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    • Day 33

      Bérchules: in the mountains

      April 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

      Lorca marked the end of the Ruta del Argar from Almería to Lorca, and we are now moving to Parque Natural de las Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas in the province of Jaén, the largest protected area in Spain, with hundreds of trails for the rest of this year’s walking. On the way, we have made a stop at a mountain casita outside the village of Bérchules to see the other book about the history of the Alpujarra that I have been waiting three years to read. Brenda, the owner of our casita is borrowing it from a friend tomorrow morning. I’m excited! In the meantime, Ned had a private showing of Brenda’s Black Baron Dreamster - one of only four in the world.Read more

    • Day 34

      Bérchules: The book!

      April 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

      Three years ago, I saw some really intriguing information online: maps of the Alpujarra showing what the villages looked like during Muslim times a thousand years ago; drawings illustrating the techniques of traditional architecture, not just of houses, but also of threshing circles (eras), water-powered mills, and other structures; and photos of locations in the Alpujarra where you can still see these elements today. The source was given as a book, La Arquitectura Tradicional en La Alpujarra Alta, by Agustín Sánchez Hita. I searched all over the web for a copy I could buy but could not find one for sale. I emailed the author and the publisher, but neither had any copies left. I tried to borrow a copy from one of the libraries in Andalucía that had the book, but Spain discontinued their international interlibrary loans during Covid. Finally I wrote to the B & B owner who had posted the excerpts from the book on her blog. Brenda at La Paraje no longer had a copy, but thought she would be able to borrow one if I could make it to Bérchules. Indeed, Brenda went to a lot of trouble. There was no copy in her local library, so she went to the mayor to see if he had a copy. He didn’t, but a friend who had a copy lent it to Brenda this morning, and Brenda delivered it right to our casita. You can imagine what a happy day this was for me! I now have all the information I need for our next walking trip to the Alpujarra when I hope we will be able, with the author’s permission, to put this information on the GPX tracks we will make public on Wikiloc. Then every walker will be able to enjoy the knowledge Agustín Sánchez Hita has acquired over a lifetime - he’s now 84.
      (This book is related to the book we saw at the library in Almeria. Same author, but with a different organization: village by village, rather than by topic.)
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    • Day 35

      Bérchules: the village

      April 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

      Ned walked to Bérchules today to get groceries and on the way had an interesting conversation with a man he met working in an orchard. José is a firefighter employed by the forestry agency in the area. In his spare time, he tends to his orchard where he has four kinds of apple trees and other fruit and nut trees. He worries about climate change - in this area they used to get up to three meters of snow in the winter; this year, there was none. We can certainly attest to the dry spring. In the 34 days we’ve been in Spain, there has not been a single day of rain.

      Berchules is a typical Alpujarra village. It is located at an altitude of about 1400 meters, with houses adapted to life on a hillside, arranged in terraces and facing the Mediterranean. The flat roofs are waterproofed with a layer of clay called launa and topped with conical chimneys. Tinaos (flat-roofed street coverings) provide storage space, sheltered entryways, and places for drying peppers.

      Wikiloc track today:…
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    • Day 45

      Bérchules -> Laroles

      April 25 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Eine weitere, etwas frischere Nacht, begleitet meinen Schlaf. Doch wie es die weise Zeltplatzsuche des Vortags so will, erreichen die Sonnenstrahlen schon recht früh meinen Schlafplatz. So wirklich in die Gänge komme ich dennoch nicht, sodass schon beim Weggehen klar ist, dass ich nicht vor 19.00 Uhr mein Etappenziel erreichen werde. Für heute visiere ich einen Campingplatz in Laroles an, der fast direkt auf dem Weg liegt und mir hoffentlich ein wenig Komfort bieten wird.

      Dazwischen liegen einmal mehr abwechslungsreiche Wege und kleine Dörfer, an denen ich aber einfach nur durchmaschiere. Lediglich in Yegen suche ich mir ein kleines Café.

      Am Zielort Laroles angekommen, suche ich mir zunächst den Campingplatz, der auf den ersten Blick einen etwas verstaubten Eindruck erweckt. Ich täusche mich jedoch und der Platz entpuppt sich als nett und sauber. Leider fehlt es im Ort an einem geöffneten Restaurant und so statte ich der örtlichen Tankstelle einen Besuch ab. Hier finden sich jeder, der gerne zwei j is a zehn Feierabendbiere trinkt. Ich begnüge mich mit äußerst gesunden Snacks und genieße anschließend am Campingplatz mein Trauermahl 🍽️

      heute: 32,8 km, 1.179 hm
      gesamt: 609 km, 19.393 hm
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    • Day 9

      9. Tag Almería/ Sierra Nevada

      April 16, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

      Heute war das Ziel den Gipfel des Mulhacén zu erreichen..leider hatte ich meine Schneeschaufel vergessen,somit hab ich den Gipfel leider nicht erreicht...allerdings gibt es ja zum Glück noch mehr Berge in der Sierra Nevada..gigantische Landschaft ,gigantische verliebt in die Gegend 😍😍Read more

    • Day 43

      Wanderung in der Sierra Nevada

      October 28, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

      Zum Schluss meiner Zeit in Granada wollte ich unbedingt noch eine Wanderung im Nationalpark Sierra Nevada machen.
      Ich suchte mir einen passenden Bus raus und wanderte querfeldein. Währenddessen fand ich wunderschöne Orte.Read more

    • Day 18

      Pure mountains to Laroles

      April 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Probably the best bike ride of our trip: great views, no traffic and beautiful roads with many switchbacks.

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Bérchules, Berchules

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