Portugal
Braga Airport

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  • Day 231

    Braga / Le Bom Jesus do Monte

    December 17, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Ben nous voilà au Portugal. Nous sommes au camping municipal de Braga qui est sympa avec peu de monde. Nous avons profité cet après-midi d’aller visiter Sanctuaire du Bon Jésus du Mont. Nous avons emprunté le funiculaire, qui fonctionne avec de l’eau, pour y monter. Vraiment sympa avec une jolie vue.Read more

  • Day 297

    Bom Jesus do Monte

    November 7, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Zur Wallfahrtskirche kommt man entweder zu Fuß über 600 Stufen oder man nimmt die einzig noch funktionierende antriebslose Schwerkraftbahn. Hoch sind wir mit der Bahn gefahren. Die Bahnen werden durch Schwerkraft bewegt. Sie sind waagrecht auf einem Wassertank montiert An der Bergstation wird der Tank des dortigen Wagens mit Wasser gefüllt und nach der Ankunft in der Talstation wieder geleert. Der somit schwerere abwärts rollende Wagen zieht den durch den leeren Tank leichteren auf dem anderen Gleis bergwärts.

    Dann ist man oben. Bom Jesús do Monte ist einer der wenigen Wallfahrtsorte Portugals. Umgeben von ganz vielen Blumenbeeten und Wald.
    Die Treppenstufen sind mit Statuen verschiedener Heiliger bebaut. Und jetzt kommt Wikipedia zum Einsatz:

    Das Highlight der Wallfahrtskirche sind die barocken Treppenanlagen, die dich nach oben führen. Sie sind in drei Abschnitte unterteilt, die für sich eine eigene Bedeutung haben. Von der Escadória do Pórtico geht es zur Escadório dos Cinco Sentidos – der »Treppe der fünf Sinne«. Fünf Springbrunnen stellen die fünf Sinne des Menschen dar. Der Escadório das Três Virtudes – die »Treppe der drei Tugenden« stellt den letzten Abschnitt dar und führt dich auf den Vorplatz der Kirche.
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  • Day 5

    Day 5: Pedra Furada to Vila Boa

    October 24, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Well, I lived through the night at the creepy guesthouse and had an easy walk today, only 11 kms. Rain was forecast for the afternoon, so I was glad to have a shorter walk today. I even had time to stop for a Thai massage in the cool little town of Barcelos before the rain started. Man was that a wonderful massage! My legs and feet were so happy to get a little love. ❤️
    Tonight I am in a little albergue, a guesthouse for Camino pilgrims, called Alojamento Flora (€20 for room w/ bathroom down the hall), just a couple of kilometers past Barcelos. The host is wonderful and made me a delicious bolognese pasta dinner (€10). I’m the only guest again, but fortunately they live here so it’s not as creepy as last night. 😂 I’ve been a little surprised at how few pilgrims I’ve seen in the past two days (like just one guy yesterday). There were definitely more pilgrims on the coastal route. I think it’s a little late in the season and there aren’t as many people walking the Camino right now. Honestly, I’ve been fine walking by myself, and spending quiet evenings alone. I usually talk to my family in the evening and write these reflections, so I haven’t felt lonely. I’m staying in another small family run albergue tomorrow night, but after that, I might try to stop in bigger towns to see if there are other pilgrims to compare notes with. 😊
    Foot report: My feet felt a little tender in a couple of spots today. I will probably use some tape on those spots tomorrow. I did use lambswool under my toes today, but that area really isn’t bothering me at all. After my massage, my legs are feeling pretty good. I’m ready to take on the 15 or so kilometers tomorrow!
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  • Barcelos Day 2

    September 23, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    I was going to take a side trip to Braga today, but no. Especially babying the knee. I did laundry, bought some Voltaren at the Farmacia and some snacks for tomorrow’s trek. Wandered around, took some pics. Broke down in tears, fought back a panic attack, mailed a couple post cards and sat in companionable silence with a woman and her dog. She asked if I was cold, I pointed to my sweatshirt tied around my waist. We both sighed and yawned, marveling at the beauty of the day, unable to speak more than the simplest words, yet connected to some kind of magnificence.

    Inner journey: I can make myself nuts over doing the simplest new thing. I can spend an inordinate amount of energy circling around what ifs. And then I can find my heart and breath and all is well again. It takes a little time and a lot of intention, and pretty flowers and a scruffy dog help too.
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  • Rest day in Barcelos

    September 22, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

    Boy I needed the rest. I don’t think I was as physically ready as I thought I was. But then I didn’t really know what to expect even after watching a zillion You Tubes. I’m not going to focus on pain so I won’t mention that. Just happy to have advil.

    I slept in, got breakfast, went back to bed. There’s a Middle Ages fair going on across the way. Biggest Ren Faire I’ve ever seen. I ventured out to find some recommended sites, try some local food, not just pilgrim meals— typically cabbage soup, a plate with some meat and 2 starches and a little lettuce and tomato salad. So with the fair, lots of places were open today, Sunday.

    One of the churches had a sign about today being Pax day (I think). So I’m imagining all my prayers for peace, written on my insoles, spoken through my lips and felt in my heart, being magnified by prayers all over the world. Yes! Yesterday while I was waiting for a taxi, a white dove lighted on the light pole across the street, just long enough for me to notice. Its a sign, I say.

    The inner journey— honor my timing and my limitations. My body knows better than my thoughts and ambitions.
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  • Vila do Conde to Barcelos

    September 22, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Foggy start. Sooo glad my travel planner taxied me to San Pedro de Rates because traversing that highway in this soup would have been treacherous. At least the fires seem to be managed.

    Sun came out by 10:30 and it was a lovely day meandering through farmland, small villages, walled roads. My love/hate, mostly hate, relationship with cobblestones was severely tested. I found my mantra, “may I be blessed on cobblestones”. It works for walking. And the courteous drivers of the cities were replaced by Grand Prix drivers taking blind curves at top speeds. More than once I pressed against a moss-covered wall to continue to be 3 dimensional. I guess for those villagers, the only good pilgrim is a flat pilgrim.

    Its corn harvest season here. I watched one family at work. Teenage daughter yanked ears off stalks and heaved them into the already mowed (?) area. Tweeny son acted petulantly instead of picking up ears. Papa ran the stalk mulcher. Uncle drove the truck to wherever corn stalk mulch goes, a good bit blowing on to the side of the dirt road.
    Smells of fermenting corn stalk mulch, manure fertilizer being added to overturned earth, one pungent dairy farm. And the oh so lovely eucalyptus groves and pine trees.
    Sounds of pigeons, doves, farm equipment, roofing tiles being hammered, cars roaring over cobblestones, and pubs with soccer games on the tube.

    For my inner journey, I felt that what I needed came to me. A cafe for a pit stop, a trash receptacle, a quiet place to pee, a stone to rest on, a restaurant with friendly people who spoke English, a perfect place to wait for a taxi. I used to think that I couldn’t get what I wanted but maybe that’s not true. Tuning inward, the wants are simpler.
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  • Day 17

    Day 5 - Apúlia to Barcelos

    September 19, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    We said good bye to the Coastal Route and Ubered over to the Central Route. This will give us a chance to see the other part of the Camino Portuguese and some of Portugal 's oldest cities.

    We took the day off from walking and hung out in Barcelos (mostly at their GIANT outdoor market, one of the largest in Europe) and at a hotel (hurray! No shared bathroom!).

    The rooster is all over Portugal but the story originated in Barcelos. They looove their rooster! https://www.visitportugal.com/en/node/139480#:~….
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  • Day 8

    CP Day 5 Ponte de Lima

    September 14, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    So sorry for not posting until now. It’s been kinda hectic these past couple of days as my body adjusts to the grind and exhilaration of daily walking on the Camino.

    I injured myself yesterday in the most ridiculous way possible: doing an agility exercise that Bill had mentioned earlier in the day. Silly me. When the fellow pilgrims at Casa Fernada saw me limping, they offered my Tylenol and muscle relaxers. This is the beauty of the Camino: you see someone in need and offer help.

    Happy to say that their remedies worked, and I was able to walk the full 9 miles today with no pain!

    I’ll try and post some pics from today’s lovely walk, and will try and catch up from the past few days later on. Xo
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  • Day 7

    What we didnt expect on the way to barce

    September 13, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 55 °F

    Well…the day became an unexpected challenge. We opted for a route that would take us to the top of a hill where we would have spectacular views of the city below.

    It was a chuff. And we got kind of lost. And I enjoyed every minute of it. (Thanks to the cycling I’ve been doing, I climbed the hill like a champ!)

    Lit a candle for Dora in the church.
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  • Day 10

    Barcelos

    September 8, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Packing up and heading to Barcelos.
    We technically start here, so we are taking an early day, doing some laundry, and trying to reduce our pack weight (so, drinking wine and eating snacks, lol).
    We did a little self-directed walking tour once in Barcelos, including: Ponte Medieval (the medieval bridge), we tried to find the gargoyle of the bearded one at Soler dos Pinheiros... but didn't, wandered though the Paco dos Conder (Palace of the Counts, ruins) and through Igreja Matriz at Largo do Municipio square. We saw several of the legendary 'cocks' of Barcelos!Read more

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