• Clark Conlisk
  • Clark Conlisk

India & Southeast Asia

Ein 296-Tage Abenteuer von Clark Weiterlesen
  • Mohammad Ali Road, Mumbai

    15. Juli 2015 in Indien ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    The Islamic section of Mumbai was overwhelmingly alive this evening, it being one of the final nights of Ramadan. Chris (a film director from LA who just completed his work in India), Mertens (a local who helps us around town), and I made our way to Mohammad Ali Road for dinner and dessert (my fourth and fifth meals of the day. Yes, I value dessert enough to give it "meal" status). The collection of pedestrian streets and cramped auto passages boasted a sprawling display of shops, food stalls, traffic, and enthusiasm. I probably sweat out my body weight and then ate my body weight over again during our two hours walking the area. Chris is covered in ornate tattoos and I looked like an amazed fool, so plenty of locals (especially women and young men) stopped us to ask if we were enjoying ourselves. "This. This is India!" several people told us.Weiterlesen

  • Colaba / Fort, Mumbai, Maharashtra

    16. Juli 2015 in Indien ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Aussie Babs cheesin' pretty hard at The Gateway of India. Dinner and drinks with 4 Australians on my first night here at Mondy's (Cafe Mondegar) showed a glimpse into what casual high society in Mumbai has to offer on a Tuesday night: marked-up drinks, expensively prepared Tikka, and a jukebox full of American tunes. Ke$ha made an appearances around 10:00.Weiterlesen

  • Udaipur, Rajasthan

    18. Juli 2015 in Indien ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    From 6:00 pm yesterday to 10:00 a.m. this morning I managed to lodge myself into a bed compartment of a "16 hour" AC Sleeper Bus bound for Udaipur. Sunrise cracked through the curtains around 5:00 a.m. as the abrupt, diminutive, terrier of a coachman incessantly yapped bus stops and other less useful information in Marathi. The sunlight and rude awakening did, however, make visible a new terrain much divergent from that of Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Goa, and Karnataka. Jagged hills rose and fell, rocky and arid, around the bus as if luring it into some expansive absence or dead-end. Even so, this geography has been home to some of the most detailed and rich human history on the planet. Trying to imagine what sorts of livelihoods were cultivated on it beyond herding goats served as a fun distraction from my lingering fever, which gradually emerged as the proverbial "elephant in the room". By the end of the ride I only desired two things: my hotel bedroom and directions to the nearest doctor. I flagged a tuk-tuk to my hotel -- or, should I say, the base camp of the steep climb to my hotel. A kilometer ascent to Mewargarh Palace (an elaborate name for an $8 per night price tag) was all that stood between me and some shred of stability. I arrived, checked in, assembled my day pack, and began to mentally confront the day's adventures to whatever doctor would prescribe me cheap drugs. I did not consider, however, that today is Eid and the end of Ramadan, meaning none of Udaipur's small medical clinics would be open. Nonetheless, I made my way to the local hospital in the new part of town, where I was directed to sit and receive an excessive number of blood tests amounting to 10,000 rupees, despite the prescriptions not being contingent on the test results. "Sit. Sit. We investigate." I instead paid and escaped with 358 rupees of antibiotic, probiotic, and some mild degree of mental relief. I again caught a ride back to the base camp, climbed to the top, entered and took the stairs to the rooftop kitchen, where a rewarding view, vegetable noodle soup, and pill buffet were intently welcomed. After six weeks on the trail, spending my 23rd birthday here may not be so bad.Weiterlesen

  • City Palace, Udaipur, Rajasthan

    20. Juli 2015 in Indien ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Three not at all sarcastic French medical students and I visited Udaipur's city palace today. Between demonstrating and explaining the intricacies of second-hand irony to one another, we enjoyed the sights and sounds of Udaipur. Cramped and chaotic but electric and vibrant, the city makes growing weary of it as much of a challenge as exploring all its nooks and crannies. It being my first day back on the move, I led a leisurely pace. Around 2 pm, after the French had departed to the bus station to secure tickets for a day trip to Ranakpur, I bought a journal and piece of artwork from an elderly couple's two local artisan shops. As I left the art shop I was greeted warmly by a British couple I had previously met in Palolem. I sat with them for an hour before they moved on toward City Palace museum. At their cafe I accidentally began a conversation with a 23 year old Canadian girl named Alex working for an international NGO. We talked things from pop culture to Kerala's education system before parting ways and hoping to make dinner plans with friends tomorrow night.Weiterlesen

  • Ranakpur Jain Temple, Ranakpur

    22. Juli 2015 in Indien ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    This 14th century Jain temple in Ranakpur, Rajasthan, is highly acclaimed for its 1,444 hand carved pillars of Sevali and Sonarna stone. Each pillar has it's one unique and religiously significant design based on one of the five major tents of the Jain religion (Achaurya, non-stealing; Ahimsa, non-violence; Satya, truth; Brahmacharya, celibacy; Aparigraha, non-attachment/non-possession). Despite the unique of the pillars, the temple is marked by a sharp symmetry. I paid for a camera pass but the guards hawking around constantly sparked an odd sense of guilt, so not many pictures were taken.Weiterlesen

  • Udaipur, Rajasthan (Birthday)

    22. Juli 2015 in Indien ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Here is an excerpt from a recent journal entry in which I was feeling particularly profound for no reason other than the realization that it was my birthday and I had been travelling for six weeks (I do not plan for these posts to become regular):

    July 22, 2015. 9:30 p.m. Udaipur
    The travel life has become a blur only chronicled by illness and Ash's return to the U.S.. My happiness is almost permanent when healthy, yet my patience when sick is dangerously low. India has offered such a full breadth of cultural flavors that correctly recalling the details of Kerala has become a challenge requiring visual assistance. The North has distinguished itself in terms of its more challenging terrain and people, with arid land and facetious attitudes rising to relevance for the first time. I find myself absorbing these traits as my bluntness with tuk-tuk drivers and disagreeable salespeople has increased fivefold. When being swindled becomes a possibility, I quickly become a vehement adversary, for better or worse; probably unjustly so. In any case, my warmth towards others has become a joyous reflex that only increases with time. Maybe it is new, maybe it has always existed and is finally manifesting itself. It seems that as one travels alone, the embellishing aspects surrounding their personality fade away in the absence of the social surroundings that cultivated them in the first place. The skeleton of that personality is closer to what I wanted to be for the last few years, I believe. What I do know is I like the person I am today more than the person I brought into my 22nd year. My goal to be happier every 12 months than the previous 12 hit an existential speed bump at 22. A new outlook and assurance of personality all but secures a successful improvement in my 23rd year. This is a source of great excitement.

    I have no intentions to deplore over the past, but I do have an emotional investment in today and, when I'm responsible, in tomorrow. Dwelling on the shortcomings of one's early adulthood is only valuable insofar as it is used as a bitter reminder to do better. Be better. Be more thoughtful, less selfish, more attentive. The world around us, existing as a random series of cause and effect, will continue to hurl things into our path, good and bad. One cannot opt out, but one can actively learn through addressing this flux with contemplative action. There is no secret or formula for a "successful" life, there is only the deliberate reflection on our own lives, their connections to the greater world, and an ability to put ourselves and others in context. Doing so unlocks a patience and subsequent contentment that the hypercritical and excessively proud cannot access without demeaning others. Altruistic emotional achievement is an exercise in tolerance, in patience, in understanding, and in self-awareness. Not one in self-affirmation through South-Park-Cartman-esque mental gymnastics to convince oneself that the rest of the world is wrong.
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  • Pushkar, Rajasthan

    24. Juli 2015 in Indien ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    Just checked in at Pushkar after my 5 hour train and 30 min bus ride from Udaipur. Two Turkish friends from last night coincidentally took the same train from Udaipur and split the costs of subsequent transportation with me. They ended up booking a room in the same hostel as me and we spent the evening talking about this and that over whiskey and food. Looking forward to seeing the city during the daytime.

    Edit (8 hours later): photo from rooftop cafe and ghats at their famous holy lake.
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  • Pushkar, Rajasthan (Southwest Peak)

    24. Juli 2015 in Indien ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    My Turkish companions, Musab and Ozge, accompanied me in my ascent of a nearby mountain in order to get a view of the deserts and plains about which Pushkar is situated. We toasted to our accomplishment at the top before a monsoon (one of the few that arrive in the desert town) stranded us atop the mount. We waited in the pouring rain, shirts off, for half an hour before it slowed and we joined a few locals in the mountain-top tea shop. The descent was much quicker than the climb and we settled in a local thali restaurant for a meal and an opportunity to dry off. It was an eventful day despite the humdrum of the city's uneventful religious Ghats and secular bazaars.Weiterlesen

  • Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur

    27. Juli 2015 in Indien ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    (1459 c.e.) Mehrangarh is said to be the most majestic of Rajasthan's many forts. The wall surrounding it and the oldest portion of Jodhpur is the world's second largest behind China's Great Wall. The city and its many indigo buildings are clearly visible from the fort's many vista points. I also visited Jaswant Thada, or the White Temple, and the pictures/videos I took there will be uploaded when I finally go through the GoPro.Weiterlesen

  • Priya Hotel (Restaurant), Jodhpur

    27. Juli 2015 in Indien ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    Good local restauarants, all referred to as "hotels", were farther from my Jodhpur hostel than anticipated. Nonetheless, I wanted to make an occasion of my 50th day on the road, so I made my way back toward Jodphur's commercial district, where I had very little luck finding sit down spots. Luckily, two British girls pointed me towards an excellent Thali restaurant with an ice cream parlor. I probably overspent on my Fixed Thali and Kesar Pista ice cream, which in India means throwing down $2.60 and $0.55, respectively. The meal, Thali, is a platter with rice, pappadum (the curly, rolled cracker thing), chapathi (like Indian-bread tortillas), dal (lentils), paneer masala (cheese cooked like potatoes in a curry), and a few other of the chef's preferences. It is something that I started ordering several times a week in my attempts to copy the locals...Weiterlesen

  • Jaisalmer, Rajasthan

    29. Juli 2015 in Indien ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Ms. Monsoon and I have had a tumultuous relationship thus far. Our ability to commit to neither a permanent break-up nor a lasting companionship has put a lot of strain on my rainjacket. I figured the end of our time together was near as I boarded a train to the desert town of Jaisalmer. I was mistaken. Apparently, mother nature's sloppy and inconsistent daughter is drawn to me and my low-budget, pale-body, and indian-haircut with a meteorological magnetism. I arrived this morning in Jaisalmer and was greeted by a few centimeters of rain (a large portion of the 10 cm that falls each year in the town). This is basically the longest relationship I have had since T-Pain's "Best Love Song" was topping the charts.Weiterlesen

  • Fort Jaisalmer, Rajasthan (1156 c.e.)

    31. Juli 2015 in Indien ⋅ ☀️ 40 °C

    A view from yet another fort. I promise I'm doing things other than just Fort things.

    "The Golden Fort" due to the color of the sandstone against the desolate Thar desert surrounding it.

    "Some children can grow to be 7 years old without ever seeing a drop of rain"... This tells me that Jaisalmer has been drenched in my bad luck for the last 2.5 days. The weather today has improved and I plan to take an overnight camp in the desert tonight.Weiterlesen

  • Thar Desert, Rajasthan

    31. Juli 2015 in Indien ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Two Catalan Spaniards and I began our trek on camel-back into the desert at 3:00 p.m. yesterday. I made the decision to stay overnight at the camp on the sand instead of head back to the hotel after dinner (I had already checked out and did not want to face another hotel owner and their proclivity for shirking ethics to get people in the door). Our camels had less enthusiasm then we did, and mine would have been fully lame had it not be coaxed along by the other three. Nonetheless, we made our way through the brush, a few wild camels, and deer to our camp in the dunes. We eluded the typical Thar desert heat by a few days, as last week the pre-rain temperatures were well into the 90's. Ours could not have been above the low 80's. The sun began to set and I was pleasantly surprised with the rising full moon. The dunes in their entirety were visible under its lights. Sleep became second priority to witnessing the landscape and night sky's seamless intersection. Our dinner of dal, chapathi, rice, chai, and mixed vegetable curry was cooked over the fire and, unlike many restaurants in the cities, the camel-men weren't shy about throwing some heat into a foreigner's dish. I'm writing this from a Mahindra Jeep in the middle of the desert, covered in sand and wedged between a car door and an elderly woman who hitched a ride to a water-hole. Abandoned towns line the roadways, large groups of 400 or more sheep share our one lane road, and local village men and women wave at each car that passes. A Cobra crosses the road in front of our vehicle. I squirm. The old lady laughs at me.

    Tonight at 1:20 a.m. local time I catch my train out of the desert to Jaipur.
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  • Old City, Jaipur

    3. August 2015 in Indien ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    "The Pink City". Had a masala dosa near the main gate into the Old City, then found a fire escape that climbed to a roof with a decent view of the district. A man saw me on the roof and joined in on the sunbathing (for me, sunburning) and enjoying the sights. He took me to his gem-refining office where several men were sitting on the floor with drills and hammers, shaping and reshaping amethyst for sale to the local shop owners.Weiterlesen

  • Taj Mahal, Agra

    4. August 2015 in Indien ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    The marginally controlled chaos of my one day, zero nights in Agra...
    Step 1: 4:00 a.m. train from Jaipur to Agra
    Step 2: Arrive at 8:30 a.m. and find place to lock up pack
    Step 3: Taj Mahal for two hours
    Step 4: Refer to "Agra Fort"
    Step 5: Bazaars and marble-decor shopping
    Step 6: Refer to "Agra" sitar jam sesh.
    Step 7: Train to New Delhi (10:30 p.m. arrival)

    I'm sweaty and probably need all the sleeps I can find.
    Weiterlesen