Comuna 13 and Arvi

Today we headed up to the number one tourist 'attraction' in Medellín, Comuna 13. It is a neighbourhood, or rather set of neighbourhoods which were considered the most dangerous in Medellín in the 80s, and Medellín in turn, was considered the most dangerous city in the world. Strategically located to bring things in and out of the city, Comuna 13 was home to some of the biggest drug cartels, paramiltay groups and guerrilla groups that used the area to move weapons and cocaine. Violence in the areas was rife as the gangs vived for control of the streets and kept order via their own ruthless code of honour. Car bombs, shootings, kidnappings and outright war were commonplace in the area, not the most sensible district for toutsist to go wandering around in you might think.

However, the area has been through and extraordinary change in the last 15 years. The government eventually sent in huge waves of soldiers to try and oust the entrenched gangs. Following a bloody street battle that left hundreds dead, injured or in custody, the government prevailed and was able to remove the worst of the criminals.This was the impotus that allowed the residents to rise up and demand change. With the help of government funding the younger generations, rather than falling into the tempting world of gang life, focused their energy in the form of art. Music and Murals replaced the sounds gunfire and views of cracked brick walls. Guns and violence were slowly replaced by spray cans and street performers.

Today the area is very safe, with thousands or tourists flocking every week to see the colourful murals, live music and ride the outdoor escalators that were installed to help the residents move around the hillside neighbourhood.

After being in the city we headed to see some nature in the parc Arvi. The cable cars, which form part of the city's transport network, took us further than we expected and we found ourselves riding above trees and seeing only nature! What a surprise so close to the city. We didn't stay long, just time to try a nice empanada and a waffle sandwich with arequipe (dulce de leche) in the middle 🤤

We enjoyed our time in Medellín, a city with a lot of different atmospheres, but we're ready to continue our trip in a quieter place!Read more