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Berlin, Corfu Northern Greece
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    12 мая 2019 г.
    Carol RakicicBerlin, Corfu Northern GreeceПутешественник

    Day 1 Sydney to Berlin

    12 мая 2019 г., Германия ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Quick trip to the airport with Uber John and Udi. Singapore airlines upper deck and upgrade to full exit row to myself was perfect. Scoot in silence from Singapore was fine though their insistence on giving me roast chicken, gravey and potatoes for breakfast with only water or coke was not endearing. Seems coffee was impossible as I did not pre-order it.Читать далее

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  • Carol RakicicBerlin, Corfu Northern GreeceПутешественник

    Day 2 Berlin with jetlag

    13 мая 2019 г., Германия ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Arrived 7:30am in Berlin, tired but as the day went on I became more and more interested in this city. Coffee and scrambled eggs in the sun at a french cafe, then Check Point Charlie, Gendarmenmarkt Concert Hall, french and german doms and then I started to notice the many cafes, bakeries, soup kitchens and organic stores. Sunny and blue skies and max 15degrees but felt warm.
    Went to the Peter Fetcher memorial in my hotel’s street (Zimmerstrasse), the Wall Panorama and Topography of Terror.
    Home dinner.    Читать далее

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  • Carol RakicicBerlin, Corfu Northern GreeceПутешественник
    2

    Day 3 Berlin

    14 мая 2019 г., Германия ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Slept 8 hours last night but only problem was that it was from 7pm till 3am. Had excellent Hotel Select The Wall breakfast at the unheard of hour of 6:30am.
    9am appointment for Reistag glass dome with audio pointing out sights and features of the dome. Then Brandenburg Gate, Hotel Adlon (where Michael Jackson dangled baby off the balcony), memorial to the murdered jews of Europe, Unter den Linden with coffee break at Microsoft Digital Cafe. Then Bebel Platz ( where Nazis burnt the books), tour of every hall in the Koncerthaus (if the sign was in english, who would think the tour would be in german only). Lunch of muligatawny chicken soup at Green Rabbit organic soup and salad cashless restaurant.
    Audio guide of history of german parliament in the German Dom.
    Then the Berlin Wall Museum at Check Point Charlie.    Читать далее

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  • Carol RakicicBerlin, Corfu Northern GreeceПутешественник

    Day 4 Berlin

    15 мая 2019 г., Германия ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Still waking early so 6:30 breakfast in the hotel again. It was the first day of the 3 day museum pass so went over to the Gemeralderie past Potsdammer Platz. Renaissance and middle ages - Lucas Cranach ( esp Fountain of Youth), Durer, Perugino, Lippi, Caneletto etc all the usual suspects. Special exhibition of Bellini and Mantegna comparing their paintings of similar subjects, both from Padua. Then Decorative Arts Museum with dresses from late 1800s. Left cold by the Sony Centre - was largest construction site in Europe in 1990s and Berlin Mall was standard. So had very tasty bratwurst for lunch from stand on corner Wilhelmstrasse/Zimmerstrasse.
    Spy museum in the afternoon was entertaining and informative.
    Chardonnay in Bar Eleven, then home dinner of proscuitto, sauerkraut, kartofflen and tomatoes.    Читать далее

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  • Carol RakicicBerlin, Corfu Northern GreeceПутешественник
    2

    Day 5 Berlin

    16 мая 2019 г., Германия ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Slept in till just after 6 this morning. Take away coffee and grainy seedy roll with the last of the tomatoes and speck.
    It was a rainy half hour walk to my new lodgings at Frederics Hackescher Mkt, then to the impressive Museum Island to Neues Museum for the gold filigree Berlin Hat, famous head of Nefertiti, Xanten bronze. Lunch choices abound round Hackescher Markt area, had excellent salad bowl at mexican Mishba.
    Anne Frank Museum was down graffiti alley and excellent.
    Spot of window shopping, coffee, then Pergammon Museum and Panorama. Islamic Art was impressive and crowded, saw the Ishtar Gate but the star was the market gate of Miletus. There was not much at Miletus, Turkey when i was there, now i know where the remains are. It is the largest piece ever reassembled. 60% is original and it took 6months in 1920s to assemble and it survived WW11 bombing.
    Dinner in german cellar (sausages, sauerkraut (bacon flavoured), potatoes. Interesting chat to local from GDR. Stayed awake to 8pm!    Читать далее

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  • Carol RakicicBerlin, Corfu Northern GreeceПутешественник
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    Day 6 Berlin

    17 мая 2019 г., Германия ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Walked further into the depths of the east to discover friendly bakery and supermarket. “Activ” roll, tomatoes and a white mozarella in my sunny south facing room for breakfast.
    It was opening day of the Gustave Caillebotte exhibit at the Alte National Gallerie and I was the first in, having it to myself. A few choice Monets, Pissaro, Renoirs and only myself and an english couple in the room. A lone Hodler, Segatini, some Max Lieberman’s including funny dog with sausages across his nose. Then sat in Lustgarten in the sunshine, then to Altes Museum for overdose of greek and roman antiquities before excellent salad lunch at Barcomis Deli.
    Afternoon was Deutsche History Museum - yet another fascinating display. Over to east Berlin TV tower in Alexanderplatz - first crazy busy place yet.
    Home dinner of rocket, tomato, salami, hummus and german white wine.    Читать далее

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  • Carol RakicicBerlin, Corfu Northern GreeceПутешественник

    Day 7 Berlin

    18 мая 2019 г., Германия ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Another sunny breakfast coffee in my quiet apartment over looking the tree filled jewish cemetry.
    It was a sunny warm (low 20’s) Saturday and everyone was out enjoying it in trendy Prenzlauerberg. So pleasant it could almost be french - street food market, loads of cafes serving healthy brunch and nice ambience. Had a prosecco and cassis near the Water Tower ( also used by Nazis).
    Before this walked to Brenauerstrasse where those film clips of people jumping out windows across the wall happened as the sides of houses formed part of the wall. It is the only place where the wall setup is still complete with inner wall, death strip, lights and watch tower. Yet another good Documentation Centre with videos, memorabilia and viewing platform.
    Had the famous CurryWurst at Kannopke Imbiss which has been under a railwaybridge for ever and it was actually very good.
    Home dinner of canard saucisson, rucola, tomato, homus and german weis.    Читать далее

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  • Carol RakicicBerlin, Corfu Northern GreeceПутешественник
    2

    Day 8 Berlin

    19 мая 2019 г., Германия ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Change of pace today with Spree River cruise from East Side Gallery to Charlottenberg, authentic snitzel lunch with glass of Sav Blanc billed as best SB in Germany and probably the world in a beer garden beside the river in Charlottenberg. Walked along shady green paths beside river that were surprisingly pleasant.Читать далее

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  • Carol RakicicBerlin, Corfu Northern GreeceПутешественник

    Day 9 Berlin

    20 мая 2019 г., Германия ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Potatoes, sausage and 3 poached eggs at Factory Girls, then the re-constructed old Berlin area (very twee). Afternoon street art tour chiefly in Kreuzberg was fun though the 30 yo made too many Contiki “jokes”. Saw astronaut, pink man, dead animals by rooaarr, a possible banksy and the now blackened wall where the “peeling back” work was but the artist covered it as the block has been sold to developers. We bought beers as proof it is legal to walk the streets drinking - becks lime and mint is first beer I’ve ever been able to drink.
    Very hot in the morning, late arvo thunderstorm and dinner of Haxe at Sophieneck in Gros Hamburgerstrasse.    Читать далее

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  • Carol RakicicBerlin, Corfu Northern GreeceПутешественник

    Day 10 Berlin

    21 мая 2019 г., Греция ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Spent a great day in Potsdam - magnificent palaces galore, goegeous gardens and a nice town with a quaint dutch quarter as well.
    Main attraction is the Schloss SansSouci which was well managed with staggered entry times and helpful audio guide.
    Also went through Bildergalerie (renaissance paintings displayed in hall of yellow and white marble), the Neue Kammern (Red jasper hall and no people), Orangerieschloss (italian palace with all things fake Raphael where had to wear enormous slippers), also tower with views over the gardens and the Chinoiserie. Somewhat tired but walked through the Neue Park to Schloss Cecilienhoff where Stalin, Truman and Churchill basically carved up Germany at the Potsdam Conference after WW11.
    Could have easily spent two days in Potsdam.    Читать далее

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  • Carol RakicicBerlin, Corfu Northern GreeceПутешественник
    The Corfu CaveThe galatouboureko shop

    Day 11 Berlin to Corfu

    22 мая 2019 г., Греция ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    From a drizzly morning in Berlin to brilliant sunshine and the blue-est ocean in Corfu! And the people are so much more friendly and relaxed.
    Easyjet was smoothe, sat next to the only german extroverts in berlin who said his Australian boss said he had a laugh like an australian native bird. And he did just like a kookaburra.
    Corfu town looked gorgeous so walked round the bay viewing the old fort and the new fort, through the venetian Liston Square, then hit the tourist shops and started to get a bit disallusioned in the search for an authentic ouzo stop.
    Then i stumbled on the Mikro Cafe with outside tables stretching up some steps with a decent greek crowd which was perfect.
    Stuck up conversation with greek (via NY) and italian couple living in Milan. Unbelievably his son owns a B&B in Lecce and a few months ago i booked 3 nights at the very B&B for Sept! Micro cosmos !
    They come to Corfu every year so showed me the best galataboureko shop (also home made risogala) which had been there since 1945. Apparently they usually have a mound of butter on the counter.
    Got terribly lost getting home as i had left in daylight and hadnt got my online maps sorted... anyway back now.    Читать далее

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  • Carol RakicicBerlin, Corfu Northern GreeceПутешественник

    Day 12 Corfu

    23 мая 2019 г., Греция ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Greeks invented the word chaos - the main square in Corfu town where the buses stop defines the word.
    Bought a spanakopita and bougatsa from Thessalonikas Bakery as recommended by Angie and Giorgio then found the island buses leave from a further 15min walk away. Made it to Paleokastritsa with beautiful sandy beach coves and stunning aqua coloured water. Walked to the monastary, then baked and swum. It must be shockingly crowded in high season.
    Not really into the “cave” that I am staying in - the feng shui is all wrong. So spending minimal time there, going out for pre dinner ouzo in Mikro Cafe again.
    Got annoyed at the touristy eating options so had tarama, bread and gigantes.    Читать далее

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  • Carol RakicicBerlin, Corfu Northern GreeceПутешественник
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    Day 13 Corfu

    24 мая 2019 г., Греция ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Fun day even though the cruise ships were in. Bought 2 excellent small spanakopitas and walked early up to the new fort and the old fort for spectacular views over the town and sea. Decided against bus to Sidari as likely to be as touristy as Paleokastritsa yesterday and I really have not spent much time in Corfu town.
    Walked south to the windmill for an excellent swim off the rocks. Met the local swimmers who are 365 day a year-ers and retired Olympic Airline stewards. Then stopped for what was to be a light lunch and have never tipped nearly 100% of the bill before. Ordered ouzo and fried zucchinis for 6euros total and was also given tzatziki, olives, orange cake, yoghurt and strawberries -Taverna Alexakis will get a good tripadvisor rating from me.
    On the way back I had an afternoon swim just off the corner of where i am staying and was entertained by italian boys being too afraid of the cold water to swim but trying to impress the girls who were already in.
    Angie and Giorgio invited me to their air bnb for ouzo aperitivo so popped downtown and bought a selection of fancy chocolates to take. Just as well as of course aperitivo of course with greek/italians turned into dinner - very pleasant on the steps of the Byzantine Museum with uninterrupted sea and sunset views. Angie’s 90 yo mother Toula joined us - a very fiesty woman who had a strange fixation with Israel and calling us snowmen as we were wrapped in cosy blankets.    Читать далее

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  • Carol RakicicBerlin, Corfu Northern GreeceПутешественник
    1Did not expect distant snow
    11Good job for child - distill ouzo into small bottlesMushroom, potato cheese pie1Salad with greens "from the sea"1Its kale ioannina

    Day 14 Corfu to Ioannina

    25 мая 2019 г., Греция ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    I was glad to leave the cave behind though only scratched the surface of Corfu. It took me the 3 days to work out how not to get lost in the old town - it was a surprisingly big town and with a car the island must have a lot to offer.
    Early start with 8:15 bus from the Green Bus Terminal. Had to buy bus and ferry ticket at bus station but yet they stop at the port for some to get out and buy the ferry ticket. Ferry was uneventful, found the bus again and got stuck with crazy woman who looked terrified the bus would crash, then Ktel at its finest dumped me 5 km out of Ioannina. Lovely greek girl from bus appeared with taxi going to the bus station I was expecting and she offered me a lift - saved!!
    Ioannina bus station was savage - crowded as it is election day tomorrow and many people have to return to their home town to vote. Bought a ticket for Monday and was not thinking much of Ioannina till i reached Its Kale Hotel in the walls of the old castle - mountains with snow in the distance. Half an hour wait for room but they gave me coffee, apple pie, water, wifi and information - does not happen that way in Berlin!
    Great lunch of mushroom, potato, cheese bake and first retsina at the most crowded taverna in the main shopping street. And complimentary salad with unusual greens “from the sea”.
    Dinner at Serios recommended by hotel was ordinary grilled chicken, large bowl of horta and 1/4 kilo white wine.    Читать далее

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  • Carol RakicicBerlin, Corfu Northern GreeceПутешественник
    11Me with Ali Pasha's 700 year old plane tree

    Day 15 Ioannina

    26 мая 2019 г., Греция ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Ioannina is famous for pies and breakfast at Its Kale Hotel was an excellent example - chicken pie, cheese pie, spinach pie, bougatsa plus cooked to order omelette, rice pudding, meats, cheese, coffee and juice.
    Took the 15min ferry to Nisi Island - extremely peaceful with amazing frescoes in one of the monasteries and hideous live eels from the lake in tanks in tavernas. Ali Pasha museum also.
    Took 5 euro taxi to the impressive Perama Cave. Us 3 english speakers were herded to the front with the majority of the group behind, Guide did both languages. Penny (who went to Beacon Hill High) and Bob drove me back to town and we had a drink at a taverna on the lake.    Читать далее

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  • Carol RakicicBerlin, Corfu Northern GreeceПутешественник

    Day 16 Ioannina to Kalambaka

    27 мая 2019 г., Греция ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    After a quick breakfast at the lovely Its Kale the rain forced me to take a taxi to the bus station. The EU funded Egnatia Highway has cut tunnels through the Pindos Ranges so it was just over a 2 hour trip via Metsovo (Greece’s ski resort) to Kalambaka. Room not ready so walked to the neighbouring village of Kastraki to the foot of the boulders and the new geological museum. This area used to be a river delta, so rocks are conglomerate. River drained away, some seismic activity and erosion and here we are. The first monastry was built in 1350.
    Luckily the sky cleared in time for the Sunset Tour which also included the 11th century cathedral built on and using stones from the temple of apollo.
    Dinner was in the main square in Pantellino Tavern - roast lamb, briam and aspro krassi. Slept well !    Читать далее

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  • Carol RakicicBerlin, Corfu Northern GreeceПутешественник
    12

    Day 17 Meteora

    28 мая 2019 г., Греция ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Five hour hiking tour from 8:30 this morning was very good despite two loud canadians from Montreal (their french sounds really odd). Also chatty gay Portugese guys, girl from SFO and delightful chinese family with two daughters from Georgia US. Oh didnt mention the fat Australian woman who tripped and hurt her knee - easy to do on the uneven ground but a five hour hike was always going to be ambitious for her.
    So we walked through oak forests, lots of up and downs, great views, to a restored but uninhabited monastry and ending at Varlaam monastry. Midway on a flat rock with views they handed round excellent walnut and fig slices apparently made in a factory in Athens but tasted very home made and a nice touch.
    Once back in Kalambaka after 2:30 I finally got my first coffee for the day, then back to Totis Rooms, then out for an ouzo before back to same taverna as last night for 1/4kg white wine for 2euro ( thats nearly 3 glasses for $3) from Giogio my friendly greek waiter. Tried the “chicken in the oven”    Читать далее

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  • Carol RakicicBerlin, Corfu Northern GreeceПутешественник

    Day 18 Kalambaka - Thessaloniki

    29 мая 2019 г., Греция ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Two trains to get to Thessaloniki but what a sensory impact this city has !
    Very byzantine feel, chaotic but get off the main Via Egnatia and its quiet but interesting.
    The Blue Bottle Hotel staff were lovely - free cappuccino, croissant and water for 20 mins while room cleaning was being finished.
    Explored down to the main square onto waterfront and into the street markets. Cafes galore, sweet shops galore.
    Joined the “free” walking tour of the upper town (ano poli) at 6pm meeting at Profit Ilias. Giorgos was a great talker and historian and musican but he didnt really show much. Nevertheless the Profit Ilias was great (why did he not even mention it?) and we walked to the acropolus of the town which i wouldnt have done for great views. Past the church of St David with amazing mosaic as evidenced by the picture he showed us (poor marketing to me). He played us two rembetika songs on bouzouki also. Noted some street signs show distance, minutes to walk and calaries you will burn.
    Long walk home so dinner at Extravaganza - pea risotto with greek rose and yum Samos vin doux.    Читать далее

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  • Carol RakicicBerlin, Corfu Northern GreeceПутешественник
    All the goats heading to the beach

    Day 19 Thessaloniki to Nikiti

    30 мая 2019 г., Греция ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    Nikiti is as expected Little Moscow and/or Bulgaria so my plan was to walk 6kms to the nicer but less touristed beach of Vourvouras. The plan failed as after a few kms the road went through the seaside village of Kastri which felt like a nuclear bomb had zapped everyone. There were villas, domatia, houses but no sign of any life until a yappy white guard poodle ran round the inside of a fence. Next was a track over the headland which felt like gypsy territory so back to Kastri for a quick swim - water was delightful, then started to stride back until a herd of 100+ goats (many with nasty looking horns) blocked the road out..... nothing to do but wait. Ute came along going my direction which parted them so I snuck through on his wake.
    So had a couple of swims at Nikiti main beach, even buying tzatziki to get use of a beach lounge as the sand was scrappy.
    Had dinner at Marina Hotel where I’m staying - nice grilled octopus, horta and retsina.    Читать далее

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  • Carol RakicicBerlin, Corfu Northern GreeceПутешественник
    Probably should have had an ouzo here

    Day 20 Nikiti

    31 мая 2019 г., Греция ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Weather was a bit cloudy and the forecast not great so I had breakfast omelette, toast and jam and nasty filter coffee in the hotel. Lucky Friday is market day in Nikiti back up on the main road. It was rather impressive - vege stalls of course (cherries predominated but also strawbs, apricots and hard peaches), wine stalls, ouzo, olive stalls and loads of italian beachy clothes. Photo shows vine leaves to wrap dolmades, ouzo, wine and samphire grass.
    Sat on beach but darkish clouds came across so found “Plaisir” cafe with modern street front but traditional look greek bakery and sweets out the back. Here I had my first nespresso cappucino in Greece with nice sweet and water, being both the best and the cheapest cappo in Greece at 2.30euro.
    After some rain i walked up to old Nikiti which was really peaceful with just a couple of bars - one i probably should have visited.
    Very nice steamed mussels at hotel.    Читать далее

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  • Carol RakicicBerlin, Corfu Northern GreeceПутешественник

    Day 21 Nikiti

    1 июня 2019 г., Греция ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    I’m just not into Nikiti - I’ve given it a chance but this is the first time I can recall I am leaving the coast early. 8:30am bus tomorrow morning back for an extra day in Thessaloniki. Feel bad that I will not see Mount Athos but the thought of a whole day with the eastern bloc on a boat is not a good one. I would have done this trip earlier but it only goes on a Sunday and sadly my patience level has steadily declined each day.
    Easy beach day today with nice swimming. Gyros and mythos beer with lemon for lunch, then more swimming.
    Home dinner of ouzo, olives, tomatoes and dolmades.
    Nikiti is both too crowded and too deserted. The main area is noisy and busy but get out of the main area and it feels very uncomfortably empty.    Читать далее

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  • Carol RakicicBerlin, Corfu Northern GreeceПутешественник

    Day 22 Escape from Nikiti

    2 июня 2019 г., Греция ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Apart from ktel bus being the usual half an hour late turning up, the trip was easy.
    The Blue Bottle Hotel staff are so nice - welcome cappuccino, croissant and a chat. So had such a nice day except for some limping due to smashing my toe at Nikiti - but it didn’t stop my steps, just slowed then.
    Great day exploring the town despite shops being closed on Sundays so things a bit quieter. Saw the roman agora then the ceiling mosaiced rotunda. Roman built with a minaret later added. Next a thunderstorm hit and Via Egnatia, the main street could not cope at all - completely flooded so that I could not cross the road.
    Stopped for a gyros then onto the White Tower. Bought the 5 museum pass - I am so enjoying museums this trip - go as slow or fast as i wish! Nice view from the top and good audio on the history of the city.
    Waterfront was busy with everyone having afternoon frappes, ouzis etc in the sun. An hour later and another thunderstorm.
    Rested and researched at BlueBottle, then dinner at E Kanoula - so good, lamb, cous cous and apricots ( tasted morocan). Really were it not for google one would not eat in a narrow graffitied street but so glad i did !
    So far only 3 things have changed in Greece since circa 2003 and all are restaurant related :
    1, olive oil is no longer on the tables
    2. if you order retsina the waiter will question whether you are really sure
    3. A complimentary dessert is given - orange syrup cake tonight.    Читать далее

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  • Carol RakicicBerlin, Corfu Northern GreeceПутешественник
    1Street selling old ware - but this one didnt do "window displays"25th century mosaic - can you see the eye !!1

    Day 23 Thessaloniki

    3 июня 2019 г., Греция ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Fun day visiting 4 churches, 2 museums and had my nails done.
    Enjoyed Blue Bottle breakfast of spanakopita, bougatsa, boiled egg, yoghurt and berries and good cappo.
    Agios Demetrious (roman remains underneath), Profit Ilias, Agia Sophia but standout was St Davids with 5th century mosaic looking like an eye!
    Enjoyed the hilly graffiti streets of Ano Poli, look a bit dodgey but perfectly safe. Then spontaneously got nailed for 8 euro.
    Archaelogy museum was unchanged from last visit - gold jewellery, diadems and Diverni crater.
    Lunched at back of white tower at Middle East with excellent falafel, homous and tabouli for 3euro with random english woman who has convinced me to go to Crete.
    Back to the Byzantine museum - good but too much information.
    Dinner again at same place as last night - octopus with fava beans ( i thought it was avacado) and complimentary dessert of stringy baklava base topped with cream.
    Great stay in Thess - 3 days was perfect. Athens tomorrow !    Читать далее

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  • Carol RakicicBerlin, Corfu Northern GreeceПутешественник

    Day 24 Thessaloniki to Athens

    4 июня 2019 г., Греция ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Pleasant 4 hour trip in first class with two paramedics from Hobart (doing the self guided Vikos Gorge walk) and a couple from Thessaloniki going for holiday to Hydra and Spetses. Apparently my favourite wrinkled black olives are called Halkidiki olives.
    Getting a taxi from Larissa Train Station for one is not possible. The drivers would walk the queue, select unrelated people going to similar destinations and charge the total fare three times ! Everyone was a local but eventually I was allowed to join two men going to Omonia. Driver then took me for a ride even knowing i was watching my phone so presumably GPS. I pulled him up and then got to Monastiraki quickly.
    Bed in Athens is really nice inside with modern bathroom (without bucket), big window with flyscreen overlooking derelict block but quiet. The Psirri neighbourhood was the new trendy up and coming area last time i was in Athens circa 2003 and has only built on that with cafes, bars, restaurants galore.
    Found the Mavro Gatos round the corner and as i only had Total yoghurt for breakfast treated myself to kolokothakes keftedes with mint yoghurt (zucchini fritters) and 1/4 kilo white wine for a 3pm lunch.
    Walked round the neighbourhood, up crazy, busy Ermou and round till dinner back at Mavro Gatos. They had Spicy Cheese which i had never seen on a greek menu before! I had eggplant starter and chicken, peppers and mustard sauce - ok but not brilliant.
    Slept well.    Читать далее

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