Liñares

Today was supposed to be a very challenging 2500+ foot climb which was going to be a challenge, but it turns out the hill wasn’t the big challenge of the day. We started out about 7am which would mean hiking in the dark for an hour and a half as the day awoke. All good so far…

The first section was full headlights along a very quiet mountain road with only a couple of cars. The locals are pretty used to this but likely think we are crazy. As the sky started to lighten, we realized we were in a magical green countryside with cows eating in quiet fields and super quaint villages. We grabbed our classic Spanish breakfast at a stone albergue and then started the climb. Yes, it was steep but it was a walk through a wonderland of deep green forests with moss and fern laden stone walls lining the way. The path continued to a ridge with a small church at the top. It was absolutely one of the best days of hiking in my life.

From here, there was a few miles to the summit and the village of O’Cebreiro with nine remaining pallozas, or round houses. They are thought to be over 1000 years old. A very special place.

I was amazed at the ease of our climb today. Either over a month of hiking has conditioned us, or the fact that we found our first switchbacks in Spain made the climb seem easier than anticipated. I just imagine some young whipper snapper Galician engineer, trying to prove himself, say “why go straight up the hill? Some switchbacks could save energy!” That’s my thought anyway 😂.

And now for the true challenge of the day. We are staying in the village of Liñares where we booked an albergue a week ago. Turns out there are two Liñares in Spain and our booking was in the Linares hundreds of miles away. So no room for the night and some of our luggage was set to go to a place that isn’t even on the Camino 😢. Well, they say the Camino provides and it does. The Camino Liñares only has one place to stay and they had just two beds left! AND they got on the phone and found our bag. To make it all better, the two people in the beds across from us are our new super friends Sara and Andrew. The Camino continues to provide and amaze.Read more