A Warm Bath and a Few Beers

Out for 08:30 this morning and broke the back of today's driving getting to Holmavik in just under 3 hours. It was a scenic drive back and forwards along a series of peninsulas sitting in the sea. A bit like putting your hand on a piece of paper and drawing round your fingers. No gravel roads and not too much climbing made for a more relaxing drive than yesterday.

In Holmavik went to the witchcraft museum, which detailed the witch hunts that took place in the 1600s. In Iceland those accused of witchcraft were almost always male and when accused if you couldn't convince or pay people to speak up for you then it was likely you'd be burned at the stake. The museum also had lots of information on how to perform spells. Menstruating virgins were in big demand in the recipes as was blood from one or other of your own nipples.

Checked into the hotel, which is literally in the middle of nowhere at 3pm. The hotel has a geothermal swimming pool as well as natural geothermal bathing pools, known as hot pots, not quite the same as we have up in Lancashire. Getting in was a little precarious as the rocks were slippery with algae but once in it was lovely, like a really warm bath that never gets cold and no chance of getting your toe struck in the tap.

Being so isolated, the highlight of the evening was was going to the buffet dinner. Fortunately we'd been to the Vinobudin (the state owned alcohol shop) yesterday and stocked up. It's about a third of the price charged in bars and restaurants, which usually charge just over £10 for a 500ml beer. I keep the beer in the car as by the evening that keeps it nice and cold.

Weather: 11 degrees, cloudy

Mileage: 173 miles Isafjordur to LaugarhollRead more