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Camino de Santiago
  • Bill Ronan
  • Bill Ronan

Camino de Santiago

Une aventure de 23 jours par Bill En savoir plus
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  • Début du voyage
    19 septembre 2017
    Bill RonanCamino de SantiagoVoyageur

    Getting nervous now!

    19 septembre 2017, Angleterre ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Final preparations taking shape, as I prepare to fly to Oviedo on 27 Sept and start the last 350km of my Camino de Santiago. Travelling to Leon I hope to start walking on 28th September and look forward to meeting new people. Hope to avoid blisters this year, but as ever will walk with an open heart, an open mind, and even open eyes!!En savoir plus

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  • Bill RonanCamino de SantiagoVoyageur

    Packing Decisions

    20 septembre 2017, Angleterre ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    So, it's a familiar feeling (panic!) what to take, what to leave behind. I am referring to a list I made some time ago...actually last year to see what I should put into the rucksack or not. I need to keep the weight down to about 10kgs (yeh some hope, it was 12kgs last time, but that was the hair straightners!!). So over the next 5 days various items will appear on the bedroom floor, be packed, taken out, re-packed, removed, and re-packed. At the weekend I plan to walk 20km with the pack fully loaded, but even then this may not influence the final kit. This has been a long time in the planning, and I can't help but feel emotional just thinking about it. Oh, and as the photo shows, I will be accompanied by my special "Sheppey" rock, I started with three, left one last year, will leave another this year, and will never leave this one behind its become to special (can't explain why).En savoir plus

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  • Bill RonanCamino de SantiagoVoyageur

    Last Training Walk

    24 septembre 2017, Angleterre ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    That's the last training walk completed and four and a half hours gone! Think i covered about 14 miles, and now I am aching a little, and need a cold beer. So, fly to Oviedo on Wednesday and still have huge confusion over where to start from, how far to walk each day, and whether to take the hair straighteners or not. Don't want to look too untidy when I go to mass in Santiago, now do I.En savoir plus

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  • Bill RonanCamino de SantiagoVoyageur

    One small step...goodbye my love

    27 septembre 2017, Angleterre ⋅ 🌫 11 °C

    It's today! Waiting to board for Asturias and day one of the Camino de Santiago. It's a bitter sweet morning. Leaving the woman I love behind and stepping off into relative obscurity. Can't wait for 11th October and a hug (or three).
    Each step a little closer, each day I will hold you near, as we part we shed a tear. But soon in each others arms we will be, and then together we will cheer.    En savoir plus

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  • Bill RonanCamino de SantiagoVoyageur

    Oviedo and beyond

    27 septembre 2017, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Transiting through the beautiful city of Oviedo en route to Leon. Stopped off at Oviedo Cathedral for a stamp (sello) in my pilgrims credential. It's where I flew out when I'd finished the first half of my Camino (St Jean Pied de Port to Leon). So now two stamps a year apart. Onwards to Santiago.En savoir plus

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  • Bill RonanCamino de SantiagoVoyageur

    Camino de Santiago - Foncebadon

    28 septembre 2017, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Foncebadon has the reputation for being the home of rabid dogs - but that's not true! I've seen more cats since I stopped for the night at Albergue La Cruz de Fierro. A tough day at the end - some 25kms walked today, with the terrain rising steadily to an elevation typically shrouded in mist or buried in deep snow. Had planned to save 6kms and stop at Rufugio Guacelmo, but even though it is operated by the kind hospitaleros associated with the Confraternity of Saint James in the U.K. I chose to walk on to be near the Cruz de Ferro early in the morning (see separate post - tomorrow or 29 Sept depending on when your reading this. It was a decision I was regretting near the end. My left hip is very painful and was weak and unstable on the last climbs. Some pain killers, shed the weight and it has eased. Yes, I will be careful !!!! Guess it's the cost of a total hip displacement some years ago. Now showered, washing done and drying, I'm relaxing and will go for some dinner about 6pm (5pm Uk). And then an early night and out early in the morning. Plan to walk to Ponferrada (24kms) tomorrow.En savoir plus

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  • Bill RonanCamino de SantiagoVoyageur
    1

    Cruz de Ferro and descent to Ponferrada

    29 septembre 2017, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    The iron cross marks the highest part of the mountain pass and has become the place pilgrims leave behind a stone brought with them from home (or elsewhere) on the Camino. I brought stones from my birthplace the Isle of Sheppey (from the beach adjacent to the Catholic Church of St Henry and Elizabeth). I then passed through El Acebo a typically mountain village with rickety wooden balconies suspended over the road. Through Molinaseca; on to Campo; and finally to Ponferrada for the night. I am bedding down in the Albergue de Guiana. Ponferrada's Templar Castle is one of the best preserved examples of its kind and offers a glimpse into what castle life must have been like in the 12th and 13th centuries. Well enough of the history...my Albergue is 21st Century and while I've written this my washing has dried in the tumble drier!En savoir plus

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  • Bill RonanCamino de SantiagoVoyageur

    Villafranca del Bierzo

    1 octobre 2017, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    I have descended into the town of Villafranca del Bierzo, lost the yellow signs and ended up nearly out the other side, nearly being run over just for fun. Villafranca del Bierzo is one of the prettiest towns on the Camino. It is full of narrow streets (along which cars speed!!) that twist and dare a pilgrim not to get lost. No matter your journey very steep climbs are obligatory.
    The feet are beginning to be an issue (my biggest fear are blisters) but it appears to toe box on my boots is a little shallow and I have two (painful) black big toe nails!! So it's on with the Teva sandals today and what a relief. Oh and no mocking me, but I wore my walking socks too. Ok...it's continuing to be amazing, scenery is awesome and lifts the spirits at every turning. I may though amputate some toes. X    En savoir plus

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  • Bill RonanCamino de SantiagoVoyageur

    La Faba - Roasted Peppers and Kindness

    1 octobre 2017, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    I'm resting now in the hamlet of La Faba a small hamlet on the way up to O'Cebreiro. With little more than a dozen houses. The German Confraternity couldn't be more welcoming (something the English Albergue could learn from - maybe despite my intention to stop I didn't due to an officious English reception). My feet are very sore and I have a real risk of a blister. Couldn't stick my boots today (again) so it was in the sandals (and socks again). Missing fold at home, but non more than my love Emma. X
    Dinner tonight was a delight, just three of us (Cindy from the USA - a hospital pharmacologist , Franz from Germany - I think he's an international Bank Director; and me (Bill) from England - a village idiot 🤤). We passed through enroute to La Faba the hamlet of Pradela (Bierzo) and received at the Albergue Pradela the most beautiful welcome and kindness from the hosts. We had witnessed as we entered the town a small group of people roasting peppers on an open fire in front of a house. We spoke of this at the Albergue, and not only were we shown the store of peppers, tomatoes, and various fruits, we were given a piece of chestnut cake (chestnuts are in abundance and fall on pilgrims heads frequently) and a jar of their roasted peppers to eat. It's safe to say they were delicious and didn't last the impromptu lunch break. Franz is a true gem, frequently producing from his rucksack a feast of breads, cheeses, and meats. His conversations have been a privilege to participate in, thought provoking and incisive. For me he typified why German's are regarded so highly and rightly so.    En savoir plus

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  • Bill RonanCamino de SantiagoVoyageur

    Triacastela - up and up and down down

    2 octobre 2017, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Today after 25kms and 8 hours of mountain climbs we descended down and down into Triacastela. The excellent guidebook says to congratulate myself on a job well done, the pass into Galicia has been overcome and from here on the mountains soften in severity. Well that's great news, because today was tough on my feet. Two badly bruised toes and walking in my sandals may demand a shorter day tomorrow.En savoir plus

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  • Bill RonanCamino de SantiagoVoyageur

    Samos - Monastic Disapointment

    4 octobre 2017, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    A short day today, only 11kms (3hrs) walked today into the village of Samos. Franz (from Germany 🇩🇪) and I opted for some religious immersion. Go to the monastery and rough it in a very basic Albergue, while witnessing the life and chants of the monks. Well disappointing was our experience ! We paid for a sanitised tour (the tour guide was an excellent young women) but we saw very little. The monastery is huge, but in serious decline with only 10 men in residence. So...onto the Albergue de Perigrinos Monasterio de Samos which we discover is separate from the Monastery and simply is housed in the same building. Despite both our guide books indicating the Albergue organised tours of the monastery and benediction - it does not. It is one long vaulted space full of hobbling pilgrims, snoring, and laughing!!! Well we arrived early and we're told in welcoming terms it didn't open until 1pm and NO we could not leave our packs at 12.30pm. So, Franz and I visited the 11th Century Capilla del Cipres, one of the oldest surviving buildings on the Camino. Simultaneously we received wisdom, and decided not to rough it, but to book into the Albergue Alboroque (across the road from the Monastery Albergue) who's welcome was genuinely warm. We were told to just go up and select our beds and then come down and pay. A small bedroom of some six beds we cherry picked the best and set out our packs etc. We ate at the restaurant with two very nice Australians and over some Galician food we put the world to rights. Franz and I went to mass at 7.30pm and then ate at the neighbouring restaurant where the internal issues of Catalan were being played out on the telly, and with an amazing multi-lingual German I enjoyed the translation. Bed and lights out followed a brief conversation with my beautiful Emma. Another day closer to being together again.En savoir plus

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  • Bill RonanCamino de SantiagoVoyageur

    Sarria and the last day with Franz

    4 octobre 2017, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Today Franz and I walked our last day together. Setting out from Samos in usual good spirits (in the dark) we passed through the small hamlets of Foxos; Teiguin; and then selected the choice of going through Calvor (to avoid walking along the road to Sarria) today would be our last day together. Franz would meet his wife in Sarria and together they would finish the Camino. Stopping at Sarria for one last cafe con leche (coffee with milk) together at the Hotel Alfonso IX where I guess Franz and his wife will enjoy slightly better hospitality than at an Albergue (although as Franz told me "no swimming pool !" Well Franz if we ever meet again, my Albergue de Barbadelo has one here!!
    Sarria holds the record for the most Albergues in one town. As the last city before the minimum 100km point set by the Catholic church to be eligible to receive the Compostela. But it didn't inspire me to stop, after yesterday's disappointment I wanted something more rural. So...I find myself in Barbadelo (with a pool). Barbadelo, small as it is, once housed a monastery on 874. The Albergue de Barbadelo is new and well equipped (oh did I say it's got a pool 😎). Don't know what I'll have for dinner tonight, and tomorrow is a slightly longer walk to Portomarin tomorrow (21km). And, I hope wearing my boots loose will get me there without pain, if not there's always my sandals to the rescue.
    As one friendship parts, tonight is for contemplation reflection and being alone. X    En savoir plus

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  • Bill RonanCamino de SantiagoVoyageur

    Portomarin - Climbing into a dammed town

    5 octobre 2017, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    A pleasant day of walking today. Setting out at 7.15 this morning into the mist and drizzle not seen before. Sustained with coffee and a pano chocolate my day begins. The head torch was an essential item again, illuminating where the transiting cows had passed for milking earlier. At one point I lost the yellow arrows and camino signs, and was noisily alerted that I had gone wrong by (on first impressions) fierce dogs. The ones all pilgrims are told of and, few have ever really encountered. These two barked in unison to tell me I had gone wrong and to tell be to go back and retrace my steps. To go back and find the 'yellow arrows'. And they were right, some seventy five metres back was the junction and I re-found my way. You might enquire how I could be so sure these intelligent dogs were giving me directions? Well in the silence of morning and with previous pilgrims ahead of me, these fine beasts had been undisturbed and were therefore not required to offer advice. But, as soon as needed they sprung into GPS mode and vocalised their advice.
    Portomarin holds the distinction of being the newest oldest town along the Camino. Portomarin of old was settled in the valley below. Portomarin today is essentially newly constructed, with some buildings (and the church) having been relocated stone by stone. Inspection of the fortress Iglesia de San Juan indicates that the stones were numbered to prevent head scratching later. Or was this an early version of Lego? The Iglesia de San Juan is the largest single nave Romanesque church in Galicia.
    The Rio Mino was dammed in 1956, forming the Embalse de Belasar which sits beneath the bridge.
    Portomarin gets its name from 'Porto' or river crossing, and 'marin', a reference to the Sanctuary of St. Marina that was located here in the Middle Ages. It enjoyed its peak of prosperity in the 15th and 16th centuries when several of the Catholic Monarchs slept here. The nearby capital of Lugo, also a Roman settlement, grew at a faster pace and Portomarin was quickly forgotten. As recently as 1919 the town was still not connected by a single road that could accommodate wheeled traffic. That has changed, and the prosperity of the town can now be attributed to the reservoir and the Camino.
    Having just eaten at the restaurant Perez, I can say this was on of my favourite meals. While chips or fries are a core part of the 'Pilgrims Menu' the braised veal was delicious. I can go to mass to tonight fed, and refreshed. X    En savoir plus

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  • Bill RonanCamino de SantiagoVoyageur

    Palace of the King

    6 octobre 2017, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Here I am entrenched and settled in Palais de Rei, and it's small mercy I can't find anything to complain about. Unless you count sore feet, tired legs, and missing the important people / person in my life. The walking covered about 23km today, and passed quickly. Out the door in the dark at 7.15am and following a small procession (or as I described it; a mass exodus) Two stops for essential refreshments and feet rests saw me arrive in Palais de Rei at 1.45pm and, as has been my habit, I selected a small Albergue on the way out of town (along the Camino route). Tonight has me in Casina di Marcello and only 14 beds. Tonight I will participate in a 'shared meal'. Only those who are sleeping will have the host Marcello delivering his famous Italian style family dinner (€10).
    Palais de Rei, Palace of the King, is owed to the last Visigothic king to rule Spain. Witiza had a brief rein, from 700-709, and he was only 14 when he was anointed. The family ruled all of the Iberian peninsula from Toledo and it wasn't until 701 that Witiza came to Galicia, likely to Tui; his migration was prompted by both a Byzantine invasion and the spread of the plague from Constantinople (no no not all those pilgrims spreading their germs!). Witiza's reign was short lived but his namesake village here on the Camino remains. For the record (and accuracy) he was, in fact, a co-ruler with his father...but 'Palace of the Half King' lacks a certain attraction.
    Well having showered, laundered, it is time for a snooze before dinner. With about seventy kilometres to go, there's a notable increase of the 'tourist pilgrim'. Minibuses and coaches "dump" tourists (minus rucksacks and walking boots) onto the Camino, sello's (stamps) are collected in "pristine" credential's and off they go towards Santiago, dust free and absent of any ache except the derrière from sitting too long on their arses!!
    I firmly hold the view that everyone's Camino is unique to themselves. Some carry their packs, others have it transported ahead, but with 'day sacks' they walk the stages. Todays bus locusts have annoyed me. They are fakes and they did not deserve (or receive from me) the curtesy of the shared greeting Buen Camino. I passed them today with contempt.
    Tomorrow is another day, and the Camino de Santiago is coming to its beautiful conclusion. Emotions are subdued and people are speaking in terms of the "end", but surely it's only the beginning. "When you go through inner obstacles, you are more YOU than who you started to be. YOU are more than you remember being." "The pilgrim abandons themselves to the breadth of the greater life that leads them beyond the farthest horizons, to an aim which is already present with them, though yet hidden from their sight."    En savoir plus

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  • Bill RonanCamino de SantiagoVoyageur

    Ribadiso de Carretera

    7 octobre 2017, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Tonight I have climbed out of Rabadiso to the Albergue da Carretera.

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  • Bill RonanCamino de SantiagoVoyageur

    O Pedrouzo (Arca do Pino)

    8 octobre 2017, Espagne ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    So today was my penultimate day of walking. I covered a simple and relatively short twenty one kilometres today. Not a particularly early start (although the room lights went on at 6am and following a chorus of annoyance went straight off again) I emerged from my bed at 7.15!!! A veritable lie-in. Breakfast of toast, marmalade, coffee, and orange juice, this pilgrim was ready for the road. The small group of pilgrims whom had loosely walked together yesterday were seeking solitary space today. I was very happy as I wanted to be alone too today. Always passing people (or being passed by others) with a smile and Buen Camino, I was very happy in my own pace and space. I arrived in O Pedrouzo at about 2.30 and was surprised to be the first pilgrim at the Albergue R.E.M. A modern Albergue with lights and power points at every bed - a luxury on the Camino. Tomorrow (all things going well and no issues) I should arrive at Santiago, and see for the first time why I started this journey last September. The Camino between O Pedrouzo and Santiago is a mixture of rural and urban settings, with some forests to give pilgrims a little shelter. The daily ascents and descents continue to the end with a reported gain/loss of +308 / -339, a not insignificant amount.
    But it will all be worth it to see the Cathedral spires, to receive my Compostela certificate, and to see the women I love. X    En savoir plus

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  • Bill RonanCamino de SantiagoVoyageur

    Welcome to Santiago

    11 octobre 2017, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Today (9th October, 2017) I walked the final 22km into the beautiful City of Santiago de Compostela. With tired feet and the heat of the day, the first sight of the magnificent Cathedral did not come quickly. From the Monte del Gozo (Mount Joy) where once the first glimpse of the Cathedral spires was seen by pilgrims, this early view is now obscured by trees. Monte del Gozo while being some 5km out from Santiago (and more like 7km to the Cathedral) is a large gathering place for pilgrims, who flock to the over-sized monument commemorating the pilgrimage that Pope John Paul II made here in 1993.
    The last few kilometres were slow and at times laboured, both from delaying the inevitable conclusion of my 790km walk from St Jean Pied de Port, and reflecting on how I might/should/ would feel when I arrived. Standing in front of the Cathedral for the first time was both spectacular and emotional. Stepping on to the last 'shell' of the Camino de Santiago (km zero) and removing my backpack was surreal and the sense of relief and loss of the weight must of hurt (because I had tears running down my face). Recovering my composure I watched pilgrims arriving much like me (fully loaded, sweating, and emotional to be in Santiago). Pilgrims were laughing, hugging, and sensing the significance of what we had achieved. Now it is time to get checked into my last Albergue, aptly named (and chosen for this reason) Albergue The Last Stamp (and this would be the last stamp / sello in my Credential before visiting the Pilgrims Office tomorrow and receiving my 'official Compostela'.
    "The pilgrim abandons himself to the breadth of the greater life that leads him beyond the farthest horizons, to an aim which is already present within him, though yet hidden from his sight."    En savoir plus

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  • Bill RonanCamino de SantiagoVoyageur

    Santiago de Compostela

    11 octobre 2017, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    No relaxing now...up early and out of the door. It's a cold morning (a brief relief from the heat ahead - unusually hot here at present) but there are important matters to attend to. A short walk to the Official Pilgrims Office, and at 8am already there is a queue. Pilgrims in a range of attire, carrying rucksacks having just walked into the City, and those in casual clothing having arrived the day before. All smiling, talking, questioning "when did you arrive; what route did you take; did you really carry all your worldly possessions with you?"
    We are all here for one reason, the get the official Compostela for completing the Camino. From religious, spiritual, or for sporting reason. Whether done on foot, bike, or donkey (yes it has been done) all (who wish to receive the Compostela) go through this ceremony. Wait over, I am interviewed and questioned on my Camino, my credential(s) are examined, and then the Compostela is written and signed (it's all in Latin), handed to me and...that's it!
    No longer a peregrino; pilgrim; or walking the Camino, I am an inquisitive tourist seeking to see and learn more about St James, and explore the history of this City. I might even climb on the roof of the Cathedral, have a drink in the Parador hotel (once a Catholic hospital, now the finest hotel in the City and adjacent to the Cathedral) and keep walking, walking and maybe do some more walking. No putting up my feet just yet.    En savoir plus

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  • Fin du voyage
    11 octobre 2017