sept. – oct. 2023

Camino Frances

Avec Mary Beth Murphy Leer más

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Día 26–27
2 de octubre de 2023, 17:55 - 3 de octubre de 2023
1 noche
☀️ 84 °F
Altitud: 2.848 p
España San Martín del Camino 42.497481, -5.80377842°29’51” N 5°48’14” W
Nothin' Special Day
2–3 oct. 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F
Welp, this was certainly the most unphotogenic, uninteresting walk of the trip. Left Leon and walked an hour through an industrial area and suburbs, then more Meseta along a busy highway till we got to our hotel. Roughly 15 miles total.

We are staying in another place that is half hotel, half hostal, which exposes you to more pilgrims--a good thing. Lovely backyard with pool and a great breeze blowing.

Reconnected with Brian from Maine (we dined with him in Sahagun and have seen him other places), and we are sure to see more familiar faces tomorrow night in Astorga. Looking forward to that and to more interesting scenery (and more mountains, soon!) as we leave the Meseta behind us.Leer más
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Día 27
martes, 3 de octubre de 2023, 14:47
⛅ 73 °F
Altitud: 2.867 p
España Astorga 42.457744, -6.05588242°27’28” N 6°3’21” W
New Scenery + Astorga
3 de octubre de 2023, España ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F
Ahhh, a welcome change of scenery and a beautiful, sunny day to boot.

Didn’t take a lot of pics myself because my phone is on the fritz. In fact, I’m using MB’s phone to post this and will be relying on her photos going forward. Just hoping my phone can give me five minutes a day until I land at IAD.

I think we walked about 15 miles, mostly through gentle hills, farms and woodland. Plenty of towns to stop in en route, including Orbigo, with with “one of the longest and best preserved, medieval bridges in Spain, dating from the 13th century,” according to our guidebook.

Staying tonight in a small city called Astorga, which boasts several churches, a cathedral and a Gaudi building known as the Bishop’s Palace, which is just beautiful--one of our favorite sites so far. Astorga is also the start of an area associated with the Maragato culture, which we will learn more about as we walk.

Had a lovely b-day meal on the town’s main plaza with MB and Brian (Maine). Excited for the mountains tomorrow!Leer más
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ViajeroHappy Birthday
3/10/23ResponderTraducir
ViajeroHappy birthday! Beautiful day - sorry to hear your phone is misbehaving... 🥺
3/10/23ResponderTraducir
ViajeroHappy happy birthday! So excited to see your adventures! You have had unbelievable experiences! 🎂😘
3/10/23ResponderTraducir
ViajeroHappy Birthday!!! We miss you, & can’t wait to be sitting with you having a brew at BabyCat & hearing all about it!🥳
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Día 28–29
4 de octubre de 2023, 13:30 - 5 de octubre de 2023
1 noche
☀️ 68 °F
Altitud: 3.829 p
España Rabanal del Camino 42.482304, -6.28642°28’56” N 6°17’10” W
A gradual climb to Rabanal
4–5 oct. 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F
A beautiful day up gentle mountains to a quiet, charming village called Rabanal del Camino. Upon arriving, we resisted the urge to check in and instead sat at a recommended cafe and had a good, one-course meal that hit the spot.

There is a Benedictine monastery run by Germans here that offers a 2-night silent retreat, complete with Gregorian chants, vespers and compline. We aren't staying there but thought it was cool enough to mention in case anyone is planning their own Camino.

Had a classic regional dish for dinner--Cocido Maragato. Joe and Leo would have loved it. A lot of slow-cooked meats (plus cabbage and chick peas). A bit too much for us but very tasty and glad we tried it.

Tomorrow is a big day, when we climb to the highest point of our route and then (the hardest part), descend steeply to Molinaseca. Excited for the view we will earn!Leer más
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ViajeroThis monastery sounds inviting
4/10/23ResponderTraducir
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Día 29–30
5 de octubre de 2023, 16:25 - 6 de octubre de 2023
1 noche
☀️ 81 °F
Altitud: 1.939 p
España Molinaseca 42.537304, -6.519642°32’14” N 6°31’11” W
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Molinaseca
5–6 oct. 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F
A fabulous day, and one of our hardest, too!

Left at *dawn* (8:50 am) and the sun rose as we walked up the mountains. Clear skies and temps that climbed quickly from 50 to upper 70's. Stopped an hour in for breakfast then kept going till we reached the highest point of the whole trip (5,000 feet above sea level). On our way, we stopped at the Camino icon Cruz de Ferro, where pilgrims leave rocks or other items signifying the reason for their pilgrimage.

Up was relatively easy. Down was the hard part. A town halfway down the mountain was super charming--we spent an hour+ there to *let the dogs out* (go barefoot ) and refuel with freshly made spinach, feta and pesto crepes and our trusty Radlers! Then more rocky downhill hiking that made us especially thankful for dry weather and hiking poles.

Glad to be back in towns made of stone and wood (instead of clay) and surrounded by mountains. So, so pretty.Leer más
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Viajero You want to stop eating beef because there are cows in a meadow?
5/10/23ResponderTraducir
Viajero There is a longer story, and I'm half kidding. But we thought we saw a cow being led to slaughter and all the cows were mooing loudly. We came up with a different narrative that made us feel better!
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ViajeroAhhh, I see! Maybe it was just going to be milked...
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Día 30–31
6 de octubre de 2023, 10:48 - 7 de octubre de 2023
1 noche
☀️ 66 °F
Altitud: 1.781 p
España Iglesia de San Andrés 42.543008, -6.59322542°32’35” N 6°35’36” W
Ponferrada
6–7 oct. 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F
A tiny walk (5K) this morning to Ponferrada, where we are enjoying a "nearo" (near-zero) day. Ran into Monika as we headed out of Molinaseca and learned more about her fascinating life (she has lived on 6 of the 7 continents, and the outlier is NOT Antarctica!).

Arrived soon after the Knights Templar castle opened and toured it. (The photos don't reflect the sweaty palms we had peering over the walls of the very high parapet.) After that, we collected our luggage and took our stinky clothes to a nearby laundromat, missing the lunch hour (something we've gotten good at). Rather than wait till 8, we went to a very large supermarket a block away and bought ourselves a hotel picnic, which at this point is a welcome change from the somewhat monotonous pilgrim's menu.

A few more random notes:

1) It took us four weeks but we have finally learned to walk more slowly, and I've found it's much more pleasant to listen to the sounds of a slower gait.

2) The flies/bees here have been as omnipresent as the graffiti. We are making peace with that, casually scooping them out of our beverages without pausing our conversation. Still, we wonder why so few places invest in screens. 🤔Leer más
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Día 31–32
7 de octubre de 2023, 13:42 - 8 de octubre de 2023
1 noche
☀️ 79 °F
Altitud: 1.657 p
España Villafranca del Bierzo 42.605997, -6.81007542°36’22” N 6°48’36” W
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Villafranca del Bierzo
7–8 oct. 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F
Today's walk (15 miles) took us through Bierzo vineyards and a few small towns. It was another scenic, sunny day--in the 70s when we were walking, but it hi it 90 around 5 pm, so it's good we finished by lunchtime.

Saw people we haven't seen since early in our trip and spent a little more time with Elizabeth (from Canada, whose shin splints miraculously healed overnight) and Jean (who is from New Mexico and kickin' ass at 78!).

Villafranca is a beautiful, small mountain town that somehow at some point supported three convents, three churches and a monastery. The streets and pathways are hilly and curvy so if you are really tired and on foot you don't want to miss your turn as we did a couple times coming in.

We have a big climb and long hike tomorrow so hope to get an early start (if we can see well enough in the dark).Leer más
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Viajero Beautiful pictures!
7/10/23ResponderTraducir
ViajeroAmazing!!!
8/10/23ResponderTraducir
Viajero Oh Boy, you are taking some great pictures. I'm loving it. Kathryn
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Día 32–33
8 de octubre de 2023, 17:30 - 9 de octubre de 2023
1 noche
☀️ 79 °F
Altitud: 4.268 p
España Igrexa de Santa María A Real do Cebreiro 42.707748, -7.04206642°42’28” N 7°2’31” W
Long, steep walk to O'Cebreiro
8–9 oct. 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F
Didn't expect today to be our most demanding day, but we like the scenic detours and they come at a price!

Left our town at 7:15 am when it was still dark and climbed about 4 miles straight up a mountain. The optional ascent added an hour to our stage but the views and quietness (only saw three others on the way) were spectacular. Later joined the main route, which also involved a very steep climb (another 4-ish miles straight up) at the end. Had to stop mid-trail several times to catch our breath. Reached our destination after 5 pm, making it my longest day of work since I retired!

Of note, we have left Castilla y Leon behind and are now in Galicia, which shares traditions and culture with other Celtic regions. Strange (and cool!) to hear *Irish* music and bagpipes when we entered O'Cebreiro. (Fyi, we had to taxi to another town for a hotel but will get dropped back where we left off tomorrow morning.)

Met up with friends who we expect to see many more times in our final week on the Camino. Hard to believe we have been gone for a month--but at the same time, St. Jean Pied-de-Port seems like a lifetime ago.Leer más
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Día 33–34
9 de octubre de 2023, 14:30 - 10 de octubre de 2023
1 noche
☀️ 81 °F
Altitud: 2.208 p
España Tríacastela 42.756004, -7.240942°45’22” N 7°14’27” W
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Walk to Triacastela
9–10 oct. 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F
At the risk of being boringly redundant, today was another beautiful walk. Nothing super steep, plenty of cows grazing on stunning pastures, and a good amount of shade to keep things comfortable.

More people on the path today, a preview of our final legs as many Camino walkers opt to start in Sarria, which is tomorrow's destination. (You have to walk at least from Sarria to receive a Compostela.) We are bracing for crowded, less peaceful trails and training our brains not to judge these strange newcomers as party-crashers.

Did not sleep well last night as our hotel was on a road that 18-wheelers barrelled down at all hours. So we filled up at *linner* today and plan to turn in early.Leer más
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Viajero Beautiful sunrise!
10/10/23ResponderTraducir
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Día 34–35
10 de octubre de 2023, 16:00 - 11 de octubre de 2023
1 noche
☀️ 84 °F
Altitud: 1.506 p
España Sarria 42.777174, -7.41430342°46’38” N 7°24’51” W
Scenic option to Sarria
10–11 oct. 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F
*Cows and sheep and goats gonna scurry....* That is my only complaint today. Mary Beth woke up singing this song and it got stuck in my head all day. Other than that, no complaints.

15 miles of beautiful scenery and sites, including an active Benedictine monastery in Samos that is the oldest (?) monastery in the Western world. (Sadly, we could only see the outside as we didn't have time to wait for the tour).

Old, old villages, shaded paths, more cows--and goats to greet us as we entered Sarria.

It's clear this is the launching point for many. Bigger town and lots of stores and cafes geared toward the newbie pilgrim. We are prepared to welcome them to the Camino (the seasoned pilgrims that we are!) and excited to be in the home stretch now.Leer más
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ViajeroWhen will you reach Santiago?
11/10/23ResponderTraducir
ViajeroWe walk into Santiago on Sunday the 15th
11/10/23ResponderTraducir
ViajeroWoo woo. Coming down the homestretch.
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Día 35–36
11 de octubre de 2023, 14:00 - 12 de octubre de 2023
1 noche
☁️ 79 °F
Altitud: 1.332 p
España Portomarín 42.808139, -7.61674442°48’29” N 7°37’0” W
T minus 4: Portomarin
11–12 oct. 2023, España ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F
A pretty blase day on the Camino! Yes, there were more people on the trail but not an overwhelming amount. Yes, it was beautiful, but nothing we haven't seen many times already. So... not many pics.

We did have a fabulous meal after arriving in Portomarin with our steadfast Camino sisters, Barb and Monika, and it grew to include Elizabeth, then Craig, then others, which is when we knew to call a time-out and go home to do our laundry.

Relishing our final week and thinking of how to keep what we love about the Camino alive when we return home.Leer más
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ViajeroT-4 - I can't believe it! Wishing you a lovely final 4!!
11/10/23ResponderTraducir
Viajero❤️
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Día 36–37
12 de octubre de 2023, 14:45 - 13 de octubre de 2023
1 noche
☁️ 79 °F
Altitud: 1.850 p
España Palas de Rey 42.872804, -7.868742°52’22” N 7°52’7” W
Palas de Rei
12–13 oct. 2023, España ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F
Quick update: Left at crack of dawn (7:50 am here) and wended our way through a steady stream of walkers heading out of town. The vibe is different with so many more people on the path, almost like we're in a walk-a-thon. And because nothing can top the scenery we've already passed, and because my phone is being finicky, I didn't take many pics.

We were happy to catch up with our friends for a great lunch/dinner, and excited that a party of sorts is shaping up for Oct. 15.

Tomorrow is a long day (18 miles), and the first in a long time with rain in the forecast. We will also be back in the 60s -- a welcome change!Leer más
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ViajeroRain day - hope you're able to have some warm spots to reheat when you get chilly!
12/10/23ResponderTraducir
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Día 37–38
13 de octubre de 2023, 16:30 - 14 de octubre de 2023
1 noche
🌧 66 °F
Altitud: 1.217 p
España Arzúa 42.925684, -8.16366942°55’32” N 8°9’49” W
Soggy walk to Arzua
13–14 oct. 2023, España ⋅ 🌧 66 °F
Left at 8 just as the rain began. We donned our waterproof gear and then promptly soaked ourselves in sweat. So, it was a soggy 16.5 mile slog to Arzua.

Had a long lunch half-way to let a downpour pass, and we are now comfortably chilling in a pretty nice hotel.

No pics since my phone is clinging to life and therefore could not be out in the rain.Leer más
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ViajeroI'm guessing you're more heating than chilling in the room - a blanket may be involved?
13/10/23ResponderTraducir
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Día 38–39
14 de octubre de 2023, 13:30 - 15 de octubre de 2023
1 noche
☁️ 66 °F
Altitud: 981 p
España Arca 42.906125, -8.36049442°54’22” N 8°21’38” W
Last stop before Santiago
14–15 oct. 2023, España ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F
Blah, blah, blah. Walked 12 miles. Blah, blah, blah. Phone still dying. Very few picks.

Tried souvenir shopping but it's all schlock so don't expect anything!

Enjoyed *dinner* at a dia-de-muertos themed Mexican restaurant here in O Pedrouzo that was opened by a family that just moved here from Mexico. Had been craving nachos but, hmm, they didn't quite seem authentic. At least they offered a cool stamp for our passports!

MB has had to put up with several recent bouts of the giggles. Wine involved but still -- maybe I'm just ready for the finish line. See you tomorrow!Leer más
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ViajeroStills seems like a fun trip yadda yadda
14/10/23ResponderTraducir
ViajeroYeah, nachos are properly Tex Mex - so that's why they didn't seem authentic!
14/10/23ResponderTraducir
ViajeroLove your humor, Chatlotte!
19/10/23ResponderTraducir
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Día 39–41
15 de octubre de 2023, 11:35 - 17 de octubre de 2023
2 noches
🌧 59 °F
Altitud: 810 p
España Hostal dos Reis Católicos 42.881084, -8.54601442°52’52” N 8°32’46” W
Santiago
15–17 oct. 2023, España ⋅ 🌧 59 °F
We're here and all is wonderful. Feels so good, happy and sad all at once. A lot of unexpected tears today!

Glad we could check in early to our hotel next to the cathedral. Not just cuz we were soaked (it rained the whole way) but also because it allowed us to invite our friends in for Irish Coffees and lunch and really celebrate.

I am very grateful to my friend Mary Beth for asking me to join her on this incredible adventure. I have loved it all--the ups and downs--and highly recommend the Camino Frances experience. Wish there was an equivalent at home. You really connect with people in a way that's hard to explain or replicate in normal life. But we have promised to try!

It has truly been a *buen camino*!Leer más
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ViajeroPacific Crest trail, Continental Divide trail, Appalachian trail... There are some options state-side. (But of course the lodging is not so nice!)
15/10/23ResponderTraducir
ViajeroCONGRATULATIONS!
15/10/23ResponderTraducir
ViajeroGreat job. Congratulations
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Fin del viaje
18 de octubre de 2023