Crossed the Atlantic!

This trip across the Atlantic was a lot shorter than the "normal" crossing from the U.S/New York to the UK which takes a week (3200 miles). Since South America is further East than New York and AfricaOkumaya devam et
This trip across the Atlantic was a lot shorter than the "normal" crossing from the U.S/New York to the UK which takes a week (3200 miles). Since South America is further East than New York and Africa is further West, it only took 3 days (1700 miles).
The Atlantic Ocean, the second largest, covers 20% of the Earth's surface!
At its deepest point (Milwaukee Deep by Puerto Rico) it is 27,500 feet deep.
The warm, moist air of the southern Atlantic ocean often brings rain, hurricanes and other challenging weather and fog to the East Coast of the US. (Nor'easters).
[Note: Thats why we moved West after 60 years].
Of course, the Atlantic is home to a very wide range of sea-life including lobsters, whales, sharks, seals and dolphins and tons of species of fish. There are also dozens of species of birds including seagulls, albatross and penguins.
The Atlantic is one of the worlds heaviest trafficked sea routes between Eastern and Western hemispheres.Okumaya devam et
We arrived today at the West African island country of Cape Verde (pop 588,000) which is about 350 miles from the coast of Africa (Senegal). We spent the day on the island of São Vincent (one of 10 islands as indicated by the stars on their flag) which covers 1,557 square miles. We arrived at Porto Grande Bay on the north side of the island where Mindelo is located, the largest port city lined with old colonial houses. The city is home to 93% of the entire island's population (81,014) where 49% are under 25 years old and only 7% over 65 years old. In Cape Verde the population speak Portuguese and Creole (a hybrid African language).
As background, uninhabited until the 15th century, Cape Verde became the first European settlement in the tropics. Cape Verde islands were located in a convenient location to play a role in the Atlantic slave trade and therefore attracted a strong economy in the16th and 17th centuries. They also provided key supplies of water and food to boats sailing to America, Europe and Africa. From 1815-1822, Brazil owned these islands and then in 1951 they were what was considered an overseas Portuguese department. In 1975 they became independent and is considered one of the most democratic and stable countries in Africa.
Although the Cape Verde is not very “Verde” (green) with its barren mountain scenery, there are interesting formations that lead down to beautiful beaches. First, we went to Praca Nova, the colonial square and went into the Cape Verdean Cultural museum and theater which includes rotating exhibits from local artists and a quaint old theater (interesting model boats). We then visited an active fish market, a vegetable market and an outdoor art exhibit. Next, we walked to a West African marketplace that sold handcrafted goods of wood, wicker baskets and art.
We visited the beautiful Catfish Bay (at Baja das Gatas). The highlight was when we went up to the top of majestic Monte Verde (not easy on these stone laid roads), the highest point on Sao Vincent at 2500 feet high for great views of the crescent shaped Praia Grande with white sand and black lava mountains. Even with the fog rolling in, it was quite an experience.
At the TOP of Monte Verde I got to “try” grogue, the national liquor made from sugarcane of Cape Verde. Grogue is a traditional drink made using a press (trapiche). Grogue, handmade, is also used for “medicines” and may soon (once the production is standardized) be offered in Europe!
NOTE: there are 2 videos in this post. The first follows the is just after the guy cleaning fish. If you are viewing the photos in full screen, click on it to see the arrow to play it. The second video follows the handicrafts and gives you an idea of the trip up the mountain.Okumaya devam et
GezginKaren you look so happy in a photo here. Bruce - not so much on that bus photo. More importantly, this island looks stunning - love the baskets and the dramatic landscape. Thanks for sharing your travels.
GezginI was pleasantly surprised how nice Cape Verde was. The city is small and interesting but the places we went outside the city were an unexpected surprise - very clean, scenic and serene!
GezginI just meant those little homes on the water...maybe we can move them to NB
Too many photos and videos for one post!
NOTE: there are 2 videos in this post. The first follows the collage of Bruce. If you are viewing the photos in full screen, click on it to see the arrow to play it. The second video follows the next two photos and gives you an idea of the trip up the mountain.Okumaya devam et
GezginHi Mindy - me too! And welcome back - your trip looked like you had a lot of fun (except for the run in with the curb!).
GezginI’d love to know what you used to make the collage! My trip was excellent (except for the trip!). I came home and ordered the book from penguin. Can’t wait to see how it came out.
GezginIt's called Photo Collage Maker. I used it on one other post the other day and plan to use it every now and then for situations like this one! I am eager to hear what you think about the book. Let me know. And we will have to get together later this summer/early fall once we are finally home.
GezginI’ll check out Photo Collage Maker. Thanks for the tip! I’ll definitely let you know about the book and would love to get together when you are back!
Does Maritime Piracy make you think of a one-eyed sailor drinking rum and singing songs (or maybe Johnny Depp or Captain Phillips). Actually, Piracy is still a serious problem and a threat to ships and people. We have been told that for the next month we are in a “High Risk Area”. What does that mean? PIRACY, believe it or not.
Not to worry, we are traveling in designated waters that are patrolled by International navy vessels from the US and UK. Several international legal instruments are in place to combat threats posed by piracy. The key agreement is the UN Convention on the Law of the Sea, which prescribes an agreement for where and how ships can operate and do business. All West African countries have signed and ratified this Law. That's some comfort.
We have been told to stay off the open decks at night and they are keeping the lights off on decks in order not to attract attention/ We have had a drill already and they asked us to keep curtains closed and lights off at night. Lastly, armed Security has joined us for the duration … part of the Adventure.
Here is something interesting I found: International institutions are crucial for counter-piracy efforts, but they require long-term commitment. Combined Task Force 151 is a multinational naval task force, set up as a response to disrupt piracy at sea and to engage with regional and other partners to build capacity and improve relevant capabilities in order to protect global maritime commerce and secure freedom of navigation. CTF 151 responds to crises and contingencies; coordinates, plans, and executes operations; conducts theater security cooperation; and advances emerging Naval concepts at sea, from the sea, and ashore to support U.S. Central Command, 5th Fleet, and Marine Corps Forces Central Command theater objectives.
According to CTF 151, the last attack by pirates in the Somali Basin took place in April 2019 and was ultimately unsuccessful. The last successful piracy attack was in Spring 2017, marking just the first hijacking since 2012. The CTF 151 just finished their last readiness test in the area this past January!Okumaya devam et
Senegal, West Africa is the country that is the “Gateway to the African Continent”, rich in culture, art, and traditions, with six national parks and the home to 7 UNESCO World Heritage Sites. An important U.S. partner, promoting peace, security, and strong beliefs in ethnic and religious tolerance in Africa. Unfortunately, poor infrastructure, underinvestment, and outdated policies have led to very slow growth. US Agency for International Development Aid (USAID) has worked to create jobs, improve access to education and health care, strengthen democratic institutions, and develop the agriculture sector to increase production and income.
In the 14th century the English, French, Portuguese and Dutch all wanted Senegal. In 1815, France abolished slavery and began expanding inland and during the second half of the 19th century, they took possession of Senegal as a French colony. Finally, in 1959, the French colonies of Senegal and French Sudan were merged and granted independence in 1960 as the Mali Federation. About 40% of the population are Wolof, a group of nobility that are musicians and storytellers, where most of the country’s art and music began. Besides music and art, they are known for Negritude, a literary movement that was popular in the 1930-50s that emphasized African values and heritage. They also control much of the commerce, making for tensions between them and other groups.
Language? There are 39 languages spoken in Senegal, including French (the official language) and Arabic. The other 37 African languages are broken into two groups, Atlantic and Mande. Of course, we couldn’t tell the difference, and our lack ANY African words or decent French didn’t help.
Large Families? With up to FOUR wives being legal and accepted by Muslim culture, and there being little family planning, many have 5+ children (do the math that gives many man upwards of 20 children). The Senegal River provides much of the fishing that sustains the people. Unfortunately, with illiteracy more than 40%, unemployment very high, such widespread poverty, and food insecurity, Senegalese young people face very low chances of decent jobs and futures. The governments (since 1960) has invested heavily in infrastructure and that should help the economy and the job situation.
Islam is the predominant religion (95%) with 3 distinct brotherhoods (groups) of Muslims. The remainder 5% are Christian (mostly Catholic). Senegal covers a land area of almost 76,000 square miles with a population of over 18 million with 4 million people living in Dakar (a volcanic peninsula). Half of all Senegalese live in the countryside, although people continue to migrate to the towns, especially the capital city of Dakar. In the country there is approximately 5 people/sq mile (83 in some of the more crowded areas and over 3000 per square mile in the cities.
The country is very young, 40% under 15 years old, and 42% between 15-44 years old, leaving few over 45 (with a life expectancy of 61). Exports continue to be peanuts followed by cotton, salt and sugar.
The Socialist Party of Senegal ruled for 40 years until Abdoulaye Wade was elected president in 2000 (re-elected in 2007). Wade amended Senegal's constitution over a dozen times to increase executive power and weaken the opposition but he lost the next election to current President Macky Sall who is in his second term to end in 2024. As of recent times there is political unrest in Senegal with more than 200 political parties (I made the mistake of looking up the news TODAY, leading up to their next election https://www.aljazeera.com/news/2023/3/16/more-u…) with 20 political parties and lots of accusations related to corruption.Okumaya devam et
We spent an entire day on tour in the capital, Dakar and it was quite an emotional day. On the drive to Pink Lake we went through the city at a very slow pace, no street lights or for that matter signage, often on a dirt road, behind horses and carts, and often goats. This adventure, looked like the biggest bizare you have ever seen (see photos) with everyone lining the streets selling their wares which all seemed to be broken or old and used clothing and goods. These goods mostly come from the UK as items that were ready to be discarded.
Many of us took photos from the bus and what was most interesting was the reaction from the hundreds that lined the streets. Some were trying to sell us goods through the window, others were happy to see us and waved and cheered (mostly the youngsters), others were not so happy to see us (as you can see on some of their faces). The best we could tell is that some of the old-timers did not like being starred at as if they were an attraction or were blaming the current slow status on progress due to the lack of enough support by the US. Most people were happy to see us and understand that US money through tourism makes a big difference to their economy. Tourism growth due to infrastructure and lack of any “official” tour guides (not like our favorite certified guide in NY) is slow here so I understand their apprehension.
Note: Although we got a strong feel for the area but did not get to visit Goree Island like some of our friends who told us about the House of Slaves where slaves were held (over 350 years) as they were waiting to be sold and shipped to the New World . Also very sad and sickening.
Also, on your list should be the Museum of Black Civilization, a $30M museum that opened in 2019 https://www.nytimes.com/2019/01/15/arts/design/…Okumaya devam et
We stopped at the most interesting hospital on the way to the Pink Lake (see photos). First of all, it was a forest, yes that was the hospital. It was full of trees and plants specifically used for medicinal purposes and herbal remedies. They have little huts where they treat patients and they have developed successful herbal remedies for high blood pressure, diabetes, hemorrhoids, morning sickness, skin diseases and liver cancer. WOW!Okumaya devam et
17 photos and 2 videos
Driving through the Niayes greenbelt we get to the Pink Lake (located 22 miles NE of Dakar) which was not pink today and actually has not been since the heavy rains (its rainy season from May to November) in the last few weeks and the washing away of algae that makes the color. It is normally pink because of the high amount of salt that feeds an aquatic microorganism making it’s 40% salt content, more than even the Dead Sea at 35%. They were selling salt and showed us how everything is very salty. There are 3000 workers that work 7 hours a day to accumulate (for export) 38,000 tons of salt per year from this lake! Due to this high salt content, they need to lather themselves in shea butter to protect their skin from this toxic effects.
We went on an 4x4 adventure. The 4x4 needed a little maintenance. Well, that is an understatement since it was falling apart everywhere, with bars that were rusted away and could easily become projectile objects, holes in the floor and the engine that stalled numerous times, leaving us abandoned as the other 4x4 left the area. We took an incredibly bumpy ride to the lake and then the famous sand dunes used for the Amsterdam-Dakar and Paris-Dakar races. It is a 6,214 miles, 10 hour per day, 2 week off-road motorcycle and 4x4 endurance test where it is hard to find your way in the rocky and dangerous sand dunes as indicated by the fact that right from the start, of the 182 vehicles and only 74 finished. Although there have been 28 years of races all with different routes, this location in Dakar has always remained part of the race and its finishing point. Note: You may remember that in 1982 Margaret Thatcher’s son did this race and got lost for 6 days in the dessert. This adventure ended with cleaning up and then eating at a Senegalese lunch at a resort, Keur Salim.Okumaya devam et
Continued photos and 2 videos (see the text in the last post "Pink Lake")
GezginThe lighting was perfect as the pictures before and after them weren’t nearly as good.
20 photos and 2 videos
Lastly, we visited the Kounoune Village where we were welcomed by the village leader and a performance of traditional dances. To say this was an experience is not enough. We were up close and personal with the dancers and people of all ages in this village as evidenced by the photos and Karen’s “close encounters” with the beautiful children in this area.
In the “Land of Teraanga” (a Wolof word that loosely translates to hospitality) welcoming and friendliness is a way of life amongst the Senegalese. The concept of teraanga embraces generosity and sharing material possessions with everyone, even strangers. This ideology built a culture of openness, familiarity, and warmth—one in which everyone, regardless of their differences, is safe and welcome. Teraanga means people are willing to engage with others like they would their own family. Kids are encouraged to approach and trust adults. So, it’s common to see young children unsupervised in town and adults educating and guiding other children as they would their own.
When Senegal gained independence in 1960, teraanga became a way to shape the country’s national identity. It’s especially prevalent in Senegalese food culture. When cooking a meal, the host always prepares an extra plate in case there is an unplanned guest who stops by. The best pieces always go to the guest.Okumaya devam et
Congratulations on the crossing! And speaking of Cape Verde, that’s one of our possible divert locations on our way to/from South Africa. Sounds nice! [Howard & Vanita]
Bruce, many of the fisherman families in New Bedford, MA, trace their heritage to Cape Verde. [Shirley]
GezginInteresting, thx