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Patagonia Adventures
  • Andrew's Travels

Patagonia Adventures

Travelling from Santiago (Chile) down through Patagonia to Ushuaia and back up to Buenos Aires (both in Argentina) on an Oasis Overland trip. Lue lisää
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  • Andrew's TravelsPatagonia AdventuresMatkaaja
    Welcome to Ushuaia
    Artesan marketDon Bosco StreetViews up and down Don Bosco StreetAmrit

    Ushuaia

    1. joulukuuta 2023, Argentiina ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    We walked into town and managed to book tours (thanks, Ant) and had a quick look round, followed by a beer. It's a very interesting place.

    Back at the hostel, Amrit is offering the vodka..... pizza in oven, but it didn't go well (my fault).Lue lisää

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    Main station
    The trains usedViews en routeMacarena stationViews en route (Rio Pipo)The end of the road

    El Tren del Fin del Mundo

    2. joulukuuta 2023, Argentiina ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Ushuaia was originally founded as a prison town, with staff in the town and convicts in a prison outside of town; convicts were used to construct the railway from town to the prison. When the prison was closed, the railway went into disrepair, but it was repurposed as a major tourist attraction in 1994 - The Train to the End of the World.

    There are 3 trains per day and we are on the 9:30am departure. The station is really interesting and the trains are authentic. It is very slow, and there are beautiful views, with one stop en route (Macarena). At the end of the line, one hour later, we get off to have a walk in the National Park.    Lue lisää

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    Map of the accessible area of the National Park
    The Beagle ChannelPost Office at the end of the worldCoastal viewFungal growths / The footpathViews of Bahia LapatnaViews of Bahia LapatnaThe Ushuaia Dublin Irish pub

    Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego

    2. joulukuuta 2023, Argentiina ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    From the train stop, we walk down to the coastal path, where the Post Office at the End of the World is situated; many people send post cards from here, all over the world.

    Once again, there are beautiful views as we walk the 7km coastal path trail, up and down, to access the road and walk back. We are lucky with the weather and get back to the station in good time for the return journey at 4 pm - which is in the rain! Back in Ushuaia, the weather is good, and we stop for a beer - why not? We hook up with the youngsters at the Dublin Irish pub.......... It's been a great day out!

    Then it's back for eggs and toast (with red wine) at the hostel.    Lue lisää

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    Ushuaia
    Imperial CormorantsUshuaia lighthouseUshuaia lighthouseCormorants / South American Sea LionsSouth American Sea LionsSouth American Sea LionsMagellanic penguins

    The Beagle Channel

    3. joulukuuta 2023, Argentiina ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    We are on the Eduardo B catamaran long tour (6 hours) of the Beagle Channel from the port area of Ushuaia and hope to find penguins!

    Our first "stop" is to see Imperial Cormorants on a small island. A little later, it's the famous Ushuaia lighthouse; on the small islands nearby are Rock and Imperial Cormorants - and South American Sea Lions! Then, it is a 1.5 hour journey eastwards along the Beagle Channel to visit a penguin colony on a small island (Isla Martillo) close to Harberton.... En route, we pass Puerta Williams on our right (south), which is in Chile; the Beagle Channel is a border between Argentina and Chile. At one point, we pass through the narrowest part of the Beagle Channel (1 km wide), where the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans meet.

    Then, we find penguins! They are only found in the southern hemisphere, and seeing them in real life, in their natural habitat, was a wonderful experience.

    We are back in Ushuaia at 3 pm and have a walk round again before stopping off for beers and, later, something to eat; it's an early start tomorrow.    Lue lisää

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    Dinner on Sunday evening at Freddy's Restaurant; Centolla a la Cantina
    On the bus to Rio GallegosTypical views en route from Austral Broom to Rio GallegosOn the bus to Caleta OliviaHeading north from Rio GallegosSunset over the steppe as we head westOur bus from Rio Gallegos / Dawn in Caleta OliviaAlong the coast from Caleta Olivia/ Into Chubut provinceScrubland all the way to Puerto MadrynDinner on Tuesday evening; Abadejo en papillote

    En route to Puerto Madryn

    5.–6. jouluk. 2023, Argentiina ⋅ 🌬 29 °C

    We're going rogue and leaving the Oasis truck for a few days; why? The truck leaves Monday morning at 8am and has 3 nights bush camps, 2 nights camp site, and then 1 more bush camp to reach Buenos Aires next Sunday. By going independently on overnight buses, we can visit Puerto Madryn (the only place worth a visit on the long stretch between Ushuaia and BA, due to whale watching and exploring the Valdes peninsula) and then get to BA a couple of days earlier to do some sightseeing. Most people are flying between the two - only 5 are left on the truck journey to BA (the young girls, the old girls, and Nick)!

    After a nice meal at La Cantina Fueguina de Freddy last night, we set off a few hours later on our first bus at 3 am on Monday morning; the route we travel is from Ushuaia to Rio Gallegos, change bus for Caleta Olivia, then change again for Puerto Madryn due to srrive at 13:20 on Tuesday!

    Ftom Ushuaia, it's the same journey down here in reverse as far as the Austral Broom ferry crossing point over the Magellan Strait into Santa Cruz province, then it's northeast to Rio Gallegos; it's steppe and pampas to, and after the border crossing back into Argentina. We arrive in Rio Gallegos before 3 pm and do some shopping at the Carrefour next door for food, and chill out at the bus station, waiting for the 6 pm departure to Caleta Olivia. Ant does an excellent job of organising tickets for the Puerto Madryn to BA bus and hostel accommodation in the former.

    The flat steppe landscape continues as we head north through SantaCruz province; this is how it is for most of the journey. We're upstairs, and the screens show a bad movie and some episodes of "Heart of Stone" with poor sound (help!). There is a beautiful sunset as we drive west from Puerta Santa Cruz; then it's dark both outside and inside the bus, lights out. We arrive in Caleta Olivia at 4:30 am, and it is soon dawn - it's been a long day!

    We drive along the coast, but it gets more hilly for a while as we enter Chubut province, but then it's flat scrubland again, pretty much all the way. There were a couple of stops close to Puerto Madryn, where we arrived at 1:30 pm. Then it's to the hostel and out to investigate whale watching tours for tomorrow. It's all sorted, so it's time to eat and drink at Nautico Bistro de Mer Fish Restaurant; I had Abadejo en papillote (a fish stew served in silver foil).

    If you've got this far you'll realise we've spent almost 36 hours travelling! Shades of 1978 when Anthony and I travelled in North America together (45 years ago)!    Lue lisää

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    Puerto Madryn; view as we enter / the pier
    Along the promenade in Puerto MadrynPuerto Madryn bus station, formerly railway stationPuerto Piramides; Village symbol / Bottazzi Whale Watching OfficePuerto Piramides; The "water circuit" part of the village tourWhale watching; Off we go...My best efforts of the mother and baby whales...Official trip photo1Official trip photoOfficial trip photo

    Puerto Madryn; town and whale watching

    6. joulukuuta 2023, Argentiina ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Our walk round Puerto Madryn yesterday afternoon shows it to be a large town with a beach, pier, promenade, and all the trimmings. It is very pleasant.

    We've booked onto a Bottazzi whale watching tour for 10 am; all tours depart from Puerto Piramides on Peninsula Valdes, which means the 6:30 am bus! It is a 1.5 hours, 100 km journey into the National Park to get there. Puerto Piramides is a village and interesting; we enjoy something to eat and coffee before the trip. It is the end of the whale watching season, and the sea's a little rough, but we are hopeful... Other options on Peninsula Valdes include visiting a penguin colony, swimming with seals, seeing sea lions: maybe next time.....

    We saw a couple of seals and watched a whale or two briefly on the trip; it had to finish slightly earlier than expected due to the wind and the small port closing, calling the boat back. It's hard to get good pictures on a moving boat, so we purchase the trip image pack from the official photographer (sent by email). It's been a great experience, and we're glad we did it.

    Back in Puerto Madryn before 3 pm, we do some food shopping and chill out in the eating area of our hostel from last night (La Tosca). Then it's off to catch the 6:35 pm overnight bus to Buenos Aires.....    Lue lisää

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    Our bus
    Scrubland en route north from Puerto MadrynResto lo de Jose; the interesting wall decoration5 am at Bahia Blanca bus stationRural scenery in Buenos Aires provinceRural scenery in Buenos Aires provinceViews; approaching Las Flores / scenery back to normalBeersAnd a meal..... far too much

    En route to Buenos Aires

    7.–8. jouluk. 2023, Argentiina ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The El Condor bus leaves on time, and we have big single seats at the back of the top of the bus (downstairs is premium). It is National Route 3 for most of the way.

    It's scrubland again as we head north and to Rio Negro province; here, armed police check our passports. A little later, just as we have eaten our rolls, the bus stops at a small town, at Resto lo de Jose for food!

    It's a long night, and we are all herded off the bus at 4:30 am at Bahia Blanca bus station while the bus goes somewhere; to refuel and/or change crew. We are in Buenos Aires province now, heading north east, and the scenery is more rural. It is very misty and foggy at 6 am, but this clears as the sun rises. From 7am onwards, it is like driving in the English countryside in Springtime - trees, cows, and fields. Similar scenery continues up to Azul and beyond, but it starts to get a bit waterlogged and marshy as we head towards Las Flores and beyond. Work is happening on parts of Route 3, which means diversions onto other roads - and a later arrival in BA?

    Small towns and factories appear as we reach the outskirts of the capital of Argentina. Not surprisingly, there is lots of traffic as we get over the ring road and approach the first bus station the bus stops at (not ours). It's a big city, and it takes us ages to get to our destination, the third bus station in the Retiro district of the city centre, due to heavy traffic; then we set off to find our hostel for the next 5 nights!

    We find it and go out for beers and a meal... The restaurant is empty because it is early, but the food is excellent (recommended by the hostel).    Lue lisää

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    Milhouse Hostel
    National Congress is at one end of Avenida de MayoPalacio Barolo / Eva Peron is on the side of a building on Lima StreetCabildo Museum / Metropolitan CathedralPlaza de MayoPlaza de Mayo; Casa Rosada Presidential Palace at the other end of Avenida de MayoMinistry of Defence area (Puerto Madero barrio)San TelmoStreet art / The smallest house in Buenos AiresLazema Park

    Buenos Aires; Monserrat to La Boca

    8. joulukuuta 2023, Argentiina ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We're staying at the Milhouse Hostel, and it is rather nice, as well as being central (G-Adventures are staying here). Monserrat is the barrio that is effectively the centre of the city.

    We walk along Avenida de Mayo from one end to the other and see many interesting buildings along it (see picture captions) before heading off to La Boca via San Telmo.

    We walk through the barrio of San Telmo; it is the oldest barrio in Buenos Aires and has many interesting buildings; it is well known for its Sunday market (see separate post). We walk via Lazema Park to reach La Boca.    Lue lisää

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    Boca Juniors FCCaminitoTango dancersThe far end of La Boca

    Buenos Aires; La Boca

    8. joulukuuta 2023, Argentiina ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    The neighbourhood (barrio) of La Boca is one of the most colourful and popular areas to visit in Buenos Aires because it has the Caminito, a recently developed area which has been brought to life by a local artist. La Boca is mostly known, however, for being home to the Boca Juniors, one of the two largest football teams in Argentina.

    Our walk brings us the football stadium first and then on to Caminito, where we "see the sites" before reaching the river. It is an incredible place to visit.

    Then it is the long walk back to the hostel and some RnR before dinner.    Lue lisää

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    Art deco buildings en route
    El Ateneo; formerly a theatre, now a book storeIglesia del Pilar at Recoleta cemeteryRecoleta cemetery1Recoleta cemeteryMausoleum of Eva Peron, née DuarteFaculty of Law / The Bridge leading to itFlorales GeneralisTeatro Colon1The Obelisk on Avenida 9 de Julio at its junction with Avenida Corrientes

    Buenos Aires; Recoleta

    9. joulukuuta 2023, Argentiina ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today, we walk to and explore the barrio of Recoleta in the north part of Buenos Aires; it is a lovely area and well known for the Recoleta Cemetery and its majestic mausoleums (see picture captions for information and our route there and back to the centre).

    Afterwards, we stop off for a well-deserved beer or two and chill out during the afternoon; tonight, it is the Tango show at Porteno, close to the Obelisk....    Lue lisää

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    The Obelisk by night

    Buenos Aires; Porteno Tango Evening

    9. joulukuuta 2023, Argentiina ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Tango Porteno is on every evening and located close to the Teatro Colon and Obelisk.

    This was 42 USD well spent! It was a fantastic evening with a 3 course dinner (empanades, steak, dessert) and all the red wine you could drink; oh, and some wonderful dancing and music as well!

    Hopefully, the pictures can do the event some credit.....    Lue lisää

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    Street scenesSunday MarketThe Covered Market

    Buenos Aires; San Telmo

    10. joulukuuta 2023, Argentiina ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    It is President Inauguration Day, but we walk to the barrio of San Telmo; this is the oldest barrio in Buenos Aires and has many interesting buildings. It is well known for its Sunday street market, which we visit; there is also a covered market which is open daily.

    A good way to start the day!    Lue lisää

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    Over the river to Puerto Madero
    Fuente de las NereidasView of Puerto Madero from the Ecological ParkThe lagoonOver the bridge back to the other side of the riverSarmiento FrigatePuente de la Mujer

    Buenos Aires; Puerto Madero

    10. joulukuuta 2023, Argentiina ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    From San Telmo, we cross the River Plate and walk across to Puerto Madero; this is a revamped dockside area with fancy accommodation in new skyscrapers.

    We cross to the Ecological Park and walk along the edge of a lagoon with great views of this well developed barrio. Crossing back via another bridge adorned with large cranes, we see the Sarmiento Frigate and the Woman's Bridge (Puente de la Mujer) before walking back to the Plaza de Mayo - and the Inauguration crowds and celebrationsLue lisää

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    Casa Rosada, the Presidential Palace
    President Javier Milei on the screenNational CongressCrowds around the National CongressPalacio BaroloThe lobby represents HellView down the stairs / Andrew and DanteOutside view, from 17th floor, with lighthouse at the top / The building's outside coloursHeavenly view of the National Congress from the top, representing Paradise

    Buenos Aires; Avenida de Mayo

    10. joulukuuta 2023, Argentiina ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    It is Presidential Inauguration Day and we arrive at Plaza de Mayo on Avenida de Mayo and the Casa Rosada Presidential Palace; the crowds are watching screens showing what is going on at the National Congress (at the other end of Avenida de Mayo) - it is the inauguration of President Javier Milei.

    We walk up to the National Congress, it's heaving with people en route and there; we manage to sit outside at a bar and watch the thousands of people with their Argentina flags, shirts, etc. It is an interesting experience for us both; lots of loud music and celebrations. Eventually, the crowds go down to the Plaza de Mayo and the Presidential Palace; there is breathing space, and we can cross the road to go back to the hostel for RnR.

    After dinner, we go on a guided tour of the Palacio Barolo, also on the Avenida de Mayo. The construction of this 22 storey building in 1923 was inspired by Dante's Divine Comedy, a three part epic poem in 22 stanzas describing Dante's journey through the Divine realms of Hell, Purgatory, and Paradise; the lobby represents Hell, the 4 - 14th floors represent Purgatory, and the balconies on the 20th floor represent Paradise - there is also a lighthouse two storeys up via a narrow staircase, which we visited. It was a really interesting visit; I must read the poem sometime......    Lue lisää

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    Avenida Florida
    Galleria Guemes, Avenida FloridaAvenida FloridaGalerias Pacifico, Avenida FloridaGalerias Pacifico, Avenida FloridaGaleria del Caminante, Avenida FloridaRetiro; Plaza San MartinTorre Monumentale; View from Plaza San Martin/ View from top to Plaza San MartinTorre Monumentale; View East / View NorthOther views in Retiro; Kavenagh Building / Totem Pole

    Buenos Aires; Avenida Florida to Retiro

    11. joulukuuta 2023, Argentiina ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We are able to collect our luggage from the truck and are back by 10;30am; slightly stressful waiting for the timing, but a happy ending. It is the end of the trip with Oasis now....

    Ant and I do our own thing today for shopping reasons. I go out to Avenida Florida; down by the Casa Rosada, it is a pedestrian walkway lined with shops and posh malls (galerias). It's worth visiting in its own right, as there are some interesting sites.

    Avenida Florida ends at the Plaza San Martin in Retiro barrio, and I walk through this to reach the Torre Monumentale; it is possible to go up this and enjoy some lovely views, which I did. Retiro is where the main bus and train stations are located for Buenos Aires.    Lue lisää

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    The Nautical School of Manuel Belgrano
    Entrance to the restaurant areaViews both sides of the riverMuseum ship; The UruguayPuente de la MujerViews from Puente de la MujerBack of the Casa Rosada Presidential PalaceCelta bar / Plaza Asturias restaurant

    Buenos Aires; River Plate walk

    11. joulukuuta 2023, Argentiina ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    From Retiro, I walk to the River Plate, or as close as I can get to it, and follow the path. There are some great views, and an upmarket restaurant area along the sourh side; Puerto Madero is on the other side. I see a museum ship, The Uruguay, and the reach Puente de la Mujer and the Sarmiento Frigate (both seen from afar yesterday, from further up the river). I soon reach the area where the Casa Rosada is located and head back to the hostel.

    Combined with Avenida Florida, it has been a lovely circular walk (in the heat, unfortunately).

    Later on, we go out for beers at our favourite bar and a meal at a restaurant we have been to before - creatures of habit......

    It has been a fantastic trip to South America.    Lue lisää

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    Matkan lopetus
    13. joulukuuta 2023
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