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Morocco: Kasbahs and Camels

February - March 2024
A 17-day adventure by Diane Read more
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  • Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and Camels
    1
    Day 1

    Colorful Chefchaouen

    February 14 in Morocco ⋅ 🌬 70 °F

    Our first day in Morocco! In the morning we flew from our stopover city of Madrid to Tangier. We were met by a guide we’d arranged in advance to take us on a 2-night tour of this northern part of Morocco.

    We started with a few sights around Tangier, including the “Hercules cave,” where legend says he rested after breaking apart the continents of Europe and Africa. But more interesting to us were the arc-shaped carvings over all the walls—evidence of the Berbers’ excavations for millstones for making olive oil, and where archaeologists have found artifacts from prehistoric times.

    Nearby is Cape Spartel, the point where the Mediterranean meets the Atlantic—where you can see Spain across the Strait of Gibraltar. Finally, we carried on to Chefchaouen, a 3-hour drive south. We were attracted to this town because of the photos we’d seen of the blue painted walls throughout. Our riad (guesthouse) is wonderfully decorated!    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and Camels
    Day 2

    Blue City and Green Mountains

    February 15 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Our guide Ali took us around the winding pedestrian streets of old town Chefchaouen, pointing out the highlights and history of the city.

    The city was founded in the late 1400s as a fortress to defend against attacks from Portuguese forces. Not long after, it received an influx of Jews escaping the Spanish inquisition, who brought a tradition of painting buildings blue. It is said that the color mirrors the sky and reminds them of God. Helpfully, the blue color keeps the area cooler and deters mosquitoes. We’re here in winter so heat and bugs aren’t a concern.

    Ali was very proud of his city for its local crafts and community feeling. Several wood-fired bakeries offered baking services to residents who bring their bread dough. We saw rug and blanket weavers at work, and women selling their produce on the streets. We also learned that public education is free for children from age 3 through university, although private schools are also available.

    Throughout the day, we heard the calls to prayer from the loudspeakers on the surrounding mosques (5 times a day). Ali pointed out that going to prayer is not compulsory in Morocco (unlike in Saudi Arabia, he would say).

    Later we took a 5-mile hike up into the Rif Mountains in Talassemtane National Park, less than an hour away from Chefchaouen. The park was only established 20 years ago, so it is dotted with long-standing small villages (and some of their accompanying trash). The views from our very steep climb were well worth the effort!    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and Camels
    1
    Day 3

    Tetouan & Tangier

    February 16 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Leaving Chefchaouen in the morning, we had two more sightseeing stops before we left this corner of Morocco. First up was Tetouan, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, designated in part for the long and varied history of its old city (dating to the 3rd century BC), and also for its preservation of traditional arts and crafts.

    After a walk around the walled city of Tetouan, taking in the various architectural influences from the Jewish, Spanish, French and Arabic residents over time, we were able to visit the School of Arts and Crafts. The school opened in 1916, and was established for the conservation and passing on of Arab-Andalusian national heritage. Young people of approximately middle school age were working at a wide range of crafts, from embroidery to woodworking, metalworking, ceramics and more.

    We then drove on to Tangier, which at one time, until Moroccan independence from the French in the 1950s, was considered an international zone, governed by a committee of 11 different countries. Our tour in Tangier took us to the site of the king’s summer residence, and around the old marketplace, where we saw lots of finished examples of the handicrafts we’d seen at the school in Tétouan.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and Camels
    21
    Day 4

    Rabat, Capital City and Site of Royalty

    February 17 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    After a train ride yesterday from Tangier, we arrived at Rabat, where we would meet our Collette tour group. We have a group of 24 people and a trip leader who is originally from Berber family heritage.

    A little about Morocco: it is a constitutional monarchy, the only monarchy of three remaining in Africa (2 others in former Swaziland). The people love their current king, Mohammed VI. He lives relatively simply—one wife (not multiple), two children, and he chooses to live in the residence he had as the prince, outside of the city, rather than in the royal palace in Rabat.

    Our tour group visited the royal compound (outside only), where formal functions are held. The site is guarded by all the branches of the military, including the royal guards. This practice was instituted after a failed army coup of the reign of Mohammed VI’s father, Hassan II. (That’s what happened to the many other former monarchies in Africa.) Hassan figured if all branches were charged with protecting him, no one group would gain power.

    We also were able to visit only the outside of the Chellah Necropolis, a walled town containing both pre-Roman ruins and a medieval necropolis. Within the last six months, archaeologists have confirmed new discoveries at the site with a footprint almost five times the size of Pompeii, and they were busy at work excavating inside.

    Our last stop with the bus was to the tomb of Mohammed V, the grandfather of the current king. He is much revered, because he negotiated Morocco’s independence from France in 1955.

    With our free afternoon, we had lunch at a Turkish restaurant, visited Rabat’s contemporary art museum and took an hour walk back to our hotel.

    In the evening, we were treated to dinner at a restaurant serving traditional Moroccan fare (which we’ve been enjoying very much in our previous days). We were quite satisfied with the pastilla (flaky pastry chicken pie) and salads, but then came the main dishes! Two different tagines (marinated braised chicken and beef), and roasted chicken on a bed of shredded very light pita bread that was like noodles. Sorry we didn’t get more food photos! Of course there was entertainment, but only by men—drumming and singing.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and Camels
    Day 5

    Onward to Fes, with Wine Tasting

    February 18 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    On the 3-hour journey to Fes, we drove through relatively flat farmland, with the foothills of the Atlas Mountains in the background. Olive orchards predominated the scenery, with some wheat fields, sheep farms and Eucalyptus windbreaks added in for variety.

    We stopped at a winery estate for a tour, tasting and lunch. You’re probably thinking—a winery in a Muslim country, what’s that about? Well, we learned that even though alcohol is prohibited by Islamic law, it is not strictly illegal in Morocco. In fact, there are bars in the cities and some restaurants, and 80% of wine and beer production stays in the country, with 20% exported.

    Some 80% of the wineries in Morocco are owned by one large corporation. But Domaine Zouina, which we visited, is an independent winery, owned by two French families who came to Morocco to produce French wine with Moroccan grapes in Moroccan soil. The vineyard and winery is kind of their sandbox to play around with new techniques that they might not be able to do in France.

    Although our trip leader, Mohamed, downplayed expectations for the wine in advance, saying the point of the visit was to highlight the seeming paradox of winemaking in a Muslim country, we thought the wine was quite tasty, especially when paired with so many delicious Moroccan dishes.

    Before lunch we got a brief tour of their winemaking facilities, but with a surprise—Domaine Zouina is experimenting with aging in clay jars imported from Italy (much like the amphora in ancient Rome). They won’t even taste it themselves for another year, but they are hoping they’ll be able to bring a unique product to the market.

    Driving on for another hour, we arrive ld in Fes, the second-largest city in Morocco (pop. 1.8-ish million). We are staying in a beautifully restored riad (guesthouse) in one of the oldest districts of Fes.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and Camels
    Day 6

    Medieval City of Fes

    February 19 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    (We have added a short paragraph at the end of yesterday’s post, and about 8-9 photos, since each day has a limited number of photos on this app, and Fes has a lot of interesting things to share!)

    The medina (old city) of Fes was founded in 808. There are several districts of varying age: what they call the old city (9th century), the “new city” (11th century) and the modern urban Ville Nouvelle area founded during the French colonial era, beginning in 1912. The old city is completely car-free (although there are donkeys and hand carts to move goods around).

    In the morning, we walked out to where our bus could meet us, and drove around to a few sights accessible by car, beginning with the 195-acre Royal Palace (just the outside). There are 12 royal palaces in Morocco, and the king uses most of them for various occasions.

    We also visited a ceramics factory, which used to use olive-wood fired kilns, but now are fueled by natural gas. Otherwise, their techniques are traditional and completely hand-made with natural glazes.
    Mosaic tiles are made in 350 shapes, all hand-hammered/chiseled. It was fascinating to watch them at work.

    We also visited the University of al-Qarawiyyin in Fez, founded in 859, which is recognized by UNESCO as the oldest existing degree-granting university.

    Finally, we took a long, slow walk through the winding pathways of the 9th century part of the city, with so many food stalls and small manufacturing cubbyholes —one man and a sewing machine, copper workers, woodworking, leather and yarn dyeing. The Moroccan weavers commonly use yarn made from agave strands (called cactus silk). It is luminescent like silk, and very soft, yet durable.

    Speaking of food, all our meals have been so tasty—seasonings of cumin, cinnamon, cloves, caramelized onions, garlic and herbs. And always mint tea after our meals.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and Camels
    Day 7

    Day Trip to Roman Ruins of Volubilis

    February 20 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Leaving Fes in the morning by bus, we drove into the countryside, first passing the Royal farm, which supplies the royal palace in Fes. Then we moved on to private farms of fava beans, barley, chickpeas, coriander, parsley and groves of olives and pomegranates. All ingredients for the tasty meals we’ve been eating (including Harira, a traditional Moroccan soup we have before nearly every dinner).

    After a couple of hours, we arrived at Volubilis, a UNESCO World Heritage site with well-preserved Roman ruins dating to 100 BC. This was a thriving city for 400 years before the Berbers pushed out the Romans in 300 AD.

    The site occupies 250 acres, and only 1/3 of it is excavated, mostly due to lack of funding. There is no evidence of active excavations. Still intact are several of the mosaic floors with vibrant colors, and numerous columns. We could wander freely around the site with a local guide. It was sunny and not too warm, and there were relatively few other visitors.

    We then moved on to the village of Moulay Idriss Zerhoun, where the founder of Fes was born and is buried. He was a descendant of the prophet Mohamed and the first Muslim king of Morocco. (Previous monarchies were under Berber rulers.) People make pilgrimages to this town because of the connection to the prophet. Before there were hotels, the locals would open their homes to visitors, and our lunch was in one of those homes. It was about a 10-minute walk through more winding alleyways, much like the old town of Fes.

    Finally, we did a drive-by of 17th century Meknes, famous for its ramparts. This was during a time when Morocco was under attack from numerous Europeans countries, as well as the British. The Sultan Moulay Ismail (king from 1672-1727) built 3 sets of walls and enough granaries to withstand a 10-year siege, as well as a secret aqueduct (so it couldn’t be poisoned).

    Sultan Moulay Ismail’s grandson is the one who signed the longest running peace treaty the U.S. has signed. In 1786, Morocco was the first country to formally recognize American independence, a document that remains the longest unbroken relationship in U.S. history.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and Camels
    1
    Day 8

    Driving Toward the Sahara

    February 21 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Leaving Fes, we had a 9-hour journey ahead of us to get close to the Sahara Desert. We crossed two mountain ranges—the Middle Atlas and High Atlas—and saw the scenery change from green farmland, fruit orchards (apple, cherry, almond) and forests (cedar and oak), to dry, rocky, tan-colored terrain.

    We stopped every couple of hours—once in the charming alpine ski village of Ifrane (only around 4,500 feet elevation). The town was built during French occupation, which accounts for its European architecture. Another stop was for a short hike in a cedar forest. Cedar trees are protected here, and most of the wood decoration in the old cities is from cedar wood.

    We passed what’s called “semi-nomadic” settlements—makeshift huts where the nomadic people are living. They traditionally would live in caves in the mountains during summer, near a water source and tend their herds of sheep (and some goats), then move to lower elevations in the colder months. But nomads are finding it harder to find places to bring their herds as the land is getting more built up. The sheep are kept for their wool for carpets and clothing.

    All of northwest Africa used to be nomadic. Now there are only about 25,000 nomads left, and the number is decreasing because the younger generation don’t want to live that way anymore.

    Our road south was once an old caravan trail, between the desert and Fes. Many former casbahs (fortresses) were perched on the cliffs to protect the trade route. The asphalt road was constructed by the French foreign legion in 1926, and obviously kept since then. By the way, the roads have been in excellent condition everywhere we’ve been.

    Although the ride was long, it wasn’t boring—the scenery was interesting and Mohamed kept us entertained with stories and information. Our hotel tonight is in a replica of a kasbah, called Kasbah Hotel Xaluca and is wonderfully decorated, inside and out.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and Camels
    Day 9

    Fossils, Date Farm and Desert Camp

    February 22 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    We’re on our way to the Sahara! But first we have a stop in Erfoud, where the economy is primarily based on date farming (in the Ziz valley) and fossil extraction and processing into works of art. This area is rich in fossils from the time when this area was a vast ocean. We saw fossils ranging from 480 to 520 million years old, and learned about the process of turning them from hunks of rock into beautiful art pieces.

    Changing from bus to Land Rovers, we stopped at an oasis and date farm. The community owns individual plots of date palms in the farm, and also plants subsistence crops for personal use—wheat, barley, cilantro, cabbage, carrots, and the like. The dates and other crops are watered through a series of canals, and the community members take turns channelling the water through their plot.

    Soon we turned off the road and traveled across the sand to our desert camp for two nights. We never get tired of seeing the different formations made by sand dunes and scouting out animal tracks.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and Camels
    Day 10

    A Day in the Desert

    February 23 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Our day at camp began with a camel ride after breakfast. The scenery was beautiful, as were the clothing of the camel drivers, but 45 minutes was enough time, even with padding over the hump.

    Then we got into our relatively comfortable 4x4’s to drive out into the desert to meet with Mr. Amar and his family, a former nomad and now a semi-nomad. Two things changed his nomadic way of life—a longstanding drought, making it hard to find grazing ground for his herds of sheep and goats, and the 1994 closure of the Algerian border, which further limited his access to grazing land and markets for trading. So now he’s been here for six years, and no longer moves around.

    He lives part-time in a tent and part time in an adobe structure nearby (no roof), depending upon the temperatures. His son and daughter-in-law and their three children all live together. They have no refrigeration, so they buy what they need for the week at the weekly market, and dry, or preserve meat in oil or salt. He rents his camels for a living and his son is a seasonal worker.

    Next, we stopped by a Muslim cemetery right at the Algerian border. Mohamed talked a bit about Muslim burial rituals and a little bit about why the border was closed (some repercussions of the Cold War, look up the Sand War of 1963).

    Finally, we visited a school and demonstration site for Gnawa music. This music is a bit like gospel music, in that it arose from black tribes—some nomadic farmers, some slaves.    Read more

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