Argentina
San Fernando

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    • Day 51

      Dragoman D5 The Estancia!

      April 10, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

      A quick breakfast in the hotel (very poor compared to hostels!) we again started towards the Estancia. With clear blue skies, we could see the mountainous terrain which was lurking in the mist yesterday. Stopping for photos we pulled up next to a swooping circle of condors, massive birds that glide effortlessly through the sky.

      After lunch (empanadas of course) we stopped, seemingly in the middle of nowhere at some gates. No signpost but the guides knew their way. We trundled down a narrow bumpy road for 10 minutes before rounding a corner to the sight of pretty white buildings with terracotta roof tiles. Two elderly horses were wandering around and a host of chickens.

      Waiting for us was Bea, with riding boots and a beret hat she looked the part of a gaucho. Greeting her in Spanish she quickly said hello back ahe was from England. Handing us a lemonade each she gave us a tour of the estancia and explained her role as the manager.

      About a mile from the main house, our little huddle of buildings are the home of the owner and arw used for Dragoman trips aftert over a decade of partnership. With a BBQ area, kitchen and games room we had all that we needed. We set up camp in the field in front with views of green hills and birds of pray swooping above.

      I left James to set up camp as I was on cooking duty. With David in the lead, Bob and I chopped onions, garlic, ginger, carrots and pepper to make a ginger chicken curry. It had a massive thumbs up from everyone.

      At 8 we met in the games room, tonight a pair of local men were coming to entertain us with local Gaucho music. They were called Willy and Charlie and were such showmen. Charlie looked to be in his late 50's with shaggy grey hair and a bit of a paunch. He had a powerfull voice, and on doing a cover of the rolling stones, did a great Mick Jagger impression. Willy was younger, had two gold front teeth, he could play 3 drums at once, wih his hands would be a blur. A talanted musician he could also play a pipe and a small guitar instrument traditional to the area. A few hours later and very happy after a few glasses we rolled into our tents.
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    • Day 51

      Dragoman D6 Goucho riding and Asado

      April 10, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      At 10 o clock we were bouncing around the back of Bea's pick up truck, being ferried tobthe main house for horseback riding. The main house was grander in stature, surrounded by stables and sat in beautiful surroundings, this is where you can come stay for a riding holiday for £150 a night.

      We were geared up with helmets and introduced to our horses which they had matched according to our riding abilities. I'm a complete begginer and I was matched to a beautiful mahogany mare called Sinpatica, which means kindness. She was a very gentle, if greedy horse and would listen to my commands about 70% of the time. She loved to be at the front of the pack so if I tried to drop back she ignored me.

      In South America you ride in a different style to Britian (not that I would know). You hold the rains in one hand only, using pull back for stop, and gently pressung the rains against their neck for turning. A kissy noise would make them start and kicks to go quicker, or in my horse's case to tell her off for eating.

      We rode for an hour and a half in glorious sunshine. Our hostess Bea was born in Kenya, grew up in Britain and had first come to the estancia as a guest. She returned as a guide and then persuaded the owner to take her on as a manager.

      Returning to the mainhouse we had a lunch of empanadas with salad before returning to our part of the estancia. With the sunshine continuing I sunbathed and enjoyed a book while watching the chef for the night prepare the asado (South American BBQ). James and Izzy played football with the pack of dogs. They have three collies (Hagis, Clyde and Gilly) and a labrador (trumpet) along with two strays.

      At 7 we were rounded up served wine and we sat down with Kevin the owner of the estancia. Its been in his family for 3 generations since they emigrated from Scotland. The main buisnessnes is still cattle rearing but he and his brother looking to further their income started riding holidays on the side. Trying to get their venture off the ground they went to a travel expose in the UK to attract attention. As a small stall no one paid attention until the founder of Dragoman came for a chat. He explained that between Mendoza and Salta his trucks had nothing to visit and their estancia sounded perfect. The rest is history as Drago trucks have been visiting the estancia for 16 years, around 25 trucks a year. Their riding holiday buisness picked up with time but the dragoman partnership helped them on their way.

      We were fed well that night with ribs, beef, sausages and chicken. We ended the night in the games room making our own music, trying to accompany David's digerydoo.
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