The God of Mice

We are heading towards and then along the coastline south of Troy. Yet again we have a headwind and progress is hard won. Tomorrow there are gales forecast from the south. It is time to find somewhere to hole up. We strike lucky with a pleasant and inexpensive hotel looking out over the sea. Not only that but the next morning two other cyclists roll in - also stymied by the wind. We have not seen other touring bikes since Kosovo so it is good fun to swap stories. Meanwhile the warm wind howls, the thunder claps and we have a huge deluge and several power cuts.

Our legs decide a 2nd rest day is a good plan. The tumble drier on the balcony provides an almost instant drying service… just so long as things can be securely tied on.
Finally we are off once more. First up are the ruins of Alexandria Troas including temple and baths. We appreciate quiet paved roads through the olive groves.

At lunch time we roll into Güpinar and the temple of Apollo Smintheus - the god of mice (protecting farmers from the mice). Its peaceful and a lovely place and we appear it have it to ourselves. We admire the columns of the temple and the holy road back to Alexandria - used only by pedestrians. There are freshly fallen bursting pomegranates from the storm that Alain picks up for Alice to eat.

Turning the corner we bump into 4 Americans:
Them: Its getting crowded around here
Us: Yes, it is a bit
Them: Wow. Did you cycle here?
Alain: Yes! How did you figure that out?
Them: Well. The clue would be the helmet on your head….

We continue on across a dry and open rolling landscape.Read more