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Camino Frances
  • Charlotte Birch
sep. – okt. 2023

Camino Frances

Avec Mary Beth Murphy Les mer
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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesReisende
    More wine cellars on the outskirts of Leon.
    A long our walk: Basilica de la Virgen del CaminoRoadside path with plenty of trucks speeding by

    Nothin' Special Day

    2.–3. okt. 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Welp, this was certainly the most unphotogenic, uninteresting walk of the trip. Left Leon and walked an hour through an industrial area and suburbs, then more Meseta along a busy highway till we got to our hotel. Roughly 15 miles total.

    We are staying in another place that is half hotel, half hostal, which exposes you to more pilgrims--a good thing. Lovely backyard with pool and a great breeze blowing.

    Reconnected with Brian from Maine (we dined with him in Sahagun and have seen him other places), and we are sure to see more familiar faces tomorrow night in Astorga. Looking forward to that and to more interesting scenery (and more mountains, soon!) as we leave the Meseta behind us.    Les mer

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesReisende
    Puente de Orbigo
    Medieval bridge in OrbigoView of Astorga in distanceAstorga cathedralChoir section of cathedralGaudi palace, across from our hotelGaudi's Bishops Palace

    New Scenery + Astorga

    3. oktober 2023, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    Ahhh, a welcome change of scenery and a beautiful, sunny day to boot.

    Didn’t take a lot of pics myself because my phone is on the fritz. In fact, I’m using MB’s phone to post this and will be relying on her photos going forward. Just hoping my phone can give me five minutes a day until I land at IAD.

    I think we walked about 15 miles, mostly through gentle hills, farms and woodland. Plenty of towns to stop in en route, including Orbigo, with with “one of the longest and best preserved, medieval bridges in Spain, dating from the 13th century,” according to our guidebook.

    Staying tonight in a small city called Astorga, which boasts several churches, a cathedral and a Gaudi building known as the Bishop’s Palace, which is just beautiful--one of our favorite sites so far. Astorga is also the start of an area associated with the Maragato culture, which we will learn more about as we walk.

    Had a lovely b-day meal on the town’s main plaza with MB and Brian (Maine). Excited for the mountains tomorrow!    Les mer

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesReisende
    Walk to Rabanal
    Lunch at cafe in Rabanal, with a beautiful dog who is hiking Camino with his owner in backgroundRelaxing after a hearty bowl of spaghetti carbonara plus a sangria (or two)Rabanal del CaminoCocido Maragato, a deconstructed stew

    A gradual climb to Rabanal

    4.–5. okt. 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    A beautiful day up gentle mountains to a quiet, charming village called Rabanal del Camino. Upon arriving, we resisted the urge to check in and instead sat at a recommended cafe and had a good, one-course meal that hit the spot.

    There is a Benedictine monastery run by Germans here that offers a 2-night silent retreat, complete with Gregorian chants, vespers and compline. We aren't staying there but thought it was cool enough to mention in case anyone is planning their own Camino.

    Had a classic regional dish for dinner--Cocido Maragato. Joe and Leo would have loved it. A lot of slow-cooked meats (plus cabbage and chick peas). A bit too much for us but very tasty and glad we tried it.

    Tomorrow is a big day, when we climb to the highest point of our route and then (the hardest part), descend steeply to Molinaseca. Excited for the view we will earn!    Les mer

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesReisende
    San Nicolas Church, as seen from our Casa's balcony in Molinaseca
    Cruz de FerroBrian, from Portland, Maine, who is staying at .any if same hotels as usOld friends, beautiful hike, gorgeous day!2The reason I want to stop eating beefEntering MolinasecaCasa San Nicolas, Molinaseca

    Molinaseca

    5.–6. okt. 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    A fabulous day, and one of our hardest, too!

    Left at *dawn* (8:50 am) and the sun rose as we walked up the mountains. Clear skies and temps that climbed quickly from 50 to upper 70's. Stopped an hour in for breakfast then kept going till we reached the highest point of the whole trip (5,000 feet above sea level). On our way, we stopped at the Camino icon Cruz de Ferro, where pilgrims leave rocks or other items signifying the reason for their pilgrimage.

    Up was relatively easy. Down was the hard part. A town halfway down the mountain was super charming--we spent an hour+ there to *let the dogs out* (go barefoot ) and refuel with freshly made spinach, feta and pesto crepes and our trusty Radlers! Then more rocky downhill hiking that made us especially thankful for dry weather and hiking poles.

    Glad to be back in towns made of stone and wood (instead of clay) and surrounded by mountains. So, so pretty.    Les mer

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesReisende
    Castille de los Templarios in Poferrada
    Walked with Monika from Molinaseca to PonferradaGuess I am taller than the average Medieval knightWalking through town with the lunch crowdLaundry dayDinner from the supermercado

    Ponferrada

    6.–7. okt. 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    A tiny walk (5K) this morning to Ponferrada, where we are enjoying a "nearo" (near-zero) day. Ran into Monika as we headed out of Molinaseca and learned more about her fascinating life (she has lived on 6 of the 7 continents, and the outlier is NOT Antarctica!).

    Arrived soon after the Knights Templar castle opened and toured it. (The photos don't reflect the sweaty palms we had peering over the walls of the very high parapet.) After that, we collected our luggage and took our stinky clothes to a nearby laundromat, missing the lunch hour (something we've gotten good at). Rather than wait till 8, we went to a very large supermarket a block away and bought ourselves a hotel picnic, which at this point is a welcome change from the somewhat monotonous pilgrim's menu.

    A few more random notes:

    1) It took us four weeks but we have finally learned to walk more slowly, and I've found it's much more pleasant to listen to the sounds of a slower gait.

    2) The flies/bees here have been as omnipresent as the graffiti. We are making peace with that, casually scooping them out of our beverages without pausing our conversation. Still, we wonder why so few places invest in screens. 🤔    Les mer

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesReisende
    1One town on today's route offered a different kind of waymarker
    Yet another simple-on-the-outside, ornate-on-the-inside church along the wayBroke the 200 km mark today!Villafranca, a town surrounded by mountainsInside of one of Villafranca's churchesCity garden in VillafrancaPublic water fountain in the city garden1Our hotel on the Plaza MayorCafes and shops on Plaza Mayor

    Villafranca del Bierzo

    7.–8. okt. 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Today's walk (15 miles) took us through Bierzo vineyards and a few small towns. It was another scenic, sunny day--in the 70s when we were walking, but it hi it 90 around 5 pm, so it's good we finished by lunchtime.

    Saw people we haven't seen since early in our trip and spent a little more time with Elizabeth (from Canada, whose shin splints miraculously healed overnight) and Jean (who is from New Mexico and kickin' ass at 78!).

    Villafranca is a beautiful, small mountain town that somehow at some point supported three convents, three churches and a monastery. The streets and pathways are hilly and curvy so if you are really tired and on foot you don't want to miss your turn as we did a couple times coming in.

    We have a big climb and long hike tomorrow so hope to get an early start (if we can see well enough in the dark).    Les mer

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesReisende
    Sunrise over the mountains around Villafranca
    View of valley at sunrise from our perch in the mountainsSeveral locals were collecting chestnuts today andate saw chestnut liquor and cake on a cafe menuA very high road over a village we passed throughSign indicating we are now in GaliciaOur trail-mates in O'Cebreiro

    Long, steep walk to O'Cebreiro

    8.–9. okt. 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Didn't expect today to be our most demanding day, but we like the scenic detours and they come at a price!

    Left our town at 7:15 am when it was still dark and climbed about 4 miles straight up a mountain. The optional ascent added an hour to our stage but the views and quietness (only saw three others on the way) were spectacular. Later joined the main route, which also involved a very steep climb (another 4-ish miles straight up) at the end. Had to stop mid-trail several times to catch our breath. Reached our destination after 5 pm, making it my longest day of work since I retired!

    Of note, we have left Castilla y Leon behind and are now in Galicia, which shares traditions and culture with other Celtic regions. Strange (and cool!) to hear *Irish* music and bagpipes when we entered O'Cebreiro. (Fyi, we had to taxi to another town for a hotel but will get dropped back where we left off tomorrow morning.)

    Met up with friends who we expect to see many more times in our final week on the Camino. Hard to believe we have been gone for a month--but at the same time, St. Jean Pied-de-Port seems like a lifetime ago.    Les mer

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesReisende
    1Sunrise at O'Cebreiro
    A palloza in O'CebreiroChurch in O'Cebreiro that is also where a priest who came up with yellow arrow waymarker is buriedPilgrims watching the sunrise before hitting the trailPilgrim statue--with graffiti, natchThe pilgrim statue's feet, made more realistic by recent pilgrimsPhoto of MB, Barb and me, courtesy of MonikaOur usual rest stop before walking the final 5k. This one with an especially nice view.Stop already with the beautiful scenery!A shady walk heading into Triacastela

    Walk to Triacastela

    9.–10. okt. 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    At the risk of being boringly redundant, today was another beautiful walk. Nothing super steep, plenty of cows grazing on stunning pastures, and a good amount of shade to keep things comfortable.

    More people on the path today, a preview of our final legs as many Camino walkers opt to start in Sarria, which is tomorrow's destination. (You have to walk at least from Sarria to receive a Compostela.) We are bracing for crowded, less peaceful trails and training our brains not to judge these strange newcomers as party-crashers.

    Did not sleep well last night as our hotel was on a road that 18-wheelers barrelled down at all hours. So we filled up at *linner* today and plan to turn in early.    Les mer

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesReisende
    Graveyard along the pathSamos monasteryBenedictine monastery-founded in 6th century on asceticism of the Desert FathersNot exactly what you want to see after 15 miles but at least our hotel was at the top of the steps!The church across from our hotel in SarriaThis 9-year old is starting his Camino with his bestie tomorrow. He's a good boy!

    Scenic option to Sarria

    10.–11. okt. 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    *Cows and sheep and goats gonna scurry....* That is my only complaint today. Mary Beth woke up singing this song and it got stuck in my head all day. Other than that, no complaints.

    15 miles of beautiful scenery and sites, including an active Benedictine monastery in Samos that is the oldest (?) monastery in the Western world. (Sadly, we could only see the outside as we didn't have time to wait for the tour).

    Old, old villages, shaded paths, more cows--and goats to greet us as we entered Sarria.

    It's clear this is the launching point for many. Bigger town and lots of stores and cafes geared toward the newbie pilgrim. We are prepared to welcome them to the Camino (the seasoned pilgrims that we are!) and excited to be in the home stretch now.    Les mer

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesReisende
    More old stone walls and cows in the pasture
    A small chapel in a tiny hamlet......complete with graffiti and whatnot on the insideAn example of the many old stone structures built into the hillsideBroke the 100K threshold. Two stamps a day in our passport from now on!We always end up catching up to ElizabethSome old stone buildings well preserved. Some not so much.Again with the steps after a long hike!View from Portomarin. Walked over a very high bridge. Too scared to look down or take a pic!We are clearly having a good time. For record: Barb, Elizabeth, MB, Craig, Monika, me

    T minus 4: Portomarin

    11.–12. okt. 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    A pretty blase day on the Camino! Yes, there were more people on the trail but not an overwhelming amount. Yes, it was beautiful, but nothing we haven't seen many times already. So... not many pics.

    We did have a fabulous meal after arriving in Portomarin with our steadfast Camino sisters, Barb and Monika, and it grew to include Elizabeth, then Craig, then others, which is when we knew to call a time-out and go home to do our laundry.

    Relishing our final week and thinking of how to keep what we love about the Camino alive when we return home.    Les mer

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesReisende
    Leaving Portomarin at the crack of dawn (7:50!)
    Many more pilgrims on the trail in this home stretchWe've passed many of these and just learned they are horreos, where grain is storedOur cute little room at Pension As HortasDebra (next to me) is planning a celebration for our camino posse in Santiago Oct. 15

    Palas de Rei

    12.–13. okt. 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    Quick update: Left at crack of dawn (7:50 am here) and wended our way through a steady stream of walkers heading out of town. The vibe is different with so many more people on the path, almost like we're in a walk-a-thon. And because nothing can top the scenery we've already passed, and because my phone is being finicky, I didn't take many pics.

    We were happy to catch up with our friends for a great lunch/dinner, and excited that a party of sorts is shaping up for Oct. 15.

    Tomorrow is a long day (18 miles), and the first in a long time with rain in the forecast. We will also be back in the 60s -- a welcome change!    Les mer

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesReisende

    Soggy walk to Arzua

    13.–14. okt. 2023, Spania ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

    Left at 8 just as the rain began. We donned our waterproof gear and then promptly soaked ourselves in sweat. So, it was a soggy 16.5 mile slog to Arzua.

    Had a long lunch half-way to let a downpour pass, and we are now comfortably chilling in a pretty nice hotel.

    No pics since my phone is clinging to life and therefore could not be out in the rain.    Les mer

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesReisende
    Last night's libations, probably marked up 200% by our hotel but still worth it!

    Last stop before Santiago

    14.–15. okt. 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Blah, blah, blah. Walked 12 miles. Blah, blah, blah. Phone still dying. Very few picks.

    Tried souvenir shopping but it's all schlock so don't expect anything!

    Enjoyed *dinner* at a dia-de-muertos themed Mexican restaurant here in O Pedrouzo that was opened by a family that just moved here from Mexico. Had been craving nachos but, hmm, they didn't quite seem authentic. At least they offered a cool stamp for our passports!

    MB has had to put up with several recent bouts of the giggles. Wine involved but still -- maybe I'm just ready for the finish line. See you tomorrow!    Les mer

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesReisende
    Thank you, my dear friend! Happy to complete the journey with you!
    Bought a flashlight yesterday so we could leave at 7. Fun to walk in the woods in the dark!Ignore me in my fashionable poncho--look at those gorgeous trees!❤️After the pilgrim mass at the cathedral

    Santiago

    15.–17. okt. 2023, Spania ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    We're here and all is wonderful. Feels so good, happy and sad all at once. A lot of unexpected tears today!

    Glad we could check in early to our hotel next to the cathedral. Not just cuz we were soaked (it rained the whole way) but also because it allowed us to invite our friends in for Irish Coffees and lunch and really celebrate.

    I am very grateful to my friend Mary Beth for asking me to join her on this incredible adventure. I have loved it all--the ups and downs--and highly recommend the Camino Frances experience. Wish there was an equivalent at home. You really connect with people in a way that's hard to explain or replicate in normal life. But we have promised to try!

    It has truly been a *buen camino*!    Les mer

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    Reisens slutt
    18. oktober 2023
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