Puglia, Sicily via Barcelona

September 2019 Read more

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September 4, 2019
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Day 1
Wednesday, September 4, 2019
⛅ 29 °C
Altitude: 16 m
Singapore Queen Elizabeth Walk 1.294175, 103.8548281°17’39” N 103°51’17” E
Sydney to Singapore
September 4, 2019 in Singapore ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C
Stayed overnight at Pam’s and had a speedy uber at 4:45am for the flight with both Pams and Howard to Singapore.
Enjoyed an afternoon swim at Hotel Fort Canning pool, then queued for a AUD45 Singapore Sling and shell peanuts at the newly renovated Raffles Hotel Long Bar.
Dinner at Makansutra - carrot cake, chards, prawn vege gyozas and satays and watched the light show over Marina Bay Sands.Read more
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Day 2
Thursday, September 5, 2019
⛅ 26 °C
Altitude: 35 m
Spain Universitat de Barcelona 41.389099, 2.161141°23’21” N 2°9’40” E
A Day in Singapore
September 5, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
Nespresso in the room, followed by Fort Canning breakfast with the highlights being papaya, goats cheese, eggs benedict, crispy bacon and coffee. Another swim in our warm pool, then excellent one hour tour of Battlebox just steps away from the hotel.
Gardens by the Bay were great - very inspiring lush tropical plants, orchids of all types. Cassis and tangerine cocktail at Cafe Fennell surrounded by fragrant herbs, raddish, spinach.
Walked in 32 degrees heat and humidity to Marina Bay Sands. The height was easier to deal with during the day so was reasonably relaxed with another Singapore Sling.
Back in time for the hotel wine and canape hour, then chicken rice in the hotel.
Taxi to airport for what was a reasonably easy 13 hour flight to Barcelona.Read more
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Day 3
Friday, September 6, 2019
☀️ 24 °C
Altitude: 22 m
Spain el Born 41.383991, 2.18288841°23’2” N 2°10’58” E
Jetlag in Barcelona
September 6, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
Coffee at Cafe El Born with Pam and Howatd then I checked into Music VII apartment at Carer Mere des Alts 21.
Then back to Pam and Howard at the cafe, picked up mascapone croissants from Hoffmans and checked them into Espateria.
Walked round El Born to Santa Maria del Mar, Via Montcada and Palau de Musica Catalan.
John and Udi arrived at 5pm, had a red wine in the apartment, then dinner at the galician Bar Celto Pulperia. Soft octopus, padron peppers, chorizo, morcilla (black sausage) and white wine drunk in small white bowls.Read more
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Day 4
Saturday, September 7, 2019
☀️ 18 °C
Altitude: 1,182 m
Spain Sant Jeroni 41.605373, 1.81144241°36’19” N 1°48’41” E
Daytrip to Montserrat
September 7, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
We hiked to Sant Jeroni the highest point at 1,237 metres which I missed last year. It was a big day but was perfect hiking weather at 24 degrees and sunny. My IPhone said we climbed 153 flights of stairs.
We ate dinner at Nou Kellar - pushy chinese waiter but food was ok. Morcilla, padron peppers, veal cheek with pear, sausage and white beans and a black paella.Read more
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Day 5
Sunday, September 8, 2019
☀️ 24 °C
Altitude: 28 m
Spain Dàrsena del Comerç 41.381252, 2.18148741°22’53” N 2°10’53” E
Hike to Montjuic
September 8, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
Sunday morning was quiet in El Born with even Santa Caterina market closed.
We walked over to the cathedral, Las Ramblas where Udi’s credit card was eaten by an ATM, then we walked through the indian/pakistani area and up Montjuic. We looked down on cruise ships, Colon de Colombus, vast dock areas and had sweeping views of the city.
Dinner was with Pam and Howard back in the local Galician place of our first night.Read more
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Day 6
Monday, September 9, 2019
⛅ 23 °C
Altitude: 26 m
Spain Plaza Catalunya 41.387993, 2.17607341°23’17” N 2°10’34” E
Barcelonetta
September 9, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
Enjoying these breakfasts of cortado, bocadillio and oj at Bou Cafe at Santa Caterina. then we walked down to Santa Maria del Mar. Udi and I went on to Barcelonetta. The three of us had an excellent late lunch in El Born and empanada takeaway for dinner.Read more
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Day 7
Tuesday, September 10, 2019
🌧 18 °C
Altitude: 12 m
Spain Parc de Diagonal-Mar 41.404874, 2.21174141°24’18” N 2°12’42” E
Last Day in Barcelona - Colonia Guell
September 10, 2019 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 18 °C
Enjoyed the best breakfast at Santa Caterina of cortado, tomato bread and proscuitto tortilla.
Unfortunately it was our last day and also raining but nevertheless we went out into the suburbs to Gaudi’s crypt/ church. Certainly a lesser known Gaudi site but the information centre was excellent and it was certainly worth seeing. The town was a Guell owned textile town where the workers were housed also. All the buildings were built in red exposed brick with architectural interest added with contrasting directions and placement of the bricks.
The crypt/church itself in true Gaudi tradition was not finished but included many of the design features he was known for - contrasting direction of bricks, diffent angles and rock, mosaics, sloping mis-aligned columns and stained glass.
Had lunch back at Restaurant d’Andrew - red peppers stuffed with bacalau mornay, steak and mash, chocolate pudding and the worst wine wine I have ever encountered that tasted like perfume.
Bought empanadas for the airport and left early given warning of a an ongoing airport security strike. Things got worse from here as I got through by 7pm but flights were delayed due to the bad weather. This meant a 1:15am departure (10:30 scheduled), a complimentary visit to the VIP lounge coutesy of 28degrees and arrival at my airport hotel at Fiumicino at 3:30am.Read more
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Day 8
Wednesday, September 11, 2019
⛅ 20 °C
Altitude: 6 m
Italy Roca Vecchia 40.288532, 18.42542140°17’19” N 18°25’32” E
Torre dell Orso
September 11, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
Enjoyed almost 4 hours sleep at my airport hotel - best laid plans, then a one hour flight from Rome to Brindisi on Alitalia.
This part was easy, as was the pre- booked shuttle to Torre dell Orso. Rain poured down during the drive but cleared quickly so I walked to the Grotta del Poesia. Swimming in this natural rock pool is a “bucket list” experience - very warm and clear water. The roman ruins at San Rocca were impressive for the extra dimension they added to s great swimming experience.
Loved sword fish (spada) and green beans from friendly Viola’s for dinner and gelato from Dentoni 1euro a scoop.Read more
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Day 9
Thursday, September 12, 2019 at 9:38 AM
☀️ 24 °C
Altitude: 4 m
Italy Torre dell'Orso 40.274506, 18.42966340°16’28” N 18°25’47” E
Torre dell Orso
September 12, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
Had an early walk to the Grotta del Poesia to see it without the crowds, then a lavish breakfast courtesy of my B&B at the cliff top Hotel Belvedere.
Walked south along the cliffs to Sant Andrea with dramatic eroded rock formations and had a warm swim in the bay there and another late afternoon in small surf on beach below Dentonis.
Had aperitivo at local bar and swordfish again at Violas.Read more
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Day 10
Friday, September 13, 2019 at 5:00 PM
☀️ 26 °C
Altitude: 20 m
Italy Chiesa San Pietro 40.145412, 18.49248140°8’43” N 18°29’33” E
Torre dell Orso to Otranto
September 13, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
Today was a busy day with a lot of variety and walking. Full buffet breakfast again then easy on-time bus to Otranto.
Dumped luggage and walked along the coast to Baia del Orte. Strong northerly winds had whipped up a good swell and surf. Even saw several board riders later in the afternoon. It was a hard walk using rough paths and sadly there was too much swell to swim. Went inland to the very red Cava di Bauxite filled with very green water and walked home quickly using the road.

After a stop at the ordinary B&B, I walked north and managed a swim from the beach, then fig and almond and coconut gelato for a late lunch.
Then finally some culture. The cathedral floor showed the tree of life with the trunk leading down to the altar, featuring Alexander the Great. A side chapel holds the bones of 800 Otranto people massacred by the turks in 1480. The downstairs crypt was a sea of columns.
Then to the Byzantine Church of St Peter which was built on the highest point of Otranto at the beginning of 10th century when the turks occupied the town.
Ordinary dinner choice on the castle walls.Read more
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Day 11
Saturday, September 14, 2019 at 12:39 PM
☀️ 26 °C
Altitude: 72 m
Italy Cape Otranto 40.10804, 18.51822140°6’29” N 18°31’6” E
Otranto - Santa Cesare Therme
September 14, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
A difficult nights sleep at B&B Lilium with traffic that shook the balcony window glass forcing me to wear and turn on my active noise cancelling ear phones.
It was a shame as Roberta and Antonio were lovely (though in need of B&B101 training as rule one must be do not leave previous mornings dirty breakfast plates etc on the main table). Roberta is a teacher at Santa Cesare Terme so drove me there and back today and detoured to the lighthouse at the most easterly point in Italy Faro Palascio. The coastline is littered with ruined towers from the days of watching for the attacking Turks. I walked to the gorgeous cove of Spiaggia di Miggiano - deep, clear water with plenty of fish. Above this cove was a resort with several infinity pools which actually looked great also. Then passed the old bath house built in early 1900 in the moorish style.
Said goodbye to Roberta and family and I then checked into the gorgeous Palazzo Marzo less than 200 yards away but uphill in a calm area.
Had had a panini at Santa Cesare (proscuitto crudo and white mozzarella) so sat out the hottest middle of the day, then had a divine cafe and coconut gelato for lunch from Martinucci before walking north as far as Canal Monaco. Still too much swell up there but it would be gorgeous on another day. Swum in the shallows at the north end of the main beach. Water temp must be 26 and air temp a hot feeling 28.
Had a good sausage and chicoria pizza and red wine for dinner.Read more
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Day 12
Sunday, September 15, 2019
☀️ 25 °C
Altitude: 19 m
Italy Chiesa San Pietro 40.145531, 18.49186340°8’44” N 18°29’31” E
Last day Otranto
September 15, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
You can tell the time in Italy by the smells in the air. Morning has wafts of croissants and pastries and dinner time it changes to capsicums.
Breakfast at peaceful Palazzo Marzo was sweetness in the extreme, making me dizzy half an hour later on my tough walk. It was slow progress walking along cliffs with paths through low scrub, alongside eroded cliffs and through narrow tunnels of that pampas grass like plant. Canal of St Peter was gorgeous swimming in deep water but as no shade and too great a distance between access point and place to leave my backpack meant I pushed onwards ending above the gorgeous beach at Mulino d’Acqua. I stood precariously above it with no way to access. Amazing how promise of a pristine swim can obviate my fear of heights. The camping ground was charging 10euro to access their pool but the authorities have closed the beach due to rockslide but if you *choose* to go there they will not know about it !
Couldn't face doing the same return one hour trip due to the difficult terrain so took the local road which came out near Lido de Spina. Swum there and lay in the shade, then walked the only sea/rock part and actually slipped over. Only a couple of grazes on the right wrist but bit of a fright as it was so quick and could have been nasty.
Came out near Hotel Plancia and had nicest swim all day so far.
To stay out of the mid day sun decided on the cliff top ViaPunta7 for italian tapas and a calice of chardonnay. After 5mins a dozen tradies from the film festival took a table which is always a good sign of hearty food.
It was excellent - big tapas bowl of mussels in tomato, oil and garlic, fava bean puree with chickory and a chardonnay. And all with sea and city views for 15euro ( included 5euro wine and 2euro cover).
The mare was calmest it has been so had the best swim just before the lighthouse in clear deep water as two italian women fished to the left.
Aperitivo on the cliff overlooking old town and castle and then prawn orchiette with english/NJ acapuncturist Linda Covelli. We shared travel stories and laughs over italian town name pronunciations.
Buona noche.Read more
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Day 12
Sunday, September 15, 2019
☀️ 25 °C
Altitude: 20 m
Italy Castello di Otranto 40.143898, 18.49116740°8’38” N 18°29’28” E
Day 12 Otranto continued
September 15, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Gorgeous coastal scenery in Puglia.
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Day 13
Monday, September 16, 2019 at 6:39 PM
☀️ 24 °C
Altitude: 56 m
Italy Colonna Sant'Oronzo 40.35289, 18.17298340°21’10” N 18°10’23” E
Otranto to Lecce
September 16, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
Fig and yoghurt for breakfast while speaking french to Chloe and her husband from Warsaw.
Once again bus service worked well except for the nutter passenger who insisted I sit in my allocated Seat 3 despite bus being largely empty. He took exception to my bag but with tables in the bus it was difficult to manoevre round. A young dutch guy found the situation amusing also.
Easy walk to Casa Q B&B owned by Antonio Quarta and nice room also. Explored the pristine baroque streets around the Duomo, the magnificent Santa Croce and other churches. Had lunch of polpette (pastry in shape of chicken) and lemon granita with english girls from Southhampton. Then to the private Museo Faggiano. So refreshing as I met the father who bought the house to set up a trattoria for his sons but a humidity problem led him to dig for the sewerage pipes but instead he discovered layer upon layer of roman history.
Back to Alvino to try an Amare from Salento. Noticing a lot of brightly clothed africans in the streets and also as waiters.Read more
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Day 14
Tuesday, September 17, 2019 at 2:04 PM
☀️ 27 °C
Altitude: 411 m
Italy Trulli District 40.78281, 17.23683940°46’58” N 17°14’13” E
Valle d'Itria
September 17, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
No breakfast at Casa Q but self serve nespresso, yoghurt and cornflakes.
First stop on the day tour was a beautiful though hot, crowded and surprisingly large Polignano a Mare.
Then Alberobello which as expected was extremely touristy but worth seeing over a thousand trulli with mortar free pointy roofs.
Very hot and humid but enjoyed a fresca panini of proscuitto, white mozzarella and pomodore and then an esspresso on ice.Read more
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Day 14
Tuesday, September 17, 2019 at 3:05 PM
☀️ 27 °C
Altitude: 411 m
Italy Locorotondo 40.752705, 17.32860840°45’10” N 17°19’43” E
Valle d'Itria Part2
September 17, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
Next stop was Locorotondo in the sleepy early afternoon. There were panoramic views over the surrounds, and buildings were white washed and cute.
Final stop was the very baroque Ostuni with the cathedral at the top again surrounded by white washed streets. The main square was vast and rounded and worthy of more time.
Back in Lecce for a puglian amare and eggplant pomodore pasta and veges at Prendici Gusto.Read more
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Day 15
Wednesday, September 18, 2019 at 1:15 PM
⛅ 27 °C
Altitude: 14 m
Italy Spiaggia la Puritate 40.054798, 17.97347140°3’17” N 17°58’24” E
Gallipoli
September 18, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
Early bus with me and the brightly clothed African and Pakistani beach sellers who loaded their sheets full of handbags and beach towels into the luggage.
Walked the Lungomare for gorgeous swim, then back down and on to the island. The old town was the same as the others in recent days but the town beach stunned me. Turquoise water, still as a mill pond
Trattoria Scoglio delle Sirene zuppe de cozze with complimentary hot chilli oil
Funny their menu called lobster the cicada of the seaRead more
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Day 16
Thursday, September 19, 2019
⛅ 20 °C
Altitude: 15 m
Italy Castle of Charles V 40.953617, 17.30495140°57’13” N 17°18’18” E
Monopoli
September 19, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
One hour train trip to Monopoli where I had a much craved for bacon and scrambled egg pucce and tasty espresso with almond milk syrup. Then a thunderstorm closed in so got marooned inside the interesting bar with books, glass floor over kegs and roman ruins.Read more
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Day 17
Friday, September 20, 2019 at 1:08 PM
⛅ 20 °C
Altitude: 18 m
Italy Saint Angel's Church 40.952793, 17.30246740°57’10” N 17°18’9” E
Monopoli to Matera
September 20, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
Another egg and bacon roll, amble round town then swordfish (spada) and caprese salad at Locanda dei Mercanti before catching the bus to Matera via Bari Airport, port and centrale. A long convuluted walk from bus fermata to Le Dodici Lune including dozens of steps.
Even before the incredible sassi landscape the town had some noteable architecture.
Drained after a long day and no energy to get lost again, I went to nearby PanneCotto for excellent bruscetta and rocket, local soup snd una calice
Rosso de San Vito.Read more
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Day 18
Saturday, September 21, 2019
☀️ 20 °C
Altitude: 384 m
Italy Zona Paip 40.676529, 16.5886140°40’36” N 16°35’19” E
Matera
September 21, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
My cave at Le Dodeci Lune was cute and italian sweet breakfast included salami and cheese. Explored the sassi area and the baroque churches, then over to Murgia for the sunset town in italian. Saw the set for Mel Gibson The Passion of Christ and remnants of cave frescos which the guide shone torches on as we scrambled over rocks in the dark. The three other english speakers were costume crew working on the new James Bond film being shot in Matera and coastal Sapri. Caprese salad and soup again and met bike riding canadians.Read more
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Day 19
Sunday, September 22, 2019 at 9:05 PM
⛅ 23 °C
Altitude: 21 m
Italy Piazza Sedile di Porta Nova 40.676418, 14.76557240°40’35” N 14°45’56” E
Matera to Salerno
September 22, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
Had a rare english tour of the underground cistern this morning and met Penny and Meredith from Melbourne. Then to Casa Noha for interesting film on history of Matera - from neolithic settlements established due to spring water and easy defence to prosperity during the Renaissance and decline in 19th century even blamed on the Australian wool industry. Carlo Levi turned wider attention to the poverty of the cave dwellers in 1950’s till government forcibly moved everyone out. Abandonned till 1990’s before being transformed and becoming the 2019 European Capital of Culture.
Found the short way to the Duomo which would have saved many steps but this town is so hard to navigate due to the three dimensional aspect.
Shared antipasto platter with Melbourne girls then late bus through farmland and more rocks to Salerno.
Easy dinner of sausage and broccoli pizza. The broccoli has an intense flavour but looks like broccoli leaves and is much nicer than the flowery stuff we have.Read more
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Day 20
Monday, September 23, 2019 at 9:14 AM
⛅ 22 °C
Altitude: 12 m
Italy Chiesa di San Giorgio 40.67815, 14.75871740°40’41” N 14°45’31” E
Salerno and Paestum
September 23, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
Cappuccino and sweet pastry in a cafe on the lungomare then the magnificent duomo. Helped some old lost Tennesse folk from a cruise ship find it so they lit a candle for me. Duomo was full of mosaics and the crypt was heavily frescoed. In the very lowest level are the roman ruins of the original temple. Saw the medieval aqueduct, then train to Paestum. Three ancient greek temples on a flat plain with steep rocky cliffs behind surrounded by pommegranite and fruit/ vege farms. Uniquely you are still able to walk into two of these temples. Met a real Australian archaeologist working at Taquinia.
Train back through farmland with acres of plastic greenhouses round Montecortine.Read more
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Day 21
Tuesday, September 24, 2019 at 11:14 AM
⛅ 22 °C
Altitude: 343 m
Italy Panorama Costiera Amalfitana 40.649174, 14.613540°38’57” N 14°36’49” E
Daytrip to Amalfi and Positano
September 24, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
Despite seeing many photos the real thing still makes a big impression.
Highlights were the view from VillaCimbone in Ravello, Amalfi cathedral and the overall beauty if the sheer cliffs with vineyards, lemon and pommegranite.
Lovely seafood pasta in a jar at Mama Rosa back in Salerno.Read more
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Day 22
Wednesday, September 25, 2019
⛅ 24 °C
Altitude: Sea level
Italy Spiaggia di Tropea 38.68623, 15.89685438°41’10” N 15°53’49” E
Salerno to Tropea
September 25, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
Once again the italian public transport worked well and I arrived mid afternoon in Tropea. Passed many hill top ruined castles, fields of melons and small vegetable farms. Calabria has a more raw rustic and remote feel and the people are darker skinned and speak little english.
Had a gelato ( not the salami one or the Tropea onion one), admired the view of Santa Maria dell’Isola.Read more
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Day 23
Thursday, September 26, 2019
⛅ 24 °C
Altitude: 6 m
Italy Spiaggia Di Riaci 38.673985, 15.8747838°40’26” N 15°52’29” E
Capo Vaticano
September 26, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
Really enjoyable 3 hour trip in big rubber ducky round Capo Vaticano with numerous swim stops.
No english spoken but watching fat german men having to wear life jackets to go swimming, then wondering why they could not dive down was priceless entertainment.Read more
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