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Round-the-south
  • Sara Lyn
  • Sara Lyn

Round-the-south

A 145-day adventure by Sara Read more
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  • Trip start
    February 19, 2017
    Sara LynRound-the-southTraveler
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    Heathrow

    February 19, 2017 in England ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Two years of planning have led to James and I toasting the adventure of our lives. We are jetting off, and over five months we will visit nine countries. Starting with the Carnaval in Rio, we will then follow the gringo path around South America, through Brazil, Argentina, Chile, Bolivia and Peru. From there, we hop and skip across the Pacific, with a week each in the USA and Fiji, before landing in New Zealand just in time for the Lions rugby tour!

    The aim of this blog is to keep friends and family up to date with our travels in a way you can dip in and out. Hopefully then once the trip has ended it can be turned into a book we will treasure!

    We're waiting to board after a last minute splurge on an Italian restaurant before months of supermercado food. I'm nervous about the trip, however that feeling is outweighed by the anticipation of the adventures ahead, with no pressure or responsibilities on our heads.

    "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."

    Mark Twain    Read more

  • Sara LynRound-the-southTraveler
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    Rio de Janeiro

    February 20, 2017 in Brazil ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    After over 17 hours of travelling we made it! It is a roasting 35 degrees and lets see how long it takes me, one of the palest people in Wales, to turn lobster red.

    We are staying in Lapa the 'party area' of Rio, but I'm fully expecting that during Carnival the whole city succumbs. Our hostel is called Manga and is nestled down a side street away from the main drag. Our room is cozy and multicoloured, with windows opening into the courtyard at the back. A poster on the wall has a tidbit of welsh on it (even if spelt incorrectly), so I like the place already.

    Upon arrival I connected to the wifi like a woman possessed. No, not to go on social media, but today job offers were released. Thankfully I've secured an Anaesthetics post for the next two years, so out we went to explore the area and celebrate! We sat in a local bar and people watched. Lapa is asleep during the day and looks almost abandoned, with only a few grocery shops open.

    Thirst quenched, we wondered towards a great ugly pyramid structure down the street and were surprised to find it was a cathedral. Whilst ugly outside, inside four strips of coloured glass gives the space majesty.

    Having a chilled night in the streets around the hostel tonight as we barely slept on the journey here.

    Hostel: Manga- Entry straight into a hall with benches with big windows open onto the street beyond. Around the very small kitchen for a busy hostel, is the courtyard. A small sun trap where people mill about. On the majority of days the Chef is found gearing up a BBQ and mouthwatering meals.    Read more

  • Sara LynRound-the-southTraveler

    Rio- Copacabana

    February 21, 2017 in Brazil ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    Today didn't start brilliantly. I hesitated getting onto the metro, and watched as the train, with James in it, sped away from me. A few minutes of panic before James came back on the opposite train. He will tell you he was on the right train. It wasn't direct like the one I wanted but it did go in the right direction! I'll call it a truce.

    Once successfully in Copacabana the beach was beautiful, with white sand and clear blue sea stretching between the granite hills. We sat and had a few cool beers before walking along the waters edge, which was gloriously cold compared to the blazing heat. Whilst looking blissful, the beach defiantly is not tranquil. Enterprising men and women sell everything and anything you could want and shout about it at the top of their lungs. Water, hats, towels, bikinis and even shrimps were carried about accompanied by shouts of “Agua agua agua!”

    The carnival spirit is starting with the streets a bit busier and people dressing up. Whilst some are simple there are some awe inspiring detailed costumes around. We ventured to the botanical gardens which while pretty weren't captivating so we wondered back towards the hostel.

    We popped across the way in the evening to a bar. As obvious gringo's we were put towards the back, and happily sat sipping Caipirihinas whilst watching the world go by.    Read more

  • Sara LynRound-the-southTraveler
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    Rio -A lot of walking towards sugarloaf

    February 23, 2017 in Brazil ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    We joined a walking tour today for downtown Rio. The highlight was the Selaron steps, not far from Lapa. They were created by a Chilean artist who wanted to bring something back to Rio, a city he considered home. He encouraged use of tiles to decorate the stairs and they were sent by people the world over. It only took me a minute to find a Welsh tile from Conwy. Unfortunately the artist came to a tragic end, he crossed the wrong people trying to stop drug trafficking down the steps and was set alight.

    We had lunch in a 18th century tea hall, beautifully decorated with mirrors, and stuffed ourselves with burgers and pastries. Late afternoon we grabbed an Uber (so cheap) and headed up to sugarloaf mountain. You go up by cablecars and we enjoyed a nice cold beer at the top whilst waiting for the sun to set on a panoramic view of Rio.

    Headed out in the evening to a club with a live band and salsa. We were the only gringos there and the locals were loving the music. We had a larger gentleman shimming his bottom at us most of the night as he tried to charm his lady friends next to us!    Read more

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    Rio day 4- Christ the redeemer

    February 24, 2017 in Brazil ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Up early-ish we caught a shuttle bus service up to see Christ the Redeemer having been warned against other modes of transport. We arrived around 11 and it was already crowded around the base of the statue. People cram in for the best selfie shot , even lying on the ground. It took away a little of the spectacle of such a great monument. I think it might be better to admire from afar.

    We chilled at the hostel courtyard for the rest of the day meeting others and eating Chef Richards concoctions. He has been a lifesaver easing us into travelling by cooking meals for next to nothing for all the hostel. We popped out to have a look around the Uruguayan market for Carnaval outfits. There were streets upon streets of stalls and shops selling all sorts! Our outfits chosen - a pirate and a flower fairy, countdown to the lapa blocos began.    Read more

  • Sara LynRound-the-southTraveler
    1

    Rio 5- Carnaval!!!!

    February 25, 2017 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    It's Friday and Carnaval kicked off in ernest. We spent the day at the beach fending off sellers left right and centre whilst enjoying the sun.

    Back to the hostel and the atmosphere was great with people returning from a day of partying in all sorts of costumes. Chef Richard had cooked Jerk Chicken with fruit punch and alcohol flowed in the little courtyard.

    We donned our outfits and headed out into Lapa's bloco Boehmia as a group from the hostel. With alcohol stalls every 10 meters we were never going to be short on drinks. Stages were set up every few hundred yards blasting salsa/ pop/ rap. After the bloco finished we wandered and found another following the beating drums down the street dancing with the Cariocas. I took out my old sony ericson phone and took a lot of blurry photos, only these two survive!    Read more

  • Sara LynRound-the-southTraveler
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    Rio 6- Carnaval parade

    February 26, 2017 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    A day relaxing in the hostel before a last meal courtesy of Chef Richard! Off we headed through the street parties to the Sambadrome! This is a purpose built street with a stand either side in which the Samba schools of Rio parade down and compete. This is what you see when the carnaval is shown on tv at home.

    An amazing spectacle, thousands dance down the street in the most colourful costumes, with floats up to three tiers high covered in dancers (sometimes topless! As certain men the row down had clocked, zooming in with their cameras).

    Each school has a theme running through their performance. We saw film villans (including some very cute minions), slavery and nature. It started with the King of Carnaval- Momo walking down the street. On Friday he took the keys of Rio away from the mayor and took over until the end of carnaval.

    Each samba school has a song which is played on repeat throughout their performance. With rhythmic beats they were catchy even if you don't know a word of Portuguese! We danced along with the music and headed back in the early hours... travelling to Iguacu falls tomorrow!    Read more

  • Sara LynRound-the-southTraveler
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    Iguazu falls

    February 27, 2017 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    After too few hours of sleep and two flights, we arrived in Foz do Iguaçu, the city on the Brazilian side of the border. We are staying in old shipping containers, a lively quirky hostel called tetris. Slumming it in dorms, but the free caipirinhas make up for it, and the two cute dogs! After arriving we made a Brazilian friend Edison who had amazing images of the falls and gave us some tips on the days ahead.

    We booked onto a tour of the Argentinian side, not realising that we would be guided through the park itself. With such a busy park our poor guide Daniel had to put up with two German chimney smokers from our hostel, who were as slow as snails!

    We meandered through highest and lower levels to get the mist breathtaking views of the falls. There are hundreds of waterfalls crashing down and the cooling mists lift up high- pistyll y rhaeadr has a lot to live up to!

    Later in the day we went on a boat ride which take you right under the falls. One way to cool down on a very hot and humid day! When we were finally drying out the skies opened for the daily tropical storm, and we got soaked. With our shoes squeaking we made it back to the hostel for our free Caipirinhas!

    Having drunk a mouthful of untreated water in the park before I thought better of it, the next day for me was spent lying in the hostel common room with the dogs for company. James went exploring the Brazilian falls, and in the evening we crossed the border into Argentina and boarded the 17 hour bus to Buenos Aires.

    Hostel: Tetris container hostel, so funky we had to stay there. Every part was made from old shipping containers. We shared a 6 bedded dorm and were greeted by a blocked toilet. Typical dorm life. It cost £28 for two nights, but included the perk of breakfast included and a free cocktail every night, and they did taste good!    Read more

  • Sara LynRound-the-southTraveler

    Buenos Aires

    March 1, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    The bus ride from Puerto Iguazu to Buenos Aires was 17 hours but felt like 5! National express and Megabus take note! We had fully reclining wide seats and two meals served, including wine! Films were played, thankfully the first few in English, but I think I followed Mission impossible 4 well in Spanish. Outside of the windows the days tropical storm continued its show of lightening.

    We arrived in a bustling station, ducked into the metro where we struggled to get subecards to travel freely in BA. The locals have no English and didn't seem to understand our faltering Spanish. We're going to have to pick up our game. There was a lot of simple spanish, miming and laughing at the gringos.

    We chilled at our new hostel and explored San Telmo a little. The area has an authentic feel with european-like architecture thats a little rough around the edges. Walk a few meters down what looks like a run down street, and you come across a craft beer pub/ restaurant/ shop. If you don't look you might miss them. We ended our night with a treat. Steak!! We went to a local house called La Brigada, and it was mouthwatering. Will have to survive on supermercado food and empanadas for the rest of our stay though!

    Hostel: Puerto Limon- Managed to splurge out again for a private room, four nights for £48. The room opened up onto its courtyard decorated with fairy lights, which then led through to the covered canteen and big open kitchen. A peaceful hostel with a nice mix of long term hostlers with tourists. San Telmo has a reputation for being a bit rough but we felt safe the whole time we were there.    Read more

  • Sara LynRound-the-southTraveler

    Buenos Aires- Recoleta

    March 2, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    We decided to explore the area of Recoleta first, the posh bit of the city, similar to Chelsea in London. We jumped onto the local bus expecting to just swipe our cards and be on our way. The driver was asking us where our stop was. Cue my panicked expression, he just waved us through with inpatience and we had a free bus ride!

    We joined free walking tours Buenos Aires, our guide for the morning was Martín. Full of historical and political knowledge he took us through the streets of Recoleta. He colourfully told the story of the ruling class "the oligarchs", and how their pettiness shaped the area. They wanted to be on par with Europe so they built great palaces, trying to out do each other. Three old women especially splashed their money in a competitive craze. Now Recoleta looks like a European city due to their influence.

    We passed the Malvinas war memorial and heard the history from the Argentinian perspective. A military dictatorship losing favour tried to win a war to regain national support. Martín also took us through their economical upheaval. The Peso is undergoing huge inflation by 45% a year! Prices are starting to get towards European levels. Back in the 80's he described how inflation was so bad supermarkets would shout out new prices in between picking up your item and getting to the till!

    In the afternoon we toured around Recoleta cemetery in blazing heat, helped by a Mc Flurry to cool down! We were taken around by Francis and were told the interesting stories of many of the mausoleums such as the girl buried alive who could be heard scratching the sides of her coffin, and the woman buried with her loyal dog. The graveskeeper who committed suicide as his dream was to be buried in that cemetery, and the welshman so paranoid about being buried alive he invented a system to escape from his coffin. One of the last graves we visited was that of the tour guides great grandparents!

    The most famous grave is that of Eva Peron aka Evita. The wife of the president in the 50's, she divided opinions in Argentina, beloved by the left working class, hated by the upper class who upon her death said "Viva la Cancer". After her death her poor corpse was moved, mutilated and had dark magic performed upon it. She was finally laid to rest decades after her death at her fathers mausoleum and she was placed deep down with concrete on top.

    After a busy day in the sun we made a surprisingly delicious stir fry and collapsed in bed!    Read more

  • Sara LynRound-the-southTraveler
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    Buenos Aires- La Boca

    March 3, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    We managed the bus ride today as we were heading to La Boca- simple to say! It's one of the oldest areas in Buenos Aires, rich with history and art. It was one of the main docks, and became a melting pot of working class immigrants from all over the world. It was here that Tango was born, and football is worshiped as a religion.

    The streets are painted in wonderful primary colours. A homage to how it looked over a hundred years ago, when the workers from the docks would create houses from the scraps they could find, including unfinished paint pots of every colour.

    Tango dancers perform in most restaurants here, initially a dance between two men, tango evolved in La Boca being ignored by the oligarchs of Recoleta until it became fashionable in Europe if course!

    The end of the tour was the blue and gold stadium for the famous Boca Juniors team. Fans are proudly known as the shit shovelers, and are amongst the most feverent in the world. Playing at the stadium is supposed to be very intimidating for opposing teams. They run out of space to build stands on the east side, and so it's a solid wall- known as the 3rd fan that creates a wall of noise.

    We sat down for lunch and broke our promise of austerity by ordering a mixed grill. It was still far cheaper than in the UK promise! Caught the bus back to San Telmo, and explored the streets and the market place. We stumbled across a square with tango dancers and watched for a while, then enjoyed some coffee in the local market.

    In our hostel we met a lovely pair from London who have just started their 7th week traveling. Both are architects and speak fluent spanish a very handy skill that we were desperately trying to improve. They had passed a live music venue the night before, and we headed out together to this quirky venue. Small and intimate we enjoyed a jazz concert with some good beer and empenadas.    Read more

  • Sara LynRound-the-southTraveler

    Buenos Aires to Montevideo

    March 5, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    After a few to many beers the day before, we had a late start today. Looking at the map we aimed for Palmero. With sweeping parks full of roses it was elegant and open. We jumped back on the metro and grabbed a quick lunch overlooking Congress. An imposing building with many interesting sculptures decorating its front. Again we joined a walking tour (sensing a theme yet?) and meandered our way from Congress to the Pink House, passing Tango Cafès and a Dante's Inferno inspired building which has a partner in Montevideo.

    One of the most moving stories we've heard is represented by handkerchieves painted onto the floor of Plaza da Mayo. During its military dictatorship many men went missing, theorised to have been executed and dropped from airplanes, never to be seen again. In the square the mothers would protest in pairs, as they could be arrested if they were in greater numbers. They wore the handkerchiefs on their heads and asked where their children had gone.

    More recently a new group called grandmothers of the missing campaigned to find their grandchildren. Pregnant mothers that opposed the dictatorship would be allowed to carry their baby to term before they were killed. These babies were then given to families within the dictatorship. They find these babies now by DNA testing, with about 100 found so far.

    The day after we caught a ferry and the bus to Montevideo Uruguay. We can't help adding another stamp to our passports! We've arrived on a Sunday and Montevideo was a ghost town as it’s a day to spend with family! We ambled down the rambla a walkway that extends the whole of the cities coast. We walked from leafy square to leafy square, just stopping from time to time to sit. After a busy few days in BA, it was nice to enjoy some peace as we sipped beer, and listened to a saxophonist play pink panther and moon river.

    Our hostel is an amazing family run place called Hostel Babilonia, with gorgeous inside spaces. Tonight we seem to have the place to ourselves (and the 4 month old puppy that loves James' smelly socks!). Outside on the street corner something is being filmed and we spent a few minutes listening to the flair and sass of its American director.

    Hostel: Babalonia- a costly £50 for 2 nights but we did have the whole hostel to ourselves! Run by two women who made us a lovely breakfast, They were struggling against the bigger hostel chains in the city. It was a beautiful space with greenery hanging from the roof, but felt very empty with just us two.    Read more

  • Sara LynRound-the-southTraveler
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    Montevideo

    March 7, 2017 in Uruguay ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We fell a little bit in love with Montevideo after just a day there, and would recommend anyone to visit. After the hustle and bustle of Rio and BA, the city had a really chilled vibe, matched by its people who enjoy a slower pace to life. If I ever emigrate it may be to Uruguay!

    When we ventured out in the morning life had reentered the city, and the streets were busy with vendors, cafés and stalls. We wandered down from the old city to independence square where (of course) we met our walking tour guide sipping his matte (a herbal tea which most Uruguans carry around all day, clutching their hot water flasks like a baby). He was the most eccentric guide yet, and had a wonderful self depricating way of describing Montevideo and its inhabitants. Uruguyans are mostly lazy, friendly and progressive. Their loves are football and steak, and that is all you need to become Uruguyans, vegetarians beware.

    We followed him from one leafy square to the next untill we ended in the old market, now full of steak restaurants. With our new friends from the walking group we sat down to some more amazingly good steak and wine. We decided to meet up again in the evening and after a few drinks at their hostel, we headed to a tapas restaurant. We ended the night learning a new card game from Columbia which had been dubbed "Cuckoo". Tricky and conniving I hope we come up against more people who know this game!

    Next day and we're back in BA with a flight down to Patagonia tomorrow. It will be a nice change to go from hot busy cities to a colder climate, with amazing mountains to trek!    Read more

  • Sara LynRound-the-southTraveler
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    Perito Moreno Glacier

    March 8, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    El Calafate was a shock to the system after the busy hot cities. A small town on the side of an aquamarine lake, it's like Betws-y-Coed full of quirky touristic places. Flamingos feed on the lake shore, while hundreds of stray dogs wander peacefully around in packs. Our hostel is cosy, with friendly staff and fellow travellers. I'm making use of its free tea service as I type.

    A trip to the glacier is a must in this area and it was awe inspiring in its size and beauty. Stretching over 5 km across, this great hulk of ice is alive. Cracks and thunderous roars are accompanied by the fall of great chunks of ice to the lake below. We spent hours walking along the different viewpoints and taking it in. The cost to the park was expensive but worth it for the spectacle.

    Travelling within Patagonia is expensive as well, but the views should pay off if the weather holds! Waiting for a bus to El Chalten now, hoping to hike to views of the Fitz Roy mountain!

    Hostel: I Keu Ken. Such a friendly hostel, which was obvious from seeing everyone huddled together around tables through its misted windows. We had a 4 bedded dorm which we shared with a rather pessimistic english couple who though the glacier was a let down! Two nights for £20 the best hostel breakfast was included.    Read more

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    Fitz Roy

    March 12, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    After an amble down to town to try and see flamingos (they stayed away from shore and a few pink blobs were seen a few hundred meters away), onward we went to El Chalten. A small town full of little restaurants and hostels, it's picturesque with each building a different primary colour. Our hostel here has a colourful host who likes to call everyone motherfuckers. We arrived to cloud and rain and after a run to an almost bare supermarket, we sat down for dinner and wine. We shared stories with couples from the Netherlands and Australia hoping for good weather the next day.

    Our wishes were answered as I drew the curtain back the next morning and we had crystal clear skies, no wind and the top of Mount Fitz Roy was just visible behind a hill. After a quick breakfast we headed off down the 20km trail. After 4 km we had our first view of the mountain, a lone cloud lingering by the lake. The granite peaks truly gigantic against the horizon. We wandered on stopping frequently as we stared at the formation in front of us. The last 1.2km goes very steep, up 400m to the laguna below the mountain that stands at 1200m. All I can say is that James has the patience of a saint as I turtled my way up. The views were definitely worth it, no words can describe seeing mount Fitz Roy towering above you at 3400m in the sun.

    We celebrated by treating ourselves to beer and pizza in a small place called La Cervisaria. Their Hawaiian not only has pineapples but cherries too! After a deep sleep I awoke to an achey right knee, with the wind howling and rain drumming against the window I passed on any further hiking this week. James set off to laguna torres while I explored town and stayed in the cozy hostel. Puerto Natales and W trek await....if the trails are open.

    Hostel: Aylen-Aike £28 pounds for three nights in a 6 person dorm. Worth every penny just for the host Sebastian, who must have learnt english from listening to Blink 182 etc.    Read more

  • Sara LynRound-the-southTraveler

    W trek 1-2 From Paine to Grey and back

    March 17, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

    An early start after little sleep the night before, we jumped on a bus and headed toward Torres del Paine National Park. To say I was nervous would be an understatetment. A huge one. This would be a multiday hike with a laden bag. I've never come close to doing something similar before. With a gammy knee still causing some problems after the fitzroy hike I just hoped no more injuries would appear.

    Upon registering at the park office and paying the fee (three times more then locals) we watched a video about fire saftey, the park having been devastated by fire in the past. A quick ferry ride across a lake gave a taster of the awsome views we would see. We made it to the start of our trek at Paine Grande. We would trek from there to Refugio Gray a 11km walk.

    Getting used to walking with a heavy-ish backpack was lovely (sarcasm), thank god for walking poles. Thankfully we had blue skies, light winds and streams full of cold refreshing glaciar water. After an hour or so we started spotting iceburgs on the lake, and soon we came to a view of glacier gray itself. It wound back into the distance, part of the massive patagonian ice field beyond. We sat and had some lunch and a cheeky bird of pray landed only a meter away.

    Trekking down to refugio gray we passed through charcoled forests from the previous fires. It was extremely sad to see especially when you walked through enchanting green forests afterwards.

    We reached refugio gray, passed the people in luxury (cheaters according to James), and set up camp in a forested area in our cozy bright yellow tent. We made some tasty pasta with chorizo with our nifty little stove, and stared in awe at people using white gas with their BBQ style flames! I was out like a light the moment my head hit my makeshift pilow (a pile of clothes).

    Next day my knee was NOT happy so I passed on the extra km and chilled in the campsite sunbathing whilst gobbling ibuprofen. Once they kicked in we hiked back over to stay at Paine Grande. A lovely campsite by the lake with foxes playing up high on the rocks.

    Number of blisters= 0
    Number of km= 22
    Number of times I said Hola as people passed= >100
    Number of ibuprofens= 2    Read more

  • Sara LynRound-the-southTraveler
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    W trek day 3- The French Valley

    March 18, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    After setting camp in Paine Grande in a quiet secluded spot we were soon surrounded by over 20 American teenagers. Our peace was shattered. We set off earlier today around 10 am, still late for trekking, and ambled through rolling hills towards Campamento Italiano and the French Valley.

    After 2 hours we started to hear thunder despite the clear blue skies above. Every 30 minutes a crashing sound would echo around the park with no sign yet of its source. We continued on through a forested area with large granite mountains looming above, and the large aquamarine Norweigan lake starting to the left.

    When we arrived in Campamento Italiano we were assesed by the ranger for suitability, as going up the valley can take 3 hours and he decides when to close the trail for the day. We passed his assesment, and gleefully put our big packs down in a mound of backpacks and switched to day packs. Trekking with no weight is the most amazing feeling!

    Whilst James started his run (I'm not kidding, he can run uphill and down like a mountain goat) to the top viewpoint, I sneaked into a guided group up to the first viewpoint about halfway up. A good guide, he set a gentle pace up the steep valley, and the only thing I had to worry about was being stabbed by the walking poles of the rather elderly gent in front who liked to swing them backwards haphazardly instead of using them.

    Once we arrived at the viewpoint the source of the thunderous noise became clear. Avalanches of snow would fall down the steep slopes of Paine Grande mountain. I sat here for a few hours; first listening to the talk of the tour guide about how all the park was formed. Once the tour group decended I chatted away to fellow trekkers from Germany and South Korea whilst watching the avalanche show unfold.

    Once James was back from his run still in one piece, we headed down together, picked the unwelcome big pack and carrried on to Camp Frances. Here we camped on platforms in the trees using hammer and nails to keep the tent in place. It had THE hottest shower with rainfall head. James ran down to the shop an bought us a beer to share before bed. I was in camping heaven!

    Number of blisters=0
    Number of km= 14
    Number of Holas=>500
    Ibuprofens=4
    Number of beers that tasted of ambrosia=1/2    Read more

  • Sara LynRound-the-southTraveler
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    W trek 4- The bloody long slog

    March 19, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Today we were more prepared, up and ready to go just after sunrise. We had a lot of kilometers to cover all in a general uphill direction from Camp Frances all the way up to Campamento Torres.

    The walk started again in blue skies with no wind, so as we walked along the side of a lake it looked like a mirror reflecting the great mountains above. We ambled along rolling hills in peace and quiet until a ranger on a horse burst out of the wilderness followed but two timid Americans. How not to do the W trek.

    The skies darkened and a light rain fell for the rest of the day. I was thankful as it helped cool me down. We reached a sign declaring a short cut up to our destination. It really didn't feel like a short cut! Through boggy fields we trekked, getting our shoes soaked in mud more than once and when trying to find footholes my trekking pole would go more than half a meter deep.

    Passing a British couple we warned them of the bog to come and in return I asked how far the next camp was. They replied miles and miles with smiles. Having already done miles and miles, I doubted them very much and set off to prove them wrong.

    A gruelling constant uphill later we joined the normal path and soon could see an alpine hut with inviting smoke poring from its chimney. We had made it to what a few had dubbed "Disneyland". We had been warned that this camp entices you in with warmth, beer and food. A honey trap, if you stay to long you won't be able to make it to your own campsite further up the valley, and they charge you extortionate prices to stay!!

    As we were making good time (take that British couple!), we had a quick sandwich and a drink before escaping up the valley to our last campsite at the base of the towers climb. A free campsite it was basic but picturesque in a sheltered forest with a stream running through the middle. We set up camp and ate early knowing that we had to get up very early the next morning to see the sunrise.

    Number if blisters= Still 0!!
    Number of km= 23ish
    Number of holas= I stopped counting
    Number of expensive sandwiches=2    Read more

  • Sara LynRound-the-southTraveler
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    W trek 5- The towers three

    March 21, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Blurry eyed at 5:30 we hustled our day bag together, strapped on our headtorches and headed into the darkness towards the towers. A 1.2km hike up a very steep incline for sunrise, its the only path shaded red for difficulty so even the Patagonians rate it hard. That means its STEEP.

    Many of you who have come across me early in the morning know that I don't function... at all. Barely any words come out and most communication and tasks are impossible. So imagine what poor James had to overcome with me without caffine or any breakfast. With a LOT of cajouling we fumbled our way up in an hour, a good 30 minutes before sunrise.

    Picking a sheltered spot, we sat down and waited to see what happened at sunrise as the towers were shrouded in fog. As sunrise came the towers remained hidden but the orange haze and a rainbow gave it a moody magnificence. When we started down the clouds started to fade so climbing back up off the path we saw the towers clearly with blue skies behind.

    We had 4 hours to get down to the hotel, a quick noodle breakfast and we headed off, smiling at the day trippers as they huffed their way up. We made good time, again in brilliant sunshine and celebrated with a beer at the bottom. W trek completed!!

    A sleepy bus ride back, and a very long hot shower we headed out and eat our own bodyweight in meat, before having a long deep sleep.

    I was never sure before the hike that I would make it. I am really quite proud of myself: as a novice hiker I complete over 70km with a backpack and little luxury!

    Number of blisters= 0!! - well done boots
    Number of holas= must have been a thousand passing all the daytrippers
    Number of km= 11km
    Whole trip around 70km
    Happy backpackers= 2    Read more

  • Sara LynRound-the-southTraveler

    Y Wladfa

    March 23, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    We spent a day in Puerto Natales after the trek just sitting around the hostel doing the least possible. Having done the trek we blossomed into advice givers for the few in the hostel that had just arrived.

    A particular young dutch man was set on doing the trek with a ton of food with no equipment to cook it. His plan was to bribe others with choclate to use theirs. We gently advised at least buying a stove as free gas could be found in most campsites if his plan fell through!

    After another long bus journey we've arrived in Puerto Madryn. Here we are lucky enough to be hosted by Maelor and Sonia, a couple who speak Welsh, and have stayed in Eifionydd before whilst visiting Wales. We're staying in one of their lovely flats not far from the seafront. The perfect place to unwind and relax for a couple of days after the first hectic month of travelling.

    Exploring the area we've found a statue commemorating the Welsh settlers and the caves the settlers created as shelter when they first arrived. By the caves we bumped into a couple of Welsh girls from Caernarfon, Gwennan is the girlfriend of Osian from Llanuwchllyn. Byd bach!

    Entering the museum I was delighted to be welcomed in Welsh by the staff member who had only been learning Welsh for a month. An interesting museum it had the account of the first few settlers including a murder attempt!

    Afterwards we enjoyed a lovely tea with Maelor and Sonia in their flat overlooking the seafront, and Maelor helped us buy bus tickets onwards to Gaiman due to our pitiful Spanish!    Read more

  • Sara LynRound-the-southTraveler

    Trelew and Gaiman

    March 26, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 32 °C

    With a sad heart we packed our bags and left our little haven in Puerto Madryn towards Trelew. Also a Welsh settlement with a smattering of welsh on its signs. After playing the usual game of "for godsake give me some money" with 6 ATMs and 4 different banks we had a bite to eat before hunting some dinasours.

    Over the years more and more dinasour bones have been found in patagonia, and Trelew has its research centre and museum. Here we got to touch a real dinasour femur, and see the most recent bones found, of the yet un-named dinasour. The biggest ever found in the world, its femur was 2m tall and it weighed a whopping 42 tonnes.

    We carried on to Gaiman where the Welsh was more obvious. Arriving at Ty Gwyn having been Whatsapping Camilla, the grandaughter of the owner for advice the last few days, they kindly let us leave our big packs there for the afternoon so that we could explore the town. Before we set off we had an amazing tea service there (I've missed tea!), with over eight different cakes. It felt like we were in an old grannies house with oak dressers and tea cossies.
    We had a lovely chat with Sonia before leaving them to prepare for a local wedding that evening.

    We found the first house built in Gaiman and had a lovely tour round the heritage museum meeting Fabio who spoke perfect Welsh, and wished James well with his learning. We popped down to Capel Bethel to see it set up for the wedding, and could hear some welsh music from within. Dressed in shorts and jeans and being eaten alive by mosquitos (I counted 10 leeching on me at the same time!) we turned back, and failing to find an open restaraunt (we still aren't used to the late meal times here) we had a 2nd tea service by the lovely Anna.

    Now came the tricky bit. I had booked a night bus from Gaiman to Esquel but where the bus picked us up was a mystery. Maelor didn't know, the ticket office in Puerto Madryn didn't know, luckily Sonia and Anna gave us a notion of a corner to stand in. A few minutes before the bus a friendly spanish couple stopped their car and ushered us to the correct area. Watching lightening dance across the sky while waiting, the bus thankfully turned up just before the skies opened in earnest.

    The bus was a nightmare, with the indoor temperature being a roasting 30 we both had a fitfull nights sleep. Esquel on a Sunday is a quiet peaceful place surrounded by low lying mountains. Sunning ourself in the plaza for a while, we spent the day relaxing before heading to Barioloche.    Read more

  • Sara LynRound-the-southTraveler
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    Bariloche

    March 27, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    As we pulled up to the centre square of Bariloche it seemed the bus had travelled to Europe. With quaint lodges surrounding the square it looked like an Austrian village. The square itself was covered in the white hankerchiefs of the missing mothers. A reminder that the terror of the dictatorship ran throughout Argentina, not just its capital. To the right of the square is a tall building and at the very top was our hostel- the penthouse! The views are amazing, all for under £15, with a good kitchen and breakfast included. A bargain for expensive Argentina.

    We explored the main streets that were full of ice cream and chocolate shops, listening to buskers as we went. Stopped for lunch in a cafe popular with the locals. On hearing that we were Welsh the waiter would name a different Welsh rugby ledgend as he passed our table "JP Williams! Gareth Jenkins!". Back at the hostel sitting in the balcony, the plan for the next few days were hatched, though hiking is good here, we'd mix it up for some kayaking and cycling.

    Hostel- Hospedaje penthouse 1004, great balcony with views across the lake. A big communal area and nice dorm rooms with a chilled atmosphere.    Read more

  • Sara LynRound-the-southTraveler
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    1

    Bariloche- It's time to get active

    March 30, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    With so many lakes around it made sense to get on one so we booked a tour to go kayaking. We joined our lovely guides Natalia and Pablo, and with only one more tourist from London we were pushed off onto lake gutierrez. The person at the front sets the pace when paddling whilst the one in the back steers. We had a few hicups on the way there. My pace setting was erratic, and we crashed into the others a few times as James got his bearings! It was hard to concentrate whilst looking at the surroundings and being battered by wind and waves.

    As I was flagging, we pulled into a beach and were served cheesy rolls, coffee and mate. Natalia explained how to prepare mate and its rules.

    1. The one who prepared the mate must be the first to drink the mate
    2. Once you have finished the mate you must hand it back to the host, never share with someone else when it's your turn
    3. You must drink at least 2 rounds, or the host will think you did not like their mate
    4. Only say thank you when you've had enough and want to be excused from the round.

    Fully refreshed we headed back, and we swapped roles. We went much faster on the way back and look coordinated in the pictures! Arms aching we spent the night playing cards against a father and daughter duo. Whilst never winning, I was never the shithead either and was accused of cheating!

    Next morning after James did a bit of cajouling we set off to do a bike ride around circuito chico. In its shortened form its around 24km of cycling round a few lakes in the llao llao peninsula. Having not riden a bike in over a decade it was trial by fire as we headed off. Its true what they say...

    The uphills could be tough but the joy of having a few kilometers to speed down while giving my thighs a rest was amazing. We passed the famous llao llao hotel and then stopped by the foot of a trail and hiked up to the top of a steep hill. The panoramic view of lakes, forests and mountains was stunning.

    After James had completed his photoshoot with a posing bird we carried on round the circuit with the goal of reaching a small brewery set up by Patagonian beer. This beer is one of the best we've tasted in Argentina and we have been enjoying it since Buenos Aires. A modern building with good views and a random signpost stating how far Wales was, we were initally ignored by the staff. After 3 attempts we figured out the lay of the land and had 2 very good pale ales and food to fuel the remainder of the journey.

    Starting off again was painful on the bum and thighs! We had a few km left but the road got busier. I nearly fell off the bike once as I lost control and hit gravel but did a miracilous save. It did add a few bruises to my trekking ones. At the end of the day I was glad to hand the bicycle back and enjoy being able to sit in comfort again!

    Next day was a travel day. Buying the renowned choclates before we left towards Chile and Valdivia. This bus had a smelly customer. I don't care how hippy you become as a long term traveller, organic deodrants and soap are easily available. The hostel in Valdivia had a welcoming hostess and a crows nest bed for James. Pucon and the volcano await...    Read more

  • Sara LynRound-the-southTraveler

    Pucon

    March 31, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    After an unsettled night the journey to Pucon wasn't much better. From an unknown source (I hope not my own cooking!), I had another stomach bug. However on arrival to Pucon, with blue skies, and a welcoming touristic vibe I felt a little better. To the left of the town towering in the distance stood volcano Villarrica with ice covering its summit. It looked strangely breathtaking on its own, after being used to mountain ranges. It rises up from the surrounding landscape as a big conical monster.

    On arrival to the hostel we had a small talk about what to do in Pucon. You could stay here for weeks! Volcano climbs, hiking, hydrospeed, canyoning, horse riding, thermal springs and more! It earns its name as adventure capitol of Chile!

    Hitting the hostel bar for happy hour they had four different types of local beer, including a purple berry beer which they promised was full of antioxidants. I tried it in hope it would help my poor stomach as we watched the sunset over the lake. As it got darker, if you looked at the volcano you could see an orange glow from the top. A reminder that its one of the most active in Chile!

    After a few games of Mafia (A brilliant game that I haven't played since 6th form!) with the other guests we nodded off in our very cosy treehouse.

    We continued our streak with really good hostels, this one was called kiwi chili lakefront. It’s run by backpackers, with amazing rooms, a small bar, and luckily for us a chef! We had booked a private room for my birthday which turned out to be a treehouse!    Read more

  • Sara LynRound-the-southTraveler

    Pucón, Chile- It's my birthday

    April 1, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Having had a lovely lazy morning in the treehouse the adventure we had chosen for my birthday was hydrospeeding. Never heard of this? Neither had we!
    The water around Pucon wasn’t good enough for white water rafting, so this is the alternative. Instead of being in a raft you go down the river using a bodyboard and reinforced thick suit!

    Dropped off at the top of the river after being kitted out- for me this included a fetching pair of white goggles (I think the only pair in Pucon) to protect my contacts from being washed away. After quick instructions we followed the guide closely down the river. He carved out a path away from rocks... mostly. After a few bumps we learnt how to avoid the bruises by spreading our legs out and steering with our fins.

    It was 14km down the river and we went through a fair few rapids, two lots being strong carrying us through by the fast moving water. It flipped a few of us! James had the go pro mounted to his head so we should have good footage to show in July. Damp and happy we headed back to the hostel.

    James had a browse of the local restaraunts and chose an amazing steak house called La Maga as a birthday treat. With drops of rain starting as we entered the restaraunt, this soon turned into a massive thunderstorm with roars of thunder above. It was very theatrical. We chose an amazing Merlot and I had a mouthwatering ribeye with some roasted pepper and melted cheese. An amazing birthday!    Read more

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