We're walking from Almeria on the Ruta del Argar to the Parque Natural de Cazorla where we will pick up the GR 247. A map of our route is here: https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/edit?mid=1ERMUl_n9lASIh2n-8TJlr3A7HcK49SM&usp=sharing Read more
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  • Day 31

    Lorca: Easter Sunday

    April 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Today was another of our very lucky encounters. As we were walking to the Colegiata San Patricio to watch the Easter Sunday procession, we saw a group of people dressed in purple robes assembling. Just as we raised our cameras to get a photo, a man in the group waved vigorously at us. We were afraid we had done something wrong, but no, he was inviting us to come inside what turned out to be the headquarters of one of the six brotherhoods here in Lorca. He told us all about their group, showed us banners and robes with their intricate gold thread embroidery, some of which take 4 years to complete, and a sculpture of the apostles carved in 1700. Then as we were getting ready to leave, he presented Ned with a pin of the confraternity! What a kind, generous man. TRead more

  • Day 32

    Turre: Our poles are home!

    April 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    This morning we woke up to a very pleasant surprise. Our hiking poles that British Air failed to deliver have now completed their own month-long mini-vacation and are back on Shaw! Thanks to the Apple AirTag we put inside the mailing tube, we know they spent 5 days in Madrid and then 25 days back at SeaTac. No matter how many phone calls we made to British Air or how many lost baggage forms we filled out online, we were never able to convince a human being to return the poles to Shaw. So here’s a big thank you to Adam’s Shipping in Seattle who made the final connection! Our poles are now all set for their next adventure.

    More tomorrow on the turn our own adventures have taken. We are in the small village of Turre tonight, having completed the “Ruta del Argar desde Almería a Lorca.” Our apartment is right across from the Guardia Civil headquarters, so I bet this is a really safe area!
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  • Day 33

    Bérchules: in the mountains

    April 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Lorca marked the end of the Ruta del Argar from Almería to Lorca, and we are now moving to Parque Natural de las Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas in the province of Jaén, the largest protected area in Spain, with hundreds of trails for the rest of this year’s walking. On the way, we have made a stop at a mountain casita outside the village of Bérchules to see the other book about the history of the Alpujarra that I have been waiting three years to read. Brenda, the owner of our casita is borrowing it from a friend tomorrow morning. I’m excited! In the meantime, Ned had a private showing of Brenda’s Black Baron Dreamster - one of only four in the world.Read more

  • Day 34

    Bérchules: The book!

    April 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Three years ago, I saw some really intriguing information online: maps of the Alpujarra showing what the villages looked like during Muslim times a thousand years ago; drawings illustrating the techniques of traditional architecture, not just of houses, but also of threshing circles (eras), water-powered mills, and other structures; and photos of locations in the Alpujarra where you can still see these elements today. The source was given as a book, La Arquitectura Tradicional en La Alpujarra Alta, by Agustín Sánchez Hita. I searched all over the web for a copy I could buy but could not find one for sale. I emailed the author and the publisher, but neither had any copies left. I tried to borrow a copy from one of the libraries in Andalucía that had the book, but Spain discontinued their international interlibrary loans during Covid. Finally I wrote to the B & B owner who had posted the excerpts from the book on her blog. Brenda at La Paraje no longer had a copy, but thought she would be able to borrow one if I could make it to Bérchules. Indeed, Brenda went to a lot of trouble. There was no copy in her local library, so she went to the mayor to see if he had a copy. He didn’t, but a friend who had a copy lent it to Brenda this morning, and Brenda delivered it right to our casita. You can imagine what a happy day this was for me! I now have all the information I need for our next walking trip to the Alpujarra when I hope we will be able, with the author’s permission, to put this information on the GPX tracks we will make public on Wikiloc. Then every walker will be able to enjoy the knowledge Agustín Sánchez Hita has acquired over a lifetime - he’s now 84.
    (This book is related to the book we saw at the library in Almeria. Same author, but with a different organization: village by village, rather than by topic.)
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  • Day 35

    Bérchules: the village

    April 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    Ned walked to Bérchules today to get groceries and on the way had an interesting conversation with a man he met working in an orchard. José is a firefighter employed by the forestry agency in the area. In his spare time, he tends to his orchard where he has four kinds of apple trees and other fruit and nut trees. He worries about climate change - in this area they used to get up to three meters of snow in the winter; this year, there was none. We can certainly attest to the dry spring. In the 34 days we’ve been in Spain, there has not been a single day of rain.

    Berchules is a typical Alpujarra village. It is located at an altitude of about 1400 meters, with houses adapted to life on a hillside, arranged in terraces and facing the Mediterranean. The flat roofs are waterproofed with a layer of clay called launa and topped with conical chimneys. Tinaos (flat-roofed street coverings) provide storage space, sheltered entryways, and places for drying peppers.

    Wikiloc track today:
    www.wikiloc.com/walking-trails/el-paraje-berchu…
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  • Day 36

    Bérchules to Cazorla: Over the pass

    April 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    In all the length of the Parque Nacional Sierra Nevada, from the vicinity of Granada on the west to the vicinity of Almeria on the east, a distance of over 100 km, there is only one N-S road crossing of the range, the pass at Puerto de le Ragua at an altitude of 2000 meters. So we were pretty excited to be going over it today. We had gotten close to it on a trip with our mountain bikes in 2018, only to be turned back by snow. Today, it was warm and sunny. We saw the high mountain peaks, a huge solar farm, and the castle at La Calahorra (with a photo for the Mozarabe folks) before arriving at the mountain town of Cazorla.

    Before we left, Brenda had a marvelous surprise for us. She had asked the mayor if he had any extra copies of a wonderful new book about the entire Alpujarra. He did, and she presented me with one! So now I have plenty of reading to keep me busy until our next trip to Spain. Thank you, Brenda!
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  • Day 37

    Cazorla: Río Cerezuelo trail

    April 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    The Río Cerezuelo flows right through the middle of the town of Cazorla. In fact, when the Parroquia de Santa María was built during the Renaissance, the architect had to tunnel the river under the foundations of the church. All might have turned out well, but a devastating storm in 1694 caused a flood that could not be contained and construction was halted.

    Along the riverside trail above town there were willows and ducks and waterfalls galore. It’s Saturday, so lots of other walkers were out on the trail with us. Ned became the official photographer of couples wanting to commemorate their day. 😎

    Today’s Wikiloc track:
    www.wikiloc.com/walking-trails/cazorla-to-falls…
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  • Day 38

    Cazorla: up to the Ermita

    April 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Today’s hike had so much straight up and straight down that I had to revive myself with chocolate cookies before I had enough energy to eat lunch! You can’t really tell from the photos, but we climbed over 1000 feet in the first 1.5 miles (300 meters in 2.5 km)! Fantastic views and sunshine; castles and mountain goats; fig trees and black locust trees; and not a single slip or fall (thanks to all Ned’s help)!

    Today’s Wikiloc track:
    https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/cazorla-e…
    We followed part of the GR 7 long- distance hiking route which goes from Tarifa, Spain to the tip of Greece.
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  • Day 39

    Casa Berrea: Embalse de Aguascebas

    April 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    If you are looking for a heavenly place to stay in the mountains of Spain, Casa Rural Senda de la Berrea is the spot to pick! We are surrounded by rocky peaks, trails leave right from our door, and there is no one else for miles. Our walk straight out the door of the casa this afternoon took us to a magnificent waterfall, Cascada de Chorrogil, and then around the Embalse de Aguascebas which looks quite full. We could enjoy the falls and the turquoise water of the reservoir in complete peace because we didn’t see another person during the entire loop.

    Today’s Wikiloc track:
    https://www.wikiloc.com/walking-trails/aguaceba…
    If, like me, you think a loop around a reservoir sounds like a nice flat walk, think again…
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  • Day 40

    Casa Berrea: Navazalto Peak

    April 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    They say that if you are very quiet and still, you may see residents of the nearby colony of Griffon vultures when you reach the fire lookout at the top of Navazalto. We were not lucky enough to see them riding the thermals today, but the spectacular vistas made up for it. The view from the top is renowned as one of the most encompassing in Andalucía, and we spotted place after place that brought back memories.

    On the way down we met a very determined sheep who we thought at first was being friendly (see the video), but it turned out that she wanted us far away from her baby. No matter how wide a detour we made around them, as soon as we got back on the track, she chased us aggressively. Quite an unexpected adventure!

    Today’s Wikiloc track:
    https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/navazalto…
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