Portugal
Areosa

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  • Day 12

    Tag 12: Nahezu perfekter Tag…

    March 12 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Strecke: Estela - Carreço, 37 km

    Leise verlassen wir den Schlafraum, um den Kerl mit den 6 Blasen an den Füßen nicht zu wecken und verlassen um 7 Uhr die Herberge Richtung Meer.
    Der Camino wird etwas angepasst, um noch etwas länger an der Küste zu bleiben. Als wir ins Landesinnere einbiegen treffen wir Anne wieder, die letzte Nacht in der gleichen Herberge übernachtet hat. Wir laden sie zu einem Kaffee ein und machen eine der berüchtigten Pausen, die unseren Tag meist deutlich verlängern. Es gesellt sich noch Peter aus GB dazu. Gemeinsam laufen wir weiter.

    Das Wetter ist besser als erwartet. Wir genießen den üblichen Wechsel aus Blödsinn und ernsteren Gesprächen. Der Camino durchzieht heute ein größeres Waldstück, welches weitestgehend aus Eukalyptusbäumen und Korkeiche besteht. Der Weg ist teilweise traumhaft schön.

    An einem Fluss machen Alex und ich Pause. Essen geklaute Zitronen und ein paar Snacks, Alex geht sogar baden.

    Gegen Mittag kommen wir Viana do Castelo an und machen nach 26 km eine längere Mittagspause. Anne, Peter und ein paar andere stoßen dazu, doch es wird leider Zeit, Lebewohl zu sagen: Wir wollen noch weitere 11 km gehen, die Anderen haben ihren Tag beendet. So ändern sich die Menschen momentan täglich, mit denen wir zusammen laufen. Das macht das Ganze abwechslungsreich, gleichzeitig ist das Abschied nehmen manchmal auch etwas traurig. But thats part of the camino…

    Die letzte Etappe gehen wir am Meer entlang und rätseln über die Magie, die es auf den Menschen ausübt. Es sind wunderschöne Stunden.
    Gegen 17:45 Uhr erreichen wir die Herberge in Carreço, die eine der schönsten hergerichteten Herbergen ist, die ich bisher kennengelernt habe. Morgen stelle ich Fotos ein. Alte Steinhäuser, viel Liebe zum Detail, viel Platz. Die Atmosphäre forciert einen förmlich dazu, gemeinsam eine Flasche Wein zu öffnen. Zusammen mit Salina verbringen Alex und ich den Abend und wenn wir uns weiterhin gut benehmen können, will sie morgen mit uns starten… Wie schön :)
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  • Day 12

    Day 4 - Esposende to Anha

    April 15, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    We covered 13 miles of a very different walk today. Moving inland from the beach a couple of miles put us in a different world. It changed from boardwalks on the beach to mountain trails and quiet villages. The path was very much like walking the Galicia region of the Camino Frances. It was cool with a light wind and wonderful smells of the forest.

    A highlight was crossing a river on a simple bridge in the middle of nowhere, it was a beautiful spot that felt magical.

    Once we came out of the forest we had a nice stroll by some churches and then a stop for a “Pilgrims Meal” at a small bar. Then to our Albergue (hostel) to recharge, wash clothes and prepare for tomorrow. Another amazing day!
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  • Day 12–13

    Santa Luzia de Viana do Castelo

    December 11, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    Nach unserem Länderwechsel wollen wir in Viana do Castelo noch auf den Berg zur Kirche Santa Luzia. Heute will ich nicht bergauf laufen, deshalb nehmen wir die Seilbahn. (wann bietet sich schon mal so ein verlockendes Angebot‼️) Bergab wollen wir dann einen Wanderweg entlang der Levadas runter spazieren. Wie so oft war auch dieser Weg nicht wirklich ein Spaziergang. Denkt komoot eigentlich wir wären 2 junge Bergziegen⁉️🥴 Egal - der Weg war wunderschön und wieder nur durch Eukalyptuswald.🥰 Zur Belohnung für den 11km Spaziergang! gab's wieder Tapas😋 und eine wunderschön weihnachtlich geschmückte Altstadt. Diese Illuminationen kann man kaum toppen und überall hört man Weihnachtslieder aus Lautsprechern, die in der ganzen Stadt installiert sind. Wir sind etwas überwältigt von so viel Adventsstimmung. 🤩Read more

  • Day 5

    Caminha Pt 2

    September 22, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    What a day, what a day.

    After another night of restlessness, thanks to a few winners in the hostel, I was up early today (like real early) and on the road before the sunrise. My plan was to get to Caminha, which I was able to do, but it was a long day on the road. Unfortunately, there really is a race to find a bed at the next stop, as all of the pilgrims from the central Camino have migrated to the coast due to the wild fires. Thankfully, I've booked something ahead of time for tomorrow.

    Being a bit of a competitive person, I have a difficult time stopping or resting because then I have to watch people pass me on the trail. This means I also don't stray from the trail to find a washroom, and I only stop when it presents itself. Today, there were no such washrooms, and after 10+ kilometers on the trail, I was getting desperate. At the top of a trail in the forest, with no one visible behind me, I found a little space behind a rock on the left side of the road. I put my stuff down, did my business, and when I stood up and turned around, there was a couple sitting on the stone wall directly across from me. Normally, I would be mortified, but at that moment, I just laughed, put my stuff back on, and said, "Buen Camino!".

    Tomorrow, I begin my trek inward, leaving the coast to connect with the central route. In 24 hrs, I will be halfway through my journey, and in 48 hours, I will be in Spain!

    31.2 kms + 56 flights of stairs
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  • Day 5

    The Labyrinth

    September 22, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Walking the Camino is a bit like walking in a maze, but without a centre. You just walk on and on and follow the little yellow arrows to the best of your ability. I got lost this morning when I was leaving the city because the damn arrows were pointing in every direction. Who knows how many added kms I've put on an already long day.

    Most of the time, you see the arrows pointing the way, but sometimes you see a big yellow X, which clearly means do not go that way. The number of times I have said to myself, "If she'd have gone that way, she would have gone straight to that castle!" is absurd. Thank you, David Bowie🫶

    Hopefully, 8-10k more to go today. And I've decided, cobblestone streets were the devils doing.
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  • Day 4–5

    Viana do Castelo

    September 21, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    When I woke up this morning, I was tired. Even though I had been in bed since 9pm the night before, sleeping in a hostel keeps me awake half the night. Even with my eye mask and ear plugs, I definitely don't get a full night's sleep. C'est la vie.

    The first 5k was, well, shit. Walking up and down tiny cobble stone streets over and over again, I was really getting to the point of, "I'm too tired for this today." But then a tiny little café appeared in the wall, and after practically running inside (running, ha!), I got a pilgrims coffee and cookie for 1 Eur and got to pet a cat. It changed my mindset for the day.

    I left the shop feeling much more myself and then low and behold, I turned a corner, and I'm heading into the forest. The real forest! I actually said out loud, "This is what I came for!". I spent probably two hours alone, walking/hiking a path that reminded me very much of the Na'apali coast in Hawaii. I was honestly thrilled and excited to be in the trees and working my body harder than I had the first 3 days. This was the best part of my walk so far.

    I met a man in the middle of the woods. He didn't speak any English, but he offered me a coffee and told me to follow him down the path. Just around the corner, a tiny shop appeared with fresh fruits, coffee, trinkets, and other things. He gave me a coffee and a nectarine but wouldn't take my money. I asked if I could make a donation, and he pointed to a box and said, "Okay." I gave that man 5 EUR.

    Little did I know, I would spend almost 3 hours going up through the woods, and then another hour going up the (damn) cobble stone streets again. This was the hardest part of my walk so far. Clearly this part of the journey is more difficult on people than other parts, because you not only encounter the coffee man like I did, but you will also find random bottles of water in the ditches and farmers offering you fresh fruit. It's pretty incredible how the locals look after you on your journey.

    Life lessons on the Camino so far:
    1. Never pass up the opportunity to use a washroom.
    2. Always stop to pet the cats.
    3. If you ever come upon a mountain in your life (figuratively or literally), just start climbing. Don't think about how hard it will be, don't think about what is at the top and don't think about what's on the other side, because on the other side could be an even bigger mountain, or it could be a valley that goes on for miles and miles.
    Take your time, allow yourself to rest, but keep climbing because you can't live there.

    22.3 kms + 83 flights of stairs
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  • Day 3–4

    Day 3: Esposende to Antas

    September 17, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Simple Simon day! We walked ~6miles today to Antas Guest House. It has a beautiful, private backyard with a swimming pool, and we literally had it all to ourselves from 11am-3:30pm today. There were dove coo-ing, calling g to each other, and flying about all day. It was a lovely day of rest that we both really enjoyed.

    Leaving our hostel this morning (first pic), the air was pretty heavy with smoke. Lots of wildfires all around (but no danger to us, just smoke). Still, very sad. Firefighters from 3 neighboring countries have been flown in to help.

    The second couple of pics are of a cool art piece on our way out of town. Tony Gorman, I need you here to act as my historian and deliver the details in a concise manner! We passed a mural timeline yesterday with a lot of people laboring, and it included women doing g all the same manual work as the men. This sculpture captured that too (she's in the very front).

    Took lots of pics along the short walk today, making it take longer than needed. Included is a pic of a little bit of the wildlife we saw along the way in the last pic. 😅
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  • Day 2–3

    Day 2 Cont: Inland & On the River

    September 16, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Once we shifted a bit inland, we walked through a lot of farmland (mostly corn, kale, spinach and some pumpkins), and it got toasty. We, along with quite a few other pilgrims found respite in a cool church - some even realized that the stone on the ground outside the church was a cool relief. Desi and I had to resist the urge to lay down on the marble floor inside the church. 😅

    We then continued on and back toward the coast a bit to our hostel, which was just across from the Cávado River. There, we watched some kite surfers and a gorgeous sunset.
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  • Day 8

    Viana do Costello

    September 10, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

    Today was no joke on the Portuguese Coastal Camino—17 mostly uphill miles from Esposende to Viana do Castelo in the blazing sun. ☀️🔥 Sunburn? Check. Blisters? Check. Exhaustion? Check. But we made it! 💪 Grateful for every step, even the tough ones. Rest day tomorrow to recover and gear up for the next leg of this wild journey. 🛌🌊 #CaminoStruggles #EsposendeToVianaDoCastelo# #RestDayNeeded"Read more

  • Day 6–7

    Day 3 to Viana do Castelo

    August 19, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Day 3 brought us much different terrain from our first two days. Instead of boardwalks and high winds, we walked through small towns, on trails that reminded us of hiking at home, on roads, and across a bridge we weren't sure would ever end. We landed in Viana do Castelo just in time for a city fair full of artisans, music, food, a live band with a bumping bass drum, and fun crowds. A highlight of the day came when we climbed up a steep hill and arrived at a beautiful church named Igresia Tiago. We loved it for many reasons. First, it reminded us of a good friend we call Santiago. Second, we were able to light candles for our loved ones. Third, it had a water station (and I was thirsty!). Last, it had a clean, free bathroom. :) We also stopped at a great place for lunch filled with local men loudly playing cards and kids eating ice cream. It was an awesome place to people-watch and relax. Please keep us in your prayers as we make our way towards Spain tomorrow. I (Tara) have a couple of pesky blisters, and Jack's feet are a bit swollen and very sore. Thanks for reading!Read more

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