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Spain 2023 - Almeria/Cazorla
  • Elaine and Ned

Spain 2023 - Almeria/Cazorla

We're walking from Almeria on the Ruta del Argar to the Parque Natural de Cazorla where we will pick up the GR 247. A map of our route is here: https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/edit?mid=1ERMUl_n9lASIh2n-8TJlr3A7HcK49SM&usp=sharing Leer más
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  • Inicio del viaje
    10 de marzo de 2023
    Elaine and NedSpain 2023 - Almeria/CazorlaViajero

    Seattle - Madrid - Almeria

    10 de marzo de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    A walk along the Mediterranean and fresh fish for lunch made it a great first day in Spain. Although we arrived as planned, our hiking poles decided to have a little vacation of their own by spending an extra night in London. (They are packed in a cardboard tube and traveling as checked luggage since TSA will not allow them in our carry-on packs.) We are hoping they will catch up with us tomorrow!

    We salvaged the day by walking today’s planned route in reverse. We took a taxi to the seaside village of Retamar and then walked in the reverse direction back to Hotel Los Arcos near the airport.

    Two days from now, we hope to be rounding Cabo de Gata, seen in the background of the first photo. It is the southeastern-most point in Spain.

    Today’s Wikiloc track: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/el-alquia…    Leer más

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  • Elaine and NedSpain 2023 - Almeria/CazorlaViajero

    Day 2: El Alquián

    11 de marzo de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    A spectacular five-star day due to the time we spent at one of my favorite places - a library, of course. A few steps up to the librarian’s desk and a few minutes wait while a book was retrieved from the reserved reference area, and I had in hand a real treasure: Augustin Sánchez Hita’s El Patrimonio Historico de la Alpujarra y Rio Nacimiento, a book I’ve been waiting three years to see. Its 300 pages are filled with exquisite details on life through the ages in the villages of the Sierra Nevada, covering everything from medieval acequias (water channels) to 20th century mines.

    Armed with copious notes from the library, we set out for Decathlon (Spain’s version of REI) to replace our hiking poles. Thanks to the AirTag tracker we had packed in the tube, we know that our poles are spending a second day in Madrid with no sign of progress toward Almería. Nor did any of the phone numbers we managed to dig up offer any satisfaction. So we decided it is best to get a new set of poles and literally and physically be ready to move on tomorrow.    Leer más

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  • Elaine and NedSpain 2023 - Almeria/CazorlaViajero

    Day 3: Retamar to San Miguel

    12 de marzo de 2023, España ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Sunshine + Sunday = hundreds of people out enjoying the track today… cyclists, runners, dog-walkers, fishermen, and many more. Today’s track was all within Cabo de Gata Natural Park, so the beautiful views were not marred by the infamous “Mar de Plástico”, the sea of plastic greenhouses so extensive it can be seen from space.

    The track was mostly sand and gravel, easy to navigate. You can’t get lost as the track is bordered by a wooden fence the entire way. There are medieval watchtowers, ruins of a Roman fish factory, a Roman well, and a chapel. We also saw our first Ruta del Argar route marker today. The church bells in San Miguel were ringing as we arrived. You can hear them in the 6 second video attached!

    Today’s Wikiloc track, 9.88 km: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/retamar-e…    Leer más

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  • Elaine and NedSpain 2023 - Almeria/CazorlaViajero

    San Miguel to Cabo de Gata

    13 de marzo de 2023, España ⋅ 🌬 66 °F

    We are taking it easy today and tomorrow to enjoy the geography of this very southeastern-most tip of Spain. It was only 6 km from San Miguel to our casa rural in a small group of six houses that cluster around the lighthouse here.. On the way, we passed the bird blinds at the salt lagoons (sadly, no flamingos today) and a huge salt-mining operation. The water delivery truck was arriving just as we got to the house, so we got to see that operation and reflect upon what it is going to be like as water becomes more scarce on many parts of our planet.Leer más

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  • Elaine and NedSpain 2023 - Almeria/CazorlaViajero
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    Cabo de Gata rest day

    14 de marzo de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Today, Cabo de Gata is a spot quite conducive to contemplation and reflection with its repetitive sounds of surf and wind. It wouldn’t have been anywhere near as peaceful if you had happened to be here eight million years ago when the collision of the African continental plate and the European plate caused an eruption of titanic proportions. A pillar of smoke, ash and molten rock over 200 metres wide shot into the air faster than the speed of sound to a height of over 20,000 metres. Tsunamis were generated that reached a height of 20 metres as they sped across the Mediterranean Sea to crash onto the shores of North Africa only minutes later. On our little walk to the beach and the lighthouse we saw plenty of evidence of this cataclysm in the cliffs that drop sharply to the sea and the finger-like formations that project out of the water. There’s a 30 second video of the surf at the end of today’s photos.Leer más

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  • Elaine and NedSpain 2023 - Almeria/CazorlaViajero
    2

    Cabo de Gata to San José

    15 de marzo de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    This was our third time traversing the 12 km between the Cabo de Gata lighthouse and the village of San Jose, and we loved it just as much as the first two times (on our mountain bikes, riding on the Ruta Transandalus). So we knew exactly what to expect - first, a steep climb of about 800 feet up to the pass, then an equally sharp descent, and finally a fairly level walk past beaches that have been featured in films like Indiana Jones, all through the iconic volcanic landscape protected by the Parque Natural - no condos dominating the hillsides here!

    We were a bit surprised to see a lot of flowering plants today, given that this is the driest area in the Iberian peninsula, The humidity here is what makes the difference. It is unusually high for a semi-arid zone - around 75%. Cold air flows down from the Sierra Nevada mountains each night and hits the warm, moist air of the Mediterranean causing a heavy dew that nourishes the plants.

    Now we are happily settled into our cozy apartment, eating apple tarts from our favorite bakery!

    Today’s Wikiloc track: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/cabo-de-g…    Leer más

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  • Elaine and NedSpain 2023 - Almeria/CazorlaViajero
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    San José to Los Escullos

    16 de marzo de 2023, España ⋅ 🌬 68 °F

    It was only 9.3 km to Los Escullos today, but it’s a bit if a scramble to get up to the top of the pass, so we felt like we had a full day. The explanatory signposts along the way have all been renewed since the last time we were here, and they are so complete that we feel like we had a real education regarding the geology of this area. Lots of sun and wind all day accentuated the deep blue of the Mediterranean.

    When we got to Los Escullos and checked into the hotel, we asked the manager what time lunch began in the restaurant. “El restaurante está cerrado.” Uh, oh. We asked if there was a food shop in the tiny village. Nope. We must have looked really hungry, because she asked if we would like to share the staff lunch. What a kind gesture! It was delicious spaghetti carbonera.

    Arrows in photos:
    Red - today’s scramble
    Yellow - yesterday’s pass over Cabo de Gata
    Green - Mesa Roldán, where we will be in three days

    Today’s Wikiloc track: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/san-jose-…    Leer más

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  • Elaine and NedSpain 2023 - Almeria/CazorlaViajero
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    21121

    Los Escullos to Las Negras

    17 de marzo de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Today was a bit of a tough day. There was more scrambling up and down very steep, rocky hillsides than what we had anticipated. All of it was accompanied by gorgeous scenery, though. We had an unexpected bonus just as we were entering Las Negras. We met a shepherd leading his flock of 814 goats. Ned had a good talk with him as the goats flowed around us.

    Today’s Wikiloc track: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/los-escul…    Leer más

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  • Elaine and NedSpain 2023 - Almeria/CazorlaViajero
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    Las Negras to Agua Amarga

    18 de marzo de 2023, España ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    When I was planning this walk, one of the parts, I was most looking forward to was the stage from Las Negras to Agua Amarga. I spent a lot of time looking at the topo map of this area and convinced myself that the climb out of Cala de San Pedro was easily doable (200 m in 0.7 km/656 ft in 0.4 miles). This morning we reassessed that decision in light of our experience on the trail yesterday. For someone like me with balance issues even on a flat stretch, picking my way between boulders on an eroded, steep track with loose stones underfoot is probably not a wise idea, so very sadly, we made the decision to take a taxi to Agua Amarga. Tomorrow we will walk the missing part in the reverse direction and be able to do half of the stage we missed today, stopping before the steep path on the cliff.Leer más

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  • Elaine and NedSpain 2023 - Almeria/CazorlaViajero
    11

    Agua Amarga, day 2

    19 de marzo de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    It’s hard to say which was the highlight of the day: the fantastic breakfast included with our room at Hotel Family or the views from the track back towards Las Negras. We had read in a hiking blog that Hotel Family is a great place for walkers to stay, and it certainly lived up to the recommendation.

    The track between here and Cala del Plomo is boulder and erosion free - much easier to navigate than the parts near Las Negras. The weather is another marvel. Sunshine and 72 F today, with no rain forecast (yet) for the rest of March and April. Great for us, but not for the farmers.    Leer más

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  • Elaine and NedSpain 2023 - Almeria/CazorlaViajero
    112

    Agua Amarga to Carboneras

    20 de marzo de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    This 10 km stretch is really interesting from an industrial architecture point of view. Aqua Amarga was the terminus for a mining railroad from the interior of Armeria to the Mediterranean in the late 1800s and early 1900s. Iron ore was shipped out and supplies destined for the mine were shipped in from here. Mine supplies were landed by ship and lifted up to the railway on the headland using a static engine that pulled small wagons up a very steep ramp using cables. We saw the line of the railroad when we rode our bikes along the track when we were riding the Transandalus in 2009. But we never got to see the terminus, so we were very excited today to see that our current route followed the remains of the cable ramp up to the headland (and, yes, it is definitely steep) where we saw the remains of the terminus. It must have been an incredible operation.

    The fourth photo shows Ned, having shed his own pack, kindly coming back to carry my pack up the steepest part! I was afraid I was going to topple over backwards… and it looked like a long way down.    Leer más

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  • Elaine and NedSpain 2023 - Almeria/CazorlaViajero

    Carboneras port

    21 de marzo de 2023, España ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    We are not making any forward progress on the trail for another four days while we wait for my appointment with a podiatrist here to get her opinion on a foot problem I’m having. Luckily, there is plenty to see here!

    Carboneras, population 8212, is a real working town, quite unlike the small coastal villages we’ve been walking through. We knew we were getting close yesterday when we spotted the tall chimney of the Central Térmica, and then suddenly came around the corner to see ships loading from overhead conveyors, trucks full of coal heading to the cement plant, and tankers full of olive oil leaving the oil plant. This area of the port shipped out 5.5 million tons of gypsum from the mines near Sorbas in 2022! Sandwiched between all this activity is the desalination plant. Quite an interesting 2 km for walkers.    Leer más

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  • Elaine and NedSpain 2023 - Almeria/CazorlaViajero

    Carboneras: Watchtowers and Pirates

    22 de marzo de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Walking the coastal route from Almería, we have almost always been able to see watchtowers on the horizon, one on a headland in front of us, and another on a headland behind. In fact, the Ruta del Argar coincides for 100 km with the Senda Pirata, named after the towers and castles used in defense against pirate attacks during the 16th and 17th centuries. [Batería de San Felipe (Los Escullos), Castle of San Ramón (Rodalquilar), Castle of San Pedro (Las Negras), Torreón de Mesa Roldán (Agua Amarga), and more.]

    One of the worst incursions began at a cove just to the north of Carboneras where we are today. On November 28, 1573, at dawn, a large number of pirates from Morocco under the command of Al Dugâlî landed here. The 700-800 attackers were spotted, but the governor of Cuevas de Almanzora thought the report was a false alarm. As a result, the pirates were able to kill all fifty of the men in the village and take the women and children to Africa for ransom.    Leer más

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  • Elaine and NedSpain 2023 - Almeria/CazorlaViajero

    Carboneras: Groceries and more

    23 de marzo de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    After several stages with nothing but one-room tiendas, it’s a bit overwhelming to shop in the big Mercadona in Carboneras. So many choices. Even the nearby Spar is bigger than usual. We’ve been happy to get our favorite Ines Rosales tortas for €1.79 a package - about 1/5 of the price we pay at home. And you can get freshly squeezed orange juice from a machine in the supermarket! There’s also a Bazar Chino for things like replacing a lost comb or getting rubber tips for the hiking poles we bought after British Air misplaced ours. No more clack, clack from the metal tips as we walk down the road!Leer más

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  • Elaine and NedSpain 2023 - Almeria/CazorlaViajero
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    Carboneras: Around town

    24 de marzo de 2023, España

    One of the nicest things about staying in a residential area of town is getting to see little bits of local life that you might otherwise miss. Our first hint of this was hearing a series of chiming beeps on Tuesday morning. Often this signals that the bread van is in the neighborhood, or that the propane truck is here to exchange full canisters for empty ones. But to our surprise when we leaned out our window, this chime was from a water truck. Neighbors began to line up with their jugs and various other containers to fill up. Maybe we’re the only ones drinking tap water around here?

    More testaments to local life past and present are scattered around town: the moving statue of strong hands weaving esparto grass; the monuments to fishermen and to the crew that filmed scenes from Lawrence of Arabia in a cove just north of here; the substantial old building that is now the House of Music; and the graceful curves carved in the sand by the beach grooming machine.    Leer más

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  • Elaine and NedSpain 2023 - Almeria/CazorlaViajero

    Carboneras: A visit to the podiatrist

    25 de marzo de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Today was the big day, and it turned out well. The podiatrist was knowledgeable, helpful, and kind. She diagnosed two different problems: arthritis in my toe, and fibularis tendonitis in my ankle and leg. Both are already improving. She gave me exercises to do, suggested a bit more rest, and said I should see a physiotherapist if it continues. She also suggested some changes I can make to my orthotics. The cost of all this? Free. What a kind person!

    So we will stay here until Monday morning and then continue on the trail.

    It is 74 degrees F and sunny here today. Ned is headed to the beach!    Leer más

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  • Elaine and NedSpain 2023 - Almeria/CazorlaViajero

    Carboneras: Wrapping up loose ends

    26 de marzo de 2023, España ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Today was a day for wrapping up loose ends here in Carboneras. Taking care of my foot has, of course, thrown our planned itinerary out the window. I had made all of our reservations for Easter week, Semana Santa, long ago because it is a very busy time in Spain. Today I canceled all of our previous reservations and tried to make new ones. Of course, at this late date it is very difficult to find a place to stay in tiny villages that may have only one casa rural, but we put our heads together, studied every available option, and think we have a workable plan.

    Our clothes are washed, they’ve dried in the sunshine on the roof, last-minute groceries are bought, Ned’s hair is cut, we’ve mingled with the Sunday crowds and watched them play petanca, and we’re excited to finally be on the move again tomorrow!    Leer más

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  • Elaine and NedSpain 2023 - Almeria/CazorlaViajero
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    Carboneras to Sopalmo: The tunnel

    27 de marzo de 2023, España ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    What a magnificent day! The trail was full of variety with the highlight being a 400 meter water pipe tunnel that took us through a hill rather than over it. I had worried a bit about the tunnel ahead of time, wondering if my mild claustrophobia would make it impossible for me to walk through. It turned out to be no problem. In fact, it was a pleasure because it was shady and cool inside. You can literally see the light at the end of the tunnel when you enter, and it’s about ten feet wide and ten feet high. No earthquake occurred while we were walking through, and we didn’t get buried in any rubble, so none of my fears came true!

    The rest of the track offers lovely views, lots of variety, and if you are as lucky as we were, sightings of wild ibex leaping from crag to crag. We went by the site of the infamous Algarrobico Hotel, under construction for more than 20 years at a cost of over €70 million, and now slated for demolition. It was built within the boundaries of the Natural Park, and has been the subject of years of opposing court decisions regarding its legality. It sits on the same pristine beach where a replica of the Jordanian village of Aqaba was built in 1962 to film scenes from Lawrence of Arabia.

    We are now resting happily (my foot is especially pleased) at Venta El Molino just outside Sopalmo. Their lunch menu del día was perfect for hungry walkers.

    Link to today’s Wikiloc track: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/carbonera…    Leer más

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  • Elaine and NedSpain 2023 - Almeria/CazorlaViajero

    Sopalmo: Venta El Molino

    28 de marzo de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Today was devoted to … eating! We spent an hour at breakfast, and another two hours at lunch. In between, we got to talk to members of the family that have owned this venta for 33 years. Everyone from the hard-working grandmother to the motorcycle-riding granddaughter helps out with the cooking and cleaning. They included us in all the activities of the day from the arrival of the bright purple school bus to the delivery of €400 worth of olive wood. Later, Ned found a sunny place to listen to music right outside our room while I concentrated on my foot exercises. Tomorrow we are walking to Mojacar.Leer más

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  • Elaine and NedSpain 2023 - Almeria/CazorlaViajero
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    Sopalmo to Mojacar

    29 de marzo de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    You know from our earlier posts that I am happy to make a trip all the way to Spain just to see a book that has historical information in it that can come to life in my mind as we are walking. So when I tell you the story of what happened this morning, you will know why today was a stellar day for us.

    We ate breakfast at the Venta El Molino with the family Fernández-Cervantes. They shared some more wonderful stories about their lives here in the province of Almería. When we told them how much it meant to us to be able to get to know them during our stay, Sonia (the motorcycling granddaughter) hopped up, left the room, and came back with a treasure that she put in our hands: a book that she herself wrote with Fran Martin, a professor of history. It is a gorgeous volume full of photos and drawings that lays out the story of her grandmother during the years of Spain’s Civil War. Her grandmother was a child in Malaga when the war began. She was part of the infamous exodus to Almería, walking the road between the two cities with hundreds of other refugees, all being strafed by German planes. She spent part of her childhood in the air raid tunnels under the streets of Almeria; moved next to Orán in Algeria, and then on to Barcelona and Valencia; and finally back to Almería. Sonia showed us photos on her phone of the interviews her now 94-year-old grandmother gave in Madrid recently. The book is such an incredible gift that tears come to my eyes as I describe it to you.

    And then to top it all off, we had our last day of walking in the protected area of the Cabo de Gata Parque Natural under blue skies and warm sunshine. Now we are in Mojácar, ready to explore the old part of the pueblo tomorrow.

    Link to today’s Wikiloc track:
    https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/sopalmo-m…    Leer más

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  • Elaine and NedSpain 2023 - Almeria/CazorlaViajero
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    Mojácar: Around town

    30 de marzo de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Mojácar pueblo (as opposed to Mojácar Playa, the tourist-dominated beach strip 3 km below) is well-worth taking a day to explore. Its labyrinthine maze of streets dates from Muslim times. Around every corner you see a flower-bedecked Indalo, the symbol of Mojácar, and recently, of all Almeria. The original drawing of a man with outstretched arms holding a rainbow was found in Paleolithic caves nearby. There is also a fine little museum here. A school group headed to it passed under our windows this morning, so we waited until afternoon to see the house lovingly restored by a Russian couple who moved here. They filled us in on details of the town’s history. For example, in Muslim times the town would have looked very different because whitewash was not used then.

    Back home, it was time for washing and mending clothes. I’m sure glad I brought along a rectangle of self- stick nylon tenacious tape since I have now managed to twice rip the fabric on the knees of my only pair of pants!    Leer más

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  • Elaine and NedSpain 2023 - Almeria/CazorlaViajero

    Mojácar to Garrucha

    31 de marzo de 2023, España ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    Today was our last day of walking along the coast. From here, we will be turning inland and heading towards the Sierra de Cazorla.

    The route from Mojacár Pueblo down towards the sea was a peaceful walk with the scent of orange blossoms to accompany us. But what a shock to reach the busy beach stretch between Mojácar and Garrucha! The traffic noise was deafening after our quiet days within the park boundaries. Luckily, Garrucha had two interesting events going on to distract us: it was market day with all the sights and sounds that entails; and four tugboats were escorting a big ship out of the harbor. Ned looked up the details using the app Marine Traffic. It’s the Astra Perseus, a bulk carrier 643 feet long, headed to Gibraltar.Leer más

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    Garrucha: Swimming!

    1 de abril de 2023, España ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    No, not us. But the consistently 70 + degree F weather we’ve had since we arrived convinced someone to enjoy the water today.

    Garrucha and Mojácar are only about 7 km apart and have similar populations of about 6000 people, but you could hardly find two towns that physically look more different on a map. Mojácar has an intricate street plan typical of towns established during the years of Muslim rule, where nothing meets at right angles. In Garrucha, on the other hand, almost every street looks like it was drawn by a ruler. Garrucha actually was a Muslim village at one time, but that village was completely destroyed by an earthquake in 1518. It was then rebuilt, flourishing first as a fishing village, and later becoming the port for the silver and iron mines located just inland from here. Like Agua Amarga, it had a 700 meter aerial cable that was used to transport the iron ore to ships. The cable and its support towers are all gone now, but the port is still active. We saw ships anchored just offshore waiting to take the place of the cargo ship that we watched being escorted out of the harbor yesterday.

    Tomorrow: walking to Vera.    Leer más

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  • Elaine and NedSpain 2023 - Almeria/CazorlaViajero

    Garrucha to Vera

    2 de abril de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Ever since we knew there was a city named Vera in Spain, we’ve wanted to visit it. So today’s walk was filled with thoughts of our wonderful oldest daughter - named Vera! - her aunt, Vera Inga, who taught me how to be a teacher - and all the other Veras ( and Viras) who enrich our lives!

    Stage 6 of the Ruta del Argar takes a literal and a metaphorical turn after Garrucha. Rather than continuing up the coast, it turns inland and heads through orchards of oranges, lemons, and olives alternating with fields of irrigated crops. We saw extensive evidence of the pipes carrying the water and wondered if some of it was coming from the desalination plant we passed in Carboneras.

    We arrived in Vera just in time to see the procession forming for Palm Sunday. It would have been great to watch, but hunger took precedence, and we headed to the hotel tapas bar instead. The enthusiastic Sunday crowd there was a show of its own.    Leer más

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    Vera: Bells

    3 de abril de 2023, España ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    We thought we were being smart this morning by getting to the main plaza just before 10 o’clock so we would have a chance to look around and then do a short video as the church bells rang the hour. As you will see, Ned started the video a few seconds before 10, panning across the facade of the fortress church that helped defend Vera against pirate attacks, and then he waited … and waited … for the bells to ring. Just after he finally gave up and turned the video off, of course, the bells began to ring. We were impressed with the sturdiness of the church with its thick walls and defensive towers at all four corners. All the windows are high, the door is stout, and I’d love to see the key that fits in that lock.

    Nearby we stumbled across a traveling exhibition about the mining history of this area, including one of the hoppers that carried ore along the aerial tramway to Garrucha - sort of like a chair on a ski lift. Mining profits paid for many of the fine houses near the main plaza here.

    Our final stop was at the water museum that contains a restored lavadero where thirty women at a time could have their own basin for washing clothes. It’s the biggest lavadero we’ve seen in Andalucía. It was fed by a fountain that has carried water from a spring since Muslim times more than 1000 years ago.

    Tomorrow, we are walking to Cuevas de Almanzora.    Leer más

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