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The Jurassic Coast
  • Andrew's Travels

The Jurassic Coast

Walking the Jurassic Coast (a UNESCO world heritage site) from the Old Harry Rocks in Dorset to Orcombe Point, near Exmouth in Devon. Read more
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  • Trip start
    October 12, 2020
    Andrew's TravelsThe Jurassic CoastTraveler

    1. Old Harry Rocks to Swanage

    October 12, 2020 in England ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    We walk across high chalk grassland to reach the Old Harry Rocks; these mark the eastern end of the Jurassic Coast (a UNESCO world heritage site) which starts here and finishes at Orcombe Point, near Exmouth. The rocks are chalk and the original formation used to stretch as far as the Isle of Wight, linking up with The Needles there. They are really impressive, but you do not want to get too close to the edge of the steep cliff!

    Not far from here are the pointed chalk stacks known as The Pinnacles. We walk further, crossing the end of Ballard Down at Ballard Point and the start of the Purbeck Way, to reach the steep, but stepped, descent to New Swanage. From here we see Ballard Down behind beach groynes, which help intercept water flow and sediment movement.

    We have good views of Swanage as we enter it, noting the Wellington clock tower (originally built for London Bridge) and Swanage Pier in the distance, as well as beach huts closer by.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsThe Jurassic CoastTraveler

    2. Swanage to Dancing Ledge

    October 13, 2020 in England ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    We proceed through Swanage to Peveril Point - a promontory where there is a National Coastwatch Institution look out point manned by volunteers - and on further to Durlston Bay, a renowned site for fossils.

    The bay borders Durlston Country Park where Durlston Castle, originally built as a folly by George Burt on Durlston Head, is now the visitor centre. Burt also commissioned the Great Globe which is made from Purbeck Stone; at 3m diameter and 40 tons in weight, it is one of the largest stone spheres in the world. A little further on are the Tilly Whim Caves, originally quarries for the valuable Purbeck Stone; the "Purbeck Beds" extend from here to St Aldhem's Head. Now closed to tourists, the caves are a sanctuary for bats. Still within the grounds of the country park, we reach Anvil Point and its lighthouse.

    Leaving the park area and a couple of miles futher on is Dancing Ledge; this is a flat area of rock at the base of a small cliff that was also used for quarrying, since ships could come right up to the sheer edge due the depth of the water. There is a lot of rock climbing going on and the views are splendid.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsThe Jurassic CoastTraveler

    3. Dancing Ledge to Chapman's Pool

    October 14, 2020 in England ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    The walk from Dancing Ledge brings us first to Headbury Quarry, where an old cannon on the rocks is visible - it is from a ship wrecked in a storm in 1786 whilst on its way to India. Next, we pass Seacombe Cliff and reach Winspit, a disused quarry with caves that has been used as a TV setting for Blake's 7 and Dr Who. There are great views before and after Winspit; for the latter, we can see back to Anvil Point and its lighthouse.

    We reach St Aldhelm's Point, the most southerly part of the Isle of Purbeck peninsula, where is another National Coastwatch Institution look-out point. There is also a Radar Memorial and St Aldhelm's Chapel, a Norman Church rebuilt in the 19th century.

    There is a very steep descent followed by an ascent up Emmett's Hill before we enjoy a wonderful view of Chapman's Pool, a small cove below, and of Egmont Point; the Kimmeridge Ledges and Kimmeridge Bay are beyond.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsThe Jurassic CoastTraveler

    4. Kimmeridge Bay to Durdle Door

    October 15, 2020 in England ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Kimmeridge Bay, aka Purbeck Marine Wildlife Preserve, is renowned for fossils and is a site of Special Scientific Interest; it is semi-circular in shape with a wave cut platform and rock pools beneath the cliffs. Clavell Tower on the overlooking Hen Cliff was built as both an observatory and a folly.

    Next up is Lulworth Cove, one of the world's finest examples of a natural cove; the nearby Stair Hole, an infant cove, shows how it may have looked many thousands of years ago. Lulworth Cove has been shaped as a result of wave diffraction through the narrow, hard Purbeck entrance into the softer clays behind it which are bordered behind by hard greensand and chalk .

    We walk on to Durdle Door, a natural limestone arch; the same rock strata as Lulworth Cove have been folded 90 degrees. Wonderful!    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsThe Jurassic CoastTraveler
    1View across Weymouth Bay to the beach and Esplanade
    Fun fair / EsplanadeQueen Victoria Jubilee Clock / St Mary's ChurchWeymouth HarbourViews of some of the harbour buildingsNothe Fort from the old stone pier / Courtyard in the fort

    5. Weymouth

    June 21, 2021 in England ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Weymouth is a seaside town situated on a sheltered bay at the mouth of the River Wet halfway along the Jurassic Coast; built on weak rock, it has been protected by a barrier beach (Chesil Beach) and the limestone of the nearby Isle of Portland.

    Weymouth Beach faces Weymourh Bay and has a small fun fair on it; the Esplanade is full of Geogian Architecture and features the Queen Victoria Jubilee Clock. We walk through the town centre via the pedestran only St Mary's Street and cross the Tower Bridge to the southern part of town; this bridge can be raised to link the outer and inner harbours. The harbour was once used for cross channel ferries, but is now used for commercial fishing and private boats. We walk through Brewer's Quay, named for a converted Victorian brewery, to Nothe Fort; this is a historic sea fort built to protect the harbour, but is now a coastal museum.

    Our first visit to Weymouth and it has not disappointed.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsThe Jurassic CoastTraveler
    View of Chesil Beach and Portland Harbour / Edge of Tout Quarry
    Tout Quarry Park / Hearth Sculpture/ Window SculptureStill Falling / Boy Dog / Woman1Portland Bill lighthouse and visitor centreAround Portland BillPortland Castle

    6. The Isle of Portland

    June 21, 2021 in England ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    The Isle of Portland is a tied island linked to the mainland by a barrier beach (Chesil Beach); traffic moves between the two via a bridge over the Fleet Lagoon. Portland is split into two geological areas; Underhill, a steep escarpment of Portland Sand in the north, and Tophill, a shallow angle decline of Portland Stone to sea level at Portland Bill.

    We stop off at the Tout Quarry Nature Reserve and Quarry Park. It is an abandoned 40 acre stone quarry park with stunning views of Chesil Beach and Portland Harbour and also many sculptures made on the Portland stone blocks (including Anthony Gormley's "Still Falling)); Portland stone has been used for the construction of many famous buildings, including St Paul's Cathedral.

    Portland Bill is a narrow promontory where there have been many shipwrecks over the centuries; it is an important way point for coastal traffic and there have been lighthouses here since 1716 - the current lighthouse dates from 1906. Portland Bill is a popular tourist destination.

    We visit Portland Castle next; grandly named, it is a fan shaped artillery fort built by Henry VIII as part of his defence programme against France and the Holy Roman Empire.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsThe Jurassic CoastTraveler
    Chesil Beach and The Fleet from the Ridgeway
    On Chesil BeachSt Catherine's Chapel from the beachOn Chesil BeachView from Abbotsbury Subtropical GardensView of anti-tank blocks defence from Abbotsbury Subtropical Gardens

    7. Chesil Beach

    June 22, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Chesil Beach, aka Chesil Bank, has its name derived from the Old English word for gravel or shingle; it is a "barrier beach" and one of only 3 shingle beach structures in the UK. It is 18 miles long and runs from the Isle of Portland to West Bay. Behind it is a shallow, tidal lagoon formed from ice-age meltwater known as The Fleet which is home to many wading birds.

    We reach via the coastal road along the Ridgeway and enjoy good views. We walk for a while on the shingle beach and can see St Catherine's Chapel, originally part of the monastery in Abbotsbury, from here. Later on we enjoyed views of Chesil Beach, and some of the old coastal defenses, from a viewpoint at the Abbotsbury Subtropical Gardens (see next post).    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsThe Jurassic CoastTraveler
    View of East Cliff and West Cliff from West Bay harbour walls
    West Bay harbourHive BeachViews west and east from Hive BeachWest Bay harbour from East CliffOn the beach by East Cliff

    8. West Bay

    June 23, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    West Bay, also known as Bridport Harbour, is situated 1.5 miles south of Bridport at the mouth of the River Brit. It is a small town that developed as a result of rope and net trade from Bridport, but this declined and it then developed as a resort due to the (now disused) railway station there. It forms the western end of Chesil Beach which extends from Portland Bill 18 miles to the east and is famed for its towering, crumbling, golden cliffs - it was been used as the location for the TV series "Broadchuch" (which is excellent).

    We are staying in an apartment here and, after exploring the attractive town (harbour and harbour walls, church etc) set off on a circular walk to nearby Burton Bradstock. We skirt the Bridport and West Dorset Golf Couse and a static caravan / camping site (there are several of these in the area) to reach Burton, before heading down to Hive Beach for lunch. We walk back along the top of Burton Cliffs, then via Burton Freshwater (where the small River Bride meets the sea) and finally along the top of East Cliff back to West Bay to enjoy some local beer (Palmers, which is brewed in Bridport).    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsThe Jurassic CoastTraveler
    View of Thorncombe Beacon and Golden Cap from Eype Mouth / View from Thorncombe Beacon ascent back to West Bay
    View of Seatown and Golden Cap / View back to Ridge CilffView back to Seatown from Golden Cap ascent / The golden greensand rock that names Golden CapGolden CapCharmouth from Golden CapRemnants of St Gabriel's Chapel

    9. West Bay to Golden Cap

    June 23, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We leave West Bay via West Cliff, above the Esplanade; whereas the East Cliff is composed mainly of Bridport Sand, the West Cliff is composed mainly of the younger Frome Clay and has a much different look. We walk down to Eype Mouth and cross this to walk along the cliff face of Monarchs Way to Thorncombe Beacon. The path then goes along Doghouse Hill and descends down Ridge Cliff to Seatown.

    Seatown is a coastal hamlet just south of Chideock and Golden Cap - at 191m, the highest cliff on the south coast of England - is only one mile west. We walk up the steep slope to the the top of Golden Cap; it is named from the distinctive outcrop of golden greensand rock at the top of the cliff. There are great views at the top in both directions.

    We descend to St Gabriel's mouth and then double over the small river via the remnants of St Gabriel's Chapel; the old village of Stanton St Gabriel was situated here, but abandoned two centuries ago. We pass Langdon Wood on our way back to Seatown.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsThe Jurassic CoastTraveler
    Heritage Coast Centre / Ichthyosaur fossil
    Hunting for fossils on the beachI've found one! / Somebody else found theseBeach and cliff viewsView of Golden Cap to the EastView of Lyme Regis to the West

    10. Charmouth

    June 24, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    It is a short drive to the town of Charmouth and we visit the Heritage Coast Centre with its wonderful display of fossils found on the beach - including the Ichthyosaur which starred in the TV documentary "Attenborough and the Sea Dragon". Typical fossils found here are small, bullet shaped belemnites and small, spiral shaped ammonites; we explore the beach at low tide and search for them - with a little success....

    We enjoy good views from the beach of Golden Cap to the East and Lyme Regis to the West.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsThe Jurassic CoastTraveler
    Town Mill
    Marine ParadeView of harbour and town from the CobbThe Cobb from Langmoor and Lister Gardens / Iconic view of The Cobb?Gun CliffBroad Street

    11. Lyme Regis

    June 24, 2021 in England ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Lyme Regis - "the pearl of Dorset" - lies on Lyme Bay and is close to the border between Dorset and Devon; it is part of the Jurassic Coast and its beaches and Blue Lias cliffs are noted for fossils.

    We park at Woodmead Halls and a short stroll along the River Lym brings us to the Town Mill: this is a 1340 watermill and still works, thanks to being rescued by volunteers in the 1990s. We walk along the Marine Parade to Monmouth Beach and the East Cliff Beach for a cursory look for fossils. Next is The Cobb; this harbour wall dates originally from 1328 and is very famous due to John Fowles' "The French Lieutenant's Woman" - super views. We walk back along the parade to the "cultural quarter" comprising the Museum, Guildhall and Gun Cliff (home to the town's battery of defensive cannons from Elizabethan times).

    We pass St Michael's Church on our way to Broad Street, the heart of Lyme Regis with its many independent shops. We walk around the Langmoor and Lister Gardens; these are high up and there are great views of the Cobb from here. Then it is back via Sherborne Lane to the car park.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsThe Jurassic CoastTraveler
    "Abandon all hope, ye who enter here"
    Tree felling due to Ash diebackIntrepid walkersPinhay Rocks / Pinhay BayA wild landscapeMore rugged landscapeRemains of old pumping station / View of Charton BayDowlands Cliffs / Remains of a sheep washGoat Island landslip; View from / View ofView of Beer Head from Haven Cliff / View from Axe Cliff Golf Course

    12. Lyme Regis to Seaton

    April 2, 2022 in England ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    We walk along the seafront, past the Cobb, and up a very steep ascent to join the path along the Jurassic Coast. This takes us through the Undercliff National Nature Reserve, a 7 km wilderness area that contains rocks from the Triassic, Jurassic and Creataceous periods. The paths are difficult in places; it is like going back in time, seeing the ferns etc. There has been a lot of tree felling to manage Ash dieback. The thick forest means that there are only occasional views of the cliffs above and the sea below.

    This is a very active coastal area and there have been many landslips over the millenia that have shaped it. The most recent was in 1839 on Christmas Eve; a massive section of cliff slid seaward in an event known as the ‘Great Landslip’, causing a chasm to form behind the landslide block which is now known as Goat Island. We cross this and emerge onto fields and cross to a lane which leads to a path across a golf course. It is then a steep descent to the Axmouth Bridge over the River Ax and into Seaton.

    A very different experience to other parts of the Jurassic Coast walk.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsThe Jurassic CoastTraveler
    View of Seaton Wetlands
    Seaton HarbourSeaton BeachSeaton; Jubilee Clock Tower / Town Hall (now a theatre)Seaton; High Street / The Seaton LionSeaton; Views from Seaton Beach areaView from path to BeerBeer; Beach / View backBeer; St Michael's Church / Congregational Church

    13. Seaton and Beer

    April 2, 2022 in England ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Seaton is s small town and fishing harbour located at the mouth of the River Ax and facing onto Lyme Bay.

    We see the Seaton Wetlands in the distance - a freshwater grazing marsh comprising 3 local nature reserves - before passing the small harbour and walking along the seafront to the older part of town, the cultural quarter. Here we see the Jubilee Clock Tower (1887), the old Town Hall (now the Gateway theatre), the high Street and the Seaton Lion at the entrance to a shop (formerly a hotel). A short walk along the shingle beach and then it is up to the village of Beer.

    Beer is a pretty coastal village one mile west of Seaton; it grew up around a smugglers' cove and caves which were once used to store contraband goods (we were not able to visit the caves).    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsThe Jurassic CoastTraveler
    View from Beer Head
    Beer HeadHooken Cliffs / View backHooken CliffsBranscombe MourhPart of Branscombe / View ahead from Weston CliffWeston Plats; a linhay (storage hut) / old farming equipmentView from Higher Dunscombe Cliff / The FrogstoneView from Salcombe Hill / View east from Sidmouth Esplanade

    14. Beer Head to Sidmouth

    April 3, 2022 in England ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    We walk up to Beer Head, enjoying the lovely views both forward and back. Beer Head is a vertical-walled white chalk headland leading to the Hooken Cliffs, another undercliff walk along a huge landslip with the cliffs above us.

    We reach Branscombe Mouth, cross over to walk above the village of Branscombe and then walk along Weston Cliff to Weston Mouth. Up from here we stop to look around Weston Plats, a 19th century clifftop market garden area farmed by villagers from Brannscombe, on an undercliff where donkeys transported seaweed for fertiliser from the beaches and harvested crops back to the village.

    There is a steep ascent and then a walk along the Higher Dunscombe Cliff top and then more steep ascent up steps to reach the "Frogstone", placed here in 1965 by helicopter. We then walk through South Combe Farm and enjoy excellent views from Salcombe Hill before descending to Sidmouth, crossing a bridge over the River Sid to reach the Esplanade for a view back to the cliffs we have just come down.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsThe Jurassic CoastTraveler
    Sidmouth Esplanade looking East
    Sidmouth Esplanade looking WestSidmouth town centre - Old Fore StreetQuirky shopsSidmouth Parish ChurchClifton TerraceConnaught GardensSidmouth Town Beach (east) / Jacob's Ladder Beach (west)1Helen / AndrewThe Royal Glen Hotel

    15a. Sidmouth; Town

    April 4, 2022 in England ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    Sidmouth lies at the mouth of the River Sid in a valley between Salcombe Hill to the east and Peak Hill to the west, and is characterised by red-coloured rock cliffs; it is a gateway to the Jurassic Coast World Heritage Site.

    Sidmouth was a fashionable and popular Regency and Victorian resort and still has many Period buildings and a mile-long Georgian Esplanade; there are two beaches - Sidmouth town beach to the east and Jacob's Ladder beach to the west.

    We walk along the beautiful Esplanade and then into town to see Sidmouth Market (a building) and walk along Old Fore Street before doubling back to the Parish Church; the museum is closed, unfortunately. We head down to the Esplanade and walk the rest of this and then up Clifton Terrace; there are three fine thatched houses here decorated in "cottage orne" style. We carry on up the hill to reach Connaught Gardens, Sidmouth's showpiece public gardens, overlooking Jacob's Ladder Beach; they are lovely and the so-called Clocktower cafe occupies a former lime kiln. There are excellent views to both west and east from up here.

    We then walk back the edge of town up Glen Road past the magnificent Royal Glen Hotel; this was a former residence of the Duke of Kent, the father of Queen Victoria. Then it is along Glen Goyle, a secluded area, and Bickwell Valley, an impressive collection of fine detached houses in large gardens, before walking back to our holiday rental.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsThe Jurassic CoastTraveler
    The Toll House
    The Byes; a weir / view of River SidThe Byes; view of the River Sid / Margaret's MeadowThe Byes; view of FortescueSalcombe Regis; St Mary and St Peter's ChurchSalcombe Regis; an interesting front gardenThe Donkey SanctuaryThe Donkey Sanctuary

    15b. Sidmouth; Byes to Donkey Sanctuary

    April 5, 2022 in England ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    The Byes in Sidmouth is an attractive green corridor that follows the River Sid from Sidford, a small village on the outskirts of Sidmouth, to the sea at Sidmouth; there are footpaths, open fields and parkland here. The Donkey Sanctuary is a British charitable organisation devoted to the welfare of donkeys and is based a few miles outside of Sidmouth, near Trow.

    We start in Sidmouth at the picturesque Toll House on Waterloo Bridge that crosses the River Sid; it is actually a Grade II listed council home. Along the Byes we pass some weirs and explore Margaret's Meadow, before crossing the river to the village of Fortescue. It is then a steep climb through woods and across a field to reach the road for the descent to the village of Salcombe Regis; this is a tiny unspoilt village with a beautiful Norman Church and has a lovely churchyard. We then cross more fields to reach Slade House Farm, the home of The Donkey Sanctuary, home to over 500 donkeys and mules; it is interesting to walk round and see the animals.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsThe Jurassic CoastTraveler
    Salcombe Hill and Higher Dunscombe Cliff / High Peak
    Peak Hill / High Peak and the Picket Rocks1Ladram Bay and beyond / Sandstone Stacks at Ladram Bay1View back to Ladram Bay / Smallstones PointThe Otter Estuary Nature ReserveBudleigh Salterton; views from the beachView back to Budleigh Salterton / Straight PointLittleham Cove / View back to Straight Point from the High Land of OrcombeOrcombe Point: The GeoneedleOrcombe Rocks; Rodney Point / View from the beach

    16. Sidmouth to Orcombe Point

    April 7, 2022 in England ⋅ 🌬 8 °C

    We set off along Sidmouth Esplanade enjoying the view to the east (Salcombe Hill) and to the west (High Peak) before passing the outskirts of Connaught Gardens and starting the ascent up Peak Hill. We have a good view of the Big Picket Rock and Little Picket Rock as we follow the path up High Peak.

    There are spectacular views of Ladram Bay and its red sandstone stacks; we pass Smallstones Point and walk southwest along the coastal path past Brandy Head, a historic RAF Observation Post (now available as holiday accommodation). We reach the Otter Estuary Nature Reserve at the mouth of the River Otter - a saltmarsh and mudflat habitat - and loop up and down a short way to reach the outskirts of Budleigh Salterton and its pebble beach; it is a very attractive small town.

    We follow the cliff path and enjoy views back to Budleigh Salterton and Otterton Ledge and ahead to Straight Point, now an MOD area. We cross a large static caravan site to reach the High Land of Orcombe and Orcombe Point, the most westerly Point of the Jurassic Coast; this status is marked by the " Geoneedle", an obelisk monument unveiled in 2002 representing the variety of stone found along the Jurassic Coast.

    Walking the Jurassic Coast has been a fantastic experience. Click on the blue "The Jurassic Coast" link at the top this post to see the whole trip.    Read more

    Trip end
    April 7, 2022
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