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    • skip's retirement travelEthiopia
      Day 6

      Church of the Trinity, Gondar

      October 22, 2022 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      The Church of the Trinity here is not the typical round church of Ethiopia. It is rectangular, following the tradition in Axum. I'm told an emperor wanted to move the ark of the covenant from Axum to Gondar. So he used Aksumite architecture. He didn't succeed. The ark hasn't been moved.
      The church dates to the 16th century, and all the artwork is original. So I'm uploading a video that scans around the space to show the extensive art typical of Ethiopian Orthodox churches.      Read more

    • skip's retirement travelEthiopia
      Day 6

      Fasil Ghebbi

      October 22, 2022 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      Fasil Ghebbi is a royal compound in Gondar of about 7 hectares and containing some 20 buildings. Most are royal palaces, as each successive emperor built a new one. This fortress was the home of the Ethiopian emperors from the early 17th century until the middle of the 19th century. The buildings are heavily damaged from bombing during world war 2. I'm told that during the Italian occupation, these buildings were used for military purposes. This was during the British assisted effort to remove the occupation.
      Historically, each successive emperor built his own palace.
      The 1st picture looks up from the entrance to several of the palaces. The 2nd picture is the 1st palace built and is the largest. The 3rd picture is one of the Royal room there. The 4th picture is a cistern to retain water during the dry season.
      The 5th and 6th pictures are 2 of the later palaces. The 7th picture is a royal banqueting hall, while the 8th picture is of stables located next to the banqueting hall.
      The 9th picture is the lion house. Lions were kept at the palace in honor of the imperial title, "Lion of Judah."
      If I could have gotten a decent picture, the 10th picture would have been of the sauna. Really. There was a sauna in Ethiopia centuries ago!      Read more

    • skip's retirement travelEthiopia
      Day 7

      Simien Mountains

      October 23, 2022 in Ethiopia ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      This is both a national park and world heritage site. It contains some spectacular scenery and many endemic species. All the pictures were taken between 3100 and 3500 meters above sea level.
      The 1st picture is the Jinbar waterfall, said to be the highest in Africa at over 550 meters. Being here at the end of the rainy season is good for lots of water.
      The next 4 pictures give a sense of the rugged and beautiful scenery.
      The rest of the photos are wildlife in the park. One of the most famous residents is the gelada baboon. They are known for the red patch on the breast. Next is the klipspringer, followed by Menelik's bushbuck.
      The last picture is a flower I like, especially it's name: red hot poker flower. I love it when species are named for their looks.      Read more

    • skip's retirement travelEthiopia
      Day 10

      Lalibela

      October 26, 2022 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      Lalibela is another former Ethiopian imperial capital in the north of the country. It's current fame relates to the rock hewn churches here. They are all attributed to King Lalibela (now Saint Lalibela). So the churches date to the 12th century.
      There are 11 rock hewn churches here, too many to fit in a single post. So this will be spread over 2 posts. This is another place where I've experienced that feeling that the pictures and TV shows don't do justice to what is here. Being here is amazing.
      This post begins with the most famous of the churches, St. George. This is the cruciform building carved down into the rock as seen in the 1st 2 pictures. The 3rd picture is in St George's and is a treasure box dating from the time of Lalibela.
      Every Ethiopian Orthodox church has a separate building called Bethlehem. It it from Bet Lechem or house of bread. Here the communion elements are prepared, including grinding the wheat and baking the bread. The bread and wine are then carried to the holy of holies for mass. The 4th picture is one of these that is no longer used. In this case, the elements were carried through a tunnel to the church. That's the 5th picture.
      The 6th picture looks across at a 3 story church thought to have been the royal residence for Lalibela and his successors. The 7th picture is in that church with the local priest.
      The 8th picture shows the front of one of the churches. The curtain to the left blocks the holy of holies and typical art is to the right.
      The 9th picture is one of the passages between churches, this one bringing to mind that needle's eye and the camel. The last picture is another one of the churches. This is a cave church. Notice the section to the right that looks like concrete blocks. This section is a restoration. The rest is original.      Read more

    • skip's retirement travelEthiopia
      Day 6

      Gondar

      October 22, 2022 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      Gondar, in northern Ethiopia, is a former imperial capital. There is more here than Fasil Ghebbi and Trinity cathedral (see other posts).
      The 1st picture is the view from my hotel. The 2nd and 3rd pictures are in the local market.
      The last 3 pictures are in another part of the city. These were also built by Fasil. The 4th picture is the remains of the royal stables adjacent to the royal bath in the 5th picture. I'm told this is still used during Timkat, the Ethiopian Orthodox celebration of the baptism of Jesus that is held at Epiphany. The last picture is another part of the same site. In the background is the weaving factory. The small building to the left is the tomb for the emperor's horse.      Read more

    • skip's retirement travelEthiopia
      Day 9

      Awra Amba

      October 25, 2022 in Ethiopia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      Awra Amba is an intentional community founded in 1980 based on an ethos of mutual support and egalitarianism. The 1st picture is of their posted community "rule." I find this very positive, even if counter cultural.
      The community founder, Zumra Nuru, is still present and helps lead the community. I had the privilege of meeting him.
      The 2nd picture is in their museum that traces Mr. Nuru's story and the story of the community. It also includes a number of utensils and tools made there.
      The 3rd picture is the standard kitchen in every home, designed by Mr. Nuru. The round section is the oven to make injera. To the left is a grill. And there are 2 ports for heating. They are to the back and have covers on them.
      The 4th picture is in the kindergarten of the community school. The kids are introduced to the community ethos early. They have built their own high school too. The community has near 100% literacy.
      The 5th picture is in their library. Most of the books are in English as schooling is in English starting in middle school. Most of the books are academic, though there is some fiction.
      The 6th picture is in the elderly building where the oldest members of the community live and are cared for.
      The 7th picture is of the village restaurant and coffee shop. They even have a guest house. The 8th picture is one of the rooms. That is a full bathroom with shower.
      The 9th picture is their weaving shop, and the last is their store that sells what they make.
      I found the community and it's ethos inspiring and impressive.      Read more

    • TravelerÄthiopien - Natur und Kultur
      Day 7

      Beta Giyorgis Felsenkirche

      November 12, 2019 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      Die Beta Giyorgis Kirche ist wegen ihrer beeindruckenden Kreuzform wahrscheinlich die weltweit bekannteste aller Felsenkirchen Äthiopiens. Sie ist dem heiligen Georg gewidmet.
      So ein imposantes Bauwerk habe ich noch nie gesehen.Read more

      See translation
    • La route de.s Pékin.s
      Day 4

      Gondar

      January 9, 2020 in Ethiopia ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

      Réveil aux aurores pour prendre un minibus pour Gondar. Il y a 11 places, le nombre de passagers oscille entre 18 et 25 au fil du trajet. Faut pas regarder la route, ça fout les jetons. De manière générale, il y a peu de voitures individuelles - ça coûte trop cher. A Gondar il y a un vieil ensemble de constructions royales du 17e siècle qui ont un style mi-palais mauresque, mi-château écossais. On s'y promène en profitant du calme qui y règne, puis on se rend à l'église Debre Birhan Sélassié, où une bonne centaine de chérubins éthiopiens peints au plafond observent les visiteurs. Au restaurant on mange des tibs, sorte de viande mijotée à manger avec de l'injera, la grosse crêpe éthiopienne un peu acide. Un papy bavard raconte un tas d'histoires drôles qui font marrer tout le monde, un peu en mode patriarche déchaîné qui fait des sketchs à lui tout seul. On est bien déçus de ne pas comprendre !Read more

      See translation
    • La route de.s Pékin.s
      1
      Day 3

      Lac Tana

      January 8, 2020 in Ethiopia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

      Les rives du vaste lac Tana abritent des petits monastères qu'on va visiter en bateau. Assez sommaires, ils renferment des peintures représentant des scènes bibliques dans un style naïf et coloré. A Entos Eyesu, l'une d'entre elles représente le Diable, mais le prêtre la cache derrière une planche - on ne sait jamais. Pas de bol pour nous, certains des monastères sont fermés pour la messe, mais c'est aussi l'occasion de voir les fidèles complètement absorbés dans leurs prières. Alors on les laisse tranquilles pour aller voir une invention éthiopienne, le "bar-musée". Le concept : on s'accoude au comptoir d'une petite cahute où sont entreposés croix, encensoirs, tambours, manuscrits et autres objets religieux. Le prêtre, derrière le comptoir, passe en revue chacun de ses petits trésors. Fallait y penser.

      Au retour, là où démarre le Nil Bleu on peut observer deux beaux hippopotames qui sortent la tête de l'eau en agitant les oreilles.

      Bahir Dar est plus agréable que Addis Abeba. Grosse pizza "tikawé" en regardant les tuks tuks (bajaj) passer et on rentre.      Read more

      See translation
    • skip's retirement travelEthiopia
      Day 11

      Yemerehane Kristos cave church

      October 27, 2022 in Ethiopia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      This is a late Aksumite church built in a cave, probably in the 11th century, making it older than the more famous churches in Lalibela. It is located on a natural spring, and the water is considered holy.
      The 1st picture is the final approach to the church after a climb of about 20 minutes. That wall is a new structure to provide security. There is a small waterfall from the cliff above the cave to the left of the security wall that pilgrims use to shower as a form of healing.
      The 2nd picture is the front of the church inside the cave, behind the security wall. It is made of marble, limestone, wood and rock. I'm told that the door was provided by the Caliph Saladin at that time. The 3rd picture is a detail of the lintel over the door showing lions.
      The next 4 pictures are all inside the church, showing the extraordinary decoration, most of which is original. The last of these is the local priest, fully vested and standing before the Holy of Holies, showing 2 ancient processional crosses, one gold and the other silver.
      Behind the church, where the cave continues back into the mountain, is an area with as many as 2,000 skeletons. I understand that these were priests, monks and pilgrims who wanted to be buried in this holy place. This is in the hard to see last picture.      Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Amhara Region, Amhara, Āmara Kilil

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