Circumnavigating South America

stycznia 2018 - lipca 2025
  • Ali and Jeff Carithers
obecny
Otwarta przygoda według Ali and Jeff Czytaj więcej
  • Ali and Jeff Carithers
Obecnie podróżuję

Lista krajów

  • Puerto Rico Puerto Rico
  • Barbados Barbados
  • Urugwaj Urugwaj
  • Brazylia Brazylia
  • Argentyna Argentyna
  • Falklandy Falklandy
  • Chili Chili
  • Pokaż wszystko (12)
Kategorie
Brak
  • 25,1kprzejechane kilometry
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  • 38ślady stóp
  • 2 740dni
  • 179zdjęcia
  • 186lubi
  • Iguazu Falls, Argentina/Brazil

    6 lutego 2018, Brazylia ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Iguazu means “big water” and, oh my, it was BIG water!
    We left the ship the morning of the 6th to take the 90 minute flight out of Buenos Aires to Iguazu, Argentina to see the largest complex of waterfalls in the world. We quickly arrived at the Argentinian side of the Falls. There were winding, metal pathways that afforded intimate and close-up interactions with the Falls, including the incredible rumbling under your feet and light mist that rose up from the most powerful Falls. An added bonus to the day were all the beautifully colored butterflies that seemed to be everywhere posing for our cameras.
    The weather was perfect for viewing, even though it was a bit hot and humid. After this very fulfilling experience, we successfully crossed over the border to the Brazilian side of the Falls. I’m making that sound easier than it was since obtaining a Brazilian visa is more than a little difficult. In fact, 2 people in our party had to overnight in Argentina because of those difficulties. So, after a long day, we headed to our hotel, which was located in the Brazilian National Park. Just when I thought I didn’t have another gasp left in me, we arrived to see the last of the setting sun over a panoramic view of the Falls.
    The next morning we took a mile-long hike along paths that led to one jaw-dropping view after another. Since we were staying in the Park, we were able to use the paths before the park officially opened to visitors, so we had almost a private tour.
    We ended our walk by walking out on a bridge that was just above one of the biggest waterfalls and getting spectacularly wet. We were happy that the hotel had some powerful hairdryers so we could dry off a bit before getting back on the plane to return to the ship.
    I could post 100 pictures and still never fully convey the majesty of this sight-I see it every time I close my eyes.
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  • Puerto Madryn, Argentina

    3 lutego 2018, Argentyna ⋅ 🌙 27 °F

    Well, I’m feeling a lot better and ready to participate more fully in our off-the-ship activities! It’s funny, though, the medicinal alcohol consumption was so helpful. And, as Jeff mentioned, having a butler supplying anything you might need certainly softens the fact that you’re not feeling 100%. In addition to whatever I asked for, he always managed to bring “just one more thing” that he was sure would make me feel better. He really is like a mother!
    We had our first stop in Argentina after being told not to wear anything that has “Falkland Islands” on it. 35 years has not wiped away the bad feelings of the conflicts that occurred during the early 80’s. We are still in the Patagonia region of South America.
    Puerto Madryn is a resort town that primarily serves people from Buenos Aires with 3 flights per week. They are quite eco-conscious and have a nice center that explains about how they are protecting their marine life. There are penguins, sea lions and right whales here. In certain areas, you might also see Orca whales. As I mentioned, this is a beach resort, and on this particular Saturday, the beach was packed with people! And so many people swimming in the ocean-I have to say that these are hearty souls because the ocean temperature is 60 degrees!
    The terrain is quite a bit like the desert Southwest in the US. Dry, scrubby plants are indicative of the hot, dry climate here and dust is everywhere. All daily use water is brought in. The descriptions of the snakes and tarantulas caused me some trepidation when stepping out of the bus.
    We visited a sheep farm and, since we are in the land of the “gaucho”, got to see gauchos in both their traditional dress and modern dress. We saw a sheep get sheared, which is a fascinating process that I had never experienced before. With practiced shearing, the wool comes off in one intact piece that was huge and hard to believe it all came off one sheep!
    Tomorrow we are flying inland to see Iguazu Falls on an overnight trip.
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  • Falkland Islands

    1 lutego 2018, Falklandy ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    After passing through the Strait of Magellan we sailed northeast to the Falkland Islands, just missing a storm with 8-12 meter seas. The winds in this part of the world are impressive and this storm exacerbated that tendancy resulting in winds over 110 mph. Locals told us about a couple who was camping during the storm and sought refuge in a shipping container. The strong winds blew the shipping container down a hillside, severely injuring the couple inside. They were evacuated to Santiago, Chile and survived.



    The nearly 800 islands of the archipelago (almost 5000 square miles) have a population of only 3000 people and over a half million sheep. The local economy also relies on fisheries and tourism. The windblown, rolling, semiarid, treeless landscape has a peculiar beauty as you can see on the photo. We toured Stanley, the capital, which has a rustic British feel and the Stanley museum was particularly interesting, with the Falklcands War of 1982 figuring prominently in local history.
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  • Punta Arenas, Chile

    29 stycznia 2018, Chili ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

    There has been a gap in our blog postings because Ali, the chief blog writer, had a bit of an upper respiratory infection and GI problem. This is a serious issue aboard this ship as they quarantine the afflicted individual to the room, wipe down every surface, change all linens daily, and the butler showers you with food, treats, beverages, crudite' and lots of sympathetic attention.



    Meanwhile, Nancy and I (Jim was sick too) went on an excursion from the port city of Punta Arenas, Chile in the Strait of Magellan to the Torres del Paine National Park and saw the most beautiful scenery we have ever seen in our lives, feeling guilty the whole time that our partners were not with us. The stunning views included towering mountains, glaciers, waterfalls, glacial rivers, blue AND green lakes, and gorgeous topography with several hundred guanacos (a wild, larger version of the llama) scattered about. Nancy and I discussed downplaying our experience, but I ended up telling Ali that I will take her back there for a separate trip in the future.
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  • Chilean Fjords

    29 stycznia 2018, South Pacific Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    It is a chilly day (get it? Chilly/Chile) in the fjords. It is spectacular in an austere, pristine way. There is no sign of human habitation anywhere.
    We had a bit of a rough ride here last night ( I believe I levitated off the bed a couple of times) but no complaints. One of the staff told us that on this same passage 2 years ago, they had 26’ waves for 12 days. Hhmmmm..... As I said, no complaints.
    We are flying to the Torres de Paines National Park tomorrow for a big day of sightseeing. Stay tuned.
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  • Puerto Chacabuco, Chile

    25 stycznia 2018, Chili ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    We are visiting a port that lies within the Chilean fjords. It is an almost dream-like area that surrounds us-snow-capped mountains, gorgeous lush green hillsides, the bluest skies and cerulean waters. It is a knock-out 360 degree view. One can’t help but think that maybe this would be a place to spend the winter-a cozy little cabin where you could drop a kayak into the glassy waters every day and commune with this particular kind of nature. This little dream was dancing in our heads for a couple of days, after all, it’s s perfect climate.
    After we walked into this sleepy little village that had the friendliest dogs, a local man, who spoke perfect English, was waiting to help us onto the tender back to the ship. He said, “wow, you are really lucky to be here on such a nice day, you know, it rains 300 days a year here”. And poof, that nice little daydream went right out of our heads.
    We are thoroughly enjoying this part of the trip. The beauty of the surroundings here are simply incredible and it made it easy for us to exercise on the outdoor track this morning. The cool, crisp air should be with us for several more days as we prepare to round the tip of the continent through the Straights of Magellan.
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  • Castro, Chile

    24 stycznia 2018, Chili ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    After a rockin’ and rollin’ passage yesterday, we arrived in Chile’s Lake District and the town of Castro. It is a pleasant town with lots new and old architecture. There are quite a few fish farms in this area. All in all, it was a beautiful day to walk around the city, eat fresh seafood and get ready to head for the Chilean fjords. Hope the water is a little calmer-it’s hard to hold onto my glass of Prosecco! Czytaj więcej

  • Valparaiso, Chile

    22 stycznia 2018, Chili ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Wow. This was a handful. Valparaiso was a plethora of color, mouth-watering food smells, graffiti, noise, litter (no, garbage), the most beautiful fruits and vegetables I’ve ever seen, cold mornings, hot afternoons, dogs (everywhere) and a feeling of a place that has multiple layers of life.
    It has been the home of many artists, poets and writers. It is clearly a place that promotes free expression. There is graffiti everywhere that intermittently transitions to beautiful, colorful murals. There are mosaics imbedded in the thousands of stairs that climb from the waterfront up into the neighborhoods that are filled with candy-colored houses. Walking along, you find many artistic expressions that are totally made of recycled or found objects.
    It is a city that has had it’s share of problems. It is in the earthquake zone, which is evident in some of the older, very elegant buildings that now sport crumbling facades. They also suffered some difficult economic times when the Panama Canal opened and they no longer enjoyed the commerce that being a major port for ships coming around Cape Horn brought.
    Valparaiso is also quite near the Casablanca Valley which is one of Chile’s main wine-producing regions.
    We had the opportunity to visit a couple of wineries and do some wine-tasting. One of the wineries said they produced 1,000,000 bottles a year, yet they are considered a boutique winery. The climate here is somewhere between that of California and France which makes it an ideal place for growing grapes.
    Jeff and I also sampled some very typical Chilean foods. Empanadas with shrimp and cheese, a pie that had beef, chicken, black olives, raisins and a cornbread topping, and something called a “completo”. A completo is a hot dog (?) on a bun that has fresh tomatoes, sauerkraut, mayonnaise and avocado. McDonalds came to Valparaiso, but only lasted a year before moving out. Turns out the people liked both the taste and the price of their completo better.
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  • Chilean highlands

    18 stycznia 2018, Chili ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    It took a little convincing from Jeff, but we took an excursion into the Chilean Highlands yesterday. My hesitation came from the fact that it was a 3 hour ride each way to an elevation of 12,000 feet. Now come on, we’ve all seen those pictures of buses dropping off roads in South America, but I must admit that it was a pretty decent road. That certainly did not take away from the drama of the incredible landscape.
    This area of Chile is just south of the border from Peru and the Bolivian border is just to the east - Chile is skinny like a chili pepper! This region has a population density of 1 person per 30 square kilometers and that includes the city of Arica which is 160,000. In other words, it is pretty desolate. By the way, the second largest town is population 1,000. It is also the second driest populated place on earth at 1/2 millimeter of rain per year-that isn’t even what we would call a trace!
    In 1868, a magnitude 9 earthquake struck the area killing 70,000 people. Between the earthquake and the ensuing 2 tsunami waves (the second one was 90’ high), the city was literally reduced to rubble, the waves then washing everything away, including any remaining foundations.
    We saw some fabulous geoglyths that are about 170’ tall and we’re done between 100BC and 1500AD. There is very little know about why they were done, but they have found around 17,000 of them throughout this region.
    As we were driving into the Andes mountains on a 2 lane road, passing other vehicles in our bus, our guide mentioned that they experience earthquakes here about once per week! It took everything I had not to ask if the last one was yesterday or a week ago.
    We drove through an incredibly dry valley that was followed by a more lush area that looked up at 2 snow-capped dormant Taapaca volcanoes. The town of Putre, founded in 1580, lies in a shallow valley at about here at 12,000’ of elevation. There’s not too much air to breathe here!
    We had a wonderful lunch at the Canta Verde which served Pebre which is the Chilean version of what we would call Pico de Gallo. Jeff enjoyed it more than everyone else and they brought him an additional plate of it! They use it as a condiment for soups, meat and bread. Also, I was searching for a bathroom and was excited to recall my high school Spanish class to say “Donde esta el bano?” What a thrill - I was speaking fluent Spanish!
    We have 2 sea days before arriving in Valparaiso, Chile for some Chilean wine-tasting. Our captain has informed us that the waves are building and there will be some “pitching and groaning” tomorrow. Never a dull moment!
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  • Paracas, Peru

    16 stycznia 2018, Peru ⋅ 🌬 79 °F

    A huge change from yesterday’s visit to Lima! Paracas is a small fishing village that has capitalized on the nearby islands that have a great deal of bird life.
    It is basically a desert with some small populated areas within it. We are just a short distance away from Pisco (Pisco sours are one of our favorite drinks!), which is best remembered for the magnitude 8 earthquake that struck here in 2007 and damaged 80% of the buildings there. The tectonic plates here move 3.1” a year. In fact, there was a magnitude 7.1 earthquake just south of here 2 days ago that was centered 22 miles off shore. There was a brief tsunami alert that was quickly cancelled. There was also an earthquake in the Honduras the day after we were there. Hhmmmm...... We are definitely in the ring of fire!
    It is an interesting juxtaposition of a body of water within a desert setting here. This is our last stop in Peru before we head to Chile tomorrow!
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