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Iceland and Camino
  • Off The Beatnik Path

Iceland and Camino

A 34-day adventure by Off The Beatnik Path Read more
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  • Trip start
    August 30, 2024
  • Off The Beatnik PathIceland and CaminoTraveler
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    Reykjavik

    Aug 31–Sep 2, 2024 in Iceland ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Aug 31, arrived and OH the wind and rain! Not much stops us, so we pick up the rental car, get to the guesthouse, grab our rain gear and head out walking to stave off jet lag. Not sure how far but we walked for a few hours and got acquainted with Reykjavik. We also crossed a few places off our list! (the penis museum requires a separate post, lol) Fly over Iceland, the parts where my eyes were open was great!Read more

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    Golden Circle(ish)

    September 1, 2024 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Waterfalls, geysirs, and caves, oh my!!!
    What a busy day! Perfect last-minute practice for next week (with close to 15 km walked... and hundreds driven). We stopped counting waterfalls (I'm sure that's a song)... here are the highlights!
    Thingvellir National Park - we walked between the tectonic plates, 2 very powerful waterfalls (one that was flooding the viewing platform!)
    Strokkur Geysir - I laughed when all the tourists - including me - said 'ahhhh', so missed the money shot.
    Gullfoss Waterfall
    ....where the Selfoss are we?...
    Seljalandsfoss Waterfall - spectacular! You can walk behind this one and get a bit of a shower! Walking a bit further, and you're treated to an amazing falls in a cavern.
    Fence of Bras... because, why not?!
    Steinahellir Caves - DO NOT pick the mystical ferns.
    Drangshlioll ruins
    Skodafoss Waterfall - I believe this is the one from Game of Thrones.
    Vik - quaint fishing village, with amazing traditional Icelandic fish stew (plokkfiskier) that I had to try (because that's all could serve as the power in the whole town went out right after we ordered)... and the black sand beach... then a long drive back to town!    Read more

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    Road trip to Holmavik

    Sep 2–3, 2024 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Started early-ish... in the rain... again... today's adventure is a road trip to the Snaefellsner Peninsula and the West Fjords. What I thought was a long bridge on the map turned out to be a long tunnel... a 6km tunnel under the Hvaldjordur fjord... a nice reprieve from the rain.. first stop:
    Akraneviti Lighthouse - there are 2 lighthouses, the smaller one built in 1918 and the bigger one currently in use.
    Skallagrimms Buriel mound - the closest thing to a cemetary so far
    Gerduberg Cliffs- basalt columns
    then a crazy hour long drive on a 'secondary' road... which should be the equivalent to say the fraser highway vs Hwy 1... but is really more like a bad forest service road in Canada...virtually all pot holes... and no gas stations or bathrooms anywhere (they DO NOT coddle you here, lol, not one 'check your fuel' signs...).. and finally, we emerge in Holmavik... and head straight to the first bathroom!
    then, The Museum of Witchcraft & Sorcery...🧙🐦‍⬛ amazing little gem with lots of history.
    And finally to our hotel in the mountains for dinner, drinks (yup... licorice beer!) and a bunch of natural hot springs and pool time... even the clouds parted for us! 🖤    Read more

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    The Cave/lava tunnel & Krauma Spa

    September 3, 2024 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Rise and... SUNSHINE! 🌞 fingers crossed for more than 6 minutes today! Up early and treated to an amazing (included) breakfast! (there was mini-charcuterie involved), made friends with the site sheep, and explored the grounds a bit - located the hot springs 'source' and checked the little museum. Then on.tje road to The Cave (Vidgelmire lava tunnel). Yan, our tour guide, was very knowledgeable. He told us about yet another waterfall to check out. This one does not start from a river, but from the drips and melting ice in the lava tunnel... at the waterfalls, it looks like the water is coming from the rocks! (Hraunfossar) ... then on to Krauma Spa... for a dip and to say hi to Yan's girlfriend Niki. (lol... memories of Cathedral Lake... IYKYK)... back to Reykjavik... and with the sun still out, we wander down into town for an iconic Icelandic hotdog (sooo good!)... some licorice icecream... and home for the night... fingers crossed that we see the aurora tonight... its clear out.🤞Read more

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    Last day in Iceland, Blue Lagoon

    September 4, 2024 in Iceland ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Last full day in Iceland!
    Found the cemetary! Sometimes called the Old Churchyard, Hólavallagarður opened in 1838 as Reykjavik’s new cemetery, replacing a burial ground used since Viking times. The city placed the graveyard on a small hill a couple of blocks off the city’s central pond. Some of Iceland’s most famous sculptors, including Einar Jónsson, carved gravestones here.
    We made our way to the Saga Museum to learn about the settlement of Iceland. En route here, we came across the smallest church I've ever seen - there must be only 5 Russian Orthodox people here... lol... well, we're not orthodox, bit popped in to say a pasalom (to survive the Camino and if needed, that uber app works in Europe!)...it's another cold day, thankfully The Blue Lagoon is on the itinerary for this afternoon. 💙♨️ ... need to be up at 3am for the next stage... on to Portugal!    Read more

  • Off The Beatnik PathIceland and CaminoTraveler
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    on to Portugal

    September 5, 2024 in Iceland ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    full and exhausting day of travel, flight delays, and not enough sleep... and wow it's warm here! 💜
    We were so close to 1st class, lol... and don't forget to keep a key card in the thingy on the wall... or all the lights go out!Read more

  • Off The Beatnik PathIceland and CaminoTraveler
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    Porto, Portugal

    Sep 6–8, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    planes, trains, and automobiles loop completed... we took a train from Lisbon to Porto today...arriving at the Sao Bento station - one of the 10 most beautiful train stations in the world with 20,000 hand painted blue tiles of Portugal, 'stumbled' upon our hostel - literally - had some fancy KD for lunch then set out to figure out this maze of a city!
    our self-directed/guided walking tour this afternoon:
    wandering past Jaidim da Cordoaria to observe the strange trees in the garden;
    Torre dos Clerigos and through Park Lisboa (the park is set on the roofs of the shops below;

    Fonte Mouzinho da Silveira
    Livaria Lello, the most beautiful bookstore in the world... with the biggest lineup in the world... you need to purchase a ticket to get in;
    Toreja Das Carmelitas
    on to Avenida dos Aliados and then a stroll to
    the Luis 1 bridge - one of 6 bridges built in 1886, and wandered down to the Casa de Gaia area and Calem port wine distillery and museum. After a tour, we enjoyed a port sampling and Fado show, then walked back across the bridge and UP, UP, UP back to our neighborhood. We stopped at a Ribs joint in the alley near our hostel... omg, super yummy, and the sangria was amazing! snoring by the time our heads hit the pillow! or in my case, by the time i climbed into the top bunk!
    I think I L💙VE Porto! we've met a few pilgrims already and are eager to start 🥾... after 1 more day of rest...and I'll have to make room in my pack for the wine I bought! 🍷... lol...    Read more

  • Off The Beatnik PathIceland and CaminoTraveler
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    Aveiro

    September 7, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    After sleeping in a bit, we continued our self-directed walking tour.
    Imperial McDonalds (inside an old cafe from the beginning of the 20th century still decorated in art nouveau and stained glass)
    Majestic Cafe, walk down Rua Santa Catarina pedestrian mall Capela das Alma's (said a pasalom, lit two candles and had our Compostella stamped)
    Mercado do Bolhão - side trip to a fun market for fresh fruit salad.
    Back to the Igreja dos Carmelitos/ two little windows between the churches which belong to the famous Hidden House used as a secret hiding place for dissident groups to conspire against the ruling political regime/ Igrreja do Carmo.
    Mosteiro San Bento da Victoria (double stair case)
    Fonte Mouzinho Silveira
    Lunch at Cachorra and then a half day tour (Carlos Silva is our guide) to Aveiro.
    First spot Costa Nova fishing village (lagoon side - very cute cottages... it was explained that the people in the village were fishers originally and as such, drinkers. they painted their houses in different colors so they could easily recognize their home after a night out.)
    Second stop, Aveiro. Salt lakes dot the entrance where salt is still harvested. Then, on to a gondola (Moliceiro boat) ride of the canals. Our guide, Alex... was a funny and horrible flirt...lol. A short walking tour of Aveiro, and a stop to taste ovos moles (Aveiro style) egg yolk + sugar in pastry and a return to Porto. On to Barcelos!    Read more

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    Barcelos

    September 8, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Packing up and heading to Barcelos.
    We technically start here, so we are taking an early day, doing some laundry, and trying to reduce our pack weight (so, drinking wine and eating snacks, lol).
    We did a little self-directed walking tour once in Barcelos, including: Ponte Medieval (the medieval bridge), we tried to find the gargoyle of the bearded one at Soler dos Pinheiros... but didn't, wandered though the Paco dos Conder (Palace of the Counts, ruins) and through Igreja Matriz at Largo do Municipio square. We saw several of the legendary 'cocks' of Barcelos!Read more

  • Off The Beatnik PathIceland and CaminoTraveler

    Camino, Day 1 - Casa de Fernandas

    September 9, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Camino, day 1.
    31,120 steps... 20.58 kms... made it to the much regarded Casa Fernandas... greeted with snacks, wine, and applause! This is a fun hostel... book early if you want to get in! Fernanda is a wonderful host.... Karina, from Germany, coined the phrase 'no vino, no camino'... so how could we resist a cup. it's a great social event! (and we're laying low because we're exhausted!).Read more

  • Off The Beatnik PathIceland and CaminoTraveler

    Camino, day 2 - Ponte de Lima

    Sep 10–11, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Camino day 2
    # of blisters: 3
    # of times birds have pooped on me: 1
    # of times figs falling from trees have beamed me in the head: 1
    21 004 steps.... 14.073 kms today
    we've met some fabulous people-and only 2 days in! Today, we walked mostly through fields - grape, corn, and small villages... I think only one cafe the whole way. A lovely and peaceful day on the trail. We encountered many small alters along the way, and kind folk offering fruit. Tomorrow is a tough uphill slog - I think the hardest day we will have... so no vino tonight! Early to bed and lots of foot care! Still in love with Portugal 💙 Bom Camino!Read more

  • Off The Beatnik PathIceland and CaminoTraveler

    Camino, day 3 - Rubios

    Sep 11–12, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Camino day 3
    # of blisters: holding steady at 3... (but I'll likely lose a toe nail)
    # of times birds have pooped on me: 1
    # of times figs/items falling from trees have beamed me in the head: 2
    # of le squishies found Le squished: 7
    (cumulative counts)
    28,701 steps.... 19.23 kms today

    We made it up and over... The Alberge in Ponte de Lima was beautiful, I could have slept for days! I didn't... we woke up early, enjoyed breakfast, and hit the road, crossing a medieval bridge and finding a fun camino stamp guy who rang the bell for us! It was uphill (both ways!), and we ran into the South Africa group and the German group again, met some new pilgrims, and just kept walking... very few stops with water or facilities today! And we made it! Tomorrow is a brand new day! and we'll take a rest day after that. Still loving Portugal 💙 Bom Camino!    Read more

  • Off The Beatnik PathIceland and CaminoTraveler

    Camino, day 4 - Tui, Spain

    Sep 12–14, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    # of blisters: 4, toe nail is pending...
    # of times birds have pooped on me: 1
    # of times items falling from trees have beamed me in the head: 3 (1 fig, 1 pinecone, 1 Japanese walnut)
    # of le squishies found Le squished: 7
    (cumulative counts)
    30,589 steps....21.06 kms

    Today was mostly flat for a change! We ran into team Brazil and were able to share the way for a bit with them. Plus, I get great shoulder massages from Persio! I feel almost normal, except for my feet!

    We left Rubiaes earlier than usual, and I think as tiring as that it, it makes a big difference in your day. Barb says this is the more civilized section with a cafe nearly every 5 kms! lol. Barb, Antonio, and Persio ALL stop for puppies... so this adds time onto our day... and a bit of laughter.

    Before leaving Portugal, we decided to detour a bit and walk through the ancient walled city of Valencia... then through what felt like a maze of dark dungeon tunnels before reaching the bridge to cross into Spain.

    The city of Tui is a UNESCO historical site, and we're taking a rest day here... foot care and laundry! we MIGHT get out and see the city a bit tomorrow. 💙 when in Spain, it's Buen Comino now!    Read more

  • Off The Beatnik PathIceland and CaminoTraveler
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    Camino-day 5, rest day in Tui

    September 13, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    steps/kms.... who's counting... maybe, like, 4... we really did rest! Laundry and foot care, a little jaunt to the grocery store for a small lunch charcuterie plate, provisions for tomorrow... then more rest....its wonderful to not feel guilty when resting, it was a beautiful day with a lovely breeze, our room was on 2nd floor and opened onto a huge terrace - with doors and windows open it was just fantastic! We chatted with the host, who told us this property was gifted to the San Clemente family by the 12th pope. In the 20th century, the family returned most of the property to the church, and some very rich person in Florida purchased this plot and bought the statues that are in the courtyard. LOL, Barb was being a caring big sister and booked it because she thought it looked like a cemetary- and I would think that was cool.... lol... it still is! 💙 we popped out for dinner and was thrilled to run into Melissa! a pilgrim we met in Porto! And staying at the same hostel! we visited a bit, then to bed... early day tomorrow.
    Temperatures are supposed to be hitting 30 to 32 C in the next few days - this reprieve was much welcome! Back on the path tomorrow. 👣💙    Read more

  • Off The Beatnik PathIceland and CaminoTraveler

    Camino, day 6 - Porrino

    Sep 14–15, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    # of blisters: 5... toe nail is pending...
    # of times birds have pooped on me: 1
    # of times items falling from trees have beamed me in the head: 3 (1 fig, 1 pinecone, 1 Japanese walnut)
    # of le squishies found Le squished: 7
    (cumulative counts)

    22, 340 steps...16.35 kms today

    The weather was supposed to hit the 30's today... so we got an early start... like, in the dark! lol... walking with cellphone flashlights to avoid tripping and to ensure we stayed on the path! Only 2 cafés on this route...grateful we had provisions for snacks along the way. My new blister is a bad one... I'm going to name him Balthazar... I don't want to say that it was a boring walk day, it was a utilitarian walk day, a day of purpose to get to the next stop. We're now about 103 km from Santiago and must keep going to get our Compestellas. (Unless my foot falls off! - grateful for canadian health insurance! I think mine covers prosthetics... lol)
    Sometime around km 4, I started hearing this music and kept asking Barb if her phone was ringing or an alarm ringing! Shortly after, we passed a spot called Cruz de San Telmo, also known as the bridge of Fevers (Ponte des Febres), and the music was louder! At this spot, San Telmo fell sick and died of a fever in 1251 on his way back from a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compestella. As we walked a bit further and rounded a bend, 2 gentlemen were playing bagpipes along the route! The perfect spot for a haunting melody. 🎶 The rest of the way into Porrino was less enchanting (think long stretch of asphalt). We checked in 1 minute early at our hostel... rested a bit and went out to 'hunt' dinner... we ran into Vy, shared a beverage and grocery shop - then a stop at the farmica for more bandaids... home for dinner and another early night!
    Still loving the journey... 💙🥾 Buen Camino!    Read more

  • Off The Beatnik PathIceland and CaminoTraveler

    Camino - day 7, Redondela

    Sep 15–16, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    # of blisters: 5, Balthazar is brutal!... toe nail is pending (i taped it good and am too afraid to look, lol) ...
    # of times birds have pooped on me: 1
    # of times items falling from trees have beamed me in the head: 4 (1 fig, 1 pinecone, 2 Japanese walnut - Barb threw one at my head today so i could update my count... it hurt!)
    # of le squishies found Le squished: 7 (not as popular in Spain apparently)
    (cumulative counts)

    24,007 steps.... 17 kms

    We started early again today... our hostel was off the track a bit, and as we back-tracked to the path, we came upon 3 youngsters (lol... listen to me! early 20s, I would say)... who were literally just going home from what appeared to be a great night out...(one was still carrying a drink!), they stopped to ask if we were doing Camino de Santiago... when we said yes, they gave us quite an outpouring of drunken love! ❣️
    Mos was a lovely little village where we managed our first coffee of the day and even a little store, so i was able to get new bottoms for my poles.
    We had a very gradual incline today and managed it well. (Balthazar was behaving). But oh man! that downhill! I couldn't capture it in a picture... my crackling knees tell the story! We came upon Vy again - feeding his lunch to a dog! lol. what a kind soul... and a quick walker (he left quite a bit after us and clearly passed us somewhere... lol).
    We arrived in Redondela a bit early - so stopped for a cold beverage. I love that they give you a little snack as well... very tasty, even when served by Mr. Cranky-Pants! lol. Our afternoons are usually the same... shower, nap and hunt for food - we're ready to eat dinner at go to bed by 7.30 here... nothing opens till 8pm... time to get creative! 💙 Buen Camino!

    Also, when you see a 'face in hole' you HAVE to participate! 🤣    Read more

  • Off The Beatnik PathIceland and CaminoTraveler

    Camino, day 8 - Ponteverda

    Sep 16–17, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    # of blisters: 7, Balthazar has been tamed for now.... toe nail is pending 🤞...
    # of times birds have pooped on me: 1
    # of times items falling from trees have beamed me in the head: 4 (1 fig, 1 pinecone, 2 Japanese walnut)
    # of snakes: 1 🐍
    # of times tripping over my own 2 feet: 1
    (cumulative counts)

    32,369 steps and 21.91 km

    We're kind of enjoying starting in the dark... It's cooler, fewer people on the trail (to start anyway! - Barb still stops for puppies... I stop for any photo opportunity-real or imagined!) and our cadence is slower than most... but we still get it done!

    Our first stop for Cafe Leche and snacks was about 6 kms in today at A Fillado Mar - I'm getting used to amazing coffee! Shortly after, we strolled over a historic stone bridge over Ponte sampaio. The current version was constructed in 1795 over earlier foundations - it was here where local militia inflicted a serious blow to Napoleon's troops during the War of Independence. We would have to remove our boots to swim in the sea, so we carried on. lol. 🥾👣 Much of the route today was asphalt, and we were lucky enough to have some time roaming through vineyards, and blessed to have had a farmer call us into his property and give us some super yummy grapes for a snack! 🍇 We took a break at the Fonte Figueirido.

    Some very interesting beverage and food stands along the route... in the middle of nowhere, it seemed. We got some fun stamps today, including a fancy (or, elegante) wax seal! I'm grateful not to be injured, just sore (this could have been when I accidentally butt dialed my past manager at work... lol... sorry 'bout that!) and still loving the journey! 💙 Buen Camino!    Read more

  • Off The Beatnik PathIceland and CaminoTraveler

    Camino, day 9 - Caldas de Reis

    Sep 17–19, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Sept 17th, Camino day 9

    # of blisters: back to 3, (Balthazar and 2 minors) the others have started to turn to calluses (toe nail is pending (still afraid to look, lol) ...
    # of times birds have pooped on me: 1
    # of times items falling from trees have beamed me in the head: 5 (1 fig, 1 pinecone, 2 Japanese walnut and an acorn)
    # of le squishies found Le squished: 8
    # of le squishies found alive: 1
    # of snakes: 1 🐍
    # of times tripping over my own 2 feet: 1
    (cumulative counts)

    33,045 steps... 22.24 kms

    We left Pontaverda in the dark... although it felt a very slight bit lighter today, and a bit chillier to me... autumn is settling in here - I'm loving finding pumpkins and squash decorating old stone homes! We walked 9kms before our first coffee of the day, stopping in San Mauro to enjoy fresh squeezed orange juice, cafe Leche and that amazing Santiago almond cake!

    Lots of walking today with few cafés. We made it to Caldas de Reis a bit earlier than expected... nice since we have a rest day tomorrow! After a shower and nap, we went out for dinner, but first, we stopped to bathe our feet in Fuente de Las Burgas - the thermal fountain where famous hot water fills the bath ( the other side is ice cold!) then to Cafeteria Termas for an amazing dinner! I'm so in love with the simple salad here, the tomatoes and fruits are exquisite... or I'm just really hungry by the end of the day. lol. I had Padron Peppers with chicken and salad... and a heavenly sangria - Barb had the same but with octopus! Another amazing day on the trail! 💙 Buen Camino!    Read more

  • Off The Beatnik PathIceland and CaminoTraveler

    Camino, day 10 - rest day

    Sep 18–19, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Sept 18th, Camino day 10
    Rest Day... greatly needed! As it turns out, I did injure my foot a few days ago, and was really grateful for a rest day! We spent half the day napping (lol) and the other half at Acuna Hotel where, for a small fee, you can use the thermal pools and hot tub...oh sweet relief! For a few extra euros, we treated ourselves to a 30 minute visit to the spa and the massaging jets in the jacuzzi (neck, shoulder, back, calf and foot!... amazing). I felt closer to normal after that, and strangely, like a synchronized swimmer!

    Caldas de Reis is crossed by the river Umia and known because of its thermal waters whose composition gives them healing properties. A really charming little town with cobbled streets and interesting points, such as the thermal spring of Las Burgas. In the center of the town is located this curious fountain from which hot water flows, some would even say that burning (the other side is ice cold) We also visited the Roman stone bridge, as well as the cross that is next to it. 

    We dined again at Cafeteria Termas with Ginny from Chicago (who we met earlier in the day) it ended up being a bit of a late day... thanks to some excellent sangria! 💙👣 a wonderful rest day!    Read more

  • Off The Beatnik PathIceland and CaminoTraveler

    Camino, day 11 - Padron

    September 19, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    # of blisters: nothing new! back to 3 (toe nail is pending (still afraid to look, lol) ...
    # of times birds have pooped on me: 1
    # of times items falling from trees have beamed me in the head: 5 (1 fig, 1 pinecone, 2 Japanese walnut and an acorn)
    # of le squishies found Le squished: 8
    # of le squishies found alive: 1
    # of snakes: 1 🐍
    # of times tripping over my own 2 feet: 1
    (cumulative counts and this ends tomorrow)

    30,893 (+ 137 x 2 for Barb) steps... 20.40 kms today....

    We left Caldas de Reis in the dark, over the Roman bridge and quickly entered more rural paths. There is smoke drifting up from Portugal into Spain from the fires - pilgrims in Portugal have been advised to not walk for a few days. Barb is tracking at least 5 Camino puppies and fed a horse today (we have to use up the apples somehow!) Walking was a bit easier today and I'm confident that I can complete the path and make it to Santiago tomorrow. The route gets busier as we get closer, other routes merge into one and sometimes it feels like battling a line up at Disneyland.

    First stop for coffee and snack was at Folgar do Peregrino. We then went off the beaten track for lunch - and what a great idea! Casa Chavez made the most incredible veggie and egg sandwich - the eggs from their hens and the veggies from their garden - these were almost a foot long! and the price!!! 2 sandwiches and 3 drinks were just 11€!!! It was too much so became part of dinner!

    The day was cool and we made better time than expected, so did a bit of extra sites before checking in. Padron is the legendary starting point of the James ministry in Spain and the subsequent return of his mortal remains after his martyrdom in Jerusalem. We wandered past Fonte de Carme just below the imposing Convento de Carme, a most incredible view from the balconies here (although the church and convention cannot be entered).

    Another visit to our favorite market, Froiz, for salads and fruit... we have our last day tomorrow... 25+ kms to complete and that means an early start!
    💙👣Buen Camino!    Read more

  • Off The Beatnik PathIceland and CaminoTraveler

    Camino, day 12 - Santiago de Compostella

    September 20, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    The count was to stop today, but... # of blisters: back to 3 + 1 new one today :(

    We made it!

    39, 506 steps and 26.87 kms to reach the cathedral, Santiago de Compestella. 

    We got here in time to have our pilgrimage confirmed, our last stamps, our credentials received, and our certificates issued! What an incredible journey!  We also ate well today... lol. We joke a bit that this is also something of a foodie tour!  Stumbled upon a BBQ right around lunchtime... once arrived and after a shower and nap - a way too big dinner! (we seriously are not good at ordering in Spain! I've had padron peppers three times and am just in love with their salad!).

    We are formally finished our Camino journey,  however are traveling to Finesterra tomorrow and to Muxia for a bit of a trip....and now a nap!
    💙🥾 Buen Camino!    Read more

  • Off The Beatnik PathIceland and CaminoTraveler

    Day trip to Finisterre and Muxia

    September 21, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Because we just cant get enough, let's get up early and take a bus trip to Finisterre (the edge of the world) and Muxia (where legend has that the virgin Mary traveled by stone boat to help James spread the word about Christianity).

    First stop was an old port muros a traditional fishing town.

    Then to Horreo de Carnota - I'll do another post dedicated to the history of the horreo (pronounced oreo, btw... lol) the one we stopped at is the largest in Spain and the world! It's built in baroque style and dated to 1768, it is 35 meters or 115 feet long (this one belonged to the church so had to store the grains and cereals that the church produced and the expected 10% tithe/tax from the citizens).

    Then Fervenza de Ezaro at Mt. Pindo, a 40-meter regulated waterfall on the Xallas River.

    We had lunch at the fish market in Port of Fisterra... beach glass from Galicia - talk about motherlode!

    We then went to the Cape of Fisterra where the lighthouse sits and where legend has it that there are magic stones that, when you crawl through 9 times, will cure whatever ails you - kidney, back and head. And although we already received our Compestellas, we did get our 0km stamps here. This is also where many pilgrims come to burn their camino socks! (I like my socks, so didn't participate, lol).

    On to Muxio, to wander among the stones and a surprise stop at a small village (population 74) that held the remains of some windmills and Roman walls and bridges.

    12,097 steps today... but it's a rest day, so who's counting? 💙    Read more

  • Off The Beatnik PathIceland and CaminoTraveler

    Santiago de Compestella

    September 22, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Oh boy, did we sleep in! It was good - the weather cleared today, and we made it out to explore the old town, attend the pilgrims mass, do a bit of shopping, and have lunch - Barb finally got her paella!

    Today we get to adjust our backpacks - we leave tomorrow for the beach! I can't wait to hang up my hikers for a few days (and do laundry!).    Read more

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