back to front.  Heading from here to Downing Street, we reach the University Museum of Zoology and see an excellent display showing the diversity of animal life.
     
    Shopping at Scotsdales Garden Centre along Cambridge Road is also interesting; you never know what you might see lurking in the undergrowth surrounding the displays.....
         Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsCambridgeshire; Cambridge CityTraveler

    A place of springs, cliffs and lakes

    November 17, 2020 in England ☁️ 12 °C

    Who would have thought that the beautiful university city of Cambridge would contain these geographical features within its boundaries?  The idea for this post came from Cambridge Critique, an occasional email on the local cultural scene, describing some local hidden delights; visiting these made for a really enjoyable few hours out and about.
     
    Springs
    Nine Wells is a small area of woodland and nature reserve close to Addenbrooke's Hospital; concealed within the trees are four natural springheads.  Hobson's Conduit was constructed in 1610 to bring water from here to the city in order to sanitise the open sewers and to provide water for the population (see Cambridge Urban Ramble, part 3); water continues to flow into Cambridge to this day.  It is a lovely place to walk around and there is also a monument to Hobson's Conduit here.
     
    Cliffs
    It is short drive from Nine Wells to Cherry Hinton, where hidden between Fulbourn Road and Limekiln Road are the Cherry Hinton Chalk Pits - a 12 hectare site.  It was astonishing to see this for the first time after many, many years of living in the Cambridge area!  It is possible to discern coloured strata in the rocks, showing the levels of ancient seas that used to cover Eastern England.
     
    Lakes
    A couple of miles away close to where Mill Road meets Brooks Road is access to a walk that runs alongside a clear chalk stream known as Cherry Hinton Brook; it is called "Snakey Path" and it was another first for me - the walk passes several designated City Wildlife Sites.  Concealed behind a fence and trees are two old chalk pits that have been filled to form private fishing lakes.  Occasionally there are some wonderful views across these impressive stretches of water.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsRoots - where I grew upTraveler

    Dartford, part 3; The Rolling Stones

    November 2, 2020 in England ⛅ 13 °C

    It is well documented that Keith Richards and Mick Jagger were brought up in Dartford; they went to the same infants school, but different secondary schools, before being reunited on platform 2 of Dartford Railway Station - Mick was carrying blues records and they got chatting.  The rest is history!

    As a young child, Mick lived in Denver Road, attending Wentworth Primary School before moving on to Wilmington, near Dartford, where he was brought up as a teenager; the current owners of thease two properties apparently do not want signs there.  As a young child, Keith lived round the corner to Mick along Chastilian Road in a flat above what was a greengrocer's and went to Wentworth Primary School as well, before moving to Spielman Road on Temple Hill; these two properties have a blue plaque and a sign, respectively, to celebrate Keith's residency in them.

    Whereas Keith went to Dartford Tech, Mick went to Dartford Grammar School; the Mick Jagger Centre is a performing arts venue on the grounds of the school and was opened in March 2000.  Mick is also present in the town as a life-size sculpture by a commemorative bench in Dartford Central Park; he is joined there by sculptures of two other memorable sound makers from Dartford - a Vox amplifier, invented in the town in the 1950s, and a Dartford warbler, first spotted on nearby Dartford Heath.  The first Vox amplifier was made along Dartford Road, which is en route to Crayford, and there is a plaque outside the building to commemorate this; Vox amplifiers were used a lot by top British bands in the 1960s including the Shadows, the Beatles and the Yardbirds.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsRoots - where I grew upTraveler

    Dartford, part 2; historic town centre

    November 2, 2020 in England ⛅ 13 °C

    The Romans paved over an ancient Celtic trackway as part of their main Dover to London road and crossed the River Darent by ford (hence the name Dartford).

    We start on the far side of the River Darent, a tributary of the Thames (see London LOOP post), having crossed the bridge here to view the Holy Trinity Church. We cross back over the bridge onto the High Street to see the other side of the church, which is close to the Wat Tyler pub. Wat Tyler is famous for having been a leader of the Kentish part of the 1381 Peasants Revolt, basically an uprising about workers rights. Close by, on One Bell Corner, is a large mural entitled 'One Town That Changed The World" celebrating "the pioneering industrial heritage of Dartford".

    The Royal Victoria and Bull Hotel is Dartford's oldest inn and pilgrims were able to stay here (as well as that originally on One Bell Corner) in medieval times on The Pilgrim's Way to Canterbury and beyond; the inn was rebuilt in 1703 with a gallery overlooking the yard and these both are still visible today (albeit covered now).

    A short walk away is Dartford Priory, England's only Dominican Convent. Founded in 1346, the Dissolution of the Monasteries led to Henry VIII replacing it with a Manor House, of which only the Gatehouse survives.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsRoots - where I grew upTraveler

    Dartford, part 1; school and other

    November 2, 2020 in England 🌬 15 °C

    Born in Erith and raised in Slade Green, but Dartford is where I spent my formative years as this where I went to secondary school; I passed the 11+ exam and went to Dartford Grammar School, DGS (my mum went to DGS for Girls round the corner) - famous alumni from DGS include Mick Jagger (see subsequent post). Although the school was founded in 1576,, the school house dates from 1864; this is where the sixth formers used to hang out at breaks etc and play the music of the day (prog rock and rock in our case). The school motto "ora et labora" means "pray and work" which I have only just found out from Google; I honestly thought it meant "play and work" - a maxim I have adhered to during my life, although not as a result of it being the school motto (which I thought it was!)

    My grandad lived with us in Slade Green for several years in the late 1960s and used to come to Dartford to go to The Malt Shovel pub to read his paper and drink real ale in the wood panelled tap bar there; unfortunately, the pub was closed when I visited on a Monday, but I have been there many times previously. It was, and still is, a Youngs pub and grandad and my uncle (his son, mum's brother) got me into real ale and I have been drinking it all my life.

    Some parts of Dartford have been modernised beyond recognition but other parts are still as they were; not far from the railway station, the Orchard Theatre has a modern clock tower by it and on the other side of town - passing through the historic centre (see next post) - we have the 1916 Dartford Central Library and Museum on the edge of Central Park.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsWiltshireTraveler

    Westbury White Horse and Avebury Henge

    October 19, 2020 in England ☁️ 9 °C

    Wiltshire is well known for its White Horse hill figures and they have become a symbol of the county. The origins of such hill figures are obscure and of the original 13 only 8 now survive; the Westbury White Horse is the oldest and is carved on to a chalk escarpment on the Salisbury Plain. Hill figures lose their shape over time due to growth of vegetation etc and maintenance is necessary; indeed, in the 1950s, the Westbury White Horse was concreted over by the local council! We viewed both from afar and close up on the short walk above it.

    Next stop is the Avebury World Heritage Site, to see the the Stone Circle. This is a Neolithic henge monument comprising a bank and ditch surrounding a roughly circular flat area; inside this particular henge are two small stone circles within a much larger stone circle - with a diameter of 330m, this is the largest megalithic stone circle in the world. Once again the original purpose is unknown, but construction is thought to have been around 2,600 BC. We enjoy our walk around the entire stone circle; it originally comprised about 100 stones - many are not there now and part of the circle now includes a corner of Avebury village. Another stunning site and a good way to end this visit to Wiltshire.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsWiltshireTraveler

    Stonehenge

    October 18, 2020 in England ☁️ 9 °C

    Stonehenge is a prehistoric monument comprising a ring of standing stones set within an earthworks. It evolved in several construction phases, with the third phase being when the iconic Stone Circle was erected using bluestone and sarsen stone (3,000 - 2,200 BC). It was probably constructed for religious ceremonies.

    The entrance to the Stone Circle is where the four vertical stones with three horizontal stones stand. We walk around taking many photos, but they all look quite similar! It is a truly wonderful place to visit.

    Before visiting the Stone Circle, there is an interesting exhibition and the chance to see reconstructed Neolithic houses where the locals lived. On the walk to the Stone Circle we see the Stonehenge Cursus, a 3km ditch built several hundreds of years before, and the cursus barrows, a barrow cemetery.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsWiltshireTraveler

    Old Sarum

    October 18, 2020 in England ☁️ 10 °C

    Old Sarum was originally an Iron Age Hillfort, built around 400 BC at the intersection of two trade paths, before becoming a Roman and then a Saxon settlement. William the Conqueror used the site to build a Motte and Bailey castle and a cathedral, and King Henry I added a royal palace. The city declined due to a lack of water and being windswept and subsequent arguments between soldiers and clergy, and a new cathedral was built on the Salisbury Plain - the city of New Sarum, or Salisbury as it became, was established.

    It was interesting to walk over the outer bailey, cross the ditch where the drawbridge would have been and go up to the inner bailey where the palace and castle are situated; the remains of the original cathedral are behind, on the outer bailey.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsWiltshireTraveler

    Salisbury, part 3; The Cathedral

    October 17, 2020 in England ☁️ 12 °C

    Salisbury Cathedral is incredible; it has the tallest spire in the UK (404 feet), as well as the largest cloister and cathedral close. The original site was at Old Sarum, but bad relations between clergy and military led to relocation further south on the Salisbury Plain; building started in 1220. The Cathedral clock (1386) is the oldest in the world and the large font (2008) has reflections.

    The Cathedral is also famous for having the best preserved of the four remaining Magna Carta documents; a replica of this is housed between the magnificent nave and choir - the original, which we saw in the Chapter House, cannot be photographed. The Magna Carta was a Royal Charter of Rights agreed by King John and signed at Runnymede, near Windsor, in 1215 to make peace with rebel barons; it is still cited today as a statement of personal liberty.

    After the truly amazing experience of seeing an original,Magna Carta document, we exit tbe Cathedral via the cloister.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsWiltshireTraveler

    Salisbury, part 2; Water Meadows

    October 17, 2020 in England ☁️ 10 °C

    We leave the town centre via the High Street Gate and enter the beautiful Cathedral Close area; Mompresson House is closed due to the pandemic and the Cathedral itself well deserves a separate post, but it is a great place to see. Ted Heath used to live in the Close at Arundells; this was also closed and both the Rifles Museum and the Salisbury Museum did not appeal after the Cathedral visit (will see next time).

    We cross over the Cathedral green, look at Bishop's Walk and proceed to Churchill Gardens on the River Avon. Then up the Harnham Road to cross the green there back to the Avon to the 16th century Old Mill, now a hotel. This marks the start of the path across the Water Meadows, with its iconic views of the Cathedral. We are reminded of the equally iconic view of King's Chapel Cambridge with cows grazing in front of it.

    It has been a busy day and we relax with excellent beer at The Haunch of Venison later. This pub has "a nationally important historic interior as the main bar, the Commons, is timber panelled and has a rare zinc topped bar" (a quote from Camra - I'm a member of the Campaign for Real Ale).    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsWiltshireTraveler

    Salisbury, part 1; Town Centre

    October 17, 2020 in England ⛅ 9 °C

    We walk in via the Queen Elizabeth Gardens and turn into Fisherton Street, noting Salisbury Clock Tower, and reach the Poultry Cross; behind are some beautiful old buildings, including The Haunch of Venison pub.....

    We arrive at the large Market Place and see the Salisbury Guildhall. Close by is the lovely St Thomas Church which contains the oldest Doom painting in the UK; these show the Last Judgement and depict, amongst other things, people being sent to Hell.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsDorsetTraveler

    Kingston Lacy

    October 16, 2020 in England ⛅ 9 °C

    Following the "slighting" of Corfe Castle after the English Civil War, Dame Mary Bankes and family relocated to Kingston Lacy country house and estate. The original house has been extensively altered by subsequent generations of Bankes's and is now reimagined as a Venetian Palace by William John Bankes in the late 19th century. The house, together with the entire Bankes estate (including Corfe Castle and Shell Bay), was bequeathed to the National Trust in 1981.

    We visit the house and see a statue of Mary with her sword of defiance and castle keys - they were returned to her and can be seen in the Salon here. We see the incredible Spanish Room. Next, we walk in the Formal Gardens, noting the Philae Obelisk shipped back from Upper Egypt. We stroll the 3 mile Woodland Trail and finish bsck at the lovely Japanese Garden.

    The Badbury Rings are a few minutes drive away by road, but still part of the Estate; they are the site of an Iron Age Hill Fort, with its ditches and ramparts, and there is much evidence of Bronze age barrows in the area. In the Roman era, several Roman roads converged here.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsDorsetTraveler

    Lulworth Castle and Worth Matravers

    October 15, 2020 in England ⛅ 13 °C

    Lulworth Castle was originally a hunting lodge on the Lulworth Estate built in the style of a fortified castle, but now houses a museum: access is via the converted stables. Next to the castle is St Mary's Chapel, a Catholic church built in the style of a Greek mausoleum; this was done so that it did not look like a church - it was the first Roman Catholic church to be built in England after the Reformation.

    The Square and Compass at Worth Matravers is an incredible pub; it only has a hatch for service (no bar!) and real ale and home pressed cider is served directly from the barrels. The pub has been in the same family since 1907 and we are put in the tap room, in which "a returning Victorian labourer would find nothing out of place" (according to my recent Camra Beer magazine) - it is a correct description, this is an extraordinary place.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsThe Jurassic CoastTraveler

    4. Kimmeridge Bay to Durdle Door

    October 15, 2020 in England ⛅ 9 °C

    Kimmeridge Bay, aka Purbeck Marine Wildlife Preserve, is renowned for fossils and is a site of Special Scientific Interest; it is semi-circular in shape with a wave cut platform and rock pools beneath the cliffs. Clavell Tower on the overlooking Hen Cliff was built as both an observatory and a folly.

    Next up is Lulworth Cove, one of the world's finest examples of a natural cove; the nearby Stair Hole, an infant cove, shows how it may have looked many thousands of years ago. Lulworth Cove has been shaped as a result of wave diffraction through the narrow, hard Purbeck entrance into the softer clays behind it which are bordered behind by hard greensand and chalk .

    We walk on to Durdle Door, a natural limestone arch; the same rock strata as Lulworth Cove have been folded 90 degrees. Wonderful!    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsThe Jurassic CoastTraveler

    3. Dancing Ledge to Chapman's Pool

    October 14, 2020 in England ⛅ 11 °C

    The walk from Dancing Ledge brings us first to Headbury Quarry, where an old cannon on the rocks is visible - it is from a ship wrecked in a storm in 1786 whilst on its way to India. Next, we pass Seacombe Cliff and reach Winspit, a disused quarry with caves that has been used as a TV setting for Blake's 7 and Dr Who. There are great views before and after Winspit; for the latter, we can see back to Anvil Point and its lighthouse.

    We reach St Aldhelm's Point, the most southerly part of the Isle of Purbeck peninsula, where is another National Coastwatch Institution look-out point. There is also a Radar Memorial and St Aldhelm's Chapel, a Norman Church rebuilt in the 19th century.

    There is a very steep descent followed by an ascent up Emmett's Hill before we enjoy a wonderful view of Chapman's Pool, a small cove below, and of Egmont Point; the Kimmeridge Ledges and Kimmeridge Bay are beyond.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsThe Jurassic CoastTraveler

    2. Swanage to Dancing Ledge

    October 13, 2020 in England ⛅ 10 °C

    We proceed through Swanage to Peveril Point - a promontory where there is a National Coastwatch Institution look out point manned by volunteers - and on further to Durlston Bay, a renowned site for fossils.

    The bay borders Durlston Country Park where Durlston Castle, originally built as a folly by George Burt on Durlston Head, is now the visitor centre. Burt also commissioned the Great Globe which is made from Purbeck Stone; at 3m diameter and 40 tons in weight, it is one of the largest stone spheres in the world. A little further on are the Tilly Whim Caves, originally quarries for the valuable Purbeck Stone; the "Purbeck Beds" extend from here to St Aldhem's Head. Now closed to tourists, the caves are a sanctuary for bats. Still within the grounds of the country park, we reach Anvil Point and its lighthouse.

    Leaving the park area and a couple of miles futher on is Dancing Ledge; this is a flat area of rock at the base of a small cliff that was also used for quarrying, since ships could come right up to the sheer edge due the depth of the water. There is a lot of rock climbing going on and the views are splendid.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsThe Jurassic CoastTraveler

    1. Old Harry Rocks to Swanage

    October 12, 2020 in England 🌧 12 °C

    We walk across high chalk grassland to reach the Old Harry Rocks; these mark the eastern end of the Jurassic Coast (a UNESCO world heritage site) which starts here and finishes at Orcombe Point, near Exmouth. The rocks are chalk and the original formation used to stretch as far as the Isle of Wight, linking up with The Needles there. They are really impressive, but you do not want to get too close to the edge of the steep cliff!

    Not far from here are the pointed chalk stacks known as The Pinnacles. We walk further, crossing the end of Ballard Down at Ballard Point and the start of the Purbeck Way, to reach the steep, but stepped, descent to New Swanage. From here we see Ballard Down behind beach groynes, which help intercept water flow and sediment movement.

    We have good views of Swanage as we enter it, noting the Wellington clock tower (originally built for London Bridge) and Swanage Pier in the distance, as well as beach huts closer by.    Read more

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