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Rolling on Europe
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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeПутешественник
    Avalanche had ripped the hillside down to the lakePapuogna by stormy night1Camp at Lake PapuognaPapuogna gleaming in the morning

    Lai da Palpuogna

    6 июня 2024 г., Швейцария ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Climbing past Preda, I came upon this beautiful lake that Sarna had tipped me about. Fed by fresh snowmelt pouring in a rage over the rocks, the water was clear and cold. I found a cozy spot for my tent and sat down to have another picnique magnefique as the sun set in the gap between the two mountains.

    I woke up to be accosted by Daniel, who was very friendly and spoke passionately. He spoke to me of the Bahia faith, its philosophy and how there are only 1400 of them in Switzerland. He had lived 15 years in China and was now back here... All this while I was still packing my tent and walking back on to the road. It's crazy how many different kind of people one meets on a slow travel. He probably thought the same about me, as we said our byes.    Читать далее

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeПутешественник
    Skirting past avalanchesAt Albulapass 2315 mDeep talk with Jeannette of the Albula Hospiz1

    Albulapass

    7 июня 2024 г., Швейцария ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    I set about climbing the final stretch up to Albulapass up at 2315 m. This was going to be my highest climb yet.

    The sun was beaming down bright on my attempt and it felt great to be riding this high in my shorts. The opening of the pass had been delayed by yet another week, apparently due to avalanches. I went past the barricades and climbed on up to have a fully motor-free experience of this mountain way.

    I could see why the road was still closed: on the upper sections there was snow piled up on the banks up till my chest. I was skirting past the avalanches they were planning to clear in the next few days. I pulled up to Albulapass without major difficulties, feeling pretty great.

    Right up at the top of the pass, was a little guest house. I peeked in for a coffee, expecting it to be closed. Jeannette, who runs the place, handed me one and we got chatting. We ended up speaking for several hours in a great heart-to-heart. It felt like yet another old friend I had met. What a spiritual place for the meeting too.

    Eventually we both peeled ourselves away from the conversation, and then I freewheeled down the great slope, smiling at the snow and rocks.    Читать далее

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeПутешественник
    Way to Zernez
    Old-school avalanche protection

    Zernez and beyond

    7 июня 2024 г., Швейцария ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The freewheeling descent from Albulapass was brilliant! The impeccable swiss roads really shine for this purpose.

    The ride along the Engadin to Zernez was quite varied, passing through dandelion-infested river plains, rough pine forests and villages with solid stone houses.

    At Zernez, I decided to climb towards Ofenpass (Il Fuorn) since I had some fight left in me. This is the Romanian speaking part of the country. I reached the border of the Parc Naziunal Svizzer and made camp just outside it.    Читать далее

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeПутешественник
    At OfenpassCafe at Ofenpass

    Ofenpass

    8 июня 2024 г., Швейцария ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    The way up to Ofenpass is a single road through the (only) national park. And on a sunny weekend like this, all the fancy cars and bikers are out to play. Contrasting experience to the solitude in gigantic mountains that the ride up Albulapass had been. The views into the natural park were splendid, I admit.

    At Ofenpass at 2100m, there was a cafe. I sat down to have a brew and a pre-noon beer to celebrate. The motorbikers looked at my loaded bike with raised eyebrows.    Читать далее

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeПутешественник
    Beautiful but tough climb
    1Go into that white storm?1Umbrail pass starts to white out1In val mustair

    Umbrail and Stelvio

    8 июня 2024 г., Швейцария ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    The climb up to Umbrail and Stelvio pass is legendary. It's a fine bit of road engineering that snakes its way up some mighty mountains.

    I decided to take it on as the second climb of the day, going up to 2500 m or more to Stelvio. As I climbed, the sunny weather turned to a wet and cold sleet. I wasn't ready to turn back so I pulled on rain gear and went into the white, puzzling and amusing the motorbike riders.

    The view from Umbrail pass was heavenly! The thick white fog of clouds was being dragged over the top to the other valley - dramatic! Stelvio pass was still closed due to too much snow. So the 48 hairpin bends down the other side will have to wait another day. This is the highest amount of snowfall since the 90s.    Читать далее

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeПутешественник
    St Johann Kloster in Mustair
    1Via Claudia Augusta3Merano apples

    Mustair a Merano

    9 июня 2024 г., Италия ⋅ 🌩️ 21 °C

    The St. Johann Kloster in Mustair seems to be a big deal, with UNESCO status and lot of visitors. Since there was no way to ride my bicycle through it, I rode past it. Somewhere in the woods there was a little sign - I was now in Italy!

    Buongiorno Südtirol! Or maybe it is Guten Tag, because this north eastern part of Italy speaks German. The people have a very interesting mix of Roman and Aryan features.

    It had rained during the night, and so the barrage of water continued. The nice cycling path Via Claudia Augusta was flanked by an angry, frothing Adige river that hissed and buzzed at me.

    The few fruit trees had turned into orchards, then into massive farms. This corridor is the biggest producer of apples in Italy and the stacks of crates and the lines of trees went beyond the eye could see. So I thought it fitting to spend the night in an apple orchard overlooking the town of Merano.    Читать далее

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeПутешественник
    Adige river spitting at meSouth Tirol mountainsCelebrate the ascents!Lago di Monticolo Grande1Lago di Monticolo piccolo

    Lago di Monticolo

    10 июня 2024 г., Италия ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    It rained and rained hard during the night. Luckily I remained dry. But all that water had made the Adige river to be spitting angry. It was daunting to be riding next to it all morning out of Merano.

    Italian veggies and pattisserie are delicious!

    I met a friendly and cute woman, and we got talking about this region. She gave me the idea to go visit some nearby lakes. I got off the river path and climbed into the vineyard hills. The cycle path quality was really excellent, with even dedicated tunnels going through the hills.

    I reached the twin lakes of Lago di Monticolo. The water was clear, calm warm and just splendid to swim in. A snake swam past me and I felt like Schopper looked at me with raised eyebrows. The lakes are surrounded by thick forest and cool paths that go around them.

    As I followed them, I realized I had not yet celebrated my ascent of three mountain passes in two days - so some yummy Italian pizza and apricot knödel was brought to me. Plus they have German weissbier too!    Читать далее

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeПутешественник
    1Prim and proper againFree wash of shoes and socks

    Through Bolzano

    11 июня 2024 г., Италия ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Another night of rain at the lake. I woke up to a bright blue sky with the sunlight streaming through the leaves. The water was perfectly still creating a brilliant mirror to the clouds. Thin wisps of fog swirled at the surface like djinns scattered by the light.

    After drying my gear in the sun, I got back on Schopper and rode back to the cycle path and headed to Bolzano. The vineyards of South Tyrol looked splendid today. At Bolzano, an Afghani magician with the clippers transformed me into a civilized man again.

    The path north of Bolzano went along the river, still turbulent and sputtering. I came to a flooded underpass and rode through it. It was deeper than I guessed, and my front bags went fully underwater. My socks and shoes got a free wash, probably necessary by now.

    As I rode further, the path got hemmed in tight by the green lush mountains on both sides.    Читать далее

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeПутешественник
    My only view of a limestone peakArrived fully drenched at my host

    Up to Val Gardena

    11 июня 2024 г., Италия ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    At Barbiano, I headed east into the mountains. Taking the less traveled road, I climbed up towards Val Gardena. The scenery was beautiful, but the clouds started to shroud the majestic green mountains.

    By the time I reached Santa Cristina it was pouring down heavily. The road sign announced the Dolomites. Drenched in the rain, I laughed with excitement like a madman. With the clouds, all I had seen was the tip of a limestone peak for a minute. I am now in the Dolomites!    Читать далее

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeПутешественник

    Langental

    12 июня 2024 г., Италия ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    After a week of sleeping outdoors in the rain, I could sleep in till late - dry and comfy indoors. Also useful after the conversation with Heidi went on till midnight.

    After the restful morning, I set out to cycle into Langental. Oh wow, what beautiful vistas. Huge limestone towers topped with crags and spires burst out of the forested landscape. It is indeed like a local grand canyon. Even though it rained again, the rocks and the mountains were so beautiful.

    In the evening, I cooked up an Indian meal and shared it with Heidi and Werner and their daughters. He has been a hiking guide in these mountains for 20 years. I learnt a lot about these lands, and we put together a route for me tomorrow.    Читать далее

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeПутешественник

    Seiser Alm

    13 июня 2024 г., Италия ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    I set out to ride though the Seiser Alm (Alpe de Suisi), a high Alpine plateau. Though it started cloudy, the sky soon cleared up. Finally a sunny day to enjoy a day up in the Dolomites.

    The Alpine meadows undulated in shades of bright green, dotted with a million dandelions dancing yellow in the sun. Then the Dolomitic massifs would suddenly appear, robbing my breath away. The limestone spires and needles and walls gleamed in the sunlight, not letting me focus on the path. Stunning scenery!

    The ride was all gravel and rough, but Schopper crunched through the track. He was born for this grit!

    After a wonderful dinner of Schlutzkrapfen and other Tyrolienne delights, I sat with Werner and Heidi looking through their incredible photos. His artwork delights in the shadows and contrasts of the lands in the snow.

    What a great way to celebrate day 100 of our trip!    Читать далее

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeПутешественник

    Pic Bg hike

    14 июня 2024 г., Италия ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Early this morning, I headed out for a hike up to Pic Bg with Heidi. This was her Heimberg that she wanted to show me. The trail went though a spruce forest before emerging on to an alpine meadow.

    We reached the top with a view from above the clouds. Up here the conversation somehow gets deeper. We then walked down a raw trail. Seems like she wanted to check my Ziegenfuss credentials on this rock trail. A beautiful hike overlooking the peaks of Langkofel and Plattkofel.

    There were several visitors to the house when we returned. The conversation fluidly switched between the native language of Ladinisch, and then Italian and German. This pluralist culture is rare and cool to witness.    Читать далее

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeПутешественник

    Coral Gardena

    14 июня 2024 г., Италия ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    In the afternoon, I packed up and set off to the east, crossing the ski town of Selva Wolkenstein. A mountain cycle race called Hero was on today. Pity I had not registered.

    The road wound it's way like a snake up the green hills. I cranked slowly up to (Grödnerjoch) Gardena pass, which gives the valley its name. The pass runs past the Sella group of mountains. This incredible massif rises straight towards the sky, baring it's massive and textured rock face to distract us puny travelers on the road.

    This whole massif used to be coral reefs in the tropical ocean. I could see ancient coral reefs growing up to keep up with the rising sea level. Then there are broad and tall mesas which were once coral atolls. The geology of the Dolomites is fascinating and splendid.

    Looking up at these marvelous rocks as I crossed the Gardena pass at 2135 m, I realized I have never been deeper in a coral reef.    Читать далее

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeПутешественник
    Gabriela was also a solo cyclistCamping under CunturinesCunturines peak

    Cunturines

    15 июня 2024 г., Италия ⋅ 🌫 10 °C

    The campsite at Colfosco was green and wide, so I stayed there. First time since April that I stayed in an established campsite. There I met Gabriela from Poland, who was also out cycling on her own. We had a good conversation, exchanging tips and stories, that went on past midnight.

    I followed a lovely cycle path along the Gran Aga river. I was feeling slow and relaxed today. So when the dramatic Cunturines peak suddenly appeared on my path ahead, I decided that 13 km is enough riding for today. I hung out with some beers, writing in my journal and finishing with a great restaurant meal.

    The Cunturines peak was always in sight, with its beautiful orange and ochre patterning. Great place to camp out for the night.    Читать далее

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeПутешественник
    Tofano group
    Valparola passA rock climber works his way up

    Valparola pass

    16 июня 2024 г., Италия ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    I woke up to the Cunturines peak glowing in the morning sun. After a slow breakfast, I started cycling up towards Valparola pass. The route curves around the Tofano group, another beautiful set of rock massifs, more striped with sedimentary layers.

    It is a sunny weekend, and the first day of the summer break in Italy. So there are plenty of families and motorbikers about. The road is still empty enough for Schopper to feel the slope up.

    Up at the pass at 2170 m, a brisk wind keeps my drink cool. I'm told it's all downhill from here - and wow, what a great downhill! The serpentine road is narrow and cuts through thick forest, with sudden views on to the Lagocernera group of mountains to the south.    Читать далее

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeПутешественник
    Cortina d'Ampezzo
    Lagocernera group1Camp near Peaio

    Dolomiti d'Ampezzo

    16 июня 2024 г., Италия ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    The road twists and turns, but it's all downhill for me, between the Lagocernera group and the Marmarole group. Great views on both sides as I descend to Cortina d'Ampezzo.

    This big city is a major tourism base. So I stop off for a beer and a sandwich, and just linger about to feel the vibe. The tourists seem very relaxed, with the sun shining warm - and then a bout of rain sends them scurrying.

    I ride out and join a bicycle path that runs along the Torrente Boite. There is not a single other cyclist on this gravel path, and so I enjoy the tranquil crunching of stones as Schopper rolls over happily. The hills close on both sides of the road, so I camp under some trees. Next to it is a little stream I could bathe in. And then watch the sunset with a beer, that surprisingly hasn't lost all its fizz from being shaken about.    Читать далее

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeПутешественник
    View from Villa Gaia
    Marmarole groupAt Monte RiteMagical MichaelaCamping at Villa Gaia

    Villa Gaia to Monte Rite

    17 июня 2024 г., Италия ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Woke up to a view of the hillside bathed in sunshine and birdsong. When I got ready to go, Schopper's gears were no longer working. Hmm... this is not good. I twiddled around till I managed to repair it. And we were on our way.

    Feeling proud I treated myself to an apfelstrudel at Villa Gaia looking on to Monte Rite. There I met Toni, the beer sommelier, who gave me tips on various mountain routes.

    I asked him: "Why do you speak fluent German?"
    "I grew up in Bremen", he said.
    This small world delighted us.

    I set off on my first mission: to climb up Monte Rite. Looking at it from the cafe, it seemed impossibly tall and distant. The path was a well paved road, going through one or two villages and then through the forest above. On reaching the peak at 2183 m altitude, the view on to the Marmarole group is fantastic. There is the Messner mountain museum on top, from which there is a 360⁰ panorama. Spectacular view!

    I was lucky to get a beer from the rifugio at the top. Not sure what additives they add to it here, but cold beer always tastes so good up at this height. I rode the 1600 m down in a blaze. The winding road twisting through forests and opening up to mountains felt too exhilarating to consider the danger at 50 km/h.

    Back at Villa Gaia to pick up my bags, I thought to have a quick nibble to eat. The hostess Michaela had other plans. Her suggestions took me on a culinary journey, with delicious serving after another. I lingered on delighting in the food, the wine, the dessert and the flavored grappas she made herself. Mango & Thyme, or Pepperoncono & Salvia. Delicious!

    She offered that I could put up my tent in their garden. What a great end to a great day! The 4 km I have moved since last night has been a grand epicurean journey.    Читать далее

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeПутешественник
    Ringing the bell at San Dionisio11

    Ringing San Dionisio

    18 июня 2024 г., Италия ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Woken by trash trucks at dawn, I remember why sleeping in the forest is better. Over coffee, Andrea tells me that many wolves have been spotted around here. He's the third person to mention it. Previously, this valley was Europe's hub for manufacturing spectacles. Once all the business and people left (mostly to Germany), I guess the wolves have found some living space.

    Samuele from the villa gets chatting with me, serving up leftover breakfast from the hotel. We talk about travels and the economy of the place. He hugs me goodbye and says I should stay with him next time.

    I feel like in a video game: ultra beautiful scenery, meeting characters who send me off on side quests. Today's quest is to go up the Antelao mountains to a little church at the top, but with all my bags.

    For a climb of 1100 m, it is lesser than Monte Rite yesterday - but boy does this quest turn out to be a grind. After a lot of steep switchbacks, the asphalt suddenly disappears. The rest of 450 m climb is over loose rock, tree roots, gravel and eventually just a single track held in from a sheer drop by a thin strip of grass. I had to push Schopper and his bags uphill over this for several hours. Not fun!

    I finally arrive at the church of San Dioniso, with a superb panorama view. Here I can see the Antelao, the Marmarole and the Friulane groups. The Rifugio Antelao was a km hike through steep forest, but there was beer and pasta to be had. Yum!

    The sunset was beautiful, with orange and pink layers on the clouds and rocks. A hard earned camp spot!    Читать далее

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeПутешественник
    2
    21Two-way bridge?

    Sublime slurry

    19 июня 2024 г., Италия ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    While I slept under a view of the moon and stars, somebody turned this game into ultra mode.

    When I woke up, the valley below was filled with clouds like a basin of milk, warming in the morning sun. The sublime view pulled me out of my tent and kept me watching for an hour, as the clouds boiled and swirled below.

    The descent was also ultra. A steep single track hiking path went down the hill, with barely enough space for me beside Schopper.
    The surface was varied: mud, grass, gravel, roots, rocks and leaves, but none of it was ridable. So I hiked and pushed.

    At a gravel section, I tried to ride down. Soon, we flipped and I ended in a handstand with Schopper held up by my legs. Despite us both being upside down, all the bike bags stayed attached - impressive.

    The asphalt section was more rock than road. It felt like we descended in a slurry of stones, slipping and sliding and scraping our way down.

    When we got to Pieve di Cadore a couple of hours later, I sat for a celebratory coffee. I felt like I owed Schopper an apology.    Читать далее

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeПутешественник
    A lingering manufacturer1Auronzo di Cadore1

    Auronzo di Cadore

    19 июня 2024 г., Италия ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    There was a lovely riverside bike path I followed. It passed through forests, towns and fields, and was dotted with reservoirs. Playing on ultra mode, the sun shone down rather hot. I drenched my cap and wore it under my helmet to keep cool.

    The Cima Gogna was impressive, standing up tall above the already hilly landscape. When I looked at the map, I was surprised to find that the river is called Piave, and not Cadore like all the towns are named.

    I arrived in Auronzo di Cadore in good time. The large lake sets the stage for a beautiful town, with churches and minarets standing out, flanked by a tall mountains range. The lake water glowed turquoise green, likely from the carbonate particles from the rocks. Good place to picnic before hunting for gelato.    Читать далее

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeПутешественник
    Ultra mode is hard to playLago di Misurina

    Misurina

    19 июня 2024 г., Италия ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    The landscape beyond Auronzo, when not forested, was entirely rocks eroded and slipped down from the towering peaks of the Marmarole group. This meant the streams had superbly clear water, and playfully hopped down the rocks in pretty zigzags.

    The Auronzo to Misurina cycling path must be recently created. Or is still being clawed out from this rocky landscape. It was entirely gravel and rock, and consistently uphill for the 25+ km it ran.

    The streams provided not just charm, but a chance to cool down. I had maybe four baths as I crunched my way up the gravel path. Many times the streams just flowed across the path, requiring an on-foot crossing to clean between the toes.

    The last section up to Misurina, at 1750 m, was steep with 15% gradients. Drenched in sweat, I still hooted with delight at the panoramic view of the Sextner Dolomites all around. I finally reached a campsite, and sat there dazed with a beer. What a surreal day! Hiking down from above the clouds, surfing rivers and lakes, and climbing gravel back up to this wonderland. Playing this game in ultra mode is hard, but oh so pretty.    Читать далее

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeПутешественник

    Tre Cime nature park

    20 июня 2024 г., Италия ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    The last few days have been hard on my body. Plus I think Schopper is annoyed with me. So today I decided to take it easy. This means going for a 10 km hike up at 2400 m around the iconic peaks of the Tre Cime nature park.

    The road up has 20% gradients. Thankfully, there's a bus I could take. Not just for gradients, but the road was full of cars heading up to fill up all five of the parking lots by 9 am.

    I could see why. This natural park provides easy access to spectacular mountains, particularly the famous three peaks. As I walked a loop, I found it easier to walk faster rather than slow. My legs are now pistons that run at bicycling cadence. Not a rest day really, but it was an easier pace to enjoy magnificent mountains.

    I considered staying another night, but the hike and the campsite had too many people for my liking. So at 5 pm I did what seemed most logical: I bought some blueberry grappa and I set out for Austria.    Читать далее

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeПутешественник
    Lago di Landro
    Lago di DobbiacoGrass snake

    Grüß Gott Österreich!

    20 июня 2024 г., Австрия ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    The path out from Misurina went downhill all the way. After a few exciting switchbacks on asphalt with the van people waving at me, I got on to a gravel path. Crunching up gravel at 30 km/h is so much more fun! The river that this path followed got bigger as it reached the Fanes-Sennes-Prags nature park.

    I stopped off at a couple of lakes to taste the grappa and have dinner. The waterbirds bathing rippled through the reflection of the mountains in the crystal clear water. Very relaxing.

    At Dobbiaco, I turned east on to the Eurovelo 7. And now it was asphalt, with trail signs and a pleasant downward ride through green hillsides. The Drau river was racing with me, and losing.

    Riding along a turn, with no warning, I entered Austria again - 230 km away from when I had last accidentally entered. A little further I found a forest to pitch my tent. Despite the lake breaks, I had covered more distance since 5 pm than all of yesterday. Grüß Gott!    Читать далее

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeПутешественник
    Lienz altstadt
    21Laundry at the Drau

    Two tone Carinthia

    21 июня 2024 г., Австрия ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    The forest was abuzz with fireflies and grey moths and other little insects. I rode out in the morning along the Drau, a relaxed ride through fields and pine forests. There were logging sites, where I breathed deep the strong aroma of pine wood. The ride past the Lienzer Dolomites brought me to the pretty little town.

    The ride through Carinthia was in two tones of color. A gray haze blanketed the sky ahead with shadowy shapes of mountains in the distance. As I zipped through them, they turned into a bright green tunnel of forests. The air was heavy with vapor and the smell of rain brewing.

    A relaxed day, so a good chance to do some laundry at the river. The wind picked up to blow dry the clothes fastened to the rack of Schopper.

    I climbed up the hill near Weissensee and found a beautiful spot in an old forest, with tall ferns from which the fireflies and moths emerged again. Later in the night, the weather made up it's mind and rained down with lightning and thunder. A powerful experience in a tent in a forest!    Читать далее

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeПутешественник
    1
    1

    Presseggersee

    22 июня 2024 г., Австрия ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    The sky had relieved itself with the night storm and was now blue and bright. I rode through the Glitschtal at an easy pace. At a cafe, a couple noticed Schopper and got talking about the places to visit on my route ahead.

    I rode till I arrived at Presseggersee. This azure jewel of an alpine lake is cradled by the forested peaks of the Carnic alps on both sides. I swam out to the middle of the lake and floated about laughing in delight and refreshment. Well played, Carinthia!

    After a couple of hours and gin-tonics at the lake, I was feeling very good. I was now riding along the Gailtal. Beautiful mountain views flanked the route. I was tired from the lack of sleep due to the thunderstorm, but could find a shaded spot to camp, so I rode on ahead.

    There ahead is Slovenia, but the tri-national border is a mountain top. As I go around the mountain, I end up on the path to Tarvisio in Italy. I climbed up to camp with a view to the Dolomitic peaks.    Читать далее

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