Beautiful Najran
20. marraskuuta 2020, Saudi-Arabia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Finally I am catching up again with my German co-travellers in Najran. Najran is a city 30km north of the Yemeni border. Sometimes you can hear the rocket thunder, but apparently, no rocket has hit for a very long time. That's good to know!!
As my friends had left I drove to the undeveloped outskirts of the park we were staying in as I thought I would go undetected by police. However not soon after I got there a police car stopped and he tried to send me away “as it was too dangerous, I could be hit by a rocket”. After a few discussions, he asked me if I was Muslim. No, it told him, and to make things easier, I was Christian. His response still puzzles me to this day: he said, that if this was the case, I could remain here in the park. I am still pondering if he meant, my Christian beliefs would protect me from the rockets, or if it not mattered if a Christian more or less crawled this earth… I will never know.
Visiting or trying to visit the castles, most of them were closed for renovation, and the archaeological excavation grounds of Najran.
Hamed, my Jazan friend and his brothers took me for a walk through the old city and to their farm with houses built in the traditional style and stables with horses and camels. Their father is the Sheikh of their tribe.
Saudi Arabia is a tribal society and each tribe has their own Sheikh. A Sheikh is not a position you inherit, like a prince, or king, but it’s a position of merit. A Sheikh has to have memorized the Koran, as the Koran outlines the laws and rules to be applied. There is no set remuneration for the advice, you pay what you can afford, or deem appropriate for the advice. When there are conflicts within a tribe, property disputes, marriage problems etc you can involve the Sheikh and he will try to find a solution.
This weekend, as on any other weekend the family gathers at his family’s property. At least 40 women and I don’t know how many children in the women’s area, and I am unsure how many men were in the men’s Majilis, the sitting room. Only family members. Many of the women attending spoke English very well, and the conversations gave me invaluable insight into the lives of Saudi women.
On my trip to Najran, my bodyguards had caught up with me again. Now they were informed of my prolonged stay at the Sheikhs house, and after they rejected the invitation into my host's home, they went to have dinner with their families. At around 11pm they sent a messenger to the female Majilis and requested to see me to make sure I hadn’t eloped. As adult male family members cannot simply march in for any purpose, children are being sent to deliver messages between the male and female areas. After me waiting outside for some time, in the cold, for my bodyguard to arrive Hamed suggested for the ease of purpose that I wait in the male Majilis for another call. This gave me the unexpected pleasure to enter the male sanctuary at this time of day, which is an honour usually not bestowed onto a woman not being a member of the family. But, as everyone was interested to hear my story and ask a myriad of questions, this was a good enough excuse to make an exception.Lue lisää
Police encounters
22. marraskuuta 2020, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C
Here I am driving along, admiring the landscape, watching out for inattentive drivers making selfies with me and Rex in the car whilst driving.
Suddenly I hear a police siren. I pulled over, not being aware of any traffic infringements I may have committed. I am getting all my papers ready and stay in the car, whilst waiting. Finally the officer arrives. I let down my window, paint the nicest smile onto my face and give him a friendly "As salamalaikum". He greets me back, then surprises me by adding a "Welcome to Saudi Arabia". I hadn't expected that when being pulled over by a siren. What then followed surprised me even more: he simply handed me a cup of coffee, wished me a safe journey and went his way.
At another occasion I was stopped by a traffic control. "Papers please!" Oh darn, now they got me with my right hand drive! My police Major of the Al Baha province had provided me with a written note. I never knew what was written on it, but trusting that it might help me in difficult situations, I stuck it onto the face of my passport. Now, when the police officer asked me for my papers, I handed him my passport with the Major's letter facing him. He had a short read, then handed me back to me and sent me off with a friendly good bye.Lue lisää
Rub Al Khali, the Empty Quarter
24. marraskuuta 2020, Saudi-Arabia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
From Najran, along the Yemeni border into the Rub Al Khali, the Empty Quarter, the largest sand desert in the world. It is encompassing most of the southern third of the Arabian Peninsula, reaching well into the UAE and Oman. Dunes reaching up to 250m in height. I am driving up and down the dunes on well-paved two-laned highways. Of course I don’t attempt to venture too far off the roads, only in between the dunes. There the sand is firm with no danger of sinking in and getting bogged in loose sand (again!!!). You can travel far on these in-between-the-dunes areas, which provide the most beautiful, remote and scenic camping spots. I now seriously regret the choice of car, wishing to have a full blown 4WD which does not mind digging the wheels into the sand. But, hey, Lola is doing well, for a van of her making.
Along the road, then in between the dunes, I find the Germans again. We are trying unsuccessfully to get into the Oroug Mani M’aradh Wildlife Sanctuary, where the near extinct Oryx has been reintroduced into the wild. Herds of Arabian Sand Gazelles and Ostriches are roaming again. We are not lucky, the only road in this area we find is too sandy for us to access. So, we give up and travel further up the road, where Steffen and Birgit know for another access point to be. Here we learn that you can only access the reservation after prior permission by the Saudi Department for the Environment. We are quite acquainted with Saudi customs by now, therefore we know, waiting a bit may bring results as well. We don’t have to wait for too long and a ranger comes along. After a short chat, we all scramble into his vehicle. And off we go into the wild. And what a ride that was! This guy really knew how to ride the dunes. After dropping a lot of air out of his tires we climbed up the highest dunes, raced along a steep tilted slope around the inside of a huge sand crater, (scary!!!) down the steep valleys, around the corner and up some more steep dunes. And even he got stuck! But as Saudis don’t get out of the car, unless absolutely necessary and don’t like digging, he just put the foot to the pedal, steered left right left right…. Until the car decided that’s enough and moved again. (I’ll have to tell Lola that trick). Yes, and we even spotted an Oryxes; over there, on the faraway sand dune, that white spot!!!Lue lisää
Rub Al Khali, The Empty Quarter
24. marraskuuta 2020, Saudi-Arabia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Unfortunately, I put a little damper onto this otherwise so amazing experience. We were allowed to camp in the reservation for the night. Before we went for the 4WD excursion I was asked to leave the dog in the car, which I did. The next morning, I took Rexby on the leash to take him for a walk. The ranger and his superior came racing their car towards me and gave me to understand that he had told me to keep the dog in the car, and I was not allowed to walk him, not even on the leash. I profusely apologized, saying I felt really sorry that I unintentionally had acted against his instructions after he was so nice to us and still had the impression, I was not able to fully appease him. So once I had packed up my car, I grabbed a bag of dates, as you are permanently gifted some you always have heaps of them in your car, went to see him to make up, but he just laughed, thanked me and all was forgiven.
And again, you Saudis are amazing!!!! Thanks so much for this unplanned adventure!Lue lisää
The Road to Riyadh
28. marraskuuta 2020, Saudi-Arabia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C
The trip from the Rub Al Khali to Riyad was pleasantly interrupted by several coffees, picknicks and invitations. So I met my little dog lover, who's mom took me home right away and with whom we stayed for a few nights. Here I got acquainted with the female fury upon their dependence on male support. Sarah lives alone with her children, where her husband is, I don't know and relies on her brother for transport. She wanted him to pick us up, to go out for a picknick, but he was apparently not prepared or able to. She was enraged, and was complaining about this system, that makes women so dependent on men, but those sometimes are not willing to support them, when needed. In the end he complied.
I had witnessed before women getting very upset and loud with men. When sitting in the park and they want to eat, they like to lift their hijabs above the head, but when men are around, they cannot freely expose their faces. I have heard a lot of screaming and shouting at men not known to them to gain land so they can freely eat.
On the other hand I have witnessed many times that I sit in the park with some women, talking. It is getting late, we are all getting hungry, so they call their men and ask them to bring us something to each. They always complied. They mostly only stayed long enough to say hello and drop off the food , just to disappear to come back hours later, when called to pick up their women.
On I went to meet our friend Ammash, again with whom we had this extraordinary dinner experience in Al Ain. He took me out besides other sights to his friends restaurant where I had to eat mini portions of the whole menu and critique it. I have to say, they had nice food there,
that night I found out that Ammash happens to be a prince. I hadn't know that until then. Now I know a Sheikh, a Prince, wrote to the Emir, and am best friends with the Police Chief.Lue lisää
My Riyadh Families
5. joulukuuta 2020, Saudi-Arabia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
Riyadh
Even when you travel everyday life doesn’t leave you alone. You have to do the tax, worry about health insurance and car registration, all that mundane stuff you wish you could leave behind. And another thing will eventually catch up with you: your teeth demand to be taken care of. There will be no better place than Riyadh to look into my hurting tooth. And low and behold, the diagnosis is I need a new crown, a new bridge and a few root canal treatments. Hurray! Thank goodness I have friends in this city who will take me up for a few days. You will remember the generous family, who last year, offered us stranded travelers their house in Al Baha, where I was able to stay for 2 months. Again, they gave me their helping hand.
So my journeys in the next few weeks, depended on the intervals between the treatments and always led me back to Riyadh. I met some very nice people on these trips with some of those I stayed as well in Riyadh. So the dental nuisance had some very comforting and loving side effects, thanks to Rasheed’s family, Margarita and Osama and Mahmet, and drastically changed my perception of Riyadh. It was not just a big City anymore, but turned into a place where friends welcomed me with open arms and made me feel loved.
Finally, on the 10th of January I could continue my journey untethered by dental commitments.Lue lisää
The Camel Festival
9. joulukuuta 2020, Saudi-Arabia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
One big event on the Saudi calendar is the Yearly Camel Festival It is held for two months not far north of Riyad. How lucky am I to be in the region at this point in time, so of course I have to go there and have a look. When approaching, driving through empty landscape, following the signs indicating "King Abdulaziz Camel Festival “, a broad road flattened into the sand turns off the highway. In the distance you can see the entrance arch and huge festival tents erected. Getting closer to the location I pass stalls of all descriptions: camel accessories, carpet makers, fruit and groceries, laundries... well, anything one needs for an extended stay.
My German friends had arrived here two days prior. To meet them I had to drive past the "business district" and follow the sand route lined by a huge tent city and camel enclosures, past camel herds on the road, lively gatherings. An incredibly exotic scenery opens up to me. Whenever I have to stop the car for a camel or what else, I am greeted by people, offered tea into the car, invited to their tents and inevitably photographed.
Steffen had contacted me prior to me getting there and asked me to come to a certain location, doing really secretive. So eventually in this chaos I find him with two of his larger girls, grinning from ear to ear. Finally, he told me the reason for his joy: yesterday he had participated at a camel wrestling competition: he had to enter a rink in which 3 one-year old camels were circling. The challenge was to grab one of the animals, who of course run away from you, and to wrestle it to the ground. And that he did: he succeeded to throw over a camel and as price, he had won the animal. That’s how the Boeger family became the proud owners of a camel.
Now he was confronted with another challenge: Steffen intended to lead their price to their truck, for the kids to play with or walk it. As the camel was not really willing he thought he would tie it onto my bumper and lead it to their camp. But apparently this you cannot do; as camels are serious herd animals, they will not follow some strange car without putting up a fight. So we had to find another solution to transport the animal to our camping spot on the festival grounds.
Talking to the locals is always a good idea, particularly in matters of camel. They quickly arranged with some truck driver to pick up the camel and transport it to the camel enclosure closest to our camp. To load it they unceremoniously tie up the camel, strap a belt around its midriff, lift it with a Hiab crane onto to back of a truck and deliver it to their owners. In the discussions with the locals we learn that the kids cannot play with the animal, and as taking the dromedary with them is impossible as well, they have to get rid of it ASAP. But the word spreads quickly, everybody knows of Steffen’s win as this was broadcast on National TV and soon enough the camel was sold for a (hopefully) good price. Steffen would have loved to glow a little longer with the glory of being a camel owner, but he saw reason.Lue lisää
The Camel Festival
10. joulukuuta 2020, Saudi-Arabia ⋅ 🌙 16 °C
The next day one of the Saudis took me to the camel beauty competition. I was provided with a VIP pass and guided into the VIP lounge, the only woman again in between all the men. After being served a sumptuous breakfast I watched the most beautiful camels of Saudi stroll past the window. But what constitutes a beautiful camel?
Signs of beauty are a big head, a big hump and a long lip. I am sure there were some more criteria, but those I forgot.
At one of the last year’s beauty competition one camel breeder thought he could trick the judges by enlarging his camels’ by injecting botox. But he was found out and all of his herd was disqualified from the competition.
After the camel competition we go on to the camel wrestling competition. I can judge with my own eyes the difficulty of Steffen's win. I am sitting opposite a large TV screen broadcasting the event, looking around I suddenly realise the camera zooming in, oh no, that's me, zooming in closer and closer, suddenly getting stuck on me. The men around me start whooping and cajoling, I smile into the camera, wave my hand... I mean, what does one do in a situation like this??!! I don't know what's happening, until my Saudi friend, as not to confuse him with others, his name is Mohammed, tells me, that I have just won the newest Apple Iphone. This came in quite handy, as my old phone is on the way out. Of course, this event has to be broadcast as well. By following the instructions given I express my gratitude for this win to the King and the Sheikh XY who has donated my IPhone and sponsored this event.
From now on, when we were walking through the village, we are all congratulated for our wins and invited for dinners and teas.
Ahh! This camel festival! Definitely one highlight of so many of my time in Saudi. So exotic, so exciting, so overwhelming... the atmosphere at the auctions, the smells, the sounds. Impressions of “Arabic Nights”! For hours I strolled across the festival, taking in these impressions. Drinking a cup of coffee or tea here and there, I felt like glimpsing into another world. Absolutely unforgettable.Lue lisää
Finding a Spot for the Night
20. joulukuuta 2020, Saudi-Arabia ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C
It was getting quite late, I urgently needed to find an overnight spot. Once it gets dark, it is near impossible to find something decent. I am turning off the road when my car drives through quite a deep ditch and the spare wheel falls off. Low and behold two guys come driving up the same path and immediately solve my spare wheel problem for me. Whilst we were chatting he opens his bonnet, pulls a bottle with what seems water to me and refills some of the contents in a smaller bottle which he hands me. As it turns out this was vodka that he had stowed away just in case. Somehow I did not have a good gut feeling with those two so I said my good byes and drove off. By now it was well and truly dark, so I drove down the next track I came past, parked on the side in the sand and called it a day.
The next morning I woke up from what I felt like trucks driving directly past me. I peek out the window and yes!!! I was parked directly at a sand mine and the trucks had to drive around me to get in and out.Lue lisää
My Second Christmas on the Road
24. joulukuuta 2020, Saudi-Arabia ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C
On my way up from Hail up North I came past Jubbah. This is a UNESCO World Heritage site featuring thousands of ancient petroglyphs and inscriptions dating back over 10,000 years. When pulling up the car park I see a German car parked there! How did this happen? Where do they come from?
I park directly beside them, knowing they will wait for my return and then I go explore the site.
Upon my return they just trundle in themselves and it turns out, this is a couple participating in the Dakar Ralley, he as the leader or outfitter of the German Team, and she as a driver. For organisational reasons this year the Ralley is split in two and so they shipped their camper across, to spend the weeks during the break sight seeing.
So we decided to travel together for a while. they wanted to travel to Al Ula/Hegra so I had to change my route. But there seemed to be enough time to travel up north at a later point in time.
Some Rally crazy prince has shouted them an apartment in one of the Al Ula luxury resorts, which came in very handy. A nice shower, soft bed. But he desert around Al Ula is of breath-taking beauty. So we took out into the desert again just in time for Christmas. We dined with style the German way: Venison Gulasch, potato dumplings and mulled wine, which they had smuggled into the country and some Christmas decoration.Lue lisää
Wadi Dissa
26. joulukuuta 2020, Saudi-Arabia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C
Solving the Enigma
29. joulukuuta 2020, Saudi-Arabia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
For a few days now I was unable to use any app on my phone that required internet: no maps, no calls, I could not transfer money to my card to use on the ATM, no email, nothing. First I thought, there was an internet outage, but in the next bigger city I had the same problem. There must be a problem with my internet provider. But finding one without internet is quite difficult as well and following verbal directions was never my strong side. Slowly I ran out of money, and it was really hard to get around, particularly in towns. The internet providers really tried their best, perhaps I have more luck in the next town. I am running out of money and out of fuel. It is getting desperate. I go to Al Baik, a very popular Saudi food retailer a la MacDonalds. You always find young, and I thought as well computer savvy people there. Nobody could help me.
I was really getting desperate. I am sitting in my car, crying! The first time during the whole two years I am on the road. Rex is consoling me, putting his head on my lap and sighs loudly. I need to find a solution!
Finally, after asking I don't know how many young men for help, one asks me, if I perhaps had a VPN turned on. OF COURSE! And schwupps.... I was back in the game. What relief! If I wasn't in Saudi, I would have given this guy a huge hug.
After getting money, refuelling, stocking up on groceries, I am back in the game. But just about 20km our of town, a hear a loud noise coming out of the engine compartment: one of the belts was broken. Being in Saudi it is not a big problem to get stuck on the side of the road. Inevitably one of the next cars passing stopped and organised for a pick up truck.Lue lisää
...And again back to Riyadh
2. tammikuuta 2021, Saudi-Arabia ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
I had to make it back to my dentist appointment at 10pm.
Invitation to a Bedouin Camp
11. tammikuuta 2021, Saudi-Arabia ⋅ 🌙 17 °C
I was just in the middle of the sands setting up camp when a car drove past and I was packed up and swiftly transferred to a Bedouin camp.
Men and women live in separate camps, quite a distance apart. This allows the women to freely move outside the tents without Niqab, do they wish so.
Until now I was invited into the men's tents only, which I consider as a great honour. But in this camp the word has spread and after a while the women get impatient. They send a kid across, telling the men their time is up. The head of the family walked me to the women's area, which was a few 100m away from the men's tents.
What a lively bunch that was! Is the atmosphere in the men tents quiet and dignified, the women tent buzzes of life. I had a very enjoyable evening.
As I cannot post pictures of the women, I attached the little video to share the atmosphere and joy with you.
Explanation to the camp layout:
1) Herders' camp
2) Men's camp
3) Women's campLue lisää
My Guardian Angel
11. tammikuuta 2021, Saudi-Arabia ⋅ 🌙 16 °C
It has been a long day: first I tried unsuccessfully to get a Covid shot before leaving Riyadh, then, during my lunch break at a very clean Al Baik my phone dropped into the toilet. When back on the road I had a flat tyre and I was just about to change it myself, when just 100m down the Road I saw a garage with tyre change. How lucky can you get.
Until I got going again, it was quite late, I felt really flat and decided it was time to call this lousy day by its name. The sand between the dunes looked firm. Normally I always check out the sand before driving into, but I was just too tired. So in I drove but didn't get too far and I sunk in. I couldn't be bothered digging today, so I rang the Islamic Sand Rescue asking them to come tomorrow.
As they said they'd come around 10 the next morning I had plenty of time to take Rex for his morning walk. When I came back, there was a man standing beside my car. As I learned later, he was not of the ISR but just passing by seeing Lola deep in sand. In no time we had Lola on safe terrain. when I admired the prowess of his vehicle he asked me, if I would like to drive a decent sandworthy car for a change. Yes, of course I do! Whith a big grin on his face he gave me his keys and off we went up and down the dunes, first very hesitant but with his encouragement I got really good at that. And had a whole lot of fun doing it.Lue lisää
A Night out with Mohammed
12. tammikuuta 2021, Saudi-Arabia ⋅ 🌙 11 °C
I met up again with Mohammed, my guide from the Camel festival, who helped me as well selling the IPhone I had won. We are enjoying a night out visiting the old bazar in Al Hofuf.
At one point we separated to go to the bathroom. Upon my return I had a look around to find Mohammed and was confronted with dozens of men, wearing thoubs and shamahs, the faces unrecognisable due to the Covid face masks. I was befallen by some kind of panik: how am I ever going to find Mohammed again? What colour of thoub was he wearing? Grey, or beige? Or was it white? And then the shamah. White or checked? No idea!
I needn't have worried. He found me! I guess they are used to identify their women by little details, have the women always been hidden behind their hijabs. I asked him, how the kids find their mums. Well, simple: they just do. That explains it!
They learn to look at the little details to recognise a person. This is the reason why the people pay so much attention to eyes, which is all they can see of a woman in public. They could endlessly swoon over my green eyes, men and women alike.Lue lisää
The colorful World of Roundabouts
15. tammikuuta 2021, Australia ⋅ 🌙 22 °C
Saudis love their roundabouts. Nearly every town has an original. Here is just a little selection.
Saudi Women
19. tammikuuta 2021, Andaman Sea ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C
Long have I learned not to underestimate those hejabbed women! I always imagined them as being shy, meek, but far from it. Travelling in the eastern world for some time I had to drop a lot of my prejudices and came to recognize that hiding behind the Hejab are women with all sorts of characteristics, different levels of education, some more, some less confident. I have met a professor of artificial intelligence, IT specialists, doctors, women like you and me, wearing Hejabs, not because the husband or father insists on it, but because, as they insist, they choose to.
One day, when camping in the middle of the desert far from the next road I am spotted by Mohammad, who right away jinxes me away into his Bedouin camp. After an afternoon of hunting with the falcons and herding and riding some camels, I am invited to spend the night in the camp. In the traditional Saudi society men and women living separate. Once the children are reaching puberty, or even before that they as well are living in the respective quarters. So it is quite unusual within the traditional society in general for a woman to be invited into the men’s majilis, the sitting room. But for me it is a regular occurrence. With my status as a woman traveling the lands alone, I am located in a grey area, being a traveller, enjoying the greatest respect and hospitality, on the other hand being a woman, travelling all alone through the world and therefore not fitting the social norms and expectations. I will be sitting with the men, being asked about my journey, and I asking them about their lives and views. We will be drinking tea and coffee and have some sweets being prepared and served by the young men of the tribe. After a while the women are getting impatient for me to join them and will send a courier, a boy and girl of an age where they can still walk between both worlds, to fetch me.
In the family compounds, in the biggest I visited around 120 family member were living on a city block together, the women’s area might be on a different storey of the house, or a different house on the compound. In the camps the women’s camp can be a few hundred meters away from the men’s camp. Of course, particularly in bigger cities nowadays small family units are found as well, disregarding the gender separation.
Walking from the men’s to the women’s area is like entering a different world. Saudis are a very dignified people. Always dressed neatly, well looked after, speaking calmly, on average well educated.
The men will have a big open fire contained in a sometimes elaborately decorated pit, they will smoke and calmly discuss matters on hand, sipping away on their tea and coffee. Sometimes they will dance, but this as well will be in a dignified manner, mostly dancing in arranged steps, all together in a circle.
Once you enter the women’s world the atmosphere will change rapidly. The settings will be less elaborate, there will be little kids held and nursed, the bigger ones, boys and girls running around, music playing, loud chatter and laughing. Inevitably the women and children will be dancing and ululating, they are making me feel at home, giving me the feeling to be part of the family. And sharing their thoughts and opinions with me.
During my time in the KSA, I was always treated with respect, no staring or wolf whistles. I continue to be regularly greeted with thumbs up, by old men and young women equally, one time the women were ululating me through a village. When looking lost in a street, I can be sure that somebody, man or woman alike will come to my aid. The Saudis are the most welcoming, hospitable people I have met, not expecting anything in return. They seem to carry a genuine concern for your happiness, calling out a happy “Welcome to Saudi Arabia” while driving past.
During my time here in Saudi, I saw a different picture of the life of women from that we in the West expect. The women I met seemed more or less happy and content with their lives, as most of us are. I do not ignore the human rights issues Saudi women are confronted with and are fighting against in my conversations, but the Saudi women I met never complained to me about this aspect of their lives.
More than once was I pulled by a woman around the corner or a doorway, to a crouch beside a car, where they could lift their hijab and show me their face. To make sure I will remember them.
We are all formed by our upbringing, social norms, and expectations. We need standards to measure our hopes and dreams against. We need the confidence to follow our passions and step into the unexpected.
Life is not only black and white, not even in Saudi, a country with a monochromatic separation of the sexes, but which I found it to be as colourful as the many shades of its desert sands.
PS: Normally it is not allowed to make photos of unveiled women. These three ladies gave me their permission: "We are too old to care!" But still I will not publish these pictures on a my platform to protect them from trouble. I seemed to detect a rebellious streak. One telling me, when she was young, she used to herd the family's sheep across the border into Jemen unaccompanied.Lue lisää
Al- Ahsa Province
23. tammikuuta 2021, Saudi-Arabia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
It is time to move South into the Al Ahsa Province. B&S have told me, there was the only Saudi Caravan Park. I had to check this out. it was a nice park in Al Uquair, with parking areas for trailers, with water connection. Free of charge.
The next day when walking Rex, I get to know Rasheed. He is the Director of this big park, the concept of his and all the buildings on it are his brain child. We have a long conversation this day and the following and at the end he invites me to his home in Al Hofuf.
Everybody in Saudi seems to be using Snapchat. Several times in supermarkets, on the street somebody came to me, telling me they saw me on snapchat, welcoming me to Saudi and in turn posting pictures with me on SnapChat.
Now a new opportunity arose. People knew where I was, so already early in the morning I had visitors welcoming me to Saudi Arabia and bringing gifts.
Visiting Rashed and his huge family in Al-Hufuf and enjoying again the boundless Saudi hospitality. Rashed's father is the Patriarch of this family which inhabits a whole block of a street in the city. He, as a single child has married three wives and the 120 something people living together in this compound are all offspring plus their spouses.
Another dream coming true: riding a horse in the desert. Doing it without saddle is quite a challenge and I loved it.
Visit in the Jawatha heritage park were I again received the VIP treatment.
And a simple but delicious dinner at home. I thank you so much for your hospitality! You all made me feel so welcome.Lue lisää
Thank You!
25. tammikuuta 2021, Saudi-Arabia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
After seven unsuccessful attempts crisscrossing all of Al Hofuf and all the surrounding towns to refill my gas bottle, the heaven sent me some very helpful guys. They found me lost in front of a gas refiller and after asking for my worries took me to their farm. After a few tries and modifications they connected my empty to their full bottle and squeezed some Gas into mine. Good that I don't need to worry about my career as Safety Advisor any longer!!!
Then some friends appeared and they decided to make me even happier by taking me to their workshop and giving my car a service and a good wash. But first we had to have lunch. Off we all went to quite a fancy restaurant. After the main course, the owner or employee gave me a guided tour and a long photo session with interview and many more photos with guests and other people ensued.
Finally we were released and returned to our table where I was surprised to find our tea and coffee to still be warm. We continued on to the workshop, where they did the service and the car wash for free!!! And they threw in a spare oil filter for the next oil change on top! Thank you guys from the Lube Masters! You really rock!!!Lue lisää
Falcons, Camels, Goats and Sheep
29. tammikuuta 2021, Saudi-Arabia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
Going hunting with a falcon. The view of the pigeon needs to be manipulated with some tape so she flies upwards. Once it is released and has gained some ground, the falcon is being sent off. We jump into the cars, the chase is on. The falcon is after the pigeon, we after the falcon. The view is very hazy due to a small sandstorm which makes it quite hard for the falcon to follow his prey. Eventually, to my big surprise he loses the flattering pigeon. But now we have to catch the falcon.
With high speed we race through the sand, through ditches, over dunes, past some camels, across a highway. Thank goodness there was no oncoming traffic ... until the falcon was tired and lands on some structure from where the hungry bird can be lured with some chicken leg.
I am explained that after this long and exhausting chase against the wind the falcon will be exhausted to the extent that he develops a temperature. This you can determine, by touching the leg. Of course I have to try that, and the falcon takes my finger for some chicken and nearly bites it off. For all of my readers who have never been bitten by a falcon, THIS HURTS!!!
Now I have been knocked over by a donkey, bitten in my forehead by a camel, and my finger nearly amputated by a falcon. I wonder what comes next.
After that I am brought to the women's camp, but not without a short camel ride on the way.
And then the women's camp! What can you say, the women generous warm hearted, always ready to laugh, to party, to sing. Always making you feel welcome and at home and part of the family
Late at night a desert spring mouse came for a visit. I am sure it got some scraps of the bread, prepared just there and eaten like our crepes.Lue lisää
A Few days on the coast
1. helmikuuta 2021, Saudi-Arabia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C
Then Finally I am back again at the Persian Gulf, which on this side of the water they call the Arabian Gulf.
Another architectural Highlight is the Ithra Building in Dhahran. I find this building absolutely sensational! Inspired by rock formations in the desert.
We are camped on a piece of land stolen from the sea, no settlement established as yet only some roads. The bridge to Bahrain is only a feww hundred meters away, but there is no getting there due to corona. We have some peaceful days here, Aziz coming to visit from Al Baha, Rex finding a little friend as well. I call her Buttons, a stray dog, crying all night for fear of the other strays around. So I let her sleep under my bed. Here she can rest in piece. If I wasn't travelling, I would keep here. All can do for her is getting her desexed, immunised and find a home for her. A few days later the vets rang me, Buttons has been adopted.Lue lisää
Our last days in Saudi
2. helmikuuta 2021, Saudi-Arabia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
I was at Al Uquair beach again when we received the message the borders are opening and I had to leave Saudi as the visa had long expired.
We had to say our good byes. The director from the Al Hofuf University 80km away has heard about me and came with his wife, gifting me an Abaya and a coffee service, Rasheed handed me a plaqua commemorating my visit at Al Uquair beach. They gave me a huge goodbye.
After getting the PCR test done in Al Khobar/Dammam, getting the dogs certification done for the UAE it was time to leave.Lue lisää

Matkaaja
A day of visits: after my stay in Al-Uquair beach was posted on Snapchat, people were coming from all directions to see and welcome me to Saudi and to bring me presents. Here I was given an abaya and a coffee set.
Giving up is not an Option
3. helmikuuta 2021, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
B&S and I left Al Uquair separately in the morning. As I drove down the road along to coast, the traffic got scarcer and scarcer, a sign told me the road would end soon. Well, that’s no news with a highway, the map indicated a road… The four-laned highway turned into a two-laned road, which after a while turned into a one-laned road, which lead into a track and then I was in the middle of a road-building project, driving in between excavators, huge trucks and anything else that is needed to construct a highway. I quickly turned off the safety advisor voice in my head, telling me I cannot possibly think, I could drive through there, and continued on, asking construction workers for the way, if there was a choice of more than one track. I tried to get in touch with the Boegers, who had warned me about this mud bit, but hadn’t heard from them since. And somewhat muddy it got, and slippery, but I thought, not so bad that it would justify the warning. After a while, following my GPS I found my way out through this maze of construction tracks. This was another occasion, where a 80km track turns out to take several hours to complete.
But no trace of my friends. I left them a message that I had made it to the road and sent them my location and then I just pulled over to wait for them. And I waited and waited. It was already getting late when they finally arrived. Totally exhausted. They had gotten lost in the maze of construction tracks, gotten stuck in deep mud, where they only could be rescued by some excavation machine, then they had to drive through deep and soft sand…. But in the end, they made it. I was very relieved that we hadn’t travelled in convoy.
We arrived at the border at 1900hrs. I would normally avoid border crossings during the night at any cost, but we ran the risk of the border closing again, so we decided to pass.
Here at the Saudi custom’s gate we run into our first problem: the number plate of Boeger’s car was not recognized and it took about ½ hour to get to the bottom of the issue. I passed this one without a hitch.
Next stop passport control: Oh, the visa has expired nine months ago? We explain the issue, that due to corona the borders were closed and our visas extended without any formal documentation. I showed the email conversations we had with “Visit Saudi”, the Department for Tourism. The friendly Customs Officer (CO in the following) tried to find information about our situation, without success. By now it was 2100hrs and nobody knew what to do. Finally, I had the far-fetched idea to call that Officer at “Visit Saudi”, knowing by now, Saudis work the strangest hours, and low and behold, somebody answered the phone. I don’t know what they discussed, we just waited and waited and 2 hours later we heard the chuck-a-chuck of six stamps, and we were ready to go.
Getting to the arrival gate on the UAE side we were greeted by a huge queue of truck drivers waiting in line to get the arrival stamp. After queuing a short time with all the kids in tow, a CO approaches us and takes us into a special office, where we were processed quite quickly.
Off we went, to the customs gate. Knowing that the Emirates charge a fortune, €400, for the import of dogs, I wanted to smuggle Rex in unseen. I had given Rexelby some sleeping pills and hid him under a blanket on my bed. The customs officers were checking my paperwork, and the VIN number, which is under the dog’s front seat. Everything fine here I thought when one of the COs wanted to investigate the van. He checks it quickly but then unfortunately lifts the blanket I had covered Rex with. Bugger!!! No stamp for me! I must go to the veterinary.
In Al Khobar, I had gone to get a document completed, as required for entry into UAE. The officer there had told me he wouldn’t know the form I had downloaded from the appropriate UAE internet site, but told me, they would issue me with one they normally use for this purpose.
After a 10min criss-crossing the Border area to the Vet office, the vet at the UAE side told me, this document was not valid and made me complete another online form. This I have now to get signed off by a Saudi Veterinarian. On the Saudi side. In the middle of the night? I was sure, he had gone home by now? No! He just had a falcon coming through his office, just signed off by the Saudi Vet. I must go there!
So back I go to the customs guys. Telling them, I had to go back to Saudi, to get the form signed off. Oh no, I need a letter from the vet, confirming I had to pass. So, all the way back to the Vet, who issues me with a small handwritten note. On the way, I think this whole thing turns out to be ridiculous; a solution has to be found.
Backt the customs area, the main customs guy is awaiting me with 3 other officers. They ask me again, why I need to get across, and I tell them, I needed to get the documents for my dog checked. “And all of that, even though I don’t have a dog” I try but they had seen a dog before!? “No, you must be mistaken. Take a look by yourselves!” I open the door and show Rex to them, who is still sleeping. “Do you see a dog in here?” I ask them. “No, I don’t see a dog!” the three officers say. The Main CO says: “but I see a dog! You have to get your form signed of.” Frustrated I ask him: “Any signature will do?” “Yes, just come back with a signature.”
So off I go. Again, to the passport officer, past all the waiting Pakistanis, then into the Saudi side. Here I am stopped by another officer who saw me passing a few hours back and of course wonders, what I was doing there again. I show him the Vet’s paper, but of course, he does not recognize a paper like this. He has to ring a superior about what to do with me. After 10 minutes he lets me pass.
Finally, I get to the Saudi border. What do I want? I need to see the vet. He makes me sit in the waiting room. After an hour I go to see him again, asking what the problem was. He cannot find a Vet. Please sit down and wait. Another hour goes by. No Veterinarian.
On the other side of the office, I see a long queue of people getting documents stamped. Didn’t the CO say, any stamp will do? Now I line up, my document in hand. When it is my turn, I ask him to put a stamp on the document. No! he cannot do that! I explain my situation, but still, it is a No. In my desperation I make him an offer: He goes to the loo, leaves the stamp sitting on his desk, and when he comes back, the deed will be done, he doesn’t know anything, he has never seen me. He must have thought there was less risk involved in putting the stamp on my doc than being accused to leave the stamp unattended, open for misuse. Which way ever, he finally stamped my document.
With my stamped document in hand, I drive back to the UAE, past the waiting Pakistanis I get another entry stamp into my passport and make my way to the CO. Triumphantly I show him my document. He studies it, and says, he has never seen a stamp like this before. Where did I get this from? I just shrug my shoulders, I don’t know? But you told me to just get the document stamped…. No, you still have to go back to the vet.
So back into the car, I drive around the customs building and back to the Vet. But just there, where I would have needed to turn left to get to the vet, there was a sign saying, EXIT. So, thinking “Bugger that!!” I swung around my steering wheel and drove towards the exit and made it through the check. The next stop was for the insurance. I did all the official stuff and was just about to pay when I felt somebody tapping my shoulder. A very gentle voice was saying: “The Veterinarian is the other way! Let me guide you there!” What can I do but to follow him!
On the way to the vet, the under CO profusely apologized, he was ordered by his superior, to catch me; he knew, that I was trying to get through the border for 6 hours now, he was so sorry for the inconvenience.
The ordeal was not finished yet, another 1 hour at the vet. He of course did not recognize the stamp. Where did I get THIS stamp from? Who has given me the stamp? I don’t know, he did not tell me the name. The nice CO: just give her the stamp…. But no, he needed to do it all properly inclusive the 400€. But finally, I made it.
All in all, it took me 11hours to get from one side of the border to the other. At 7 am I was through. Totally exhausted I just stopped somewhere on the side of the road and fell asleep.
The border closed again, later that day. We just had made it through.Lue lisää
Dune Bashing
5. helmikuuta 2021, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
After a gruelling 11hrs overnighter border crossing from Saudi to the UAE and two restful days on the beach the Boegers and I drove deep into the desert Rub Al-Chali to watch those crazy guys driving up the 120m high dune, which is named “ the “Terrible Hill". This hill is set just outside of the Liwa oasis, a semicircle of approximately 50 oasis located very close together smack in the middle of this huge desert.
Soon we got to know some young men who asked me, if I would like a ride. Do I like a ride!!??? YESSS! PLEASE!!! We just had to wait for Rasheed with his Jeep and off we went. We didn’t go the shortest way up. This would have been boring compared to the way Rasheed took me and his friend. The backway was plastered with steep dunes, which made for a far more exciting ride than any Rollercoaster. Rasheed, you are a dune artist! This ride was quite a thrill!!
Another two things I find quite fascinating:
Rasheed he had driven the 40kms to the dunes not on the road but through the desert. When asked he said he did not use any navigating System, he just knows how to get to where he needs to in the desert, after all he’d been living in the desert for 30 years. Considering, that for me the dunes don’t look too different from one another, and in addition they change shape and move I find this astonishing.
The other thing is: here he is driving through the desert, in his open car, and I am sure, sand squirting all around him, as he has no responsibility for a passenger, and his Thoub and Shamagh (my Emirati friends, please correct me if you call your clothes differently) his robe and head dress, are the brightest of white. No speck of dust to be seen. His friends also. How do you do this guys? You always look so smart and clean and I, with my travel clothes always feel like Aschenputtel beside you.
I tried to record the ride, but I had to watch where we are going and so the film contains more dashboard than dune. Unfortunately. So I only attach the downhill ride which was quite uneventful compared to the ascentLue lisää

Matkaajait's amazing how quick you find friends to experience that country and people .l think the whole journey gives you the roundup or satisfaction in or of your life . have a good homecoming (but not yet , hey ?!)
































































































































































