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Iceland 2024
  • Chris Dickson
Jul – Sep 2024

Iceland 2024

A 41-day adventure by Chris Read more
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  • Trip start
    July 26, 2024
    Chris DicksonTravelerIceland 2024
    Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden
    Meiji Jingu - the Meiji Shrine1Saki Barrels - only decorative, no actual sakiAnamori Inari - our local area

    Hello Tokyo

    Jul 27–29, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 35 °C

    Our stopover on this trip was Tokyo, where we had a relaxing day amongst the trees and gardens of the city.

    From Shinjuku Station - the world’s busiest, with around four million people passing through a day - it was an easy walk to the Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden, or at least it would have been, had it not been over thirty degrees and steamy.

    We enjoyed the garden, though, especially the beautifully groomed Japanese section, and after a light lunch we sweated our way over to the Meiji Shrine.

    Located in 170 acres of parkland with about 120,000 trees, it was awash with people there either to worship or to have a day out.

    The shrine dates back to 1921, and commemorates the rule of Emperor Meiji who died in 1912. The allies bombed it to bits in the war and it was rebuilt in 1956.

    We took a few pics of the shrine and the barrels of French wine and saki on display - saki barrels are a common shrine decoration but the wine casks symbolise Emperor Meiji’s innovative embracing of foreign concepts and influences - before walking down to the station to get the train back to our hotel. Well, actually, we caught the train back to the airport, because we got on the wrong one. Otherwise, though, we had a great - if stifling - day in Tokyo.

    Our local area was quite picturesque, too.    Read more

  • Chris DicksonTravelerIceland 2024
    "The Arch", Henry Moore, 1979, in Kensington Gardens
    Potter, H, on the Nimbus 5000"The Flooded Garden", Oscar Murillo, 2024, in the Tate ModernDulux, in the Tate ModernThe atmospheric Leadenhall MarketHampton Court Palace and gardensHampton Court interiorHampton Court interiorHampton Court Palace gardens1The former Battersea Power Station, from the boat back to London

    London Calling

    Jul 29–Aug 1, 2024 in England ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    After almost fifteen hours on a plane, we hadn’t planned to sit down and relax for over an hour waiting for our bags to appear. However, after a couple of drinks in the fabulous beer garden at our hotel all was forgiven and we were ready to explore.

    Having already seen most of the A-list London attractions on previous visits, we spent the next day walking and looking at things we hadn’t seen before.

    It was a hot day as we walked through Kensington Gardens and down to Leicester Square, complete with statues of Paddington Bear, Harry Potter, Mary Poppins and sundry other stars of stage and screen.

    Then came Trafalgar Square (the first time we had seen it in fine weather, actually) and, across the Jubilee Bridge and along the Thames riverbank, the Tate Modern, in the cleverly repurposed Bankside Power Station.

    We took in the varied art, from the weirdly interesting to what seemed like the template for a Dulux colour card, before a walk up to Leadenhall Market and our return to West Ealing, and our new favourite beer garden.

    Our final London activity was a trip to Hampton Court Palace, dating from 1529 in Henry VIII’s reign, and then hugely extended and modified by William III in the 1690’s.

    Informative audio guides in our ears, we enjoyed the whole experience, from Henry VIII’s bedrooms to his kitchen (complete with fake legs of mutton and a real cooking fire) and from William III’s apartments to the magnificent gardens.

    We then made our way home by way of the River Thames, an interesting few hours cruising down the river through the locks.

    Truth be told, interesting or not, the Thames isn’t exactly the most scenic of rivers. We alternately passed terribly expensive houses and apartments, beached vessels in various stages of disrepair on the muddy riverbank and kids swimming and cavorting in the heat of the afternoon.

    So ended our short London stay. Next stop, Portsmouth.    Read more

  • Chris DicksonTravelerIceland 2024
    The Spinnaker Tower
    HovercraftRyde Pier, 681 metres long and the world's first pleasure pierIsle of Wight, looking back to PortsmouthHMS AllianceCompletely bizarre arcade game, the victim's head lights up when the switch is thrownOn board HMS VictoryHMS Victory gun deckRemaining half of the Mary RoseRemaining half of the Mary Rose's dog

    Portsmouth Hornpipe

    Aug 1–4, 2024 in England ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We’ve just crammed quite a bit into two-and-a-half days in Portsmouth.

    It was hot for most of our visit, summer school holidays and accordingly crowded, both at the historic attractions and the modern-day parts of the waterfront area.

    These are interspersed, so it was interesting to walk along, one minute passing the futuristic, touristy Spinnaker Tower, the next passing by the Camber, now a small fishing port but originally the site of the first Norman settlement in the area.

    Our walk continued south, past the historic fortifications of Portsmouth Harbour, the occupants being somewhat paranoid about the French. We passed the Round Tower (1426) and the Square Tower (1494) and associated fortifications, then the ruined Domus Dei Royal Garrison Church - founded as a hospice for pilgrims in 1212 - came into very photogenic sight, and from there we walked on to Clarence Pier.

    The pier was first-rate tacky, crowded with tattooed people eating chips and hotdogs between amusement rides.

    Just past the pier was the hovercraft landing stage. The world’s only commercial operating hovercraft service, and the only seagoing craft that requires a pilot’s licence to operate, we saw them come and go frequently as they shuttled back and forth to the Isle of Wight.

    Speaking of which, we took a ferry across to the island for a day of riding around on the bus. It was a pleasant day; we sailed across to Ryde, walked to the shore via its 681-metre pier and did a quick tour of the north-east part of the island. From the slightly elevated interior the views back across to Portsmouth were magnificent; on the island there was some nice coastline and plenty of elegant-if-faded lodges.

    Finally, we spent a day at the Portsmouth Historic Dockyard.

    We took a water bus across to Gosport and toured the WW2 submarine HMS Alliance, for which Sharon, claustrophobic, probably set the record internal bow-to-stern submarine sprint.

    Climbing through the innards of HMS Victory was fascinating, listening to the story of the Battle of Trafalgar as we went. Not listening too intently, though, as there was a constant chance you might bump you head or trip over something.

    Finally, we looked at the Mary Rose, or at least the half a Mary Rose they dug out of The Solent in the 1970’s. It looks all majestic in its dimly lighted, humidity-controlled environment, and each level of the sip is related to artefacts recovered at the same time, including the skeleton of the ship’s dog.

    All in all, we had quite a busy but enjoyable few days before setting sail on our cruise.    Read more

  • Chris DicksonTravelerIceland 2024
    Norwegian Prima in Southampton
    1Bruges Markt SquareProvincial Hof, in the Markt SquareThe Church of Our Lady (13th-15th centuries)

    Bruges

    Aug 5–6, 2024 in Belgium ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    It was great to arrive yesterday in Southampton and get (a fair bit of) the band back together on board MS Norwegian Prima, the ugly, floating block of flats that is to take us to Iceland.

    Once we got our bearings, found our cabins and totally abused the free drinks packages, we had dinner, fell asleep and awoke ready to visit Bruges.

    Once we had caught the shuttle to town - about a thirty-minute trip - we joined about ten thousand (small exaggeration) other tourists on the well-trodden path around the town, over bridges, through squares and past chocolate shops.

    Even with all the people, it was a beautiful place to see, with its canals winding all around the centre of town. Every bridge, even every glimpse of a canal provides another opportunity for the ten thousand phones, cameras and selfie sticks.

    We walked to the Markt Square, with its Bell Tower dating from 1240 and rows of buildings looking typically Belgian in their stone work and decoration.

    Then, on to the Burg, an enclosed fortress in the tenth century and another attractive town square today before we made our way back past the Dijver, a strip of park alongside the canal, to the Church of Our Lady - with the third tallest brick tower in the world - and finally the the lovely Minniewater Park to our starting point.    Read more

  • Chris DicksonTravelerIceland 2024
    Amsterdam Centraal Station
    Attractive building in Dam Square - now a wax museum!Attractive building near Dam Square - now a shopping centre!Salvaged and tastefully refurbished bicycleThe Flower MarketSomething interesting at the Flower Market - don't know whatSome but not all the Amsterdam visitors

    Amsterdam

    Aug 6–7, 2024 in the Netherlands ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    We have to keep remembering that it’s summer, and the peak of the tourist season. Therefore, everything’s hot and crowded, the hot part being ironic on a cruise to Iceland.

    We kicked off Amsterdam with a cruise of the canals, stuffed into the boat like sardines and, in our case, in the unshaded, stiflingly hot part of the boat. Enough complaining, though, as the trip and the commentary were excellent.

    We sailed up the Prinsengracht Canal, heard about the millions of wooden piles that support the buildings of Amsterdam and admired the crooked buildings that result from holding a building up in soggy ground using wooden piles.

    Then, landed, we made our way up to Dam Square and a most imposing Royal Palace, or at least a Royal Palace covered in most imposing scaffolding. It probably was due for some TLC, mind you, having been built in 1655. The Dutch monarch is well catered for in the palace department, having this and two others to choose from for his digs.

    In order to give some purpose to our wanderings, we then headed to the Flower Market, or, in the season of our visit, the Bulb, Seed and Souvenir Market. Lining a whole block of the Singel Canal, It was crowded with tourists - and, no doubt, pickpockets - and a nice change from the usual canal-side scenery of parked cars and salvaged, muddy, rusty bicycles.

    On our way back, we saw more of the free and easy side of Amsterdam, passing dope shops, “cookie” shops and sex shops in plenty. And this right in the respectable middle of town.

     Before long, our sweaty bodies and aching feet were back on board the ship, ingesting fluids - mainly alcoholic - and getting ready for dinner.

    Our last treat for the day was the passage through the lock, out of the Ij and back into the North Sea. It was incredible to see a hundred thousand tons of steel, plastic and expanding waistlines squeeze into a lock only a few metres wider than the ship without the slightest scrape.

    The days are getting longer - sunrise is at ten to six tomorrow morning and sunset at quarter to nine at night.

    Tomorrow we are at sea, most likely overindulging; the next footprint will be Bergen.    Read more

  • Chris DicksonTravelerIceland 2024
    2The walk from the port
    Fish delicacyBryggenBryggenA goat2MV Norwegian PrimaView from Mt FloyenBergen Opera

    Bergen

    Aug 8–9, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Although it is the second city of Norway with a population of around 290,000, Bergen is a perfect destination for a cruise ship - very scenic and with all its main sights concentrated in quite a small area.

    Add to this World Heritage status for the Bryggen dock area and you have an excellent spot to wander around trying to keep dry in the sporadic rain showers.

    We wandered into town up and down narrow cobblestoned streets, lined with pastel-painted timber houses and looking very nice in the slightly misty atmosphere.

    Then, the Fish Market, or more appropriately, the Fish and Other Yucky Things Market, with whale salami and moose and reindeer meat on sale as well.

    Further around Byfjorden, the neat little inlet surrounded by the old town, was Bryggen, a row of old painted timber warehouses repurposed into tourist traps but picturesque nonetheless. Rebuilt in parts after regular fires, most recently in 1955, they were apparently hammered together by carpenters for whom the ninety-degree angle was a foreign concept.

    In increasingly dodgy weather, we then made our way to the Floibanen, a funicular railway which took us up 300 metres up Mt Floyen, something of an oasis in the city and made up of spectacular views, shops, walking tracks and goats.

    The modern city, a short walk from the old town, is also attractive, with broad streets and squares and some nice buildings.

    Tonight we sail north and enter Geraingerfjord, which should make for some spectacular views for a few days.    Read more

  • Chris DicksonTravelerIceland 2024
    Sailing up the fjord, around six am, careful steering required
    First views of GeirangerThe ship and its motley crewCascading river and the steps to the Fjord CentreView from the Fjord CentreLast view - about nine pmReturning along Geirangerfjord

    Geiranger

    Aug 9–10, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    It was an awesome sight, waking early, looking out the window and seeing the cliffs of the fjord towering over the ship as we sailed through the narrow and twisting passage. The weather was threatening, which gave the whole scene an atmosphere of remoteness and unspoilt beauty.

    This was the Geirangerfjord, and at its inner end was Geiranger, a small village of 250 people, about a hundred motor homes and, once we arrived, 3,000 day trippers.

    Naturally, it was raining as we climbed a steep metal staircase alongside a rushing river cascading down the hill. At the top was the Fjord Visitor Centre, with ten dollar coffees and an interesting museum showcasing the people, nature and geology of the remote, UNESCO World Heritage, area. An avalanche in 1934 caused a tsunami sixty metres high in the nearby Tafjord, so nature here is clearly a force to be reckoned with.

    The cliffs of the fjord rise 1,400 metres above the sea in places (and 500 metres below). Therefore we were looking forward to watching our progress back out of the fjord. We were a little disappointed, then, when a group of late returners delayed our nine pm departure. We were then a little more disappointed when the weather closed in and, before we had done our u-turn to get under way, it was pouring. The result was a whole bunch of dark photos and a return to the bar for some more imbibing.

    Our short overnight passage took us to the mouth of the fjord and Allesund, our next destination.    Read more

  • Chris DicksonTravelerIceland 2024

    Alesund

    Aug 10–11, 2024 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    We awoke to a view of beautiful pastel-coloured art nouveau buildings, a small port area and a lot of rain.

    A large part of Alesund was destroyed by fire in 1904, and was then rebuilt in a consistent and very attractive style, with the added benefit of sanitation. The town centre is pedestrian-friendly, if cobblestoned, with an irregular street pattern that lends even more interest to it.

    We made our way to Storhaugen, a viewpoint to the west of town looking down on the old harbour area, then clambered down an overgrown trail to the waterfront, with a breakwater and a small lighthouse which now serves as the honeymoon suite for a local hotel.

    Then it was time for some more ten dollar coffees - heaven only know what we’ll do when we have to start paying for food and alcohol on shore as well - before walking a few more blocks and making our way back to the ship. The rain had, of course, finished by the time we were heading back.

    Our departure was at five o’clock, by which time the wind had strengthened and it was not pleasant out on deck.

    As soon as we left the coast we turned north-west toward Iceland, a day and a half’s sailing away. The swell wasn’t very big, but with the strong winds buffeting the twelve storeys of Prima that are above the water there was quite a bit of lurching about going on, both by the ship and the passengers, even some of the sober ones.

    It was too much for Sharon, who sensibly turned in early, and through the night the weather improved so that our sea day was much more gentle.    Read more

  • Chris DicksonTravelerIceland 2024
    Even the garbage bins dress warm
    Akureyi Main StreetAkureyi botanical gardenPlant life in the gardenAkureyi architectureThe museumAntique MieleInside Nonni's house

    Akureyri

    Aug 12–13, 2024 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Overnight, we briefly sailed north of the Arctic Circle before arriving in Akureyi around seven o’clock on a calm, dry but rather cold morning.

    Iceland’s largest city outside the Capital Region, absolutely heaving with a population of about 20,000, it’s quite a pretty little town, once past the port area - this one with an interesting aroma about it, a heady mix of fertiliser, stale fish and varnish.

    We walked downtown to a very picturesque, pedestrianised main drag. Among its many attractive buildings was the perfect travellers’ facility - a combined hostel, laundromat and Irish Pub, with a kebab shop next door.

    A short walk further on was the immaculately maintained botanical garden, founded in 1910 to beautify the city and, at fifty kilometres below the Arctic Circle, one of the world’s most northerly.

    We walked on past houses of different styles and materials, corrugated iron, pressed tin and concrete among them.

    Finally we came to the Akureyi Museum. It was interesting, with lots of social features on entertainment, shopping and celebrations. Ash Wednesday was a big one; the children would tie ashes on to each other’s backs and “scare a cat out of a barrel”, whatever that entailed. Come to think of it, there were some rather traumatised-looking cats around, too.

    Jon Sveinsson, aka “Nonni”, was a Jesuit Priest and well-known children’s author. His home, one of the oldest in town and built around 1840, has been situated next to the museum and we poked our noses through his stuff on the way out. It was a good experience for us short-statured people, as his house was full of incredibly low doorways and beams.    Read more

  • Chris DicksonTravelerIceland 2024
    Arriving
    Main Street, IsafjordurMemorial for Drowned Fishermen (1974)Back home again...

    Isafjordur

    Aug 13–14, 2024 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Tucked up in the north-west corner of Iceland, at the head of the pretty Skutulsfjordur fjord, lies Isafjordur, population 3,230, or 230 once the ship sailed out.

    It’s a launching point for excursions to different places, and quite nice, with some pretty buildings - and some quite industrial and ugly - and a nice, neat little main street area.

    We walked downtown - about a hundred metres - then back around the waterfront and by a zig zag route to the ship.

    And that was it. It was very nice, though. And it barely rained at all.    Read more

  • Chris DicksonTravelerIceland 2024
    Harpa
    The old harbour area"Pufa", or at least as close as we got to itSharon and another blockheadCity HallRainbow StreetRainbow Street leading to the cathedralThe magnificent HallgrimskirkjaLeif Erikson, having finished raping and pillaging, discovering America and designing mobile phones"Sun Voyager"

    Reykjavik

    Aug 14–15, 2024 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Our cruise, and all the decadence, luxury and excessive consumption that it entails, was coming to an end, sadly, but before our last night on board we got out to explore Reykjavik.

    The impression it gives is of a modern city - although small at a population of 240,000 - that is a happy blend of historic and new and where everything fits in.

    We started with Harpa, a modernistic performance space and conference centre, all angles and coloured glass and perched right on the water’s edge.

    Then we looked in at the historic port area, with lots of informative signage and a view of “Pufa”, an interesting installation consisting of a mound with a spiral path leading to its top. Must mean something.

    We set off to walk to Pufa, but took a wrong turn and ended up with about forty metres of water between us and it, so gave up on the idea.

    We had a look at the lake that occupies a few blocks in the centre of town, with the maligned but somehow appropriate City Hall building nestled alongside it.

    The Roman Catholic cathedral is nice in an Icelandic-austere sort of way, but pales into insignificance once you see its Lutheran counterpart standing on top of an even bigger hill and towering over the whole city.

    In Reykjavik it somehow seems appropriate that Rainbow Street, the city’s symbol of support for the Pride Movement, leads straight on and upward to Hallgrimskirkja, the aforementioned Lutheran Cathedral.

    It took forty years to build the church, completed in 1986, and if you like magnificent towering buildings with curves that are just right (think Eiffel Tower) it was time and money well spent.

    A quick look at “Sun Voyager”, a stainless steel boat statue on the waterfront, and were back on our own boat for our last night, one spent packing and having a last pleasant meal and too much to drink with our wonderful group of friends.    Read more

  • Chris DicksonTravelerIceland 2024
    Oxarafosss at Thingvellir
    2Old people at Oxarafoss, ThingvellirSharon, Don and DaveUsed to be a path down below here until it collapsed some time agoThingvellirGullfossGullfossSmelly hot water at GeysirGeysir at GeysirKerid Crater

    Hella

    Aug 15–16, 2024 in Iceland ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    We disembarked from Norwegian Prima in pouring rain, picked up a couple of hire cars and, with the Brickwoods, the Roffes and the Websters, set out to drive around the island.

    First stop was a biggie, Thingvellir National Park. The site of Iceland’s first parliament, all the way back in 930 - a mere 1,094 years ago, and the site of its 1944 Declaration of Independence from Denmark.

    It’s also on Iceland’s largest underground lake and the boundary between the North-American and Eurasian tectonic plates, meaning there is water aplenty and some fascinating landscapes caused by the bumping and grinding of the ground.

    From there, Gullfoss. No need to worry about the light rain, the spray from the falls got us plenty wet anyway. There was lots of water and it was reminiscent of a small Victoria Falls in the way it fell into a narrow, diagonal ravine. It was quite incredible.

    From there, Geysir. A bit more rain, this time concealed by the sulphuric-smelling steam rising from the ground, which was awash with near-boiling water. Geysir is the original for which all the rest in the world are named, but the original got blocked up because people kept filling it with rocks to see how high they would go. Not to worry, though, the current one is still one of the highest shooters in the world.

    The rain was a bit set in by then, so are final stop, Kerid Crater, was a bit cursory, a 55-metre deep, 170 metre wide crater with water at its bottom that even in with the grey skies was an almost radiant blue.

    Then a major disaster, we arrived in town after Vinbudin, the state-run liquor monopoly, had closed for the day. So a first alcohol-free day for the month of August!

    We move on east tomorrow, destination an unpronounceable Icelandic name.    Read more

  • Chris DicksonTravelerIceland 2024
    View from the hotel window - Hella
    Seljalandsfoss, with people behind in outdoor showerNatural fountain - Seljalandsfoss1Skogar Outdoor Museum1Turf housesUpstairsDownstairsReynisfjara Black Sand Beach2Hotel Laki, Kirkjubaerklaustur

    Kirkjubaerklaustur

    Aug 16–17, 2024 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Told you it was unpronounceable.

    We woke at Hella to a clear day, a fast running river and a couple of fishermen, before hitting the road again.

    First stop today was Seljalandsfoss, sixty metres tall and with a path that allows people - at least those who brought their rain gear - to walk behind the water.

    Not only was the main waterfall a torrent, there were even jets of water coming out of the ground, so sodden was the earth and so intense the pressure. The amount of water that must rain on Iceland each year is incredible.

    For a change, we then visited a museum - the Skogar Museum in fact. There were a number of sections. The Technological Museum was of interest only to those who already have a collection of vintage mobile telephones. The Outdoor Museum had a collection of turf houses and demonstrated the upstairs downstairs hierarchy of Icelandic life - upstairs (and incredibly cramped) for the humans, downstairs for the animals.

    Moving on, on what were becoming incredibly busy days, we reached Reynisfjara black sand beach.

    It was an attractive setting, with cliffs and pinnacles and hundreds of tourists ignoring the signs warning of the dangerous beach conditions.

    However, one person’s black sand is another person’s dirt, and it’s unlikely Bondi will have much competition from its darker cousins.

    Then a trip to Vik, a small town where we raided the Vinbudin - the state-run liquor monopoly - and stocked up on wine, beer, bread and cheese.

    The day closed with a fun wine, beer, bread and cheese session on the verandah of our hotel. Spending time in a unique and wonderful country, with snow covered mountains in the distance and good friends up close - what could be better?    Read more

  • Chris DicksonTravelerIceland 2024
    Path to the glacier
    Some of Iceland's stock of stonesGlacier Lagoon1Recently upturned g&t ingredient2Diamond Beach1Diamonds are a girl's best friend

    Brieodalsvik

    Aug 18–19, 2024 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    For a change, no waterfalls today. Excluding, of course, the ever-ending unnamed streams that cascade down the side of the cliffs whichever way you turn.

    Today was glacier day, and we started by visiting Vatnajokull National Park. The Vatnajokull Ice Cap covers fifteen per cent of Iceland, although on our walk to the glaciers it was repeatedly evident that it is shrinking at an ever-faster rate.

    The walk took us to a magnificent viewpoint at the junction of three glaciers - all names unpronounceable - before we took in a few more glacier facts on the way back to the cars.

    The landscape as we drove along was a fascinating changing mix, from seemingly manicured grassy hills, to barren rock and gravel, to rock covered in a spongy moss-like plant. Iceland has the market for rocks and stones cornered, but almost no trees, as these were all burned for charcoal but in the Viking days and they sort of haven’t come back yet.

    And then, the incredible Glacier Lagoon.

    We parked the car, walked to the water and were confronted by hundreds (well, maybe tens) of chunks of ice - the biggest maybe ten metres long - that had carved off the glaciers and were waiting on the tide to take them out to sea.

    As they floated around they would occasionally turn turtle, showing off their bright blue underwater colour for a while.

    A short walk away was Diamond Beach. Black sand isn’t beautiful, but it can be made to look that way by pieces of ice laying all over it.

    And that was it for the day. We stayed at a fishing lodge, with a sitting room adorned with stuffed animals and intrepid fisherpeople putting on their cold weather gear and looking determined to enjoy themselves.    Read more

  • Chris DicksonTravelerIceland 2024
    Dimmuborgir Lava Field
    A genuine 100% real Yule Lads encampmentLake MyvatnGodafossVista near SiglufjordurGrafarkirkja

    Hvammstangi

    Aug 19–20, 2024 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Our personal Icelandic saga continued in better weather at Dimmuborgir Lava Field, where we wandered around looking at fascinating contorted rock formations and some crappy stuff about the Yule Lads, possibly ancient Iceland’s answer to the Bay City Rollers.

    We then called at Lake Myvatin, where we walked to a couple of viewpoints and admired the twisting foreshore of the lake and its many islands. A shallow lake, it was created 2,300 years ago by - funnily enough for Iceland - a volcanic eruption.

    Next up was Godafoss, yet another spectacular waterfall, this one handsome in a nice setting and on a dry day.

    Then, a drive up around the peninsula to Siglufjordur, easily the farthest north we had travelled in Iceland and beautiful scenery all the way.

    We also did a couple of tunnels. The Veggjald Tunnel before we reached Akureyi, seven kilometres long, was modern and had a lane each way, and a toll to go with it. Interestingly, its construction was delayed by the ingress of geothermal hot water, and this heat causes the temperature in the tunnel to reach 26 degrees at times.

    The other two were single lane, meaning you had to judge the speed and distance of the oncoming headlights before deciding whether on not to aim for the next passing refuge or keep waiting. Five kilometres of this nerve wracking activity were more than enough.

    Finally, we walked a little way along a muddy farm path to Grafarkirkja, turf roofed and the oldest church in Iceland.    Read more

  • Chris DicksonTravelerIceland 2024
    No name, just a typical Icelandic roadside waterfall
    Another example of Icelandic terrainThe walk to DettifossDettifossDettifossDettifossAsbyrgi CanyonHusavik

    Husavik

    Aug 20–21, 2024 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Leaving the fisherpeople to their pursuits, we drove through increasingly scenic country, and increasingly dodgy weather to Faskrudfjordur, a tiny town with quite a connection to France, mainly due to thee hospital which served until 1935 to treat French fishermen. Even the street signs are still bilingual.

    We pushed on in increasing rain, driving along what in fine weather would have been a magnificent coastal drive. The view was enhanced, but the passengers alarmed, as the road skirted the steep cliffs. As on most of Iceland’s roads there was little or no space on the roadside.

    The weather was pretty bad by the time we reached Dettifoss, Europe’s second most powerful waterfall at 44 metres high and 100 wide and an average of 136 cubic metres disappearing over it every second. Only the Rheinfall is bigger.

    Despite the wet and freezing cold walk to the falls, they were a sight to behold, with the spray being blown every which way and hordes of visitors hunched over against the wind as they took their selfies.

    On that note, it is summer, and therefore peak season in Iceland. This apparently means huge crowds everywhere. Car parks are full, and there is virtually no chance of taking a photo without a few random heads or arms in it. The roads are crowded with motor homes.

    Our last stopover was Asbyrgi Canyon, a green, hundred metre deep oasis in the treeless, boulder-strewn landscape that we had driven through.

    Finally we arrived in Husavik, a neat little town that no one would have heard of had it not been put firmly on the world stage by the classic, artistic movie “Eurovision”.    Read more

  • Chris DicksonTravelerIceland 2024
    Gudrunarlaug thermal pool - rather small
    The change roomAnother random waterfallIcelandic horsesLiefer Eriksson at the Viking Longhouse1The Viking LonghouseBedding and obvious privacy inside the longhouseRandom white church - there are millions of themThe road to the westStykkisholmer

    Stykkisholmur

    Aug 20–21, 2024 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    The shortest driving day of our circumnavigation of the island, and one with few sights, meant this was a pretty easy one.

    We were interested in a swim in the thermal pool - well, maybe interested in the idea of a swim in a thermal pool, as it was about seven degrees - at Gudrunarlaug.

    After a drive of about forty minutes we arrived and walked up the pathway to a most attractive circular pool, reasonably warm and with a nice outlook over the surrounding countryside. Only problem was it was tiny; four people would have filled it up and the eight of us would have experienced a new level of intimacy had all we got in at once.

    So we skipped it, got the nice lady who was in the pool when we arrived to take a picture of us standing on the edge, and drove away the way we had come in.

    The replica Viking Longhouse, at Eiryksstadir, was quite different.

    We paid our money and walked inside a small turf building of the type used by Eric the Red and his brethren. Inside was a lady in traditional costume telling all sorts of stories of the way of life of the Vikings, from their food to their weapons to their effect on the landscape and their remarkable explorations of far flung places.

    It was a fascinating forty-five minutes or so, delivered by a lady who was clearly knowledgeable and passionate about her subject.

    It was our last night on the road and we stayed out of town at the Hotel Stundafridur.

    At six we met up to arrange a time for dinner. The gentleman took our orders and said he was leaving now, and the owners would be arriving in an hour or so. In the meantime we were to HELP OURSELVES TO THE BAR AND JUST KEEP A RECORD TO LET THEM KNOW. Haven’t had that happen in many places!    Read more

  • Chris DicksonTravelerIceland 2024
    Kirkjufell
    Waterfall in the wind at GrundafjordurNot a serial killer at HellisandurPeninsular rocks at LondrangarCold and windy at ArnastapiArnastapi1

    Back to Reykjavik

    Aug 21–22, 2024 in Iceland ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

    We had a rushed and rather unpleasant drive around the Snaefellsnes Peninsula to finish off our Iceland road trip.

    This was a pity, because the scenery was outstanding on this very westerly outcrop of land. But it was eight degrees and the icy wind - strong enough to make it very hard to open the car doors (or dangerously easy, in the other direction) - brought the “seems like” temperature down to about two. So it wasn’t a day for a relaxing stroll admiring the vistas along the coast.

    So we looked in at Hellissandur, Iceland’s self-proclaimed street art capital. Who thought a mural about Iceland’s most famous serial killer was a good idea?

    We did stop at a couple of viewpoints along the way, stagger out to the shoreline and take a few photos. Of the puffins said to inhabit the area, we saw none; they were much too smart to be out in that sort of weather.

    So our drive finished with a long, tedious drive back to Reykjavik, trying to control cars buffetted by the wind and finally trying to find our hotel in the surprisingly heavy late afternoon traffic.

    Soon enough, we were in a Mexican Restaurant, drinking some beers and reminiscing about the week we had just spent together. With Gary and Jan leaving for Belgium the following day that would leave just six to carry on the the next part of the journey, back in Norway.    Read more

  • Chris DicksonTravelerIceland 2024
    Narrow passage near Bergen
    SognefjordThe FlamsbanaKjosfossenSiren of the falls, or some such crap

    Back to Bergen and Beyond

    Aug 22–24, 2024 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    We have made our way to Oslo now, by a flight to Bergen for a pleasant overnight stay, then a terrific, scenic day on a ferry and some trains to make our way to Oslo.

    In cool and cloudy - but dry - weather, the Norled ferry left Bergen and threaded its way between a myriad of Norwegian islands to the Sognefjord, Norway’s biggest at an average 5 kilometres wide and an incredible 1,000 metres deep for over 100 kilometres of its 200 kilometre length.

    The scenery was amazing, especially as we sailed away from Bergen and then as we reached the upper reaches of the fjord, where the cliffs were steep and dotted with some spectacular waterfalls.

    We disembarked at Flam, a tiny town that nowadays owes its existence to the Flam Railway, the classic train ride we were about to take.

    But first we took a quick look around the town and its quite interesting railway museum, along with thousands of people from a cruise ship that was berthed in the fjord. No point complaining, though, when a bit over a week ago we were invading similar tiny towns from a cruising behemoth ourselves.

    The Flamsbana itself was a very scenic twenty kilometres up steep hills, through hand-hewn tunnels and with incredible valley views on both sides of the train.

    About half way up is Reinunga Station, with the Kjosfossen Waterfall and a quick floor show - music and a lady in an elegant red dress dancing in the nearby hills near the falls. Actually, it was a long way off, so it could just have easily been a man in an elegant red dress.

    The Flam Railway terminates at Myrdal, where we boarded a regular train for a long four hours or so to Oslo, which we reached late in the evening. The day had been very long but completely enjoyable.    Read more

  • Chris DicksonTravelerIceland 2024
    Oslo Opera House
    View from the roofVigeland Sculpture ParkVigeland Sculpture Park - Attack of the Babies?Contorted naked peopleThe mind bogglesThe Folk Museum

    Oslo

    Aug 23–26, 2024 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    It was exciting to arrive in Norway’s very civilised capital city, particularly as it was about five degrees warmer than icy Iceland!

    And we enjoyed our three nights here very much, quickly adapting to the $20 beers and enjoying the unique scenery.

    The Opera House, completed in 2008, is a masterpiece in white granite and marble that seems to rise out of the water. We joined the throngs for a walk up over the roof for some unique views of the city. The foyer, with fifteen metres of glass on one side and oak cladding on the other, is simply magnificent.

    We also walked around the back of the building, past the set- and costume-design workshops, where the large windows gave a good view of these generally-hidden parts of the operation.

    Gustav Vigeland (1869 - 1943) was responsible for the Vigeland Sculpture Installation in Frognor Park, full of his statues, and a wonderful open space filled with locals (Oslonians? Osloafers?) out for a weekend walk. He may have been a little odd, based on the number of naked people that adorned the bridges, fountains and paths of the park. Too many penises at eye height!

    Once we had our fill of contorted, naked bodies, we moved on to the Norse Folk Museum and looked at some very interesting exhibits - whole interior rooms relocated from farmhouses and apartments, a 1950’s farmhouse kitchen you could walk through and endless (i.e. hundreds) barns, cowsheds, storage sheds and farmhouses in the outdoor section.

    And that was the end of the group holiday. We had a fabulous Indian meal to finish off, along with excessive drinking again, then went home to pack and get excited about the next chapter.    Read more

  • Chris DicksonTravelerIceland 2024
    Bad posture, stuck on a rock and perved at by thousands
    AmalienborgRosenborgNyhavnAgnete and the Merman - underwater statueChristiansborgChristiansborgFrederiksborgFrederiksborg interiorMeat Packing District

    Copenhagen - just the two of us

    Aug 27–30, 2024 in Denmark ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We said our farewells and left our friends to scatter to other Nordic cities, then caught the ferry to Copenhagen.

    Copenhagen on a hot Tuesday was absolutely bustling, with bikes, buses and cars (and oblivious tourists) all competing for the same road space, miraculously never touching each other.

    And it was hot. No more thinking about which jumper to take - it was shorts weather for our entire visit.

    There seemed to be so many things to see here - we looked at countless palaces and buildings and streets, all of them incredible, and still didn’t cover it all.

    But first spare a thought, if you will, for the burden that comes with being the symbol of a city. We took a look at Copenhagen’s symbol and found a tired half-lady, shoulders bowed, alone on a rock facing thousands of cameras every day. She should get a pay rise!

    Palaces they seem to have in countless numbers. We first visited Amalienborg, a residence of the second Australian member of a royal family - Dame Edna, Duchess of Moonee Ponds, having been the first- with a nice changing of the guard, then Rosenborg, with magnificent gardens. Then came the Danish seat of government at Christiansborg, with stables, a library, a parliament, you name it.

    The waterfront areas were also attractive and busy, from the old harbour area of Nyhavn to the busy waterfront near the Opera House.

    For a change from the city, we journeyed out into the country, to Hillerod, and Frederiksborg - yes, another palace. It became a museum after the Royal Family tired of one fire after another, and the tour was extensive to the point of brain-numbing, but it was a fantastic way to spend a few hours.

    The architecture seemed to epitomise Scandinavian building styles, and the gardens were magnificent in themselves.

    Near to our hotel was the Meatpacking District. Repurposed from the original meat processing factories and dating in parts from the 1800’s, it was chock full of bars, restaurants and - most importantly - an ice cream shop. The queue was out the door but the ice cream, according to good authority, was absolutely fantastic.    Read more

  • Chris DicksonTravelerIceland 2024
    Prototype Volvo, 1926. Note bumpers not yet like a dodgem car's
    Lock on the city's canal systemVintage ships at the Maritime MuseumBarken Viking (1906), biggest sailing ship built in Scandinavia, now a floating hotelLipstick, voted seven times Gothenburg's ugliest building. With good reason.The City Museum, in the former Swedish East India Company's headquartersViking ship remainsThe Gothenburg Festival of CultureCulture aficionados burping and farting by the canalNot sure, possibly the German drinking song club's get together

    Gothenburg

    Aug 30–Sep 1, 2024 in Sweden ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    There’s tons of history here in Gothenburg, from the Vikings to the foundation of the modern city in 1621 to the Volvo in 1926. Incidental fun (?) fact - “Volvo” derives from the Swedish for “I roll”, a reference to the ball and roller bearings that started the company off.

    There’s also tons of current-day fun here too, with the Gothenburg Culture Festival taking place while we were visiting.

    We were out on a morning walk when Sharon was roped in to a university activity, being forced, by some young people in rather peculiar costumes, to push a person in a shopping trolley up the street to Gotaplatsen, the city’s cultural area. Actually, she pushed it about a hundred metres, but at least she didn’t tip the jockey out like some others did. No photos, so you just have to take our word for it.

    On a beautiful sunny day, we took a boat tour of the city’s canals and out into the harbour and enjoyed some beautiful views, plenty of low bridges and even more bad jokes in the commentary.

    The maritime history is powerful here, with a massive museum full of vintage ships and a shipbuilding industry that only chucked in the towel about ten years ago.

    We also visited the city’s museum, partly because it was free due to the Culture Festival. This was interesting, but with about a day’s worth of information when we had an hour. All the same, the remains of the Viking ship were fascinating, as was a bit of more recent history.

    A fire at a disco in 1998 killed 64 people. Four people were known to be responsible, having argued with security, snuck in and, out of spite, started a fire in a stairwell full of old furniture. The city, as civilised places do, rallied as one around the bereaved, the survivors, the first responders and the carers. The stories of the aftermath of the tragedy were incredibly compelling, and, although every country has its own stories of tragedy or heroism, this one will stay with us for a long time.

    So it was then back to the Culture Festival, which consisted at least partly of hundreds of young people listening to loud music and eating greasy, fried street food.

    We met up with the Roffes, the paths of all our friends seeming to criss cross all over Scandinavia since we parted in Oslo.

    A couple of drinks near the loud music, then a nice dinner a few blocks back, gave us our fill of culture for the night.

    Next stop is our last on this trip, Stockholm.    Read more

  • Chris DicksonTravelerIceland 2024
    Riddarholmen Church, resting place of the Swedish Monarchs, on Gamla Stan
    Riksdagshuset - the Swedish ParliamentThe Swedish Royal PalaceI thought they'd be tallerThe not-so-good ship VasaWaxholmVintage steamer

    Stockholm and home

    Sep 1–4, 2024 in Sweden ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    My, how time flies! One minute we’re on the train to the airport, the next we’ve been home for four days! Anyway, for the sake of completeness here’s the last footprint that I drafted earlier.

    What an exciting, many-faceted city Stockholm proved to be!

    We’ve just spent three days admiring historic buildings and winding cobblestoned streets, looking into a couple out of a huge selection of museums and sailing out to the Stockholm archipelago for a look around a quiet and scenic outpost of the city.

    Gamla Stan is the island that contains most of the old stuff, as well as the comparatively modern Royal Palace, with its ceremonial trooping of the guards around the square, and hoards of tourists (not us) disappearing inside for various tours.

    It’s also souvenir central, should you need a fluffy reindeer or snow dome.

    Many of the museums are on another island - Djurgarden. On a damp day we walked there - the trams being temporarily out of action - and found both culture and technology.

    The ABBA Museum gave a good insight into the lives of the band members before, during and after their reign at the top. It was also, like their records, slickly commercial, with crowds in every room juggling their audio guides and cameras and jostling for some clear space.

    And life for the band members after ABBA? Well, Bjorn did Mama Mia and dabbled in real estate, but who knew that Benny is Sweden’s very own Red Wiggle? The Benny Anderson Orchestra plays regular gigs and has a few recordings to its credit as well.

    We then got wet walking to the Vasa Museum, the giant building housing the poorly designed ship that sank in Stockholm Harbour in 1628 and was raised in 1961, remarkably intact.

    It’s a huge object, and remarkably well-preserved for its 450-plus years. And, ironically, if it had been seaworthy, we wouldn’t have the opportunity to look at it today.

    Our last expedition was out to Waxholm, an hour and a quarter on the ferry from the city.

    It was a quiet, peaceful spot, and we visited on a beautiful sunny day, timing the return trip perfectly so that we not only had time for a drink before we sailed but our returning vessel was a vintage steamer, built in 1908. It was very stylish, all polished wood (and heat from the boiler), and a perfect last memory for our visit.

    And that’s that.

    We’re now - hopefully - back home enjoying a newly-renovated house and the closeness of our family, but the fun we had with our friends and the stunning places we saw over the last six weeks will be long in our memories.    Read more

    Trip end
    September 4, 2024
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