Charlotte Birch

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Grateful early retiree and 2023 pilgrim Leggi altro North Bethesda, Maryland

Viaggiatore Camino Frances
- Mostra viaggio
- Aggiungi alla lista dei desideriRimuovi dalla lista dei desideri
- Condividi
- 5 ott 2023, 16:25
- ☀️ 81 °F
- Altitudine: 1.939 ft
- Spagna Castilla y León Molinaseca 42.537304, -6.519642°32’14” N 6°31’11” W
2
Giorno 29–30
Molinaseca
5 ottobre 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F
A fabulous day, and one of our hardest, too!

Left at *dawn* (8:50 am) and the sun rose as we walked up the mountains. Clear skies and temps that climbed quickly from 50 to upper 70's. Stopped an hour in for breakfast then kept going till we reached the highest point of the whole trip (5,000 feet above sea level). On our way, we stopped at the Camino icon Cruz de Ferro, where pilgrims leave rocks or other items signifying the reason for their pilgrimage.

Up was relatively easy. Down was the hard part. A town halfway down the mountain was super charming--we spent an hour+ there to *let the dogs out* (go barefoot ) and refuel with freshly made spinach, feta and pesto crepes and our trusty Radlers! Then more rocky downhill hiking that made us especially thankful for dry weather and hiking poles.

Glad to be back in towns made of stone and wood (instead of clay) and surrounded by mountains. So, so pretty.Leggi altro
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Viaggiatore You want to stop eating beef because there are cows in a meadow?
05/10/23RispostaTradurre
Viaggiatore There is a longer story, and I'm half kidding. But we thought we saw a cow being led to slaughter and all the cows were mooing loudly. We came up with a different narrative that made us feel better!
05/10/23RispostaTradurre
Viaggiatore Ahhh, I see! Maybe it was just going to be milked...
05/10/23RispostaTradurre
5 mi piace
Viaggiatore Camino Frances
- Mostra viaggio
- Aggiungi alla lista dei desideriRimuovi dalla lista dei desideri
- Condividi
- 4 ott 2023, 13:30
- ☀️ 68 °F
- Altitudine: 3.829 ft
- Spagna Castilla y León Santa Colomba de Somoza Rabanal del Camino 42.482304, -6.28642°28’56” N 6°17’10” W
Giorno 28–29
A gradual climb to Rabanal
4 ottobre 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F
A beautiful day up gentle mountains to a quiet, charming village called Rabanal del Camino. Upon arriving, we resisted the urge to check in and instead sat at a recommended cafe and had a good, one-course meal that hit the spot.

There is a Benedictine monastery run by Germans here that offers a 2-night silent retreat, complete with Gregorian chants, vespers and compline. We aren't staying there but thought it was cool enough to mention in case anyone is planning their own Camino.

Had a classic regional dish for dinner--Cocido Maragato. Joe and Leo would have loved it. A lot of slow-cooked meats (plus cabbage and chick peas). A bit too much for us but very tasty and glad we tried it.

Tomorrow is a big day, when we climb to the highest point of our route and then (the hardest part), descend steeply to Molinaseca. Excited for the view we will earn!Leggi altro
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Viaggiatore This monastery sounds inviting
04/10/23RispostaTradurre
4 mi piace
Viaggiatore Camino Frances
- Mostra viaggio
- Aggiungi alla lista dei desideriRimuovi dalla lista dei desideri
- Condividi
- 3 ott 2023, 14:47
- ⛅ 73 °F
- Altitudine: 2.867 ft
- Spagna Castilla y León Astorga 42.457744, -6.05588242°27’28” N 6°3’21” W
Giorno 27
New Scenery + Astorga
3 ottobre 2023, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F
Ahhh, a welcome change of scenery and a beautiful, sunny day to boot.

Didn’t take a lot of pics myself because my phone is on the fritz. In fact, I’m using MB’s phone to post this and will be relying on her photos going forward. Just hoping my phone can give me five minutes a day until I land at IAD.

I think we walked about 15 miles, mostly through gentle hills, farms and woodland. Plenty of towns to stop in en route, including Orbigo, with with “one of the longest and best preserved, medieval bridges in Spain, dating from the 13th century,” according to our guidebook.

Staying tonight in a small city called Astorga, which boasts several churches, a cathedral and a Gaudi building known as the Bishop’s Palace, which is just beautiful--one of our favorite sites so far. Astorga is also the start of an area associated with the Maragato culture, which we will learn more about as we walk.

Had a lovely b-day meal on the town’s main plaza with MB and Brian (Maine). Excited for the mountains tomorrow!Leggi altro
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Viaggiatore Happy Birthday
03/10/23RispostaTradurre
Viaggiatore Happy birthday! Beautiful day - sorry to hear your phone is misbehaving... 🥺
03/10/23RispostaTradurre
Viaggiatore Happy happy birthday! So excited to see your adventures! You have had unbelievable experiences! 🎂😘
03/10/23RispostaTradurre
Viaggiatore Happy Birthday!!! We miss you, & can’t wait to be sitting with you having a brew at BabyCat & hearing all about it!🥳
04/10/23RispostaTradurre
6 mi piace
Viaggiatore Camino Frances
- Mostra viaggio
- Aggiungi alla lista dei desideriRimuovi dalla lista dei desideri
- Condividi
- 2 ott 2023, 17:55
- ☀️ 84 °F
- Altitudine: 2.848 ft
- Spagna Castilla y León Santa Marina del Rey San Martín del Camino 42.497481, -5.80377842°29’51” N 5°48’14” W
Giorno 26–27
Nothin' Special Day
2 ottobre 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F
Welp, this was certainly the most unphotogenic, uninteresting walk of the trip. Left Leon and walked an hour through an industrial area and suburbs, then more Meseta along a busy highway till we got to our hotel. Roughly 15 miles total.

We are staying in another place that is half hotel, half hostal, which exposes you to more pilgrims--a good thing. Lovely backyard with pool and a great breeze blowing.

Reconnected with Brian from Maine (we dined with him in Sahagun and have seen him other places), and we are sure to see more familiar faces tomorrow night in Astorga. Looking forward to that and to more interesting scenery (and more mountains, soon!) as we leave the Meseta behind us.Leggi altro
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5 mi piace
Viaggiatore Camino Frances
- Mostra viaggio
- Aggiungi alla lista dei desideriRimuovi dalla lista dei desideri
- Condividi
- 1 ott 2023, 11:45
- ☀️ 73 °F
- Altitudine: 2.762 ft
- Spagna León Casa Botines 42.598153, -5.57068942°35’53” N 5°34’14” W
Giorno 25–27
Leon, Day 2
1 ottobre 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F
Toured the Leon Cathedral today and it really is stunning in its scale and amount of detail. It has nearly 1,800 square meters of stained glass windows.

As we stepped out into the cloisters, people were gathering for Las Cantaderas, a traditional ceremony celebrating the end to a mythical practice whereby the Asturian kings annually gave 100 maidens to the Muslim caliphs as payment for something. (Not sure what--I think the tradition is essentially based on ancient disinformation!) This is part of the weekend's whole Fiesta de San Froilan, which had the streets packed yet again today with crowds, processions of ginormous flags and a fair number of bagpipes. (BTW, were you aware of the Celtic/Iberian connection? I wasn't but it's a thing--look it up!)

We popped into a couple other must-sees, minus the tours: the Basilica of San Isidoro, and Casa Boutines by Gaudi. Then we escaped the crowds by snagging a table at Casa Daniel the minute it opened and enjoyed a wonderful, relaxing and filling lunch. It's hard not to eat a lot when lunch and dinner are three-course meals. Good thing we will be walking it off on tomorrow's 15-mile hike to San Martin del Camino.Leggi altro
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Viaggiatore Happy Birthday. Hope you have a wonder-full day. I love getting your reports. We miss you. Love, Kathryn
03/10/23RispostaTradurre
Viaggiatore Thank you. And thank you again for the travel passport/money holder. It has been an essential and excellent accessory!!
04/10/23RispostaTradurre
5 mi piace
Viaggiatore Camino Frances
- Mostra viaggio
- Aggiungi alla lista dei desideriRimuovi dalla lista dei desideri
- Condividi
- 30 set 2023, 12:30
- ☀️ 75 °F
- Altitudine: 2.802 ft
- Spagna León Basílica de San Isidoro 42.601256, -5.57135342°36’5” N 5°34’17” W
Giorno 24–26
Leon
30 settembre 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F
Ah, finally--we are someplace we get to stay for two nights! And it is a beautiful hotel (also a converted monastery)! Could never get a room this luxurious in a city in US for this little ($135/night, split two ways).

Walked four hours with just a 20-minute stop. Learned when we got here that yet another festival will be underway tomorrow. We saw a procession tonight and large swathes of people passing by our restaurant where we had dinner, but we haven't figured out what the festival is about.

Looking forward to seeing the Leon cathedral on the inside tomorrow.Leggi altro
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5 mi piace
Viaggiatore Camino Frances
- Mostra viaggio
- Aggiungi alla lista dei desideriRimuovi dalla lista dei desideri
- Condividi
- 29 set 2023, 12:30
- ☀️ 72 °F
- Altitudine: 2.621 ft
- Spagna Castilla y León Mansilla de las Mulas 42.499161, -5.41666142°29’57” N 5°24’60” W
Giorno 23–24
Mansilla de las Mullas
29 settembre 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F
Hola, familiares y amigos. Today was just like yesterday as far as distance, views and weather goes.

Enjoyed seeing some active bodegas (wine cellars built into hillside) as we passed through Reliegos. Arrived in Mansilla in time to check in, enjoy some tapas with Monika (from San Fran) and Barbara (from Nova Scotia) before heading to a three-course lunch at our own hotel: 1) Fried asparagus wrapped in ham; 2) chicken fajita; 3) Greek yogurt with honey and pecans. Still can't get used to the idea that they set a bottle of wine at your table to drink as much or little as you want. All-included price was 15 Euro.

Eating at 3 is really perfect. It's lunch and dinner in one and you don't have to go to sleep on a full stomach. Help me remember this when I get home!

We are excited to get to Leon tomorrow for our first two-night stay. Will look for an outfitter store to fix or replace one of my walking poles that randomly broke today and otherwise to restock, refuel and relax.Leggi altro
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Viaggiatore Love seeing the pictures and the narrative. It reminds me of some of my own travels . I think of you every day and eagerly wait for your news. Love, Kathryn
30/09/23RispostaTradurre
5 mi piace
Viaggiatore Camino Frances
- Mostra viaggio
- Aggiungi alla lista dei desideriRimuovi dalla lista dei desideri
- Condividi
- 28 set 2023, 13:45
- ☀️ 73 °F
- Altitudine: 2.851 ft
- Spagna Castilla y León Burgo Ranero, El El Burgo Ranero 42.417286, -5.21590342°25’2” N 5°12’57” W
1
Giorno 22–23
The truck stop stage
28 settembre 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F
Not many pics. Roadside walking was more of the same yet still very pleasant since it was low 70s, with a clear blue sky and a light breeze.

One stop along the way was a very large, clean, friendly albergue, where we saw the ladies from Scotland, a guy who has harnessed a golf bag carrier to his hips in order to transport his pack, and an ambulance take away a pilgrim in some kind of distress.

If we were homesick for the US, tonight might have cured us. We are staying just outside a small town (El Burgo Ranero) at a motel attached to a truck stop with a 24-hour diner on the first floor. Very American vibe. Nice to be able to order up a hearty burger and chips at 3 pm. The town itself is small and plain, with adobe-style clay and brick homes and buildings.

Ran into Laguna Beach guy again. His name is John. Biking the Camino for the 4th time but following the same stages as walkers to savor things, and also to keep pace with a friend who is jogging the stages as training for a marathon. I'd say most people we meet are doing the Camino for the combination of physical challenge and communal hospitality. Not as many seeking salvation or indulgences😄, but definitely a few working through some grief.Leggi altro
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Viaggiatore Nice! I can imagine the burger!
28/09/23RispostaTradurre
4 mi piace
Viaggiatore Camino Frances
- Mostra viaggio
- Aggiungi alla lista dei desideriRimuovi dalla lista dei desideri
- Condividi
- 27 set 2023, 12:30
- ☁️ 70 °F
- Altitudine: 2.697 ft
- Spagna Castilla y León Sahagún 42.368108, -5.03296742°22’5” N 5°1’59” W
Giorno 21–22
Sahagun
27 settembre 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F
Short day (about 10 miles), ending on the early side in Sahagun.

Highlights: We hit the half-way mark (geographically) of the Camino Frances. An old Franciscan monastery, now museum, offers half-way compostelas for those who visit, so naturally we paid the entrance fee.

In an earlier town (San Nicolas), we happened upon an artist of sorts who offered colorful wax stamps in lieu of the usual ink stamp for our pilgrim passports. So, we have two lovely souvenirs from an otherwise uneventful day.

Enjoyed lunch with Debra and her friend Patty (from Dallas) and officially met another familiar face--Brian, from Portland, Maine, who we will likely see tomorrow as we are both staying at the same place, a hotel near a truck stop!Leggi altro
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Viaggiatore Before I scrolled, I looked at the map and wondered - halfway? Indeed - congratulations! A lot of miles behind you! And a body that now thinks a 13-mile day is short.
27/09/23RispostaTradurre
Viaggiatore Halfway!! Woo Hoo!! 🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻
28/09/23RispostaTradurre
5 mi piace
Viaggiatore Camino Frances
- Mostra viaggio
- Aggiungi alla lista dei desideriRimuovi dalla lista dei desideri
- Condividi
- 26 set 2023, 13:30
- ☀️ 73 °F
- Altitudine: 2.703 ft
- Spagna Castilla y León Carrión de los Condes Monasterio De San Zoilo 42.340147, -4.61073142°20’25” N 4°36’39” W
Giorno 20–21
Walk to Ledigos
26 settembre 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F
Not much to post. Long stretch of roadside paths with farmland in every direction. Apparently we can expect this for a few more days, which is why some people wish they could skip the Meseta.

A shorter day, too (14 miles), with just one stop before arriving at our hotel/albergue, where we had a big pizza for lunch, did laundry and are now just hanging. Met a couple different people from the DMV and re-encountered Debra from Dallas, whose husband had to fly home for his father's funeral and will rejoin her in a week or so

The past couple restaurants we've been to have had cats that come up to your table and beg like a dog.

Wish I had a pic of a pilgrim who just passed. She is walking the opposite direction doing the Jerusalem Way, from Finisterre to Jerusalem. Just looked it up--it leads "from the end of the world over the heart of Europe to the beginning to Jerusalem to the east, towards sunrise and connects 15 countries and the continents of Europe and Asia with the Holy Land." Length: around 7,500 kilometers. Longest peace and culture path in the world

She had her dog with her who was carrying his own food and water bottle. Just can't begin to imagine that experience. But she sure was happy and unconcerned to be walking at 6 pm. Wow.Leggi altro
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Viaggiatore Wow is right! I can't imagine a situation where I want to walk from Spain to Israel...
26/09/23RispostaTradurre
Viaggiatore Better now than never. We are not getting any younger and winds of war are blowing everywhere.
27/09/23RispostaTradurre
Viaggiatore Great experience Charlotte! I am glad you are doing it and documenting the trip here for us to live vicariously through you.
27/09/23RispostaTradurre
4 mi piace

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