3月 – 6月 2023

Spain 2023 - Almeria/Cazorla

We're walking from Almeria on the Ruta del Argar to the Parque Natural de Cazorla where we will pick up the GR 247. A map of our route is here: https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/edit?mid=1ERMUl_n9lASIh2n-8TJlr3A7HcK49SM&usp=sharing もっと詳しく

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旅行の開始
2023年3月10日
Spain 2023 - Almeria/Cazorla 旅行者
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日1
2023年3月10日金曜日
☀️ 72 °F
海抜: 33 m
スペイン Almería Airport 36.852493, -2.3526536°51’9” N 2°21’10” W
Seattle - Madrid - Almeria
2023年3月10日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F
A walk along the Mediterranean and fresh fish for lunch made it a great first day in Spain. Although we arrived as planned, our hiking poles decided to have a little vacation of their own by spending an extra night in London. (They are packed in a cardboard tube and traveling as checked luggage since TSA will not allow them in our carry-on packs.) We are hoping they will catch up with us tomorrow!

We salvaged the day by walking today’s planned route in reverse. We took a taxi to the seaside village of Retamar and then walked in the reverse direction back to Hotel Los Arcos near the airport.

Two days from now, we hope to be rounding Cabo de Gata, seen in the background of the first photo. It is the southeastern-most point in Spain.

Today’s Wikiloc track: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/el-alquia…もっと詳しく
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Laurie ReynoldsSo glad you’re there. Not even missing hiking poles can ruin this day — your smile proves that. Fingers crossed the poles arrive soon and you can be well and truly walking.
2023/03/10返信する翻訳する
旅行者great photos
2023/03/10返信する翻訳する
旅行者Gorgeous!
2023/03/11返信する翻訳する
旅行者MFelicitas--How beautiful to see the Mediterranean!!
2023/03/11返信する翻訳する
15いいね
Spain 2023 - Almeria/Cazorla 旅行者
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日2
2023年3月11日土曜日
☀️ 70 °F
海抜: 33 m
スペイン Almería Airport 36.852383, -2.35269136°51’9” N 2°21’10” W
Day 2: El Alquián
2023年3月11日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F
A spectacular five-star day due to the time we spent at one of my favorite places - a library, of course. A few steps up to the librarian’s desk and a few minutes wait while a book was retrieved from the reserved reference area, and I had in hand a real treasure: Augustin Sánchez Hita’s El Patrimonio Historico de la Alpujarra y Rio Nacimiento, a book I’ve been waiting three years to see. Its 300 pages are filled with exquisite details on life through the ages in the villages of the Sierra Nevada, covering everything from medieval acequias (water channels) to 20th century mines.

Armed with copious notes from the library, we set out for Decathlon (Spain’s version of REI) to replace our hiking poles. Thanks to the AirTag tracker we had packed in the tube, we know that our poles are spending a second day in Madrid with no sign of progress toward Almería. Nor did any of the phone numbers we managed to dig up offer any satisfaction. So we decided it is best to get a new set of poles and literally and physically be ready to move on tomorrow.もっと詳しく
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旅行者How perfect of you to start your journey with this visit to a library, retrieving a rare book!
2023/03/12返信する翻訳する
旅行者What a perfect start! Love it.
2023/03/28返信する翻訳する
17いいね
Spain 2023 - Almeria/Cazorla 旅行者
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日3
2023年3月12日日曜日
⛅ 66 °F
海抜: 7 m
スペイン Playa Cabo De Gata 36.780727, -2.24357536°46’51” N 2°14’37” W
Day 3: Retamar to San Miguel
2023年3月12日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F
Sunshine + Sunday = hundreds of people out enjoying the track today… cyclists, runners, dog-walkers, fishermen, and many more. Today’s track was all within Cabo de Gata Natural Park, so the beautiful views were not marred by the infamous “Mar de Plástico”, the sea of plastic greenhouses so extensive it can be seen from space.

The track was mostly sand and gravel, easy to navigate. You can’t get lost as the track is bordered by a wooden fence the entire way. There are medieval watchtowers, ruins of a Roman fish factory, a Roman well, and a chapel. We also saw our first Ruta del Argar route marker today. The church bells in San Miguel were ringing as we arrived. You can hear them in the 6 second video attached!

Today’s Wikiloc track, 9.88 km: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/retamar-e…もっと詳しく
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旅行者I love these buildings -- your photos are really great!
2023/03/13返信する翻訳する
旅行者A garum factory? The very thought makes me wrinkle my nose. Those bells!
2023/03/28返信する翻訳する
16いいね
Spain 2023 - Almeria/Cazorla 旅行者
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日4
2023年3月13日月曜日
🌬 66 °F
海抜: 15 m
スペイン Playa Ancón 36.726273, -2.19387636°43’35” N 2°11’38” W
San Miguel to Cabo de Gata
2023年3月13日, スペイン ⋅ 🌬 66 °F
We are taking it easy today and tomorrow to enjoy the geography of this very southeastern-most tip of Spain. It was only 6 km from San Miguel to our casa rural in a small group of six houses that cluster around the lighthouse here.. On the way, we passed the bird blinds at the salt lagoons (sadly, no flamingos today) and a huge salt-mining operation. The water delivery truck was arriving just as we got to the house, so we got to see that operation and reflect upon what it is going to be like as water becomes more scarce on many parts of our planet.もっと詳しく
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旅行者Even at one of the places I would consider safe in terms of water reserve the villages tanks were almost dry by the end of the summer. Unused to there ever being a problem with water availability people were still filling their mini pools for the season in their backyards. This had me reflecting on water scarcity as well. Coming from the Sonoran desert to the shores of Cape Breton I was thinking of water abundance. There are springs and rivers galore. But the scarcity is showing up and had I not been staying with locals from there I wouldn't have know about it.
2023/04/03返信する翻訳する
16いいね
Spain 2023 - Almeria/Cazorla 旅行者
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日5
2023年3月14日火曜日
☀️ 66 °F
海抜: 15 m
スペイン Playa Ancón 36.726315, -2.19386536°43’35” N 2°11’38” W
1
Cabo de Gata rest day
2023年3月14日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F
Today, Cabo de Gata is a spot quite conducive to contemplation and reflection with its repetitive sounds of surf and wind. It wouldn’t have been anywhere near as peaceful if you had happened to be here eight million years ago when the collision of the African continental plate and the European plate caused an eruption of titanic proportions. A pillar of smoke, ash and molten rock over 200 metres wide shot into the air faster than the speed of sound to a height of over 20,000 metres. Tsunamis were generated that reached a height of 20 metres as they sped across the Mediterranean Sea to crash onto the shores of North Africa only minutes later. On our little walk to the beach and the lighthouse we saw plenty of evidence of this cataclysm in the cliffs that drop sharply to the sea and the finger-like formations that project out of the water. There’s a 30 second video of the surf at the end of today’s photos.もっと詳しく
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旅行者What a beautiful location! And fascinating how the geography was formed. Very much enjoying “traveling” with you :)
2023/03/14返信する翻訳する
旅行者These days, my preferred mode of travel is through your journals... ;)
2023/03/14返信する翻訳する
旅行者Walking beside the ocean is a bonus ❤️🙏having your in-depth knowledge of the history must have really added to your appreciation ❤️❤️
2023/03/16返信する翻訳する
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18いいね
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日6
2023年3月15日水曜日
☀️ 68 °F
海抜: 12 m
スペイン La Molina 36.76532, -2.1076836°45’55” N 2°6’28” W
2
Cabo de Gata to San José
2023年3月15日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F
This was our third time traversing the 12 km between the Cabo de Gata lighthouse and the village of San Jose, and we loved it just as much as the first two times (on our mountain bikes, riding on the Ruta Transandalus). So we knew exactly what to expect - first, a steep climb of about 800 feet up to the pass, then an equally sharp descent, and finally a fairly level walk past beaches that have been featured in films like Indiana Jones, all through the iconic volcanic landscape protected by the Parque Natural - no condos dominating the hillsides here!

We were a bit surprised to see a lot of flowering plants today, given that this is the driest area in the Iberian peninsula, The humidity here is what makes the difference. It is unusually high for a semi-arid zone - around 75%. Cold air flows down from the Sierra Nevada mountains each night and hits the warm, moist air of the Mediterranean causing a heavy dew that nourishes the plants.

Now we are happily settled into our cozy apartment, eating apple tarts from our favorite bakery!

Today’s Wikiloc track: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/cabo-de-g…もっと詳しく
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Laurie Reynolds Award-winning photo, just beautiful.
2023/03/15返信する翻訳する
旅行者Beautiful view. Quite a climb up from the beach tho 💪 ..
2023/03/16返信する翻訳する
旅行者Awesome! I’m so happy to tag along on your adventure this way, though my shoulders ache a bit looking at your packs. But I guess you’re used to it. The photos are beautiful and it looks like you’ve got nice weather.
2023/03/16返信する翻訳する
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16いいね
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日7
2023年3月16日木曜日 15:06
🌬 68 °F
海抜: 9 m
スペイン Castillo de San Felipe 36.803753, -2.06353436°48’14” N 2°3’49” W
1
San José to Los Escullos
2023年3月16日, スペイン ⋅ 🌬 68 °F
It was only 9.3 km to Los Escullos today, but it’s a bit if a scramble to get up to the top of the pass, so we felt like we had a full day. The explanatory signposts along the way have all been renewed since the last time we were here, and they are so complete that we feel like we had a real education regarding the geology of this area. Lots of sun and wind all day accentuated the deep blue of the Mediterranean.

When we got to Los Escullos and checked into the hotel, we asked the manager what time lunch began in the restaurant. “El restaurante está cerrado.” Uh, oh. We asked if there was a food shop in the tiny village. Nope. We must have looked really hungry, because she asked if we would like to share the staff lunch. What a kind gesture! It was delicious spaghetti carbonera.

Arrows in photos:
Red - today’s scramble
Yellow - yesterday’s pass over Cabo de Gata
Green - Mesa Roldán, where we will be in three days

Today’s Wikiloc track: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/san-jose-…もっと詳しく
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旅行者Gorgeous blue !!! It will be sad to head inland ? people are so kind in Spain. willing to share their food. phew. lucky for you 🙏❤️
2023/03/17返信する翻訳する
旅行者What a kind offer by the restaurant manager!
2023/03/18返信する翻訳する
旅行者 Hope the poles are working out for you!
2023/03/28返信する翻訳する
17いいね
Spain 2023 - Almeria/Cazorla 旅行者
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日8
2023年3月17日金曜日 16:55
☀️ 66 °F
海抜: 55 m
スペイン Las Negras 36.874535, -2.0155736°52’28” N 2°0’56” W
1
2 1 1 2 1
Los Escullos to Las Negras
2023年3月17日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F
Today was a bit of a tough day. There was more scrambling up and down very steep, rocky hillsides than what we had anticipated. All of it was accompanied by gorgeous scenery, though. We had an unexpected bonus just as we were entering Las Negras. We met a shepherd leading his flock of 814 goats. Ned had a good talk with him as the goats flowed around us.

Today’s Wikiloc track: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/los-escul…もっと詳しく
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旅行者Wow, that looks like a treacherous, but beautiful journey! Such wonderful photos.
2023/03/17返信する翻訳する
Laurie Reynolds Gorgeous!
2023/03/17返信する翻訳する
Laurie Reynolds Tell that man to use poles!!!!
2023/03/17返信する翻訳する
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15いいね
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日9
2023年3月18日土曜日 15:27
⛅ 66 °F
海抜: 10 m
スペイン Playa de Agua Amarga 36.939911, -1.937536°56’24” N 1°56’15” W
1
Las Negras to Agua Amarga
2023年3月18日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F
When I was planning this walk, one of the parts, I was most looking forward to was the stage from Las Negras to Agua Amarga. I spent a lot of time looking at the topo map of this area and convinced myself that the climb out of Cala de San Pedro was easily doable (200 m in 0.7 km/656 ft in 0.4 miles). This morning we reassessed that decision in light of our experience on the trail yesterday. For someone like me with balance issues even on a flat stretch, picking my way between boulders on an eroded, steep track with loose stones underfoot is probably not a wise idea, so very sadly, we made the decision to take a taxi to Agua Amarga. Tomorrow we will walk the missing part in the reverse direction and be able to do half of the stage we missed today, stopping before the steep path on the cliff.もっと詳しく
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旅行者When I showed the topo map to my darling, she said that if we were walking, she would ask to be roped up! That is steep, indeed!
2023/03/18返信する翻訳する
旅行者Wise Elaine, it sure looks steep. When in Nepal last October the guide in front of me would take my poles so that I could use my hands on the very steep sections with loose boulders (poles get stuck in between) and when needed would grab my hand. I was grateful for that! As if the high altitude was not enough😂
2023/03/19返信する翻訳する
旅行者You are ever the ‘wise one’ Elaine. Being cautious is the better decision knowing what you know now. Take care & buen camino
2023/03/19返信する翻訳する
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16いいね
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日10
2023年3月19日日曜日 11:50
☀️ 66 °F
海抜: 10 m
スペイン Playa de Agua Amarga 36.939953, -1.93757936°56’24” N 1°56’15” W
1 1
Agua Amarga, day 2
2023年3月19日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F
It’s hard to say which was the highlight of the day: the fantastic breakfast included with our room at Hotel Family or the views from the track back towards Las Negras. We had read in a hiking blog that Hotel Family is a great place for walkers to stay, and it certainly lived up to the recommendation.

The track between here and Cala del Plomo is boulder and erosion free - much easier to navigate than the parts near Las Negras. The weather is another marvel. Sunshine and 72 F today, with no rain forecast (yet) for the rest of March and April. Great for us, but not for the farmers.もっと詳しく
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Laurie Reynolds Love this picture. Looks like the weather is about perfect!
2023/03/19返信する翻訳する
旅行者 That's breakfast!? Oh, my. Wonderful.
2023/03/28返信する翻訳する
17いいね
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日11
2023年3月20日月曜日 17:42
☀️ 63 °F
海抜: 14 m
スペイン La Puntica 36.99929, -1.89123636°59’57” N 1°53’28” W
1 1 2
Agua Amarga to Carboneras
2023年3月20日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F
This 10 km stretch is really interesting from an industrial architecture point of view. Aqua Amarga was the terminus for a mining railroad from the interior of Armeria to the Mediterranean in the late 1800s and early 1900s. Iron ore was shipped out and supplies destined for the mine were shipped in from here. Mine supplies were landed by ship and lifted up to the railway on the headland using a static engine that pulled small wagons up a very steep ramp using cables. We saw the line of the railroad when we rode our bikes along the track when we were riding the Transandalus in 2009. But we never got to see the terminus, so we were very excited today to see that our current route followed the remains of the cable ramp up to the headland (and, yes, it is definitely steep) where we saw the remains of the terminus. It must have been an incredible operation.

The fourth photo shows Ned, having shed his own pack, kindly coming back to carry my pack up the steepest part! I was afraid I was going to topple over backwards… and it looked like a long way down.もっと詳しく
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Laurie ReynoldsSo glad you are getting to see all of these hidden gems. Can’t wait till you get to some of those Moorish water systems, because even though I’ve heard your descriptions, I have not really understood them. Pictures will be great! Lovely spot for today’s destination!
2023/03/20返信する翻訳する
旅行者 Heavens - congratulations… what a steep one ! Savour the view Ned. You earned it.
2023/03/21返信する翻訳する
旅行者 Gosh Elaine - you look pretty spivvy for a Peregrina ! Lovely colour.
2023/03/21返信する翻訳する
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14いいね
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日12
2023年3月21日火曜日 14:08
☁️ 64 °F
海抜: 16 m
スペイン La Puntica 36.999321, -1.8912336°59’58” N 1°53’28” W
Carboneras port
2023年3月21日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F
We are not making any forward progress on the trail for another four days while we wait for my appointment with a podiatrist here to get her opinion on a foot problem I’m having. Luckily, there is plenty to see here!

Carboneras, population 8212, is a real working town, quite unlike the small coastal villages we’ve been walking through. We knew we were getting close yesterday when we spotted the tall chimney of the Central Térmica, and then suddenly came around the corner to see ships loading from overhead conveyors, trucks full of coal heading to the cement plant, and tankers full of olive oil leaving the oil plant. This area of the port shipped out 5.5 million tons of gypsum from the mines near Sorbas in 2022! Sandwiched between all this activity is the desalination plant. Quite an interesting 2 km for walkers.もっと詳しく
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旅行者I sympathize with foot problems! Do you have any idea what it is? I hope you are still enjoying the weather, the setting, and the sites to be seen while "resting."
2023/03/21返信する翻訳する
旅行者Bummer about the foot problem. Glad to hear you can have it looked at where you stopped. Thankfully you factor time to look about as you go., so fingers crossed that you get it rested and better soon.
2023/03/21返信する翻訳する
15いいね
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日13
2023年3月22日水曜日 10:51
☀️ 63 °F
海抜: 16 m
スペイン La Puntica 36.999374, -1.89108336°59’58” N 1°53’28” W
Carboneras: Watchtowers and Pirates
2023年3月22日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F
Walking the coastal route from Almería, we have almost always been able to see watchtowers on the horizon, one on a headland in front of us, and another on a headland behind. In fact, the Ruta del Argar coincides for 100 km with the Senda Pirata, named after the towers and castles used in defense against pirate attacks during the 16th and 17th centuries. [Batería de San Felipe (Los Escullos), Castle of San Ramón (Rodalquilar), Castle of San Pedro (Las Negras), Torreón de Mesa Roldán (Agua Amarga), and more.]

One of the worst incursions began at a cove just to the north of Carboneras where we are today. On November 28, 1573, at dawn, a large number of pirates from Morocco under the command of Al Dugâlî landed here. The 700-800 attackers were spotted, but the governor of Cuevas de Almanzora thought the report was a false alarm. As a result, the pirates were able to kill all fifty of the men in the village and take the women and children to Africa for ransom.もっと詳しく
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旅行者I was wondering what the backstory was. Thanks - so interesting!
2023/03/28返信する翻訳する
旅行者Whoa there. These men who fail to listen. Life changing. 🤔. Your posts are so interesting
2023/03/28返信する翻訳する
旅行者Wow! what a story.
2023/04/03返信する翻訳する
14いいね
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日14
2023年3月23日木曜日 9:49
☀️ 61 °F
海抜: 16 m
スペイン Playa de Carboneras 36.999405, -1.89120836°59’58” N 1°53’28” W
Carboneras: Groceries and more
2023年3月23日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F
After several stages with nothing but one-room tiendas, it’s a bit overwhelming to shop in the big Mercadona in Carboneras. So many choices. Even the nearby Spar is bigger than usual. We’ve been happy to get our favorite Ines Rosales tortas for €1.79 a package - about 1/5 of the price we pay at home. And you can get freshly squeezed orange juice from a machine in the supermarket! There’s also a Bazar Chino for things like replacing a lost comb or getting rubber tips for the hiking poles we bought after British Air misplaced ours. No more clack, clack from the metal tips as we walk down the road!もっと詳しく
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旅行者We've never tried Ines Rosales tortas. Do you have them as snacks?
2023/03/23返信する翻訳する
旅行者Or for breakfast. A Spanish friend introduced them to us. They come in various flavors. Lots of calories to support a day of walking!
2023/03/23返信する翻訳する
旅行者We'll have to try them when we're on the Mozárabe next month ☺️
2023/03/23返信する翻訳する
Laurie ReynoldsTell us more - they say tortas de aceite, but that looks like sugar sprinkled on them, too. Glad you are eating well!
2023/03/23返信する翻訳する
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日15
2023年3月24日金曜日 13:05
海抜: 16 m
スペイン La Puntica 36.999348, -1.89121436°59’58” N 1°53’28” W
1 1 1
Carboneras: Around town
2023年3月24日, スペイン
One of the nicest things about staying in a residential area of town is getting to see little bits of local life that you might otherwise miss. Our first hint of this was hearing a series of chiming beeps on Tuesday morning. Often this signals that the bread van is in the neighborhood, or that the propane truck is here to exchange full canisters for empty ones. But to our surprise when we leaned out our window, this chime was from a water truck. Neighbors began to line up with their jugs and various other containers to fill up. Maybe we’re the only ones drinking tap water around here?

More testaments to local life past and present are scattered around town: the moving statue of strong hands weaving esparto grass; the monuments to fishermen and to the crew that filmed scenes from Lawrence of Arabia in a cove just north of here; the substantial old building that is now the House of Music; and the graceful curves carved in the sand by the beach grooming machine.もっと詳しく
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旅行者Great photos to accompany the stellar prose. Did not know LoA was filmed partly in Spain! How is your foot?
2023/03/24返信する翻訳する
旅行者The backstory is really interesting. The whole film crew and cast lived in Carboneras from February to June in 1962. Local people worked as crew and extras. They built a replica of the Jordanian village of Aqaba on a deserted beach just outside town. My foot seems better, so we’ll be walking by there on Sunday, I hope. The famous attack scene was filmed in a rambla we’ll be crossing.
2023/03/24返信する翻訳する
旅行者 Wonderful!
2023/03/28返信する翻訳する
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日16
2023年3月25日土曜日 13:48
☀️ 72 °F
海抜: 14 m
スペイン La Puntica 36.999199, -1.89120636°59’57” N 1°53’28” W
Carboneras: A visit to the podiatrist
2023年3月25日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F
Today was the big day, and it turned out well. The podiatrist was knowledgeable, helpful, and kind. She diagnosed two different problems: arthritis in my toe, and fibularis tendonitis in my ankle and leg. Both are already improving. She gave me exercises to do, suggested a bit more rest, and said I should see a physiotherapist if it continues. She also suggested some changes I can make to my orthotics. The cost of all this? Free. What a kind person!

So we will stay here until Monday morning and then continue on the trail.

It is 74 degrees F and sunny here today. Ned is headed to the beach!もっと詳しく
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Laurie ReynoldsI woke up with my fingers crossed that there would be good news. You kept me waiting a bit, but I’m so happy to see this!!!!
2023/03/25返信する翻訳する
旅行者Wishing you a prompt recovery, Elaine!
2023/03/25返信する翻訳する
旅行者We are glad you got some answers. Staying at the beach for a couple more days doesn't sound like a bad idea.
2023/03/25返信する翻訳する
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日17
2023年3月26日日曜日 15:48
⛅ 75 °F
海抜: 16 m
スペイン La Puntica 36.999352, -1.89124436°59’58” N 1°53’28” W
Carboneras: Wrapping up loose ends
2023年3月26日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F
Today was a day for wrapping up loose ends here in Carboneras. Taking care of my foot has, of course, thrown our planned itinerary out the window. I had made all of our reservations for Easter week, Semana Santa, long ago because it is a very busy time in Spain. Today I canceled all of our previous reservations and tried to make new ones. Of course, at this late date it is very difficult to find a place to stay in tiny villages that may have only one casa rural, but we put our heads together, studied every available option, and think we have a workable plan.

Our clothes are washed, they’ve dried in the sunshine on the roof, last-minute groceries are bought, Ned’s hair is cut, we’ve mingled with the Sunday crowds and watched them play petanca, and we’re excited to finally be on the move again tomorrow!もっと詳しく
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旅行者What gorgeous pics of the area’s trees and flowers! Enjoyed the bocce game too, participants look very serious 😄
2023/03/28返信する翻訳する
旅行者Speaking of flowers, we met a woman today who wants to begin an apiculture course but can’t because there aren’t enough flowers this year. She said normally the hillside beyond the venta would be covered with yellow flowers at this time of year, but this year there has not been any rain and the hillsides are bare of flowers. This is not good for farmers or bees!
2023/03/28返信する翻訳する
旅行者It’s been very dry in southern spain . With spring around the corner though (or happening now ).. I think it will get even prettier. That beach scene is beautiful.
2023/03/28返信する翻訳する
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日18
2023年3月27日月曜日 14:38
⛅ 68 °F
海抜: 140 m
スペイン El Agua del Medio 37.061485, -1.87749237°3’41” N 1°52’39” W
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Carboneras to Sopalmo: The tunnel
2023年3月27日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F
What a magnificent day! The trail was full of variety with the highlight being a 400 meter water pipe tunnel that took us through a hill rather than over it. I had worried a bit about the tunnel ahead of time, wondering if my mild claustrophobia would make it impossible for me to walk through. It turned out to be no problem. In fact, it was a pleasure because it was shady and cool inside. You can literally see the light at the end of the tunnel when you enter, and it’s about ten feet wide and ten feet high. No earthquake occurred while we were walking through, and we didn’t get buried in any rubble, so none of my fears came true!

The rest of the track offers lovely views, lots of variety, and if you are as lucky as we were, sightings of wild ibex leaping from crag to crag. We went by the site of the infamous Algarrobico Hotel, under construction for more than 20 years at a cost of over €70 million, and now slated for demolition. It was built within the boundaries of the Natural Park, and has been the subject of years of opposing court decisions regarding its legality. It sits on the same pristine beach where a replica of the Jordanian village of Aqaba was built in 1962 to film scenes from Lawrence of Arabia.

We are now resting happily (my foot is especially pleased) at Venta El Molino just outside Sopalmo. Their lunch menu del día was perfect for hungry walkers.

Link to today’s Wikiloc track: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/carbonera…もっと詳しく
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旅行者Loved the video commentary on entering the tunnel 🤗
2023/03/27返信する翻訳する
旅行者I’m glad it wasn’t as scary as I thought it would be!
2023/03/27返信する翻訳する
旅行者I have read about that hotel - probably in the Paul Preston book, A People Betrayed, which is appropriately subtitled "Political Incompetence and Social Division in Modern Spain". Since demolition would probably cost another €70 million, maybe it is destined to be like Las Medulas
2023/03/27返信する翻訳する
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日19
2023年3月28日火曜日
☀️ 66 °F
海抜: 140 m
スペイン El Agua del Medio 37.061455, -1.87751437°3’41” N 1°52’39” W
Sopalmo: Venta El Molino
2023年3月28日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F
Today was devoted to … eating! We spent an hour at breakfast, and another two hours at lunch. In between, we got to talk to members of the family that have owned this venta for 33 years. Everyone from the hard-working grandmother to the motorcycle-riding granddaughter helps out with the cooking and cleaning. They included us in all the activities of the day from the arrival of the bright purple school bus to the delivery of €400 worth of olive wood. Later, Ned found a sunny place to listen to music right outside our room while I concentrated on my foot exercises. Tomorrow we are walking to Mojacar.もっと詳しく
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Laurie ReynoldsThanks for sharing these snippets of daily life. Do you wonder/worry about how the family can keep this business going? Was there much of a lunch traffic, or any others in the pensión?
2023/03/28返信する翻訳する
旅行者I sure do think about that in each place we stay. All the rural villages around here are depopulating, especially the inland ones. There is no one else staying overnight here but us. However, they seem to do pretty well on the restaurant side. I asked them about it, and they said they are completely full during the summer season (because of their proximity to the beach). Even next week, they will be full for Semana Santa.
2023/03/28返信する翻訳する
Laurie ReynoldsI think I see some blue sea in one of the pictures — is this place walkable to the beach or sitting up high with a gorgeous view of it, or both?
2023/03/28返信する翻訳する
旅行者3.3 km straight down the road to the beach! (Ask me why we are taking the trail tomorrow instead, and probably spending twice as long descending some sheer drop!) I just added a photo before the video that shows the sea clearly as we were approaching the venta yesterday.
2023/03/28返信する翻訳する
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日20
2023年3月29日水曜日 15:57
☀️ 70 °F
海抜: 159 m
スペイン Plaza del Frontón 37.138851, -1.85112237°8’20” N 1°51’4” W
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Sopalmo to Mojacar
2023年3月29日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F
You know from our earlier posts that I am happy to make a trip all the way to Spain just to see a book that has historical information in it that can come to life in my mind as we are walking. So when I tell you the story of what happened this morning, you will know why today was a stellar day for us.

We ate breakfast at the Venta El Molino with the family Fernández-Cervantes. They shared some more wonderful stories about their lives here in the province of Almería. When we told them how much it meant to us to be able to get to know them during our stay, Sonia (the motorcycling granddaughter) hopped up, left the room, and came back with a treasure that she put in our hands: a book that she herself wrote with Fran Martin, a professor of history. It is a gorgeous volume full of photos and drawings that lays out the story of her grandmother during the years of Spain’s Civil War. Her grandmother was a child in Malaga when the war began. She was part of the infamous exodus to Almería, walking the road between the two cities with hundreds of other refugees, all being strafed by German planes. She spent part of her childhood in the air raid tunnels under the streets of Almeria; moved next to Orán in Algeria, and then on to Barcelona and Valencia; and finally back to Almería. Sonia showed us photos on her phone of the interviews her now 94-year-old grandmother gave in Madrid recently. The book is such an incredible gift that tears come to my eyes as I describe it to you.

And then to top it all off, we had our last day of walking in the protected area of the Cabo de Gata Parque Natural under blue skies and warm sunshine. Now we are in Mojácar, ready to explore the old part of the pueblo tomorrow.

Link to today’s Wikiloc track:
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/sopalmo-m…もっと詳しく
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旅行者Just...no words. Except beautiful.
2023/03/29返信する翻訳する
旅行者 I soooo love this photo! Gorgeous, strong, smart women....
2023/03/30返信する翻訳する
旅行者 This one too! The same adjectives apply. 💖
2023/03/30返信する翻訳する
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日21
2023年3月30日木曜日 15:13
☀️ 79 °F
海抜: 158 m
スペイン Plaza del Frontón 37.139378, -1.85199937°8’22” N 1°51’7” W
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Mojácar: Around town
2023年3月30日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F
Mojácar pueblo (as opposed to Mojácar Playa, the tourist-dominated beach strip 3 km below) is well-worth taking a day to explore. Its labyrinthine maze of streets dates from Muslim times. Around every corner you see a flower-bedecked Indalo, the symbol of Mojácar, and recently, of all Almeria. The original drawing of a man with outstretched arms holding a rainbow was found in Paleolithic caves nearby. There is also a fine little museum here. A school group headed to it passed under our windows this morning, so we waited until afternoon to see the house lovingly restored by a Russian couple who moved here. They filled us in on details of the town’s history. For example, in Muslim times the town would have looked very different because whitewash was not used then.

Back home, it was time for washing and mending clothes. I’m sure glad I brought along a rectangle of self- stick nylon tenacious tape since I have now managed to twice rip the fabric on the knees of my only pair of pants!もっと詳しく
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Laurie ReynoldsGreat pics and story, as always! I would pit you against “Tenacious Tape” any day, confident which of you would win the honor of that adjective. But that is a great tip, something I had never heard of. I will now stick some in my pack!
2023/03/30返信する翻訳する
旅行者It really is tenacious! I have some patches that have been on for years. Thin and strong - much better than iron-on tape. Comes in a range of colors. Weighs nothing. Repairs clothing, packs, rain gear…
2023/03/30返信する翻訳する
Laurie ReynoldsSo this means that I don’t have to figure out how to sew up my pants that ripped last year when I fell. So much easier to paste something on than to figure out how to sew, especially since these quick drying clothes aren’t like “normal” fabrics. I find it hard to use a needle and thread on them. Sorry to derail this lovely commentary, but thanks for the tip.
2023/03/30返信する翻訳する
旅行者Right - just align the edges and press down hard. Be sure to get the brand-name tape because the adhesive on some of the imitations is not as strong.
2023/03/30返信する翻訳する
旅行者one of my go to mending supplies! But I never thought of carrying some with me when walking!
2023/03/30返信する翻訳する
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日22
2023年3月31日金曜日 16:01
☁️ 79 °F
海抜: 18 m
スペイン Puerto de Garrucha 37.186577, -1.81946937°11’12” N 1°49’10” W
Mojácar to Garrucha
2023年3月31日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F
Today was our last day of walking along the coast. From here, we will be turning inland and heading towards the Sierra de Cazorla.

The route from Mojacár Pueblo down towards the sea was a peaceful walk with the scent of orange blossoms to accompany us. But what a shock to reach the busy beach stretch between Mojácar and Garrucha! The traffic noise was deafening after our quiet days within the park boundaries. Luckily, Garrucha had two interesting events going on to distract us: it was market day with all the sights and sounds that entails; and four tugboats were escorting a big ship out of the harbor. Ned looked up the details using the app Marine Traffic. It’s the Astra Perseus, a bulk carrier 643 feet long, headed to Gibraltar.もっと詳しく
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旅行者Its aways jarring to walke into a busy, urban area -- hope thins quiet down soon!
2023/03/31返信する翻訳する
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日23
2023年4月1日土曜日 13:30
☁️ 73 °F
海抜: 18 m
スペイン Puerto de Garrucha 37.186588, -1.81947937°11’12” N 1°49’10” W
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Garrucha: Swimming!
2023年4月1日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F
No, not us. But the consistently 70 + degree F weather we’ve had since we arrived convinced someone to enjoy the water today.

Garrucha and Mojácar are only about 7 km apart and have similar populations of about 6000 people, but you could hardly find two towns that physically look more different on a map. Mojácar has an intricate street plan typical of towns established during the years of Muslim rule, where nothing meets at right angles. In Garrucha, on the other hand, almost every street looks like it was drawn by a ruler. Garrucha actually was a Muslim village at one time, but that village was completely destroyed by an earthquake in 1518. It was then rebuilt, flourishing first as a fishing village, and later becoming the port for the silver and iron mines located just inland from here. Like Agua Amarga, it had a 700 meter aerial cable that was used to transport the iron ore to ships. The cable and its support towers are all gone now, but the port is still active. We saw ships anchored just offshore waiting to take the place of the cargo ship that we watched being escorted out of the harbor yesterday.

Tomorrow: walking to Vera.もっと詳しく
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Laurie Reynolds I love hearing and seeing Ned’s daily video!
2023/04/01返信する翻訳する
旅行者 Ned, great to hear your voice! We finally had a 55 degree day in MI! This was the first weekend we didn’t have measurable snow thankfully! Maybe spring is finally headed our way. Thank you for sharing.
2023/04/02返信する翻訳する
旅行者We on Shaw envy you the weather... still more like Winter than Spring here. Your descriptions of the history and the current life in these towns are stellar Elaine.
2023/04/02返信する翻訳する
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日24
2023年4月2日日曜日 14:48
☀️ 75 °F
海抜: 102 m
スペイン Vera 37.248857, -1.86944837°14’56” N 1°52’10” W
Garrucha to Vera
2023年4月2日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F
Ever since we knew there was a city named Vera in Spain, we’ve wanted to visit it. So today’s walk was filled with thoughts of our wonderful oldest daughter - named Vera! - her aunt, Vera Inga, who taught me how to be a teacher - and all the other Veras ( and Viras) who enrich our lives!

Stage 6 of the Ruta del Argar takes a literal and a metaphorical turn after Garrucha. Rather than continuing up the coast, it turns inland and heads through orchards of oranges, lemons, and olives alternating with fields of irrigated crops. We saw extensive evidence of the pipes carrying the water and wondered if some of it was coming from the desalination plant we passed in Carboneras.

We arrived in Vera just in time to see the procession forming for Palm Sunday. It would have been great to watch, but hunger took precedence, and we headed to the hotel tapas bar instead. The enthusiastic Sunday crowd there was a show of its own.もっと詳しく
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旅行者I have saved all the Vera photos! It has been wonderful to follow your journey through this site. We all look forward to the next day when we can read the next chapter. We can’t wait for you to come home so we can see all the photos. ❤️
2023/04/02返信する翻訳する
旅行者We’ll take lots more for you tomorrow. It’s fun to see your name every time we turn a corner!
2023/04/02返信する翻訳する
旅行者Well, the barking dogs certainly got my Chihuahua moving this morning! Thanks for sharing.
2023/04/04返信する翻訳する
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日25
2023年4月3日月曜日 15:55
⛅ 66 °F
海抜: 102 m
スペイン Vera 37.248688, -1.8693437°14’55” N 1°52’10” W
1
Vera: Bells
2023年4月3日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F
We thought we were being smart this morning by getting to the main plaza just before 10 o’clock so we would have a chance to look around and then do a short video as the church bells rang the hour. As you will see, Ned started the video a few seconds before 10, panning across the facade of the fortress church that helped defend Vera against pirate attacks, and then he waited … and waited … for the bells to ring. Just after he finally gave up and turned the video off, of course, the bells began to ring. We were impressed with the sturdiness of the church with its thick walls and defensive towers at all four corners. All the windows are high, the door is stout, and I’d love to see the key that fits in that lock.

Nearby we stumbled across a traveling exhibition about the mining history of this area, including one of the hoppers that carried ore along the aerial tramway to Garrucha - sort of like a chair on a ski lift. Mining profits paid for many of the fine houses near the main plaza here.

Our final stop was at the water museum that contains a restored lavadero where thirty women at a time could have their own basin for washing clothes. It’s the biggest lavadero we’ve seen in Andalucía. It was fed by a fountain that has carried water from a spring since Muslim times more than 1000 years ago.

Tomorrow, we are walking to Cuevas de Almanzora.もっと詳しく
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旅行者 The lavadero is so beautiful. It is interesting to see it so "museumed." The first one I ever saw was the one in SMA when I lived with you both there. And that one, although not often, was still used by locals. I suppose the hand washing was left behind long ago here as people bought washing machines for their homes. It is probably not used in SMA anymore either. Progress creates a more privatized way of doing things. I suppose I wouldn't miss having to go to the middle of town to do my laundry every week and hand wash it all but there is that sense of community that is lost as we mechanize so much of our lives. From shopping, to cooking, to laundry things have changed a lot in our lifetimes and that of our parents.
2023/04/03返信する翻訳する
Laurie ReynoldsTotally agree with Nicole that the lavadero is beautiful. I have seen a lot of lavaderos, but never one with those individualized cubicles. And to piggyback off what Nicole said, I remember walking on the Vdlp, in a town whose name I now forget. I went to the old lavadero so I could soak my aching feet, and an old woman came out to chat. She told me that she really missed the days when she would gather with her friends to wash clothes and gossip. Now they all had washing machines and never saw each other. Not to romanticize what must have been an awful daily task, but we have lost something in the process.
2023/04/03返信する翻訳する
旅行者The church reminds me a little of the fortress churches in the Basque area! Very beautiful. Were the bells in tune? Tom and I always have commented on how out of tune most Spanish bells are.
2023/04/04返信する翻訳する
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