NY-Prague/Budapest-DC

The first thing we learned is that Budapest, the capital city of Hungary, is really two towns in one. The west side of the Danube is Buda and across the river is Pest. This beautiful city, that attracted 6 million visitors last year to see the architecture, learn the history, eat the goulash and “take a bath” (123 natural springs and some 2 dozen thermal baths), has an interesting past. Its Jewish history includes the Dohany Synagogue, the beautiful Moorish design that our place of worship, Central Synagogue in NYC, was designed after.

In the 19th Century, Budapest grew as the co-capital of the Austro-Hungarian empire (along with Vienna). We learned from our great 5-hour walking tour of Pest, given by Robert, a local that is a history buff who has lived here his entire life and consummate story-teller, the city grew as it was competing with Vienna and was preparing for its 1,000th anniversary in 1896 (or 1895, it’s a story). This made it a city of beautiful buildings, churches, monuments and transportation. We met and first saw and learned about the St Stephens Basilica. We followed the history of the Mongolian and Ottoman empires, the building of the empire that followed, and then what happened during WWI and WWII with their “mis-guided” alliance with the Nazis, the de-Stalinization period, The Hungarian Revolution of 1956 that did not end well, and subsequent Communist occupation. In a strange way, some people who don’t remember what they “did not have during those times” still have “fond memories” of the communist times prior to 1989 when the communists lost power but still individually owned and controlled much of this city which was now open to private enterprise. This has led to Viktor Orbán’s (Prime Minister) very corrupt “illiberal democracy” (hides its nondemocratic practices behind formally democratic institutions and procedures) government. Along with his fights with the EU, and antisemitic, racist and anti-US statements, we were told that most people are sure that he will finally be out at the next election in April 2026.

We learned about the “checkered history” of Hungary, St Stephens and the 1895/1896 celebration, the “Hollywood-like stars” on Zrinyi Street or Hungarian actors and wine makers, and we met the “fat policeman statue” indicating happier times.

We then stopped in front of the Military Jail/Stock Exchange Palace (see photo). This is the place where many movies and TV have been filmed and still utilized by film crews from around the world. Budapest has deep connections with Hollywood.

A bizarre stop was to see Kermit the Frog, and a Hungarian connection as Sesame Street was their primary American show during communist times as well as information about the artist that has these small hidden statues around the city.

Then onto a much-needed rest and warm up stop in at a cute café for coffee and to hear some personal family stories of Robert’s family from the time of the German occupation of Budapest.

One of the more intriguing stories was about Mick Jagger and the Rolling Stones helping change the course of Hungarian history. A Stones Concert in 1990 in Prague was advertised with the slogan "Tanks are rolling out, the Stones rolling in" and began to influence Hungarian youth. In communist Hungary, the Rolling Stones represented a forbidden Western lifestyle, music, and rebellion against state control. Jagger’s flamboyant style and energetic performances resonated with Hungarian youth, offering an escape from drab communist realities and fostering a desire for personal expression. He helped by “subtly” eroding the monolithic state control by exposing Hungarians to alternative values and cultural expressions.

The next stop was Adria Palace which has a statue in front of a ship with a Meduse, representing different nations from different continents and learned more about the communist years as we approached the Memorial to the Soviet Heroes. We passed the U.S. Embassy surrounded by trees and the Ronald Reagan statue in Liberty Square, to block out this controversial Soviet Liberation Monument, to tell a story of post-Cold War democracy and American.

Then we walked over to the monument to the first open air Athletic Championship, a monument to the first open air athletic world championship. We passed by the Horse Riding statue of Count Gyula Andrássy, who helped a great deal in the Austrio-Hungarian reconciliation.

Unfortunately, we weren’t able to get tour tickets for the Hungarian Parliament Building (the largest Parliament in Europe) which is very impressive, so an outside visit had to do. Funny story: In 1986, while Freddie Mercury, lead singer of Queen, was sailing down the Danube and saw this impressive building, asked if such a magnificent building could be purchased.Läs mer