Prizren

The morning is spent crossing the flat agricultural plain. Its a bit unloved with litter strewn all along the roadside and regular dark plumes of smoke (burning of rubbish and burning off the field stubble).

Today we are joined at our 11ish snack by a cheerful age-12 football team, some of whom have pretty good english. Its hard not to like the Kosovars. The muslim albanians are more welcoming, interactive and friendly than other countries thus far. Nevertheless, on the whole they are a bit suspicious/ skeptical/ negative about their country. It is clear that Kosovo’s problems are far from solved.

In the town of Prizren we arrive to the lunchtime competition of the mosque prayers - somehow rather endearing. But this cheerful muslim town hides a sad recent history in which 20,000 Serbians ended up leaving their homes with only 20 now remaining. We make a quick visit to the Mosque and it's time to start the climb along the gorge up into the Shah mountains national park to a hotel with a marvelous view.Read more