Sep – Oct 2022

Dos Camino

I walked from Santiago de Compostela to Muxia/Finisterra, then Porto to Santiago on the Camino Portuguese Coastal. Read more

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Day 8
Monday, September 19, 2022 at 7:37 AM
🌙 17 °C
Altitude: 15 m
Spain Punta da Barca 43.112103, -9.21845543°6’44” N 9°13’6” W
Camino Fisterre Day 5
September 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 17 °C
I’ve included a few shots of the sunset last night. Today is 28 km, my longest walk so far. To give myself a break, I sent a pack ahead. Actually my smaller pack, with some heavier/bulkier items. That way I still had a good fitting pack and my water system, which I put extra water into. Good thing I had leftovers yesterday, I used them for a good breakfast today.Read more
TravelerBeautiful sunset, Arlene.
9/19/22Reply
TravelerFor sure!
9/20/22Reply
I finally got to see all the pics etc., after taking to Greg. Beautiful! We are thinking of you always and you are in our prayers for a wonderful journey. Hope to see Greg this week. Hugs from Gigo and me. [Ruth]
9/19/22Reply
TravelerThank you ☺️
9/20/22Reply
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Day 8
Monday, September 19, 2022 at 8:31 AM
☀️ 17 °C
Altitude: 70 m
Spain Moraime 43.081453, -9.21377843°4’53” N 9°12’50” W
Muxia to As Lires
September 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
What a beautiful morning! I was told to expect a hill at the beginning, and the first hour was pretty much up! The trail started on the road, but went into the forest after a bit, still climbing. There were a series of stone benches, I added my philosophy to one. For a while I was walking with the Canadians, and who did we find heading the other direction? More Canadians! Now I’ve met four. So we took a photo to mark the event. Besides Dennis and Carl from Ottawa, there were Cathy and her husband (name escapes me right now). And I met some more wildlife. I was also happy to see a vending machine with some tables and a flush toilet (part of the little structure, not part of the vending machine). Very welcome as there are no other services for about 16 km. Also, a kind farmer pointed me in the right direction when it was not clear.Read more
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Day 8
Monday, September 19, 2022 at 12:48 PM
⛅ 22 °C
Altitude: 63 m
Spain Loalo 43.012225, -9.23346243°0’44” N 9°14’0” W
As Lires to Buxan
September 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
I thought we were finished with hills but we were not. As the temperature climbed, so did we. Or at least lots of ups and downs. There was the ocean now and then, to get my hopes up. And a small lumber operation. Then something wonderful! A donativo rest stop. At first I thought it was a sketchy bar, then the fellow wouldn’t take our money, pointing instead to the donation jar. It was very well stocked, and came at just the right time. Great ambiance, once we knew it wasn’t a sketchy bar. Check out the video.Read more
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Day 8
Monday, September 19, 2022 at 3:09 PM
☀️ 22 °C
Altitude: 36 m
Spain Mallas 42.932475, -9.26880342°55’57” N 9°16’8” W
Buxan to Finisterre
September 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
Yay! I made it to the end of the world. Almost, I’ll go up to the lighthouse in the morning. When I arrived in town the farmacia temperature said 28! I treated myself to a private room today, I didn’t want to end up on a top bunk in a noisy albergue. So far I have been pretty lucky in that area, but since I knew I would be coming in late today, I did not want to leave it to chance. After washing and putting up my feet, I went to the harbour for some food and cerveza 🍺. Sopa marisco and a small ensalada sounded good. They were excellent, but huge! No fridge today so I did not take leftovers. Then I went to the far side of the Cabo to watch the sunset. Google maps are hilarious. It said the route is mostly flat, yet this town is built on a hill😜.Read more
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Day 9
Tuesday, September 20, 2022 at 8:57 AM
☀️ 18 °C
Altitude: 16 m
Spain Maceiras 42.811928, -9.10469642°48’43” N 9°6’17” W
Camino Fisterre Day 6
September 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
I had one small leg of this Camino to complete. But first, some photos of sunset and sunrise. It’s pretty cool that you can have an ocean view of both here.
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Day 9
Tuesday, September 20, 2022 at 9:10 AM
☀️ 18 °C
Altitude: 24 m
Spain Finisterra 42.902108, -9.26283742°54’8” N 9°15’46” W
Cabo Finisterre
September 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
There are different spellings of Finisterre/ Fisterre. But the basic translation is Finis Terra - the end of earth, or end of the world. This has been an important place even before the pilgrimage of Saint James / Santiago, with pagan and Celtic roots. And because the world was flat, of course this was the end.

It was a lovely walk up to the lighthouse, quiet in the morning and everything seemed so fresh. I met Sandra and Mary, the nurses from the UK 🇬🇧 who I had met on the way to Muxia. Back into town, I checked out of my pension, went to the tourist office for my Camino Fisterre certificate, and grabbed a snack at the mercado before catching the autobús 🚌.Read more
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Day 9
Tuesday, September 20, 2022 at 11:49 AM
☀️ 22 °C
Altitude: 18 m
Spain Caldebarcos 42.855137, -9.11510842°51’18” N 9°6’54” W
To Santiago
September 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
Since I forgot to take a photo outside my pensión today, I am including a photo of their brochure. The bus 🚌 trip to Santiago was pleasant, stopping at small towns along the coast before turning inland. The Santiago estación de autobús has been updated since last time I was here. Now right beside the estación de tren.

And just before leaving Finisterre I collected my certificate for walking to the end of the world.Read more
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Day 9
Tuesday, September 20, 2022 at 5:08 PM
⛅ 28 °C
Altitude: 273 m
Spain Parque de Bonaval 42.881347, -8.53777542°52’53” N 8°32’16” W
Santiago de Compostela
September 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C
It took a few wrong turns before I found my albergue. Eventually I did. There are cute little pods for privacy, but not for noise reduction. I checked in, did laundry and went for a walk and to do some shopping. Not much shopping - I still have another Camino to walk.

I had dinner across from Alameda Park (Doner y Kebap), then finished the evening with a vino tinto 🍷 - the bar was right beside my albergue, how convenient!Read more
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Day 10
Wednesday, September 21, 2022 at 10:21 AM
☀️ 16 °C
Altitude: 260 m
Spain Alameda Park 42.877667, -8.54625542°52’40” N 8°32’47” W
3
Santiago to Porto
September 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
My cosy pod. I had time for a café con leche and Tarte De Santiago before heading to the bus. We had a nice ride to Porto, and it was a short walk to the hostel.

Instead of settling in, I decided to head out for some food and to see the cathedral (I need a stamp to start my Camino). Gelato was enough food to start. Onward to the Cathedral.Read more
Traveler Looks exactly like mine last night.
9/21/22Reply
TravelerWhere were you?
9/21/22Reply
Traveler Najera. Stayed in Santo Domingo last night. Getting ready to head out to Belorado. I had bunks just like that a few times
9/22/22Reply
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Day 10
Wednesday, September 21, 2022 at 3:44 PM
☀️ 24 °C
Altitude: 74 m
Portugal Cattedrale di Porto 41.142953, -8.61153741°8’35” N 8°36’42” W
Se do Porto (Cathedral)
September 21, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
This is the traditional starting point of the Camino, going there today gives me a head start on walking tomorrow. Plus it is worth the tour. Lots to see, and many stairs to climb. This might require two footprints.Read more
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Day 10
Wednesday, September 21, 2022 at 4:09 PM
☀️ 24 °C
Altitude: 76 m
Portugal Museu do Tesouro da Sé do Porto 41.142617, -8.61155841°8’33” N 8°36’42” W
Porto Cathedral Part 2
September 21, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
I did climb to the top of the tower for incredible city views. And yes, I did get that stamp for my credencial.
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Day 10
Wednesday, September 21, 2022 at 4:40 PM
☀️ 24 °C
Altitude: 55 m
Portugal Fundação Maria Isabel Guerra Junqueiro E Luis Pinto Mesquita Carvalho 41.141864, -8.61010541°8’31” N 8°36’36” W
2
Porto wandering
September 21, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
When I left the cathedral, I walked over one of the bridges (there are several) over to Gaia, the port tasting area. I think the port was acting like a magnet 🧲🍷. I found a place Greg and I had enjoyed, where you get a flight of five ports for 5€, great deal. Feeling quite relaxed, I meandered back to the CoolHostel for some down time.Read more
TravelerExcellent
9/21/22Reply
TravelerI thought so.
9/22/22Reply
TravelerA whole new meaning to the expression 'bunny trail'
9/21/22Reply
Traveler😎
9/22/22Reply
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Day 11
Thursday, September 22, 2022 at 8:51 AM
⛅ 17 °C
Altitude: 92 m
Portugal Praça dos Poveiros 41.148106, -8.60558741°8’53” N 8°36’20” W
Camino P Day 1 - Porto to Matosinhos
September 22, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
I officially started Camino #2 today. But staying at the same hostel. So I had a very light bag today, and only walked about 12 km. Although that was before the walking tour I did this evening 😜🏃‍♀️.

I walked along the Douro River for a bit more than an hour, then along the Atlantic Ocean. Very nice, lots of people out suntanning, swimming, and even surfing 🏄‍♂️. I stopped at the Tourist Information booth and they gave me a pin and a small bottle of hand sanitizer. I guess they want the pilgrims to stay healthy. I celebrated with a café and a pastel de nata.

Then I walked to the bridge that I will cross tomorrow, the church nearby, and took the metro back into Porto. Lucky, the station is about 3 minutes from my hostel.Read more
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Day 11
Thursday, September 22, 2022 at 9:11 PM
⛅ 19 °C
Altitude: 92 m
Portugal Praça da Batalha 41.148095, -8.60563741°8’53” N 8°36’20” W
Porto Touring
September 22, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
I forgot to include my route map for today. I started to see yellow arrows. Not many yet. More tomorrow I’m sure.

This afternoon/evening I did a walking tour of Porto. Great guide, she even sang a short Fado song as a finale.

If you zoom in on one of the churches you can see a man playing an air mattress organ. True story!

After the tour I had some cod cakes with a glass of port. 🍷 I’m looking forward to moving on, but will miss Porto. It is a beautiful city.Read more
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Day 12
Friday, September 23, 2022 at 7:18 AM
☁️ 16 °C
Altitude: 92 m
Portugal Praça dos Poveiros 41.148139, -8.6055341°8’53” N 8°36’20” W
Camino Portuguese Day 2
September 23, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
I opted for a longer day than the guidebook suggests, just so I was able to book a bed. I now have a few booked.

I took the Metro to the spot where I finished yesterday (don’t want to cheat), and started to walk. 28-30 km today. I think I took a detour that I did not need to. This Camino, mostly along the ocean, is not as well marked as the others I have walked. Hence inadvertent detours as I figure it out.

On the plus side, hardly any hills, cool breeze from the ocean, soothing ocean noises.Read more
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Day 12
Friday, September 23, 2022 at 10:23 AM
⛅ 18 °C
Altitude: 7 m
Portugal Castelo da Póvoa 41.378623, -8.76260641°22’43” N 8°45’45” W
Matosinhos to Angeiras
September 23, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
I started the morning (once off the Metro) by crossing a large bridge, then meandered through town until I found the ocean. It’s not hard to find. And though the trail is not well marked, it is fairly easy to “keep the water on your left.”

Yesterday’s tour came in handy. When I got to the big obelisk, I already knew the story, more or less. There weren’t any coffee shops open for quite a while, and I was making good time. When I got to a fishing village (lots of cats) I found a café and a ham and cheese bun. Luckily I had eaten my pastel de nata before leaving the hostel.Read more
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Day 12
Friday, September 23, 2022 at 10:43 AM
⛅ 19 °C
Altitude: 17 m
Portugal Praia de Angeiras 41.268837, -8.72611341°16’8” N 8°43’34” W
Angeiras to Vila do Conde
September 23, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
After coffee, I was back to the boardwalk. Most of the trail today was on this boardwalk, and the rest on cobblestone. Plus a short (thankfully) area where the sand had drifted over the trail. That was tough.

I chatted with some people from Malaysia, Columbia, Germany, and New Zealand. And the people in my room are from Germany and Italy. The Camino is very international.

Once I got to Vila do Conde, I had to find a bridge to cross the large river. Once that was done, I had a fabulous lunch. Salada do Frango, or chicken salad. Very nice.Read more
TravelerWonderful scenery.
9/23/22Reply
TravelerI agree.
9/23/22Reply
TravelerDid you visit the Bobbin Lace Museum? Beautiful.
9/23/22Reply
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Day 12
Friday, September 23, 2022 at 9:40 PM
☁️ 18 °C
Altitude: 6 m
Portugal Castelo da Póvoa 41.378636, -8.76264141°22’43” N 8°45’46” W
Vila do Conde to Povoa de Varzim
September 23, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
After lunch it was difficult to find the marked route, which was more direct to the town where I would stay. So again I meandered over to the ocean and just kept the water on my left. This took longer than expected, so I think I did walk further than required. Oh well. It was still a lot easier than the day I walked to Finisterre.

Today is my first upper bunk of the trip. When I was a kid I loved the upper bunk. Not so much now. After a rest and a beer (the German in the room had some to share), I headed out for dinner. I tried a local sausage entrée. Not my favourite but not terrible either.

I could see the sunset as the restaurant is on the beach, but it was not spectacular tonight, so no photo.Read more
Traveler@Larry. Nice to see you surface on Arlene's blog. Hope you and your family are well.
9/23/22Reply
TravelerLast time I followed Arlene when she walked with Rachel ...
9/24/22Reply
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Day 13
Saturday, September 24, 2022 at 7:29 AM
☀️ 15 °C
Altitude: 7 m
Portugal Castelo da Póvoa 41.378624, -8.76254741°22’43” N 8°45’45” W
Camino Portuguese Day 3
September 24, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
One of my roommates was asleep by 8:00 last night, and gone by 6:30. The other two were out past midnight and did not stir while I got ready. I found a café for a nutritious breakfast, and was on my way.Read more
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Day 13
Saturday, September 24, 2022 at 8:14 AM
☀️ 16 °C
Altitude: 7 m
Portugal Estádio do Varzim 41.386005, -8.77306341°23’10” N 8°46’23” W
2
Povoa de Varzim to Agucadoura
September 24, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
I started along the water again today, and then along a maze of boardwalks.

The path was somewhat better marked today. At one spot there were 4 arrows all at once. To make up for the lack in other areas, presumably.

Along the beach were condos with lovely views and roll shutters to keep out any nasty weather, and a bit farther were older homes with walls that blocked all views and weather. Built in different times for different priorities.

I also saw a few camper vans parked along the ocean. Just like Walmart at home😆. Some were surfers.

I stopped for café at a beachside bar mid morning.Read more
Traveler I remember this way...similar sunny day.
9/24/22Reply
TravelerI’ve had wonderful weather!
9/25/22Reply
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Day 13
Saturday, September 24, 2022 at 11:15 AM
☀️ 20 °C
Altitude: 16 m
Portugal Apúlia 41.48058, -8.76427541°28’50” N 8°45’51” W
2
Agucadoura to Fao
September 24, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
After a coffee break it was back to the beach and the boardwalk. Eventually we were in a treed path, which was nice. There were even eucalyptus trees. Also, I walked past some gardens. The soil looks very sandy.

I visited a church, and spoke with some Canadians who were sitting near the church. They were from Airdrie.

There was a small dog that followed me, and some other pilgrims, for more than 5 km. She was cute, but I wouldn’t know what to do with a Portuguese puppy.

Tonight I have reserved a private room. I’m looking forward to that.Read more
Traveler I love going through these paths!! So beautiful calm and peaceful!
9/25/22Reply
TravelerI know!
9/26/22Reply
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Day 14
Sunday, September 25, 2022 at 7:45 AM
☀️ 12 °C
Altitude: 10 m
Portugal Cemitério Medieval das Barreiras 41.510795, -8.77352841°30’39” N 8°46’25” W
2
Camino Portuguese Day 4
September 25, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C
I had such a good sleep in my private room! I slept in a bit. But got on the trail by 8:00-ish.

Last night I walked to a local restaurant for a great meal. Simple but very good. I didn’t know about vino verde until I did the tour in Porto. It is not green, but white wine. Served chilled, and very tart and refreshing.Read more
TravelerThe perfect wine with grilled seafood and bachalau.
9/25/22Reply
Traveler I sat on that bench!
9/25/22Reply
TravelerNice! Did you stay in Fao?
9/25/22Reply
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Day 14
Sunday, September 25, 2022 at 8:28 AM
☀️ 13 °C
Altitude: 5 m
Portugal Apúlia e Fão 41.517128, -8.77094541°31’2” N 8°46’15” W
2
Fao to Esposende
September 25, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C
Leaving Fao, I crossed a bridge which led to Esposende. Some through town and some along the river. They have a great bike path along the water. The walking trail is unfortunately cobblestone. There was a lot of that today. Just before leaving town, I stopped at a café. In the washroom there was a fireplace! It is near the ocean, but is a fireplace necessary in the toilet?Read more
Traveler Go back in January. The fireplace might be better appreciated.
9/25/22Reply
TravelerI would think so.
9/25/22Reply
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Day 14
Sunday, September 25, 2022 at 10:32 AM
☀️ 16 °C
Altitude: 42 m
Portugal Marinhas 41.57002, -8.7802841°34’12” N 8°46’49” W
Esposende to Castelo do Neiva
September 25, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
I walked by lots of churches today 💒, but the most interesting was the Parish Church of St Tiago, which was established in the year 862. It has been updated of course, but is possibly the oldest church dedicated to Santiago in this part of Portugal.

There was also a river crossing with a bridge that would not have passed any safety standards at home. But it was wider than expected and actually quite sturdy. I didn’t fall off 😎.

There was a wide variation in terrain today. Cobblestones (too many), pavement, rocky paths, and a few forest trails (my favourite). And yes, even some eucalyptus trees.Read more
TravelerThanks for the memories. It was a brilliant day and hot when I crossed that bridge.
9/26/22Reply
TravelerWe had a warm day, not hot, but some girls were in bikinis in the water.
9/26/22Reply
I love the arrow made of rocks in the water beside the bridge! [Nick]
9/29/22Reply
TravelerGood eye to notice that.
9/30/22Reply
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Day 14
Sunday, September 25, 2022 at 8:03 PM
🌙 17 °C
Altitude: 33 m
Portugal Anha 41.667001, -8.79908341°40’1” N 8°47’57” W
2
Castelo do Neiva to Anhas
September 25, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 17 °C
After leaving the Santiago church, I was grateful for a donativo rest stop. The man supplying the goods obviously took a lot of pride in his oasis. I hadn’t had a lot to eat today, so was happy to indulge. And then to donate of course.

He said most pilgrims just rush on by, in a hurry. I was more than happy to rest in the shad fie a bit.

Eventually I did reach my destination, very happy to get my boots off. I went out to dinner with Coco, a pilgrim from Seattle. While there, a fellow arrived on horseback, had a cerveja, and left. Interesting.Read more
Traveler It's a good looking steed.
9/25/22Reply
Traveler Yes, for sure.
9/25/22Reply
We love seeing the wonderful adventure you are having. (We did go to the wedding yesterday with Greg.) [Ruth]
9/25/22Reply
TravelerGlad to hear. Greg enjoyed the food, I believe.
9/26/22Reply
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