• Poor Knights Island Diving Day 2

    28 Aralık 2016, Yeni Zelanda ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    Day 2 started bright and early with a wake-up at 6 AM. It was a little tough getting into our damp and chilly wet suits knowing we had to jump in the cold water for 3 more dives! But we didn't regret it.

    The first dive was along a wall. With murky visibility and seemingly no bottom, it was a bit eery. The swim back to the boat was a little calmer over a field of sea kelp.

    The second and third dives, also along walls, were quite spectacular. At dive guide Ren's suggestion, we got really close to the wall and focused on the macro life. There were lots of little blennies and triple fins to be found, along with different types of moray eels hiding and swimming about: grey, mosaic, yellow and speckled. Scorpion fish were also blending in throughout.

    Overall, we were pretty impressed with New Zealand's premier dive spot. Although the cold water takes some adjustment, there is a plethora of unique little creatures to be found among the colorful rock coral.

    We cruised back into port and then headed further up north.
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  • Poor Knights Island Diving Day 1

    27 Aralık 2016, Yeni Zelanda ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Diving was up next on the agenda. We drove around four hours from Waitomo to Tutukaka, gateway to the Poor Knights Islands. We boarded the Acheron liveaboard and were greeted by dive guides Ashleigh and Ren, cook and ship hand Mandy, and skipper Kevin. There were 6 other divers on board: the Whitehouse family, one Canadian and one Chinese.

    The Poor Knights are volcanic rock formations, rated as one of Jacques Cousteau's top 10 dive sites, in part due to the mix of local cold water and tropical species brought in via current from the Great Barrier Reef - as described in the documentary, Finding Nemo. :)

    We did 3 dives the first day, kitted up in thick 7 mm wetsuits with vest, hood (+ sharkskin for Brittany). Even before jumping in, we saw Schools of trevally hanging out at the surface feasting on small crustaceans.

    There were no tropical coral formations, instead kelp, algae, sponges, and sea fans, with sea urchins throughout. There were colorful byrozoans covering large sections of wall, surrounded by anemone and lots of different nudibranches, from the size of a fingernail to several inches.

    The highlight on the first dive was seeing a small carpet shark hiding under the kelp.

    The third dive, our favorite, was the famous Blue Maomao Arch. The arch extended above water, and consisted of large purple boulders underwater. As hoped, there were massive schools of blue maomaos, a brilliant blue fish local to these waters, who like to hang out in caves and under archways. These were some of the largest schools we've ever seen, beautifully moving in unison around divers.

    For dinner, Mandy served up some lamb legs and a vegetarian lasagna for us. We opted out of the night dive to keep warm, drink some wine and chat with the boat crew. We stayed up just late enough to enjoy warm brownies and ice cream.
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  • Waitomo Caves

    26 Aralık 2016, Yeni Zelanda ⋅ 🌫 37 °F

    Waitomo, located in the center of the North Island, has several underground limestone caves. These are home to bioluminescent glow worms, subterranean rivers, and can be explored through caving. We booked a tour called "Black Abyss" which featured abseiling, rafting, and climbing.

    We got equipped with wetsuits, climbing gear and helmets and set off. After a quick instruction in rapelling, we descended down 30 meters into the cave through a small hole. Once in the cave, we were hooked into a zip line to descend a bit further.

    We didn't stay dry for long. We jumped into the chilly water, which flooded our roomy wetsuits, and tubed a section up to a small waterfall. From there, we linked together, turned off our headlamps, and were pulled along by the guide. There was a galaxy of glow worms that glittered the walls and ceiling. From afar, they're beautiful. We got up close to some as the guide explained more about them. They prey on small insects that get trapped in the cave by attracting them with their glow. The insects think they've found a way out, but instead get stuck in a toxic set of strings produced by the worms.

    We continued by foot down the river - stumbling a bit over the rocky, uneven ground. There were also sections requiring swimming. We slid down a slide the company had installed and that we both agreed was a bit tacky. We ascended out of the caves by free climbing up two sets of waterfalls which was pretty cool.

    After a hot shower, we had some soup and bagels, and then took off to make our way northwards.

    Overall, it was a pretty surreal setting, spending most of our time 60 meters underground. However, we don't think it was really worth the $240/pp price tag. You're not allowed to bring a camera for safety reasons, but they charge $30 to buy the pictures they took. We feel like it would have been more reasonable to have them included. Instead, we leave you with the bathroom warden, a large spider.
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  • Big Bird Farm Stay

    25 Aralık 2016, Yeni Zelanda ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    In a somewhat surprising yet not uninteresting turn of events, we ended up at a farm stay in the central part of the North Island on Christmas Day. We arrived at the Big Bird B&B in the afternoon on Christmas Day, after flying to Auckland and driving two hours south. We were welcomed by our friendly hosts, Ann & Russ. It turns out that they lived on a farm with a large assortment of animals. None of said animals are native to New Zealand, with the exception of the statue of a 12 ft Moa (which is extinct), but it was still a great time!

    Guests are invited on a free farm tour every night at 6pm; visitors are charged $5. Ann was busy tidying up the rooms for a full house of guests so Russ was in charge of the tour. We started off in the ostrich pen. This was a bit intimidating because Russ shared that you typically wouldn't be able to get so close to ostriches because they tend to be territorial. However, he could tell they happened to be very welcoming at the moment with no signs of aggression...

    We walked around the lot while the two ostriches seemed to think they were also human and weaved in and out of the group, following us across the field. One of them was not fond of the farm cat and took an aggressive stance but the cat was quickly shooed away and all was well again. They were very up close and personal - at one point pecking Brittany on the back of the neck (noticing a tag) and at Nico's shoelaces.

    From there, we visited miniature breeds of bulls, cows, pigs, cats, donkeys, horses and many other normal breed animals. According to Ann, this apparently was Russ's first and only tour that he's given but he did a fantastic job answering questions and entertaining us with jokes.

    The rooms were nice, rustic yet clean. We spent the rest of the evening enjoying our previously made egg sandwiches and wine with the rest of the B&B guests (a family from Hawaii and mother/son from NZ) which made for a memorable Christmas dinner.
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  • Marlborough Wineries

    24 Aralık 2016, Yeni Zelanda ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    We didn't have long to transition from paddling to pedaling. Our lodge was surrounded by many wineries (not an accident) and offered bikes to cruise among them. We chose this region for wine tasting (NZ has many) because they produce some of our favorite Sauvignon Blanc. It's quite renowned internationally so it can be found all over in the states.

    Like most good wine regions, the area is subject to large diurnal temperature swings and microclimates. There are also three distinct types of soil (clay) which create different notes: tropical, green bean, and earthy. Most wineries combine grapes from 2 or 3 regions to balance the wine.

    The first stop was Whitehaven. We enjoyed almost all of their lineup, especially the Pinot Gris. Next up was No. 1 Family Estate which specializes in sparkling wine. We also stopped at Huia, where we were joined by fellow Californians, and Giesen, a large producer wth German heritage and generous samples. The last stop before closing time was Nautilus, also quite good and available in the states.

    We rode our bikes back and walked to the grocery store before the impending day-long closure of the entire country. At the store, the owners of a very small family vineyard were passing out more samples so we gladly obliged. Like most people we met, they were eager to tell us about their country. When we asked why everyone was so friendly, he told us that it's because they live so far away from everyone else so they have no choice if they want company.

    Since we were in no condition to drive, and no Uber or taxis in town, we were relegated to dining options in walking distance. We went to an English pub called Cork & Keg for some fish & chips and pizza. Not the best Christmas Eve dinner, but a memorable day nonetheless.
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  • Marlborough Sound Kayaking

    24 Aralık 2016, Yeni Zelanda ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    After a day of travel and realizing that most things would be closed on Christmas Day, we planned for a busy day touring what the region has to offer.

    We booked a half day sea kayaking trip out of a small town called Picton. Picton is the South island port of ferries crossing the Cook Strait from Wellington. We were joined by three other couples - American, Spanish and Australian - all off the cruise ship that was docked for the day. The trip took us out into the Queen Charlotte Sound - one of the many sounds/bays in this area, and also a scenic 70 km walking track. The islands were forested and extended in all directions.

    It was a clear day with excellent weather that made it a perfect morning for kayaking. At times, we saw large pods of jellyfish in the water around us. Since their stings are pretty weak, we were able to get some pictures with the underwater camera. Shallow rocks were covered in mussels, a local delicacy. We also got very close to a NZ fur seal sunbathing on a dock. The various bays feature numerous vacation homes, locally known as baches, which sit empty most of the year.

    We stopped for snacks and drinks in a nice beach cove, and through chit chat found out that the American couple was from Colorado. We paddled a few more bays to yet another sandy beach which was our pickup point. The return drive took us into the hills which made for great views to show just how scenic the area is.

    When we returned to town, it was overrun with cruisers so we made a quick exit. Besides, we had some wine to drink.
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  • Adventure Time - Queenstown Style

    22 Aralık 2016, Yeni Zelanda ⋅ ☀️ 100 °F

    We unfortunately started the trip out with a head cold that probably wasn't helped by the hiking we did in the rain. So, in an attempt to speed up the healing process, we decided to choose an adventure that wouldn't make us feel worse. And, from multiple people's recommendation, it sounded like Jet Boating up the Shotover River was the not-to-be-missed activity. Jetboating was apparently invented by the Kiwis due to few roads but lots of rivers.

    The company we chose, Skipper's Canyon Jet, provided a little bit of history while the tour van was winding up and down a narrow single car dirt road. The area grew in population in the 1860s when gold was discovered. After about 45 minutes down the canyon road, we boarded the jet boat outfitted in lifejackets. There was a brief safety chat, where we were told to hold on and that it might be a bit bumpier than usual due to the high water level being just below safe operating levels.

    As we roared up the river at 90kph, the driver would manuever the boat close to the river banks and walls, through a narrow opening, and threw in a few 360° spins. We stopped under some bungy jump bridges, one of which used to be the highest in the world at 120-130 metres.

    The boat ride was around 30 minutes. We were both expecting a little more of an adrenaline rush based on others' stories, but it was still a fun experience.

    Since it was such a clear day, after arriving back in Queenstown, we decided to take the gondola up for a peak out over the town and surrounding Lake Wakatipu. We enjoyed some Sauvignon Blanc while taking in the views and discussing our travels.
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  • Queenstown Rest Day

    21 Aralık 2016, Yeni Zelanda ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    The day after the trek, we took it easy in Queenstown. We would have slept in but since we went to bed so early, we were up by 7. We did some laundry, walked around town and ventured to a small neighboring village called Arrowtown. It's a nice little town nestled in the mountainside with little shops and cafes. We found a cute outdoor cafe where we enjoyed some wine, avocado toast and mushroom toast. It was incredibly fresh and delicious. Arrowtown was definitely worth the visit.

    That evening, we met Elaine for dinner at a spot known for its fish and chips, Fishbone. She kindly brought us bottle of wine for "saving her life" by offering her a ride. It was a great meal with great conversation and the fish (blue cod) and chips really were quite good!
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  • Routeburn Track Day 2

    20 Aralık 2016, Yeni Zelanda ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    The second leg of the hike consisted of 12 miles over the peak and into the Routeburn Valley in Mt. Aspiring National Park. We were greeted with clear skies that morning, despite clouds being in the forecast. We made our breakfast, repacked our gear and peaced out just after 8.

    The initial section took us up through a forest along the lake. As soon as we passed the treeline, the views turned spectacular. We could look down into the meadow containing the lake and hut, surrounded by freshly snow-capped peaks, partially lit up by the sun's rays. We were trailed by several curious mountain parrots, keas, along the way. Once we completed the climb out of the meadow, the Darren Mountain range came into view across the Hollyford Valley, with a thin cloud running for miles around eye level and the ocean visible in the distance. We stood at the top in awe for several minutes, staring at an alpine setting we'll never forget.

    We continued traversing along the wall parallel to the Hollyford Valley for several more miles, passing creeks and waterfalls along the way. Then the trail turned upwards towards Harris Saddle which separates Fiordland from Mt. Aspiring National Park. As we ascended, a prominent peak came into view, followed by the deep blue Harris Lake. This area is the highest point on the Routeburn, at 1300m/4300ft. We ate lunch here, then continued walking along a cliff along the lake's edge, taking many pictures.

    The way down Harris Saddle into Mt. Aspiring National Park already started to look very different than the Fiordland section of the track. The trail ran along a river and through a grassy meadow. The river was a pretty emerald blue and it eventually lead us to the next hut, Routeburn Falls. We made a quick pit stop here and happened to run into our fellow hut mate Elaine. She was in a rush to catch a bus back to Queenstown, but since that's where we were heading, we offered her a ride and she joined us the rest of the way.

    We continued down a relatively steep section through the forest. There were several suspension bridges along the way, and we caught some great views of the valley. There was a great open meadow along the way. For the remainder of the trek, we continued along the river, crossing it several times and admiring its blue color.

    Just over 7 hours after the morning's start, we arrived at the car park. We celebrated our achievement with miniature bottles of brut waiting in the car (which was relocated from the trail head). A 1 hour drive through Glenorchy and along glacier-blue Lake Wakatipu got us back to Queenstown. After an early dinner, we were in bed before 9.
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  • Routeburn Track Hut

    19 Aralık 2016, Yeni Zelanda ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    We spent the night in one of the NZ Department of Conservation's huts, along Lake Mackenzie. The DOC maintains several huts along each of the "Great Walks" (famous hikes). These feature bathrooms, running (cold) water, gas stoves, bunks, and a resident ranger. The hikers bring sleeping bags, food, cookware, etc. and are responsible for carrying their waste out. This is a pretty nice way to make backpacking more accessible and provides a good opportunity to connect with other hikers.

    We arrived at the hut around 4 PM and grabbed a bunk. Then we headed to the main array to eat some snacks and chat with fellow "trampers" from NZ, Germany, Israel and the US.

    After dinner, the ranger (a veteran of 15 seasons at the same hut) explained the history of the local fauna. Many endemic birds are flightless since there were no land-based predators. With the arrival of the Europeans came rats, possums and scoats which have unfortunately preyed on the birds, thus diminishing their population including several species becoming extinct. Efforts are underway to trap the predators, many led by the ranger himself.

    Afterwards we headed to the bunk room with 28 of our closest friends. Unfortunately it was a snoring symphony so neither of us got great sleep; next time - sleeping pills.
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  • Routeburn Track Day 1

    19 Aralık 2016, Yeni Zelanda ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Before starting our hike, or tramp as it's called in New Zealand, we decided to pick up another layer from a local outdoor store due to the weather forecast. After a 1 hour drive through the rain, we arrived at the trailhead in 6C/42F weather and were happy with our purchase. We donned all our layers and rain gear and headed off into the rainforest... but, we quickly became hot due to the gradual incline and humidity, and each of us chose to shed a layer after 45 minutes or so.

    The hike definitely didn't let you forget that it was located in a rainforest. There was no shortage of waterfalls or small creek beds to cross thanks to the everlasting rain (the area sees rain on 2/3 days). All of the trees and rocks were covered in moss or other plant growth. It felt almost unreal because we hadn't experienced anything like it before. We were very thankful for our rain gear and the thick rainforest canopy which kept a lot of the rain off us. Unfortunately, due to the heavy rain and fog, any clearings in the trees only left views to the imagination.

    About 2 hours into the hike, we started to hear the loud roaring of Earland Falls, and even caught sight of the top through a break in the tree canopy. Once we came upon it, there was a sign indicating a flood route or the route right near the falls. We took our chances and climbed the rocks to the falls. Immediately we were greeted by strong winds and heavy spray! We quickly passed through to avoid getting soaked and freezing, but stopped on the other side to take in the full waterfall at 174 metres high; it really was quite impressive.

    Shortly after the falls, there was a break in the trees where the sky was clearing and we got another view of the waterfall's top. From here, we were able to enjoy our PB&J sandwiches and other snacks before continuing on.

    After about 4 hours, we were out of the rainforest and surrounded by large boulders and more views of the prominent mountain ranges. There was a very luxurious hut, for guided hikers (at a cost of nearly $2k/person), that we passed by on our way to our no frills hut. However, the no frills hut didn't disappoint and had an even better location nestled by crystal clear Lake Mackenzie.
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  • Milford in Rain & Sun

    18 Aralık 2016, Yeni Zelanda ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    The next day, we got an early start to head towards the Fiordland area, home of Milford Sound. First off was a 2 hour drive to Te Anau, where we needed to pick up our hiking passes. The drive was gorgeous: we drove by the "Remarkables" mountain range, along Lake Wakatipu, and then through the green countryside. Brittany was getting used to driving on the left hand side nicely.

    At the park ranger station, we found out that the park was expecting lots of rain and snow at elevations greater than 1000 meters the next day, when we were scheduled to start our hike. While we brought cold weather gear, we certainly weren't expecting this in the New Zealand summer.

    After lunch, we pushed on to Milford Sound on the famous Milford Road. We saw colorful shrubs, open fields of wildflowers, and prominent peaks obscured by the clouds. There were thousands of temporary waterfalls rushing down the mountain sides. It was pouring but we arrived just in time for the last cruise departure. Outfitted in all our rain gear, we climbed aboard with expectations that we wouldn't see much.

    We were sitting inside initially as the guide pointed out some of the waterfalls. After drinking a cup of hot tea, we decided to check out the view from the top of the boat. Being surrounded by the majestic mountains jutting out of the water on all sides, some upwards of 4000 ft, shed new light on the experience. We stayed up top until we got all the way to the Tasman Sea. On the way back, the captain pulled the ship very close to one of the larger waterfalls and urged everyone to experience the power from the bow. Fortunately the rain gear kept us mostly dry. As we headed back to the dock, the clouds started breaking and we got a better view of the fjord.

    As we were leaving, the sun came out, making for some fantastic scenery on the return drive.
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  • Flight into Queenstown

    17 Aralık 2016, Yeni Zelanda ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    After our long haul flight, we went through an incredibly thorough customs check. The customs officials went so far as to wash the dirt off our hiking boots to prevent any contamination of the environment.

    After a quick snack and beer, we boarded the flight to Queenstown. Crossing the country from north to south, the topology started to change from the rolling green landscapes to rugged mountains. As we approached Queenstown, we passed the snowcapped Southern Alps, and New Zealand's tallest mountain, Mt. Cook, all with the ocean in the background. The descent featured green meadows lodged between hills and mountains. The flight itself was quite memorable and a great intro to the south island.

    We picked up a rental car and headed to our hotel. Diving on the left hand side was easier the second time around, following the adventures in South Africa. The scenery around the town is pretty incredible, with steep mountains surrounding Lake Wakatipu.
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  • Trip to the Airport

    15 Aralık 2016, Amerika Birleşik Devletleri ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    The trip to LAX was fun as always. Departing at 8:30 PM, the Lyft ride took 15 mins to get within 1/4 mile of the airport, and 25 mins for the rest of the way. Dropping off the bag was also a challenge, but thankfully we have precheck which enabled us to get a glass of wine before departure. Now we're off on our 13 hour flight through the night and across the international dateline, departing Thursday night and arriving in Auckland on Saturday morning!Okumaya devam et

  • Centro Historico

    31 Ekim 2016, Meksika ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    On our final day, we took a trip to the Centro Historico, the old downtown. The main plaza, known as the Zocalo, is in the same location as the Aztec city Tenochitlan. In fact, part of the massive Metropolitan Cathedral was built with stones from the Aztec's Templo Mayor thanks to Hernan Cortes and his conquistadors. Remnants of the temple's foundation can be seen just behind the church. The massive plaza is also flanked by the National Palace. The whole area looked quite European. As a result of the shifting soil, many of the structures are noticeably crooked (see the picture inside the church).

    The plaza was filled with hundreds of little boats in preparation of the day of the dead festivals. Each boat was filled with pictures, painted skulls, and little gifts to help support the spiritual journey of the departures. We actually saw little, colorful altars everywhere we went. We caught the tail end of the parade on Saturday which featured many people, young and old, dressed up as skeletons with painted faces joining in the celebration.

    With our only impression of Mexico coming from the resort towns in Yucatan and the Pacific, Mexico City offered a completely new experience.  The city featured a modern downtown with top notch restaurants, and of course taco and torta stands. There are permanent rotating art exhibits along Paseo de Reforma, and no shortage of celebrations and festivals. We were lucky to visit during the fascinating dia de muertos festival in which Mexicans celebrate the lives of their relatives. There is an amazing cultural history in the 7000+ ft high Valley of Mexico, home to one of the West's first cities (Teotihuacan), the Aztecs, and then many influences after Spanish colonial conquest. It's definitely worth the quick flight from the US.
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  • Polanco

    30 Ekim 2016, Meksika ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    After a delicious but late dinner, we were able to easily sleep in a little longer... An extra hour more than we had planned because we didn't realize CDMX's daylight savings had taken effect while we slept. We definitely didn't complain. We enjoyed some coffee before setting off to the upscale Polanco neighborhood for a food tour.

    It started in a restaurant called Guzina Oaxaca where we learned about the common ingredients used in salsa and mole. The owner/chef, one of the top 20 in Mexico we were told, helped save the pepper that gives mole negro its black color which is often incorrectly thought to be from chocolate. There are around 45-50 ingredients in a typical mole (vs around 5 in a salsa) and no single ingredient should overpower the rest. Our tour guide, Luis, was very interested in hearing about our Pujol mole experience and was hoping to make it there soon.

    Our next stop was a tamale shop. From the three vegetarian options, we chose the frijol y queso and nopal (cactus) y queso. They were equally delicious. We also tried a different type of atole (traditional warm corn drink) than we had the night prior at Pujol which was a chocolate version.

    Luis took us through the lively Lincoln park which is lined with old Spanish-style mansions that have since been converted into beautiful restaurants. The park was named after a statue of Abraham Lincoln was gifted by president LBJ in the 60s. The park was swarming with people and festivities. In the park was a public viewing of the Formula 1 Grand Prix of Mexico that was taking place in the city that day.

    At our next stop, we enjoyed mushroom quesadillas with hibiscus agua fresca. We learned that the difference between a taco and quesadilla is how they're served - tacos are rolled while quesadillas are folded in half.

    The next two stops were for dessert. First we went to a packed ice cream shop to try "mamey" fruit ice cream. The fruit is the shape of an avocado but pink on the inside and brownish on the. The ice cream was just the right amount of sweet. We followed the ice cream up with a stop at a gourmet chocolate shop that is known for its chocolates designed to taste exactly like other treats such as Mexican cake, mango and chamoy, pistachios, guava and so many others. The chocolates were served with mezcal and, surprisingly, the combination was quite pleasant.

    Agua and Sal, known for its fresh seafood, was the next destination. We enjoyed a refreshing ginger drink and an awesome Marlin tostada. The Marlin was cooked to have a similar texture and taste to pulled pork.

    Finally, and thankfully because we were getting full, our last stop took us to a restaurant known for its tortilla soup. Our guide, forgetting that white meat is not included in our vegetarian eating habits, told us that it contained pork skin. Nonetheless, we tried the soup and it was pretty good, but Brittany was thankful she didn't have crispy pork skin floating around in hers.

    The tour ended close to the highly rated anthropology museum so we decided to stop in. Not being big museum people, we were going to opt for a tour guide but learned they were unavailable on Sundays, so Nico was the impromptu guide. The Mexican history is really fascinating. The exhibits featuring Teotihuacan, Aztec and Mayan history were especially interesting. The Aztec sun stone was the most impressive display.

    We waited out the rain in the museum. On our way back to the hotel, we took a stroll through Chapultepec park and were treated to a pretty sunset over the castle.
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  • Pujol

    29 Ekim 2016, Meksika ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    After reading through a number of foodie travel blogs, one restaurant was recommended throughout: Pujol. There is also an episode on the Netflix series "Chef's Table" that highlights Pujol and chef Enrique Olvera that we watched before our trip.

    We arrived at the restaurant a few minutes prior to 9:30pm and just before a few other parties that must have had the same timeslot. Although the cozy restaurant was packed, we were pleased with the spacing between the tables which allowed for ample privacy.

    As noted in blogs and on Chef's Table, the menu comes delivered in an envelope with a wax stamp of an E. One of the waiters walked us through the menu and asked if we had any food allergies or dietary restrictions, and assured us that our pescetarian diet was of no concern. We allowed for a few compromises: insects and lard. We couldn't pass up the chance to try baby corn that is served with an ant sauce and Enrique's most prized dish, mole madre, which is prepared with lard.

    We started with tequila cocktails and several street food appetizers. While good and showcasing some unique flavors and ingredients, the starters weren't exceptional in our opinion.

    The second course was a vegetable mole dish with mushrooms, greens and crispy banana chunks. The flavors were excellent and we looked forward to trying the mole madre.

    For the third course, Brittany got the Amarillito tamal served with fava beans and Swiss chard; Nico opted for the lobster tostada. The tamale was exceptional and Brittany savored every bite. The lobster tostada was also quite good. The tostada shell was served on top of the serving bowl and the server recommended it be broken up into the crudo-style lobster.

    Course number four featured a buckwheat zucchini blossom and mushroom risotto for Brittany, and fresh seabass with beurre-noisette for Nico. Brittany's dish had a smoky flavor (due to the cheese) and the mushroom were cooked to perfection. The zucchini blossoms added a complementing touch try the cheese. The fish was one of Nico's favorite dishes ever. The preparation of the fish was on par with that of the best Italian restaurants, but what really stood out were the accompanying fresh corn tortillas meant to scoop the food. The combination created a delicious array of flavors.

    Course 5: the Oaxacan specialty mole madre. Two types of mole, one new and the other aged 1111 days, accompanied by fresh tortillas. The presentation of the course itself was a bold statement, relying on a sauce to serve as an entree. However, it did not disappoint. The flavors were really exquisite - one could discover new tastes with every bite. We had to ask for more tortillas (since this course wasn't served with silverware) to scoop up the rest of the delectable dish.

    After the first 5 courses, we were already pretty full but couldn't miss out on the dessert. There were 6 small items served. The first was a pulque sorbet served with chile powder which was very refreshing and cleared the pallet. The remaining 5 desserts were brought out together, and we were instructed to try them in a certain order. The highlight was definitely the churros. They were perfectly crispy and a little bit doughy with just the right amount of cinnamon and sugar.

    Two and a half hours later, we were finished, full and quite pleased. Overall this was definitely one of the best meals we've ever had. The price, when compared with Michelin star restaurants elsewhere, was quite reasonable. Also, as a result of the primary cuisine inspiration, we've added Oaxaca to our list of future destinations.
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  • Trip to Tehotihuacan

    29 Ekim 2016, Meksika ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    We woke up early in an attempt to avoid traffic in town. We caught a quick uber to the omnibus station (only $3 for 20 mins, the exchange rate is quite favorable at 19:1) and then hopped on a bus to Tehotihuacan. We chose this method of transport to bypass the tourist crowds and save money for better things (see: dinner footprint). We hit some traffic out of town so the drive took around 75 minutes. Along the way, we saw lots of colorful houses built up into the hills.

    Upon arrival at the archaeological site, we paid our $3 admission and headed towards the pyramids. The first thing we noticed was that a plethora of vendors were selling a toy/souvenir which made a loud, puma-like growl. It was persistent throughout our stay and quite obnoxious, but what can you do... The site was pretty impressive. The pre-Columbian and pre-Aztec city is estimated to have been home to over 100,000 people in the first centuries BC. What remains are a series of structures along a long road (the Avenue of the Dead), with a number of large plazas for gatherings, and two large pyramids: one in honor of the sun and the other in honor of the moon. One can climb up on both pyramids to look over the entire city ruins. At 216 ft, the pyramid of the sun is the third largest ancient pyramid in the world. Many believe that this was the western hemisphere's first great city.

    For lunch, we decided to try a restaurant recommendation Brittany had found in a travel blog. The blog had noted that it was just outside of Puerta 1 but we soon found out it was actually outside of Puerta 5, a half mile walk away. Although a bit touristy for its location in a cave, La Gruta was tastefully decorated with an altar for Día de Muertos. Vegetarian options were scarce but our waiter kindly suggested the pollo fajitas... without the pollo and with oyster mushrooms instead. The atmosphere and cold beers made it a fun experience.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 1

    28 Ekim 2016, Meksika ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    For Brittany's 30th, we decided to avoid Halloween and check out Día de los Muertos south of the border instead. Thanks to our Southwest companion pass, the flight to Mexico City was quite cheap. Some Marriott points came in handy as hotels were pricey due to the festivities and the F1 grand prix. We sat next to a guy that was headed to CDMX (ciudad de mexico) for his bachelor party and who happened to be a chef in Telluride. We talked about our upcoming reservations at Pujol (one of the acclaimed best restaurants in the world - located in CDMX) and he recommended some favorites in LA and San Diego.

    After a 5 mile drive that took an hour due to traffic that appeared to be worse than our current hometown's, we arrived at our hotel. The Marriott Reforma is in a bustling part of town, the Zona Rosa, that is close to a variety of shops, restaurants and bars. We also discovered that the first annual Día de los Muertos parade (first thanks to the James Bond film Spectre) will take place a short distance away.

    We walked to Mercado Roma, a modern food hall, for dinner. We tried a tostada de callo (scallops) and an empanada de pescado with two Pacificos to wash it down. Next we tried a torta vegetariana that had eggplant, cheese and avocado and 2 artisanal Mexican beers. The flavors of the torta really stood out, complemented well by spicy pickled vegetables.

    Following dinner, we decided to join the long line at the churro stand. Fortunately the friendly couple in front of us showed us that you order first and then wait in line to pick up your food. After around 30 minutes, we were almost up to pick up our churros and Mexican hot chocolate. The couple in front of us started having an intense conversation with the churro chef. I was able to recognize a few words from a TV show we recently started watching (Narcos), such as "hijo de punta," "pendejo," and "tienes juevos"? That's when I realized it wasn't just a friendly conversation. We figured out later that the couple was mad because the chef/cashier had let several people bypass the long line. To top it off, the chef got a slap before the couple stormed off. He was so shocked that he left our churros in the fryer a little too long. They were a bit crunchy but still good...
    Okumaya devam et

  • Stopover in Narita

    6 Haziran 2016, Japonya ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    The long journey home included a lengthy layover in Tokyo. Given that the departing flight left Palau at 1:30 AM, we were ready for some shut eye. Fortunately Narita airport offers day rooms by the hour so we got 5 hours of sleep before boarding our flight to LAX.Okumaya devam et

  • Kayaking in Risong Bay

    5 Haziran 2016, Palau ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

    On the last day, we joined some diving friends for a kayaking tour through the Rock Islands with our dive shop. We got an early start and arrived at Risong Bay around 9 AM. We jumped into the kayaks and paddled into a shallow bay which serves as a nursery for baby black tip sharks - we saw a few of them from a distance. In addition, the lush limestone island are home to an abundance of vegetation and birds (13 endemic species!). We also explored a bay, home to several dugongs, Micronesian sea cows similar to manatees. Unfortunately we didn't see any.

    After the customary bento box lunch, enjoyed in a small cavern, we were met with another tropical rain storm. Given the doctor's orders to not get the stitches wet, we improvised by tying a plastic bag around Nico's head to keep the wound covered. The last stop was Mandarin fish lake in which those that were able partook in some snorkeling. Overall, it was a nice relaxing experience, paddling through the secluded Rock Islands hearing only the sounds of the birds and ocean, though probably not quite worth the (discounted) $120 price tag.

    After exchanging farewells with the dive friends and crew, we grabbed dinner at the Drop Off Bar (the fresh seafood doesn't get old) and then tried to rest up before our 1:45 AM departure (though the mosquitoes weren't cooperating).
    Okumaya devam et

  • Dry Day

    4 Haziran 2016, Palau ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

    The trigger fish attack, although rather annoying, happened at the best possible time during the trip. With no more diving ahead of us, we welcomed the dry day to relax and spend some time out of the water.

    We enjoyed lunch at a spot closer to town specializing in Italian food. The restaurant offered free pick up and drop off which was very convenient. Afterwards, we had the driver drop us off in town so we could look into a few shops and walk around.

    We stopped to get massages at a place recommended by Lureen and Peggy. It had to be a good spot - Peggy got daily massages. We're not sure how they found it because you had to go between some buildings, up some stairs, then down some stairs to find the door.

    The shop was nothing glamorous, but at $20 for an hour body massage, no complaints were made. Our hotel's "special" was $135 for the same. Granted it would be a little fancier, but probably not better.

    After looking in a few shops (we rarely buy souvenirs) we walked back to the hotel, because no trip of ours would be complete without a long walk through the city we're visiting. It was hot. And sweaty. We had to buy ice cream midway to cool down.

    We rounded out the afternoon by the beach and pool, reading our books.

    Almost every person that we encountered and talked to mentioned the Taj. The Taj is an Indian restaurant in town - it also offers free pick up and drop off! Wouldn't it be nice to have that option back home? You wouldn't have to worry about parking and everyone could drink! Anyway, we heard the same thing from everyone, "Great food, kind of pricey." We figured since everyone mentioned it, we should at least give it a try and add it turns out, we'd say the same - great food, kind of pricey!
    Okumaya devam et

  • Diving Day 5 - Blue Sites & the Attack

    3 Haziran 2016, Palau ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    Our final day of diving put us on the same boat with many of the same divers we dove with earlier in the week. Sergi asked Nico where he wanted to go and he quickly said "Blue, anything blue." We hadn't done the Blue Hole yet so it was our first stop and our final dive would be the Blue Corner.

    The Blue Hole was similar to the Siaes Tunnel but had larger openings in the ceiling and provided more light. Sergi showed us disco clams (they have hair(?) that lights up blue) and nudibranches that called the overhang their home.

    Once we were out of the hole, we continued along a steep wall that had so much action you didn't know where to look. There was an amazing amount of large schools of fish swimming just away from the wall, little fish that swam closer to the coral, and sharks that would appear and then fade out into the blue, reappearing moments later. It was incredible. At this point, our companion Jim ran low on air so he ascended with the second guide leaving us with just Sergi.

    As we drifted along, we recognized the area as the Blue Corner where we had previously hooked in. That day's current was much calmer, allowing us to swim idly into it to stay in place so we could watch the underwater world at work. We saw schools of jacks / tuna so dense you couldn't see the blue behind. Sharks approached within arm's reach on multiple sides. We continued to drift along as we came upon two turtles and two huge schools of barracudas. The show of marine life in the blue simply didn't stop.

    Once we reached the other side of the Blue Corner, Sergi instructed us to kick against the current. It was a bit tiring, but we eventually made it across the plateau where we could drift along again. Luckily, we checked our computers and noticed that we were close to going into deco (our computers are very conservative) and needed to start shallowing up. It was a long dive, almost 70 minutes with max depth of 90 feet, and easily the best dive of the trip and quite possibly ever. Sergi agreed that this was Blue Corner at its finest.

    We took a quick lunch break and were right back at Blue Corner. This time the current was strong, really strong. We pulled ourselves down the mooring line and then kicked like hell to get past the wall. Brittany, diving with the big camera, kept getting stuck because of the reef hook and had to ascend to recollect herself before taking another path to the hook point. It was a battle to kick against the current and trying to find a safe place to grab onto. Midway through the struggle, dive guide Earle hooked her in, continuing on after much needed rest. They finally hooked in a few feet away. And boy, we were hooked in. Bubbles were drifting away horizontal and looking sideways would rip the goggles off your head. The fish, who were enjoying holding against the current, were out in full force with loads more sharks, barracuda, jacks, and more.

    After unhooking, we were once again alone with Sergi. We drifted over the sand bottom plateau. I (Brittany) noticed Sergi being chased by an aggressive Titan triggerfish when accidentally swimming over its nest - a bit funny at first; the fish ended up biting his fins several times. Nico was right behind but was looking towards me, so he didn't see the triggerfish coming right for his head, twice, one of which he took out a dime-sized chunk. Nico turned to kick away, and a small cloud of blood, which looked green underwater, trailed after him. He was fine to keep diving, and the pressure appeared to stop the bleeding. We finished the dive, seeing an eel, Dori fish, and a turtle along the way. (Luckily no sharks were spotted for the remainder of the dive...)

    Upon exiting, the other divers were already discussing the "real" Blue Corner - apparently it was a tough dive for all. Once they discovered that Nico had been assaulted by the triggerfish, they each had to take a picture of the wound.

    Once back at the dive shop, Rico, the manager, took a look at the injury and asked Sergi to take us to the hospital. He needed stitches.

    The hospital was quiet but it still ended up taking a long time. We were moved from (empty) waiting room to (empty) waiting room. He was finally called and questioned. We thought triggerfish injuries would have been a common thing they dealt with considering how aggressive they are but the nurses and doctors were all surprised/amused that a fish had done it.

    2 stitches, a fancy haircut, new headwear (bandages), and $190 later, we were released. Sergi dropped us off at our hotel and we took the rest of the night easy.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Diving Day 4 - Ngemelis / Chandelier Cav

    2 Haziran 2016, Palau ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    The fourth day of diving took us back to Ngemelis Island for a mellow dive as well as Palau's quintessential dive site Blue Corner. On the boat, we were joined by a boisterous couple from South Africa. Jonathan was a physician turned travel guide, G(iovanna) was a former dive master at Sam's, and together they own Apex Expeditions. Hearing about their travels made us look like home bodies. Despite Jonathan meeting the adrenaline junky cliche, we enjoyed talking to someone so passionate about exploring the world's marine and wildlife.

    The first dive was Fairyland. With no current and great viz, this dive made for spectacular macro shots. For those of you not familiar, underwater macro photography focuses on the little things: anemone, nudibranches, small reef fish, soft coral formations, etc. This really illustrates the staggering amount of marine bio diversity present in the Indo-Pacific coral triangle. The new camera setup worked great with macro mode and the strobe light, and we got some pointers on fish ID from G and Sergi. More pictures to come once we filter through our collection. Lunch was spent in the boat moored near an idyllic beach with perfect weather.

    Relaxation was not the theme of the second dive, our first experience at Blue Corner. We were briefed on using reef hooks which are used to attach yourself to rocks / dead coral in the strong currents. Upon entering, we inched down the mooring line and then had to vigorously kick against the current to reach the area protected by the wall. After drifting along the wall, we hooked in to watch massive schools of jacks swim by, joined by many great reef and white tip sharks coming close and then fading off into the blue. There were also several turtles, barracudas, bumphead parrotfish, and an octopus.

    The day's final dive was near the dive shop at Chandelier Cave. After dropping off several divers, we took a 30 sec boat ride to the opening. We saw four different chambers where we surfaced and "hung out" for a bit, chatting with Sergi. The first one was the biggest and it had a large Stalactite that looked like a Chandelier, giving the cave its name. Of course, since it was a cave, it was dark, so we closely followed Sergi to each chamber so we wouldn't get lost. However, on the way out, we turned off our torches and swam towards the light blue opening of the cave.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Diving Day 3 - Ulong

    1 Haziran 2016, Palau ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    In a pretty wild coincidence, we were joined on the boat by Nico's coworker Craig who was spending a few days in Palau on his dad's, a pilot, layover.

    The first dive was Siaes Tunnel which started with a decent to nearly 100 ft into a hole with lots of beautiful coral along the wall. Upon leaving the tunnel, we swam along a spectacular wall falling off into the deep blue, along which we saw lots of small stuff, a feeding turtle, and a large pufferfish. This was definitely one of the best dives to date.

    The second dive was a repeat of Ulong channel, this time the other way. Unfortunately we didn't take any pictures because we anticipated strong current, but the dive was great. Tons of grouper, several sharks, and many other creatures.

    The third dive was on Siaes Corner, picking up where Siaes tunnel left off. Again, tons of color, big sea fans, and just overall great diving. We even got to try out the reef hooks, connecting us to the floor to watch the marine life in the current.

    For dinner, we stopped at the nearby Drop Off Bar for tasty fish tacos (by recommendation) and Poke. The view overlooked one of the many bays and offered a pleasant atmosphere while we dined.
    Okumaya devam et

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