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In Search of Wine

In Search of Wine

Trying to avoid the beaten track without falling off a cliff Czytaj więcej🇨🇦Sooke
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  • In Search of WineEnd Of The WorldPodróżnik

    Shake It Up

    21 stycznia 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    "Dance all night, go to work
    Do the move with a quirky jerk. Just shake it up, oo oo". Cars

    As a kid I used to love going on all the rides at K-Days or the Western Fair. Nothing was too scary. I would get off the ride and if the line wasn't too long I would get right back on again.

    Well this 20 hour bonanza should be my dream come true. If you combined the ship ride that swung 90° degrees back and forth with a scramble ride ready to throw you to the ground or down the stairs with one wrong move, you would have the Polar Pioneer on the angry Drake.

    Step right up ladies and gentlemen!

    Seriously, it is a bit of pandemonium here, breakfast and lunch were cancelled. Washroom trips are an expedition on to themselves. Brave crew members came by with hard boiled eggs for breakfast. Lunch became a build your own sandwich for those who could make it up the stairs to the expedition lounge.

    Most people hunkered in their cabins. Sliding to the end of their bed and back again. We knew there was a risk of a proper "Drake Shake". Going down was an appetizer, today was the main course. I write this from the expedition lounge, those here counting the hours until we make it to the Beagle.

    Then around 6PM it slows down and by 7PM we are in the Beagle Channel.

    We have a goodbye briefing and watch the send off video that was put together by David. 9PM dinner and then bed for an early departure.

    Despite today, it has been an absolutely amazing trip. I recommend this to everyone. Just don't go artificial. Avoid the behemoths. Get a 100ish passenger ship. If you get a Drake Shake it's part of the experience.

    Top Five Excursions
    1. Spert Island Zodiac
    2. Petermann Penguin Colonies
    3. Humpback Whale Zodiac
    4. Winter Island/Verdansky
    5. Paradise Bay

    While it will take me five different flights and 31 hours to make it home I don't think it will make for exciting reading. Take care and thanks for following along.     Czytaj więcej

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  • In Search of WineEnd Of The WorldPodróżnik

    Boat Kept a Rollin'

    20 stycznia 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 4 °C

    "Boat kept a rolling all night long". Aerosmith (mostly)

    "We are heading into a storm" are the words we heard this afternoon from our expedition leader.

    The crescendo has been building as the day has progressed. Last night our sleep was pretty good. By this afternoon the waves were crashing all the way over the bridge deck. Small ice berg bits crash into the hull every so often with resounding bangs.

    Staff have had various lectures and quizzes to distract us. Movies and books have been read. Activity levels are low.

    This boat is built to cross the Drake, just perhaps not in comfort.     Czytaj więcej

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  • In Search of WineEnd Of The WorldPodróżnik
    Devil's Jaw & Neptunes Bellow
    Mountain LandscapesOld Whaling StationOur Climb in the ForegroundRemains from 1969 EruptionOur Tour Guide Along the BeachHardy ExplorerNeptune's Bellows

    Roll With The Changes

    19 stycznia 2024, Antarktyda ⋅ ❄️ 1 °C

    "Oh you've got to learn to roll with the changes". REO Speedwagon

    To sail into the cauldara of this active Antarctic volcano you have to be careful to avoid the Devil's Jaw. This means setting course straight for Neptune's Bellows on the opposite side of the narrow entrance and watching that cliff pass ever so closely by while simultaneously escaping the shallow rocks of the cursed jaw.

    Once through the tightrope, we enter into Deception Bay, a miles wide body of water almost entirely surrounded by the volcano walls which last erupted in 1969.

    Inside the cauldara, the water is calm even as the winds gust and the snow falls.

    Deception Island, as this barren mountainous outcrop is known, was an active whaling station. Hundreds of thousands of whales were processed in the nearly hundred years that the whaling station operated, before closing in the early 1960's.

    Whale carcasses line the ocean floor and litter the beaches. A haunting reminder of a less humane time.

    Little snow accumulates on these black sand and ash beaches as the geothermal activity provides just enough warmth. The patches of snow that do accumulate on the rolling black, volcanic, hills provide a striking resemblance to the whales that where once slaughtered here.

    We make landing at Pendulum Cove. If situated in the South Pacific these lush black sand beaches would be ringed with hotels. Here the remains of one of the destroyed stations, some whale bones and a single chinstrap penguin are our only companions.

    Around 20 of us have decided to climb one of the more accessible hills. Devoid of snow, the soft volcanic sand provides better traction than the icy snow of yesterday's walk. At altitude the wind is a constant 50km with gusts that can knock you over. Snow swirling everywhere. As we near the summit, the soft sand turns to a larger more scambly volcanic scree. I make it to the sub apex, enjoy the view then say goodbye to Neil and the rest of the group as they make the last scramble up.

    As I begin my decent I am thankful for the pole Neil was kind of enough to bring for each of us. The wind and snow batter my sunglasses-turned-goggles and I think about the conditions the people at these whaling stations endured. We don't get to the graveyard but there are 35 graves for people who lost their lives working in these bleak conditions here on Deception Island. If this is summer I am not sure I can fully imagine what winter feels like.

    As is the reality with any trip to Antarctica, the inclement weather forces changes in plans. A second landing is deemed unsafe, so we are to depart the cauldara after lunch.

    The view of Neptune's Bellows, those steep cliffs opposite the Devil's Jaw, are much better this afternoon, the red, waffled cliffs almost glow.

    Then we are in the Drake. The boat begins to roll almost immediately, nothing intense but certainly the most motion since we arrived at the South Shetland's five days ago. We are told the first day of crossing will be considerably better then the second. Stay tuned.     Czytaj więcej

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  • In Search of WineEnd Of The WorldPodróżnik
    The Fish Was "This" BigTipped Iceberg with Scraped BottomSnow PetrelsHappy Leopard Seal in Paradise BayParadise BayCormorants and ChicksThe Humpback of Paradise BayChivas and Glacier Ice

    Paradise City

    18 stycznia 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    "Take me down to the Paradise City where the moss is green and penguins are pretty...". Guns and Roses (mostly)

    I think Antarctica holds different charms for different people. You can't fault those who feel the rugged mountainous landscapes are the best with their snow capped glaciers. Some say it's the icebergs floating everywhere - each one it's own special structure. It would be hard to argue with those who love the whales the most, as they magisticly weave in and out of the water, their flukes calmly dropping below the surface to power them ever forward. For birders all the beautiful petrels, gulls and albatross top the charts. For me though, it's the penguins - they are as industrious as they are humourous. I have not yet tired of watching them, being bemused by them, admiring them.

    This morning we are going to Danco Island, the weather is cloudy, cool but mostly calm. Neil is a bit under the weather with a cold, so is going to rest. We make landing just down from a penguin colony. The beachfront nests offering the Gentoo settlers great views and easy access to food, at the expense though of limited protection from storms and leopard seals.

    The guides have set up a three stage hike; after walking to the first stage up the steep, icy trails I had a decision to make, keep going or get some extra penguin time down by the landing spot. I am amazed I am the only one who thought that this was the smarter choice so I head back to the boats, sit beside Liz and we silently watch the penguins enter and exit the water, parade around the boats, feed the young, find and steal nest stones, play and socialize. They are mindful but not bothered by these two quiet humans sitting on a zodiac. The only other sounds being the intermittent thunderous crash of avalanches reverberating through this narrow passage of water between the island and the peninsula.

    Sadly our solitude is broken as others return from their hikes. A small group of us head out to look at bergs and seals. The ever eagle-eyed Liz spots a big leopard seal stretched out on a bergy bit. Then it's time to go back for lunch.

    This afternoon the zodiac pushes through and also over both brush ice and small growlers as it leaves the Polar Pioneer on its way to Paradise Bay. Lots of scraping and bumping.

    We are with skilled but fearless Mark for this trip. Typically Paradise Bay is one of the highlights of an Antarctic trip, but the snowfall and low cloud cover take away the dramatic high glacier vistas.

    But what we lose in mountain scenery we add with dramatic Antarctic ambience. Glaciers at every turn waiting to drop the next big iceberg into the Gerlache Straight. Seals hitchhiking a passing bergy bit, Artic and Antarctic terns collectively deterring skua and gulls from plundering the babies from their steep cliff side nests.

    We quickly stop at Brown's Station, an Argentinian summer research centre and because we are with Mark and Liz we have another close encounter with a couple of humpback whales.

    We get back in time for a ritual on the Polar Pioneer - the Polar Plunge. For days people have talked about the plunge in hushed tones - "are you doing the plunge Chris?", "Neil, how cold do you think the plunge will be?".

    Last night the guide leader said those doing the plunge this afternoon will get a healthy shot of vodka.

    For some reason I was the first person to make the plunge, it's not that I wanted some cheap vodka that badly but I figured I would probably regret if I didn't go. Nobody wanted to go first and that's how I was the first to walk the plank.

    It's really not that cold if you just jump and don't think about it. It was also very safe and thankfully they moved the ship away from the brash ice. In the end half the passengers made the plunge. With eighties dance music playing, it was very fun.

    Neil, who absent the cold was planning to make the plunge, had a scotch waiting for me replete with the oldest of glacier ice that the crew found floating in the water. While there is no way to prove it, the ice in our drinks likely predates the arrival of humans.

    Tomorrow we will visit some islands in the South Shetlands and by tomorrow night we will venture into the Drake. Wish us one last good sleep!!     Czytaj więcej

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  • In Search of WineEnd Of The WorldPodróżnik
    Mount Shackleton from Lemaire Channel
    Humpback Whale in Front of Giant IcebergsVlad and Olga at Vernadsky StationWordie HouseWordie House ArtifactsOld Style CramponsWordie HouseGentoo Babies and BudsAdelie Babies and BudsAdelie RookeryChicks AhoyThree SistersExploring

    Living In the Past

    17 stycznia 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 2 °C

    "Oh we won't give in, let's go living in the past". Jethro Tull

    Today felt like Antarctica. Today felt like we were explorers from a different era. Today it snowed.

    Once again, a lot happened today and it started with our 4:45AM wake up call to witness our sailing through the Lemaire passage. It is a narrow passage replete with steep, dark rock cliffs. Snow benches are perched perilously close to the water, just waiting to ambush unsuspecting passersby.

    Small bits of brash ice floating everywhere quietly being pushed about by the Polar Pioneer. Penguin tracks mark a rockery for only the surest footed penguins. We are alone. Much of the year this passage is frozen over in thick ice. We emerge an hour later into a magical land of icebergs. These bergs melt so slowly that every calving will add to the extraordinary inventory.

    The weather is calm but cold this morning as we head for Vernadsky Station. Vernadsky Station is technically in the Ukraine and their flag flys over the encampment. The British sold this particular station to the Ukrainian government for £1 rather than dismantle it. Back in the day you could go into the station but now it's mostly verboten. Nicely though our two Ukrainian passengers are permitted to enter, we have gotten to know them and they have kindly agreed to buy Neil (while really Rowan and Declan) a postcard.

    The rest of us carry on to Wordie House, named for the scientist attached to the Shackleton expedition. Built in 1947, and used for seven years, it has been left, museum style, for expeditionists (had to be careful with autocorrect there) to explore.

    At the old station are some Weddell seals that saranade us with their quiet songs. Apparently this is extremely rare and nobody other then Mark and Liz have ever heard this before. Liz says this quiet singing can get very loud, very quickly, during mating season.

    After the history tour, we set out exploring on zodiacs again. Around the fairly large Vernadsky Station. Replete with Ukrainian flags and endless Gentoo penguin colonies. We have come during the early days of birth and baby chicks nestle protectively under their hyper vigilant parents' legs. Waiting for their spouse to bring home the regurgitated krill or perhaps a new nest rock . Because, you know, Peter and Polly's nest looks a little nicer, what with that new speckled rock Polly brought home. Oh penguins.

    After this look about, it's bergie hunting in our winter wonderland, all while the snow begins to fall - snow-globe style. Like all good explorers we have dressed warmly so we return to the boat, cameras full and still relatively warm and dry.

    Our afternoon mission is to "Find Penguins" and I am happy to report dear reader, mission accomplished.

    This afternoon is truly all about seeing the little waddlers up close and everywhere. Petermann Island is our destination. Being so far south on our expedition, this is our first chance to see the Adelli penguin. They are the third of three species we will see in this part of the world as they do not venture much further north.

    While we need to, and do, keep our distance; we can, and do, get close enough that we can see the chicks with their mom's. We can see them regurgitating and feeding the kids. We can see them stealing rocks from each other's nest for their own.

    Gentoo and Adelli each have their own rookeries; and the Gentoo do their donkey-like bray constantly. Both penguin types walk up their little highways and we are instructed to stay off their road and if we do cross their highway they have the right of away. It is all very orderly and we all get along happily.

    It is an amazing afternoon, pictures galore are taken as we walk about the little hills around the bay, exploring the various little areas where bunches of penguins commune together.

    Some libations follow on board with Liz and her roommate and her roommate's friends. This turns to dinner which turns to our end of day briefing and the next thing I know blogs are being written before tucking into an "early" night.     Czytaj więcej

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  • In Search of WineEnd Of The WorldPodróżnik
    Into the ArchNext Zodiac Coming ThroughAn Amazing MazeGlacial IcePicture PerfectTower IcebergsLeopard Seal Checking Us OutWeddell SealPenguins Always Have the Right of WayView From Our Partial ClimbOne of a Dozen Humpback WhalesWhale's BreathThe End of Another Amazing Day

    End of the World

    16 stycznia 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 0 °C

    "It's the end of the world as we know it and I feel fine". REM

    The zodiac is a rugged craft capable of navigating narrow, shallow and icy passages. It is the safari jeep.

    Mark, our Welsh born, recently Campbell River based, guide is a skilled zodiac operator. For our morning expedition Mark hopes to circumnavigate Spert Island, part of the Antarctic Peninsula islands. The geology of the area is volcanic, abrupt cliff edges are everywhere, square edged, hard rock.

    A glacier sits atop the island, a long white thick tongue covering much of the island's rocky surface. Scarred along the edges where large sheets of ice have calved off.

    There are a lot of scars and so many icebergs floating around the water slowly melting during the short summer. Guiding here is never the same, as the narrow water passageways get blocked with new ice.

    The first stop is a rock arch, every bit as beautiful as it's Mediterranean counterparts. We slowly circle in and out to give each of the nine of us a good view.

    Then it's off to the first narrow passage that appears to have received a new delivery from the glacial tongue. We are the first of five boats sent off, so Mark carefully pushes through, finding a channel where the ice is loose enough to navigate, and just like that, we are into an amazing bay of icebergs. Every shape of iceberg imaginable. Like clouds we all see what our imaginations allow. Having just been in Turkey I can't help but see the iceberg equivalence of Cappadocia. Toppled columns of ice as the melting upper part of the iceberg causes the structure to capsize in a circular fashion.

    Mark has spotted penguins hanging out on an iceberg so we scoot over to send our greetings; some are in the water trying to catch just-the-right wave to propel them back onto the berg with their mates.

    We say good bye when Mark and Liz spot a seal sunning himself on a small sheet of ice. We race over and determine that it is a regionally-rare leopard seal. Leopard seals favourite food is penguin and given the number of penguins about I don't think this guy misses many meals.

    We carry on soaking in all the natural beauty. Mark is determinedly looking to find a way around the ice filled waters, suddenly we spot some cat faced Weddell seals with teeth designed to cut through the ice so as to keep airholes open during the winters.

    Eventually, Mark finds a way through and we spot the Polar Pioneer. But first, one last stop to another penguin hangout before hitting the cool open water. A lovely two hour journey. A shower and its time for lunch before the afternoon excursion.

    It's a warm afternoon, +10°C in the sun. This excursion is to Palaver Point a lovely bay with a dozen or so humpback whales swimming about.

    We disembark for a walk about amongst the chinstrap penguins, being careful to mind our distance. A few Weddell seals are lying about oblivious to any and all of the commotion. We climb up a small snow covered hill for a look over the pretty bay but Neil, Liz and I are anxious to get into the zodiac and go whale watching. The three of us along with Anna, a keen photographer, jump in a zodiac with Mark and start exploring. Two Vancouver Island whale watching captains and three passengers. Needless to say we have the experience of a life time. We get so close that as we kneel over the gunnel, Liz says "he is going underneath us" and we can see his colouring in the water below. Then just like that he surfaces within a few feet of the starboard bow.

    Several other close encounters occur with mothers and babies, so many synchronizing their moves, tail fluke after tail fluke. It is breathtaking. Hopefully my pictures/videos will ultimately capture it. We are out for a half an hour and then we have to pick up seven others who have been climbing around the penguins.

    We stay out for another 30-40 minutes with this larger group and see more whales but nothing beats that first fourty minute experience.

    After dinner we spend some time on the bridge watching the whales work to collectively hunt for krill, bubble netting. Then it's bed time as we have a 5:45AM start.     Czytaj więcej

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  • In Search of WineEnd Of The WorldPodróżnik
    Chinstrap Greeting Committee
    Young Elephant SealHi Honey I'm HomeStanding VigilantGentoo Mom and ChicksTaking a BreakWhat, leaving already?

    Changes n Latitudes, Changes n Attitudes

    15 stycznia 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌙 0 °C

    "It's these changes in latitudes, changes in attitudes nothing remains quite the same". Jimmy Buffett

    We made landfall this evening on Robert Island. Part of the South Shetland Islands. The islands forms a protective northwest cover around the Antarctic Peninsula. It was magical.

    Around 3PM, humpback whales and penguins, porpoising through the water, became our escorts as we headed into the passage. Icebergs everywhere small and large. The sun shining brightly, mountains rising in the distance behind. Fourty-eight hours ago we thought we were finished, now we are in an icy wonderland.

    We learn disembarkment will be at 7:30PM so we have dinner before we load up on the zodiacs and head for the landing spot.

    In no time we are there. We step ashore - bundled up for cold weather that isn't there. Dozens of penguins are on the beach to greet us. They have swum for miles catching fish for their family and are stopping at the beach side resort for some R&R.

    Eight foot long elephant seals are nearly passed out on the shore exhausted from hunting giant squid deep into the ocean and getting ready to molt.

    As we make our way inland, we see hundreds of Gentoo penguins some with their young chicks, others still sitting on their eggs. We give them their distance - it is their home.

    Little Chinstraps intermingle with their bigger Gentoo cousins. As well as being amazing swimmers the "Chinnies" climb high up the hills, their wings making them great swimmers and providing balance as they climb.

    A constant braying sound can be heard as Gentoo's call out to their mates so they can find each other and share the catch. Nothing says I love more than regurgitating fish into your loved one's mouth.

    Our two hours on shore are seemingly over before they start; as shortly after 9:30 PM we are back on the boat and celebrating a spectacular first landing.

    It's nearly midnight as I write this from the deck of the bridge. The sun has set but the SW horizon is still a glow, whales are still frolicking in the water and icebergs remain everywhere.     Czytaj więcej

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  • In Search of WineEnd Of The WorldPodróżnik
    Antarctic Petrel
    Fin WhaleThe 50 of UsCrew of the Polar PioneerLecturesSunsetEach Zodiac Named After a Female Polar ExplorerNo Stabilizers Turned an Average Wave into Rocker

    I Feel The "Earth" Move

    14 stycznia 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    "I feel the earth move under my feet..." Carole King

    It was a'rockin last night as we left the Beagle and headed out into the Drake for day one of our two day crossing. I managed to get some sleep in between the vertical up and down sliding and the constant rolling. Neil was not as fortunate.

    As measured, the maximum tilt experienced was 29° around 2AM. We "wake" up to very messy toilets and broken crockery, the crew working diligently to clean things up while the waves continue to batter the Polar Pioneer.

    A quiet day, we see a fin whale from the bridge deck as it quickly comes up for air. Some sea birds but not much else.

    We get a lecture on the first discoverers, from Magellan onwards. Ultimately learning that it was a Russian, Bellinghausen, that first discovered Antarctica in 1821. A disappointing fact that was not well received by our Ukrainian passengers.

    A nice lecture on the 18 species of penguins with specific focus on the three species (and one sub species) we will see on our journeys.

    The waves calm down later in the day promising a better sleep tonight as we head into Antarctic waters tonight and then cross the 60° parallel.     Czytaj więcej

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  • In Search of WineEnd Of The WorldPodróżnik
    Antarctic Tern w Catch
    6' Span of a Southern Great PetrelThe Austere Berth 303Lifeboat training apparently 60+ people per boatDavid Before The Good News/ Also Look at the Weather MapThe Fabricated ToolImperial Shag w Nesting MaterialConstant Access To The Bridge A Real BonusOur Original Planned Journey in BlueAntarctic DreamingSmooth Sailing

    Roundabout

    13 stycznia 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌧 5 °C

    "Call it morning driving in the sound and in and out the valley..." Yes.

    "We have blown a rod in the port side engine, we have to turn around, I am sorry to say the trip is over before it can begin."

    These are the first words I hear at 6:30AM, after a calm quiet sleep, from a very distraught David. His dreams of starting a guiding business seemingly as shattered as the ruinous engine itself.

    David has just recently come from the engine room where the crew has been working to somehow get the ship righted.

    I can't help but think of our little group, Neil and Liz excited to be travelling together, Liz and I and all the torturous travels we have endured. The logistics of trying to get home or pivot to Plan B.

    I tell Neil the news. Both of us had been wondering why our nights sleep has been so calm when we were expecting a turbulent first night through the Drake passage.

    The Captain, who is naturally more familiar with engines, gives us a briefing - it is not as bad as we first were told, the engine is fine but it is the "starter" (which is a lot more intricate than on a car) that is shot, but the fact remains they don't have the part. So we must wait for a pilot to lead us back through the Beagle which could be hours or days. Then we each must figure out hotels, flights etc. All with no cellular reception.

    Once we hear that the pilot should be coming soon we purchase some Starlink data (hence the blog postings) to start working on logistics. We WhatsApp call our amazingly supportive wives, tell them the news and enlist their help to book hotels etc. They have been following us on CruiseMapper and have been wondering why we have not been moving for some time.

    We are just about to open a bottle of wine to console ourselves when David quietly comes in and advises us the engineering team has machine lathed a tool to remove the broken part and then machine lathed the part. Unfreakin' believable. The engine has thus restarted and we will be able to cross the Drake with both engines working once again.

    The Captain briefs everyone, assures us we will be safe and introduced us to the hero of the day - the Chief Engineer who has not slept since before we left Ushuaia. We will have one less day on the continent but all in all an amazing turnaround.

    It is hard to describe the roller coaster of emotions everyone has gone through, but it was truly inspiring to see how everyone remained extraordinarily positive.

    Under power once again, we make good speed and after supper head into the angry Drake waters for what promises to be a "proper Drake Shake". Sleep well everyone.     Czytaj więcej

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  • In Search of WineEnd Of The WorldPodróżnik
    Black Brown Albatross
    Our Journey in AntarcticaLovely MuralPoppies in the Public GardensBar Ideal 4 Pints InUshuaia HarbourNo Turning Back NowMount Shackleton Taken on Day 8Humpback in the Lemaire - Taken on Day 8Chilean Mountains

    Hang on Snoopy

    12 stycznia 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 6 °C

    "Hang on Snoopy, Snoopy hang on". The McCoys (mostly)

    I saw my first Albatross today. It was extraordinarily exciting. It was a small one apparently, with only a 7' wing span. A foot wide bird with two yardsticks sticking out, awkwardly bent.

    He or a few of his friends followed our ship through the Beagle Channel as we made our way through this narrow waterway that divides Tierra del Fuego. The channel named after Darwin's boat that discovered this safer short cut on their way to the Gallpogos.

    The first part of the day was not the most exciting to write about. We dropped our bag off around 10:30AM with the Polar Pioneer crew and then killed time until 3:30 PM. Liz met up with our leader, David, whom she guided with in Antarctica for several years. We find out that David, an experienced polar guide and commercial lawyer, has started this business, Islands and Ice Travel, and this is his maiden voyage as owner. His enthusiasm is off the charts.

    While waiting to board the ship we go to Liz's favourite watering hole - Bar Ideal. Fours hours and four pints later it's time to board the ship.

    Born in 1982 the Polar Pioneer is not a new ship but it has been retrofitted, ownership has changed from Russian to Scandinavian, thankfully, and there is nothing wrong with it, we think. But when you see the picture of our ship on the dock compared to some of the 200 and 400 passenger behemoths you might think "what is the tugboat doing on the dock there?"

    Backstory, Neil and I did not want to go on a glitz and glamour ship. We are a 50 passenger ship, regulations allow only 100 people to go onshore at any specific time. We did not want all the side excursions (like photo op kayaking moments) designed to distract you from the fact that you can't go onshore for very long because your time on shore is cut in two or four. We came here to see Antarctica, to explore Antarctica not to do distracting side hustles. Having an experienced guide who has seen the differences first hand helped with our decision.

    So with that, we board the ship with the excitement of kids going to Klondike Days for the first time.

    The guests are 75% Australian with some Kiwi's, Canadians, Ukrainians and Yanks thrown in. Median age is slightly older than me, most are fit, some super fit, some less so.

    Dinner is nice, simple but good. A small steak with mashed potatoes and some fresh cooked vegetables.

    The sun sets late so we spend some time on the bridge while the
    pilot directs the ship through the channel. This is a requirement and he will leave at the pilots station to get transport back to Ushuaia and help the next ship. The waves in the channel are high, a wind storm has just passed through, it could be a bumpy two day crossing over the Drake Straight.     Czytaj więcej

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  • In Search of WineEnd Of The WorldPodróżnik
    Welcome
    Lovely UshuaiaLiz and Neil at the Tango de Mayo in BADon Quixote in BARamos General StoreA Long Way From EverywhereMmmm BeerDinner Tonight w Church in BackgroundOne of Many Murals In UshuaiaAmazing murals

    Southbound Again

    11 stycznia 2024, Argentyna ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    "Southbound again, I don't know if I'm going or leaving home".   Dire Staits (not sure if quoting Dire ... Staits..... is a good omen but it's a great song).

    At roughly the same latitude as Edmonton, Ushuaia is the southern most town in the world.  It has taken me four days to get here. I have slept in three different countries in three different hotels before arriving.  It was not planned to be that way, but it's winter travel.  Escaping the winter starts with departing from the winter.  

    Laurie and I were in Ushuaia seven years ago for her birthday.  I am here this time with my good friend Neil Calhoun and his sister Liz.   

    In fairness we aren't truly escaping winter we are boarding the Polar Pioneer tomorrow for Antarctica.  But it is summer here and the temperatures will be warmer than Vancouver Island, at least on average they will be. 

    Waking up in beautiful Buenos Aires after my third midnight arrival and a 7:30 AM airport shuttle,  it is heart breaking to have literally only minutes to walk to January 9 Blvd.  Past a lovely café before going to the city's downtown airport, with it's lovely "ocean" front vista and palm trees.  

    Once in Ushuaia, we grab lunch at the iconic Ramos General Store grabbing some Beagle Channel locally brewed craft IPA and some goulash and spaëtzle.   I think of Laurie and her love of spaëtzle as I chow down. 

    Ushuaia is a ruggedly handsome little city surrounded with young jagged mountains.  It is replete with an alpine themed downtown.   Not much has changed since our time here seven years ago, other than a garish Hard Rock Cafe that is one block west of the bright yellow church both now serving as landmarks. 

    We grab some groceries (wine and peanuts) to entertain ourselves on board, waiting in a long que of locals. Then we head back, drop our stuff of and wander the town some more before grabbing our second craft beer from Cape Horn Brewing the world's most southern brewery.  This is procured at the local Triumph motorcycle dealership.

    From there we head to Maria Lola's (there's a song title in there somewhere). 

    Lola's is fantastic.  High on the hill overlooking the yellow church and the Beagle Channel below, it has great views, great steak and really nice wine all at reasonable prices.  

    It is 11:00 PM when we finally make our way home for a lovely sleep at the Beagle Hotel.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Bodhran, Beer and Beaches
    Walls of the old town of FaroCathedral SantiagoFood Tour starts at Municipal MercadoFaro Sign

    Faro Foodie Fun

    18 września 2018, Portugalia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Today is the last day of our Ireland/Portugal trip. Tomorrow is the first day of our Camino. We have a busy day planned as we leave our little cube house in Olhao.

    First a food tour organized in Faro. Faro is the capital of the Algarve region and it is a large city, but the central part of town is very historic, lovely and well preserved/restored. We park by the old city walls and explore the old town as we walk uptown toward the Mercado Centro.

    We have arranged the tour through Air BnB which now does “experiences”, it is a clever new business line. Sali is our guide. She is a nutritionist who has traveled extensively with the UN, primarily Africa. It is just the six of us, the other three are young engineers from Denmark. We visit some of the stalls, talk to the vendors, many who have been there for decade. We sample their wares, learning about the culture, the history, and some of the traditions.

    We then hit the streets, learning a bit more about Faro on our way to lunch at a traditional restaurant where we get to know each other.

    After lunch we walk around a bit more, find a pastry shop and then finish with espresso. After the tour we go to About Wine (an amazing little wine shop) to pick up a couple of bottles for dinner with our friends Mitch & Lynn at their little villa.

    I worked with Mitch a decade ago and we have kept in touch ever since. They happened to be travelling to Portugal with some friends at the same time as us. They are staying an hour north of Lisbon, we are flying out of Lisbon. It is a 3.5 hour drive from Faro. We have a lovely visit, eat some tapas and drink a small amount of very good wine, before heading to our airport hotel for an early flight.

    This portion of our overall trip has been great. Ireland was more touristy and Portugal more local, both were lovely in their own right. The entire trip so far, has been somewhat overshadowed by the Camino which looms larger and larger.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Bodhran, Beer and Beaches
    Bridge to island beach
    Barril island beach and Natural ReserveYou can walk 1 km or take a train.Anchors awayOur beach cabanaTavira Moorish CasteloView of the ocean from the castle wallParish of Santiago TaviraBirthday dinner at Terra i Mar

    Beach Birthday, Baby!

    16 września 2018, Portugalia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    It is Sunday in the Algarve so it is time to head to the beach! After a leisurely breakfast we drive to Pedras d’el Rei. We are definitely not alone, it is likely 80/20 for locals to tourists as we walk the one km through this section of the Ria Formosa National Park. The Ria is a a unique coastal lagoon protected by five marshland islands with significant biodiversity including the Portuguese Water Dog a web footed poodle and hosts 20,000 birds during winter including several rare species - a person could have a Big Year just by hanging out in the Ria.

    The walk is lovely, we see some birds, we don’t know their lineage. When we get to the beach we rent chairs and a cover for half a day and get comfortable. The water is very lovely - warm, aquamarine, it is the Atlantic but it feels like the Mediterranean. The beach is idyllic, soft, icing sugar consistency. The water recedes very gradually so you can walk out several metres before the water reaches above your head. Most everyone is properly attired - a couple of women are missing their tops, a few gentleman have “speedo’s”.

    We have lunch at the Museu do Atum, the building was fashioned from the tuna (atum) fishing facilities on the island we are on. It is light, reasonably good and slightly overpriced.

    After lunch we drive to Tavira which is further east, nearly at the Spanish Border. Tavira is an old Roman town and the Moors built a castle here during the time they ruled this part of Portugal. We explore the remains of the Moorish castle and wander the gardens inside before heading back to Olhao for some downtime, packing time and finally dinner time.

    Dinner is at Terra i Mar a lovely seafood restaurant. The menu is predominantly fish and is all freshly sourced from the fish market that we visited yesterday. Laurie finds a steak to order and I have the bream it is served with the head on. It is a lovely and delicate white fish. We have ordered white sangria and some red wine with some tapas to start. A wonderful birthday dinner.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Bodhran, Beer and Beaches
    Saturday Market
    Chickens, pigeons, parakeet for saleFish market, get your eel, prawns, etc.Murals on the sardine cannery

    Algarve - Olhao

    15 września 2018, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    It is going to be a quiet day in the Algarve. We are going local. I am up early but Laurie is sleeping in this morning. I read and relax, catch up on the news. When Laurie gets out of bed we have some coffee and head to the market. Olhao is home to the biggest fish market in the Algarve and on Saturdays it is supplemented with farmers from the surrounding hill towns who come in with various produce. We buy some berries and some honey for our friends who we are visiting on Monday. We take a look at the fish market - there is an interesting assortment of fish - lots of sardines, eels, mackerel, and fish I have never heard of.

    Olhao is home to a fish canning factory and we head there after the market to pick up some anchovies and sardines to take home and then at the local bakery to pick up a loaf of bread.

    A quick lunch and we head out for the western Algarve. We drive through the hills and arrive at Lagos, it is busy - much busier than Olhao and the eastern Algarve. We decide not to stay and make the journey back home. We relax and siesta until supper time.

    Rested we walk down the end of our little street to the corner restaurant Mosse, it is quiet and we sit outside. They have two English menus which are in use by the other tourists, two families are having a meal - it is a microcosm of the area. The service is slow/relaxed, we enjoy a bottle of 100 Hectares Douro white with our salted cod and chicken vol au vent and when we leave our pocket book is barely dented.

    The Algarve was meant to be a relaxing time in advance of the Camino. Day1 - mission accomplished.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Bodhran, Beer and Beaches
    Waterfront Promenade
    Marmalade House B&BLaundry mat in our neighborhoodRoof top viewOlhao Water frontInside 7 Imeio Tapas bar

    Travel Day

    14 września 2018, Portugalia ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    It is an hours drive from Doolin to the Shannon Airport and our 10:20AM Ryan Air flight. So it is an early morning and we have had to skip Darra’s lovely breakfast - she was kind enough to pack some fruit and banana bread for our drive. Such a wonderful place and wonderful people, Doolin has been the highlight of Ireland for us. As we have travel planned, so many people we know have been to Ireland before us and have provided their recommendations of places you “must go to”. I think more than other places, Ireland’s charm lies with its people experiences that you can’t recreate just by being there. You are better off to get out of Dublin sooner than later, then pick highly rated B&B’s and get a feel for the place. Our best experiences were in Doolin (and the cliffs are amazing).

    Anyway I digress, we have chosen to fly Ryan Air not for their “low airfare”, not for their impeccable service, not even for the Ryan air experience - only for their schedule - no other airline was flying to Faro, Portugal that day from Shannon. We have never flown Ryan Air - we have heard about the “experience”; I have flown discount airlines in the past but nothing is as blatantly shameless for up selling as Ryan Air. Fifty euro ($80 Cdn) to check a bag; they randomly assign seating unless you pay to select your seats (Laurie and I are 26 rows apart); water, coffee, snacks are all charged; they sell their own lottery tickets on board after take off; and then they do all the usual stuff that every airline seems to do these days to add cash. We have two hen parties and a stag party on board our flight. Liquor is served and the up selling of duty free begins in earnest. We would never have flown Ryan Air if reasonably avoidable.

    Next to Spain’s Mediterranean coast, Portugal’s Algarve is a favourite for sun seeking English and Irish. Luckily all the “resorts” are West of Faro and we are heading to the Eastern Algarve.

    We pick up our rental car from Sixt, who want to charge us for an extra driver, Laurie says she will drive, but because the Am Ex (which is the only card we have that has European auto insurance) I have to drive. We get our car - a very nice Renault Cleo.

    The town of Olhao is interesting and we are looking forward to our four days and three nights here. We have booked an Air BnB. It is on a little cobblestone street with no cars. It is a typical Algarve three story cube house that has been tastefully renovated - keeping the interesting parts and replacing the rustic ones. When you enter the house on the main floor you are in the bedroom with stone walls and a high stone ceiling. It is hot in the Algarve, so the bedroom is on the main floor - the stone will absorb the heat during the day and release it at night. They have added air conditioning but for our first night we do not use it. The second floor has steep stairs to the kitchen and living room; there is a little balcony. There are stone walls with some plaster for hanging pictures. Off the balcony you can climb to the flat roof top that has a partial view over the other roof tops to the ocean where the wives could watch their husbands come home from fishing. The roof top would also be used to dry fruit and fish. Back on the main floor, I suspect the bathroom was completely redone as it is thankfully very modern. All in all, I doubt we will stay in such an interesting and local place again on our trip. Thanks Air BnB for opening up new possibilities of places to stay.

    Today is laundry day and unfortunately our place doesn’t have a washer and dryer - we knew this going in and chose the place anyway because it was so darn interesting. We figure out where the laundry mat is and trek our way there. Laundry mats are not typically in prime real estate so we walk through the working class streets of Olhao to a very nice place and do our laundry listening to Portuguese MTV and browsing Portuguese style People magazines (okay for the record there is no browsing - they have free wifi). An hour later we walk home, pick up some grocery essentials at a little “minimart” and hang our laundry out on the drying rack they provided and the clothes line we brought. We have a beer and some snacks on the upper balcony - while a neighbour plays Adele on their boom box.

    After a nice break we head to the historic town centre and waterfront; stroll along the promenade and pick a wine and tapas bar, 7 Imeio. It was recommended by our hosts in the amazing information package they provided. The wine bar is very interestingly decorated, the wine is all Portuguese and the tapas are delicious and well presented.

    A quiet day, as travel days usually are, but a good start to our brief time in the Algarve.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Bodhran, Beer and Beaches
    Doolin Harbour Start of our adventure
    Doolin 2 Aran ferry to first of three Aran IslandsHorse Jaunty Tour of Inis OirrShipwreck - MV PlasseyCastle ruinsView of town from CastleLunch spot, island PubCliffs of Moher on the way back

    Rough Seas to Aran Island

    13 września 2018, Irlandia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Doolin is a lovely place on the mainland of Ireland, our B&B is fantastic as is the breakfast. So for some reason we are going to get on a boat, face five foot swells and go to Inishmeer (Inis Oirr) Island - the smallest of the famed Aran Islands. We have a lovely 2km walk to the pier and it affords us a view of the Atlantic Ocean the whole way. It is a windy day, we are dressed warmly - we think.

    On the thirty five minute ride out the crew ushers everyone to the interior. The Star of Doolin is a decent size, 24 feet and can sit 40 or so people inside. The waves crash against our boat, many people look like they might revisit their breakfast, Laurie has taken her Gravol so she is hanging in.

    We arrive to the island in one piece, disembark and catch a horse drawn carriage around the little island. It is an enjoyable 45 minute tour and the pictures will do this part of the trip much more justice than words ever can.

    300 people make their home on Inis Oirr, tourism is the primary industry followed by agriculture (cattle primarily). Stone fence walls abound as it was the best place to put the shale and limestone that covered the ground. There is “K-12” schooling, a medicentre and thankfully more than one pub. After walking around we determine a pub would be in order so we wander in and have a beer and Irish Coffee accompanied by a pub food lunch.

    We stroll around the beach for a while before heading to our boat for the return voyage. The water is calm around the island and they let us sit outside - that’s a good sign... right. Past the shelter of the island the waves kick up and start crashing over the bow.... we are instantly drenched. The boat is making a tour of the Cliffs of Moher so we can see the cliffs from the water and see the Harry Potter Sea Cave - it is all very cool. It does however extend the trip to over an hour of wave crashing good fun. Our water proof jackets do well but our jeans - not so much. We disembark at the Doolin pier and make our soggy 2km trek back to town.

    Another couple from our B&B have made the same out and back trek with us, they also were at the Music House last night. They are American, he is retired Military Intelligence, we have avoided politics until waiting for the ferry back to Doolin. Then it all comes out, they are embarrassed by their president as, they feel, is 66% of the American population. We instantly feel badly for them - you can tell the impact of not being proud of your country weighs on their shoulders. As Canadians we have rarely if ever faced that weight.

    At dinner we find them at the same restaurant and sit beside them - they are interesting and well informed - unlike, unfortunately, some of the other Americans we have encountered on our trip to Ireland. It is interesting times to travel.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Bodhran, Beer and Beaches
    Over looking Doolin from our B&B
    Sea View House, DoolinOne of many stone bridge crossings800 foot high CliffsFirst hill top cliffs of Moher walkCliffs of MoherDoolin Music House - Christy Barry

    Cliffs of Insanity

    12 września 2018, Irlandia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Holidays are too short. There I said it. We are heading for our last stop in Ireland - Doolin. I have heard we have saved the best for last. We take the route over Conner’s Pass - it is as breathtaking as it is terrifying. No guard rails, single lane at times - Laurie drives like a pro and we make it up and over the pass with ease.

    The rest of the drive is relatively flat, we drive past towns like Tralee and Limerick before getting to Doolin and the Stone Cutters Inn - recommended by our friends. It is a bit tacky on the outside but good food and a quaint atmosphere inside. We find out that the matchmaking festival in Lisdoonvarna is on for the month of September in Doolin. Doolin is the setting for the movie The Matchmaker with Janeane Garofalo.

    We head to our B&B the Sea View House. It is a charming place with four bedrooms to let. After getting settled we put on our hiking gear and head for the Cliffs of Moher. The cliffs are a staggering 240 metres (788 feet) straight above the ocean and made of sandstone and siltstone. The cliffs are actually the Cliffs of Insanity in the classic Princess Bride - inconceivable! It is also featured in Harry Potter and the Half Blood Prince, Ryans Daughter, Leap Year and many Moher.

    It is a 6km walk up to and along the cliffs edge to a visitor centre that most people drive to. The path is wide when it needs to be, it is a bit muddy, an electric fence (to keep the cows herded) forms our left hand side. The entire walk to the visitor centre is breathtaking every time you thing you have reached the top another rise awaits you. It is packed at the visitor centre and we don’t linger at the top for too long. The journey is as enjoyable as the destination.

    Back at our B&B we find out that there is a house party with Irish legend Christy Barry. We manage to snag the last couple of tickets and drive to the Barry house. Christy’s wife Shiela welcomes us and gives us a seat in her living room while the other 20 or so guests arrive. Settled in with a glass of wine we listen to Christy and another local musician play traditional music and regale the gathering with stories that trace Irish traditional music from the times it was banned by the Catholic Church until modern times. Shiela serves smoked salmon and various cheeses. It is great fun and an enjoyable 90 minutes which flys by.

    We leave there and head to Fitz’s for a night cap and a bit of food - Laurie’s love of smoked salmon isn’t as strong and she’s still a bit peckish. A traditional Irish trio is playing there and we catch a few songs while we dine on pub food.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Bodhran, Beer and Beaches
    Dingle Peninsula drive
    Windy narrow roadDingle LighthouseJohn Benny's great musicHalf Door restaurant, delicious

    Half Door and Music

    11 września 2018, Irlandia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    There is nothing like sharing your breakfast time with the cows in the field next door. All of us grazing away happily. Bambury’s Guest House is lovely as is Dingle.

    The morning is nice as we head out to travel the “Dingle Loop” - a much smaller tour then the Ring of Kerry. Dingle as a town is much nicer than Killarney but the Ring of Kerry is much more scenic. We complete the loop in an hour and then head out for a walk to the lighthouse at the harbours entrance a 6 km out and back with lovely views of the harbour and an old Norman fortification.

    We take a quick, late lunch at John Benny’s, grab a few groceries and when we head out it is pouring rain so we high tail it back to Bambury’s and relax for the balance of the afternoon because tonight is music and fine dining.

    Dinner is at the Half Door and it is spectacular, I start with the Lobster Bisque and then move on to the salmon - both outstanding. Laurie has the steak and you can cut it with a fork it is so tender. We pair the meal with a Burgundy Cote de Beaune and it works with such diverse choices. Laurie’s pavlova is as good as she can remember.

    After dinner we head to the Dingle Pub for some Irish music and then bar hop to John Benny’s for another set; while all of the duo’s we have seen so far have been fiddle/guitar this duo is accordion/guitar and the sound works surprisingly well. After some time we manage to make our way home.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Bodhran, Beer and Beaches
    Starting the Ring of Kerry
    Charlie Chaplin - WatervilleSkellig Michael in the distanceReplica Beehive Village found on Skellig MichaelCliffs of KerryRugged and BeautifulView from the Skellig Experience museumStopped for lunch on Valentia IslandCahergal - Ring Fort

    Ring of Kerry

    10 września 2018, Irlandia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Today is Monday, I find on holidays it is important to remind yourself of that fact every so often. The forecast calls for intermittent rain. We look forward to the intermittent parts as we leave Killarney at 7:30AM.

    We are driving the Ring of Kerry today. We are following the Rick Steeves method - leave early and go the opposite direction of the big tour buses. By doing so, Rick asserts we will avoid encountering any of them; as they cannot travel on the lower loop - the Skellig Ring.

    Much of the Ring of Kerry is amazing seascapes but the first part takes you through Killarney national park up and through Mol’s gap - lakes and mountains. We stop in Kenmare for breakfast at the quaint Jam Cafe before venturing back out again.

    As we drive along the south coast of the Iveragh Peninsula, the scenery is spectacular, the cloud ceiling is reasonably high and the rain is mostly stopped. As we head up the Coomakista Pass we encounter a flock of sheep grazing at the “side” of the road and since there are no real sides it means they are on the road, eating bits of grass, wandering along - where’s Tucker?

    When we head over the mountain, we arrive in Waterville and stop for a coffee at the Butler Arms Hotel and gaze out at the Ballinskelligs bay. Charlie Chaplin made Waterville his home for a period of time and the statue commemorates that fact.

    Shortly afterwards we leave the main ring - no tour buses encountered and hit the Skellig Ring. Skellig Michael is a remote shard of land seven miles off the coast where 6th century monks eked out an existence preserving civilization. They lived there for five hundred years in beehive stone buildings eating fish and sea birds, growing root vegetables and supporting a few goats for milk. Today it is a favourite of Star Wars fans as it is the scene of the latest Star Wars films. Ironically? fittingly? the last Jedi lives there. On a clear day, with much planning, you can take a tour of the island or around the island.

    We head to the self proclaimed “best cliffs in Kerry” and are not disappointed. An enterprising family have opened up a section of their land and have created lovely pathways right up to the cliffs edges. The views really are spectacular, it is not raining thankfully but the winds are fierce. I can’t imagine what it is like here in winter - although it doesn’t get to minus 40.

    A wee bit later we drive onto Valentia Island, visit the Skellig Experience, and have lunch at the Royal Valentia Hotel before catching a little ferry back to the main land. Shortly after that we hit the main ring, no buses - thanks Rick.

    The ring fort of Cahergal is our last stop. The fort was built around 600AD, it is approximately 50 metres wide and 6 metres high with walls 3 metres thick. it is built without any mortar. They didn’t have the precision of the Incas but it is still an amazing structure. They dot the landscape throughout western Ireland and were used for defensive purposes.

    We head on to Dingle and the Bambury Guest House. Dingle and Kinsale vie for the best food town in Ireland and we have a great meal at the Chart House. Some of our favourite food with artistic presentation - Laurie’s favourite meal of the trip so far.

    It is Monday, and Monday after summer is over, the bars are much quieter. We can not find any music so we head home and go to bed.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Bodhran, Beer and Beaches
    Kinsale's colorful streets
    Our walking tour guide BarryKinsale CourthouseCobh St. Colman's CathedralOrgan and Rose windowKinsale National Park - Muckross LakeMuckross House and Garden inside the National Park

    Relaxing Sunday

    9 września 2018, Irlandia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Today is a quiet Sunday as we sleep in a bit. It’s nearly 9AM by the time we work our way down stairs to the Jo’s bakery/cafe for breakfast. Yummy breakfast bun and cinnamon roll french toast! We have booked a walking tour with Barry, but it doesn’t start until 11:15, so we tour the shops and wander around Kinsale. Kinsale is a cute little seaside town with winding streets and colorful shops and houses.

    Barry is a local legend and highly thought of throughout Ireland. His nearly two hour tour of the history of Kinsale is fascinating. A natural harbour with favourable winds, Kinsale was the sight of the fourth Spanish Armada invasion who aligned with Irish rebels to kick the English out of Ireland. It failed and the key clans, most of whom were from Northern Ireland, were stripped of their land. The regifting of the land to Scottish and English is a major factor in the modern day split of Ireland. Kinsale is also where the Lusitania was sunk by the Germans in WWI. Much of the land is reclaimed as the river began silting up the inner harbour.

    Sadly we exit Kinsale and head to Cobh (“Cove”). It is a beautiful island town with an amazing Cathedral dominating the horizon. We have a picnic lunch at the harbour and make our way up to the cathedral. Cobh is also where the Titanic made its last stop before its fatal rendezvous with an iceberg.

    After leaving Cobh, we drive to our hotel in Killarney. Checked in, we go for a hike in Killarney National Park, check out the Abbey from 1541, and the gardens of Muckross House before heading to O’Connell’s pub and then dinner at Murphy Brownes - a restaurant formed by two foodies who’s last names are Murphy and Browne - there is no evidence of Candace Bergen anywhere. The meals are well prepared if not adventurous but the South African Leopards Leap Pinotage/Shiraz is very good.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Bodhran, Beer and Beaches
    Glendalough
    St. Kevin's CellPoulanass WaterfallThe Monastic City siteRock of CashelFishy Fishy Restaurant

    Beyond the Pale

    8 września 2018, Irlandia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    I think Laurie may still be taping her toes after last nights play as we wake up and say goodbye to Dublin. We have our last breakfast at Trinity Townhomes and take a “My Taxi” (its like Uber but with taxi cabs) to the Hertz Rental car and pick up our VW Polo. We have rented many a Polo before while travelling in Europe. Laurie drives, I navigate - we’re both happy.

    We are heading “beyond the pale”, past the safe confines of Dublin and over the Wicklow mountains to Kinsale - we will stop twice along the way; first in Glendalough and then in Cashel.

    An hour out of Dublin, Glendalough is in the heart of the “mountains”, the tallest of which is an ear popping 800m above sea level. Nonetheless the area is lovely and was the home to one of the first monasteries in the world - founded in the 6th century by St Kevin (I find it anti climactic to even type St. Kevin, it sounds like a dude from California). The monastery continued for eleven hundred years, surviving Viking raids, plagues, Norman conquest until.... you guessed it.... Oliver Cromwell and the British came. There are still lots of ruins and being in the mountains some lovely hiking trails, lakes and waterfalls. It is one of six national parks in Ireland and well worth the stop and hike.

    Our second stop is ninety minutes further south and takes in even more winding and back roads. We were lucky to have good weather in Glendalough but our luck does not hold on the drive to Cashel.

    When you arrive on the outskirts of Cashel you are immediately struck by the fortified cathedral dominating the landscape. It is built on an escarpment on one half and fortified everywhere. It was destroyed by.... wait for it..... Oliver Cromwell and the British and stands in partial ruin. We take a guided tour and learn about the history of the castle/cathedral. When Cromwell and his parliamentarian gang conquered the castle they slaughtered all nine hundred people inside. Recent excavations have proven a baby was thrown down a well during that time period and records speak to the atrocities committed. It is said to be haunted but that has not been recorded or proven, but if ever a place.....

    We get back to our car and drive a final ninety minutes to Kinsale. We are staying at Jo’s Cafe and Rooms. It is Camino esque. Clean, simple, small. It is over a bakery. The smells in our room are incredible, is it chocolate chip cookies or maybe brownies, we will have to just wait until morning!

    Dinner tonight is at Fishy Fishy, the highly acclaimed restaurant of celebrity chef Martin Shanahan. A restaurant where the menu mentions both the fish and the fisherman. I have Sean Murphy’s monkfish, caught this morning; Laurie has steak. My fish is paired with a Chardonnay, Laurie’s steak a Malbec. The food is delicious, the atmosphere unpretentious, the service lacking. We wander 400 feet to our little B&B.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Bodhran, Beer and Beaches
    St. Stephen's Green
    U2 Made in DublinGPO General Post OfficeEpic MuseumTall Ship Jeannie JohnsonChapter One for dinnerJimmy's Hall production at Abbey Theatre

    Jimmy's Hall

    7 września 2018, Irlandia ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    A sunny day in Ireland is a good day and as we wake up it is a good day. Refreshed after our pub crawl last night we hit the breakfast room a bit later than yesterday - its almost 8AM.

    We set off for St. Stephen’s Green the city’s park. Phoenix Park is much much larger but it is on the outskirts of Dublin town; St Stephen’s is in the heart of the city small, pretty, and lots of history from the 1916 rebellion that started Ireland’s path to independence.

    We had received a recommendation from people we met on the pub crawl last night to go to the Little Museum of Ireland and it was well worth the visit. It is a small Georgian house with each room set up to explore key things about Ireland. Well curated it doesn’t try to do to much - they had a nice presentation about women in Ireland. We stopped along the way to grab a PSL for Laurie at Starbucks - yes, Pumpkin Spice Latte’s are a thing in Ireland as well.

    Our second museum is the General Post Office - headquarters for the rebels in the aforementioned rebellion. The post office bears the scars of the battle as the British retook control of Dublin within the week. The buildings around the post office are new as they had been destroyed in the shelling. After buying stamps (it is still a post office) we then go the museum and learn more about the uprising, the causes and the various sub groups that all were rebelling for their own reasons against the British - a short film concludes which outlines how the rebels took control of the city but ultimately couldn’t hold it for very long.

    We stop for lunch at Lanigan’s pub. Lanigan must be the patron saint of single men as we are the only couple in the place - I feel like a rock star.

    After our quick bite and beer we head to the new EPIC Emigration museum which is billed as an interactive museum outlining the history of Irish emigration. It has 20 rooms set in an old dockyard storage building, going through each room to get your passport stamped. It started out so promising for the first three or four rooms then it quickly loses steam and by the end you are stamping your passport just in case they won’t let you leave after room 20.

    It is 2:40 when we are allowed to emigrate from the not-so-epic and we debate whether to go home or go the Jeannie Johnson the “famine” ship which is right next door. Underwhelmed by that-was-not-epic and armed with the Dublin pass that gives you free admission to so many places, we decide to see the replica famine ship. We have a 3PM tour and there are only four of us (the last group must have been forty). The other couple are from Hamilton the tour is thankfully quaint and relatively short.

    We head home, change, and get ready for our pre-theatre dinner at Chapter One - the highly acclaimed Michelin starred restaurant. Going on the Camino and surviving with carry on luggage I have left my tuxedo at home; Laurie somehow has managed to dress impeccably. I have never had brazed lamb neck before; it is surprisingly good, as is Laurie’s pork tenderloin - the sommelier has managed to find a wine from southern France that works with both dishes. The service is adequate but not Michelin starred - they have probably caught on to the fact that we are not secret reviewers for Michelin.

    After dinner we walk to the Abbey Theatre for their presentation of Jimmy’s Hall - it is fantastic - full of Irish music and great musicians. It is a fusion of Footloose and Irish Civil war. Telling the tale of Jimmy Gralton, a communist deported to America who returns to Ireland to set up a dance hall in his home town in defiance to the Catholic Church during the Irish Civil war in the 1930’s. It is based on the 2014 film of the same name and despite the tragic nature of so many Irish stories it manages to be uplifting.

    We catch a night cap at a crowded Friday evening pub before retiring for a well earned sleep.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Bodhran, Beer and Beaches
    The National Gallery
    Guinness in Gravity BarKilmainham Gaol - now the set for many moviesGrace Plunkett's cell, she painted her cell - only the Madonna remainsFirst stop Oliver St. John Gogarty's PubCrossing to the North side on Ha'Penny Bridge

    Daily Grog

    6 września 2018, Irlandia ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Turning your internal clock around isn’t always easy and Laurie has had a restless sleep. We get up early and are at our breakfast spot at the 7AM opening. It is a full breakfast and we depart caffeinated and full.

    It is raining lightly as we walk to the National gallery a couple of blocks away. The gallery is part of a series of National museums all in the same part of town - similar to the Smithsonian museums. It is a decent if not spectacular collection of art work - some Rembrandt’s, a Vermeer, a few Ruebens, a bunch of early renaissance works and a whole floor of Irish painters.

    Cultured up, we go full tourist and take the Hop on Hop off bus to the Guinness Storehouse for a 45 minute long advertisement for Guinness that ends with a pint of beer in the Gravity bar 7 stories up with a nice view over the city. It was free with our Dublin pass (thankfully) and I am no more a fan of Guinness now than I was before - luckily Ireland has so much more to offer in the ways of craft beer now.

    Today has been logistically fine tuned, which is another way of saying we have a schedule to keep, and we leave Guinness and catch our HoHo bus to the Kilmainham Gaol for a pre-booked 12:45 tour of this famous prison which housed many a political prisoner but most notably the leaders of the Easter 1916 rebellion. The Gaol is a national museum and if it wasn’t obvious before, it is now, the Irish have not been well treated by the British over the 700 years that the English were lords and masters. The potato famine of the late 1840’s being the worst example of English rule. It is very well presented and you don’t have to hate the English to enjoy it. The Gaol closed in 1923 and fell into disrepair until the early 1960’s when it was restored and used as a location for many movies including the following:
    The Italian Job, 1969
    The Mackintosh Man, 1973
    The Last Remake of Beau Geste, 1977
    The Whistle Blower, 1987
    In the Name of the Father, 1993
    Michael Collins, 1996

    After the tour we linger for a while and explore the museum before HoHo’ing to the Jamieson Distillery for more alcohol and advertising. We both find Jamieson’s to be a better tour and it culminates with a taste test of Jamieson’s, Jack Daniels and Johnie Walker Black label - the best selling brands of each particular type of whiskey. Irish Whiskey is definitely smoother than its counterparts if not as full of flavour.

    By now I am amazed that Laurie has stayed awake, and with a big evening ahead, we HoHo it back to our hotel and have a 45 minute power nap - not in the schedule but important nonetheless.

    Amazingly refreshed we head out for our evening Musical Pub Crawl which starts in Temple Bar at Oliver St John Gogarty’s for a quick bite before beginning our pub crawl. It is a fun 2+ hours at three pubs. It is informative and we make new friends - singing along (quietly). A great time. It is a precursor (hopefully) of things to come on the Irish west coast.

    We end at a north side bar and walk home to our hotel for a good nights sleep.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Bodhran, Beer and Beaches
    Dublin Castle clock towerDining Hall Dublin CastleThe Temple BarJames Joyce Statue Inside Temple BarChrist Church CathedralChrist Church AltarSaint Patrick's CathedralLocks Michelin restaurant

    Church and State

    5 września 2018, Irlandia ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Traveling business class is a guilty pleasure - it is very expensive, it is indulgent and it is so nice to arrive at your destination well rested - thank you Aeroplan points. We breeze through customs, get our bags and our SIM card and catch a taxi to our hotel Trinity Townhomes (née Lodge - they changed it last week). We booked the place last year; it is a Georgian four story building and has been lovingly renovated with everything but an elevator - we are staying at the top floor - Laurie’s bag weighs 40.2 lbs (she is “kind of” packing for two).

    It is just after noon when we head out to Dublin Castle the first stop on our trip today, having been here before I know the place like the back of my hand and we only get lost once along the way. Dublin Castle is the seat of power in Ireland since the time of the Vikings. It’s not super castle-y any more but has lovely state apartments “Versailles like” or perhaps rather “Versailles light”. We arrive at 12:30 and sign up for a 2 PM tour so we take the time to view the Chester Beatty Library of manuscripts - an amazing collection of illustrated and written works. It is far more interesting than the singular Book of Kells and far more impressive in its breadth and depth. They have a 150AD manuscript of the writings of the New Testament (very simple), some early Qur’an’s (very detailed) and some early illustrated Bibles. In addition they have a whole section of far eastern manuscripts and drawings. There is also a fascinating study of religions.

    The tour of the castle and state apartments is also very interesting our guide is informative, funny and worth the wait. Feeling peckish we head to the famous Temple Bar for a pint and a snack while listening to some live music - Laurie has a Guinness I have an IPA we split a charcuterie plate.

    It’s later in the day so we head to the other seat of power Christ Church Cathedral - it is nice and contains an original Magna Carta (the only original outside of England) along with the usual treasury plates and goblets - the Irish don’t go for elaborate on either their castles or their cathedrals; their bars however...

    We walk to the Lochs Restaurant situated on the Grand Canal it is a Michelin restaurant - Laurie’s Gnocchi is sublime as is the ceviche starter, my rib eye with duck fat chips is delicious and pairs well with the Alentejo wine; Laurie orders a chocolate Grenache. We are both exhausted and can barely stay awake in the taxi ride back to our hotel, it is 8:30 pm.     Czytaj więcej

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