- Reise anzeigen
- Zur Bucket List hinzufügenVon der Bucket List entfernen
- Teilen
- Tag 163
- Samstag, 5. Oktober 2019 um 16:00
- ☁️ 2 °C
- Höhe über NN: 3.911 m
TadschikistanMurgabskiy Rayon37°48’12” N 73°27’18” E
The Pamir2

- Reise anzeigen
- Zur Bucket List hinzufügenVon der Bucket List entfernen
- Teilen
- Tag 164
- Sonntag, 6. Oktober 2019 um 16:03
- ☁️ 8 °C
- Höhe über NN: 2.157 m
TadschikistanGint37°29’34” N 71°31’44” E
An Experience of a Special Kind

WARNING: contents of the following article may offend hygiene conscious readers. To protect the modesty of the participants, no pictures are provided.
Traveling in a simple van like mine in a cold environment and minimised water usage excludes regular showers or baths other than the ones with a flannel (Washlappen), a bowl of heated water and my doggybath. So reading about a public bath and the prospect about a shower and washing hair under running water is really exciting!
After needing to stop and park the vehicles on the steep, rutted hill because we fear we might ruin our vehicles in the pursuit of our hygienic endeavor we march to find the public bath. It is as well we parked the vans where we did, because the bath ended up to be on a different location as the map showed us. (Well, that's no news to us. In this part of the woods the mapping does not always reflect the actual location).
After asking several locals we finally find it- a quite decrepit hut , not indicating it's purpose to the foreign eye.
I enter the women's section to find myself in an ante room about 2.5x2.5m, a slim timber board on each side, to sit on whilst changing your clothes. About 8-10 children were in there of different ages and different stages of undress.
From this room an open doorway directly leads into the the huge bathtub about the same size as the ante room in which several women enjoy the process of cleaning themselves.
Firstly of I course have to find out where the queue starts or ends, so I point at the children and ask "Tamam?" which I know in Turkish means "ready", and I hope in Farsi it means the same. But my hope to make myself understood gets ruined right away as the girls start to giggle and say "Blablabla tamam". Until today I am non the wiser what I said.
Doesn't matter, I made them laugh, and am shown, they are ready to leave and it is my turn to undress and join the ladies in the soapy tub.
Here I am now, soaking away and trying to communicate in bits of English, some shabby Farsi and even shabbier Russian but we enjoy each other's company. Out of the wall sticks a pipe from which spouts fresh, hot water. The ladies fill tin after tin of water, pour it over me. We scrub each other's backs and shampoo each other's hair. Once done and rising out of the suddsy floods, they douse me with more tins of fresh hot water to rinse me clean.
This process might not satisfy our Westerners' idea of hygiene, but it definitely gave me a lot of simple, unexpecting and unexpected sisterly love and affection and a lot of fond memories.Weiterlesen
- Reise anzeigen
- Zur Bucket List hinzufügenVon der Bucket List entfernen
- Teilen
- Tag 165
- Montag, 7. Oktober 2019 um 09:00
- ⛅ 1 °C
- Höhe über NN: 2.755 m
TadschikistanVrang36°59’30” N 72°21’0” E
Happy B' day Elisabeth!!!

To have birthday in an environment like this, in Tajikistan, in view of Afghanistan, at the feet of the mighty Hindukush! You've got to be dreaming!!!
This was totally enough to make my b'day a special day.
But then, to top it all up, we were invited for tea in the home of aTajik family. Thanks to Lena's translations we were even able to communicate. . Finally you can ask all these things about their life, you are curious to know! This really beats the wordless smiles over cups of tea.
AND, as if this wasn't enough, when returning to our vans Lena and Christoph presented me with a cake they baked this morning and a picture of Rex Lena has painted. How sweat is this??? Thanks so much you two!!!Weiterlesen
- Reise anzeigen
- Zur Bucket List hinzufügenVon der Bucket List entfernen
- Teilen
- Tag 171
- Sonntag, 13. Oktober 2019 um 00:00
- 🌙 3 °C
- Höhe über NN: 2.115 m
TadschikistanKhorog Airport37°31’5” N 71°30’36” E
Village life 1

Impressions and experiences when traveling through Tajikistan
- Reise anzeigen
- Zur Bucket List hinzufügenVon der Bucket List entfernen
- Teilen
- Tag 171
- Sonntag, 13. Oktober 2019 um 07:00
- ☀️ 2 °C
- Höhe über NN: 2.161 m
TadschikistanKhorog Airport37°30’53” N 71°30’40” E
Dog psychology

I wasn’t really aware to what extent peoples from different countries react differently to dogs.
Russia: People with dogs themselves quickly pick up their little dogs, no way that they can sniff another dog. Generally people are scared of dogs. When they see one coming into their view, even though the dog is not the slightest interested in them, they fall into a karate pose, one arm up, one leg thrown towards the dog, and shout, what, I have forgotten by now. The dog of cause feels threatened and now starts to bark and if on leash or not to run towards the attacker. Self-fulfilling prophecy.
Mongolia: They are even more scared. The initial reaction is a different one though, with the same effect: they pick up a stone and walk two steps towards the dog with raised arm, prepared to through the stone. Mongolian dogs usually run away, as they all have felt stones, mine however doesn’t.
If the dog is locked inside the car, they might make a big bow around the vehicle. I was once sitting in my van and observing a man, going past the car, Rex barking at him. He runs away, hiding behind a tree. Once he realises, the dog really can’t do anything, he tantalises the dog: runs towards the car, knocks onto the window and goes into cover behind the tree again. After the third time I showed myself, and he stopped this game.
Children love to walk as close to the dog as the leash allows sufficient distance and make loud Wow, wow noises, which of course annoys the dog. The parents find that really cute and funny. Once, after that went on for quite a while, I went down to all fours and barked at the child, which started to cry. I felt really bad after that.
Kazakhstan: similar to Russia, karate stance, but not as phobic. Sometimes you can see dogs accompanying the Sheppards, which might help with the acceptance of the animal.
And then you cross the Tajik border and everybody is really friendly with dogs. You see them accompany the children, the women walk to fetch water accompanied by their dogs, the sheppards have dogs, dogs sleeping on the streets and suddenly my dog is much more relaxed, nobody is scared of him, nobody threatens him, he is getting treats and pets.
I really wonder what expects us in Uzbekistan and Iran. We’ll see.Weiterlesen
- Reise anzeigen
- Zur Bucket List hinzufügenVon der Bucket List entfernen
- Teilen
- Tag 185
- Sonntag, 27. Oktober 2019 um 18:00
- ☁️ 2 °C
- Höhe über NN: 2.196 m
TadschikistanKŭli Iskandarkŭl39°3’52” N 68°21’31” E
Quiet days on the lake

Whilst waiting for my Car parts I decided to drive to Iskander-Kul, a lake high in the Fan mountains. To get there from Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan, we had to drive up a pass which is particularly interesting as you have to travel through some really mean tunnels, the longest being 8km. I am not easily intimidated but when leaving the bright sunlight and driving into this pitchblack tunnel, no or hardly any lights, no white markings, drains along the wall, no ventilation, therefore very smokey and the environment swallowing any light, that is quite scary. It is noted on the map as "dangerous tunnel", which may give you the gist. It was definitely worth the while driving this road.
And then through quite spectacular mountain scenery on a dirt track eventually you reach the opal blue mountain lake. Stunning colour!!!
Here I am, nobody else on this lake at the end of the world, apart from myself and my co-travellers, who arrived a day later, and you assume nothing is going to happen apart from some hikes.
But low and behold one afternoon there was a fashion shoot, the next evening we were invited to a BBQ à la Tajik, (oh, never again vodka,) and one morning we were woken by a huge herd of Yak being driven past our vans making their grunting yak noises.
Unfortunately I had to get back to Dushanbe sorting out my car business.
PS: captions ruins every picture, particularly that photoshoot one which has a fairy-tale quality to it. Therefore the caption here: it was a very cold day, and the poor girl had to pose in sleeveless dresses. A hard job...Weiterlesen
- Reise anzeigen
- Zur Bucket List hinzufügenVon der Bucket List entfernen
- Teilen
- Tag 190
- Freitag, 1. November 2019 um 10:00
- ☁️ 12 °C
- Höhe über NN: 824 m
TadschikistanIspechak Du38°34’46” N 68°43’59” E
Garage life

My Car is up for repair in Dushanbe. Second garage. In the first they "ordered" the part, due to arrive in 10 days, just to be told after 7 days, it's not available.
Am now at another garage. They apparently habe the part at the end of next week. Appointment at 10am, it's now 1055am. Tajik time! 10 probably means 11! So plenty of time to observe.
Lots of garages are located here on this plot, and a lot of activity going on, however not of that kind you'd expect in a workshop, hammering, sound of screws drivers, clonking of tools.... No, it's lots of men coming and going, lots of discussions over cups of tea, lots of phone calls being done, then the men that went are coming back, just to disappear again. And all the cars are standing in their booths, unattended. I really wonder how long this all will take today. And if I really get the parts in time before my visa runs out.
It's a miserable, rainy day, so I'll have a lot of fun walking the city with my country dog.
But Overlanding can't only be fun, some hardships will increase the joy once everything runs smoothly.Weiterlesen
- Reise anzeigen
- Zur Bucket List hinzufügenVon der Bucket List entfernen
- Teilen
- Tag 193
- Montag, 4. November 2019 um 10:00
- 🌧 8 °C
- Höhe über NN: 862 m
TadschikistanSarikishty38°28’6” N 68°41’36” E
Rainy days

This are these kind of days you don't even want to think about when planning a trip in a small van with an adventurous dog. Rain is pouring, outside nothing but mud, but nature still calls.
When back to the van, you are soaked, the clothes are dripping, the boots are muddy, the dog is filthy...
And this is just the beginning. The winter is approaching fast! We were so lucky until now!Weiterlesen
- Reise anzeigen
- Zur Bucket List hinzufügenVon der Bucket List entfernen
- Teilen
- Tag 195
- Mittwoch, 6. November 2019 um 07:00
- ☁️ 6 °C
- Höhe über NN: 807 m
TadschikistanMikrorayoni Yozdah38°33’55” N 68°45’21” E
Dushanbe

Dushanbe and Hisor Fortress
- Reise anzeigen
- Zur Bucket List hinzufügenVon der Bucket List entfernen
- Teilen
- Tag 197
- Freitag, 8. November 2019 um 19:00
- 🌙 1 °C
- Höhe über NN: 1.419 m
TadschikistanAyni39°24’18” N 68°31’52” E
On the Road again!

On the Road again
After 11 nights, yes interrupted by stays in the vicinity of the city, in Dushanbe, my car is finally repaired and I am on the move again. It was not easy to say good bye to my new friends at the hostel: many shared meals, long conversations, life stories, exploring different cultures; it were very rich mornings and evenings, and extremely boring days waiting hours on end for Lola to be repaired.
But now out is time to move on.
Driving out of town I pass several cars with stuff piled up on their roofs, past a concrete factory where on top of the chimney sits a big hood of concrete dust and then, as of to make good to the community, each segment of the km long fence surrounding the perimeter of the factory painted with a different picture.Weiterlesen
- Reise anzeigen
- Zur Bucket List hinzufügenVon der Bucket List entfernen
- Teilen
- Tag 201
- Dienstag, 12. November 2019 um 08:57
- ☀️ 5 °C
- Höhe über NN: 381 m
TadschikistanLohutí40°14’43” N 70°8’18” E
A day in Khujand

Staying at a large family, consisting as so many here, out of grand parents, daughters and/or daughters in law, whose husbands are working in Russia and of course their children plus children left with their grandparents whilst both parents are living in Russia. Here I stumbled across an intriguing piece of furniture: a narrow cradle with a hole in the middle. I found out that at least small babies don't wear any nappies, and that hole solves the soiling problem. For boys there is a pipe-like contraption that gets attached to their little penis, unfortunately they did not have the equivalent for girls in the house, and everything gets diverted into a container attached to the bed. To keep the baby in situ they get tied down with silky straps.
Well, saves a lot of nappies and washing.Weiterlesen
- Reise anzeigen
- Zur Bucket List hinzufügenVon der Bucket List entfernen
- Teilen
- Tag 201
- Dienstag, 12. November 2019
- ☀️ 13 °C
- Höhe über NN: 388 m
TadschikistanPatar40°21’53” N 70°27’17” E
A warm Welcome to Uzbekistan

First day in a new country is always quite busy, you need to sort out car insurance, SIM card, perhaps money if you were not able to do this in the previous country, as was the case this time. I did not find a bank in Tajikistan that would hold any Uzbek Som as the currency has been deregulated. In addition to that I needed to refill my gas bottle. I just had to exchange my Mongolian bottle in Dushanbe as the regulator was leaking. And for whatever reason it was already empty. Strange!!! And scary.
Whatever. In the first larger town I entered in Uzbekistan I saw a shop sign saying "Kredit ...", so thinking it was a bank I stopped, only to realize, this is no bank but a shop you can buy things on credit. Not what I wanted. So I ask the man standing next to me, where was the next Bank. Oh, I have taxi here, I drive you there. Cheeky bugger I think, thanks, but no thanks. The next person I ask shows me the direction. Off I walk and I walk. .. this cannot be right, so I ask a lady coming my way. Yes you come with me she signs at me, so I turn around and walk with her in the direction I just came from. Just where I have parked my car she makes an attempt to gently shove me in a group taxi. This are teeny little vans, about half the size of mine, in Australia they would seat 6 max, here you get in 8, with some goodwill 10 people and a carpet for good measure. I mean what are Windows there for, if not to open them and stick the carpet out sideways. I put up some resistance, don't I have a single Som to my name, and the driver wants some money for sure. So a big debate ensues. There comes a man to my rescue who speaks English, and to him I am able to explain my predicament, just arrived in U, have no uzbek money, need bank to change, taxi is to bring me there but needs to be paid for. Can't finish telling him my car is just parked over here, please tell me where bank is, I can drive myself. He briefly talks to the driver, the driver nods, they push me into the taxi. But... "No money" I say, "Taxi free" he indicates and off we go. And go and go. How am I going to find my Lola and Rex again, quickly I set a pin on Google earth, and go and go. Finally the taxi stops, "this bank", I say many "Rahmats", thank yous, everyone laughs gently, hands on my shoulder oh, she speaks Uzbek, I laugh back and off I go into the bank. Long cue at the counter, but I am insistently pushed to the front. No waiting for this foreign lady. I am sent to another counter, where again I have the privilege of jumping the cue and 5 mins later I have money in my pocket. Feels better right away.
But now, how do I get back??? Well, when in Rome, do as the Romans do. I put myself at the roadside and stick out my thumb to the first group-taxi that comes my way, it promptly stops. I jump in to the excitement of everyone already in there, and off we go. Loud music, a lot of chattering and at a speed faster than to my liking but did I enjoy this little trip! Should do it more often.
Next stop SIM card. Nothing remarkable happening here.
Now back to the car and looking to get my gas bottle refilled.
Most cars in Uzbekistan are driving on gas to the extent, that petrol and particularly diesel is really hard to come by. In all the other countries I was able to get my gas bottle refilled at fuel stations that as well had gas for cars. So I thought it would be as easy as driving up to one gas refuelling stations, but no such luck. It's Methane not Propane they drive on. So where do I find Propane? No one really knows, just some approximate direction on the map. So off I the drive trying to find propane. One thing here is driving and looking for anything when cars are coming at you left, right and center in the oriental fashion, the other thing is deciphering the Cyrillic writing; but eventually I see a gas bottle sign which I follow. But unfortunately this is a workshop where they retrofit cars for gas use. I tell them what I want, but, no, they cannot help me. So a lot of palaver again, people running here and there, I am told to wait, which I do, being of obedient nature. Eventually a man comes, asks for my bottle, tells me to follow him, opening the passenger door of his car, suggesting I enter and off we go... driving through the whole town, 15 mins at least it seems and voilá, here we are at the propane refilling place.
This was my first day in Uzbekistan. Is there any better way for a country to introduce itself to me? This boundless preparedness to help in these Central Asian Countries is so heart warming. I know I am repeating myself, but these experiences will have a lasting impact on my life and attitude to people needing help.
Managed to get some sightseeing done as well that day. First impressions of the glorious architecture of the Uzbek cities along the silk road.
When visiting the Jami Mosque Museum in Kokand instead of the expected serenity I was greeted by a pop concert, featuring several Uzbek singers. What most impressed me was how these ladies in their long dresses and head scarves got up and stared dancing and enjoying themselves. Unfortunately I could not capture this moment, too far away.Weiterlesen
- Reise anzeigen
- Zur Bucket List hinzufügenVon der Bucket List entfernen
- Teilen
- Tag 207
- Montag, 18. November 2019 um 16:00
- ☀️ 10 °C
- Höhe über NN: 632 m
UsbekistanTelav40°53’21” N 69°47’35” E
That's the reason Why!

For a long time I’ve been planning this trip, preparing as much as I could, figuring out the route, the visa and so on. And finally, you are there and commence to live the dream.
And for me a dream it is fulfilling a desire I had for many years. However sometimes some other feelings make themselves heard as well, pops up and ask, “why am I doing this? “
After travelling a whole day, and am totally exhausted and realise I only made 80km and the road conditions will not change for the next 300km…
In every country you need new currency and to watch out you aren’t getting cheated, where to refuel the vehicle, how to pay, before or after, a new SIM card, that often requires settings to be changed and the list goes on and on.
Or the really big things, like making myself understood in a language I don’t understand. Google translate? That can be very tricky, often translating utter goobledigook and might get you into trouble.
So many new impressions that need to be digested, so many different customs adapted to, so many cultural differences understood and bridged. I just need a break. But then I cannot find a spot to rest for a few days. Or you get chased away by military or police, need to get out of the country due to visa limitations.
When I travel by myself I might not be really talking to somebody for days, only smiling myself through conversations, so I sometimes dread being addressed by another local.
When my car is in the workshop AGAIN and I have to trott around the industrial estate with Rex for hours on end.
And probably harder than this travel weariness: sometimes you really miss your friends and family. Shouldn’t bother me that much, I’ve lived far away for the last decades. Still…
But then there are those many moments, when the view around is of stunning beauty, the village life so picturesque, I drive through the villages and the people wave at me, I have another “conversation” with some woman at the waterpump, at the shop, the street crossing…
When people realise I am travelling by myself the women putting their hands to their hearts with a big smile on their faces, old men giving me the thumbs up.
When again I drive through one of those far away villages, the streets teaming with men with long beards, colourful skullcaps and long robes, women dressed in their long patterned, glittery dresses and skilfully arranged headscarves, finding their way through cows and calves, sheep and goats and donkeys carrying their load or pulling a cart. It reminds me of something, causing me to suffer from a deja vu until Co-traveller Christoph solves my puzzle: it is like a "Krippenspiel", a Nativity Scene. That's it!!!
When against any doubt I manage the Dushanbe rush hour traffic. I have since realised there is no such thing as traffic rules, there is only everyone for themselves and god against everybody else and, Insh 'allah, he guides me home unscathed.
When the girl finally understands the difference between “was” and “were”.
When I am invited to a school to talk to the children about myself, my journey and Australia and am perhaps able to inspire one of them to achieve what is important to them.
When I meet co-travellers that leave a deep impression and give me the feeling of home.
When again I have a meal in the circle of a local family.
When this man comes to me and presents me with a croissant. Just so.
When during the prayer after the meal my hands unintentionally fold themselves in the Christian manner and everybody bursts out laughing.
When I can glimpse little snippets of the daily lives and customs of those people I get to know and talk to.
When again and again and yet again, these total strangers, whose language I don’t speak, whose country I hardly knew existed a few years back, who went and are still going through so much hardship, show so much generosity, hospitality, give their time in the attempt to help, offer a bed and a meal – this is touching beyond words.
These are the moments that make me ashamed of our western way of treating strangers. But these are as well the moments that make my heart hurt from happiness, these are the moments that never will be forgotten. But most of all these are the moments where you say aloud, THIS IS WHY I AM DOING THIS!Weiterlesen

ReisenderElisabeth - I have always thought you amazing and inspirational but this is a whole new level of respect. Well done you for following your dreams. I enjoy reading your blog and seeing your photos and often wonder how you do it and how you are doing. Take care and I am sure there are a lot of thoughts from many people with you. Lots of love - Michelle xx
- Reise anzeigen
- Zur Bucket List hinzufügenVon der Bucket List entfernen
- Teilen
- Tag 211
- Freitag, 22. November 2019 um 08:00
- ❄️ -1 °C
- Höhe über NN: 441 m
UsbekistanAktepa41°17’36” N 69°15’42” E
Lola friert!

- Reise anzeigen
- Zur Bucket List hinzufügenVon der Bucket List entfernen
- Teilen
- Tag 212
- Samstag, 23. November 2019
- ☁️ 3 °C
- Höhe über NN: 442 m
UsbekistanAktepa41°17’38” N 69°15’42” E
Beacon of Hope

No rain or snow today, so it was time to venture out and visit the main sights of the city. Normally I take the car, so Rexby does not need to plot along through masses of people and noisy traffic, but today I didn't feel like driving through the city again so I decided to go by taxi; cheaper than driving and stress free. The owner of the shop I just visited kindly offered to hail down a car (that's What one does here, this are private cars that take you for some fee), but after 4 failed attempts we gave up. Dog? No way! Perhaps if I had a sheep??? Yandex, the Russian version of uber made it possible at the end.
First we went to the Chorsu Bazaar, not inside, too crowded for the dog, just around, still causing quite a stir with Rexelby, coming past some more of those cradles and some bread stamps. Now finally I know how they get those pretty patterns onto their bread. After some bit to eat, which for the first time in months I was able to eat whilst being seated, with dog!!! we made our way to the Kast Imom, a big religious complex. Beautiful mosque flanked by 2 x 54m high minaretts. Time to make come pictures, but. ... battery is flat. Doesn't matter, got my charged powerpack in my bag. When I pull it out, I realise, the charging cable is not there. Hm, ah well, no pics then. And then slowly it dawns on me: no phone, no map, no address of the hotel, no yandex = no home. Bugger!!! What now? Need cable. Anyone of those IT'd up twens around? No, none to be seen, just oldies like me, that might have a phone if you are lucky! Next option Phone or electronic shop. Off we go. Normally you can find them anywhere, but of course not when you need one. We need another idea. Somebody else's phone to find the address of the hostel. After some attempts I get lucky, we find the address of the hostel. I have no pen or paper to write it down with and my rescuer has neither. So we ask some passerbys, none of them has a pen only the suggestion to write it into my phone. Yeah, thanks! During our quest to find a pen we come past a toilet block ( people travelling in Islamic countries take note: once in need, you will always find a toilet in the mosque complex). There will for sure be somebody with a pen, he says. What makes you think that, but I don't intercept. So here he disappears just to return some time later, triumphantly swinging the core of a toilet role. Written on it is the address of the hostel once in Latin and once in Cyrillic lettering.
I am full of gratitude, don't want to keep him any longer has he spent enough time with me. I am one step closer but far from being home yet. So I set off with my Beacon of hope in form of the roll in my hand to find somebody who can find a taxi for me willing to take home me and my dog.
The first young man I ask cannot find the address, hmm... So I finally find an American lady, working in Tashkent, who organizes my transport home.
Here I am thinking I was really well prepared for my day of excursion and then my explorer spirit gets knocked down by a typical modern day dilemma. We so fully rely on our mobile phones to do so many tasks for us. Particularly on this trip: it gives me information where to find a hostel, a petrol station, how to find my way through any city on the world, it more or less usefully translates into the strangest of languages, how many Som do I get for my Oz dollar, I can call friends and family anywhere in the world, do my banking and the list goes on. I ran into some difficult situations during my journey, but none has thrown me in a state of panic as I was in today, lost in a completely foreign city in a completely foreign land, not knowing where I was and where to go. But there is always a beacon of hope. It may even come in the shape of the core of a toilet roll.Weiterlesen
- Reise anzeigen
- Zur Bucket List hinzufügenVon der Bucket List entfernen
- Teilen
- Tag 216
- Mittwoch, 27. November 2019 um 19:00
- ⛅ -1 °C
- Höhe über NN: 722 m
UsbekistanSamarkand39°39’23” N 66°58’45” E
Samarkand, du Schöne!!

Oh Samarkand! No name incites more the flavours of oriental fairy tales, the scent of spices, the rustling of silk and the glimmer of treasures in me than SAMARKAND.
And what a pleasant surprise this city was from the moment I drove through the gate! Wide boulevards constructed during the UDSSR aera but without that Soviet union "flair". Clean, everywhere those broom ladies fighting the dropping autumn leaves, and, I can hardly believe it, the drivers aren't by far as as pushy as in Dushanbe.
But then of course there are the cultural highlights. The splendour of the Registan, the Bibi Khanym comlex and many mosques and mausoleums more...... I was totally mesmerized. As you do or might not know I have this middle eastern thing going, so this was right up my alley.
As it was my luck, on Wednesdays they have a huge light show at the Registan, and I just happened to drop by on my evening walk with Rex. It was spoken in Chinese, so I can only assume a Chinese tour group ordered it as we others had to watch from further away but for free.
Today I had to say good bye to SAMARKAND, but before leaving I had to get a health certificate for Rex to enter those even more bureaucratic states of Turkmenistan and Iran.
A little side note: I was there already yesterday but found the opening hours to be from 8-11. So when I left I wanted to turn in that little alley. Alongside every road there is a ditch and I am quite panicky about those. And when doing my three point turn, pointing my noise towards the MIDDLE of the road, suddenly kabbummmm, I am in this ditch with my left front wheel. Right away there are two men and after putting in my 4WD they are pushing me out of trouble again. They told me they do this all the time because this ditch has broken in and now runs into the middle of the road. (Nobody thought of getting this repaired???) Piuhhh!!! By now I have sunk intro 2 ditches and broken through one canal lid.
So I went to the veterinary services with Rex to get that certificate that he is healthy and all vaccinations are current.
Thinking they will check the dog I take him with me. When entering it doesn't look anything like a vet practice but more like an office. Two elderly men sitting on desks and a woman asks me for my concern. I tell her what I need. Nobody speaks English so google comes in handy. Long conversations ensue. Where do I come from, where do I go to, where did I live on Samarkand, when did I go where ... has Google translated googledigook again? What had this got to do with the health of my dog? In the meantime I am told my dog cannot be in the office. I thought you need to check his health?? No, only stamp. I mean this is fine buy me, but I need a certificate. Yes, wait for specialist
So Rex and I are moved into a room that looked like a classroom and the not English speaking lady keeping me company. How exciting! And we are waiting and waiting. 1 1/2 hours later I am told I need to go to another town closer to the border, that's where I get my stamp. Really??? You needed that long to tell me that? But I have to swallow my frustration, he doesn't understand a word I am saying anyway.
This inefficiency in these countries can be extremely frustrating. They have rules eg for us travellers, that nobody knows what to do with. In Tajikistan for instance you get a 45 day visa, your car however only 15 days. So you need to go and get this permit for the car extended, but not at 14 days and if it is later than 15 days you might get a fine. So you go to that office on the 15th day and they haven't got a clue what to do. Or are they waiting for some bakshish? Who knows.Weiterlesen
- Reise anzeigen
- Zur Bucket List hinzufügenVon der Bucket List entfernen
- Teilen
- Tag 220
- Sonntag, 1. Dezember 2019 um 19:00
- ☀️ 12 °C
- Höhe über NN: 236 m
UsbekistanBukhara39°46’32” N 64°24’44” E
Mirror, mirror on the Wall

The verdict is still out, as tomorrow I will arrive in another one of central Asias treasure boxes, Khiva.
The sights of Bukhara were again overwhelming. Lots of mosques, Madrassas, carvanserais. Bukhara as well as Samarkand were quite comfortably visited with the dog, quiet streets, pedestrian only areas and parks and hardly any tourists around filling the streets. Being here in the off- season is definitely an advantage.
We first admired the outside of the buildings together, there are not as many cultured dogs around, and then I looked at the inside without the Rexelby.
When arriving I meet again friends that already were here for a few days; staying on the car park in front of the Ark I got to know Paula and Finn. We declared the carpark our home: Paula cut my hair whilst Fin attempted to fix my reversing camera and in the evening we had some wines and dinner when some other Co travelers arrived who are on the same circuit as I am. It's the 3rd time we bump into each other. It is so wonderful to meet these people again and again, it makes you feel a bit at home on the road.Weiterlesen
- Reise anzeigen
- Zur Bucket List hinzufügenVon der Bucket List entfernen
- Teilen
- Tag 224
- Donnerstag, 5. Dezember 2019 um 21:00
- ☁️ 2 °C
- Höhe über NN: 92 m
UsbekistanKhiva41°22’43” N 60°21’24” E
Just imagine!

Just Imagine: you’ve been traveling with a caravan for weeks now through the seemingly endless desert. You are exhausted, the heat is beating down on you, the water in the sheep bladders is getting low and what is left has lost its freshness. You long for a bath and a restful sleep in a comfortable bed.
The camels, horses and donkeys are feeling the heat as well, not to mention your slaves, who are not used to those harsh desert conditions. You will need to feed them up nicely once arrived in Khiva. In the condition they are in at the moment you will not achieve a decent price for them on the slave market.
As you trott along, you suddenly see some city walls arise out of the sand. Not another Fata Morgana! Those things have been stirring up everyone’s hope for the last few days, just to leave you without promise once they disappear into nothingness.
But no! As you get closer the sturdy walls manifest themselves, rising out of the sand of the surrounding area as you approach it, the anticipation driving you on! You are about to arrive in Khiva!
And what a city this is! Mosques, Madrasas, the most unusual of Minarets, particularly the fat, turquoise tiled Kalta Minor minaret! And glory of all for the tired travellers, the caravanserais where you can rest for a few days, and rub your hands in anticipation of the riches you will pocket for your strong Russian slaves.Weiterlesen
- Reise anzeigen
- Zur Bucket List hinzufügenVon der Bucket List entfernen
- Teilen
- Tag 229
- Dienstag, 10. Dezember 2019 um 09:00
- ☁️ 2 °C
- Höhe über NN: 82 m
UsbekistanQumbizovuljap42°23’39” N 59°22’45” E
Dornröschen

What I thought was last night I fell asleep in front of this fortress. It was quite well intact. This morning I wake up extremely well rested, look out my window and.... my, I must have slept 100 years. The fortress is all crumbled!!! Oh! But wait!! Where is he??? "Prince! Prince!!! PRIIINCE!"
PS: this area is called Elliq-Qala "Fifty Fortresses" of which they have unearthed around 20, some of up to 2000 years old. Who knows, perhaps I have even slept longer. But anyhow, the prince is long gone. ..Weiterlesen
- Reise anzeigen
- Zur Bucket List hinzufügenVon der Bucket List entfernen
- Teilen
- Tag 230
- Mittwoch, 11. Dezember 2019 um 21:00
- ☁️ 6 °C
- Höhe über NN: 111 m
TurkmenistanThe Door to Hell40°15’7” N 58°26’17” E
Five short days in Turkmenistan

For me the last of the Stan countries to travel through is Turkmenistan. As an overlander you can only apply for a transit visa, which will only be issued for a period max five days. If you are lucky that is, as not everybody is issued one at all.
The border crossing was quite painful this time, long waiting periods between different stations of the process, manually writing all the data, such as car details, passport details into I don't know how many books, getting visa, dog certificates, getting the GPS tracker, so they know you are sticking to the prescribed route ... and waiting and waiting. Then you think you are nearly there, only car inspection left... well think again.... they looked into every nook and cranny, looking for I dont know what and finding some Tramedol on my pharmacy box. Didnt know, you are not allowed to have this. And once they were done, I had to put everything back. All in all this border crossing took 3.5 hrs. Ah well, I have heard of worse.
To travel south towards Ashgabat, the capital of Turkmenistan and the Iranian border you have to traverse the Karakum Desert. FINALLY I saw my first wild camel herds. They were drinking the rain water collecting in the pot-holed road.
Christoph and I definitely had to stop and visit the Darvaza gas crater as well aptly named "Door to Hell". This crater is the result of Soviet-era gas exploration and has, for whatever reason been set alight and is burning since the 70s.
At one point we had to drive through quite deep sand, knowing well that getting out of there the next day might be quite tricky particularly for Christoph's 2WD. Sometimes you have to take risks, we' ll worry about this tomorrow. And it was worth it, the crater was really spectacular, particularly at night.
Yeah, and the next day. .. I got through the sand on my second try, could back out after getting stuck, but Christoph was not that lucky. Our cars were too far apart for me to pull him out. A Shepard came to our aid, some digging, no luck. How about my maxxtraxx??? Did only get 3 of the 4 locks off, dirt blocked the 4th. That's not good enough, is it? Didn't we get past a drill station on the way out with some trucks parked up, so I drive through the sand again, back to the drill station, asking for help. They cannot take the truck as it supplies the drill with power but two men come with me to dig and push.
Whilst they are digging and pushing I get to work on my last lock and after a lot of water jetting in with a syringe from my medical kit and poking with a needle from my sewing kit (sometimes the male tools just don't cut it!) I free the lock and with it the maxxtraxx. I am sure this was the last push anyway but my traxx at least came into action and the car was free.
Our further journey was quite uneventful but very beautiful as the land changed more and more into a dune desert landscape with more herds of camels. These animals really fascinate me!
Next morning getting up and out for Rex's morning walk it was freezing cold and the desert wore a stunning coat out of ice crystals. I could have walked for hours but we had to get going and get to Ashgabat, as the next day is the last day on our visa.
Ashgabat, the white, artificial marble city, built for the president but not the people. Bombastic, very white, one of the cleanest cities I think I have ever seen, nearly only white cars driving on huge, wide, quite empty roads, ( the president apparently loves the color white). The traffic and the life on the streets quite in contrast to the busy central Asian car and pedestrian traffic. Here there are neither a lot off cars nor a lot of people in this new part of town. The ones of you who had read Momo by Michael Ende will know what I mean when I say this is what the city reminds me of. The only colourful accents at this bleakest time of the year are the women with their colourful head dresses and the schoolgirls, wearing either green or red long dresses and their little round caps. In addition they all wear their thick long hair in thick, long braids. Must be pretty in summer, when the dresses are not hidden by the winter coats.Weiterlesen
- Reise anzeigen
- Zur Bucket List hinzufügenVon der Bucket List entfernen
- Teilen
- Tag 239
- Freitag, 20. Dezember 2019 um 07:00
- ☀️ 1 °C
- Höhe über NN: 1.014 m
IranBāgh-e Āstān-e Qods36°16’44” N 59°34’27” E
First days in Iran

Another border crossing after 5 days in Turkmenistan!
You never know what to expect, but this time I more or less flew through the borders. All up 1hour 15mins. It helped to have a personal assistant on the Iranian side, who wandered with me from station to station, making sure everything is done promptly and serving me some tea when waiting for my Carnet to be completed.
When driving on a dirt path, looking for my first Iranian overnight spot, it got too slippery and muddy for my liking. As the path was very narrow I had to perform a 10-point turn. In the process I backed into I pile of dirt, bent my spare tyre attachment, so the spare wheel fell off could not be reattached. Ah well, another workshop stop the next day. No biggy, was done in 1/2 hour. This left me with enough time to reach Mashhad.
Mashhad is considered the holiest city in Iran, is it the burial place of the only of the 12 Imams being buried in Iran. So of course I had to visit the shrine, which nowadays is a huge complex with 9!!! court yards. Should you be interested, you can read up on this. So no need for me to elaborate. Being a non-Muslim I was provided with a flowery chador, oh how charming! and very nice guide. I was really impressed by the relaxed atmosphere in those court yards: people sitting and lying on the floors, that are covered in carpets, kids running around playing, a situation you cannot imagine in a Christian church. The guards were very diligent: each of them equipped with a feather duster of all things, pink or baby blue of color. A few times they had to run towards or after me, pointing those pink dusters at my bloomy chador from under which some wisps of unruly hair had escaped; I diligently tucked them back in.
After this sight seeing tour I just wanted to leave the city.
And now I was finally confronted with Iranian traffic. From my last visit to Iran I knew it can be chaotic to say the least! Three million inhabitants, and a huge percentage of those possessed by Iranian road rage. This is a phenomenon which I cannot explain. The Iranians are the most friendly, welcoming, hospitable of people. They give you their last piece of bread if you are their guest, but their little piece of road, your right of way... YOU WILL NOT GET THIS, Not even as a clearly identifiable foreigner. So. .. lets get me out of this city!
And, as to make up for this strenuous city experience, I found the most beautiful overnight spot, on Saffron fields, between little saffron huts and saffron watering channels. Never mind a police man waking me up at 5am, wanting to see my papers and husband, who, to his biggest amazement, I could not produce. The husband I mean. But instead he was confronted by a dog!!! But what was probably even more confusing and shaking up his social norms was this woman in the van only clad in a pyjama. Just as well that I had remembered to quickly throw over my shawl at the knock on my window. He did not speak any English, my Farsi leaves a big lot to be desired, so we giggled ourselves through the conversation. I still giggled when I went back to sleep.
On the way to Kerman, I happened to overtake Christoph again; we had separated in Turkmenistan, but as we don't seem to be able to travel by ourselves we did some sight seeing together: a beautiful Caravanserai and we nearly drove past an oasis like out of a fairy-tale book. I was nestled on top of a hill surrounded be citrus orchards and soon saffron fields again.Weiterlesen
- Reise anzeigen
- Zur Bucket List hinzufügenVon der Bucket List entfernen
- Teilen
- Tag 243
- Dienstag, 24. Dezember 2019 um 20:00
- 🌙 11 °C
- Höhe über NN: 284 m
IranBand-e Kahnūj30°49’33” N 57°48’3” E
Christmas

To be honest I was a bit worried about Chistmas. I feared I might miss family and friends. But then we were In the Kaluts, a part of the Lut Desert, with very bizarre rock formations, the weather was nice and warm, so Christmas feelings were not plaguing us. Christoph left after 2 days, I stayed on for one more day, relaxing.Weiterlesen
- Reise anzeigen
- Zur Bucket List hinzufügenVon der Bucket List entfernen
- Teilen
- Tag 244
- Mittwoch, 25. Dezember 2019
- ☀️ 12 °C
- Höhe über NN: 1.769 m
IranMeydān-e Shohadā30°17’39” N 57°5’15” E
Intermezzo in Kerman

We had some urgent business to complete in Kerman. Christoph had a big windscreen damage that needed to be taken care of, I needed to get money changed and transferred to my friend in Shiraz so he could order a new fridge for me to replace my old one that had taken its last breath. Once done I just needed to get my groceries restocked for our planned rest days in the Lut Desert.
Here I am driving along in a roundabout, the outermost lane as I am about to exit, when a car, from I don't know which lane he was coming from was just cutting in in front of me and rammed my bullbar. Happened before in Dushanbe, but that driver continued to drive on. This one in Kerman actually stopped to my biggest surprise. But had I thought he would apologise I was wrong. He now accused ME I had run into him and wanted to call the police! My anger soared. He again spoke no english, which I couldn't care less, I flooded him with words, gesticulated wildly, stared him down. Eventually he gave in. All I wanted was him to get the broken bullbar part welded back on. Not knowing the city nor the language finding the appropriate workshop can be a major problem. And at the end it was: as the bar is made out of aluminium, not everybody can weld it. But at the 4th attempt we got lucky. I would have been lost by myself, but on that day it turned out to be a great experience again. Apart from trying to follow the car of a frantic driver, who cannot decide what lane to take , does not have an indicator and pushes himself into gaps that don't exist I got to know a lot of nice people, visited one of the biggest building projects in town, got the traffic of a four lane highway stopped extra for me so I could cross the street where there was no crossing, got nearly rammed by a car who slipped through on the 5th lane, was provided with tea and cake, lunch, and more tea and cake, and rode in an elevator without walls or handrails. It was very entertaining, interesting and I learned a lot about the current economical situation in Iran.Weiterlesen
- Reise anzeigen
- Zur Bucket List hinzufügenVon der Bucket List entfernen
- Teilen
- Tag 246
- Freitag, 27. Dezember 2019 um 20:00
- 🌙 9 °C
- Höhe über NN: 1.208 m
IranKhvājeh Nez̧ām29°9’24” N 58°13’24” E
Bam

Next stop on my trip is the ancient city of Bam, which had been nearly completely distroyed by an earthquake 2003 which killed more than 26,000 people. The main attraction there is the citadel which is still in the process to being reconstructed, however parts of it can be already visited.
When presenting herself in public woman has to dress appropriately including of course at least a shawl if not a chador. I really don't know how these iranian woman manage, with these masses of cloth, shopping bags and children. I quite often get tangled up with shawl, key chain that I have around my neck to prevent then from getting lost, a dog leash somewhwere and strap of shoulder bag. This happened to me again today just in front of the citadelle. Here I am trying to untangle this mess, when an Iranian woman steps up to me, finds the end of my shawl and the beginning , artfully arranges it around my head and neck, gives me a kiss on my left cheek, then on my right, then on my left again, puts her hand to her heart, disappears with a Khoda-hafez and leaves me with a warm feeling and a big, happy smile on my face.Weiterlesen

ReisenderLiebe Elisabeth, da, wo Du jetzt gerade bist, wünsche ich Dir und Deinem Vierbeiner "Guten Rutsch" in ein weiteres unternehmungsreiches neues Jahr. Bleibt gesund und munter! Herzliche Grüße von Claudia

ReisenderGanz herzlichen Dank Claudia! Aud dass uns das neue Jahr ein Wiedersehen beschere! Auch ich wünsche dir alles Gute in 2020!!!
- Reise anzeigen
- Zur Bucket List hinzufügenVon der Bucket List entfernen
- Teilen
- Tag 248
- Sonntag, 29. Dezember 2019 um 14:00
- ☀️ 14 °C
- Höhe über NN: 1.606 m
IranMarvdasht29°52’39” N 52°47’47” E
Change of Career?

A while back Jutta asked me what I wanted to become when I was a girl. I had to think a while until I remembered. A Harems lady! That's what I wanted to be. No more cleaning a millepied worth of shoes on Saturday, no more raking up leaves in autumn, no more depitting of tonnes of plums to make jam. I imagined myself sitting on a pretty fountain in a picturesque oasis, a little bird chirping in the palms, riding on a racey horse through the desert, hunting with falcons.... that's what Harem's Ladies do isn't it?
Today I was able to add another facet to this dream: being spoiled in a turkish hammam. Or Iranian for that matter.
Right after arriving in Shiraz, Hojat my Shirazi friend and I drove to a neighboring town where his sister manages a Turkish Hamam.
There I was allocated a personal attendant, who led me into a steam room where I was steamed up, left to rest, scrubbed, doused with refreshing water, not too cold, not too warm, some more rest, scrubbed again, credenced some aromatic water, peeled, oiled, massaged, some more rest.... and once done, some nice lunch of Leyla made Kebabs. Hers are the best! Heaven!!! All those muscles tortured during the many months of driving, were gently persuaded to relax back into their designed position, my skin spoiled into babylike smoothness, and my thoughts lazily returned into the harems world of my childhood and came to the conclusion that somewhere at some point in my life I must have taken a wrong turn. Otherwise why have I turned out to be a Safety Advisor?!Weiterlesen

ReisenderHimmlisch, diese Hammams. Nur gibt es sie heute meist ohne Harem. Solltest Du jedoch nach dem monatelangen, kärglichen Leben im Camper anfällig für den monströsen Luxus der Emirate sein, dann erwartet Dich ja vielleicht dort das 1001 Nacht Deiner Träume. Auch Allahs Wege sind unergründlich. Liebe Grüsse Nellie

ReisenderHappy New Year, Elisabeth! Bist Du noch im Iran? Pass gut auf Dich auf! Die Stimmung scheint ja ganz schön aufgeheizt zu sein... LG und gute Weiterreise ☘️
Reisender
Incredible view
Reisender
Whichever corner you turned another incredible view presented it self