Portugal Vila Nova de Gaia

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  • Day 19

    Day 16 - Patience

    April 21 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    "Adopt the pace of nature. Her secret is patience." –Ralph Waldo Emerson

    After a restless and frigid night in an unheated auberge, started walking early in the rain, of course. But we soon stopped for hot tea and I made a trip to the pharmacia next door to get eye drops for the conjunctivitis (Pink Eye) I now have. It could be caused by the cold I’m still battling or I touched a contaminated surface. There was no communication challenge with the pharmacist, as I approached her she looked at my eyes
    and said ahh and went and got eye drops for me

    The rain cleared around 1p but the paths were now quite muddy and slippery. A particular down hill slope was quite challenging with the boulders and rocks. But we made it from Grijo to Vila Nova de Gaia. And to our surprise we are only 1.1 miles from our Porto accommodation tomorrow where we will join Arlene’s husband, sister, and sister-in-law

    Little things can really boost your spirits on the walk: a beautiful setting, nature’s beauty, a kind foreigner wishing you a Buen Camino, and running into pilgrims you met on the path earlier. Today we ran into Manu from France who we had shared an auberge with earlier and La from South Korea who sometimes we are ahead of him and other times he is ahead of us. He has the biggest smile and relies heavily on his translator to communicate. When he saw us taking a break 1/2 way up a steep hill, he was so excited to see us and took a short break with us to rest his knee

    Tonight was a fabulous Portuguese dinner and I had the Picanha again. Delicious. Of course I may be biased having eaten only ham, cheese, and butter sandwiches since leaving Coimbra.

    I am now snuggled in my bed in a private room and have taken all my meds. This peregrine is crashing for the night!
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  • Day 21–27

    Easter on the Camino

    April 20 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    It rained on us again, or is it still? But it was a bit warmer and the rain was not as drenching, so that was good. Jayme is beginning to improve though you might not believe it to hear her cough. I am holding steady, no better, no worse. With the report out of the way, let me tell you about my day.
    It was a fairly easy walk today which left lots of time for observation and reflection. And being Easter morning, it was hard not to think long and hard about my religious faith, which has been pretty much non-existent for a long time. If you know me, you know i am convicted in my spiritual beliefs. But today, religion was everywhere, and I had not a single negative thought. It was really, really nice to feel that long closed door crack open a bit. It started with nearly every single business being closed down, shops, whole malls, restaurants, pharmacies, even gas stations. This country is all about allowing the people to worship something other than making the next dollar. And the people do! We are not quite positive this actually happened since neither of us speak Portuguese, but Jayme greeted a man this morning saying "bom dia". Normally people will respond in the same way and then offer a "bom camino" or "bom viage". But this guy started to speak to her as if he were admonishing her. We both seemed to understand that he did not think she should be walking on the Camino today, but should instead be in mass. Anyway, it seemed the whole country was decorating their houses, all dressed up and out visiting , eating Easter dinners together, and yes going to mass. The sense of community around this day and its traditions was palpable.
    On my walk today, I must have passed dozens of shrines on lawns or built into the walls of people homes dedicated to Mary. And there were three chapels built in her honor, just on our route alone. And when I went to mass this evening (yes I did) they began the mass to the Risen Lord with a procession and blessing with incense and song to her.
    The church was packed, barely a seat to be had at a 7pm mass when I would have expected most people to be in front of the TV or too full from dinner to get up and out. But, it truly seemed the whole town was there.
    Somehow, in that sea of worshipers, we stood out. Immediately after the mass was over, a young man named Pedro approached me and offered to tell me about and show me around the actaul church and give a bit of history and some info about the procession. It seems that for hundreds of years the youth of the parish volunteer to go to every single home in the parish and announce that Jesus is risen. They carry poles with crosses and are welcomed by the people they visit.
    I loved the spirit around this shared belief in Jesus. I'm not sure I'm ready to rejoin, but I do admire the way they all join in community and celebration of a shared belief.
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  • Day 18

    Day 15 Part 2 - Easter Mass

    April 20 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    "The great gift of Easter is hope." — Basil Hume.

    Tonight the gentleman who looks after the auberge encouraged us to go to mass at the cathedral in the Grijo Monastery and I’m glad I did.

    The Monastery grounds are ~2,000 years old and the cathedral that was built to replace the original is ~600 years old. The church was beautiful and while the service was in Portuguese, it was moving.

    After the service a young man named Pedro introduced himself and asked if we were pilgrims. He gave us a brief history of the cathedral and monastery.

    Happy Easter and may the world find peace in these turbulent times.
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  • Day 20

    Gijo

    April 4, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    It was an uneventfull walk to Gijo today. It was only 19 km's, and only 16 km's for tomorrow to get to Porto. Doing 35 all at once looked like too much. Especially since it was mostly road walking. It seemed like every house that I went by today had barking dogs. (See video) Most of them looked like that's all they have done there whole life. Tonight there are just 2 of is. A guy from Uruguay, and I. We went to get something to eat at a place recommended by the hospitalero, and it was excellent. Anyway, Porto tomorrow and the start of what is said to be the best part of this camino.Read more

  • Day 22

    Day 18 SJDM - Grijo

    September 26, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Day 18 - Sao João de Madeira to Grijo
    Tuesday, September 26

    Started at 7:14 am. Finished at 11:25 am. 18.8k/11.7m. Walking time 3h39m. Steps 23,966. Calories 868.

    Not much happened today. Other than walking on pavement. Walking along a very busy, noisy two lane highway and trying to cross the highway without a crosswalk or light.

    Did a short day because there is no accommodation between Grijo and Porto and definitely was not going to walk 35+k.

    Staying in Albergue S Salvador for E10. One of first to arrive, so had choice of room. Surprised there was an option of 2-bed or 6-bed rooms. Aimee and I chose the 2-bed room.

    Enjoy the journey. Photos have captions. Bom Caminho.
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  • Day 7

    Walking Day 4

    September 17, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    Malaposta (Residential Solar) to Grijo Albergue.
    Another short stage. We got away a bit late, I woke up with a headache and the weather was terrible, raining and windy. It rained pretty steadily until we stopped for morning tea, then mostly dry until we reached Grijo.
    I had left behind somewhere a walking pole and went back a km or so to look for it. Unfortunately didn't find it, and in the meantime an Australian pilgrim got ahead of us and got to the albergue just before us. He took the last room with two beds, and we are in a room with six beds. Missed it by that much! There are now (5:13pm) two Canadians also in the room. So our first night in a dorm style albergue with bunk beds. Tomorrow about 17km to Porto.
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  • Day 17

    Etapa 13: Grijó

    January 20, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    I have been calling Alburgues ahead of time so that I can make sure they are open. The person answering the phone for the Grijo Alburgue really didn’t seem to speak English but did mention something about a form and that they would send me a WhatsApp message about it.

    I never did get the form, but when I arrived I completely walked into the wrong building that turned out to be a bar and asked for the Alburgue. They pointed me to the back of a house where the check-in would be. When I knocked, a 7 year old girl answered the door and called for her mom that there was someone here for the Alburgue. I provided my credential and information while in their living room. I think I’d pretty clearly interpreted some kind of gather because there were 4 young kids running around and a group of older men all talking together.

    I did get into the Alburgue though! And saw Lee. The two of us went to dinner together and a dish that in the English menu was called ‘cod with cornbread’. I’m not sure exactly where the cornbread was, but it was super tasty!

    After dinner, Lee offered me some different kinds of South Korean candy that were all ginseng flavor. It was a very unique taste, but probably not going to be a new Halloween favorite for me.
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  • Day 1

    A morning in Porto

    May 6, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    We spent the morning in Bolhão, a part of Porto with a nice market and the famous Confeitaria do Bolhão where we had a nice meeting with friends. Now we left with the bus for Coimbra where we will spend mother's day with Alejandro. We will soon return to Porto when we pass this beautiful city on our camino portugués.Read more

  • Day 20

    Day 17/6 Oliveira de Madeira to Grijo

    May 20, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    When we checked into our hotel yesterday afternoon, we were pleased to learn that it was four star rated AND breakfast was included in the room rate.

    As a result, The Core Four took full advantage of the "free" food and, by the time we completed our Uber ride, didn't arrive back in Sao Joao de Madeira to start our walk until 8:45.

    The day started out at 18 degrees and slowly crept up to 27 by the time we arrived at our destination in Grijo. The walk today had an elevation gain of 268 meters, considerably less than yesterday, and a distance of just 19.69 kms. In pilgrim terms: a relatively easy day.

    We spent most of the day walking through residential neighborhoods, but, to add some spice to our trek, on our first rest break at about 7kms, the cafe owner offered us some delicious cinnamon toast to go with our coffee.

    We also had various periods following the ancient Roman road, which somehow always brings me to reflect on how many others have trodden these same cobbles as I.

    At one point, we came across a group of bikers who were leaving their mark on a metal wall simply by writing on it with a finger, and I felt obliged to do the same.

    We arrived in Grijo shortly after 1:00 and took an Uber into Porto so that we can enjoy the charms she has to offer while we overnight here today and tomorrow.

    One of these charms that had Brenda salivating all day was a gluten-free bakery that offers GF Pastel de Nata. However, when we arrived at the shop, there were no Pasteles to be found! Forrunately, we were told a fresh batch would be ready within the hour, so we decided to go for an early dinner. Of course, dining in Europe before 7:00 is out if the question and two vegan restaurants we tried to patronize informed us they were closed until 7:00

    We ended up dining in the first place we found that offered a vegetarian burger and some typically delicious fries before returning to the GF bakery for Brenda's dessert. Although the crust didn't live up to the standard puff-pastry crust, Brenda thoroughly enjoyed the treat.

    We capped off our evening with a round of drinks on an outdoor patio with Anita and Ernie.

    Tomorrow we pick up where we left off in Grijo and will enjoy one more night in Porto before moving onward.
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