Portugal Livraria Lello

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  • Day 21–27

    Easter on the Camino

    Yesterday in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    It rained on us again, or is it still? But it was a bit warmer and the rain was not as drenching, so that was good. Jayme is beginning to improve though you might not believe it to hear her cough. I am holding steady, no better, no worse. With the report out of the way, let me tell you about my day.
    It was a fairly easy walk today which left lots of time for observation and reflection. And being Easter morning, it was hard not to think long and hard about my religious faith, which has been pretty much non-existent for a long time. If you know me, you know i am convicted in my spiritual beliefs. But today, religion was everywhere, and I had not a single negative thought. It was really, really nice to feel that long closed door crack open a bit. It started with nearly every single business being closed down, shops, whole malls, restaurants, pharmacies, even gas stations. This country is all about allowing the people to worship something other than making the next dollar. And the people do! We are not quite positive this actually happened since neither of us speak Portuguese, but Jayme greeted a man this morning saying "bom dia". Normally people will respond in the same way and then offer a "bom camino" or "bom viage". But this guy started to speak to her as if he were admonishing her. We both seemed to understand that he did not think she should be walking on the Camino today, but should instead be in mass. Anyway, it seemed the whole country was decorating their houses, all dressed up and out visiting , eating Easter dinners together, and yes going to mass. The sense of community around this day and its traditions was palpable.
    On my walk today, I must have passed dozens of shrines on lawns or built into the walls of people homes dedicated to Mary. And there were three chapels built in her honor, just on our route alone. And when I went to mass this evening (yes I did) they began the mass to the Risen Lord with a procession and blessing with incense and song to her.
    The church was packed, barely a seat to be had at a 7pm mass when I would have expected most people to be in front of the TV or too full from dinner to get up and out. But, it truly seemed the whole town was there.
    Somehow, in that sea of worshipers, we stood out. Immediately after the mass was over, a young man named Pedro approached me and offered to tell me about and show me around the actaul church and give a bit of history and some info about the procession. It seems that for hundreds of years the youth of the parish volunteer to go to every single home in the parish and announce that Jesus is risen. They carry poles with crosses and are welcomed by the people they visit.
    I loved the spirit around this shared belief in Jesus. I'm not sure I'm ready to rejoin, but I do admire the way they all join in community and celebration of a shared belief.
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  • Day 18

    Day 15 Part 2 - Easter Mass

    Yesterday in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    "The great gift of Easter is hope." — Basil Hume.

    Tonight the gentleman who looks after the auberge encouraged us to go to mass at the cathedral in the Grijo Monastery and I’m glad I did.

    The Monastery grounds are ~2,000 years old and the cathedral that was built to replace the original is ~600 years old. The church was beautiful and while the service was in Portuguese, it was moving.

    After the service a young man named Pedro introduced himself and asked if we were pilgrims. He gave us a brief history of the cathedral and monastery.

    Happy Easter and may the world find peace in these turbulent times.
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  • Day 1

    Porto to Vilarinho, 26 km

    April 11 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    First day of the short Camino. I had (amazingly) a great sleep. Started walking around 8:00. The weather app on my phone had said it would start raining early this afternoon. It was off by a few hours. Already raining when I left my room. Light rain and drizzle all morning. The temperature was great - jacket weather. But lots of offing and oning of the rain coat. And the fancy cobbles in the centre of the city are treacherous when wet!!!!

    It was a sort of long but not hard day. It was a long flat exit to the city. I’d read people’s complaints about cobblestones on this Camino before. How hard can they be??? I have new shoes that still have some cushion. Ha! It was about 3;30 when I finally stepped on some dirt.

    I don’t mind the big long ex-urban walks. It is kind of cool to see the edges of cities. But I’m hoping for a bit of unpaved ground tomorrow, which will be a little bit longer.

    It feels like early summer. Wisteria in full bloom. Trees covered in oranges and lemons, some of them as big as a softball (a squished softball). Huge. Twice as big as any lemon we could buy at home.

    My new tiny and waterproof (!) and light pack feels pretty good so far!

    I stopped twice for coffee and once for lunch. Things are inexpensive. And there are so many pastries and so much bread. I have a Portuguese repertoire of about ten words. I did no homework before I came - one of the less important effects of the strike on at work! I saw a few peregrinos in the morning and then some more this afternoon. There are definitely people around but it doesn’t feel crowded. For a tiny bit I walked near a young English couple who were singing tragic old English folk tunes.

    I’m staying in a private albergue tonight. Room of six people. Windows wide open (for which I am grateful). Everyone now is on their phone. Including me. But 5 of us had dinner at a bakery. And then came back to tour the two separate parts of the albergue. Their side comes with an open bottle of port and a stack of wee glasses.

    So great to be walking!!!!
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  • Day 2

    Porto Day 2

    April 5 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    No enger deels onroueger Nuecht, well mer un enger Haptstross wunnen an eenfach verglasten Fensteren hun, waren mir mol gudd Brunchen. An well Vakanz ass, hun ech mer et net huelen gelos dat dekandentesten vun der Kart ze bestellen: Pocheiert Eer mat Bacon, Pulled Pork an BBQ Sauce - geilomat.
    Zum Gleck haten mer haut bessert Wieder, mee well et de Moien nach no Reen ausgesinn haat, hun ech keng Kaap matgeholl an guess ween elo e rouden Kapp huet? Yes, exactly.

    Dono huet eis Odyssee ugefangen: queech duech Porto, rop an eroof hun mer all meigleg Gaass erkundet. 29KM an x dausenden Trapen mei speit sin mer dunn eppes giess: och hei rem Dekadenz.

    Elo setzen den Dominique an ech nach an engem leiwen Bistro an drenken e leschten, ier mer dann k.o. an Bett falen.

    P.s. direkt de Moien huet och nach e Pigeon op mein Rucksak geschass..
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  • Day 3

    Sticks and Tiles

    April 3 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Had a decent sleep.
    Had breakfast at hostel for 5 euros. Delicious. Met a woman from Texas, "running away from the chaos back home." She talked a lot!!!!

    Walked to Decathalon sports store to buy my walking sticks. Took pictures along the way.

    3 new roommates tonight. Friends since 1998..... All from Venezuela but living in Italy and Spain now.
    Was practicing my Espanol with them🤣

    I went to a cool shop that makes bristled items like brooms to shaving brushes..... Very cool👍

    Getting organized for tomorrow. Looks like rain.... 🤞🙏🍀
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  • Day 4–6

    02 Porto

    March 30 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    In Porto angekommen, wurde ich morgens gegen 9 Uhr von André, meinem Couchsurfing-Host, bei der Station abgeholt. Wir starteten den Tag mit einem typisch portugiesischen Frühstück in einer belebten Beiz, in der auch viele Familien sassen. Danach brachte ich schnell meinen Rucksack in seine Wohnung in Gaia – von meinem Zimmer aus hatte ich sogar Meerblick.

    Anschliessend machten wir eine Fahrradtour entlang der Küste. Zum Mittagessen waren wir bei Andrés Eltern eingeladen. Am Nachmittag zeigte er mir auf einer Motorradtour das „echte“ Portugal – das Landesinnere.

    Abends durfte natürlich ein Glas Portwein nicht fehlen, und wir gingen in ein traditionelles portugiesisches Restaurant essen.

    Am nächsten Morgen frühstückten wir wieder in einer Pastelaria. Danach erkundete ich die Stadt.

    Dienstag war dann schon mein letzter Tag in Porto. Mein Bus nach São João de Aires fuhr um 15 Uhr. Zuvor verbrachte ich noch Zeit in einem gemütlichen Café und entdeckte ein charmantes neues Viertel voller netter Restaurants und kleiner Cafés.
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  • Day 111

    Porto I.

    March 27 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Porto, eine Küstenstadt die bekannt ist für ihre prächtigen Brücken und den hier hergestellten Portwein. Gleich zu Beginn unseres Besuches verliebe ich mich, bei einem Gang über eine der vielen Bogenbrücken, in diese große Stadt mit den kleinen unregelmäßigen Häusern. Wir schlendern durch die Gassen, bewundern etwas Kunst und probieren auf jeden Fall Portwein.
    Portugal ist heute einer der größten Sardinen-Exporteure weltweit und selbstverständlich finden wir auf unserer Tour auch in Porto einen speziellen Laden. Hier bekommt man sogar Sardiniendosen mit seinem Geburtsjahr. Sehr touristisch halt, aber trotzdem schön.
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  • Day 3

    PORTWEIN & PONTE DON LUIS

    March 24 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Heute ging es für uns noch einmal durch Porto, bevor es dann morgen weiter Richtung Süden der Sonne entgegen geht. 🌤️
    Gestartet sind wir in ein paar kleinen Lädchen und sind gen Mittag auf dem Markt Bolãho gelandet, auf dem wir leckeren Käse (und einen, der etwas nach Ziegenstall geschmeckt hat) und Wein probiert haben. 🍷🧀

    Ein weiteres Higlight heute war die Ponte Dom Luis, die mit 385m Länge in 60m Höhe einen beeindruckenden Blick über Porto und Vila Nova de Gaia (die Stadt auf der anderen Seite des Douro) bietet. Die Brücke wurde von einem Schüler von Gustav Eiffel erbaut und erinnert von der Bauweise auch tatsächlich etwas an den Eiffelturm. 🌉

    Anschließend ging es noch zu einer Portwein Verkostung in der Weinkellerei Burmester (ja, ein deutscher Auswanderer). Wusstet ihr z.B. dass Portwein durch Zufall entdeckt wurde, weil der Wein auf dem langen Weg von Portugal nach England im 19. Jahrhundert immer süßer wurde (durch die Gärung)? Wir durften dann einige Gläser probieren - und hui, das war nicht ohne 😅🍷

    Morgen fahren wir weiter nach Aveiro und Coimbra.
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  • Day 1

    PORTO

    March 22 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Und los geht’s! Wir sind in unsere zweiwöchige Portugal Rundreise gestartet und gut in Porto angekommen. Begrüßt hat uns die Stadt mit Regen und Wind, aber das soll sich in der nächsten Woche zum Positiven ändern ☀️🇵🇹

    Los ging es gestern mit einem Rundgang durch die historische Altstadt von Ribeira und einem leckeren Essen an der Promenade 🐟

    Heute sind wir durch die angeblich schönste Buchhandlung der Welt (Ansichtssache) geschlendert, haben uns den Sangria schmecken lassen und haben ganz Touri-like eine Führung durch den Palácio da Bolsa gemacht (Na, wer entdeckt das sächsische Wappen an der Wand? 😅). Zum Schluss gab es noch eine Flussfahrt über den Douro durch die 6 Brücken von Porto - hinein in den Sonnenuntergang. 🌇🌅
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  • Bikeboxen sind reserviert

    May 27, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Wir werden gleich im ersten Bikeshop fündig und können alles klarmachen. Wir dürfen die Fahrräder am Freitag nachmittag bringen und sie packen uns die ein.
    Den Rest vom Tag machen wir sightseeing mit den Fahrrädern und so wir eine kleine Radtour daraus. 28km sind es wieder geworden.Read more

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