Bintan, Indonesia

We had a short visit to Bintan Island (in the Riau archipelago of Indonesia) but it looked like a beautiful place to come back to. It is 453 square miles and its closeness to Singapore (45 minutes byLeer más
We had a short visit to Bintan Island (in the Riau archipelago of Indonesia) but it looked like a beautiful place to come back to. It is 453 square miles and its closeness to Singapore (45 minutes by boat) has resulted in development of beaches as popular resorts with hotels. The resorts were new and the beaches were fabulous, clear with great sand. We went to the Bintan Resorts where there is 740 acres of beautiful beaches and tropics.
There are many things to see and do and we hope to get back to the mangroves, resorts, snorkeling, spas, Penyengat Island & all the Temples (including a Temple of 500 stone statues of arhats (those that have achieved Nirvana).Leer más
Brunei Darussalam (the Abode of Peace) is a country located on the north coast of the island of Borneo in Southeast Asia. The population is 425,000 (more than 25,000 lost in COVID) of whom about 100,000 live in the Capital and largest city, Bandar Seri Begawan. The people speak Malay (Melayu Brunei) and English. The government is an Absolute Monarchy ruled by its Sultan, and enforces a combination of English common law and Sharia, as well as general Islamic practices. Successful oil production since the 1930 has made this a rich nation for the past 100 years.
The tiny state of Brunei who gained total independence from Britain in 1984 is led by a very rich Sultan due to its bountiful oil and gas reserves. I wish I could say that the entire population was economically stable and secure. We took a tour today in the Capital City (17 miles from Muara) that showed off the decadent wealth of this country in its buildings and edifices to Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah (since he took the role from his father in 1967). The Sultan is worth more than 40 billion dollars. The wealth of the nation is divided as follows: 15% with the Sultan extreme wealth, 10 % in the Sultans royal family that is wealthy, 30% with the middle-class incomes and 45% of the population are the poor people of this Nation. Of course, the government will tell you that no one pays taxes and health care is free, but the centralized wealth with the Sultan has created an apparent split where the bulk of the money is spent on building, roads and other ways to impress and show its wealth to the World (i.e., the Sultan’s solid gold rolls Royce and chariot). His car collection is reported to be 7,000....
In addition to wealth, the social and politically disturbing situation comes from when the Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah announced in 2013 his imposing Penal Code from Sharia (i.e., stoning of gays, amputations for crimes, and mistreatment of women) on the country's Muslims (two thirds of the country's population) making Brunei the first and only country in East Asia to introduce Sharia into its penal code. The move attracted international criticism from the United Nations expressing "deep concern”. The U.S. Department of State has stated that discrimination against women is a problem in Brunei.
We learned a little about the history of this area and that there are still Iban (the local Borneo island headhunters) in some areas of the jungle here. They still occasionally have fights between tribes and believe in chopping off heads … but they don’t shrink them or believe in cannibalism. … if thats comforting. The cities are filled with observant Muslims in this very conservative Country.
Kampung Ayer , the Water Village, was our first stop. We got off our bus at the jetty and took a long boat around and arrived at one of the docks here. After walking across a precariously built walkway we arrived at this 1300 year old settlement. They have built 6 neighborhoods of traditional houses, 9 schools and mosques built on stilts above the Brunei River and only accessed by boat on about 4 square miles with a population of 30,000. Houses are made of wood and are in traditional Malay style and built with individualized styles. We visited a home in the Water Village and ate four interesting treats that are common to their culture here in Brunei (see photos). Kuih Bahulu is a dish prepared with wheat flour, eggs, sugar, baking powder and is a sponge cake made in a cast-iron mold. Ardam, a traditional kuih (bite sized snack) sweetened with gula anau (sweetener from the mangrove palm) and looks like a donut. Selurut has a very soft texture, made with steamed rice drenched in salted water and coconut milk wrapped in a spiral of piece of husk and Kelupis a rice cake wrapped in Nyirikleaf. These are all refreshments (and black ceylon tea) served during a special occasion. All very different but tasty which Karen liked more than Bruce!Leer más
We visited the Royal Regalia Museum which was filled with photos and memorabilia of the Sultan growing up and then gold items that were obtained from the time of the Sultans Coronation. Once again, an over-the-top display of his kingdoms wealth.
We drove past many mosques all very impressive and stopped at the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque built in 1950 with gold-domes and marble minarets. The most impressive we saw was the Jame’Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque built in 1990s to honor the Sultan’s 25 years with an overwhelming 29 golden domes.Leer más
From a distance we got a glance at the Israna Nurul Iman Palace. The Sultans $400 million residence has 1800 rooms, 257 bathrooms, 564 chandeliers and a 5,000 seat banquet hall. We also stopped to see the Prime Minister office building and the Legislative Council Building where they meet to budget for about 2 months a year. As you can see from the photos, each one of these building complexes are bigger than life and bigger than their equivalent in any country we have ever been to. We can’t find any logical reason except the Sultan’s money can be thrown out on these structures that show off the Country’s wealth. When it comes to politics it was very clear that they enjoy the Sultans decision making on everyone’s behalf. We were told “it is a much better system than in Countries where you get to vote and choose a candidate for office that you may not like later. With the Sultan they know there is no need to let the people make a bad decision”. This comment was made about 5 minutes after we passed by their "CIA" building in which we were told they were listening to everything that was being said within a 5 mile radius of their building.
Overall, a very uncomfortable place where all explanations seemed to be “filtered” and skewed to believe that way of life here is the optimal compared to elsewhere around the world.Leer más
Sunset, as we are off for 2 days at sea on the South China Sea on our way to experience 6 days in Vietnam
Bruce asked Dottie, our Cruise Director, to assemble those going Around The World to wear their "map" clothing to take a group shot. Some of us assembled and after 10 takes, the last one was a winner!
Many of us born in the 40’s, 50’s and 60’s remember the Vietnam War as a long, costly and divisive conflict between the North Vietnam communist government and South Vietnam/United States. More than 2 million people, 58,000 Americans, were killed in the Vietnam War until we finally pulled out in 1973. There were over 3 million wounded and 12 million refugees. Communist forces ended the war by seizing control of South Vietnam in 1975. Over 3 million American troops served there beginning 1954 with more than half a million that came back with PTSD (not to mention all the drug problems).
Vietnam had been under French colonial rule since the 19th century until the Japanese invaded in WWII and then Ho Chi Minh decided to follow the Chinese/Soviet models and adopt communism in Hanoi (1945) as the French followed with supporting Bao Dai in a more Western culture in Saigon (1949) … splitting the country at the 17th parallel.
By 1955 American military and the CIA helped “capture“ 100,000 Viet Cong (Communists) in the South. Working under the domino theory that if one Southeast Asian country fell to communism, many other countries would follow, JFK increased U.S. aid in 1962 (about 9,000 troops). Instability in the area convinced LBJ to increase support and after US destroyers were attacked in the Gulf of Tonkin in 1964, the US attacked North Vietnam.
In addition to attacks throughout Vietnam, from 1964-1973, the United States dropped two million tons of bombs on Laos and Cambodia to prevent flow of supplies to North Vietnam. In 1965 we sent 250,000 troops to Vietnam, air attacks in the North and ground fighting in the South. The North Vietnamese did not let up with help from China and the Soviet Union. By 1967, the number of American troops in Vietnam was 500,000, and U.S. casualties had reached 15,058 killed and 109,527 wounded.
As the war went on there was no way to tell if anyone was winning and lots of mistrust in the government and between 1966-1973, more than 503,000 U.S. military personnel deserted, and a large anti-war movement started protests in the US. By 1968 there were many signs that showed our involvement was wrong from drugs, civilian killings and support for corrupt governments overseas. When Nixon became president, he announced a program to withdraw U.S. troops but increasing aerial bombardment and training the South Vietnamese. Unfortunately, nothing changed and in the next few years there was more deaths to Americans and innocent South Vietnamese (including the My Lai Massacre). Anti-war protest grew in the US in particular on college campuses (i.e, Kent State shooting) until finally troops were withdrawn and other deserted and many dodged the draft before it ended in 1973 with a peace agreement between the US and North Vietnam. Fighting still continued until 1975 when Saigon was lost to North Vietnam. Warfare had demolished the country’s infrastructure and economy, and reconstruction proceeded slowly.
In 1976, Vietnam was unified as the Socialist Republic of Vietnam, though sporadic violence continued over the next 15 years, including conflicts with neighboring China and Cambodia. Under a broad free market policy put in place in 1986, the economy began to improve, boosted by oil export revenues and an influx of foreign capital. Trade and diplomatic relations between Vietnam and the U.S. resumed in the 1990s. In the past 20 years, the growth here has been astonishing as business have opened, infrastructure built, and financial success came to many people.
Sadly, in the US, the effects of the Vietnam War continued. We spent more than $120 billion on the conflict from 1965-73 leading to inflation, oil crisis, a divided nation and continued physical and mental health issues for those that tried to get back to the lives they left behind. Many returning veterans faced negative reactions from both opponents of the war (who viewed them as having killed innocent civilians) and its supporters (who saw them as having lost the war), along with the effects of exposure to Agent Orange (originally used to thin out the dense forest of Vietnam).Leer más
After navigating the South China Sea (East Sea, to the Vietnamese) and the limestone islands, we spent today in Ha Long Bay. We slowly got into the dock after a very long entrance because of the maze of islands and junks to get past. You can see from the photos that it was misty grey day but that gave these islands, that are all named, more character.
You might ask, where is Ha Long Bay? It is in North Vietnam, and only 106 miles from Hanoi. Hanoi has about 3 million people and was run by Ho Chi Minh from 1954-1969. Ha Long Bay was also the site for many naval battles and the Vietnam war -- a story for another time. As you know, the US bombed Hanoi in 1965 until 1975 when North Vietnam took control of all of Vietnam. Hanoi is an industrial and agricultural center but more than 75% work for this Communist government. Economic policies that are open to companies making money here has attracted investments in the last 30 years.
The Bay has been a World Heritage site since UNESCO in 1994. We spent our day in a very different environment from Hanoi, filled with history and culture in Ha Long Caves. Ha Long (where the dragon descends to the sea) is famous for its 2000 islands in the water and hundreds of small mountains with caves on land next to the sea. The grottoes and caves is a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994. The names include Heavenly Gate, Tortoise Rock, Man Head Rock, The Isle of Wonders, Tea Pot Rock, Elephant and Devil's Face.
“Where the dragon descends to the sea” comes from a story about the area being attacked by northern invaders. Local settlers prayed and asked the sky god for help who subsequently sent a dragon that stomped down on the earth with such force that mountains crumbled, forming large valleys that soon filled with water. Only the peaks of the mountains, now these rocky islands of Ha Long Bay, remain above the surface. Halong Bay and the surrounding area are made up of this thick limestone, which began forming during the Carboniferous period, around 340 million years ago. Ahhhhh. (Note: I read a few other dragon stories of how these islands were formed but I think this one sounded most "realistic".)
After cruising the bay in a Junk and hearing stories and myths of the area, we began to see some of the “famous” islands, known for their many stories and their shapes, creatively looking like animals and scenes. Here is the most famous story about the “Chicken Chickens”. Note: in the next post you will see this evening we received gifts shaped like these two rocks made from coal.
The Halong Kissing rocks are thought by many not to be fighting chickens but rather a rooster and hen kissing that represent the test of time and their belief in eternal love. It is located in Trong Mai Islet 3 miles from Bai Chay Wharf where we left from. The islet stands at about 30 feet above sea level, and according to some, the two chickens have stood by each other for thousands of years, representing the steadiness of faithful love.
There is a traditional folk story told by the Vietnamese that talks of the origins of Vietnam. In this story the highest God in Heaven, Ngoc Hoang, sent a ferocious dragon mother and her children to help the early Vietnamese fight off foreign invaders (maybe the same ones that created all the islands). When the war was won, Ngoc Hoang was surprised that the dragon mother and her children did not return to heaven and sent two chickens to bring them home. The chickens were so taken by the beauty of Halong Bay that the two chickens themselves fell in love and forgot the mission that Ngoc Hoang had given them! From then on they remained in Halong Bay and over time petrified and turned into stone.
The other highlight of the day was the visit to Dông Thiên Cung, the Heaven Palace Cave of the Dragon King and his Queen. This cave which has been part of legend for generations, was lost to the jungle covering it until 1993 when it was rediscovered. The way up to Thien Cung Cave is through a winding pathway of steps, surrounded by thick jungle. The cave is a dry cave and is a complex inner structure with high ceilings.
The legend of Thien Cung Cave says that it was the ancient home of a Dragon King and his Queen. The Dragon King and Queen had a wedding at the heart of the cave, attended by mythical creatures. After the marriage, they had 100 children and lived in the cave while the King protected Halong Bay’s inhabitants from invaders. When their 100 children were grown, half of the children remained in Halong Bay as its guardians and protectors, and the other half left to help the rest of Vietnam. We could see (with a little help) all the creatures and animals that came to the wedding.
A fun adventure that was incredibly beautiful as the light shines in from all different directions and openings and entrances/exits to the cave.Leer más
See first posting for explanation.
Candlelit Cave Evening
Our fourth Special ATW Event (the first three were in: Buenos Aires, Cape town and Dubai) is in Ha Long Bay, Vietnam in a CAVE. Ha Long is famous for its 2000 islands and hundreds of small mountains with caves. Some caves you can get to only by water and some by land. The cave was beautiful as the stalactites and stalagmites were lit up with candles throughout the tunnels and open areas.
We got on buses at the dock for a 45-minute drive to the VUNG DUC CAVE. When we arrived, there were dragons dancing and drums drumming and fireworks everywhere greeting us. Greeters lined both sides of the entrance and the cave wearing traditional Ao Dai dresses lined the entrance and welcomed us.
The Vung Duc Cave is located on the beautiful Bai Tu Long Bay surrounded by Ban Co mountain range. This is a unique site of high historic, religious significance made up of 5 caves. There are stone curtains curving, looking like a big stage. Above the ceiling, there are stalactites falling down like the carefully shaped chandeliers, Inside the cave it is divided into two branches. The cave has many interesting rock shapes, often thought of as resembling animals. As you can see from the photos, every turn and everywhere you look is another interesting site to see.
There was soothing music and cocktails in the “first branch of the caves” with high top tables around and appetizers abound. Mai Tai’s, Pina Colada’s, and many other drinks were made up and waiting but there was a full open bar to allow the alcohol and wine to flow all night.
I was told by the manager that this venue had never been used before for sit down formal dinners but you would never know with the grace and beauty of the evening. The dinner was a multi course buffet of seafood, interesting beef, and chicken dishes, stir fried vegetables, sushi, many types of rice and hot pots. Desserts were so intriguing too … looked so nice and many were delicious too. The folk show had many acts that were all traditional Vietnamese celebration of songs and dances. There was music all night and at the end we even got up to dance.
We found the dancing so relaxing and interestingly different from so many cultures. Traditional Vietnamese dancing is rooted in the country’s ancient culture and has been passed down through generations. It is often used to celebrate special occasions and to honor the gods and ancestors. The dances are accompanied by music, with traditional instruments like drums, gongs, and bamboo flutes. One of my favorite dances was the conical hat dance of the Mekong Delta. It is a very peaceful dance with "heroic" melodies, imparting the national spirit and the burning love for the country.
Traditional folk music is very popular in Vietnam and is often played at gatherings and festivals. This type of music typically features instruments such as the dan bau (a one iron string mahogany instrument that can express every level of tone and emotion with extremely rustic sound), the đàn nguyệt (two-stringed), the đàn tranh (14, 17, 22 or 25 stringed zither from the 11th century with movable bridges, performers wear a pick on every finger), sao truc (bamboo flute and a carved oval hole to blow in one head and six other holes along the body to adjust the sound.), and the t’rung instrument (a popular percussion instrument with 16 pipes lined up on the rack, using an awl to knock on the pipes and create a different very special high and low sound depending on the loudness, small, long, and short of the tube). Yes, I was amazed by the instruments and music and although the videos have short clips of the performances, I recorded the entire show!
At the end of the evening, we got to take home a beautify wrapped gift for each person. It was a handmade sculpture made out of coal (their original national resource of this area) of the Kissing Chickens (which we saw in person earlier in the day), a romantic symbol of Ha Long Bay.
Another fabulous and memorable event!!!Leer más