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- Day 41
- Tuesday, June 4, 2024
- ☀️ 28 °C
- Altitude: 692 m
PortugalRibeiro do Lebução41°45’51” N 7°12’37” W
A highly recommended Aire

We decided to return to civilisation and pay for an aire for a change, seeing as so far we’ve only stayed at one place that we had to pay for before, it didn’t feel too frivolous. The aire is listed on the Park4night app and has across the board amazing reviews. Not only is it very great value but the owners are apparently sweet lovely people. We arrived tired after a long hot day of driving through countryside that was typically very beautiful. Through several villages that we weren’t sure we’d even fit through but we did...just. At one point in the middle of nowhere we had to stop as a dog was laying in the middle of the road nursing her young pups. She looked surprised to see a vehicle, it’s so remote here. Anyone who knows me will know that I wanted to get out and play with them and maybe even take them home, but of course I didn’t.
Anyway... we arrived at the aire and were immediately greeted by Fatima, the Portuguese lady who owned the place. She didn’t speak any English so luckily there was one van staying owned by an English man called Alan and his Dutch husband who came over with their gorgeous white shepherd dog and helped explain everything.
There were toilets, showers and a Pool, which looked very inviting to us at this moment as it was so hot. Bliss immediately made friends with the white shepherd and after a little play settled down in the shade under the outdoor washing up area. Fatima offered us a free drink of anything we wanted so of course we chose a red wine. It was unlike any red wine I’ve ever had, it tasted more like a very sweet cherry liqueur, lovely, and it immediately went straight to my head as I hadn’t eaten anything since yesterday. We wasted no time and took turns going in the pool as one of us had to bliss-sit to make sure she didn’t get in too! After my swim I enjoyed an extra long warm shower, which was amazing but oh boy do I miss my bath!
We went back to the van,it was so hot outside and hadn’t parked very well so we moved to a shadier spot which made all the difference, only downside to this place was the millions of flies that were so annoying and so persistent. We spent the rest of the evening trying to stay cool whilst relaxing outside and watching Bliss with her new boyfriend “Igor” playing together sweetly. She misses her 4pawed friends at home too, and Igor is a particularly gentle sweet natured doggie who was clearly head over paw pads with Bliss.Read more
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- Day 42
- Wednesday, June 5, 2024
- ☁️ 23 °C
- Altitude: 1,209 m
SpainTruchillas42°13’50” N 6°28’37” W
Hot wheels!

I awoke early and sat outside in the morning sun drinking my first coffee of the day whilst listening to the chirps of the birds and the local cockerel announcing his presence to the hens. Fatima ( the Portuguese host) appeared and presented me with an absolutely massive freshly baked loaf of bread, still hot from the oven and smelling perfectly divine. 🍞
We could only stay one night at Fatima’s welcoming little camping aire, as she only took cash and we didn’t have enough euros with us for another night. The nearest ATM was over 20 miles away. All this… wine, bread, swimming pool, showers, unlimited electric and water, plus other facilities we didn’t even use, all that for 17 euros ( about £14) I cringe to think what that would cost us in the UK?
I think we were ready to leave though tbh as the flies were already a real nuisance, and it was set to get even hotter today. As a Siberian, Bliss doesn’t like the heat much and where possible we like her to be able to cool herself off in water when she needs to, which she can’t do here. So after saying a sad goodbye to her gorgeous boyfriend Igor we set off.
The place we were heading for, high up in the mountains had a stream, sheltered picnic tables and hopefully would be cooler with no flies, fingers crossed.
It was a lovely drive, most of the way was through small tree lined roads with lots of shade and a few small villages which we always find fascinating due to their ancient appearance, and also worrisome that we’ll become wedged between buildings as the narrow streets are so ridiculously tight at times.
Then we started the ascent, the road became very rough, the vibrations making out teeth chatter. The climb was very long and steep so poor Ivy was getting quite a workout, and my vertigo was kicking in every time I looked down at the enormous views all around us. This is serious exposure therapy for my fear of heights!!
We climbed up and up through beautiful scenery towards the mountain pass with flowering Heather and Gorse covering the slopes. The vivid splashes of vibrant yellow and purple adding to the beauty. The sweet smell of the tiny flowers carried to us on the breeze was strong and heady in the heat of the day. We stopped at the peak to allow Ivy to cool down a bit and take in the view before descending on down to our planned wild stop for the night.
The road started to descend, we were not all that far from our stop but because of the state of the road I had to keep it slow so Ivy wasn’t shaken to bits by all the potholes. It was very steep so I couldn’t rely solely on the gears to keep us slow enough to protect Ivy from damage. I was having to brake more than I was happy with to maintain a safe speed. We started to smell a hot burning rubber smell so pulled over to have a look at Ivy’s wheels. They were red hot! A result no doubt of all the braking and vibrations. Darren threw a cup of water over them and a cloud of steam came off them. We really can’t afford the risk of letting them get this hot again! We waited a good while for her to cool down and then proceeded to our park up which wasn’t very far.
I was so happy to be there, my nerves again shattered from what was quite extreme driving.
We got out and Bliss jumped straight into the lovely cool water of the stream that was running down from the mountain. I love mountains... but damn they can be scary!! Just imagine what it must be like up here in winter? I really don’t ever want to find out 😜
There were nice slate covered picnic benches with pagodas over them set beside the stream, protruding slate rocks, heather and all sorts of wild flowers. I recognised a favourite of mine Thrift.
I was feeling quite anxious about the descent from here in the morning after how hot Ivy’s wheels got in such a short distance, but Darren did his best to reassure me that we would be fine. We’ll just keep monitoring her wheels on the way back down and stop if we need to, to allow her to cool off. Sounds like a plan, but I am still anxious about the brakes failing. Can’t help it!!
It was very late by the time we went to sleep so I slept like a log.Read more
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- Day 44
- Friday, June 7, 2024
- ☁️ 28 °C
- Altitude: 864 m
SpainPáramo del Sil42°49’42” N 6°27’44” W
Remote expanses of wilderness

Today has been another strenuous day for Ivy but she refuses to let us down.🤞 We have driven for hours up and down small mountain roads and hardly seen any other signs of life. No villages, cars or people for miles and miles. Just rough and rugged passage through beautiful mountain terrain stretching from horizon to opposite horizon. It’s quite intimidating to be alone in such a huge expanse of wilderness. We could see snow on some of the peaks even though it was so hot where we were. We are being careful now that Ivy’s brakes aren’t getting too hot on the sometimes long steep descents, we check regularly and stop to allow them to cool off before we continue. Sometimes we’ll see a sign for a “Mirador” which must be the term for viewpoint in Spanish, so we’ll often stop to see. More often than not there’ll be some kind of arty installation which seems at odds with the otherwise untouched nature of a place. I found it reassuring to see at least some indication of human existence after such extended periods of seemingly apocalyptic isolation.
We are heading to a place that has been reported to be peaceful and safe with cherry trees in abundance, we hoped to pick a few but alas when we arrive they aren’t ripe yet. It is as promised a lovely peaceful place to spend the night and Bliss is happy as she has a stream to paddle in a her own little patch of grass to snooze on next to Ivy.Read more
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- Day 45
- Saturday, June 8, 2024
- 🌫 15 °C
- Altitude: 481 m
SpainLa Plaza43°9’34” N 6°6’6” W
Severe thunderstorms predicted.

With severe thunderstorms predicted for today and tomorrow indicating “Danger to life”! we decided that it would be best to find a nice safe aire to sit it out. Driving around mountains is probably not the best place to be in a thunderstorm. We found one on Park4night that looked nice and safe and headed there. On the way the drive was very interesting, still in beautiful mountains but not quite so remote as before. About 10km from our destination we found ourselves driving through the most stunning gorge, high cliffs perhaps 400ft high either side of the road that followed the river. It’s so hard to describe how dramatic the huge sheer cliffs were that we drove through the centre of. If you’ve ever been through cheddar gorge in the uk just times that by 100 and then double it. It was immense and went on and on. We arrived at the park up and settled down for a rest, feeling quite exhausted from all the excitement of the last few days and secretly hoping for a spectacular thunderstorm from our safe vantage point… that disappointingly never happened in the end. A few distant rumbles and that was it.Read more
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- Day 46
- Sunday, June 9, 2024
- 🌫 12 °C
- Altitude: 478 m
SpainLa Plaza43°9’34” N 6°6’5” W
Day of laziness.

The weather although not stormy isn’t very good. Rain predicted for today so we decided not to move. With the mountains shrouded in cloud and mist there’d be little to see, and whilst I hate the feeling of driving next to sheer cliffs I do at least prefer to see where they are!
We were feeling like we needed a little bit of rest before we get back on the road so the rain gave us the excuse we needed to stay put.
After a short walk into the nearby town we spent the day being very lazy so not much to report for today. 😴Read more
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- Day 46
- Sunday, June 9, 2024
- ☁️ 15 °C
- Altitude: 231 m
SpainPriesca43°15’3” N 5°11’60” W
Teddy bears picnic.

Time to get back out there. Feeling rested and ready to go we head off. Straight away it’s an onslaught of amazing scenery. We drove for about an hour surrounded by dramatic gorges before the road started to climb up, the further up we went the thicker the foggy mist became. We were driving through the clouds! A bit nerve wracking to say the least but eventually we descended, the mist evaporated and we found ourselves in beautiful lush green countryside. We thought it was time we went for a bit of a walk so we parked up and started walking down a steep path into some woods towards a notable waterfall here. But then I remembered that we had been told that there were brown bears in the area! I got a bit freaked out ( much to Darren’s amusement) and decided that I didn’t want to walk in the woods after all. So we went back to Ivy with me feeling like a right big baby being scared of bears 🐻 well they eat people don’t they? Have you seen the Twix advert? I don’t want to be anyone’s picnic if today was the day they decided to have one 😂
We found a place to park for the night and had a nice safe walk in the village, no bears, just some territorial local dogs.Read more
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- Day 47
- Monday, June 10, 2024
- ⛅ 17 °C
- Altitude: 349 m
SpainObeso43°15’5” N 4°25’37” W
Happy birthday to me!

It’s my birthday and I just can’t believe I am here, having this amazing adventure!
I received lots of lovely messages from friends and family. I miss you all. ❤️
We spent most of the day just driving through endless stunning scenery. There’s so much beauty it’s hard to describe, and I’m mindful not to allow my senses to become so accustomed to it that I stop appreciating it’s awe, so I give myself a virtual prod now and again to remind myself to soak it up.
A good while was spent trying to find a shop that would supply the birthday essentials...steak and wine! 😂 Not as easy as you might imagine here.
We eventually found one and stocked up our empty fridge with goodies. We then went to a nice quiet place with yet another incredible view to relax for the night with a fridge bursting with food and drinks. Strangely though I wasn’t even hungry at all, so after all the effort of hunter gathering Darren got away with it... 😂 he didn’t even have to cook! I did however accept the offer of a back rub! I’m not a total idiot! 😜Read more
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- Day 48
- Tuesday, June 11, 2024
- ☁️ 16 °C
- Altitude: 662 m
SpainQuintanilla-Escalada42°48’1” N 3°46’4” W
Birthday Boxing Day!

Yes it’s a real thing! Birthday Boxing Day is a tradition that I started perhaps some 30 years ago and that I believe in wholeheartedly, as well as Birthday Eve and if I’m lucky even a birthday eve…eve. 😁 Every girl should make the most of every birthday like I do! So coffee is served in bed and my wishes are Darren’s commands. 😉. If asked he might refer to it as Cows week?… but it all means the same thing really 😂
Beautiful views this morning from my bedroom and when I finally got up to sit outside at the picnic bench with my second coffee I felt that I was being watched. As I looked around I spied up on the hill above two loose dogs staring down at me. A little dog and a larger German shepherd type of dog just standing above looking down on me 👀. Then… knowing full well I was watching on, they started getting jiggey with each other🫣 so I politely looked away and we got ready to leave. 😂
We spent a good few hours driving today through more hills, mountains and gorges until we found a secluded spot at the bottom of a particularly large gorge. It had the vibe of an old western movie set in monument valley. We discovered a nice path that ran along the river to go for a walk and then back through an old village. It was a very interesting setting and like most places we’ve visited quite deserted. We had quiet peaceful night here drifting off to sleep to the sound of the river waters tumbling over a rocky weir .Read more
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- Day 49
- Wednesday, June 12, 2024
- ☁️ 14 °C
- Altitude: 924 m
SpainFuente de Santiago42°57’12” N 3°0’12” W
Wot no crocs? 🫢

Woke up refreshed and excited to go to another place that was reportedly a must see hidden gem. Bliss was chilling outside the side door as is the norm in the morning after her breakfast, when a stray dog came to say hello. She was very happy to see him and tried to engage him in a play session but he stuck his nose in the air and strolled off uninterested, much to her disappointment.
We drove quite a short distance to the “secret oasis” we were going to see. When we arrived Darren asked me to get him his bathing stuff together while he waited with Bliss, so I gathered together what we needed and we headed off.
A short 10 minute walk took us up a narrow path meandering beside a fast flowing stream of crystal clear ice blue water. The path was lined by swathes of honeysuckle and wild mint. The unexpected aromatherapy was so calming… lovely.
We reached a clearing that opened up to a large pool of crystal clear water, which was our destination. A spring emanating from an underground cave at the bottom of a limestone cliff. It must have been emerging from the ground at quite a rate to enable such a fast flowing stream that we’d followed up here.
Bliss wasted no time in leaping into the cool waters, as is her usual reaction to water. Darren was quite keen to get in for a swim and freshen up too, especially in such an idyllic location. So he started to get ready… but when he searched his rucksack for the crocs he needed to wear because the floor of the pool was covered with sharp rocks they weren’t there. He turned to me and said “Where’s my crocs? I’m sure when I asked you to pack them you said you had?”. “Well,” I replied all stroppy and indignant like. “I don’t remember you saying that! I’m sure you didn’t mention anything about crocs. I’m not your mum”. 😂 I really had no recollection whatsoever of that conversation!! And I wasn’t going to be gaslighted into believing I had!
So Darren didn’t get his dip in the ice water, and tbh I was probably as disappointed as he was, as I was quite keen to see him screaming like a girl as he took the plunge because it really was very cold water. 😜
We still enjoyed the beauty and scent of the place though and decided it wasn’t worth falling out over, even though we both believed with 100% conviction that we were right.
When we got back to Ivy we continued on our way, after a while of Darren being busy on his phone he looked up and announced “Ah!!! I knew it!” 🧐
He’d been investigating the onboard camera footage and had video evidence that he had specifically asked for his crocs and I had even answered him “crocs? yes” I’ll get them”
So I definitely think dementia has started to set in and I had to apologise for my earlier strop. 😱. Something I just hate having to do because it induces high levels of smugness from Darren that’ll last for hours while he teases me about it. 🫣
We continued driving and after a few hours we came to a place that had a sign suggesting a natural wonder to visit, so intrigued to find out what it was we went to investigate. Driving through some big gates and over a cattle grill we discovered horses with foals roaming around a vast open area. It reminded us a lot of the New Forest national park at home. We continued on along the very potholey dirt track through some woods at a snails pace until we reached a car park. Time for a bit of a hike because Bliss and indeed us need more exercise than we’ve been managing to date.
Following a route through the forest we walked up and up and up on our quest to see the ‘natural wonder’ that we were now so invested in reaching. Still no idea what it would be. At the point of almost giving up as we were pooped we came upon an immense rocky escarpment with a look out point. The views from it were vast and the cliff was so high (I couldn’t tell you how high) but it was a sheer drop and so long, it just went on for miles. We hadn’t a clue that the new foresty area we’d been in for hours was actually atop an enormous plateau. Here we saw a huge eagle, the biggest one we’ve seen so far. We’ve seen quite a lot since being here because we’ve spent so much of our time hanging around the mountains, which is of course where they like to be.
On returning to Ivy we had to decide where to stay tonight, here doesn’t feel right somehow. So we decided to move a bit down the road. This second place was ok but then we discovered there was no phone signal. So after studying the route for the morning drive it appears that we have no option but to go down the only road taking us to the bottom of the escarpment, with many switchbacks to navigate. Rather than endure the worry and not sleep well tonight thinking about it I decided I would rather get it out of the way tonight and find somewhere in the lowlands below. It seemed the best option so we did it, it was predictably scary and I didn’t like it, but we survived the switchbacks and we slept safe and calm in a not so picturesque parking lot on the edge of a small village. 😴Read more
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- Day 50
- Thursday, June 13, 2024
- ☁️ 21 °C
- Altitude: 550 m
SpainPuerto Otsondo43°14’0” N 1°29’55” W
Making our way back into France

We planned to cross the border today back into France so are expecting a long interesting drive to get there. Not disappointed, the drive was again, as we’re learning to expect absolutely exhilarating. It’s becoming more difficult to imagine not being surrounded by huge mountains so we have to remind ourselves to make the most of each spectacular view as this is not forever, we do have to leave in a few weeks.
There was a notable change in the villages and farms passed along the way, whereby all of them were painted in exactly the same whitewashed walls with burgundy doors and shutters theme. Obviously there must be some strict planning codes in this region ensuring the areas traditions remain. It looks great as a visitor, it really does stand out, but tbh I’m really unsure how I feel about the state controlling people’s freedom of expression to such a degree.
We made it almost to the border of Spain into France, just 10km to go. When we randomly came across a picnic aire that looked really nice, so decided to take a look. It was perfect for a night and after a long day driving we decided to stay. There were lovely big picnic benches and tables made of huge pieces of stone beneath some tall trees. I found a tiny birds nest on the ground beneath the trees, it was fascinating to look at how intricate the building of it was. Lots of different layers of different materials were all woven skilfully together, dry grasses, moss, lichen, feathers and animal hair all created a perfectly comfortable nest for her eggs. I get so much pleasure from seeing things like this. 😍
Bliss was in need of a stretch and some fresh air so we went for a walk that took us up a very steep hill within a field. Much steeper than we had anticipated. Bliss skipped and hopped up it while Darren and I huffed and puffed our way up behind her. Stopping regularly to catch our breath. We got to the top eventually and were rewarded for our efforts by a magnificent view and a herd of wild horses, some with foals. From our vantage point we could see the Atlantic ocean and the Bay of Biscay in the far west, the foothills of the Pyrenees rising gradually to our position atop this juvenile little mountain, and behind to the East more ever increasing layers of higher still mountains fading into the far distance.
Going back down the hill was quite treacherous because it was so steep but we made it down without injury. We came upon the scattered bones of what I believe must have been a horse. Bliss wanting to take home one of its ribs as her trophy 🏆
We were alone in the picnic area as we went to sleep enjoying the sounds of the nighttime forest.Read more
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- Day 51
- Friday, June 14, 2024
- ⛅ 25 °C
- Altitude: 395 m
FranceLourdios-Ichère43°3’1” N 0°40’32” W
Lizards and bunting

We were woken by a coach load of elderly hikers all excitedly getting ready for their adventures, some were carrying big rucksacks. They made us feel very lazy and unfit but inspired that we could improve our health and actually be stronger as we get older too if we make the effort to exercise more. Maybe we’ll start tomorrow though 😂
After one last wander around the pretty little picnic area and a couple of coffees we set off.
The border crossing was preceded by not one, but three fuel stations one after another, reminding us that cheap fuel was a Spanish luxury we’d have to forego for now.
After a short while we were in France, hoping to find a Boulangerie and patisserie, nobody makes bread and cakes like the French. We drove through beautiful French villages in lush green countryside within the foothills of mountains, with forests that gave some relief from the heat of the day. The buildings all retained their enforced colour schemes across borders. There are lots of cyclists on all the roads right now that are probably in training for the Tour de France which is very soon. The level of fitness that they have to attain is staggering because these mountains are brutal, it’s surprising just how many extraordinarily fit people there are.
We finally reach a remote mountain village where we plan to stay, parking just in front of a large pergola that has a book exchange inside, as well as a toilet, albeit a crouch style one. Suffice to say we didn’t choose to use it as Ivy is equipped with a far more luxurious throne.
I think the village knew in advance of Bliss’s arrival as they’d got out the bunting. Bliss was happy to have a nice cool tiled floor to lie on inside the pergola and access to a river that was supplied by ice cold mountain water with that glacial blue tint to it. Unfortunately there was a lot of flies here which were irritating but in this heat they are everywhere, especially when there’s any kind of livestock. We could see from our home for the night sheep, horses and llama. On the walls of the pergola there were many small lizards who scurried away at high speed if you went anywhere near them, but there was one little guy that was very brave and actually seemed a little intrigued by us. It kept coming back and looking at us and even stayed long enough to get a photo of him. He became our pet lizard ( I named him Eddie) whilst we were there as he really seemed to quite like us and was very very cute🦎Read more
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- Day 52
- Saturday, June 15, 2024
- ☀️ 15 °C
- Altitude: 992 m
FranceGèdre42°47’19” N 0°1’11” E
Oh my Lourde(s) Why did we come here?!

We decided against our best instincts to go to Lourdes to see the sanctuary. We arrived in a city that was chaotically busy, people and traffic everywhere. Trying to find our way through the madness to find somewhere to park was a nightmare but after going through the busy high street full of people on foot in the middle of the road who seemed oblivious of the fact that a van was right behind them we eventually found a place behind a shabby hotel where we could leave Ivy. It seemed safer than the pay to park areas ( which were extortionately priced anyway) so we locked her up, put her alarms on and walked towards the sanctuary. As we neared the river way there was the overpowering noise of hundreds of motorcycles revving their engines and beeping their horns as they rode through the town. On and on it went as they kept coming, the noise and the smell of burning fuel and rubber in the air. There must have been some kind of motorcycle event going on. Bliss didn’t seem to be bothered by it ( we were though) so we carried on through the town towards the sanctuary. There were lots of nuns and monks walking around the town, and the shops were full of Virgin Mary ornaments Christ on the cross and bottles for holy water and all kinds of other souvenirs. Honestly… “What a load of old tat!”
We pushed on through the crowds to get to the sanctuary and finally arrived at some large open gates into a garden area. As we tried to walk through the gates we were called back by a security man who said we could not take a dog in so that was that! Enough was enough.
We walked back to Ivy as fast as we could and got the hell out of there! How could somewhere that was supposed to be heavenly be so much like hell?!!
The lack of photos on this post is the result of us really not enjoying the experience.
We know we don’t like cities and busy peopley places so we should have known better. Lesson learnt...again!… yet again.🙄
We drove the rest of the afternoon through some pretty epic mountain roads to get to a basic car park behind a hotel that would be home for tonight. We need to get up nice and early in the morning for the adventure we had planned for tomorrow. To make sure the experience was a nice quiet one without hordes of people a dawn start is the plan.Read more
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- Day 53
- Sunday, June 16, 2024
- ⛅ 16 °C
- Altitude: 1,372 m
FranceGavarnie42°44’8” N 0°0’43” W
Our most epic day (Part one)

Chapter one: Humbled by nature
We were up at the crack of dawn and on our way up the mountain road. We parked Ivy when we arrived and got together all the things we needed for a hike up the mountain. We were going to see the biggest waterfall in France ( one of the biggest in Europe) and because it is quite a tourist attraction and a Sunday we came early to experience it without too many people around us.
As with our dawn hike to Mont St Michel it was to pay off as we were completely alone for the first few hours due to our head start.
We started off through the first area where civilisation still reigned, there were shops cafes, hotels and restaurants, all still closed of course at this hour of the day. Then we met some lovely donkeys which were used for children to get a ride up to the waterfall. We passed a field of very pretty sheep and horses and then we were on a path that followed a fast flowing river with ice blue waters, water that had come all the way down from the glaciers feeding the waterfalls. We could already see the waterfalls in the distance but they were still several km’s away. But already it was impressive beyond belief. Like something your imagination might conjure up whist reading a Tolkien book.
Unfortunately we were not going to be able to get all the way up to the waterfalls and the snow still laying in its shadow because dogs aren’t allowed past the hotel that is located perhaps some 80% of the way there. I presume that is because of the wildlife that lives there, marmots for sure inhabit the place, but we didn’t see them and neither did Bliss.
The walk up starts fairly easy, but the last hour of walking is very steep so I’m so glad we came early before it got hot. Bliss was able to cool off in the river quite a few times on the journey so she was happy.
The closer we got the more spectacular it became as it revealed more and more smaller waterfalls all across the impenetrable mountain wall, and dozens of smaller ones on the way up the trail. But the one big one was simply immense even though it was still so far away from us. I was mesmerised by the way the water fell in a slow motion effect brought about by its sheer enormity.
The arduous climb seemed to go on and on and the track deteriorated as we got higher. I couldn’t believe that there was an actual hotel up here and kept saying to Darren are you sure that there’s really a hotel? How on earth do they get stuff up here? Then a small four wheel drive jeep with oversized chunky wheels came bouncing around up the rocky pathway… so that explained that mystery.Read more
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- Day 53
- Sunday, June 16, 2024
- ⛅ 14 °C
- Altitude: 1,564 m
FranceMur du Cirque42°42’15” N 0°0’29” W
Our most epic day (Part Two)

Chapter Two: Unspeakable beauty.
Finally we reached the hotel and the point where we could go no further, but the view opened up in all its glory. Still 2km away from the waterfall base but because of its size it seemed so close. The snow capped mountains rose high above feeding the waterfall higher than we could actually see. The upper ridge forms the Spanish-French border.
Darren took lots of pictures but honestly they just don’t capture the reality of this place. You have to be there to get a real perspective of the size, and even then it’s hard to take it all in. We stayed there for a couple of hours just looking at the natural wonders all around us.
Darren decided to phone home to show them how awesome it all is but nobody was answering. Then I reminded him that it was still early on a Sunday morning and nobody was going to be impressed with him calling them at this time!! He wasn’t going to give up though because he really wanted to share this moment with everyone. He was manically high on the whole experience. But he waited a little while before trying again. After speaking to a few bleary eyed people and sharing this magical place with them it started to get busier with tourists arriving and it was starting to get quite hot too which was strange because we were so close to the snow up here. We reluctantly agreed that it was time to leave, get down to somewhere Bliss could cool off in the water. We walked a short way down to a little side path that led to a fast running stream and a grassy rock covered bank where we had the picnic I had prepared the night before. Surrounded by the most beautiful scenery imaginable. With a bit of energy giving food in our bellies and Bliss cooled off in the stream we continued our way back down the mountain. There were lots of people on their way up so we were pleased that we had made the decision to go early in the morning before everyone else. I felt sorry for them as it was hot going down so going up in the heat would have been an unpleasant experience. We found a path on the other side of the river via a wooden bridge that took us away from the crowds of people on their way up and took it. It was a bit more difficult going but less busy. We were almost back to the area where the shops were when we saw two people walking along with backpacks and as we drew closer we realised that they each had a cat inside them! The cat’s didn’t look like they were having much fun to be honest. I’m sure they were lovely people who loved their cats but...really!!
We reached Ivy, tired, sore feet, hot and sweaty but so happy to have had the opportunity to see such a wonderful place together. We decided we would stay here the night and leave in the morning. Bliss had her dinner and took her place underneath Ivy in the shade. We didn’t hear a thing from her until we brought her in at bedtime. One tired happy husky. 😴
If ever you get the chance to come here, don’t hesitate for a moment!Read more
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- Day 54
- Monday, June 17, 2024
- ⛅ 26 °C
- Altitude: 337 m
FranceCastelbiague43°2’23” N 0°55’57” E
The Longest Day 🥱

After the excitement and exercise of yesterday we slept well and woke knowing we had lots to do today. We were out of water, food too and needed to get some washing done today, so we left fairly early. It was a beautiful clear blue sky as we took to the road back down the mountain, but before we knew it we were climbing back up another. On the way up we stopped to watch a helicopter 🚁 flying overhead with a large load hanging beneath it by a long rope. It was delivering something to one of the high peaks nearby. Amazing to watch, the skill of the pilot was obvious. The precision involved in picking up and dropping off his cargo was incredible as the wind was pretty strong. We carried on up until we reached the top of the pass and then parked up to have a look around. It was cold and windy at the pass through the high mountain but actually quite a hot day down in the valleys, so we decided to drive as far as possible today as Bliss doesn’t like the heat. We found a place on Park4night that has washing machines and headed for that as it was also at a supermarket so we could stock up the fridge too at the same time. It was quite a distance and meant going over three more mountain passes (called “cols” here) but needs must.
We came to a sign saying road closed which was the road we really wanted to take else it would mean a massive detour! After sitting for a while and seeing several other vehicles including a large A class motorhome go through and not come back we decided to ignore the road closed sign and do it anyway. We got up the road quite a way before we saw road workers. There was traffic coming from the other direction and the workers didn’t stop us (or them) so we squeezed through and carried on uphill. They had just laid fresh hot smelly tarmac! When we reached the top we pulled over and took a look at our wheels, we had a good half inch thick layer of tarmac stuck to them. Oops! 😬. Ivy’s bad ass tire tread left like an incriminating fingerprint at the scene of a crime!
There was another great view to look at and lots of cows chilling amongst us and the masochistic cyclists, motorcycles, campers, cars that also pulled over to savour the sights. Where there’s cows, there’s flies too of course so we soon decided to get going. I can hardly express how seriously annoying they can be, like they deliberately try to wind you up and know exactly how to do it.
A long day of driving and we eventually found the supermarket and the washing machines and as a bonus also a jet wash to give Ivy a good clean. Chores all done in a couple of hours and we still had to find somewhere to stay for the night. We tried one place that had water but no space for us to stay, so topped up and continued hunting. It was getting quite late now and the light was fading. The wildlife evening shift was coming out. On the way to the place that we ended up staying we saw the oh so cutest little baby fox 🦊 and then we saw some young deer who were startled in our headlights.
After the longest day we found a lovely quiet retreat by a small river, collapsed into bed and slept like the dead.Read more
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- Day 55
- Tuesday, June 18, 2024
- ☀️ 26 °C
- Altitude: 337 m
FranceCastelbiague43°2’23” N 0°55’57” E
Lovely quiet restful day

Woke at the crack of dawn to the sound of birdsong and Darren poking me in the ribs saying “Let’s go see if the deer are out in the field where we saw them yesterday.” So I dragged myself out of bed to go see, but oh dear… there were no deer! Back to bed for another couple of hours I think. 🤔
Shattered from the last few days of adventures I made the executive decision that we needed a rest day. Bliss seemed quite happy just chilling by the river so that’s what we did. The only thing that happened all day of note was when a middle aged couple turned up out of nowhere on pushbikes… and the lady proceeded to remove ALL her clothes right in front of us and go skinny dipping in the river! . Darren didn’t know where to look 👀 bless him. 😂 I just wanted to advise her that a bit of a trim might be an idea ✂️ 😜Read more
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- Day 56
- Wednesday, June 19, 2024
- ☁️ 20 °C
- Altitude: 582 m
FranceLassur42°46’7” N 1°44’37” E
Thunderstorms in the woods

After a slow start we head off in the direction of Andorra 🇦🇩 our satnav always set to avoid motorways and tolls has been by far the best decision of the trip, because that’s how you see the real place and stumble across so many unexpected curiosities. Thoroughly enjoyed the drive even though there wasn’t anything in particular to tell you about. It’s so pretty and awe inspiring everywhere here.
We find a lovely quiet spot sandwiched between a river and a train track, a grassy clearing surrounded by trees that will be home for the night. Darren went off for a walk and when he came back, on bended knee he presented me with a bunch of wild flowers 🌷 how romantic 🥰 ( The cynic in me thinking he’s either feeling guilty or after something obvs 😂) Turns out he was being genuinely soppy. Awww 🥰
It started getting cold and began raining so we closed Ivy up and got comfortable, it wasn’t long before we started hearing thunder and seeing flashes of lightning. Being inside Ivy when the weather is dark and stormy is so very cozy and I can’t think of anywhere I’d rather be.
The forecast for tomorrow is not looking very promising so I’m not sure if we’ll go over into Andorra or not. It’s all well and good being in the mountains with all their epic views, but not if it’s all shrouded in mist and gloom. We’ll see… watch this space.Read more
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- Day 57
- Thursday, June 20, 2024
- ☁️ 13 °C
- Altitude: 1,446 m
FranceL'Hospitalet-près-l'Andorre Railway Station42°35’20” N 1°47’59” E
A bit closer but not quite

After the last couple of days of not having much solar power our leisure batteries are quite low so we need to recharge. Just before the road starts to go up to Andorra there’s an aire that has electric hook up so we head there. We managed to get hooked up to the electricity but it was going to take quite a while to recharge. The weather was looking rubbish so rather than go today we decided to postpone our trip through Andorra until tomorrow. I had plenty of cleaning to do inside Ivy and wasn’t keen to drive in the adverse weather conditions. Once the cleaning chores were done it was nice to relax, listen to the rain on Ivy’s roof and just watch some soaps.Read more
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- Day 58
- Friday, June 21, 2024
- ☁️ 12 °C
- Altitude: 2,408 m
AndorraPort d’Envalira42°32’24” N 1°43’10” E
Andorra (New Country Day)

Leaving our park up and heading up steep and winding roads I am hoping we make it before the diesel runs out! We have left it as long as possible so we can take advantage of the really cheap fuel on offer in Andorra ⛽️
I’ve not been looking forward to going to Andorra if I’m honest as I’ve heard it’s a busy place and that’s proving to be true. We were expecting to have to show our passports at the border crossing but we were just waved through by the officials. We’re not actually stopping here but just driving through. Mainly so that Darren can collect a new flag sticker for Ivy! And just so we can say to anyone remotely interested…”Oh yes, Andorra… we’ve been there! “ 😜
The drive was interesting though, busy top brand shops, restaurants, hotels, ski resorts, and epic mountain tops surrounding the whole area. Once we reached the top and started the decent on the way out of Andorra we were looking out for signs to say we were in Spain 🇪🇸 again. A couple of hours later and our mini break in Andorra was over.Read more
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- Day 58
- Friday, June 21, 2024
- ☀️ 24 °C
- Altitude: 38 m
FranceCap de Cervera42°26’25” N 3°10’33” E
Three countries in one day

We start the decent on our way out of Andorra and into Spain, very steep decent at first so we did stop to check our brakes weren’t getting too hot. About an hour later we are still going downhill and our diesel tank is still on full. We can’t believe how long and how far you can keep driving downhill. We decide to head for the coast, it’s hot so we keep driving, making the most of Ivy’s air con whilst clocking up the miles and in the hope the coast will be cooler. We drive all day with a few stops for Bliss to stretch her legs and do her business. Today we have driven from France, through Andorra, into Spain, back into France and finally we settle on a coastal peninsula almost at the border of Spain again! Another very long but very interesting journey.
Towards the end the drive along the zigzagging coast through the coastal towns was busy with people sat along the streets outside of cafes and clubs, live music emitting from the bars and a jolly holidaying atmosphere. Hundreds of boats moored in the bays all along the coast.
Happy to drive away from the busy tourist area we find ourselves upon a cliff top peninsula with a great view of the Mediterranean Sea. As it got later it did become busier with other campers arriving to stay the night. We were lucky to have arrived when we did or we wouldn’t have had such a great space. We sat outside drinking coffee and watching hundreds of swifts feeding on the evening insects. As it grew dark we found the light from the seamark beacon flashing its warning to the boats, and the full Moon was a lovely reddy orange colour which we later found out that it was called a strawberry moon. It felt somehow homely being near the sea again. You can take the girl out of the island, but you can’t take the Island out of the girl ( or something like that 😜)Read more
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- Day 59
- Saturday, June 22, 2024
- 🌬 25 °C
- Altitude: Sea level
FranceLibron43°17’17” N 3°24’0” E
Mediterranean sunrise and sandy bay

Darren woke me up with a prod again at an unGodly hour to watch the sunrise. After cursing him just a little I managed to raise an eyelid, followed five minutes after by the other one. It was worth waking up for though, quite beautiful and full of promise.
After a couple of coffee’s we drove back down the wiggly winding road looking for a place where we could top up the water tank. Not too far away was a vineyard with a water tap, so we filled up and continued our journey back along the coast in search of a beach. Not too hopeful of getting a spot where we could park for the night close by we tried anyway and found a place down a tiny track. The kind of place only a local would know about. Right on the beach itself in a small bay tucked behind a caravan park. One of the very few places where we could take Bliss onto the beach. It was the perfect spot apart from the other people who were there, not loads of them, but enough. We would of course have preferred it if it were just us, but we made the best of it. Bliss was just so excited about being at the beach, we had to immediately go in the sea. I went in for a paddle with her and was surprised by how warm the water was. I would have liked it a few degrees warmer to entice me to swim if I’m being perfectly honest ,but it was a lot warmer than the waters surrounding the Isle of Wight at this time of year, and is way clearer and altogether cleaner looking and more inviting.
We spent the rest of the afternoon and evening relaxing, drinking some wine and lying on our bed looking out of the rear doors at the Mediterranean Sea. In the evening when all the people had gone home and there was just us and one other camper a bit further along, it was lovely just listening to the gentle waves coming in and watching bats darting around the sky as the sun went down. It reminded us a lot of when our kids were young and we used to take our battered old transit camper to Bembridge, which at that time you could park on the beach just like this. After the kids had gone off to sleep (eventually!) there’d just be us and the romantically rhythmic sounds of the waters lapping at the shore. So I reminisced and mourned for our passing youth a little while, reflecting on just how lucky we are to be reliving it again in our autumn years, still in love.Read more
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- Day 60
- Sunday, June 23, 2024
- 🌬 25 °C
- Altitude: 9 m
FranceLa Mède43°24’13” N 5°7’1” E
Unexpectedly pleasant.

We planned to get up early this morning and take advantage of having the beach to ourselves for a swim, but the sea felt pretty cold and we were too chicken to take the full plunge. I went for a knee deep paddle and called that it! Darren ventured in up to his navel but he also wimped out.
It wasn’t too long before people started arriving to spend the day, spreading their towels, buckets and spades and other beach essentials out. As it was a beautiful sunny Sunday we couldn’t really blame them for that. For us though it was time to get back on the road so while I prepared Ivy for the trip Darren took Bliss for one last dip in the lovely cool water. I was just about done with Ivy when Darren came back all flustered saying we’ve got to go now! Guess what she did? Bliss... in front of a beach full of people who might I add were not impressed decided to have her morning poo in the sea!!! In front of everyone, all staring at Darren disgusted like he’d done it!! He couldn’t pick it up obviously as it was in the water so he just did the walk of shame back to the van. Mortified 😂 Needless to say, we left, sharpish!
We drove further along the coast, passing lagoons with the surprise of seeing wild flamingos 🦩, long avenues of beech trees leading to towns and villages each with their own unique charm. We were hoping to park at a place Darren had found in a bay further along but when we got there the road down was closed. We parked up where we were and walked down to the bay to see if there was any other way down, but once we arrived we realised immediately we didn’t really like the feel of the place anyway. Whilst the tiny beach area was really nice, complete with a resident swan, there were loads of kids, life guards, parents and grandparents and it all felt unfriendly somehow. Like it was theirs alone and we weren’t welcome. Bliss certainly wasn’t allowed on the nice part of the beach, and tbh the thought of her repeating what she’d done earlier today here was simply horrifying.
There was another place not too far away that was quite a new parking area and it didn’t have any reviews on the app. We thought we’d try it anyway as it was getting late. On first inspection it seemed it was just a large gravel car park by a small marina, nothing special at all, but could be okay to sleep for the night. It’s funny how you arrive somewhere and sometimes you just know instantly it’s not right and sometimes you have to just sit for a while and soak up the essence of a place before you know if it’s worth staying or not. This place was not particularly pretty but it was quiet, felt peaceful and safe so we stayed. I’m glad we did, as it grew darker the sunset came down over the rocks on the far jetty, as the light faded one of the rocks looked like a huge bust of Jesus complete with a thorny crown in silhouette . Behind us, a few streets back was some kind of gas burning chimney flare that had flames coming out of the top of it every few minutes. That lit up the rocks and the boats that were moored in the marina in a lovely fireplace like orange glow. Bats started their evening antics, flying around the sky in front of us putting on a show of all their best moves. We were the only people there, it just felt so calm and safe. We laid on the couch together with the side doors open enjoying the show with a cool evening breeze and a complete lack of any pesky flies or mozzies. The park up turned out to be altogether much nicer than it had first appeared.
Once it was fully dark though we were ready for our bed so secured the doors and windows and settled down for a peaceful night’s sleep.Read more
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- Day 61
- Monday, June 24, 2024
- ☁️ 23 °C
- Altitude: 505 m
FranceLe Pont43°48’14” N 6°14’21” E
Turquoise lakes - Lavender fields

We left the marina heading inland a little. We needed to get a little further up the coast but wanted more countryside rather than busy towns and over populated tourism. We drove through miles of lovely countryside with sometimes lavender or sunflower fields offering contrast to the lush greenery. Until it changed again and we found ourselves on roads surrounded by huge rocky limestone cliffs. We then by chance drove along a road that was skirting a very large lake with the most beautiful turquoise water, there were though unfortunately lots of people and height barriers across all the parking places 🤬. So frustrating because we really wanted to stop and visit this location as it was quite special. We could see there was the opportunity to hire a canoe or pedlo and take it out on the water between the walls of the massive gorge. We would have definitely wanted to do that, but alas parking Ivy anywhere was simply not going to happen 😢.
We carried on around the lake taking the road up the side of the gorge until we came across a place that at last we were able to stop overlooking the lake, so we pulled in and turned off the ignition . As we arrived we immediately noticed a couple with a lovely white northern Inuit dog. We had a chat with the couple who were from Belgium but spoke very good English. The man was suitably impressed with Ivy ( describing her as his dream) so Darren gave him the full tour. The lady was quite taken with Bliss, while I was equally taken with her dog. A beautiful dog no doubt, but a bit aloof, whereas Bliss was her usual friendly self, wanting to play and frustratingly being ignored. ☺️
The view of the lake was stunning, we just wished we could have gone for a paddle boat ride with Bliss. Never mind, maybe we’ll come back one day in the future when it’s not so busy. Ivy’s maiden voyage is a whistle stop tour by design, where we’re to find out one way or another if this is the life for us. So we’re not spending anywhere near enough time in each area to truly appreciate all they have to offer. This is one of those places that clearly has a great deal on offer and deserves to be revisited properly.
It suddenly started to get overcast and then started raining so we retreated back into the sanctuary of Ivy. We continued on our way and settled at a village aire that we came across. We went for a quick walk around the village streets with Bliss when we arrived. There was a pigeon that was sitting on the side of the road on someone’s doorstep, that we didn’t see but unfortunately Bliss did! Before we had a chance to stop her she pounced and had the poor thing in her mouth. One shake and a moment later the poor thing was dead. 😢
If there’s one thing I would change about Bliss it’s her predatory nature, but she is a husky and unfortunately that’s just what they are evolved to do.
We went back to Ivy, parked in this somewhat unremarkable but functional parking area, settled in for the night and tried to figure out our where to next.Read more
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- Day 62
- Tuesday, June 25, 2024
- ☁️ 17 °C
- Altitude: 1,349 m
FranceLa Moulière43°45’20” N 6°45’42” E
Spooky coincidences?

I didn’t have a great nights sleep as I was woken by horrible stomach cramps...food poisoning! I think it was probably caused by handling Bliss’s raw chicken 🍗 and not washing my hands properly! Another lesson learned, again!
It was a slow start in the morning as I was feeling rubbish, my stomach was churning and cramping still. About midday I was finally ready to get going as it was too warm to just sit around all day. We head off and were soon driving around another large turquoise lake, I was taking it steady as I really wasn’t feeling good. All of a sudden Ivy’s satnav came up with a warning ⚠️ saying loud and clear “Slow down, accident ahead 150m.” Not a warning we’d ever received before. So I slowed Ivy right down and proceeded with caution, expecting to come across some kind of obstruction. There didn’t seem to be anything at all…. But then out of nowhere it happened!
Next thing I know, the car behind us overtook us at speed and swerved sharply inward as it passed Ivy’s bonnet. Once in front of us it slammed its brakes on! I in turn had to slam Ivy’s brakes on and swerve abruptly to the left in order to not hit this car which was now in front of me. We came to a stop just centimetres from a collision.
The car had strangely broken down and wouldn’t start now. After my heart recovered to a less rapid rhythm I reversed a little, pulled out and drove around it. We were right on a tight curve in the road and we needed to move so we weren’t causing an obstruction. We moved around the corner and parked up feeling a bit shaken by our near miss, and also a little spooked by the fact that Ivy had warned us to slow down for an accident ahead when there wasn’t one, but at the exact spot where she had said that there was we very nearly had an accident ourselves!! And would have for sure if it weren’t for that message. It was a bit of a strange coincidence at the very least and if I were more superstitious I would say someone from the spirit world was looking out for us… but I’m not so coincidence it has to be.
We sat for a while next to the turquoise water of the lake before continuing on our way. We arrived at the first park up that we had chosen but it was a tiny fenced area with a resident van already there. We squeezed Ivy in and got out with Bliss to have a look around, in the resident van was a very large and seemingly angry German shepherd that was barking ferociously at us. It was not a friendly welcome so we thought we’d try another spot further down the road, but that quickly turned into a quagmire of mud so we abandoned the idea of that particular spot too. As we left two large livestock guard dogs chased us off. Not going well this is it!
We got back on park4night and headed to the next spot not too far away. It was a windy, steep road that took us uphill.
We ended up settling at the top of a random dead end road in the end, that was near a treetop adventure park and winter ski slopes complete with chair lift. Quite high and much cooler which was a nice relief.
We discovered when we went for a walk that it was a pretty wooded, grassy place with lots of wild flowers, Darren picked another little posie of flowers and presented them to me romantically. We had to tread carefully as there were great big sink holes amongst the trees that we couldn’t see the bottom of, not that we dared to look too closely. Somewhat less romantically, Darren announced that he could easily get rid of me down one of those holes and no one would ever know or ever find me! 😂
Unsure of whether we’d be allowed to stay for the night we settled down, and thankfully we had a peaceful, quiet evening with no one but the owls for company.Read more
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- Day 63
- Wednesday, June 26, 2024
- ⛅ 25 °C
- Altitude: 63 m
MonacoSaint Charles Church43°44’34” N 7°25’41” E
Ivy enters the Monaco Grand Prix

We were up early expecting a long day of driving as we plan on an epic day making our way along the coast. To begin with we didn’t have any phone signal so we just drove in the rough direction of the coast. At first it seemed okay but then there were unexpected consequences! We found ourselves driving high up along the edge of a huge gorge and then through a small tunnel that had been carved out of the rock face, it didn’t feel like it would be big enough for us to pass but we squeezed through. Winding around the edge of the gorge on a somewhat narrow road was really not what either of us expected, but it was spectacular and although quite nerve wracking I do kinda think we might be getting a little used to these extraordinary roads now. After another long downhill drive the roads began to get busier in tune with the number of houses. We soon found ourselves on the long sweeping esplanade of Nice, very posh and very busy. The traffic was quite heavy, three lanes wide with traffic lights every hundred yards so I had to concentrate hard. I couldn’t really look at the views around me too much as driving took all of my attention but Darren was telling me all about the expensive cars, yachts, hotels and everything that he was seeing along the promenade. The wealth here is obvious though, everything and everyone was pristine. After passing by the beach side international airport we eventually left Nice behind.
We carried on and drove into Monaco which was a continuation of the opulence of Nice but on an even grander scale. I hadn’t realised before, but Monaco is its own country so Ivy will get to wear another flag today!
The way you drive into Monaco is simply crazy, more akin to entering a huge multi-storey carpark with a long sweeping tunnel. Really strange and like nothing I’ve ever experienced. We didn’t stop in Monaco, but we wouldn’t have been able to even if we wanted as there was nowhere at all for a car let alone a 7m long van. Actually we were very much out of place there, we didn’t see any other motorhomes at all, it seemed mainly populated with Ferrari’s, Porsche’s, Aston Martin’s and the like… so you can probably understand why I had to be so careful!Read more

TravelerI don’t know how you drive on them roads Vik i couldn’t even be a passenger!! Koudos to you tho! I saw a bunny dog today in Ypres she was beautiful xx

TravelerI definitely couldn’t be a passenger,driving is sometimes bloody terrifying but strangely exciting too! We’ve seen loads of lovely dogs but thankfully not many strays or I’d be coming back with one if I could smuggle it past Darren. 😂 Hope you are having a great time. Looking forward to seeing you when we get back. xxx
TravelerHi Vikki Darren and Bliss wonderful to see the three of you living the human and doggie dream life fantastic! All your hard work has paid off zillions for you all. We all miss you but it is great to see how your adventure is progressing so well. It must be so much more than you had ever imagined it would be and there is wine Vikki haha. Take care love to you all Sandie Brian & the boys xxx
TravelerHi, lovely to hear from you, hope you are all well. We are having a great time. We’ve been terrified at times driving around some pretty extreme mountain ranges but still enjoying the amazing beauty all around us. Bliss is loving van life and is excited every time we arrive somewhere new. The wine is so cheap but not over doing it obviously as I am driving most days. 🤪 Give the boys a big hug from us. Xxxxx