Charlotte Birch | FindPenguins

Camino Frances 旅行者
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日14–15
2023年9月20日 15:00〜2023年9月21日
1泊
☁️ 75 °F
海抜: 2,165 フィート
スペイン Grañón 42.451928, -3.00142242°27’7” N 3°0’5” W
1
Belorado
2023年9月20日〜21日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F
Today's walk (14-ish miles) involved a couple more small towns, always centered around a church, with a restaurant/bar conveniently located across the plaza from it. The churches pictured today include one in the town where Santo Domingo was baptized. (He's a big deal because after being rejected by the Benedictines twice, he went on to build infrastructure in service to pilgrims.) The same baptismal font is still used today. The other church, with a similarly ornate altar, is here in Belorado, where one can leave a written prayer intention, as MB did.

Lots of fields (with more sad sunflowers) straddling a highway today, with a very windy stretch at the end. Also crossed over from La Rioja into Castilla y Leon.

We may have to stop taking pics of churches as they are all starting to look alike. But we are definitely taking pics of the better casas and rooms where we stay. Tonight's is so charming and pretty. Unless there is a fireworks show right outside our hotel after we turn in, as happened last night, we should sleep well. I'm beat.

BTW, Google Translate (and Google Lens, for menus) are excellent companions, as fewer people speak English in the towns we are now walking through.もっと詳しく
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旅行者What sort of temperatures are you seeing?
2023/09/20返信する翻訳する
旅行者Mornings start in upper 50s or 60s, and the days are in the 70s. Not much shade today so the breeze/wind gusts helped keep us cool.
2023/09/20返信する翻訳する
旅行者BTW, there seem to be plenty of people biking the camino
2023/09/20返信する翻訳する
旅行者Interesting-self-supplied? No organization you can see? Guess they bring their bikes into their rooms.
2023/09/20返信する翻訳する
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4いいね
Camino Frances 旅行者
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日13
2023年9月19日火曜日 15:30
⛅ 73 °F
海抜: 2,139 フィート
スペイン Catedral de Santo Domingo de La Calzada 42.441617, -2.95315342°26’30” N 2°57’11” W
1
Stage 9: Najera to Santo Domingo
2023年9月19日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F
An easy-breezy walk today--13 miles, gentle hills, wide paths/farm roads. Clear sunny day and little shade so we were plenty sweaty by the end.

You know you're walking in the right direction (west) in the morning when you see your shadow.

We skipped a formal breakfast and stopped first for an orange juice in Azofra and then for a sandwich at a golf club (!) in Ciruena, a sad ghost town where rows of apartment buildings have sat empty and uncared for, presumably since the housing bubble burst in 2008. Felt like a sci-fi movie set. Not sure how the golf club stays in business, except perhaps by welcoming pilgrims to its restaurant.

Met local kitties and more pilgrims along the way, including a woman architect from France who speaks five languages, is very involved in a Catholic social services organization and will be having an audience with the Pope on her way home to Paris next week. Feeling like I've got some work to do!

We passed a few fields of dead/dying sunflowers. Not sure what that's about. One theory suggests it's an economic opportunity since the Ukraine/Russia war began. Apparently that is where most of Europe's sunflower seed oil comes from. Have no idea if that's true. Someone please research it and let me know!

Apart from that I'm not sure what to say about San Domingo. It's a lovely town. Honestly they're all starting to look alike. Didn't go into the cathedral because we were too cheap to pay the admission fee. And besides, we've seen some pretty beautiful churches already. Now we're off to get us a proper dinner.もっと詳しく
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旅行者 😍😍
2023/09/20返信する
4いいね
Camino Frances 旅行者
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日12–13
2023年9月18日 19:52〜2023年9月19日
1泊
⛅ 68 °F
海抜: 1,621 フィート
スペイン Arroyo de Pozuelo 42.419622, -2.73393142°25’11” N 2°44’2” W
1
Logrono to Najera
2023年9月18日〜19日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F
Well, first a confession: I'm just now emerging from a cranky, hangry phase. That, combined with the fact that Najera is just not as well preserved or charming, has colored my view of this stage. It was long (18 miles). It was vineyards as far as the eye could see, which is lovely but somewhat monotonous (I know, Camino hell!). And we had no pilgrims walking with us because many of our new friends had scheduled rest days in Logrono.

Our midday break was in a charming town called Navarrete (pop. 2,900), where we did as in Spain and partook of a small Radler to speed us on our way. A 16th century Church of the Assumption there was stunningly ornate. Its wooden floors had me wondering why they dared have real votive candles (in addition to electric ones).

We walked three hours from there through Rioja country. Finally re-encountered the Belgian couple who has stayed at many of the same hotels as us and got their names: Bruno and Marie Martin. Also snapped a pic of our Italian friend (who speaks no English), Rogelio.

After arriving very tired and hungry in Najera, we found our accommodations somewhat lacking, the town somewhat ghost-y, and where there was action there was no real food. Hence the hangry spell. Found something to tide us over then picked up pre-packaged cano de lomo (more cured pork) and cheese and fruit for our breakfast and headed back to the *penthouse apartment* that is not anywhere near as nice as it sounds. Two plusses: the hosts provided a free bottle of local wine (variety unknown as they private-labelled it, but plenty decent), and it has a rooftop terrace with a view of the cliffs that are a backdrop of the town.

Crankiness aside, we remain grateful for the chance to see how differently people live--and maybe by the end of the trip we, too, will enjoy four-hour lunches and dinners that don't start till 8 pm!もっと詳しく
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旅行者 Wow
2023/09/18返信する
旅行者My sweet mommy, please have a snack!
2023/09/18返信する翻訳する
旅行者It seems like 4 hour lunches have a lot to do with 2 things: good conversation partners and the desire and ability to nap.
2023/09/18返信する翻訳する
旅行者Hangry no fun…but there was wine, so…
2023/09/18返信する翻訳する
5いいね
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日11
2023年9月17日日曜日 15:20
☁️ 72 °F
海抜: 1,535 フィート
スペイン Bargota 42.5338, -2.32008142°32’2” N 2°19’12” W
1
Walk to Logrono
2023年9月17日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F
Today's long walk was not as interesting as the two evenings that flanked it. After posting last night we went down for dinner and learned that there was a festival going on outside our tiny hotel. The festival involved a boy's handball game, the cutting down of a tree, and some homemade sausages which a local shared with us. That was a big deal in a town of 49 and it was wonderful to see.

When we arrived in Lograno today, the first day of its annual wine festival was underway. Huge crowds, and as we enjoyed tapas, a parade of drum line bands. Really fun to watch.

In between those two events was a 17-mile walk that included vineyards, olive groves and a lunch stop in Viana just as church let out. We are now in the Rioja region and the wine is not only delicious but ridiculously affordable. We had two wines and two tortillas (dinner) for 6 euro (less than $7)!

A couple other funky pitstops are pictured, including a stand where a woman carries on a Family tradition selling food and trinkets and offers a pilgrim stamp that says Figs, Water and Love.

We saw fewer pilgrims en route but still managed to run into familiar faces once in the big city (despite the crowds!). Also met Robert and Lenora from Seattle, who have done several pilgrimages here and elsewhere (like Japan) and had a quicker pace than us despite being well into their 70s.

One final note: the doors in these medieval cities are so beautiful. Wish I had started taking pics of them sooner. I now want a door with a knob in the middle, and maybe a sliding, have-fun-storming-the-castle-type slot on top!もっと詳しく
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旅行者 New door for Casa Birch!
2023/09/17返信する翻訳する
6いいね
Camino Frances 旅行者
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日10
2023年9月16日土曜日 12:30
☁️ 70 °F
海抜: 1,512 フィート
スペイン Los Arcos 42.569131, -2.19252242°34’9” N 2°11’33” W
1
Stage 6: to Los Arcos
2023年9月16日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F
We had a bit of a head start today because our hotel was on the way out of Estella. We walked with our two new friends, Gail and David, whom you'll see in the photos but probably wouldn't guess is 75 and has walked about a dozen Camino routes.

The first notable landmark of today's stage is the Fuente del Vino, where the Bodega Irache offers pilgrims a free shell-full of wine for the route ahead. Alas, the tap didn't open till 8 a.m. so we settled for our water.

We then opted for the less traveled route today, which went through woods and fields and had more modest climbs. We caught breakfast (either the usual potato and egg tortilla or an omelette on a slice of grainy bread) in Luquin at 10 am-ish, where we noted that the trio of Spaniards who always seem to pass us, whistling and humming as they speed past, had fortified themselves with beer and wine. So now we know their secret! Other encounters today included an Australian couple with a 10-month old. The baby either rides on his dad's back or in a sack on mom as she breastfeeds, which she's had to do hourly!

We arrived in Los Arcos at lunchtime and appreciated the receiving line of goats, chickens and geese that greeted us. Lots of pilgrims gathered at Plaza Santa Maria, just outside the incredibly ornate 12th century church that anchors the town. Our crew enjoyed a *Radler*, which is a refreshing combo of beer and lemonade, and traded contact info as we parted ways. Strange to feel sad saying goodbye to people you have only known 24 hours but you get to know them well in such a short, quality period of time.

Our hotel is another beautiful rustic house and we have enjoyed just resting in our room while waiting for dinner at 7. It's far enough from the Camino that the owner had to pick us up by the plaza and will deliver us back tomorrow after breakfast. Tomorrow will be a long 17-mile day to Logrono (another reason we said goodbye to Gail and David, both of whom are stopping short of there for their next stays). But the time passes quickly as we meet and talk to so many great people.もっと詳しく
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旅行者 That organ!! Impressive!
2023/09/16返信する翻訳する
旅行者Good luck with the long day tomorrow! How are your feet holding up? When is a break day?
2023/09/16返信する翻訳する
旅行者Better shoes today so feet weren't as sore. I learned it has to do with the (heel) drop. We are sitting outside our hotel right now with a bunch of parents and grandparents watching a kids handball game.
2023/09/16返信する翻訳する
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3いいね
Camino Frances 旅行者
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日9
2023年9月15日金曜日 14:30
☁️ 73 °F
海抜: 1,529 フィート
スペイン Cirauqui 42.675914, -1.88935842°40’33” N 1°53’22” W
To Estella
2023年9月15日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F
There was more to Puenta la Reina than we realized but had to make do with seeing it on our way out of town. MB and I enjoyed walking most of today's stage chatting with the aforementioned Nancy from L.A., and we continued to run into other familiar faces (like Patty and Sue from Canada). We were so chatty we missed a turn but a kind Italian pilgrim got our attention and redirected us.

The day's walk went through fields and vineyards and was fairly gentle. Still, after 14+ miles to Estella--then another mile to our hotel--my feet were really aching and we were drenched from sweat and rain and bordering on hangry. As usual, by the time we cleaned up and sat down at the restaurant adjoining our hotel, the kitchen was closed, not to reopen till 8:30 pm!

Two other pilgrims staying here were in the same boat so we teamed up with Gayle (Raleigh) and David (somewhere near Leeds) and taxied down to the bottom of town to eat at Bar Le Monde. All was fabulous till we learned there were no taxis to take us home. But hey--what's another mile uphill in sandals?

One highlight: our hotel offered to do our laundry for us. One lowlight: the dryers here don't really do the job. So we've turned every corner of our room into a drying rack hoping we wont have to pack damp clothes in the morning.

Estella is not quite as picturesque--larger and more modern. That + rain = fewer pics.もっと詳しく
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旅行者Ohhhh, good imagery with the wet clothing, tired feet in sandals, and being wet and hangry.... let us know if the clothes dry!
2023/09/15返信する翻訳する
5いいね
Camino Frances 旅行者
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日8
2023年9月14日木曜日 14:30
☀️ 73 °F
海抜: 2,457 フィート
スペイン Zariquiegui 42.735708, -1.74282242°44’9” N 1°44’34” W
Pamplona to Puenta la Reina
2023年9月14日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F
Day 4 and I'm already taking some views for granted. But that's okay as I'm enjoying more of the random conversations with other pilgrims. Nancy from L.A., who's married with three kids, one of whom will join her in Leon; Katrina, a fifth grade teacher from Brisbane who is traveling solo; tonight's bartender, who relocated from Madrid after visiting Hotel Jakue on his Camino last year, and Robert from London, who is grieving his girlfriend of 20 years who died in 2022. Lots of people and stories.

The 15-mile walk itself was rigorous, out of the city and up the mountain where the windmills and pilgrim statues--along with a love/peace/coffee bus run by a couple who only aim to recoup their costs--are, then down a rocky slope and through small towns. We were soooo ready for the finish line. Saw an inviting refuge (aka outdoor bar) when we got to the outskirts of town and were so excited to learn it was actually part of our hotel for the night! It is also an albergue/hostal, so it's been a good place to see and talk to other pilgrims (the Sercotel in Pamplona, not so much!).もっと詳しく
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7いいね
Camino Frances 旅行者
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日7
2023年9月13日水曜日 8:28
⛅ 59 °F
海抜: 1,512 フィート
スペイン Plaza del Castillo 42.816347, -1.64151442°48’59” N 1°38’29” W
1
1 2 1
Walk to Pamplona
2023年9月13日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F
A little bit of everything today, including wooded paths along the river, inclines out in the open, cafes for pilgrims, and of course the streets of Pamplona, beginning with the ancient Puenta de Magdalena.

All the right parts of us were either full or empty when we started out (😉), which helped us make good time. Got a little cocky thinking we had shaved an hour off the walk and then realized we had only arrived at essentially a suburb of Pamplona and had another hour to go. Still, we got to the city in time for the back end of the lunch scene. I resisted getting yet another jamon y queso, opting for other pintxos (tapas, in Basque) instead.

It's hard to want to walk around a hilly city when you've spent 13 mi on your feet to get there but we saw a few key sites, got our pilgrim stamp and enjoyed *una copa de vino tinto, por favor* at Ernest Hemingway's hang. Apparently, our tiny hotel room overlooks the street where the bulls run, so we're glad to see it but not be here when that happens!もっと詳しく
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旅行者Keep it coming Charlotte! I feel like I'm there with you - great photos and on point description. Hope your body starts to adjust to its new walking -all-the-time status!
2023/09/13返信する翻訳する
旅行者 Serenity path
2023/09/13返信する翻訳する
旅行者 Look at that S Car Go
2023/09/13返信する翻訳する
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8いいね
Camino Frances 旅行者
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日6
2023年9月12日火曜日 14:30
⛅ 72 °F
海抜: 1,759 フィート
スペイン Zubiri 42.929969, -1.50277542°55’48” N 1°30’10” W
Walk to Zubiri
2023年9月12日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F
14 miles (ish) today, with ascents and descents that were not nearly as steep but still hard because our muscles were a bit tired. A foggy start through charming towns, with plenty of farm animals (and farm poop) en route. Lots of paths through woods which meant fewer vistas but welcome shade. A cafe at the midpoint had an interesting blend of pilgrims and locals, some of whom were enjoying wine at 11 am!

Zubiri is small but has all the necessities (unlike Roncesvalles, which was a monastery converted to rooms and restaurants). Our hotel, Casa Txantxorena, is an ultra-charming Navarrese mountain home from the 17th century. Our room is where the animals used to stay-pretty nice digs for a cow! Met Belgians, Israelis, Canadians, Australians today, many in it just for the hiking and back-to-basics life.

Grateful that some of the locals speak English as I can't seem to muster a full sentence in Spanish without pulling out my Google Translate app. Soy una tonta monolingüe Americana!もっと詳しく
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旅行者Love this!!! So dreamy!! 🤩❤️
2023/09/12返信する翻訳する
旅行者That horse, those digs…. Feels like another time and world!
2023/09/12返信する翻訳する
旅行者These photos are awesome!
2023/09/12返信する翻訳する
旅行者amazing
2023/09/14返信する翻訳する
7いいね
Camino Frances 旅行者
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日5
2023年9月11日月曜日 16:00
⛅ 73 °F
海抜: 3,159 フィート
スペイン Roncesvalles 43.010804, -1.319143°0’39” N 1°19’9” W
Over the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles
2023年9月11日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F
Holy moly-quite a trek! Left at 8 am and encountered our steepest climbs, and rain/thunder, early on so happy to get those challenges under our belt. Rainbows in the first couple hours boded well for our climb. Got coffee and breakfast at an auberge (like a tiny ski lodge) about 7 miles and 2,300 feet elevation in. Total climb today was 4,757 feet spread over 16 miles, and every elevation was rewarded with spectacular views--majestic mountains speckled with cows, sheep, horses, all wearing cowbells--that were all the more special because we arrived on our own two feet. Other highlights: zero noise pollution; friendly co-pilgrims; and sweating so much we only had to use nature's bathroom once. :) Arrived Roncesvalles @ 4 pm to a hotel that's a converted monastery. Great dinner and now expect to sleep soundly!もっと詳しく
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旅行者CONGRATULATIONS!!
2023/09/11返信する翻訳する
旅行者I am very proud of you two, that was quite a challenge.
2023/09/11返信する翻訳する
Sounds like an amazing hike so far! Congrats on the very steep climb ⛰️🌈 [Stefanie]
2023/09/12返信する翻訳する
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7いいね
Camino Frances 旅行者
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日4
2023年9月10日日曜日 15:03
☁️ 84 °F
海抜: 636 フィート
フランス Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port 43.163456, -1.235743°9’48” N 1°14’9” W
St. Jean Pied de Port
2023年9月10日, フランス ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F
Took a quick taxi to Bayonne then boarded a train for our launch point. Very scenic route, which even some four-legged passengers appreciated. Toodled around St. Jean (tres pittoresque, with some interesting shops and vending machines), checked in with the Pilgrim office to get our first stamp and walked up to the 16th century citadel and around its ramparts for some great views of the town and mountains. Had a Basque Burger (aka bacon cheeseburger) and sangria at a restaurant where we met a few other pilgrims while waiting for the hotel's check-in time. Then had another glass of wine while waiting for the A/C in our room to catch up to the near-90-degree heat -- a final pampering before tomorrow's vigorous hike over the Pyrenees!もっと詳しく
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旅行者First stamp! Have a great first hike tomorrow!!
2023/09/10返信する翻訳する
旅行者Have a safe trip tomorrow!!!
2023/09/10返信する翻訳する
旅行者Adventure awaits. XO
2023/09/14返信する翻訳する
6いいね
Camino Frances 旅行者
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日3
2023年9月9日土曜日 9:27
☀️ 72 °F
海抜: 118 フィート
フランス Le Baccara 43.4813, -1.55856443°28’53” N 1°33’31” W
Biarritz, Day 2
2023年9月9日, フランス ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F
Perfect way to start the day is with a good night's sleep under our belts, a healthy version of Eggs Benedict and the strongest Americano ever! Walked 9+ miles around town, sometimes in circles because the streets here are confusingly windy. A sweaty day (90 degrees and humid), capped by a fresh picnic dinner on our hotel's terrace, which has a (distant) view of the sea.もっと詳しく
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旅行者Cheese and wine for dinner with a view of the ocean - perfection! Off to a great start!
2023/09/09返信する翻訳する
7いいね
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日2
2023年9月8日金曜日 15:51
☀️ 82 °F
海抜: 43 フィート
フランス Grande Plage 43.484453, -1.55883143°29’4” N 1°33’32” W
Biarritz
2023年9月8日, フランス ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F
Loonnng day, from a sleepless overnight in Premium Economy (better than standard economy but still...) to the most circuitous trip I've ever taken from one gate of an airport to another, to a four-hour layover and finally to the cool, charming surf town of Biarritz. Walked along beach paths and winding roads, wined and dined at a couple cafes and are now preparing to turn in, missing the recommended watch parties for France v. New Zealand in rugby tonight. I'm OK with that!もっと詳しく
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7いいね
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日1
2023年9月7日木曜日 16:20
🌩️ 91 °F
海抜: 328 フィート
アメリカ Washington Dulles International Airport 38.951958, -77.44764438°57’7” N 77°26’52” W
Departure Day/Opening Day
2023年9月7日, アメリカ ⋅ 🌩️ 91 °F
A coincidence that Cap One's lounge at IAD (which I get free access to thru my card) opened on our departure day? I think not! What a great way to launch our adventure. Free food and drink for us not-yet-weary pilgrims! 😉もっと詳しく
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旅行者Have a wonderful walk!
2023/09/07返信する翻訳する
旅行者Progress update? Make your connection and did your bags find you also?
2023/09/08返信する翻訳する
7いいね

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