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- Jour 103
- lundi 25 juillet 2016
- ⛅ 24 °C
- Altitude: 2 065 m
PérouMachu Picchu13°10’40” S 72°33’44” W
Salkantay Trek, Peru - Day 3 (photos)

More photos from Day 3.
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- Jour 103
- lundi 25 juillet 2016
- ☀️ 25 °C
- Altitude: 2 067 m
PérouMachu Picchu13°10’37” S 72°33’50” W
Salkantay Trek, Peru - Day 3 (photos)

More photos from Day 3.
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- Jour 103
- lundi 25 juillet 2016
- ⛅ 25 °C
- Altitude: 2 234 m
PérouMachu Picchu13°10’45” S 72°33’47” W
Salkantay Trek, Peru - Day 3

We awoke again to coca tea served by the porters. We were so deep in sleep that the porters had to unzip our tent to wake us up. I’m really loving this coca tea! It perks me up right away. We spent the first few hours of the morning learning how to harvest the fruit off the local coffee plantation and turn them into roasted coffee beans. They even brewed us a pot of coffee to taste the fruit of our labour.
Today’s trek would be a short one. We would get to our camp for the night at about 2pm, just in time for lunch. First up, we would have to hike for about 2-3 hours uphill along an original Inca trail which would lead us to the first site of the Lost City of the Incas. The Llactapata Inca site was never discovered by the Spanish after it was abandoned by the Incans and therefore was not destroyed. We had a view of Machu Picchu ruins, Huayna Picchu and Machu Picchu mountains from here. Historians gather than Llactapata served as a resting place for Incans travelling along the Inca trails. They have found ruins almost every 20km along Incan trails, about the distance one would cover walking for a whole day. This was where travellers could rest and eat before carrying on with their journey.
Our camp was only a 20 mins trek from this site. This campsite was the most established we have seen on this trek. There was a basic restaurant, toilet facilities and an incredible large campground with views of Machu Picchu and the surrounding mountains. We spent the afternoon playing cards and before long, happy hour consisting of the usual hot popcorn and tea was served. Surprisingly, I was able to get some reception here to send some text messages to Aaron. I wish he could see what I was seeing.
Dinner was extra special tonight. It was Rachel’s birthday and the chef had specially baked a cake for her. That’s right – a cake. How one would bake a cake with only a portable gas stove and a pot is beyond me. The chef did a stellar job. I had a huge chunk of the chocolate cake and it was delicious! Needless to say, Rachel was absolutely blown away. She had also convinced our guide to collect firewood for a campfire earlier on so we got to enjoy our cake in front of a roaring campfire.
The guide spent the night telling us folklore from the highlands where he was born. They worship the mountains. He told us of scary tales of lost souls trying to snatch hikers in the mountains. By the time the fire burnt out, it was past 10pm and I was freaked out. I was really looking forward to tomorrow when I would see Aaron again.En savoir plus
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- Jour 102
- dimanche 24 juillet 2016
- ☀️ 30 °C
- Altitude: 2 539 m
PérouSanta Teresa13°14’7” S 72°37’22” W
Salkantay Trek, Peru - Day 2 (photos)

More photos from Day 2.
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- Jour 102
- dimanche 24 juillet 2016
- ⛅ 23 °C
- Altitude: 1 894 m
PérouCerro Lorohuacana12°34’30” S 72°31’19” W
Salkantay Trek, Peru - Day 2 (photos)

More photos from Day 2.
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- Jour 102
- dimanche 24 juillet 2016
- ☀️ 20 °C
- Altitude: 2 469 m
PérouSanta Teresa13°13’44” S 72°37’18” W
Salkantay Trek, Peru - Day 2

At about 5.30am, the porters woke us up with a cup of hot coca tea. My tent buddy also struggled to get a good night’s rest and we were both groggy and tired. Once we got out of our tent and saw the glacier peaks and cloud forest, we were re-invigorated. By this time, we had grown to expect nothing less than amazing from our meals. The chef did not disappoint with breakfast.
Today was all about the downhill climb. Slowly but surely, the Salkantay glacier peaks disappeared behind us and we were enveloped in lush, green cloud forest. There were birds and flowers to see. After what seemed like an eternity of trekking, we came across a very small local village. A tarp was laid out on the grass at the end of the village where we could relax before lunch. We would have had the option to enjoy a thermal bath but it was destroyed in a landslide back in March this year.
We were given the option of hiking after lunch for another 6 hours to get to our campsite, or hiking for 3 hours and taking the bus to the campsite. We chose the latter as parts of the trek were also damaged by the landslide and we would have had to trek along the bus road anyway. And who were we kidding – our feet were really sore from already hiking more than 20km in less than 2 days.
By now, we were trekking in a different micro-climate: it was warm and rather humid in some areas. The ground was sometimes moist which suited me just fine as I had already slipped on loose dry soil earlier in the day. We passed by cows lying in the sun and wondered how on earth they got there. The only way was on the walking path we were on and it seemed too narrow and steep in some parts.
We crossed some bridges that were questionable at best. From afar, they looked like they were made of hay. Up close, they didn’t look any better. Just don’t look down, I told myself. To get to the bus pick-up point, we had to cross a final bridge to get to the road on the other side of the valley. We survived that but were met with an intense uphill climb for the next 15 minutes. It was hard going and pretty hairy.
We were early. The bus wasn’t there yet. There was only a ute parked on the roadside. The guide started talking to the driver whom he must have recognised. Afterwards, he told us to get in the ute as they could not find a bus on a Sunday. Let’s see, there were 8 of us plus the guide and the driver, which makes 10 people in total. It was a dual cab ute which technically could fit 5, maybe 6 people. But when in Peru, you pile everyone else in the tray! I was one of the 5 in the tray for the hour-long bumpy journey but it was all giggles. It reminded me of being back in Indonesia where sitting in the back of a ute was an adventure for us kids.
We spent the night at a local coffee farm. There were other campers that had also set up their tents. The best part of this campsite was that there was hot shower! We stayed up for a little bit playing cards so our food could digest better this time. The night was cool but unlike the previous night. This time it was very pleasant to sleep in and we all slept like babies through the night.En savoir plus
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- Jour 101
- samedi 23 juillet 2016
- 🌧 23 °C
- Altitude: 4 423 m
PérouMollepata13°20’43” S 72°36’9” W
Salkantay Trek, Peru - Day 1 (photos)

More photos from Day 1.
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- Jour 101
- samedi 23 juillet 2016
- 🌙 25 °C
- Altitude: 4 651 m
PérouMollepata13°20’8” S 72°34’20” W
Salkantay Trek, Peru - Day 1 (photos)

More photos from Day 1.
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- Jour 101
- samedi 23 juillet 2016
- ☀️ 23 °C
- Altitude: 5 105 m
PérouNevado Salcantay13°20’11” S 72°33’37” W
Salkantay Trek, Peru - Day 1 (photos)

More photos from Day 1.
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- Jour 101
- samedi 23 juillet 2016
- ☀️ 29 °C
- Altitude: 4 907 m
PérouNevado Humantay13°21’13” S 72°36’11” W
Salkantay Trek, Peru - Day 1

For the next 5 days, Flora will be a trek through the Salkantay mountain to Machu Picchu. Much to Aaron’s disappointment, he will not be able to join the trek as he still needs to rest his lung. The plan is for Aaron to take a train to a little town near Machu Picchu called Aguas Calientes on the 4th night.
The trek starts with a 4:30am pick-up from the hotel. All that I would need to get through the trek is in a duffel bag and a backpack. After 3 hours on the bus, we arrived at Soraypampa where breakfast was waiting for us. It felt so surreal sitting in a deep valley with a surprisingly good spread of food on a folding table. Over the next 5 days, this group of 8 trekkers would share so many unforgettable memories. We were in great hands. Our guide, 3 porters, 1 chef, 2 horsemen including horses and mules would ensure our trek was extra special.
After breakfast, we made our way along the Salkantay valley towards Salkantay Pass. We had unbeatable views of the Andes and its glacier-peaked mountains the entire time. Out of the 8 trekkers, 3 carried some serious DSLR cameras and multiple lenses. This was a photographer’s paradise. Our guide had a hard time shepherding us along the track. As soon as one person stopped to take a photo, the whole herd of sheep followed suit. You could hardly blame us – everywhere you look, you were captivated. Every now and then, you could hear an avalanche from the Salkantay glacier peak up above.
This hike was a lot harder than I thought it would be. The thin air at the high altitude was making every uphill step laborious. It was a real struggle to climb 10m uphill without feeling desperately short of breath. After a long 4 hours, we finally got to the highest point of the trek at Salkantay Pass with an altitude of 4670m. You should see the view from up here. Hopefully the photos give you some sort of an idea of how breath-taking this place is.
We descended for about an hour, crossing streams and waterfalls along the hillsides, until we got to our lunch site. The horses and our porters had overtaken us much earlier on in the trek, and raced ahead to set up camp for us. By the time we arrived, lunch was cooked and ready to be served. You would think the food would be subpar given the remote location of our camp but it was one of the best meals I’ve had in South America. It’s amazing what they can whip up with quinoa, potatoes, rice and chicken. Delicious!
We still had a long way ahead of us to reach our camp for the night. It was all downhill from here but it wasn’t as easy as you would think. The uphills were very steep and the downhills equally so. I’m so glad Aaron ordered these walking poles for me as I’d be landing face first or skittling downhill on my bum many a times. The sun had started to set and it was getting cold. The wind jacket was now back on. When we reached the campsite, it was nearly 0 degC and dropping. Once the sun had completely set behind the Andes, the cold was overwhelming. According to our guide, it was a warm night – probably around -8 degC. Warm indeed!
We were told to eat light as digestion is slow at this altitude. I was famished and ignored that advice. I crawled straight into my sleeping bag after a “shower” with wet wipes as the cold was unbearable. Where was my husband when you need someone to cuddle up to! It was a restless night. Between freezing into a popsicle and overheating due to the multiple layers of clothing I had on, I managed maybe 3-4 hours of sleep.En savoir plus
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- Jour 46
- dimanche 29 mai 2016
- ☀️ 26 °C
- Altitude: 214 m
PologneKraków Główny Railway Station50°3’53” N 19°56’42” E
Krakow

Yesterday’s trip to Auschwitz highlighted the atrocities within the concentration camps, but what about those that happened right in the heart of the city? Evil wasn’t always hidden in secluded places. We took a walking tour from Krakow Old Town to the nearby Jewish district of Kazimierz. This district was used to film scenes in Steven Spielberg’s movie Schindler’s List. The Jews were later exiled to a nearby district, Podgórze, which became known as the Krakow Ghetto.
The Krakow Ghetto was fortified by walls to keep its tens of thousands inhabitants trapped, and out of sight from the rest of the city. There was notably a Polish Roman Catholic pharmacist, Tadeusz Pankiewicz, who insisted on running his pharmacy within the ghetto walls. He would go on to help countless Jews up until the ghetto liquidation.
There is a section of the ghetto wall that still stands today. It now has a plaque on it in memory of those that perished within those walls. Did you know that Roman Polanski lived in and luckily escaped the Jewish Ghetto when he was a little boy? He got away by jumping into the Vistula River. His mother was unfortunately killed at Auschwitz. He turned down the offer to direct Schindler’s List as it was too painful for him.
At the end of the walking tour, we visited the Schindler’s Museum which is located at Schindler’s old factory. Whilst it didn’t have a lot of information on Oskar Schindler, it was overflowing with information on how the Holocaust came to Krakow. Well worth a visit if you’re in Krakow.En savoir plus
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- Jour 45
- samedi 28 mai 2016
- ⛅ 25 °C
- Altitude: 202 m
PologneOświęcim50°2’4” N 19°12’35” E
Auschwitz, Poland

Today we would devote most of the day to learning more about one of the biggest concentration camps run during WWII by the Nazis. As can be expected, this post will be quite depressing; but the atrocities of war and mankind cannot be forgotten, lest they are repeated. Skip ahead if this topic is too difficult to visit for now.
Auschwitz was initially built in 1940 to house Polish political prisoners but the SS thought it could provide the Final Solution to the Jew problems; by problems, they mean the existence of Jews. As the number of inmates grew, so did the camp. In 1941, Auschwitz II (Birkenau) was constructed just 3km away from Auschwitz I. This second camp was a lot larger and held approximately 100,000 prisoners by August 1944. There were 4 crematoria and gas chambers in this camp and this was where most of the mass killings were carried out. We visited both camps.
Jews from all over Europe were sent to Auschwitz by the thousands each day. By the time they arrived in Auschwitz, they would have spent days, if not weeks, without food or water. Naturally, a large number died during the journey. The ones that made it thus far were assembled outside of their train cars. They were told to leave their suitcases but to write their names on the cases so they can be retrieved later on. They were then separated into two groups. Healthy and able men were herded into one group and marched into the camp. The others, mainly women, children, the ill and old, were told to walk to another entrance into the camp.
The latter went into a room in the basement of a building which looked like change-rooms, where they were told to undress and remember the number on the hooks which they’d hung their clothes on so they can pick them up afterwards. They were to take a shower after their long journey. Naked and scared, they went into the next room which resembled a large bathroom. There were showers hanging from the ceiling; it was all going to be ok. They really were going to have a shower! The Nazis were methodical and brutal. The showers were never connected to a water supply. They were installed to alleviate fear in the Jews so as to prevent any resistance or panic. After the doors were firmly closed, SS guards poured a toxic substance called Cyclon B into the chamber through special openings in the ceiling. Within 15-20 minutes, they were dead.
Genocide was not enough for the SS. After the gassing, gold tooth fillings, rings, earrings and hair were removed from the bodies. They were then taken to the incinerators on the ground floor. The ashes were used as fertilizer, and for filling in nearby ponds or river beds. Why hair, you ask. They sold the human hair to German firms for tailor’s lining (haircloth).
The healthy men that escaped selection for the gas chamber were put through extremely unsanitary and unimaginable living conditions. They were subjected to beatings, slave labour and starvation. It did not matter if a Jew died – he was dispensable. If you want to read more about life in the concentration camps, I highly recommend a book written by an Auschwitz survivor, Primo Levi, called “If This is a Man.”
When the Nazis realised that they were losing the war to the advancing Red Army, they blew up the crematoria and gas chambers to conceal their criminal activities. They left the sick to die in the camp while tens of thousands Jews were forced to march to another camp to be further utilised as slave labour. Without food or proper clothes and footwear, most did not survive the Death March.
It was a very sobering day for us. And most of you are probably asking why we even went to Auschwitz. Apart from the fact that Flora has been morbidly fascinated by the evil that was the Holocaust since learning about it at the age of 15, we feel it is important to see up close what Man is capable of. Why did none of the SS soldiers who opposed the mass extermination of lives carry out their orders anyway? Only by attending these grounds can you get some understanding of the terror that the place and regime held. It was either kill or be killed. 1.5 million Jews died in Auschwitz alone. This number is likely to be a lot higher as most Jews that arrived at Auschwitz were never registered before they were sent marching to the gas chambers. There are hundreds of other such concentration camps, though perhaps not on as large a scale as Auschwitz. Such evil must never see the light of day again.En savoir plus

VoyageurElectric fence runs along the perimeter of the camp. Some prisoners chose to run into this fence to end their misery.

VoyageurAn original train car used to transport Jews and prisoners like cattle to the Auschwitz concentration camp. This was where they hopped off (if they were still alive from the long journey), and their fate decided for them - slave labour or gas chamber.
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- Jour 43
- jeudi 26 mai 2016
- ⛅ 22 °C
- Altitude: 175 m
HongrieGellért Hill47°29’11” N 19°3’0” E
Gellert Hill and Thermal Bath, Budapest

No visit to Budapest is complete until you’ve been to one of the city’s famed natural thermal baths. Lucky for us, the Gellert Thermal Bath was within walking distance from our accommodation, just on the Buda side of the Liberty bridge, at the foot of Gellert Hill. No better way to soothe our tired feet from hours of walking on end.
We had previously gone for a run up Gellert Hill to see the city from up the top. It is definitely worth the climb. We did, however, get weird stares from the people getting off the tour bus at the top.
Today was all about relaxation. The Gellert Bath is architecturally stunning. It is actually a Turkish bath built between 1912-1918 which was damaged in WWII and subsequently rebuilt. According to literature from the 13th century, the warm spring water has healing powers stemming from its rich minerals content. This bath, and other baths in Budapest, are used to treat degenerative joint illnesses as well as many other ailments.
The hot baths range from 35-40 degC. As we learnt, it is more than just warm. The thermal baths are decorated beautifully with mosaic tiles to give you the feel that you’ve gone back centuries in time. It was very therapeutic indeed, if you don’t think too much about the little black floaties in the water. Don’t ask too many questions.
This thermal bath is unique as it has a wave pool. Yes, one of the outdoor pools turns into a wave pool for a few minutes every hour, much to the delight of squealing patrons such as ourselves. We thought we would spend only a couple of hours here before getting bored, but we surprised ourselves. You can easily spend an entire day going in and out of the all the different pools plus relaxing by the poolside.En savoir plus
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- Jour 40
- lundi 23 mai 2016
- ⛅ 26 °C
- Altitude: 109 m
HongrieVörösmarty tér47°29’39” N 19°3’2” E
Budapest

We crossed the border into Hungary and arrived in its capital city, Budapest. Budapest is bisected into Buda and Pest by the River Danube. Our initial accommodation was in the Buda side but we had a slight issue with the host double-booking us so we had to move to another one of his apartments on the Pest side of the city. Despite the inconvenience and losing a few hours in the day, we were pleased that this apartment turned out to be a huge upgrade. We were in the heart of Pest and within walking distance to everything we wanted to see.
First, let me tell you a little bit about this city’s amazing history. Towards the end of WWII in December 1944, the Red Army launched a siege against the German-held Budapest, known as the Siege of Budapest. The Red Army sent more than one million soldiers to cut off Budapest from the rest of the German and Hungarian forces. What ensued was one of the bloodiest campaigns of WWII.
With the Red Army encircling Budapest, tens of thousands of soldiers from the German and Hungarian army, as well as more than 800,000 civilians, were trapped within the city. Adolf Hitler decreed that Budapest was a fortress city and was to be defended to the last man. Food shortages were common and the extreme cold froze the Danube, effectively ending the covert delivery of supplies via barges at night. As a result of this 108-day siege, 320,000 Red Army soldiers, 125,000 German-Hungarian soldiers and 105,000 civilians died.
Afterwards, Budapest lay in ruins, with more than 80% of its buildings destroyed or damaged. All seven bridges spanning the Danube were destroyed. Walking through the Old Town, you would never guess that this city endured such atrocities. Now rebuilt, the buildings are simply astounding. We were flabbergasted when we saw the city and even more so when we explored it.
The architecture, trams and general vibe of the city reminded us so much of Melbourne. We started with the Market Hall right by the Danube. Its sheer size was impressive. Inside, vendors sold everything from vegetables and meat to souvenirs and clothes. Everything was priced just so for us tourists. Being the tight arses that we are, we weren’t interested in getting ripped off so we walked around once and left.
We soon discovered that the food in other parts of the city was a great bargain (Flora does a happy dance). We gathered that the Hungarian diet included lots of meat and, boy, did they look delicious. Food was the cheapest we had seen in Europe so far and they definitely don’t skimp on the portions here! We had one of the best dinners here for a steal, right in the heart of the touristy area. We also caught up with Aunty Tina and Uncle Rob in Budapest. What were the chances of bumping into family on the other side of the world!
After walking aimlessly through the beautiful buildings in Old Town, we went for a walk along the Danube. Just before we got to the Parliament House, we came across a moving sculpture in memory of the Jews that were killed in the Danube. 60 pairs of cast iron period-appropriate shoes were fixed onto the Pest side of the Danube banks. Under the Nazis, a number of Budapest Jews were forced to take off their shoes along the Danube banks before being shot into the Danube.
Only a short distance away, the Parliament House that had been destroyed during the Siege of Budapest had been rebuilt. It is absolutely the most beautiful Parliament House we have ever seen anywhere in Australia or Europe. Budapest also offered free walking tours of the city but we sadly missed out as we found out about it too late. We explored the Jewish Quarter on our own but it would have been so much better having a local explain its history. We ended up in a Jewish food market, keen to taste their delicious looking burgers and hot dogs. Unfortunately, the photos on their menu looked a whole lot better than they tasted, which was not too different from cardboard.
On our last night in Budapest, we decided to go back to the Danube to take some night shots of the bridges. For our first time doing night photography, I think the photos turned out better than expected.En savoir plus

VoyageurShoes on the Danube bank to remember the Budapest Jews that were shot into the Danube in WWII. In the background, to the right, you can see the Parliament House.
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- Jour 38
- samedi 21 mai 2016
- ⛅ 24 °C
- Altitude: 111 m
CroatieSveti Petar42°37’11” N 18°11’4” E
Kupari Bay of Abandoned Hotels

On one of our evening runs up a local hill, we spotted a deserted bay. From the top, we could see at least 3 large hotels that had been clearly built to capitalise on this beautiful bay, but where were all the people? We found a disused path that was now overgrown with plants and ventured closer towards the building closest to the hill. From this path, we came close enough to peer into the rooms through the broken windows. There were no signs of the hotel being in service for a long time.
Our curiosity piqued, we jogged to the bottom of the hill which opened up into a large space which probably served as foyers for the hotels. With the sun setting over the Adriatic Sea, we went back to our accommodation and did some research before exploring any further.
Today, we returned after a day out in Dubrovnik Old Town to cool off in the quiet bay. There was still a road to these hotels, although it wouldn’t see much use these days. There were a few people on the pebbled beach, saved from throngs of tourists probably because it is only accessible by car, some distance away from Dubrovnik Old Town, and it’s little known. The water was refreshing and exactly what we needed after a full day on our feet. Although it was peaceful, it felt somewhat unnerving knowing that people were likely injured or even killed in these hotels during the Croatian War of Independence.
Our research revealed that this abandoned bay was called Kupari and it was known to have one of the best beaches in the country. In the 1960s, Kupari was revamped to include a luxury holiday resort for the military elite of the Yugoslav People’s Army and their families. It was made up of 5 luxury hotels and, once their doors opened to tourists, became desirable as a European summer hotspot in the 1980s. The rich from around Europe visited each year right up until 1991, when the war broke out. Artillery was aimed at the hotels, blowing out windows, walls and roofs. In the years after the war, looting and plundering of valuable furniture and fittings were rife.
What’s left today are mere shells of the hotels’ glorious past. Artillery damage on the hotel walls is still evident, a reminder of the time when hell visited this slice of paradise. One hotel in particular had an entire section of roof collapse into its second floor. Trees and climbers had taken root in some places, turning this once luxurious hotel into a literal concrete jungle. Some rooms still had carpet on its floors and wallpapers peeling off the walls. There were also inevitable signs of vagrant settlement in some areas, although no one was home when we walked through the hotels.
The damage was clearly too much for any investor to commit to restoring the hotels to their former glory. It would be more economical to bowl the buildings over and start again. In the meantime, this little bay is safe from tourists for a little longer.En savoir plus

VoyageurKupari Bay, home to a few abandoned hotels a few kilometres from Dubrovnik Old Town.

VoyageurAaron taking a little dip as the sun was setting over the Adriatic Sea. Behind him to the right, is one of the abandoned hotels. One can imagine that it used to be a large, luxury hotel.

VoyageurThis abandoned hotel was the most interesting of them all. It was not large in scale compared to the other abandoned hotels but far more beautiful in architecture. The outer walls are pock-marked with artillery damage. A part of its roof had collapse from the heavy fire, as can be seen in the next photo.
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- Jour 38
- samedi 21 mai 2016
- ⛅ 24 °C
- Altitude: 28 m
CroatieUvala Danče42°39’2” N 18°5’40” E
Dubrovnik City Wall Walk Part II

More photos from the city wall walk.
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- Jour 38
- samedi 21 mai 2016
- ⛅ 24 °C
- Altitude: 43 m
CroatieUvala Danče42°38’56” N 18°5’31” E
Dubrovnik City Wall Walk

We had explored the city inside the walls fairly extensively. Today, we were excited to walk along the city walls encircling the Old Town for bird’s eye view of the city and the ocean beyond. It took us a few hours to complete this 2km walk as every few steps we took presented a new opportunity for a National Geographic award-winning photograph.
In some sections of the city walls, there were openings where locals and tourists alike could escape the hustle and bustle of the city, onto the rocks below and even into the cool waters of the Adriatic Sea. There wouldn’t be many places in the world where you could wear your bathers into the city, have a dip, before returning through a hole in the wall.
About halfway through the walk, we came across cafes where we stopped to have some refreshing juice and a local beer. There was one other place we needed to see before we retired our feet for the day. We headed outside of the city wall and along a little bay, towards a towering structure atop a hill – the Fortress of St Lawrence.
This fortress is more famously known as the Red Keep in Game of Thrones. This is where Cersei concluded her walk of shame. Yes, we might be Game of Thrones addicts, but we highly recommend this city wall walk even to normal people. In all honesty though, you should probably watch Game of Thrones.En savoir plus
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- Jour 37
- vendredi 20 mai 2016
- ⛅ 17 °C
- Altitude: 50 m
CroatiePoluotok Lapad42°39’7” N 18°4’49” E
Dubrovnik Old Town Part II

More photos from Dubrovnik Old Town.
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- Jour 37
- vendredi 20 mai 2016
- ⛅ 17 °C
- Altitude: 42 m
CroatiePoluotok Lapad42°39’10” N 18°4’31” E
Dubrovnik Old Town

Oh woeful weather. It had not stopped raining since we left Split for Dubrovnik yesterday. Today we slept in and waited for a break in the weather. We were keen to explore Dubrovnik. We first stopped at Srd hill, behind the Old Town of Dubrovnik.
Srd hill played an important role in Dubrovnik’s history. Dubrovnik (as with the whole of Croatia) used to be part of Yugoslavia. When Croatia declared its indepence in 1991, the Yugoslav People’s Army waged a war against Croatia, known as the Croatian Independence War. During this war, a small platoon from the Dubrovnik army used the fort on this hill, which provided them with a good vantage point. This fort is now a war museum. It still bore tell-tale signs of the destructive war it endured on its outside walls. Large gouges in its walls from being sprayed by enemy artillery have not been patched up.
There was a lot of misplaced confidence that the Old Town would not be touched by enemy fire as it was a UNESCO heritage site. This was a fatal error for so many of its residents when the enemy bombardment destroyed much of the town. It had since been rebuilt and restored to its former glory. We had the afternoon to explore Old Town and quickly decided it’s worth spending the day tomorrow here.
Yet another Old Town, I hear you say. I assure you that no matter how many Old Towns you have visited in Europe, you would still be in awe of this one. A fortified wall completely encloses the old city, making it the perfect venue to shoot many scenes for Game of Thrones, especially those of King’s Landing. With the help of trusty Google, we turned the day into a hunt of actual Game of Thrones film sites.
We also found a popular bar through an opening in the city wall, perched on a small cliff. In summer, patrons could jump off a rock landing into the azure waters below. Aaron really wanted to give it a go but it was rather cold and the clouds had done their best to block out the sun for most part of the day. Definitely bucket list material!En savoir plus
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- Jour 35
- mercredi 18 mai 2016
- ☀️ 17 °C
- Altitude: 565 m
CroatieVidova Gora43°18’18” N 16°39’10” E
Brac Island

With the poor weather of late, we didn’t want to commit to a full day on a little boat touring the islands. It was very expensive and there was a good chance that the seas would be rough. After talking to our friends, the Colombian couple, we decided we’d join them for a day at Brac island. At least if the weather turned, we would be able to find shelter on the island.
The ferry ride was lovely. The sun was out, as promised by the weather bureau. We then had an hour-long bus ride to the other side of the island where the best beach was. Yep, it’s not a small island! We got to the bus station and the bus was already full, with the next one not leaving for another 2 hours (!!). There were already people standing in the aisle. The bus driver assured us that after the next stop, there should be seats available. All four of us got lucky.
The beach was a further 15-20 mins walk from where we got off the bus. Was this beach worth the arduous journey? The short answer was YES! There were lots of people sunbathing but it wasn’t hard to find a spot for ourselves. The clouds threatened to hide the sun but it never did the entire time we were on the beach. Swimming in the sparkling water was magical. The only downside was the constant stream of small boats that brought more and more people onto the beach every 10 minutes. We were told by locals that in the summer, it would be nearly impossible to find a spot to lay your towel. Crafty people would get up at 5am to lay their towel on the beach and reserve their spot, before going back to bed. Sounds a bit ludicrous, if you ask me.
Before long, we had to pack up and have a late lunch. We had another hour of bus ride before catching our evening ferry. There was no way we were going to be standing on the bus again. We were 30 mins early and there was already a crowd gathering at the bus station. It took a lot of defensive skills on our part to prevent losing our spot to overzealous people when the bus door opened. It had been a wonderful day but we’re glad we didn’t have to do this again tomorrow.En savoir plus
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- Jour 34
- mardi 17 mai 2016
- ⛅ 19 °C
- Altitude: 102 m
CroatieTelegrin43°30’34” N 16°24’38” E
Marjan Park

In the afternoon, after our trip to the fish market, we went to Marjan park, right next to the city centre. It reminded us of Kings Park in Perth with its size and proximity to the city. No cars are allowed on the park roads which is why throngs of runners and cyclists flock here. We rented bicycles to see if we could make it to the top of the hill. It wasn’t a little hill, but you should know by now that we leave no hill untackled. Slight exaggeration.
Unlike Kings Park which is more suited for running and cycling, this park also offers rock climbing. Hooks have been drilled into the cliff faces and anyone can scale the walls at their own risk. It was amazing to watch guys hanging on to narrow cracks by the fingertips, before swinging to the next rock lip. There was also a house or cathedral of sorts that was built into a natural hollow or nook in the rocks. It was a pity that the door was locked shut.
After a long hard slog to the top, we were rewarded with absolutely breath-taking views of Split and the coastline, and a very big cross. They seem to mark the top of every hill in Europe with a big cross. We took it all in before cruising downhill. Near the entrance to the park, we found an outdoor fitness area which we felt obliged to test out. These outdoor exercise areas (not kids’ playground) are very popular in Europe, and we’d love to see more of them in Perth.
Another unique feature of the park is the pristine little bays dotting its outline – the forest meets the ocean. It would be absolute heaven in summer.En savoir plus
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- Jour 34
- mardi 17 mai 2016
- ⛅ 19 °C
- Altitude: 3 m
CroatiePodstrana43°29’9” N 16°32’58” E
Grilled fish in Split

Before we headed home last night, we bought some fish from the supermarket. Our hosts had a charcoal grill that they kindly let us use. The host got the coals hot and ready for us while Aaron cleaned the fish in the ocean. The result was absolutely delectable. It really whet our appetite and we decided to go to the fish market today and do it all over again.
The fish market was situated right in the city centre. If you’re not quick enough, your fish will get swiped from under your nose, as happened to us. We had our eyes on a big mackerel. Wary of being ripped off, Flora hung around to see how much money the locals were handing over to the fish lady. We were ready to make our purchase. Lo and behold, an Asian guy jumped ahead and bought the lot. All the mackerels. ALL THE MACKERELS. We observed that he did a similar thing to a few other fish stalls. Maybe he ran a restaurant. Maybe we could just save ourselves the trouble and go to his restaurant. He’s Asian – he would be a good cook, so Flora says. When we asked him if he owned a restaurant, we learnt that he was a chef onboard a cruise ship – this explains why he was cleaning out the fish market. We didn’t come home empty handed, although we don’t know what type of fish we bought.
That night, we got chatting to a lovely young Colombian couple who were staying in a unit a few doors down, also owned by the same host. They were here for a holiday. We thought it’d be nice to use the charcoal grill together. They had some chicken and sausages they were going to cook up. The host had started the fire for us on the grill but we were left on our own from here on. We emptied a bag of charcoal rocks onto the fire and hoped for the best. Our conclusion: we should be on Masterchef! The result was splendid, once again. It was also heaps of fun just standing by the grill and chatting. Aaron declares that he would make a grill at home too so we can cook like this at home. We spent the rest of the night having a beautiful dinner together with our new friends.
We should also mention that our accommodation was on the beach and offered the most incredible views. Life is good.En savoir plus
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- Jour 33
- lundi 16 mai 2016
- ⛅ 19 °C
- Altitude: 5 m
CroatieSplit43°30’29” N 16°26’25” E
Split

If we were wondering where all the tourists were in Rovinj, we had found our answer. They’re all in Split, scattered across different tour groups. The weather was finally clearing, much to our relief. We walked along the beautiful promenade which was now bustling with street stalls and like-minded people enjoying the view and some coffee. We disappeared into the maze of alleyways looking for the Old Town.
Split is a town along Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast. If the Old Town looked like it was built by the Romans, well that’s because it was. The master builder’s work was evident in the old buildings that still remain. The Romans built the Diocletian’s Palace, a sprawling 4th century residence enclosed within some still-standing Roman walls. Back then, the palace complex housed Roman Emperor Diocletian’s during his retirement, as well as the many staff needed to maintain such a palace. Today, it houses shops, cafes and local residents.
At the heart of the palatial complex, the Emperor entertained guests in a lavish courtyard known as the Perystile. Today, it is guarded by a couple of appropriately dressed Roman guards. I doubt they were there to enforce peace amongst the coffee-sipping civilians sitting on the steps of the square. They were quite happy posing for photos with tourists. The Emperor would definitely not approve of them making light of their jobs.
With the exception to most of Old Town, the bell tower that stands in the centre was not built by the Romans. Its construction was suspect, in fact, the tower was initially deemed so structurally unsound that it had to be modified and partially reconstructed a few times over the centuries. Best leave the building work to the Romans, hey? Nevertheless, we were feeling reckless and decided to climb the tower anyway. There was only one set of stairs to be shared by people going up and down. Near the top, steel stairs replaced stone ones. The stairs were supported by scaffold tubes and held down by 10mm half-rusted bolts. I probably should not have pointed this out to Aaron while he was climbing up the stairs. His knees turned to jelly (haha!) but he survived the trip back down after we took some photos of Split at the top.
The Old Town is full of little lanes that are a delight to explore. As always, they are flanked by little shops selling all sorts of local crafts and temptations for tourists. We stopped at a funky café to rest our feet and have some coffee on the way home. We also time our coffee breaks with when we need to go to the toilet. You have to pay anywhere from 50 cents to 1 Euro to go to the toilet in Europe but it’s free at a café or restaurant ;)En savoir plus

VoyageurRoman guards standing in the courtyard of the Diocletian's Palace in Old Town. Can't say much about their fighting prowess but they sure were friendly with the female tourists! The new Roman slogan: Make Love, Not War.
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- Jour 31
- samedi 14 mai 2016
- ⛅ 18 °C
- Altitude: 4 m
CroatieRovinj Ferry Port45°4’52” N 13°38’19” E
Rovinj

Rovinj is a city in the province of Istria in Croatia. It sits near the northern tip of the Adriatic Sea, next to Italy and Slovenia. It used to be governed by the Italians before it was ceded to Austria during the Napoleonic era and finally Croatia when it became independent in 1991. Italian and Croatian are the official languages of this city. 98% of the population speak both languages.
We explored the old town today and was so pleasantly surprised at its beauty. It rivalled the old towns we had seen in France and Italy. There weren’t many tourists about although we were told that Rovinj is especially popular amongst the Italians as it was only a short drive away or a ferry ride across the Adriatic Sea from Venice. The weather had been poor the past few days and it rained intermittently today.
The little bays around the city looked amazing even in poor light. There are steps cut into the rocks for easy passage into the water. This is definitely the place to be in summer when the weather is more predictable. If you’re ever in Venice, it is worthwhile taking the ferry across to Rovinj for a day or two. The old town is very small and can easily be covered in a day.
We were expecting cheap prices but, so far, Croatia has been more expensive than Italy. We would find out later on from other tourists that prices have doubled, if not more, in the past year alone to make the most of the tourism industry. If you’re living in Europe or earning the pound in the UK, you probably would still consider Croatia cheap.En savoir plus
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- Jour 30
- vendredi 13 mai 2016
- ⛅ 15 °C
- Altitude: 281 m
CroatieMomjan45°26’14” N 13°43’25” E
Croatia

We set off on a long drive to Croatia today. We left early so we would have enough time to turn around at the Croatian border should Flora’s Indo passport give her any problems. As we waited at the checkpoint, we were the only car there. We could see that the immigration officers have either never seen an Indonesian passport before or were a bit dubious about this particular one. The queue of cars was now getting ridiculously long and we were told to pull over to the parking bay and they summoned Flora out of the car. We were let through once they were sufficiently convinced of Flora’s character.En savoir plus
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- Jour 29
- jeudi 12 mai 2016
- ⛅ 17 °C
- Altitude: 57 m
ItaliePiazza Santa Croce y Basilica43°46’18” N 11°15’41” E
Florence

Our accommodation was halfway between Florence and Bologna. We had a hard time deciding which city to spend the afternoon in as we leave for Croatia tomorrow. It turned out that Viv and Kez were enroute to Florence the very same day! This was actually unplanned. Despite having said our goodbyes in Positano a few days earlier, we decided to have dinner with them one last time in Italy.
Everyone was pretty spent from driving/taking the train/sleeping in the car. We decided that this evening would be spent at an idyllic pace, doing things that everyone REALLY wanted to do, like shopping for a leather jacket! Haha. Aaron’s so thrilled!
It turns out, Viv is quite well-versed in the art of differentiating good leather from bad leather. It’s all in the stitching, she says. The salesmen could sniff out an unsuspecting victim. One salesman demonstrated that a particular leather jacket that Flora was trying on was of supreme quality as it did not burn when he tried to set it alight with his lighter. Oldest trick in the book, Viv says. She saved Flora from the jaws of a wily old fox.
We didn’t just look at leather jackets. We saw the Duomo (or Il Duomo di Firenze as the locals call it) in the heart of Florence’s Old Town. Once again, we were gobsmacked by what’s in front of us. The exterior had recently undergone a careful clean (water-blasted) to reveal its original splendour. You can tell a marked difference between the sections that had been cleaned and ones that hadn’t.
We walked around Old Town until it was dinner time at a local favourite. We’ve heard a lot about the Florentine steaks. It did not disappoint. 1kg of T-bone steak was devoured in a matter of minutes by the two of us. Viv and Kez were less carnivorous than us. It was the perfect way to end our time together in Italy. For real this time! Viv and Kez will carry on with their adventures in Cinque Terre and Venice before concluding their Italy trip.En savoir plus

Vivian NeeAh Florence, if only you guys stayed one extra day so you could buy your forever leather jacket! I miss Italy...I miss being on holidays!