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Chris Dickson

Chris Dickson

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    • Chris DicksonПутешественникIceland 2024
      Narrow passage near Bergen
      SognefjordThe FlamsbanaKjosfossenSiren of the falls, or some such crap

      Back to Bergen and Beyond

      22–24 авг. 2024, Норвегия ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

      We have made our way to Oslo now, by a flight to Bergen for a pleasant overnight stay, then a terrific, scenic day on a ferry and some trains to make our way to Oslo.

      In cool and cloudy - but dry - weather, the Norled ferry left Bergen and threaded its way between a myriad of Norwegian islands to the Sognefjord, Norway’s biggest at an average 5 kilometres wide and an incredible 1,000 metres deep for over 100 kilometres of its 200 kilometre length.

      The scenery was amazing, especially as we sailed away from Bergen and then as we reached the upper reaches of the fjord, where the cliffs were steep and dotted with some spectacular waterfalls.

      We disembarked at Flam, a tiny town that nowadays owes its existence to the Flam Railway, the classic train ride we were about to take.

      But first we took a quick look around the town and its quite interesting railway museum, along with thousands of people from a cruise ship that was berthed in the fjord. No point complaining, though, when a bit over a week ago we were invading similar tiny towns from a cruising behemoth ourselves.

      The Flamsbana itself was a very scenic twenty kilometres up steep hills, through hand-hewn tunnels and with incredible valley views on both sides of the train.

      About half way up is Reinunga Station, with the Kjosfossen Waterfall and a quick floor show - music and a lady in an elegant red dress dancing in the nearby hills near the falls. Actually, it was a long way off, so it could just have easily been a man in an elegant red dress.

      The Flam Railway terminates at Myrdal, where we boarded a regular train for a long four hours or so to Oslo, which we reached late in the evening. The day had been very long but completely enjoyable.      Читать далее

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    • Chris DicksonПутешественникIceland 2024
      Kirkjufell
      Waterfall in the wind at GrundafjordurNot a serial killer at HellisandurPeninsular rocks at LondrangarCold and windy at ArnastapiArnastapi1

      Back to Reykjavik

      21–22 авг. 2024, Исландия ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

      We had a rushed and rather unpleasant drive around the Snaefellsnes Peninsula to finish off our Iceland road trip.

      This was a pity, because the scenery was outstanding on this very westerly outcrop of land. But it was eight degrees and the icy wind - strong enough to make it very hard to open the car doors (or dangerously easy, in the other direction) - brought the “seems like” temperature down to about two. So it wasn’t a day for a relaxing stroll admiring the vistas along the coast.

      So we looked in at Hellissandur, Iceland’s self-proclaimed street art capital. Who thought a mural about Iceland’s most famous serial killer was a good idea?

      We did stop at a couple of viewpoints along the way, stagger out to the shoreline and take a few photos. Of the puffins said to inhabit the area, we saw none; they were much too smart to be out in that sort of weather.

      So our drive finished with a long, tedious drive back to Reykjavik, trying to control cars buffetted by the wind and finally trying to find our hotel in the surprisingly heavy late afternoon traffic.

      Soon enough, we were in a Mexican Restaurant, drinking some beers and reminiscing about the week we had just spent together. With Gary and Jan leaving for Belgium the following day that would leave just six to carry on the the next part of the journey, back in Norway.      Читать далее

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    • Chris DicksonПутешественникIceland 2024
      Gudrunarlaug thermal pool - rather small
      The change roomAnother random waterfallIcelandic horsesLiefer Eriksson at the Viking Longhouse1The Viking LonghouseBedding and obvious privacy inside the longhouseRandom white church - there are millions of themThe road to the westStykkisholmer

      Stykkisholmur

      20–21 авг. 2024, Исландия ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

      The shortest driving day of our circumnavigation of the island, and one with few sights, meant this was a pretty easy one.

      We were interested in a swim in the thermal pool - well, maybe interested in the idea of a swim in a thermal pool, as it was about seven degrees - at Gudrunarlaug.

      After a drive of about forty minutes we arrived and walked up the pathway to a most attractive circular pool, reasonably warm and with a nice outlook over the surrounding countryside. Only problem was it was tiny; four people would have filled it up and the eight of us would have experienced a new level of intimacy had all we got in at once.

      So we skipped it, got the nice lady who was in the pool when we arrived to take a picture of us standing on the edge, and drove away the way we had come in.

      The replica Viking Longhouse, at Eiryksstadir, was quite different.

      We paid our money and walked inside a small turf building of the type used by Eric the Red and his brethren. Inside was a lady in traditional costume telling all sorts of stories of the way of life of the Vikings, from their food to their weapons to their effect on the landscape and their remarkable explorations of far flung places.

      It was a fascinating forty-five minutes or so, delivered by a lady who was clearly knowledgeable and passionate about her subject.

      It was our last night on the road and we stayed out of town at the Hotel Stundafridur.

      At six we met up to arrange a time for dinner. The gentleman took our orders and said he was leaving now, and the owners would be arriving in an hour or so. In the meantime we were to HELP OURSELVES TO THE BAR AND JUST KEEP A RECORD TO LET THEM KNOW. Haven’t had that happen in many places!      Читать далее

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    • Chris DicksonПутешественникIceland 2024
      No name, just a typical Icelandic roadside waterfall
      Another example of Icelandic terrainThe walk to DettifossDettifossDettifossDettifossAsbyrgi CanyonHusavik

      Husavik

      20–21 авг. 2024, Исландия ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

      Leaving the fisherpeople to their pursuits, we drove through increasingly scenic country, and increasingly dodgy weather to Faskrudfjordur, a tiny town with quite a connection to France, mainly due to thee hospital which served until 1935 to treat French fishermen. Even the street signs are still bilingual.

      We pushed on in increasing rain, driving along what in fine weather would have been a magnificent coastal drive. The view was enhanced, but the passengers alarmed, as the road skirted the steep cliffs. As on most of Iceland’s roads there was little or no space on the roadside.

      The weather was pretty bad by the time we reached Dettifoss, Europe’s second most powerful waterfall at 44 metres high and 100 wide and an average of 136 cubic metres disappearing over it every second. Only the Rheinfall is bigger.

      Despite the wet and freezing cold walk to the falls, they were a sight to behold, with the spray being blown every which way and hordes of visitors hunched over against the wind as they took their selfies.

      On that note, it is summer, and therefore peak season in Iceland. This apparently means huge crowds everywhere. Car parks are full, and there is virtually no chance of taking a photo without a few random heads or arms in it. The roads are crowded with motor homes.

      Our last stopover was Asbyrgi Canyon, a green, hundred metre deep oasis in the treeless, boulder-strewn landscape that we had driven through.

      Finally we arrived in Husavik, a neat little town that no one would have heard of had it not been put firmly on the world stage by the classic, artistic movie “Eurovision”.      Читать далее

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    • Chris DicksonПутешественникIceland 2024
      Dimmuborgir Lava Field
      A genuine 100% real Yule Lads encampmentLake MyvatnGodafossVista near SiglufjordurGrafarkirkja

      Hvammstangi

      19–20 авг. 2024, Исландия ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

      Our personal Icelandic saga continued in better weather at Dimmuborgir Lava Field, where we wandered around looking at fascinating contorted rock formations and some crappy stuff about the Yule Lads, possibly ancient Iceland’s answer to the Bay City Rollers.

      We then called at Lake Myvatin, where we walked to a couple of viewpoints and admired the twisting foreshore of the lake and its many islands. A shallow lake, it was created 2,300 years ago by - funnily enough for Iceland - a volcanic eruption.

      Next up was Godafoss, yet another spectacular waterfall, this one handsome in a nice setting and on a dry day.

      Then, a drive up around the peninsula to Siglufjordur, easily the farthest north we had travelled in Iceland and beautiful scenery all the way.

      We also did a couple of tunnels. The Veggjald Tunnel before we reached Akureyi, seven kilometres long, was modern and had a lane each way, and a toll to go with it. Interestingly, its construction was delayed by the ingress of geothermal hot water, and this heat causes the temperature in the tunnel to reach 26 degrees at times.

      The other two were single lane, meaning you had to judge the speed and distance of the oncoming headlights before deciding whether on not to aim for the next passing refuge or keep waiting. Five kilometres of this nerve wracking activity were more than enough.

      Finally, we walked a little way along a muddy farm path to Grafarkirkja, turf roofed and the oldest church in Iceland.      Читать далее

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    • Chris DicksonПутешественникIceland 2024
      Path to the glacier
      Some of Iceland's stock of stonesGlacier Lagoon1Recently upturned g&t ingredient2Diamond Beach1Diamonds are a girl's best friend

      Brieodalsvik

      18–19 авг. 2024, Исландия ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      For a change, no waterfalls today. Excluding, of course, the ever-ending unnamed streams that cascade down the side of the cliffs whichever way you turn.

      Today was glacier day, and we started by visiting Vatnajokull National Park. The Vatnajokull Ice Cap covers fifteen per cent of Iceland, although on our walk to the glaciers it was repeatedly evident that it is shrinking at an ever-faster rate.

      The walk took us to a magnificent viewpoint at the junction of three glaciers - all names unpronounceable - before we took in a few more glacier facts on the way back to the cars.

      The landscape as we drove along was a fascinating changing mix, from seemingly manicured grassy hills, to barren rock and gravel, to rock covered in a spongy moss-like plant. Iceland has the market for rocks and stones cornered, but almost no trees, as these were all burned for charcoal but in the Viking days and they sort of haven’t come back yet.

      And then, the incredible Glacier Lagoon.

      We parked the car, walked to the water and were confronted by hundreds (well, maybe tens) of chunks of ice - the biggest maybe ten metres long - that had carved off the glaciers and were waiting on the tide to take them out to sea.

      As they floated around they would occasionally turn turtle, showing off their bright blue underwater colour for a while.

      A short walk away was Diamond Beach. Black sand isn’t beautiful, but it can be made to look that way by pieces of ice laying all over it.

      And that was it for the day. We stayed at a fishing lodge, with a sitting room adorned with stuffed animals and intrepid fisherpeople putting on their cold weather gear and looking determined to enjoy themselves.      Читать далее

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    • Chris DicksonПутешественникIceland 2024
      View from the hotel window - Hella
      Seljalandsfoss, with people behind in outdoor showerNatural fountain - Seljalandsfoss1Skogar Outdoor Museum1Turf housesUpstairsDownstairsReynisfjara Black Sand Beach2Hotel Laki, Kirkjubaerklaustur

      Kirkjubaerklaustur

      16–17 авг. 2024, Исландия ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

      Told you it was unpronounceable.

      We woke at Hella to a clear day, a fast running river and a couple of fishermen, before hitting the road again.

      First stop today was Seljalandsfoss, sixty metres tall and with a path that allows people - at least those who brought their rain gear - to walk behind the water.

      Not only was the main waterfall a torrent, there were even jets of water coming out of the ground, so sodden was the earth and so intense the pressure. The amount of water that must rain on Iceland each year is incredible.

      For a change, we then visited a museum - the Skogar Museum in fact. There were a number of sections. The Technological Museum was of interest only to those who already have a collection of vintage mobile telephones. The Outdoor Museum had a collection of turf houses and demonstrated the upstairs downstairs hierarchy of Icelandic life - upstairs (and incredibly cramped) for the humans, downstairs for the animals.

      Moving on, on what were becoming incredibly busy days, we reached Reynisfjara black sand beach.

      It was an attractive setting, with cliffs and pinnacles and hundreds of tourists ignoring the signs warning of the dangerous beach conditions.

      However, one person’s black sand is another person’s dirt, and it’s unlikely Bondi will have much competition from its darker cousins.

      Then a trip to Vik, a small town where we raided the Vinbudin - the state-run liquor monopoly - and stocked up on wine, beer, bread and cheese.

      The day closed with a fun wine, beer, bread and cheese session on the verandah of our hotel. Spending time in a unique and wonderful country, with snow covered mountains in the distance and good friends up close - what could be better?      Читать далее

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    • Chris DicksonПутешественникIceland 2024
      Oxarafosss at Thingvellir
      2Old people at Oxarafoss, ThingvellirSharon, Don and DaveUsed to be a path down below here until it collapsed some time agoThingvellirGullfossGullfossSmelly hot water at GeysirGeysir at GeysirKerid Crater

      Hella

      15–16 авг. 2024, Исландия ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

      We disembarked from Norwegian Prima in pouring rain, picked up a couple of hire cars and, with the Brickwoods, the Roffes and the Websters, set out to drive around the island.

      First stop was a biggie, Thingvellir National Park. The site of Iceland’s first parliament, all the way back in 930 - a mere 1,094 years ago, and the site of its 1944 Declaration of Independence from Denmark.

      It’s also on Iceland’s largest underground lake and the boundary between the North-American and Eurasian tectonic plates, meaning there is water aplenty and some fascinating landscapes caused by the bumping and grinding of the ground.

      From there, Gullfoss. No need to worry about the light rain, the spray from the falls got us plenty wet anyway. There was lots of water and it was reminiscent of a small Victoria Falls in the way it fell into a narrow, diagonal ravine. It was quite incredible.

      From there, Geysir. A bit more rain, this time concealed by the sulphuric-smelling steam rising from the ground, which was awash with near-boiling water. Geysir is the original for which all the rest in the world are named, but the original got blocked up because people kept filling it with rocks to see how high they would go. Not to worry, though, the current one is still one of the highest shooters in the world.

      The rain was a bit set in by then, so are final stop, Kerid Crater, was a bit cursory, a 55-metre deep, 170 metre wide crater with water at its bottom that even in with the grey skies was an almost radiant blue.

      Then a major disaster, we arrived in town after Vinbudin, the state-run liquor monopoly, had closed for the day. So a first alcohol-free day for the month of August!

      We move on east tomorrow, destination an unpronounceable Icelandic name.      Читать далее

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    • Chris DicksonПутешественникIceland 2024
      Harpa
      The old harbour area"Pufa", or at least as close as we got to itSharon and another blockheadCity HallRainbow StreetRainbow Street leading to the cathedralThe magnificent HallgrimskirkjaLeif Erikson, having finished raping and pillaging, discovering America and designing mobile phones"Sun Voyager"

      Reykjavik

      14–15 авг. 2024, Исландия ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      Our cruise, and all the decadence, luxury and excessive consumption that it entails, was coming to an end, sadly, but before our last night on board we got out to explore Reykjavik.

      The impression it gives is of a modern city - although small at a population of 240,000 - that is a happy blend of historic and new and where everything fits in.

      We started with Harpa, a modernistic performance space and conference centre, all angles and coloured glass and perched right on the water’s edge.

      Then we looked in at the historic port area, with lots of informative signage and a view of “Pufa”, an interesting installation consisting of a mound with a spiral path leading to its top. Must mean something.

      We set off to walk to Pufa, but took a wrong turn and ended up with about forty metres of water between us and it, so gave up on the idea.

      We had a look at the lake that occupies a few blocks in the centre of town, with the maligned but somehow appropriate City Hall building nestled alongside it.

      The Roman Catholic cathedral is nice in an Icelandic-austere sort of way, but pales into insignificance once you see its Lutheran counterpart standing on top of an even bigger hill and towering over the whole city.

      In Reykjavik it somehow seems appropriate that Rainbow Street, the city’s symbol of support for the Pride Movement, leads straight on and upward to Hallgrimskirkja, the aforementioned Lutheran Cathedral.

      It took forty years to build the church, completed in 1986, and if you like magnificent towering buildings with curves that are just right (think Eiffel Tower) it was time and money well spent.

      A quick look at “Sun Voyager”, a stainless steel boat statue on the waterfront, and were back on our own boat for our last night, one spent packing and having a last pleasant meal and too much to drink with our wonderful group of friends.      Читать далее

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    • Chris DicksonПутешественникIceland 2024
      Arriving
      Main Street, IsafjordurMemorial for Drowned Fishermen (1974)Back home again...

      Isafjordur

      13–14 авг. 2024, Исландия ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

      Tucked up in the north-west corner of Iceland, at the head of the pretty Skutulsfjordur fjord, lies Isafjordur, population 3,230, or 230 once the ship sailed out.

      It’s a launching point for excursions to different places, and quite nice, with some pretty buildings - and some quite industrial and ugly - and a nice, neat little main street area.

      We walked downtown - about a hundred metres - then back around the waterfront and by a zig zag route to the ship.

      And that was it. It was very nice, though. And it barely rained at all.      Читать далее

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