• Ailsa G
mar – mag 2023

High seas, family, adventures

Ten weeks, thirteen countries, come with us...... Leggi altro
  • Inizio del viaggio
    17 marzo 2023

    The adventure begins

    25 febbraio 2023, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    This is a new blog site so I'm experimenting before we go - very much looking forward to our trip starting mid-March, we hope you'll come along for the ride. In the meantime we'll enjoy our own back yard!Leggi altro

  • Family time

    17 marzo 2023, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    17 March 2023, 36 degrees – Welcome to Sydney!

    Here we are in Ashfield, Sydney, with Jen, Vince, Oisìn and Flynn…….so happy to be here.

    Leaving home and closing up the house for ten weeks has been a bit daunting but Kate and Ian are keeping an eye on it. Chris and John delivered us to the airport and the adventure began on Friday morning 17 March.

    Auckland airport was an eye-opener, thank goodness our bags had been checked all the way through from Nelson to Sydney because it took us close to 90 minutes to go through from a line-up outside the shops and a very long queuing race just to be able to scan boarding passes, another queuing race to scan passports then finally through to the baggage x-rays where only one carousel was working so that was the cause of the bottleneck.

    And then they pulled Pete aside and went through his backpack with a fine-tooth comb, no doubt because of all his electrical cords and things! Either that or he just looked really suspicious?

    Qantas wasn’t too bad, a full flight, on time, they fed us. From the airport it was easy to get on the train to Central, then on to Ashfield. Vince picked us up at the train station and here we are!

    So this first week is family time, the real travel won’t start until we carry on to Singapore on Monday 27th so keep an eye out then. We had a great time on Saturday morning at a playground in the huge Olympic Park, wandered round the lake and saw giant carp and eels, a couple of pelicans. Pete’s nephew Gareth came for dinner and took a family photo, a hot day so bare tummies were the best thing for the boys.

    Sunday morning we were out early to Ashfield Aquatic Centre, all six of us in the water and the grandparents loved it, including in the little paddling pool with its sprinklers and fountains, great fun. In the afternoon it was off to a mall for an airconditioned playground experience, Jen and I were shoe-shopping when…………..EVACUATE, EVACUATE………..sirens and hooters………….EVACUATE!!! Vince could see the kebab shop with smoke billowing out and a hose stuck into the ovens! We went to the top floor and waited because the carpark was jammed, but then went down again and carried on playing and shopping – it was quite strange because some shops shut but most didn’t, the barber had kept on cutting hair, business as usual pretty much so we carried on, roasted only by the temperature outside when we got home. Thank goodness for aircon in the bedrooms of Jen and Vince’s little 1880’s cottage.

    I’ll check in with you in a few days, fingers crossed for cooler days! In the meantime there are lots of stories being read, songs sung, balls kicked around the back yard, and so many cuddles and snuggles given and received, so special.
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  • Snowflakes and spiders

    21 marzo 2023, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    On Monday there was a slight trace of a gentle perfume in the garden, I thought it was maybe the grapefruit tree next door but on Tuesday morning the whole house was full of a heavy, rich perfume and flowers had opened overnight on the tree at the back door and one in the street. Not as sweet as star jasmine, but stronger and every bit as lovely. No idea what the tree is called. And later the ground underneath was covered in white blossoms with more petals falling like snow. The bees love it too, you should hear the buzzing.

    However, with gardens and undergrowth inevitably come……SPIDERS! Anyone who knows me will know I’m petrified of spiders (except daddy longlegs and small jumping spiders) and I’ve been wary each time we’ve come to Australia expecting them to jump out at me. In the yard out playing Oisin casually said ‘oh there’s a cockroach’ which didn’t worry me. BUT……. Look again, it was actually a fairly sizeable huntsman tearing up and down an outdoor cushion Jen was shifting. Just as well I was two meters away. It took a couple of attempts to kill it and the dead body was pretty big. Scary for sure, and I was too scared to even move or scream.

    Flowers and trees are really vibrant, beautiful colours all around the area. Ashfield is a fairly old suburb, Jen and Vince live in an 1880’s workers cottage with a few similar cottages in the street. Many houses are brick, some have lovely tiled paths and entrances, some are in good nick, others falling apart. There aren’t many terraces like you see in the inner city, and there are a lot of three- and four-storey newer apartment complexes. Jen said a lot of the area has been rezoned to allow higher density housing so I guess in ten years the suburb will look a lot different.

    On Tuesday the boys were in day care, Jen and I went shopping, we left Pete at home – he was happy doing a few jobs for Vince so went to Bunnings for a couple of brackets so had to try out the café (no Mitre 10 here) and even used a self-checkout which we both try to avoid. And so did I at Uniqlo. Technophobes!

    We went by train and I noticed the mystery man on the side of a building, don’t know who he is but he looks as though he’s being seen through slightly opaque glass, it’s a great sight.

    Shopping was great, so many shops, so much choice, I’d forgotten what it was like to live in a big city. I’d been looking for shoes and found them reasonably easily, bought a dress, top and jumper so came home happy.

    We had a wander round the Queen Victoria Building – QVB – beautiful stained glass, high ceilings, Victorian tilework, saved from demolition some years ago and now full of high-end shops. On previous visits we’ve had high tea there, a real treat if you have time.

    It was so nice to spend a day with Jen, just like old times when we lived in Singapore.
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  • Trains, boats and planes

    22 marzo 2023, Australia

    Wednesday 22nd – a lovely day out with Oisin and Jen while Flynn was in day care, it was lots of fun from start to finish. We walked ten minutes to get the train so that was exciting for Oisin. First stop was the NSW State Library, we’d been there before and would go again. It has the most beautiful reading room in the middle of the original building with richly coloured stained glass, an art gallery with a portrait section (even has two Gottfried Lindauer paintings of Māori), landscapes and generally paintings describing the settlement and history of the state.

    The old entrance/exit has huge old pillars outside and in the lobby on the floor there’s a stone map of the Pacific showing Abel Tasman’s voyages including (as seen in the photo) his 1642 expedition where he mapped the top of the south island and lower north island – easy to see our Nelson home and Farewell Spit. And the doors are huge with brass or bronze (not sure which) panels depicting Aboriginal life and also portraits of important colonists who contributed to the founding of Sydney.

    The main reason for going to the library though, was for a small exhibition of children’s books highlighting their illustrators and how they went about their work. There were lots of books with an emphasis on diversity but also well-loved Australian books. Oisin was very excited to see the Grug and the painting of its house. https://www.sl.nsw.gov.au/exhibitions/imagine-t…

    We headed down the hill to Circular Quay and had lunch at an Italian place Pete and I had been to last year, friendly service, good food – and the peach and passionfruit spritzer was pretty good. Oisin and I spent time looking at the big buildings and watching the ferries come and go, very exciting for the boy.

    I love seeing the old sandstone buildings and got a few photos. There’s so much history in Sydney, well worth a visit and a lot to see especially around the Rocks area and the gardens near Circular Quay but that’s just the start. We’ve been here a few times now and see something different each trip.

    After lunch we walked along towards the Opera House then headed home on the train again – Oisin was pretty tired and well ready for his bed at 7pm.

    We ticked the train box, ticked the boat (ferry) box, and the plane box? Ashfield is under the flight path to and from the airport so planes are frequent but you get used to them. And we'll be heading that way ourselves in a few days.
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  • Last days in Sydney

    26 marzo 2023, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    The remaining four days in Sydney have been fairly quiet. The weather has been hot, humid, rain, thunder, drizzle, mild, sunny, hot…………repeat, repeat. There’s been a lot of soccer played by Granddad and Oisin in the yard, Flynn is just learning to throw a ball so we’ve had games outside with him too. Oisin and I made up Lego farm bricks from the supermarket, just like the ones in NZ, they’ve just been introduced here. I collected them and made a great little farm which I gave away to a friend’s grandson but things are different here: I’d never seen a henhouse, drone or scarecrow in the NZ packages so great excitement to find them. Yes, I know – I haven’t grown up yet!

    We’ve visited a few playgrounds including a playland at Rhodes Mall, very impressed with that one and Flynn and Nan had some big races in the ball pit. A new adventure for me, lots of fun. There are three or four playgrounds within walking distance of Jen and Vince’s place, couldn’t resist a slide and swing at this one.

    We’ve had a drive around the neighbourhood, streets full of Federation era houses (early 1900’s), different sizes, some with wrap-around verandas, all brick with stucco on some, delicate stained glass in some windows – a contrast to the older Victorian houses we’ve seen, and worker’s cottages like Jen and Vince’s. So different from New Zealand architecture.

    Very excited to find an IKEA in Rhodes Mall, no time to get lost in the endless aisles unfortunately but we did buy our favourite ginger snaps which we knew as ‘Anna’s Biscuits’, always a must-buy at IKEA in Singapore when we’d go to buy one thing and go home with bags full of ‘essentials’ (okay, probably not really essential) for our apartment.

    Today we had a lovely walk along the Glebe shoreline, which is in a little cove (Blackwattle Bay) part of Sydney Harbour – you can just see the Harbour Bridge in my bigger photo if you look closely. And the close-up, I thought the Tanqueray Gin signage on the building was appropriate when you looked at the line-up of ‘gin palaces’ docked across the bay. Not envious of course. There are lovely new apartment blocks along the shoreline, gardens, parks, and a big playground where we stopped for a while before lunch.

    We finished with lunch in The Tramshed – as it sounds, refurbished tramsheds with a token old tram and the rest of the place has several restaurants, all sorts from Italian to Vietnamese. On Sunday there’s a small market in the middle with stalls for lovely candles, fresh bread, olives, handcrafts etc, and there’s also a good supermarket with an emphasis on fresh produce so we came home with focaccia and strawberries for tea.

    And that’s our nine days in Sydney, next stop Singapore and then on to Barcelona on Thursday. We’ll be back to Sydney late May. Please join us on our travels over the next few weeks.
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  • Familiar faces, familiar places

    28 marzo 2023, Singapore ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    We spent most of Monday 27/3 travelling,, Jen having dropped us at the train late morning (very good train service from Ashfield to the airport), 8-hour flight Sydney to Singapore, not too crowded, we sat in aisle seats across from each other and each had an empty seat beside us so that was good. Food was okay, Qantas crew very pleasant. And we barely had to stand and wait going through to immigration in Sydney, not a repetition of the 90 minutes in Auckland thank goodness.

    Timeline – we lived in Singapore for several years, in Asia for more than 10, this will explain how we got there
    • April 1993 Pete was made redundant by Telecom, went to work in Ho Chi Minh City for a year for NZ company TeleNZ
    • Nov/Dec 1997 Pete/then family moved to Bangkok, Pete working for Nokia
    • Oct 1998 Pete working mainly in Singapore on a Nokia project, family in BKK completing schooling
    • July 1999 Family to Singapore
    • Feb 2002 Pete made redundant by Nokia, took 3 1/2 years of telecom contract work in Thailand, Philippines, Kuala Lumpur; Andy to Melbourne to Uni 2002, Jen to Brisbane to Uni 2004; Ailsa worked in Singapore 2000-2005
    • Aug/Sept 2005 Pete/Ailsa to Hiroshima, Japan, contracting to Nokia
    • Oct 2007 Redundant again, moved to Bangkok to look for work but nothing came up
    • Feb 2008 Pete/Ailsa returned to NZ

    We’ve had a few short stays in Singapore over the past years on our way to see the family in Poland, it’s always good to get back. This time we’re staying at Hotel Royal on Queens Road, good tourist grade, comfortable room, very pretty to look out at the lights from the 13th floor at midnight. It’s two blocks from Raffles, might have to find a Singapore Sling tomorrow

    Got a taxi from the airport, typical taxi ‘uncle’ talked the whole time, we got the gen on the new expressway and how many billion $ it cost, tourism is picking up which is good, no masks unless going to the doctor or hospital AND the best chicken rice in Singapore is down in Chinatown, he gave us the address three times, so keen for us to go. Lovely man. Hard to get my language ear back into the ‘Singlish’ though, a bit hard to understand the fast chat, but so familiar all the same, made us smile.

    Headed out this morning having bought bus/MRT cards, not without difficulty but I have to say there was a very helpful and proactive young woman at the station on duty to help helpless tourists, very impressed. In the mall above the station we saw three cops, all armed with tasers and possibly guns (didn’t like to stare), Singapore is still a safe place.

    We took the 77 bus to Holland Village – I took that bus route from Orchard Road every day for more than five years to and from work, interesting to see the changes but also there’s much the same ‘Fort Americal (AKA the US Embassy) is still standing alongside the Aussies and Brits. All around the Botanic Gardens still looks like a jungle in the middle of the city, Singapore has a law that a certain percentage of the island has to remain green, a good thing. Funny to see two ‘helpers’ (or maids) on the bus with two little expat kids in strollers, kids were griping so they gave the kids their phones to play with, next thing we hear the familiar ‘Baaaaby Shark, do do do do, do dit, do do’. Oisin and Flynn love that song.

    We had a look around Lims Chinese furniture and Asian homeware store, my fingers itched to get some of the blue and white pottery to add to my collection, not to mention wooden cabinets, but Pete reckoned they wouldn’t fit in the backpacks. Bother!

    Then we met up for coffee with our old friend of nearly 25 years, Amy, so much to catch up on about family and what we’ve all been doing, shared memories are wonderful. Then we went to 6th Avenue for old time’s sake to check out our old neighbourhoods. Quite a bit of building going on, some seriously expensive real estate around the area now, condos and houses. The workers still have their makan (lunch) then lie in the shade for a sleep, we tiptoed past.

    Our Lily Avenue house is still standing but we were amazed at the beautiful park next door. One photo shows the huge storm drain that was at the end of our cul de sac, and the other shows that it has been completely piped in (the whole canal job cost $500m I believe), and a park, playground and walking/cycling track created.

    Took the bus back to Orchard Road and had Yakitori chicken at Ngee Ann City food court, nostalgia again. It was my go-to meal at least once a week when I was living on my own, I worked for NZ Defence in the Ngee Ann City tower block (it has 8 floors of food and shopping complex, and about 40 storeys of office space in two towers).

    I’d booked a treat for the evening, another of our favourite places, the 70th floor of Swisshotel the Stamford where we took visitors to see the sun go down, beautiful. When booking on line they asked ‘any special occasion?’ so, ever resourceful (cheeky?) I said it was an early birthday celebration, and please could we have a table by the window. So we got the table and a surprise cake and candle. There were two young men alongside us setting up advertising for Veuve Clicquot champagne, bottles and glasses set up for photos with food, the staff member pouring, sunset, views – interesting to watch and they were ready for a chat too, having been assured that they weren’t disturbing us at all. The sunset was pretty but it’s really lovely watching the sky dim and all the city lights come on below us, beautiful. Such a good day all round.
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  • More friends and food

    29 marzo 2023, Singapore

    We repacked for our night flight after breakfast (adequate, basic mix of ‘American Breakfast’ and Asian with fresh fruit, toast, croissants etc), checked out and left our bags at the hotel. I had arranged to meet two old friends from my High Commission/Defence days for lunch so they introduced me to the Defence PA and I had a look through some of the HC, great view over Boat Quay and down to the sea. We went to a nearby Hawker for delicious chicken rice and kalian, so I was very happy, and we had an hour catching up on family, ex colleagues etc, a very pleasant hour spent.- Very pleased with the photo of the view looking across to the Stamford where we were last night on the 70th floor

    Pete had gone wandering on his own when I went to the HC so, despite it being (according to Google weather) ’32 degrees, feels like 37’, I walked along to Boat Quay and down to the Fullerton Hotel where I braved the revolving door (I hate them, scary) and had 15 minutes wandering round their little museum and breathing in the perfume from several enormous flower arrangements with lots of pink lilies amongst other blooms, it was really beautiful. The Fullerton used to be the General Post Office many years ago. In our time they had amazing Sunday brunches with ‘free pour’ champagne and I have to say we indulged a few times, great food, lovely surroundings by the river, what’s not to like?

    Next stop was the Asian Civilisations Museum, stopping to take a photo of my reflection in the ball sculpture on the lawn, it has the sounds of the city quietly coming out of speakers – kids, trains, cars, birds etc, very effective. ACM has a great display of goods from a shipwreck https://www.nhb.gov.sg/acm/galleries/maritime-t…, and another set of pottery from about the 8th century, some gold, all sorts. I loved two dresses in the small costume display, maybe 2-300 years old, a gold cup, and a beautiful headless statue that looked like very faded painted wood, fascinating.

    Then out into the ’32 degree’ heat to walk down to Raffles City mall where I met Pete for a cold drink and after that we headed to the Long Bar in Raffles itself for, of course, a Singapore Sling. We had plenty of time up our sleeves so the maybe 20-minute queue to get in didn’t bother us standing in the shade. They were busy but we both felt there were fewer tables on the main floor, and they seemed to be sending bigger groups of maybe five or more, up the circular staircase to the additional bar. I chucked peanuts on the floor, as you do, and we had the obligatory photo, it was a pleasant way to pass an hour. We were sitting at the bar and chatting to the man next door, in his 80’s, on his way home after a cruise round Australia and NZ.

    It was also a chance to find out what Pete was doing out on his own, behaving of course, he’d had more than three hours walking the back streets, went as far as Sri Mariamman temple, crossed the river, got some photos of pretty good art work on some shops. He likes just wandering and seeing what’s around the next corner.

    We were able to have a shower at the hotel pool, got a taxi to the airport, and I’d booked us into a lounge for a few hours so we were able to relax with their buffet meal, something to drink. Nice and easy.
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  • Singapore photos and a few thoughts

    30 marzo 2023, Singapore Strait ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    I thought I’d add a few photos taken in Singapore including the silver ball photo missed in the original post.

    We’re now in Barcelona and I’m thinking about the long day from Singapore to Barcelona, though it won’t be the longest flight in our whole trip, and have made a couple of observations of customer service along the way. I’ve been in that business since starting work 50 whole years ago as a telephone exchange operator aged almost 17, have been in PA/secretarial roles and various training/teaching of adult roles along the way. I think you need to be polite and friendly but not servile and it disturbed me in Singapore to see men and women cleaners and other similar roles almost bowing when they were given a polite thank you.

    On the other hand, in a public facing role in airports such as check-in, managing queues, checking boarding passes and passports on boarding, those people need to be on their guard for dodgy people (not us of course) but can still be polite. A sneering nod of the head or flick of the hand when indicating to come forward doesn’t do it for me, nor a snapped answer and virtual push off.

    Flight crews so far have varied too. The Qantas crews Auckland/Sydney and Sydney/Singapore were ‘normal’ – efficient but pleasant, friendly, had a few laughs and nothing seemed to be a bother. Emirates on the other hand were there just to pick up their pay; they looked bored, weren’t very visible, barely smiled, didn’t interact with the passengers much at all. A real contrast and Emirates had a good reputation but now the cost cutting shows too with no amenity packs for night flights, no printed menus (first world problem of course), snacks served were ‘interesting’ – a choice of a hot pre-packaged bread roll filled with a cheese or egg mix, plus water and a dryish sweet small cupcake. Meals varied from fairly unappetising to not too bad.

    But back to customer service and you definitely do get some gems such as the lovely Filipina lady at the boarding gate in Dubai, short and quite round (like some of us are), ‘Good morning’ greeting with a happy smile, checked the boarding pass and passport and sent us on our way with a ‘have a nice flight’. Great example to others.
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  • Food relieves frustrations

    31 marzo 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Our overnight flight from 1am in Singapore on 30 March to 3pm in Barcelona – it was a beautiful sight going over India, I was surprised at how populated it seemed, so many lights like a blanket of stars, some scattered but many quite dense - very pretty. We had two legs via Dubai, had a bit of a challenge finding the bus shuttle from Barcelona airport to the city so in the end took a taxi, pleasant driver but silent, no social comment from this one, unlike our nice man in Singapore. We had a wander round early evening, found some fruit and Spanish pastries at the big and busy fruit/meat/fish market a couple of hundred meters away, and were in bed not much after 9pm, we really needed a good night’s sleep.

    Our hotel is directly across from the Gaudi museum and there have been a dozen or so people lining up most times we've gone in and out. Not tempted to go in ourselves, we went to the Batllo Gaudi house when we were in Barcelona in 2017 and really liked it, pretty, colourful, and Gaudi influences are everywhere of course.

    We’re staying at Hotel Gaudi https://www.hotelgaudibarcelona.com/en/, 100m from La Rambla, 200 from a Metro underground stop, not far to the cruise port for our start on Monday. It’s a good tourist-grade hotel, obviously fairly recently renovated with the rooms freshly painted white, upgraded very good bathroom (excellent shower), comfortable bed. We’ve got the cheapest room I think, a window that opens into a fire escape courtyard but it has a grille outside so happy to part open it when we’re in the room during the day and you don’t see a view when you’re asleep. Breakfast was typical cereals, fresh and preserved fruit, cold cuts, hot bacon and sausages, bread and a toaster, rolls, jam – all we needed, served in a light bright room with a comfy sitting area/library next door.

    Friday 31st was a ‘life admin’ morning, as Jen calls it. Pete went to the laundry along the street, did a wash then found the dryer didn’t work, the place didn’t have any on-site staff (all coins and self-programmed) so he came back for breakfast then went to another place further up the street – success second time round and nice dry clothes. He thinks he’ll try again on Monday, can’t lose that new-found skill! I did a bit of sorting out and reorganising bags, emails, and it was a productive morning.

    Next task was to find the tourist information office but on the way we popped into a church on La Rambla, the organ was playing and on the face of it the church was quite plain but it actually had some lovely stained glass and the Stations of the Cross were pottery plaques, quite unusual. This may be a theme in the blog – I’m not religious (Pete is the Catholic in the family) but I love old churches and the ritual of Mass so am always keen to have a look around. In Europe they seem to be very ‘anonymous’, often just a door on a street, but when you go in you find several hundred years of history, gold, paintings………..all sorts. However, at the end of ten weeks let’s see how I’m doing.

    Anyway, we were off to buy an all-in-one ticket to Montserrat, taking in metro, local train, gondola from station to Montserrat Abbey, Montserrat museum ticket, interactive display ticket, café meal. A bargain, and we wanted to go to the Abbey again having had a morning tour from Barcelona back in 2017. Lesson learned – don’t always trust Google maps implicitly, accept that English is not the first language in Spain, realise that hand waves don’t necessarily point in the way you think they do, don’t have a hissy fit when things don’t work, and…….go with the flow (eventually). Oh, and policemen are handsome and kind, not very good at giving directions to the nearby (apparently) station, but when they’re standing next to KFC and you’re hungry and cross it’s a good idea to have late lunch. Be warned – KFC Barcelona in Placa Espana tastes good but the wait is every bit as long as KFC in Tahuna.

    And long story short-ish, the multi ticket isn’t being sold at present so, having worked out how to buy Metro tickets, we headed off to check out the meeting point for our ‘Devour’ food and history tour, had a walk through the Gothic quarter then back to the hotel to decide what to do on Saturday.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gothic_Quarter,_B…
    https://devourtours.com/tours/barcelona-tapas-t…

    The food tour that night was great from start to finish. The company ‘Devour’ has tours in various European cities, we’d been on one in Madrid. The guide, Alex, English 40-ish, and a trainee young woman, Benedetta was Italian and they tag-teamed through the evening. History/food – what a great combination. We had a group of six Canadians (two brothers, sister and spouses), a couple from Detroit and the Gillins from NZ. Everyone was really friendly and the Canadians’ first question was ‘what happened to your Prime Minister? We heard she quit!!!’ They couldn’t believe it.

    I’ve put in a photo of the ‘Bishop’s Bridge’ which we’ve seen a few times as we’ve walked around, and it has a bit of a story – the architect in 1928 had submitted several plans for Barcelona’s new buildings but only this one for the bridge was accepted. Apparently disappointed, he secretly incorporated a hidden skull (a real one, not stone) with a dagger inside it, and supposedly anyone who crosses the bridge and sees the skull will have bad luck. On the other hand, if you walk backwards under the bridge while making a wish it will come true.

    I’ve attached a link to the tour website. It was fairly fast-paced and the main things learned were: don’t eat on La Rambla because it’s pretty much a rip-off; and always go down quiet dodgy-looking alleys because you’ll quickly come to a little square with at least one small place to eat, local food, local prices, great value.

    The food was excellent apart from (in my opinion) deep fried skinny fish, too ‘fishy tasting’ for my liking, but Pete ate it all. At the first place they lined up the cava on the bar when we walked in, and after eating they brought out glasses of vermouth. And so it carried on! We got the history of the bars, the history of the general area, info about food, we ate lots, drank a bit, and at the third place we had an actual meal, three small courses, the dessert being crème Catalan which is flavoured with orange, cinnamon and nutmeg – crème brulée is apparently a distant second best because it’s ‘only flavoured with vanilla, very bland’.

    All very delicious, and we rolled back to the hotel after a very satisfying evening.
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  • Monks on a mountain - Montserrat

    1 aprile 2023, Spagna

    Saturday 1/4 After getting pretty much nowhere on Friday afternoon we decided to do a full day tour instead of doing our own thing, much more efficient and time-effective, so chose to go to Montserrat and then lunch and wine tasting at a 10th century castle – what’s not to like about that? Taxi to a bus hub, met up with our really lovely tour guide Guille and a group of 17 so not too big. Guille is from Argentina, mid-20’s, bubbly and did a great job. The group was mainly American, and we ended up mostly with a Filipina woman, Chris, who worked in the Telecom supply industry based in Dubai, and was travelling on her own. She was good company.

    It was good to see more of the main city, we remembered that many of the houses (or really apartment blocks I guess, several storeys high) had quite ornate balconies, this time I noticed pulleys sticking out below the roofline, I guess no other way to get stuff in other than through the front windows – what a task! Further out we were seeing what seemed to be shantytowns, bits of tin and whatever spread out, some with little vege plots around them, but most in very scrubby countryside and sad to see. The area is very dry, not a lot of rain in the past months and farms are struggling.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santa_Maria_de_Mo…

    Montserrat (‘serrated/jagged mountain’ if you hadn’t guessed the translation) dominates the views as you get out of the city, it was about an hour’s drive and Guille gave a good commentary on the way about Barcelona’s history, the use now of the mountain for rock climbing and dare-devil jumping etc, and then about the abbey’s history. I’ve put in the link, lots of detail about this lovely place dating back to the supposed discovery of the Black Madonna in a cave on the mountain in 880. There have been bad bishops, miracles, destruction by Napoleon, good times and bad, but it is an amazing place to visit and very well done with an emphasis still on the pilgrim side of it with the monks taking care of visitors and the abbey but not visible usually until after 6pm when only those staying in the abbey’s accommodation part are left.

    In essence the train from Barcelona goes close to the abbey but then you either walk uphill or get a gondola or smaller railway to the abbey itself. It’s on a small plateau which you can see in a photo I cribbed from our visit in 2017. At that time we took the funicular right up high above but today it was closed due to fire risk on the mountain, we saw several fire crews as we travelled. So, although closed at times, the funicular is one ‘attraction’ and as for the rest: you can hike half an hour to a cross on another high point, take a path downhill to a small chapel on the site of the famous cave, there are two cafes if you’re hungry, an interactive ‘history of the abbey’ display which takes about half an hour, the museum/art gallery, the church itself with the famous Madonna………..and great views and some other walking paths. The abbey supports a famous boys choir, live-in tuition and music up to when the voices break, not singing at the moment because of school holidays but tourists can hear them in the church each day when they’re there.

    The whole group went to the church and had a good look around, beautiful stained glass and statues, and to the side there was a constant stream of people going up the steps above the altar, walking in front of the Madonna, brief stop to pray, then out again. You had to buy tickets for that, which some of our group did, Chris especially was so happy to have done that. There was a statue outside of (I think) St Joseph and his eyes followed you wherever you walked to the side or in front – creepy but clever.

    Pete and I went to the museum/art gallery, some very serious value in their art collection with Picasso’s old fisherman (and I had no idea he painted ‘normal’ pictures, this was from when he was about 30 and is so lifelike), others from Caravaggio, Degas, Monet, Breughel, and many others. Some beautiful paintings and we spent a lot of time there and then in the museum itself with all sorts of things from an Egyptian mummy to the richly decorated works of gold, enamel, silver etc in the ‘treasury’. There’s also an enormous library with extremely old and valuable books and manuscripts though not open to the public.

    Last stop was the interactive display which started with a big video of the history from discovery through to Napoleon’s destruction and through to now, then walk-through information about all sorts of things, sporting activities on the mountain, and finished with a short concert video from the choir and it looks as though the boys have a good life of music, general education, travel for concerts around the world etc. We met up at 1.45 with the rest of the group at the cheese and honey stalls set up at the gates, plenty there to try and buy if you wanted, all very high quality apparently. The abbey wasn’t hugely busy though there seemed to be an awful lot of cars in the carpark as well as a few buses, so we’d had around three hours to look around in total and now be overcrowded.

    I’ve put in a couple of photos from 2017 taken from the top of the funicular so you can see the layout and of the Madonna because on that visit we did see her up close.

    https://ollerdelmas.com/energia-i-sostenibilita…

    We drove on for half an hour to the Oller del Mas winery for a late lunch, but first walked about 500m round the edge of the vineyard which looked a bit scruffy to my eyes but they told us they are a sustainable vineyard (not quite organic) and don’t mow between every second row in alternate years but let the grass and plants grow then plough them in for nutrients, do the same with the alternate row the following year. The vines were cut right back with just a few leaves of the new season’s growth showing. It would be a beautiful sight in summer. The centuries-old castle has been joined by a few very posh-looking ‘cabins’ for accommodation, another money-making scheme to keep things going, they looked very inviting.

    The group and Guille sat around the table for delicious vegetable soup, chicken with potato and asparagus, crème Catalan to finish, and two glasses of the Oller del Mas wine which was the start of the ‘tasting’. We moved into the castle for that – four fairly generous offerings (Pete felt obliged to drink my red), then a short tour of part of the building including a look at very old cellars through grill doors, no chance of borrowing another bottle. I’d love to have seen more about the history of the family itself, there’s a bit in the link above if you go through it though.

    We had time for a wander round the grounds, sat for a while in the garden chatting while some bought more wine to take home and Pete had a glass of their special ‘orange’ wine to try (at $25, he didn’t realise that’s what he paid!). We’d been told all through about the family-run aspect and Pete asked the young man behind the bar if he was one of the family. The answer was ‘definitely not, with the money they’ve got they wouldn’t be doing this job’.

    An hour’s ride took us back to the city, we had a bit of a spell then went across to the Gothic quarter for tea, found the Bar des Pi that we’d been to first on our food tour so thought ‘that’s good for us’, tapas and a glass of cava and beer and we were set. Another good day on our holiday - and I've loaded the photos from the winery in the next episode....
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  • Wine in a castle

    1 aprile 2023, Spagna

    Hopefully you've seen the report for today in the Montserrat entry - these are photos from the lovely Oller del Mas winery we visited for lunch and wine tasting. and of course more Cava with our dinner, almost essential these days. For someone who rarely drinks alcohol I've probably consumed as much in three or four days as in the last six months. I'm a bubbles fan.Leggi altro

  • From Gaudi to the Romans

    2 aprile 2023, Spagna ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    This was a busy one starting with a taxi to Sagrada Familia at 7.45 on the internet suggestion that you should go ‘early, around 8am’ if you wanted to attend the International Mass at 9am, but literally hundreds of others had the same idea so we had a half hour line-up outside in a chilly breeze but didn’t worry. We’d grabbed a roll and sausage at the hotel breakfast room so ate that as we waited. Many languages could be heard around us. We had to go through the X-ray machines then on into the church, we were lucky to get front seats on the right-hand aisle so could see and hear everything, target for the incense and holy water as the priests walked through the congregation. They had an internet site to download the order of service – never thought I’d see the day that a fair percentage of any congregation was glued to their phones in the middle of the service! That’s life today isn’t it? I had plenty of time to get a video looking around at the colours and music in the background.

    The service was mostly in Spanish, a bit of English and French, but it was reasonably easy to follow. The choir and music in general was lovely and of course the stunning colours of the stained glass just made it a very special part of our holiday, especially for Pete as he is a regular attender of Mass, and I just like the ritual, maybe the lapsed Anglican coming out in me from my childhood of Sunday school three times a month and Family Service with Mum in Bulls on the fourth Sunday while Dad stayed home and cooked the Sunday roast. Being Palm Sunday there was a blessing of palms/random tree branches some of the congregation had brought, more incense for that. It looked like they had two bishops, one priest, one choir conductor, one congregation music conductor, and a cast of several altar servers and readers.

    Hard to say how many attended though we had seen on line they restricted it to 500, and there were already people in the ‘normal admission’ line for I think a 10am opening so they were keen. We were certainly chucked out in a hurry; I snatched a few photos but was happy I’d managed the video earlier and some of the glass and colours.

    We took the underground to La Rambla just along from our hotel, shot into the Gothic Quarter and had empanadas and pastries at a café, it was our ‘second breakfast’ which we learned about on the food tour: first breakfast when you get up early and maybe have coffee and something small, second two or three hours later which would be a bit more substantial, third is lunch around 1 or 2pm, then it’s siesta time, then fourth a reasonable snack and back to work, and a fairly light dinner around 9pm or later. In our few days here we have managed the five feeds quite easily but not necessarily as light as some of them should have been?

    Back to the hotel for a spell then it was off to the Palau de la Música where we did an audio tour around the beautiful art deco auditorium and public areas, 50 minutes, two short organ recitals. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, known for its intricate stained glass in the side windows and a stunning glass chandelier, lovely red velvet seats, smallish stage where very well-known artists have appeared. Well worth the visit – have a look at the link for much better photos than I could put in. You could go out on a terrace overlooking one of the main plazas too.

    https://www.palaumusica.cat/en/the-art-nouveau-…

    Next stop was the History Museum which to our surprise had free entry and it was fairly busy. It’s in the old castle/cathedral area, is in three parts and the first covers an overview of the city over the last 2000 years – I was more interested in the older stuff, not the fairly extensive 20th century industrial and civil war stuff, but it was well done. Pete and I had split up (he reads everything very slowly) and I went to the older building which has a very plain chapel which, when you look closely, has lovely stained glass and an old painted ceiling. There’s also a large, fairly empty, main hall, high ceiling and windows, and exhibit cases around the edges with all sorts of pottery, jewellery, tools, all kinds of things found around the site.

    Met up with Pete and we had a look at a garden in the next building, open to the sky, tinkling fountain, stone stairs, very Spanish and peaceful. I left him there and was about to head to the hotel when I saw movement behind a big glass door and thought it must be another exhibit – young woman asked ‘do you want to see the Roman ruins?’. Well, did I? We didn’t even know they were there and they are ENORMOUS, an incredible walkway through the remains of a dyers factory with brick tanks where they soaked stuff in urine and other liquids to process it; next along was a garum (fish sauce) factory with fairly intact circular pottery vats/jars more than a meter across where the sauce was stored; then we were into a slightly later time, wine making on a large scale, where the juice was fed in channels around the factory and ended up in similar round storage jars set into the ground. What a find this place was. There was a part where church leaders of a later period were buried, a private walkway the bishop would have used to go from residence to the church which even had a resting bench on the way. I texted Pete to make sure he found it too so we were both well satisfied with our day’s touristing.

    https://www.barcelona.cat/museuhistoria/en/heri…

    We had noticed lots of school groups on La Rambla on Thursday and Friday, high school age, and there were still some around on Sunday but more families and some fairly big walking tours. I’d expected to see more hen parties or the famous ‘lager louts’ but no real evidence of either – or perhaps we just weren’t out late enough in the evenings. I think this was a good time to come to Spain weather-wise and before the real tourist season starts. There are smokers everywhere so cigarettes must be cheap, shopkeepers sweep the streets endlessly in front of their cloned tourist shops all selling the same T-shirts, mosaic-patterned everything from fridge magnets to……..you name it, and there’s quite a heavy police presence, all in black, armed and visible in cars and on the street but an awful lot standing round in front of the several cop shops.

    We often heard singing in the squares, lanes and subway, all sorts of music, instruments, voices, it was nice to stand for a couple of minutes to listen. And that was a chance to look around and up at the houses though at street level the shops in early mornings had shutters pulled down (like roller doors), many covered with graffiti, as were the huge wooden doors leading to mysterious courtyards – many of them had ornate doorhandles or knockers, very heavy-looking.

    We’ve been seeing the Catalan flag everywhere – four red stripes, five yellow; the red either signifying the stripes being drawn in blood by King Charles the Bald on Count Wilfred the Hairy of Barcelona’s golden shield in about 900 as an act of gratitude. Or possibly Ramon Berenguer painting the bars in his own blood on a yellow shield, or even Louis the Pious drew the bars on a golden shield during the conquest of Barcelona. Lots of different accounts and a fair bit of blood involved.

    For dinner we decided to look for the other two places we’d been on the food tour but both were closed so we just wandered, ended up very close to the Bridge of Sighs and its skull decoration, sat outside with a drink for ten minutes but a very thin wind sent us inside where we had yet more tapas. I was going to have cava but in the cocktail list I saw …..peach juice, cava…….and skipped over the rest, thought it sounded like my favourite Bellini cocktail. Bellini on steroids, two or three shots of something else, I have to admit I was a bit light on my feet when we left, partly cobbled streets don’t help either. Having the days in Barcelona before the cruise was the best thing we could have done, we saw and did such a lot without it being crazy busy, and the weather was kind to us.
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  • Barcelona photos - the city old and new

    2 aprile 2023, Spagna ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    More photos from Barcelona - a couple from the History Museum and some from round the Gothic Quarter. Well worth having three days in this city before the cruise, so much to see.

  • On board at last

    3 aprile 2023, Iberian Sea ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    So……….this cruise has been at least 3 ½ years in the planning but a couple of things got in the way. We’ve been fortunate enough to go to see our Polish family almost every second year since Andy moved there in 2007, the last visit being in August 2019, after which I said it was far too hot at that time of year so we decided on a Viking cruise from Bergen in Norway (to see something of my Norwegian ancestry again) through to Stockholm, via a couple of days in St Petersburg, and we booked for April 2021.

    Then came Covid in 2020, we knew 2021 wouldn’t happen so rebooked the same cruise for 2023 just to be sure. Then came the war between Russia and the Ukraine and Viking took St Petersburg and a couple of other ports off the plan so we decided to look further west and decided on Trade Routes of the Middle Ages. And at last here we are on Viking Jupiter on Monday 3 April 2023.

    More ‘life admin’ with Pete visiting the laundry again, Ailsa packing up the bags again, taxi at the hotel door again, and away we went to the port. The check-in was very smooth, we’d completed all documentation on line, had boarding passes emailed, just had to drop our bags off, have passports checked, picked up our ID cards, went through immigration x-ray and away we went. Very well done.

    Viking Jupiter was launched in 2019 then very quickly mothballed due to Covid, came back into service a few months ago so is virtually new. Everything is clean and fresh. The (approximately) 450 crew/staff are from probably dozens of countries, are unfailingly polite, smiling, greeting each passenger they pass but it’s not that ‘servile’ attitude, it’s friendly and pleasant without being over the top. The ship has a capacity of about 950, on this trip there are 813 passengers with only FOUR from NZ, around 40ish each from the UK, Australia and Canada, a few dozen randoms and…….701 from the USA.

    That might explain why our grade of room has a pod coffee maker, but we asked our nice crewman Armando and he found us an electric jug and teabags, so helpful. It’s a ‘compact’ room but has everything we need for storage, two armchairs, big TV with in-house movies or satellite TV, music, Viking destination videos. There’s a full width window and a small balcony with two chairs and a table, glass ‘railings’ so we can see everything outside.

    We were greeted with trays of sparkling wine and juice, had a quick lifejacket demo then by midday sat in the Deck 7 World Café for a great buffet lunch and more bubbles. Staterooms were ready for passengers with bags delivered at 1pm so we settled in then went on an orientation tour of the ship which showed us the theatre, restaurants (one buffet, one a la carte, two small and fancy, and a couple of snacky places), nightclub and a couple of bars, small museum, two small shops, a spa, ‘living room’ which is comfy sofas at the front of the ship with a great view, and the ‘Wintergarden’ where an English tea is served every day at 4pm.

    Wine, beer, soft drinks are served free with lunch and dinner; the mini bar in each room has chocolate, nuts, six soft drinks and water replenished daily; there is an included tour in each port of 3 – 4 hours duration plus maybe 6 – 10 paid tours in each port if you choose to do one of those instead; port talk each day about the next location; gentle violin/piano music in the atrium each afternoon and evening so public spaces on three floors can hear that. No complaints at all about anything, we’re impressed.

    We went to the port talk and realised that the included Barcelona tour we’d booked was covering stuff we’d seen round the city so we were able to change it to visit the coastal town of Sitges on Tuesday morning. Had a buffet dinner, went to the show which was a Barcelona group demonstrating the local version of flamenco – rumba – and singing, very loud but despite that I was so tired I drifted off, so I was sound asleep by 10pm. This holiday stuff is exhausting.

    Another thing – in the public washrooms they have a calming background noise, I asked about it and apparently its ‘a year in the life of a park’, very much condensed, with birds tweeting, people, cars, more birds. A bit disconcerting, you wonder if you’re going mad when you first hear it but it’s actually very nice.

    And one other thing – on the tour Pete saw one of the crew in the atrium with a yardstick measuring out the distance between tables. Perfection.
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  • Viking adventures

    4 aprile 2023, Iberian Sea ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Tuesday 4/4 Beautiful sunrise seen from our balcony this morning, and away we went with 23 others and guide Sylvia to Sitges which is about 40 minutes south of Barcelona. One of Pete’s work colleagues had told him that she stayed in Sitges, I think in the 80’s, and really loved it, but we knew that since then it had grown and was a real tourist town so has maybe changed a fair bit.

    In a nutshell the countryside was fairly dry-looking but inland it’s a great grape-growing area and is famous for Cava, as well as growing olives. Sitges has 17 beaches in a 4km stretch, has become something of a dormitory town for Barcelona so there are traffic jams, there are a lot of new-build apartment blocks in the town and some very upmarket houses with pools. In contrast there’s an ‘old town’ with narrow lanes, pretty views, lots of ceramic tiles on the buildings for street signs, traditional blue and white painted houses which are very popular with tourists but accommodation along the beachfront is very expensive.

    Back in hippy times it was a mecca for alternative people and today it still has that reputation, a lot of gay bars and shops, cannabis shop and plenty of nightclubs, that sort of thing. Goes crazy in summer.

    We walked through the town down to an old 16th century church above the beach, had time to walk or have a cuppa (errrr, this is Spain, coffee and a pastry). The church bell struck 10 while I watched, it doesn’t use the clappers but has an electric ‘hammer’ striking the outside, makes a great noise too. I got a great shot of the church showing a cannon emplacement directly outside for protection against the English in a great battle.

    Next to the church is what looks like an old building but it was explained that a rich American who loved the town built this place using all sorts of styles: renaissance, baroque, traditional Spanish. You look carefully and realise that the stone carvings are too crisp to be old, that sort of thing. The path leads to one of the beaches, the wind was nippy but one hardy soul was out swimming. We walked through the old area down to the next beach and along an avenue of palm trees. These were planted by locals in the 19th century who had gone to the USA to make their fortunes, came back and built big houses on the waterfront to show off their wealth. One of these was the Bacardi family of rum fame.

    I hadn’t realised that a ‘snack’ was included in the tour so it was nice to sit at the window of a beachfront restaurant with a pleasant American couple from Los Angeles, we chatted and ate the FIVE different tapas served up with a glass of cava. Definitely happy with all of that.

    We went along to the Wintergarden for high tea at 4pm, it was crowded and the crew were flat out with plates of sandwiches and cakes, warm scones with cream and jam, a huge tea menu and drinks as well. We sat by the window, joined by an older American couple, she was as funny as anything with stories of past travel including being helped by Italian cops in Naples when she and a friend were trying to get pizza but couldn’t cross the road. The cops asked if they could help and said ‘jump in, we know where the best pizzas are’, proceeded to put on the siren and speed to their destination, wouldn’t let them pay for the pizzas, put them back in the police car and drove them to the dock. She said they could be seen by everyone on the ship, the captain came rushing down to see why two of his passengers were being returned by police, what had they done? She told a great story.

    The ship sailed at 5pm so, being by the window, we had a good view of the harbour as we sailed out. Time for the port talk about our visit to Cartagena on Wednesday, then we had dinner in the slightly posher restaurant, again by the window so the sunset was every bit as good as the sunrise. We went to the show which was really professional, worthwhile seeing – Britt Lenting is from the Netherlands and has appeared in several West End productions so she was talking about her career and singing songs from the shows, everyone thoroughly enjoyed it too.

    This is being written at 1.30am, I can’t sleep so might as well write the diary. We’re currently out at sea about half way between Barcelona and Cartagena, in port around midday so planning a quiet morning.

    Check the next instalment for extra photos of Sitges
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  • Theatres old and new

    5 aprile 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Wednesday 5/4 An easy start to the day because we weren’t landing in Cartagena until midday and our tour of the town, Roman theatre and countryside wasn’t until 1.30pm. The ship was very close to the shore going south so we could see white towns strung out on the horizon, craggy hills, quite a few boats of varying sizes – and didn’t even have to leave the room because ours is facing the shore, a lucky break.

    The tour was an included one so lots of people took advantage of it, several busloads leaving every 20 – 30 minutes and all had to be back by 5pm. Had a lovely guide, Carlos, who later told Pete he was a former triathlete, now doing a lot of cycling, and he certainly looked fit. He gave us quite a lot of information about the area, history, current situation, industry, which was surprisingly interesting.

    We first went to the Roman theatre which wasn’t discovered until 1988, slowly uncovered by demolishing all the houses and businesses built on top of it, and opened to the public 2003, and a museum opened a few years later. It was built around 2000 years ago using the natural slope of a hill for its built-up seating. 3rd century a lot of it was re-used in building a market in the former stage area. 13th century a cathedral was built on the upper part of the slope and the remains of that are what you can see in the photo of me and Pete, above our heads. This theatre would have been used for plays and concerts, and they know there was an amphitheatre a short distance away which would have been used for gladiator fights.

    Heading back to the bus past City Hall, no mistaking the bullet holes in the outer stone walls. We drove through the city along a mile-long yellow wall which encloses the Army and Navy presence – all new recruits go there each year to start in the military, it seems to be HQ for both, there’s a big shipyard where they’d built submarines and ships (apparently now builds big private boats), and on Google Earth the whole thing is pixillated because it’s classified.

    It’s not an attractive city, looks quite run-down but is apparently an industrial/engineering centre, has a university that produces top class graduates who know they’ll have a job waiting on graduating. There are no beaches, all docks and industry, anyone wanting a swim has to go well out of town. What it does have is agriculture on the flats, grows everything from avocados to watermelons, stone fruit, vegetables, olives, a huge part of the region’s economy – the garden of Europe. We drove for about half an hour to the Cabo de Palos lighthouse, 54m high, range of 24 miles, on a little peninsula surrounded by beautiful dark blue water – climbed up the hill to the base and down again.

    I found the landscape quite depressing in this area – dusty, rocky, greenish low pines and scrub, but then there were lots of wild lavender bushes on the side of the road, quite a contrast. There’s a kind of lake where there’s been salt production for ever, and we bypassed the new white towns to drive into history. The road was quite twisty in parts over hills and had big rock barriers, what a job they would have been to build. The area had been a huge mining centre for hundreds of years mining lead, silver mainly and at the turn of the 20th century there were more than 1000 mines, employment, export wealth for Spain. In the end Castro decided he didn’t want to trade with other countries and the mines gradually shut down, the last mid-70’s. There are lots of old smelter chimneys still standing (just), abandoned mine buildings all around. And there’s a wind farm on the top of a ridge catching wind off the sea.

    In contrast there was a large upmarket resort/sports centre industry with hotels and accommodation, lush smooth golf courses, sports centres, mountain bike tracks, running facilities……..international teams go there to prepare for big tournaments in: soccer, cycling, tennis, athletics, triathlon and, would you believe, cricket?

    So that was today’s tour. After dinner we went to the show in the theatre, this time the captain turned up to introduce himself and the management team, and then music from the resident entertainment team, all very professional. Might as well go to these things.
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  • Castle, fort, tapas and tea

    6 aprile 2023, Spagna ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    Thursday 6/4 The ship tied up in Malaga before 8am and the first tours were away by 0830, some were going all the way to Granada and the Alhambra which is a full day. There had been some disappointed customers apparently, the ship had been allocated XX entrance tickets to the Alhambra and had taken bookings, but then Alhambra management took away twenty places. Such a shame. Also heard one of the buses that took the same tour we did yesterday (it was included in the cruise price, a ‘freebie’), the guide was very poor and several of the passengers wouldn’t continue with her after the visit to the Roman theatre, and the ones who did go on got a very basic commentary.

    So that’s very unfortunate, and we were obviously lucky with Carlos, so it will be interesting to hear further comments as the trip goes on.

    As for today, we’ve done a four-hour tour ‘A Fortress, a Palace & Breath-taking Vistas’ which included tapas and traditional singing in a bar, thoroughly enjoyed the time. The guides did a good job considering this was a very special public holiday, a holy day where the police and Legions (a kind of lodge as far as I can make out) in the city join to take a statue of the Madonna from the port, where she is brought in on a boat, along the waterfront into the city, rests there and on Palm Sunday the statue is paraded through the city.

    So there were road closures and people were lined up 4 – 6 deep along the roadside from the cruise terminal right round the waterfront for a couple of k’s, and when we got into the city it was pretty much empty. Guide Victoria told us that Antonio Banderas comes back to Malaga every year and takes part in the procession, he’s a very staunch Legion member and loves his home city, has an apartment in the centre. Some of the floats in the parade are pulled or carried by 200 people.

    First stop was 14th century Gibralfaro castle (means mountain of light) built to protect the Alcazaba fortress below though in fact the area had been known for almost 3000 years and pretty much every conqueror had a piece of the action from the Phoenicians (they probably called it Malac ‘to salt’ as this was the fish-salting industry on the river), Romans, Moors and everyone in-between. It dominates the skyline above the city, interesting to look at different architecture of the houses along the winding-upwards streets which reflected investment in the city by various industrialists in the 19th century I think – some came from France so French architecture, Germany and German architecture etc, very well kept and with great views too. We had a look in the small museum but the main thing was the views. We could see our ship and the crowds of people below waiting for the statue, there’s the bullring (big bullfights coming up this evening), huge cathedral and the Alcazaba fortress, the city spread out on the flat and on the hills. Back in history the hills were completely bare of vegetation, a safety point to deter invaders. We walked around the walls (the photos show it all), I saw a couple of squirrels but they didn’t stay still for a photo, they’re so cute. Also saw green parrots in the palm trees at another spot, lots of noise. One quite open area against a slope has what looks like a stone stage and in summer is used for open air concerts, there are trees around it and gardens so it would be a lovely venue.

    Second stop was the Alcazaba itself, sprawled below the castle and built between the 11th and 14th century. Walked from the bus through what will be very pretty rose gardens in a few weeks, fountains, perfume of orange trees. We took a lift up to the Alcazaba, came out in one of several peaceful courtyards open to the sky, small pool in the middle, sheltered areas on four sides, small gardens. The design apparently came from towns being settled by traditionally itinerant people who had to be safe so by having open courtyards, water, nature in their houses they were trying to mimic freedom.

    We walked through gardens, high stone walls, pretty doorways, all the time going gently downwards to road level, very easy – and a pity about the people coming into the fort who had to climb up the hill rather than take the lift. We were told that the fort had been ‘restored’ and settled by civilians from the 18th century but in 1933 a proper excavation and restoration began, the archaeology investigated and has become a major tourist attraction – though it’s not really original now and little extras have been added here and there like early Roman columns at either side of the entrance to one of the courtyards, and marble shields with a water fountain ‘just because we can’.

    At the bottom of the hill we stopped briefly at the Roman theatre, built in the 1st century BC and ‘discovered’ in 1951, eventually excavated via demolition of buildings on site and opened up in 2011 – performances are held regularly and it seats 220 people.

    By this time the statue had obviously been brought ashore and stored safely because the town was heaving, really busy, we traipsed through the narrow streets to a tapas bar and just as well the ship had reservations because every bar, café and restaurant was full inside and out. We had two tapas (ham and cheese croquette and a delicious mix of potato, tuna and mayonnaise), one drink and then…..wish I could upload videos because entertainment was a group of uni students dressed in costume, playing and singing several songs. Unexpected and very good especially a small young man who opened his mouth and a full opera voice came out, amazing.

    We had 20 minutes free time back at the main town square so we walked down to the outside of the cathedral which is huge (you can see it in the panoramic photo), and had lines of people waiting to go in with it being Holy Thursday, and even the hospital had decorations above the door (nothing like that at Nelson Hospital, though maybe the annual Christmas tree in the lobby does the same thing).

    Back on board Pete did the washing and drying, I had a pedicure which I think was a fair division of labour, we forced ourselves to have high tea again, late dinner then 9.15 went to the second show by Britt Lenting, equally good with a bit more about her career and she finished with ‘This is Me’ from The Greatest Showman’, I love that song (and Hugh Jackman……) https://brittlenting.com/

    We got back to our room just after 10pm and in time to see the Rock of Gibraltar on the horizon, the moon and lights were perfect. What more did we need to end another great day, and to say goodbye to Spain as we head north towards Portugal and an afternoon in Porto on Saturday?

    And I'll load more photos in the next entry.
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  • More photos from Malaga

    6 aprile 2023, Spagna ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    More photos from Malaga, a very pretty city centre with so much history, and right by the sea,

  • All at sea

    7 aprile 2023, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    AT SEA DAY - 7/4
    First of all the clocks went back an hour at midnight – Pete had decided to have a look at the nightlife which he said was pretty quiet (80+ people go to bed) and he said it was funny because we were obviously at sea between Gibraltar/southern Spain and Morocco and suddenly his phone beeped and it was Spark telling him ‘You’re in Morocco and roaming rates don’t apply’, then it went back to Spanish time. I’ve since found out that Franco changed the time in Spain to an hour ahead but Portugal, despite neither country moving anywhere, is still the same as UK time. Tricky.

    Here are a few things I’ve thought about over the last day or two:

    We’ve seen the famous Caixa bank symbol around different towns, well known because it was designed by famous artist Joan Miro – I think it looks like a starfish but it’s actually a person dropping coins into the bank.

    I downloaded an app that translates text from a photo, so far it’s a bit hit and miss but I’m getting to grips with it once you can get past the embedded advertising. Quite useful though for plaques on historic places such as the cannons we saw yesterday which were all about beating the English (I think).
    I’ve put in a photo of one of the lovely Norwegian national costumes – on the third floor there’s a little museum and a set of models in costume, all very pretty too.

    I treated myself to a pedicure on Thursday, asked the young woman about on board conditions – they share ‘inside’ cabins, two to a room so not totally crowded. Meals are similar to the passengers’ but not so much choice.

    I hadn’t said that in all cabins we have an interactive TV which (when in range) has BBC, CNN, Discovery and a few other channels. Otherwise there’s a good range of movies, TV box sets, documentaries, music, videos of Viking destinations. It’s also loaded with our own personal information such as what excursions we’re booked on, any other things we might have booked such as spa treatments (pedicure tomorrow!) and our account of any expenses we’ve incurred aboard. There’s a weather forecast, a ship tracker, bridge cam which is good when going in and out of port if you can’t see from your cabin.

    Breakfast Tuesday morning was interesting. I decided to have an omelette which was prepared on the spot. It took forever and when finished it looked like the egg had been cracked, given a slight swirl, cooked for a while then served – pretty much looked like a flat fried egg. Must have been a learner chef, should have put Pete behind the counter, he makes great omelettes. On the other hand they serve individual eggs benedict on a piping hot little saucer to keep it hot in the cabinet, soft fluffy half-bun, crispy bacon and a perfect poached egg on top. Add your own hollandaise. Delicious.

    And breakfast Friday – someone had been taking lessons, a good effort on the omelette today. Definitely a first world problem, we’re lucky to be here.

    Viking calls itself something like ‘the thinking person’s cruise’ with no kids, no hard sell art, lots of ‘culture’ with a resident historian, astronomer and a couple of other resident somethings. We went to a talk Thursday late PM about Isabella and Ferdinand, and this morning there was a talk about azulejos which are beautiful tiles, traditional Portuguese, mainly dating back to the 16th century but with input from different cultures around Europe and the Middle East. It was just over half an hour, great photos of extremely colourful tiles all over the outside and inside of buildings, maybe a bit over the top for my taste though. We’ll look forward to seeing them in Porto tomorrow. And this afternoon the talk was about wine making, beautiful photos and very interesting especially since Pete has been ‘sampling’ red wine in a few tapas bars.

    Here are a few random photos, some with a tile theme since that was the history talk of the day.
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  • In port in Porto in Portugal

    8 aprile 2023, Portogallo ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    8/4 Our short visit to Porto, Portugal’s second-largest city. We docked at Leixoes, a few km from the city itself but it was all built-up anyway, driving through on the bus. We just took the included excursion which was okay though difficult for all excursions because of it being an Easter holiday so lots of visitors as well as major roadworks going on building an underground train network I think so all credit to the bus driver because the streets are narrow, several turned into one-way, and for some reason there was a lot of double-parking in the streets so I think the driver had to hold his breath and hope for the best in some places. The guide was Porto born and bred, very good.

    We took the scenic route into the city along the waterfront, lovely beaches and blue sea. Stopped in a central square so we could have a 20 minute walk around which was good because I wanted some cough mixture and there was a pharmacy right there. We were beside a small green park with a small bar, grass and very old olive trees, apparently the site of the city’s medieval olive grove that has been preserved – with a twist! Underneath is a new, small shopping mall, partly open to the sky where they’ve made a cut in the olive grove. Quite strange, but it was pretty all the same. We walked past the entryway to a public building with a huge stone ball suspended from the roof, pleased it didn’t fall on Pete.

    This mall led to another square and to the famous Lello and Irmao bookshop which was where JK Rowling started writing the Harry Potter books. There was a queuing race outside and dozens lined up to go inside, numbers very strictly policed, I wasn’t tempted, but the photo cribbed from the history talk shows how lovely it looks. The guide talked about whether the books used elements of the bookshop in descriptions, and also said that the students from the nearby university could often be seen wearing capes around the square – did that translate to Hogwarts perhaps?

    We carried on driving but it was hard to see much out the bus windows. And it was a bit hard to hear at times because of certain yappy people on the bus who had loud conversations over top of the commentary. So annoying. The guide gave us the city’s history, pointed out important buildings, and apologised again for the roading situation, but you just take it as it is. We could see a few of the tiled buildings, he pointed out that a lot of the tiling has been added in later years (20th century) when people realised they helped keep out the damp. The cathedral is apparently very ‘imposing’ and beautiful but we didn’t go near it, and the railway station is completely covered inside by tile stories. Didn’t notice many police around other than two officers on horseback in one street. Around the city there are traditional ‘English’ Gentlemen’s clubs still in use. I was interested that the guide kept referring to classes, both in the past and present day; a lot of references to upper, middle, lower classes which struck me as a bit odd. And it made me pleased to think that in NZ we don’t really have that huge divide, maybe to a small extent but this was really obvious.

    We saw some of the old city walls, some up high but many along the Douro riverfront with deep and high arches leading into back streets or big courtyards, apparently some would have been entrances to warehouses and named accordingly e.g. ‘coal street’ etc. Across the river you can see the big port (alcohol, not shipping) company warehouses and other buildings, mostly English names.

    There are six big bridges over the river, we could only see one side of the famous bridge built by Gustave Eiffel before he headed to Paris to see about a tower. The metal bridge in the photo, you can see a round tower at the top of the cliff, this was used by the Duke of Wellington as a base – I couldn’t quite work out if it used to be a monastery and was converted to barracks for the Duke, or was built as barracks and is now a monastery. Never mind. About half the group went their own way but the rest of us stuck with the guide walking along the riverbank then back through some small narrow streets to the meeting point, much more interesting to hear about the area’s history and more about Porto than to wander aimlessly in tourist territory surrounded by fridge magnets and handbags and cafes, learning nothing much.

    Back ‘home’ we were greeted by a parade of ship’s crew holding red umbrellas, chorus of ‘welcome back, welcome back’ and loud music, odd but fun all the same. Rushed to the theatre in time to hear most of the talk on the age of discovery and global exploration from early times through to Columbus, Vasco da Gama and so on. We went to a later one supposedly about ‘Fact or Fiction: Falmouth and Literary Cornwall’ which sounded quite wide-ranging (think smugglers and ‘Rebecca’) but it turned out to be just Poldark which was okay but not as expected. I had a much-needed sleep after that.

    We had booked (for free) at Manfredi’s Italian restaurant for dinner, one of the two ‘posh’ restaurants, and we had a delicious meal and wine, great waiter Enzo looked after us, from Peru. The people next door asked about how long he’d been on the ship, conditions etc: this was his second trip, Viking had better accommodation, food, conditions and great pay – he was making as much as, for instance, a doctor, would make in Peru. Has a wife and 7-month-old child back home, very proud to show us their photo.

    Then it was time for the 9.15pm show, songs and stories from Assistant Cruise Director Francesca, who had a magnificent operatic voice but also crossover so very entertaining with a variety of songs and she was well worth listening to.

    Back in our room we found the Easter Bunny had visited – or was still there: a chocolate bunny in a basket and some eggs.
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  • At sea again

    9 aprile 2023, Celtic Sea ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    9/4 – a day at sea………oops, a bit of a glitch with the time zones. Pete set the alarm for 7.15, planning to have breakfast and go to the history talk at 9.30. BUT his phone decided to be extra-clever and reset itself to Spanish time when we passed by the northern part of Spain so we were up extra early on our second ‘lazy’ day at sea. No trouble making it to the talk at 9.30 about the Bayeux Tapestry with Dr Fenella Bazin who is the ship’s resident historian, and to her second talk at 2.30 about how four nations became the United Kingdom. Pete also went to one in-between about Stonehenge, full house at the theatre he said – and the conclusion is, it wasn’t the druids!

    We had an interesting chat to Dr Fenella and her husband Michael later in the café, a lovely couple well into their 80’s I’d say. She has been the historian since 2015 when Viking first started out so they’ve sailed all over. She comes from the Isle of Man.

    Regarding the Bayeux tapestry, of course it depicts Vikings in it’s story and all of the Viking cruise ships have large panels taken from the tapestry in each stairwell, probably five times life-size. Dr Fenella pointed out that the colours around the ship are taken from the tapestry – the blues, browns, ochre etc – and some of the patterns echo the tapestry as well.

    Looking again at the demographics on the ship, a week on (and where has that time gone?), we’ve concluded that we haven’t seen one single dark face amongst the passengers, there’s a smattering of Asian passengers but the demographic is overwhelmingly white, grey-haired, and probably over 75, and there’s a bit of botox employed in some of the faces. We’d say maybe a dozen under about 30 on the ship, and possibly just 10% under 50. As far as the crew goes, they come from everywhere. So far we know of: UK, USA, South Africa, Zimbabwe, Kenya, Peru, India, Vietnam, Thailand, Ukraine, Russia, Argentina, Azerbaijan, China …………and it’s too late to think of any of the others we’ve come across. A real rainbow nation looking after us.

    Each night the show kicks off with this song being played really loudly, it’s very catchy, I had to google it – have a listen (skip the ads at the start). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RIZdjT1472Y.

    Tonight it was the resident band and four singers/dancers with a round-up of popular songs from the 50’s, 60’s and 70’s, definitely singing along to those ones.

    As I upload this the ship tracker tells us we're west of Brittany and the island of Ushant. Tomorrow we hit the UK and expect wet weather for two days, let’s see what happens.
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  • Pirates

    10 aprile 2023, Inghilterra ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    10/4 Falmouth, Cornwall – woke early to see the white lighthouse floating by, then we could see St Mawes across the river with its castle, and then tied up in Falmouth. All passengers had to present passports to British Immigration so we had a strict order, our group was last so all filed across the stage in front of five officers, showed our passports to one of them and got looked at closely, then had a red dot put on our ship ID card, handed passports to the crew and we were able to leave. We’ll get the passports back on Wednesday when we get back into EU territory.

    It was a free morning, hadn’t quite decided what to do but saw a lovely pirate offering a history tour at 11am so told him we’d be back, went for a short walk to the St Mawes Ferry and spent 20 minutes each way across and back St Mawes/Falmouth. It was a bit lumpy crossing the River Fal, or in fact the Carrick Roads which is the third deepest natural harbour in the world after Sydney and ??not sure of the second. Rumour has it if Scotland leaves the UK they will be looking for a new submarine base….Falmouth looks promising!

    We stayed on board due to timing but the little trip was worth it, it’s a pretty little town with white houses strung along the shore and slopes, St Mawes Castle on the headland where apparently Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn once stayed. There were three crazy people swimming, we saw them strip off, jump in and pretty quickly jump out again, one went back for a second dive then out.

    https://www.falmouthuncovered.co.uk/
    The tour with Pirate Will started at the Killigrew monument, a granite pyramid in the middle of a pretty little green park, across from what was once the home of John Killigrew then his descendants (all called John) who were initially pirates…….no, actually the more polite privateers…….who had a licence to rob and plunder from their base in rural Falmouth. Then in 1613 Sir Walter Raleigh came to visit and suggested to John K 4 ‘why don’t you build a town and set up a shipping/trade/hospitality base’ and by 1615 there were four pubs and it was on the way.

    Falmouth then in 1688 became the base for the famous Packet Boats that carried mail to and from England initially to Spain and then all around the world, lasting until 1850 when steam power took over. Mail would arrive in Falmouth and be transported by ‘fast’ coach and horses to London or wherever, to London it took about five days. We heard that the Packet captains who transported gold took 1% of the value and could earn up to 20,000 pounds per year at that time, an enormous sum, but was danger money because there were still pirates.

    Falmouth grew and grew and it was a popular place to go, Beatrix Potter visited in the late 1890’s and said that the menus were written in five languages. There were consulates for many countries and the travel/history writer Philip Marsden said in one book it was a ‘town of outsiders’. Now there’s a university so more ‘incomers’ are welcomed. In the 1930s the town was full of little narrow streets, slums in some parts and there was a big clearance which opened up the town (though it wasn’t universally popular and in some cases not necessary) and now there are houses from that era hard up against Georgian, Victorian and brand-new builds, quite a mix, with some very pretty areas especially as you get away from the original waterside village.

    We climbed up above the river, had a good view from the old cemetery – another story about when the hillside collapsed and the road was covered in old coffins and skeletons. Will lives in the converted Quaker Hall and popped into his flat to pick up his accordion, sat on the wall for a couple of minutes and gave us a tune. He did a great job on the tour, enjoyed himself, not too wordy but made history come alive. As we walked down he told us a few stories about townsfolk and what they got up to, a tale of cannibalism in a shipwreck, a captive musician………..90 minutes very well spent.

    The town main street was much busier on the way back to the ship, lots of visitors on a public holiday and every second one had a dog. SO MANY dogs, big, small, well-controlled, underfoot, shops with notices saying ‘Dogs welcome’ – I think okay outside but not inside. They were everywhere and the narrow main street was really busy. We picked up a Cornish pasty to take back, sat on our balcony and I thought of my dad. He was a champion pasty maker, never forgotten.

    In the afternoon we did a bus tour around the area, it was a squished bus, a bit hard to see a lot but it was interesting all the same, the guide was very informative and we got lots of history, stories about the places we saw and a couple of stops. There was a howling gale blowing, faces just about got sandblasted at the beach, I was taking a photo of Pete looking back at St Michael’s Mount and he just about lost THE HAT – which, as we all know, he doesn’t venture out without, and he’s got a strap to pull out in case of a high wind. Then it happened, the strap snapped, hat nearly went flying. That was close!

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St_Michael's…

    Anyway, back to the tour. We heard about Ralph’s Cupboard, one of many caves in the cliffs, Ralph was a giant who captured people stored them in the cave until he ate them. The tide was out so we could see people walking across the causeway to St Michael’s Mount, we’d done that in 2013 when we stayed in Penzance with Jen, it’s a beautiful little island and house. There was so much gorse on the hills, I asked if it was a noxious week like in NZ but the guide said ‘oh no, we like it, sometimes it gets burnt off but not often’. There were spring blossoms on the trees, I saw a couple of paddocks full of daffodils ready for picking, even saw a couple of calves with their mums. There were a few swimmers and surfers on the beaches, lots of craggy cliffs.

    And of course we can't forget the mining history of Cornwall, with abandoned mine chimneys and buildings across the hills and all around the countryside, hard to believe they went down more than 3000 feet in some cases, and well out under the sea. It's hard to imagine the life of miners, and how brave they were too in mostly awful conditions.

    So that was our short stay in lovely Cornwall, we’d like to go back again, there’s so much to see.

    I should say that there may be different photos on my Facebook page if you want to have a look. Thanks for reading my thoughts about our trip.
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  • Portsmouth - a morning in port

    11 aprile 2023, Inghilterra ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    11/4 – Part 1 – Portsmouth overview
    We were early into Portsmouth, sailed in quietly and I looked out just in time to see an aircraft carrier and another of the several Royal Navy ships in port, this being home to two thirds of the UK’s surface fleet, and an important base for many centuries. There’s a lot to see, far more than a morning allows so we knew the overview bus tour included in the tour would be useful. I’d love to have seen the Mary Rose and Victory but maybe another time? No visit to the Victory but we did see plenty to do with Admiral Nelson such as his statue in the old port area, Portchester Castle in the distance, church where the king married Catherine of Braganza, and the Victorian Fort Nelson up on the hills above the town. And the guide’s brother coincidentally happens to live in Nelson, New Zealand.

    Unfortunately it was another squished bus, 38 people and quite hard to see but the commentary was pretty much non-stop, I’ll never remember it all but it was fascinating all the same. I’ve attached the Wikipedia link in case you want a lot of detail. Most of the city is built on Portsea Island and there are a series of harbours, historical defences including four concrete constructions/forts just out to sea (one of which is now a hotel), huge long brick walls around the naval establishments, centuries-old sea and defence walls. Henry VII built the world’s first drydock in 1496, still in existence though rebuilt in later years. The Vikings were here, the French have attacked time and again, the Spanish had a go, and the Germans, all driven off. And although extensively bombed in WW2 the city was the HQ for the planning of the D-Day landings

    We drove through the town and up along the long ridge, Portsdown Hill, above the town which has great views showing the extent of the harbour. It also has a series of Victorian forts which include Fort Nelson which contains the Royal Armouries Museum. There’s also a fake ship, or the top half of what looks to be a ship, visible on the skyline which is used for various practices by the military. Going a bit further into the country we passed through a couple of very pretty villages which had some flint cottages, thatched cottages, narrow roads, very ‘chocolate box’. We could see Southwick House near here, Eisenhower’s HQ, and the pub where he and Churchill would go at lunchtime for a break and informal talks. The house is still occupied by the military even now, and the family are aiming to finally get it back though they have their land and farms around it.

    We had a couple of brief stops to have a look at ancient walls, a cannon, the site of the Mary Rose’s capsize on her first voyage (top-heavy, all hands lost, and now recovered and a famous archaeological site), and a huge tank landing craft from D-Day which had been (of all things) turned into a nightclub somewhere up north, sunk and was recovered and brought to Portsmouth. The chain link statue is a memorial to the emigrants to Australia, a kind of sister-city thing, and there’s also a memorial on the nearby wall with poppies, plaques, Australian flag.

    And fun fact – windsurfing was invented at Hayling Island by a boy called Peter and his dad who had a surfboard and fixed a small sail to it, there were photos in the paper and quite a write-up. A few years later a big company tried to take out a patent for windsurf boards (if that’s what they are called), claiming it was their invention, but got thrown out of court because of all the evidence against them.

    A busy morning, ready for lunch and then on to Arundel Castle in the afternoon – see the next entry, too many photos for just one entry. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portsmouth
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  • Arundel castle

    11 aprile 2023, Inghilterra ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    11/4 – Part 2 – Arundel Castle – afternoon tour from Portsmouth
    Many years ago my sister Kaye and I read a series of books by Elsie J Oxenham, the ‘Abbey School Series’ published by Collins with distinctive pale blue or red binding, and by other publishers with bright pictures of jolly schoolgirls having adventures on their covers. They followed the lives of cousins Joan and Joy Shirley, their family and friends, and were set in an old abbey (based on Cleve Abbey in Somerset which we’ve visited), a manor house and………a castle. The castle in the book is called Kentisbury and it’s based on the beautiful Arundel Castle which is 45 minutes away from Portsmouth so I wasn’t going to pass up a chance to visit.

    Off we went, a group of 25, to the home of the Howard family, the Duke of Norfolk, most senior non-royal duke, who is busy in his hereditary role as Earl Marshal of England, currently responsible for planning King Charles’ coronation – he’s had a busy time lately with the Queen’s funeral, and the Duke of Edinburgh’s before that. The castle build was started in 1067, has been in the same family since 1138, has had many alterations and additions, is open to the public from April to September (too hard to heat for the rest of the year), and the family lives in houses around the estate, not actually in the castle itself.

    At the gatehouse there was a pretty display of tulips and spring flowers, they are getting ready for the annual tulip festival and all around the grounds and on the slopes below the castle walls are apparently 100,000 tulip bulbs, what a sight that’ll be in a couple of weeks, there’s a bit of colour already coming out. There are also beds of daffodils, I’d never seen white daffodils before, and pink blossoms coming out.

    We started in the huge private chapel, the start of a feast of beautiful stained glass throughout the house, I love all the colours and stories in the windows. The chapel is used by the family for special occasions, and the family christening gowns are in a display case. We were able to visit several rooms, too many to detail, but included an enormous ‘great hall’ which had a couple of lion skin rugs in front of the huge stone fireplaces, and even two beautifully painted snow sledges and an old and well-used sedan chair but even so you could see the lovely silk lining. It wasn’t very big so the users were either quite small or very squashed.

    There was a picture gallery stretching the whole width of that part of the castle, little seating nooks looking out onto the ‘motte and bailey’ castle keep on top of the original hand-built ‘hill’ now in the midst of the gardens, a beautifully set up dining room with the family china and silver displayed, a billiard room (once a bedroom) with a huge billiard table taking up almost all the room, Queen Victoria’s bedroom (specially decorated for her three-day visit). My favourite room was the library, the photo shows only half of it, very ‘Harry Potter-ish with dark wood and sumptuous upholstery, glass-fronted book cases, cosy seating areas along one wall, some with fireplaces. It was lovely. We could only look around one main level, then down to the servants area though not in the kitchens. There were big solid black radiators on the walls and the castle was surprisingly warm, the heating bill must be horrific, no wonder they close in winter.

    We had two hours to look through the castle, the extensive gardens if we wanted, and had time to visit the second chapel which is unusual in that half is a Catholic chapel on the castle side, and there’s a huge semi-opaque glass window in the middle which divides it from the Anglican parish church on the other side, no way through for tourists. It dates back to the 1300s and is partly a mausoleum for the family with stone effigies, but also has a huge stained glass window and beautifully carved seats. I took a photo of the ceiling, very detailed carved faces looking down on us.

    Having spent nearly 90 minutes in the castle we had about ten minutes in the chapel and when we came out it was raining so headed back to the bus and were back on the road by 4pm. We walked back through the ‘dry moat’ (actually a bit sticky underfoot with the rain), could see some of the gardens but it would take a day to see everything in and around the castle and town. Maybe we’ll get back here one day.

    And I have to say that Kaye still has the books and I dip into them every now and again, more than 55 years on. Maybe we never really grow up?
    https://www.arundelcastle.org/castle-history/

    Back on the ship we just made it to the daily ‘Port Talk’ giving information about our next destination, we were looking forward to Wednesday 12th, a full day ‘In the Footsteps of Monet’ taking us to his house and garden in Giverny (and the famous waterlily ponds) and on to Rouen .......BUT…….the announcement was that French ports were closed due to strikes, and we would have to spend the day at sea as there were no other ports to take us, plus the weather wasn’t great, so we would aim for a whole day in Bruges on the 13th rather than arriving at 1pm. Great, and having been to lovely Bruges in 2004 we chose a morning tour to a coastal village, confirmed our afternoon tour outside of Bruges to a castle and that was Thursday sorted.

    The evening’s entertainment was a pool party: the two Filipino nightclub singers, the four resident singer/dancers and the resident band were all in top form, had a couple of songs from Francesca (classically trained/crossover singer) the assistant cruise director. We even had a bit of a dance, the music was great. Finished around 1130pm, oldies go to bed early.
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