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Portuguese Camino
  • Jack Mowreader
  • Jack Mowreader

Portuguese Camino

Coastal Portuguese Route and Spain Trip Read more
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  • Trip start
    August 14, 2024
    Jack MowreaderPortuguese CaminoTraveler

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    August 13, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    We start our Portugal and Spain trip today. The main event is the Camino de Santiago. Here are some facts about our first leg of the trip. We will spend the 14th in the air, the 15th and 16th in Porto and start the Camino on the 17th.

    The Coastal Camino – route overview
    Distance – 270 km/167 mi (if you strictly stick to the official Coastal Route). The distance on the part between Porto and Redondela can vary depending on how much you walk on the Litoral Way vs the Coastal Route.
    Number of days (stages) – 12-15 days
    Starting point – Sé Cathedral, Porto, Portugal
    Finishing point – Santiago de Compostela Cathedral, Spain
    Difficulty level – moderate
    Total ascent – 3793 m (over total distance)
    Total descent – 3551 m (over total distance)
    Walking surface
    162,4 km/100 mi – asphalt/tar;
    29 km/18 mi – cobblestones;
    60,6 km/37,6 mi – footpath/gravel road;
    27 km – boardwalk;
    1 km/0,6 mi – beach.    Read more

  • Jack MowreaderPortuguese CaminoTraveler
    City Hall of Porto
    Tarmac welcome is what you get when your arrival gate is fullCool mural on building in central PortoCamino path marker for pilgrims to followPorto Cathedral- this is our start point on SaturdayView from Cathedral towerCathedral chapel7Francesinha - the local specialtyPortugal is famous for these tiles called AzulejoCool boulevard in the middle of the city. Very Parisian.Douro river and city at night.Sardines are a huge export and are a big thing here. This place was full of collectors tins.Cool view down the city streetsFamous bookstore Livreria LelloFormer university building.Clerigos Church and tower. Highest point in PortoView of the Cathedral on the background and the Douro river valley below.Sao Bento train station. 22k tiles depict the most relevant episodes of Portuguese history.Port wine barrel. Date is the vintage. Must age for minimum 7 years by law. This one says Velho -oldPort wine varieties.

    Porto

    Aug 16–18, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    This is our launch point for our Camino adventure and will get over our jet lag and explore the city over a day and a half.
    Really beautiful and vibrant city. Can easily take 3 or 4 days just to touch the highlights.Read more

  • Jack MowreaderPortuguese CaminoTraveler
    Start of the Portugese Coastal Camino- Porto Cathedral
    Down the stairs in Porto heading to the river.Walking East along the Douro river leaving Porto and heading to the Atlantic.First lighthouse sighting of the dayIt was windy!Second lighthouseRest breakLooking forward to reaching Santiago de Compostela... but we've got a long way left to go!After the first detour, we found a place to stop for snacks and drinks.A lady called out to us from her balcony and told us to turn left. So we did and saw decorated boatsCachorro - a hot dog with ham and cheese in a panini... really goodShrimp on toast pleaseHydrangeas!Camino marker along the routeVila do Conde's massive monastery-the government kicked them out and took it overCod grilled fresh on the coal BBQ in front of the restaurant and then bathed in olive oil.

    Day 1 - Porto to Vila do Conde

    Aug 17–18, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    First day on the camino, leaving Porto Cathedral and heading to Vila do Conde. We walked for roughly 22 miles alongside the Duoro River and then the Atlantic Ocean on boardwalks and cobblestone streets. We saw beaches, endured some significant winds, ate fresh seafood, took a couple of detours, and couldn't wait to lay our sore bodies down at the end of it all!Read more

  • Jack MowreaderPortuguese CaminoTraveler
    Our hotel for the night...
    This is Vila do Conde, where we stayed the first night.This is me, looking like the hunchback of Portugal. :)Tara loved this couple with the shirt off, the tan and the animal print pants!Walking the boardwalk along the beach. Half of the time today we were right against the Atlantic.1Beach volleyball on the Atlantic1Quick rest in the woods.2Along the route there are yellow arrows showing the way. This one is especially huge!Walking into Esposende. It's a really pretty town.2Looking for a place for dinner. Meal times are very important to Jack. :)Welcome to Pilgrims from the city of Esposende4Tara wasn't sure if this was enough food. This is a spin on the Cachorro I had but with sauce2Portuguese liquor. Wasn't bad. Much better then Becherovka from Czech.1Tara and the beautiful sunsetHere's a shot with our roommate Jemesh (sp) from Slovenia. He was so nice!

    Day 2 to Marinhas

    August 18, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 70 °F

    Day 2 was great! We nursed our very sore muscles (we were definitely too ambitious on our first day), hobbled onto the Camino, and headed north. As we walk, we head directly into the wind with the sun at our backs. It's nice because the wind cools us off. But it also resulted in both of us getting pretty good sunburns on the backs of our legs and necks! So today, we did a better job applying sunscreen. :) We met and walked with an awesome couple from the UK, said Bom Camhino (good camino) and bom dia (good day) as often as we could, and tonight, we are sharing a room with a gentleman from Slovenia who works as a surveyor. One interesting observation about Portugal is that people here are really into exercise and are very tan. They have gym-type equipment at the beach, power walk, run, play beach volleyball, soccer, and cycle. I took a picture of a couple powerwalking past us to share. Hope you enjoy it!Read more

  • Jack MowreaderPortuguese CaminoTraveler
    There are so many cool Camino markers along the route. The shell is symbolic of the Pilgrim's route.
    Our lodging last night was right next to a gas station and convenience store.1No need for a gym membership. They have exercise equipment available for all.2First bridge of the day in the woods.This trail reminded us of home (minus the yellow arrows telling us where to go!).1The local beer is called Super Bock and is yummy. But our lunch stop had an IPA from home!Neverending bridgeOur hotel is super close to the festival :)

    Day 3 to Viana do Castelo

    Aug 19–20, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Day 3 brought us much different terrain from our first two days. Instead of boardwalks and high winds, we walked through small towns, on trails that reminded us of hiking at home, on roads, and across a bridge we weren't sure would ever end. We landed in Viana do Castelo just in time for a city fair full of artisans, music, food, a live band with a bumping bass drum, and fun crowds. A highlight of the day came when we climbed up a steep hill and arrived at a beautiful church named Igresia Tiago. We loved it for many reasons. First, it reminded us of a good friend we call Santiago. Second, we were able to light candles for our loved ones. Third, it had a water station (and I was thirsty!). Last, it had a clean, free bathroom. :) We also stopped at a great place for lunch filled with local men loudly playing cards and kids eating ice cream. It was an awesome place to people-watch and relax. Please keep us in your prayers as we make our way towards Spain tomorrow. I (Tara) have a couple of pesky blisters, and Jack's feet are a bit swollen and very sore. Thanks for reading!Read more

  • Jack MowreaderPortuguese CaminoTraveler
    There are so many beautiful churches here.3The hydrangeas here are ginormous!Look how tall this door is!Headed to Caminha- which is very close to the border of Spain.So nice when the sky is clear and we can see the ocean. :)Our afternoon cafe/ snack. I had a sandwich and Tara ate gelato: strawberry and mango were bueno.They have the coolest signs and statutes marking the way.It gets super windy by the coast!It's so beautiful and we are grateful to be here.DinnerIt's hard not to take a bazillion pictures!I love that each town has its own crestThe Portuguese know how to recycleJack's sad feetIncredible sunsetWe are terrible selfie takers, but the background is incredible.

    Day 4 to Caminha -18 miles

    Aug 20–21, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 75 °F

    We took the trek to Caminha today. We are on the river Minho at the top of Portugal. It was somewhat hilly terrain, and then we went downhill to the coast. Highlights are perfectly located cafes and snack shops to get us rested and fueled up; meeting a Portuguese woman with three big dogs who was in the Port wine business in Porto; some young travelers from Porto; two guys from Australia; a two year old pup and his owner; some very windy time along the ocean; an Argentine Air BnB host named Lucas who was very kind to us; and finally a seafood dinner of a tuna steak, fresh crab and chocolate mousse!Read more

  • Jack MowreaderPortuguese CaminoTraveler
    2Where we started today
    View from Caminha, Portugal to SpainSketchy boat taxiEveryone has to wear a life vest- safety first. :)2Entering Spain on a boat taxi1First Camino marker in SpainJack was very excited that everything said Galicia- even the sewer covers!Some day we will make it to Santiago!You guessed it, another beautiful church!Not sure why Jack posted a picture of his thumb, but here it is!Yep, that's me, Jack, and a statute!These markers tell you how many kilometers you have left to go... it's a lot!This is the church with the nice lady who invited us to mass and gave us a stamp.Part of the day we walked on the yellow road shoulder... I called it the yellow brick road1MagicSo a Budha statute is on Jack's left and a chapel is on the right2Cows and bulls by the ocean

    Day 5: Into Spain and O Serrallo- 12 mi

    Aug 21–22, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Today, we finished our Portugal leg and ventured into Spain. This is my (Jack's) 39th country, and it took way too long to cross Spain off the list. We went to the grocery store for some breakfast food, then boarded a somewhat sketchy boat to taxi us to the other side of the river. Once we landed, we headed back north and a little west to get back to the coast. It was up and down over a ridge, and we got some really good time along the Spanish Atlantic coast. It took a little adjustment to now use Spanish. We both said thank you in the wrong language or forgot to change Bon Caminho to Buen Camino as we greeted other Pilgrims. It is very nice to greet people using "hola" and much easier for us to communicate here. One highlight is we met a German lady from Hamburg and we kept switching from English to German to Spanish while speaking to her - it was comical.

    Other highlights are the beautiful coast with horses and cows, a meditation space with water, and a beautiful church with a nice lady who gave us a stamp on our pilgrim credentials and invited us to stay for mass (we prayed and then left before the service). We met two girls from Bamberg, Germany, which is close to where we lived in Bavaria and also met two girls from Venezuela and England. We didn't see a ton of other pilgrims, but some to say hi to.

    My ankles were feeling much better today. I figured out my socks were too tight at the band, and they were cutting off the circulation. I cut my socks and felt like a new person. I hope the swelling and redness go down soon. We have another fairly light day coming up, so we hope to get healthy. Tara has a couple of nagging blisters and sore shoulders and back. But we found this stuff called Star Balm (kinda like Biofreeze, but you spray it) at a pharmacy, and it's magic. It makes your skin tingle and smells like Vick's Vapo Rub. Most of all, it really helps with muscle pain. Tara is a big fan. :)

    We had to make the brand switch on our drinks from Portuguese to Spanish. Estrella Galicia is the local beer, and there is a local cider that was pretty good. See you all tomorrow, and thanks for all of the prayers for our health. I think tomorrow we will be getting back closer to full strength. We have just under 100 miles to go!    Read more

  • Jack MowreaderPortuguese CaminoTraveler
    139.800 km remaining (87 miles) to Santiago. Over half way!
    People leave stones and momentos on the trail. This one is well wishing pilgrims from the locals.1A friend from GermanySheepA nice couple we met along the wayCool church in Baiona. We typically stop to pray and offer a lit candle for loved ones ❤️A metal pilgrim we found in a traffic circleThis bridge was built in the 13th century.2Pollo a la plancha hit the spot!Our smiles are a little bigger at the start of the day :)Tara's bloody toe after banging into a rock on the beach1Here, people get fresh bread delivered to their door. Yes please!The hydrangeas here are so big and so pretty!Playa America did not disappoint!

    Day 6: On to Nigran - 13 miles

    Aug 22–23, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Today, we walked North along the Atlantic and curved west along the coast, then north again to Nigran. Apparently, the beach here is the best in Galicia.... Highlights along the way were some nice break points at a cafe, a roadside stand, and a tapas restaurant. We ran into a German lady for the second day, a girl from Latvia, 3 girls from Bulgaria and Marta (Spain) and Anton (Russia).
    We did a little less mileage today as we are in a vacation spot, and the Tour de Spain bicycle race is taking place, so accommodations are hard to come by and more expensive than we hoped. We have been making reservations a day or two in advance and liking that comfort, but we may be rolling the dice here soon and staying in "alburgues" or hostels for pilgrims. They are first come, first served, so we may change our tactics. Today we started at 8:30 and it was nice to check in at 4 pm after eating our big meal of the day.

    Tara's input: The good news is that Jack's feet look much better today. The bad news is that while walking down the rocky shore to put our feet in the Atlantic last night, I slipped, landed on my backside, and really stubbed/cut my toe. I'm a knucklehead! Thankfully, a small first aid kit and a night's rest made it feel good enough to walk on. :)

    The second piece of good news is that we found cheaper ibuprofen at a pharmacy. Ibuprofen is essential to keeping my old bones moving, so I was very excited to find it for half off; so excited in fact, that I sent Jack back in to buy another box by himself, so the pharmacist wouldn't think I have a problem... :)    Read more

  • Jack MowreaderPortuguese CaminoTraveler
    Good thing our packs came with covers
    Smiling after a good breakfastRain? Seriously?Daina, our new friend from LatviaFountain in the park. Jack was a sport to pose for a photo when his leg was hurting.Marker signifying 120km remaining. Getting closer. We broke the 100km mark today.1Cool waterfall in the woods.Vigo football club stadium.2Tara getting some more cardio in. She loves these little exercise parks.Vigo park entranceCokes and free chips! Let's go!Vigo church. I know we post a lot of these but they are all so beautiful.Park in VigoTara's magical automated bathroom.Our reward for climbing a steep hillBroke the 100km mark todayThat is our destination-SantiagoAnother beautiful sunset. All of those floating platforms are mussel farms.

    Day 7 to Chapela- 16 miles

    Aug 23–24, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Guess what we did today? We walked! Shocking, I know. But today we walked in the rain! Jack called it "heavy fog," but it was more than that. Thankfully, it wasn't heavy rain, the temperature was warm, and it subsided around 11am (we started around 8 am). We walked for a couple of hours with a super nice woman from Latvia named Daina. She works as a software developer in the UK and has perfect English. She was really fun to talk to and made the rain more bearable.

    Overall, there hasn't been much elevation gain, but today, we climbed a few steep hills. We also walked through a large city called Vigo. There, we stopped at a cafe for cokes. It was pretty great because they also gave us complimentary chips and filled up my water bottle with some ice. It's the little things. :)

    Jack's right quad started really hurting while we were in Vigo, so we stopped at a pharmacy. The pharmacist helped fit him for a brace, and it helped tremendously. We walked through a beautiful park, saw more amazing churches, and landed in the city of Chapela. We keep messing up meal times here. Most places close the kitchen between 4-8pm, but we keep asking if we can see the menu. Today, our server felt sorry for us and brought us extra tapas to snack on. She also told us about a local bakery where we got yummy empanadas. Maybe we will get it right tomorrow!

    Okay, one last bit of randomness. While we were in the park, I saw the WC (restroom) sign and was very relieved. As we walked up, we realized it was an automatic bathroom pod! You had to pay to enter and had to finish your business in 20 minutes. I didn't wait that long, but I'm thinking the door automatically opens after that. Could be potentially awkward. :) My only complaint was the lack of TP. Otherwise, it was pretty cool.    Read more

  • Jack MowreaderPortuguese CaminoTraveler
    This bridge reminded me of the Narrows Bridge
    Our basic 65 Euro hotel. Didn't have AC so it was a little warm.Early day marker at 93 km.Another angle of Vidro river estuary and the mussel platforms2Wild boars crossing the road. Looked like soldiers crossing a danger area one at a time. 😂Yep, we were wet!The view when it rains.... nada1Tara leaving a rock se carried from the coast. Praying for loved ones. 😍So many cool memorial spots along the routeHorse friend!We have less than 70km to go!Church in RedondelaRedondela inside : beautifulRedondela church choir practicing.So the first slot is for mail and the second is for BREAD (pan)!This one is for Ryan!We are staying at a nice place tonight...

    Day 8 to Pontevedra - 17 miles

    Aug 24–25, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Today was pretty great! We woke up to the sound of a rooster crowing. I actually feel like we heard a lot of roosters today in the towns we walked through. It's like they were greeting us or something!

    Next, we saw a family of wild boars run across the trail in front of us. First, there were two full sized boars, followed by 6 babies who ran across one at a time. We didn't want to make Mama Boar mad, so we just stood there and watched each one scurry across. Jack got some of it on video, so please check it out. :)

    Next, we happened upon a church where they were having choir practice. We stayed and listened for a while, and it was really special to hear the ladies singing hymns in Spanish. It reminded me of going to church in Guatemala.

    We knew rain was in the forecast, and this time, it was NOT heavy fog. It lasted for over an hour, and we were pretty drenched once it stopped. Thankfully, the sun came out and dried us up.

    We stopped for cokes after the rain, and this time, we got complimentary olives, not chips. Jack was pretty happy (I am not an olive fan). We also ordered some cheesecake. Yum.

    The next highlight was getting to feed a pretty horse an apple we bought at the market. Jack cut it up, and I gave it to her. She seemed to enjoy it.

    We landed in Portevedra and planned the last 4 days of our journey. We are going to take the "spiritual variant" so tomorrow we will go to a monestary. We are really looking forward to it.    Read more

  • Jack MowreaderPortuguese CaminoTraveler
    Pontevedra is a really cool city. It was quiet on a Sunday morning.
    Pontevedra Church2Breakfast. Huge chocolate pastries and coffee/ juiceHow fun are these?!Pontevedra river bridgeOur morning route marker. Under 70kmOur first Spirital Variant path marker.Another path marker. They are pretty cool looking.These signs mark the way for the spiritual variant route.We did some steep climbing today.Monestary1Moneatary #1 with hydrangeasHorreo in town. They stored grains from animals and humidity. They are pretty cool .More climbing.And occasionally resting. :)The name of our lodging reminds us of our favorite place to stay in Santiago, Guatemala.

    Day 9 to Armenteira- 13 miles

    Aug 25–26, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Pontevedra (where we stayed last night) was full of other pilgrims as we left the city. It's so interesting to listen and try to figure out where everyone is from.

    However, once we hung a left towards the "variante espiritual," we were mostly alone for the rest of our walk. The spiritual variant follows the journey of St. James's remains to the church where they are kept in Santiago de Compostela. This route is a little longer than the coastal route and includes a boat ride.

    Today, we did a lot of climbing and walking through beautiful forests and small towns. It's just what I needed as my heart is really heavy about a loved one. It was nice to be away from cars, people, and busy cities and just get to spend time praying and hanging out with Jack.

    We took a break at monestary built in 942 AD, and the town we are staying in also has a monestary. They do a pilgrims' blessing at 7 pm every day, and it was very cool. There were about 15 nuns and a priest who sang, read scripture, and prayed a blessing over those walking the Camino in German, Italian, French, Spanish, and English.

    We are so grateful to be in this beautiful country and for the ability and strength to walk each day. We are blessed. I can't believe we have only three days left.    Read more

  • Jack MowreaderPortuguese CaminoTraveler
    The entrance to the monestary at the start of the day.
    One of the many crosses along the wayFirst marker of the daySo pretty!More waterfallsOne of several mill houses along the wayAnother mill house. I think there were 10 or more along the stream using the water powerSlug #1Slug #2Rest break along the river.A crest from the city. Each city and region has it's own crest and is displayed throughout the townFriend photo at a small chapelVilanova port areaShells decorating the side of this house in VilanovaPost dinner photo. Note Tara and I have a "Dinner Uniform " one nice set of clothes we don't walk inSmall chapel in Vilanova

    Day 10 to Vilanova de Arousa

    Aug 26–27, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    Today was the second day of the spiritual variant route, and it was mostly downhill and next to the water, which was amazing! We started the day with a great breakfast (did I mention how important meal times are to Jack?). Then we walked through the forest, saw old mill houses and waterfalls, checked out some ginormous slugs, and greeted people who were out exercising and walking their dogs.

    At lunchtime, we connected with a couple from Sweden and a lady from New Zealand. They were very nice, and we ended up spending the rest of the way to Vilanova de Arousa walking and talking with them. When we got to town, we stopped at a market for ice cream, drinks, and a bag of ice. Best snack ever! Also, there is nothing better than ice cold water after 15 miles of walking!

    We had dinner with our new friends and I tried fresh octopus, Galician style. I've only had it fried before, so it was different, but pretty good!

    Tomorrow, we will take a boat at 8am to Padron along the route they carried St. James's remains. Once we get there, we will spend the remainder of the day resting before our last day on the Camino tomorrow.    Read more

  • Jack MowreaderPortuguese CaminoTraveler
    More crosses
    Mussel farming. Very interesting how they grow and harvest.Sunrise over PadronA cross along the route of St James (Santiago in Spanish)Old fortification. I think they said it was to protect from Vikings.Windy boat ride!In the back of the boat with our friends from SwedenGoodbye to our walking friends. They kept going and we rested today.Getting some laundry donePilgrim's lunch. Tara had cod and I had a pork chop. We also tried caldo (soup) Gallego.Depiction of Santiago's disciples bringing his body home from Palestine to SpainPadron Church. It reads, "I am the Bread of Life" on the altarMonestary in PadronCity botanical gardenPadron has a bunch of these little squares with cafésReally cool fountainThis is a rock formation where Santiago (James the Apostle) preachedDepiction of James giving water to a Gentile woman

    Day 11 to Padron

    Aug 27–28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    We started today with an hour long boat ride that supposedly follows the route taken by two of St. James's disciples with his remains on the way to give him a proper burial in Santiago. Our first stop on the water was at a mussel farm. I'll be honest, I had no idea that mussel farms even existed until a few days ago, and I had no idea how they were harvested. This is my lame attempt at how it works. The mussels grow for 16 months on thick ropes. Workers then raise the ropes up and pull the mussels through a strainer into a basket. The basket is hoisted up, and then someone else sifts through the mussels. It was actually really cool to watch. The bay we went through had over 2,000 platforms.

    Our next stops were at a series of 13 crosses along the route. Each cross has Jesus, Mary, and St. James (and occasionally a seagull as the topper). Some were on islands, others were on the shore. We also saw a viking ship from Danish conquests from long ago. Apparently, they have a festival every year. Our boat operator made sure to tell us it was a pagan festival, not a Christian one. Very thankful for the clarification. :)

    Once we landed, we only had a short walk to our hotel (maybe 2km). We couldn't check in right away, so we went to a local laundromat. Never have I been so happy to smell clean socks! Washing them by hand in hotel sinks just doesn't give you the same level of satisfaction. The worst part is our bags are getting pretty funky from the shoulder and waist straps and will need a good cleaning when we can hang them up for a day to dry.

    After check-in, we rested, had an amazing meal, and then did some sightseeing in Padron. The town of Padron is an area where St James preached after Jesus sent him out to Evangelize. There is an area on the hill where James supposedly preached, hid from Roman authorities, and also created a water spring from rock. There are several sites to view and scenes in the church of St James. There is a cool Monestary and some statues around the town.

    We are geared up for the last 16 miles tomorrow into Santiago. We hit the grocery store to make breakfast and lunch so we can get going right away. Yesterday, 3,600 pilgrims finished their trek, so the town will likely be busy. We are excited to finish and complete our journey. Our legs and feet are doing OK and pray they will take us the rest of the way. About everything is tired and sore, so it just depends on the day, what is causing the most pain. We are thankful for ibuprofen, Voltaren, compeed, toe protectors, and Vaseline.

    Love you all and will post when we hit the Cathedral.

    Jack and Tara    Read more

  • Jack MowreaderPortuguese CaminoTraveler
    The Cathedral of St James- Santiago de Compostela
    Cool shadows in the amA church on the path: Igrexa da EscravitudeInside Igrexa da EscravitudeTara leaving a prayer rock along the wayCool place were we are walking.When we went under 10k to the finishFirst glimpse at the spires of the Cathedral. They are in between the two red roofs.A gate on a house on the path to Santiago. Really cool shell design.Less than 5k to go!Shell on the street in Santiago marking the way!2Weaving our way through the foot traffic with the Cathedral in sight.Cathedral of Santiago de CompostelaThese are our credentials that we picked up in Porto and stamps at hotels and stores along the way.

    Day 12: Santiago de Compostela - 16 m

    Aug 28–29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    We made it and have certificates to prove it! What a tremendous journey with so many memories. We finished strong and pushed through some aches and pains to get to Santiago. Today was unlike any of our other days. Although our path is the third most popular route, it didn't seem crowded - until today. It was a sea of people from the time we left Padron to our arrival at the Cathedral. There was one time that Tara and I outclimbed everyone up a steep grade (we are really fast just grinding up hills), and we had a little solitude. It was more like a parade for 16 miles.

    Highlights:
    A couple of miles in, there were two guys who were playing bagpipes and an accordion for the pilgrims as we came by. It was very festive and we also felt bad for the neighbors. I could hear it a long way off.
    One good point about the crowded route was that there were lots of cafés and stands with drinks and bathrooms. We took advantage of that to avoid looking for places in the woods.

    We stopped at a small chapel, and the town name was Milladorio (Mirador in Spanish is a viewpoint). There was the first time we could see the city and the spires of the Cathedral. We contemplated how previous pilgrims would have felt seeing it and knowing they were getting close.

    We got our official pilgrims certificate. They recognize the official routes, but we took some unofficial variants that added another 7 to 9 miles to the trip. Officially, 280km = 173.6 miles in 12 days. We estimate closer to 180 miles. Today, we were the 1460 and 1461 pilgrims to finish. It will likely be over 2,000 pilgrims from all over the world. We saw youth groups, tour groups, singles, couples, and all variants in the square. We sat in the shade gazing at the cathedral, resting our tired bodies and observing everyone celebrating the finish. It is a special opportunity.

    Tonight we will go to the pilgrim's mass at 7:30 and grab a late dinner.

    Thanks for coming on our journey!    Read more

  • Jack MowreaderPortuguese CaminoTraveler
    Recovery of the Botafumeiro a the end of the session
    North side of the Catherdal (original pilgrims gate)Convent on the back side of the CathedralSouth side of the Cathedral and where the gate has been repeatedly vandalized by city inhabitantsSantiago's disciples bringing his remains to SpainFountain in square near CathedralUniversity buildingOnly remaining gate of the original wallCity view with our friend CariMain altar of the CathedralCathedral organ there is a matching set of pipes on the opposing wallDon't know what this is but looked cool with the crown and chi rho symbol.Entrance to a small chapel that pre dated the Cathedral and was consumed by the Cathedral walls.Main altar far down the aisle.Cathedral stained glassSide chapel altarThe official ground zero point for all of the pilgrim routes to the city.

    Recovery Day: Santiago

    Aug 29–30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Today, we did a rest day. Last night, we had a great mass at the Cathedral and dinner with our New Zealand camino friend Ceri.

    A highlight is the pilgrims' evening mass where many of the 2000+ pilgrims that finish during the day come to mass at the chapel. We went 45 minutes early and could only find one seat in the pew, so I sat on one of the column bases. It was packed. The service was mainly in Spanish and had the pilgrim blessings in English, Italian, Portuguese, and German. They had communion and only gave out the bread. It was interesting to see people from all over the world coming to take the wafer from the priest in their own traditional way, kneeling, asking for the bread in their hand or mouth, or just getting a blessing. The unexpected main event is the Botafumeiro. I had never seen this in person, but there is a large silver urn type incense container that gets lowered by rope, and the priest puts burning incense in the container. They claim that it is the largest in the world. They have 8 guys that pull the ropes, and then a guy I will call the 'designated athlete' swings his body and hurls the container overhead to one side. Then the rope pullers in rhythm pull in the ropes, and it launches it back and forth across the two side transcripts of the cathedral. We were on the side, and it looked like it swung 40 feet in the air above us while smoking out incense and filling the room with smoke.

    One of the nuns was singing along with the organ, and it made it quite a cool spectacle. Evidently, they have not been doing it often due to cost, but if you pay 600 euros, they will do it during the mass. We presumed one or more of the groups paid to have it done.

    Tara took a picture at the very end that you can see, but they told us not to video or take photos, so I kept my phone in my pocket. I counted at least 50 others with their phones out, so I will share a link where you can see the event play out. It was impressive and quite a blessing to see this unique tradition. I guess they had all of these smelly pilgrims, and this practice not only constituted a sacrifice of a fragrant aroma to God but also counteracted the not-so fragrant aroma of the pilgrims. We can relate.

    https://youtu.be/rsrqkYQvpr4?si=-9qw_oI8AYdZ3WX7

    Today, we slept in and licked our wounds before heading off for a walking tour of Santiago. It has some cool history, and we learned some interesting facts. One fact is the city has just about 100,000 inhabitants. During the school year, the city adds about 35k university students. Tourism from the pilgrims, university students, and the government (it is the Galicia capitol) make up most of the city's base.

    After lunch with our friend Ceri, we went back inside the cathedral, shopped, and did laundry (since we only have 3 sets of clothes, we do laundry a lot!), and prepared for our early flight to Barcelona.

    Goodbye to Galicia, and hello to Catalonia.    Read more

  • Jack MowreaderPortuguese CaminoTraveler
    This is what it looks like at 5:40am when you walk on the tarmac to board your flight
    Paella! We had to do chicken because Jack can't do shellfish...We went to a park where you could rent boats but it was so crowded it was more like bumper boats!They have big giant palm trees hereThe America's Cup challenge is in BarcelonaSo much beautiful architecture!The Metro is awesomeEntrance to La Sagrada FamiliaThese pictures really can't capture how beautiful it wasThey are still working on one of the towers

    Barcelona Day 1

    Aug 30–31, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    We made it to Barcelona this morning and marked our first trip on Ryanair. We got to the airport at 4:30 am for a 6 am. flight, and things went well. We did the tarmac loading through the backdoor. I think we had a plane full of first-time fliers, or this is the way Spaniards fly. We had line cutters, close followers, aisle rushers, etc.... We extended lots of grace and patience.

    We were able to check in early to our hotel and had an awesome nap before heading out to the Picasso museum and La Sagrada Familia. Both places were amazing! Picasso lived and studied in Barcelona when he was young, and it was very cool to see his earlier works, learn about the people who influenced him, and see how his art changed over the years.

    La Sagrada Familia (Sacred Family) is a huge church that is the most beautiful basilica I have ever been in. It is literally breathtaking! It's not gilded in gold with cherubim everywhere. Instead, it's filled with beautiful stained glass and amazing sculptures. The designer was Gaudi, and he focused on the holy family and incorporated nature in the construction to highlight God's power as the creator. For instance, the columns are different types of trees, and there are leaves above the entrance. The basilica is actually still under construction and is supposed to be completed in 2026. Gaudi left models for future generations to continue the work. We highly recommend that you go if you're ever in Barcelona!

    Other highlights include figuring out the metro system, which is super convenient. On one of our rides, we saw an older lady holding a dog that is the same breed as Piper. We were awkwardly smiling at the dog, and the lady looked at us like we were crazy. Jack pulled up a picture of Piper on his phone and showed it to her, and everything changed. :) We chatted in Spanish about how old Piper is, and she told us she has 2 Havenese pups.

    We also ate our first paella in Spain (yum!) and had some spicy Indian food. Tomorrow, we will go see a Barcelona football (soccer) game. Jack is pretty excited about that!    Read more

  • Jack MowreaderPortuguese CaminoTraveler
    We sat pretty close to the field
    Proper breakfast... with salad?Our trip to Barcelona wouldn't be complete without a trip to the pharmacy!The churches here have the most amazing stained glassI don't know how to spell or properly pronounce it, but this decor is called "scrafiti".Jack got to be a silent actor during the tour. He's holding a shield.State of Catalan government building. The gold back with 4 streaks of blood to defend the state.Gothic church in the old Roman area of BarcaCathedral of BarclelonaHe couldn't walk fast enough to get to the game. :)Outside Olympic stadiumLots of fans... I think it was about 44,500Barcelona game chants and goalTV screens and good ciderEscalators to the game... who knew Bulls jerseys were so appropriate for the game?City view from the hillWe took the cable car up the mountain and there was an EDM event going on underneath

    Barcelona Day 2

    August 31, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    We really love Barcelona! It's an amazing city with lots to see and eat. :)

    Today, we started the day with a free 2.5-hour tour of the Gothic square of Barcelona. If you haven't taken a free tour before, you should! It's not really free because you tip your guide at the end. But you choose how much you think the tour is worth (and we have always had great experiences). Today's tour was full of history and interesting facts about Barcelona. The city is in Catalunya, an area of Spain with a long history of kings, queens, conquests, and struggle. Catalunya has its own language and flag, and many people here want independence from Spain. If you're interested in hearing more, let us know, and we will happily bore you with additional details.

    After the tour, we did some souvenir shopping and looked for a new shirt for Jack to wear to the Barcelona game. :)

    The game was great. It was a blowout (Barcelona won 7-0), but it was so cool to experience the fans and traditions of La Liga football (soccer). It was held in the Olympic stadium because Barcelona's stadium is undergoing renovations. It's interesting because everyone is pretty controlled before, during, and after the game. You are not allowed to stand up during play (unless you are in the Supporter section), and everyone is really watching and engaged. You are allowed to stand after goals, so we got to stand a lot since the score was so high! They don't sell alcohol inside the stadium, and there is a lot of security. They also have a smoking section inside. It kind of reminded me of when there were smoking sections on planes and one row was non-smoking, and the next was smoking. Here, the smoking section was open and just a few feet from the food line. Overall, it was a very cool experience, we had a blast, and I had a very happy soccer-loving husband.

    I have (Jack) decided I need to pick a team and since we walked by the Celtic Vigo stadium , my LaLiga (Spanish League) team is Vigo. I got a Barca jersey for the game but I gotta go for Vigo.

    After the game, we walked back towards the hotel and found an Irish pub that had TV screens so we could watch more soccer. Yep, can't ever have too much for Jack Mowreader. :) We were the only ones there for over an hour (we arrived just after 8pm). Things really start happening late at night in Spain. So as our old bodies were leaving around 11:00ish, the place began to fill up. At least we had very attentive service. :)

    Tomorrow is our last full day here, so our plan is to make the most of it. Ciao for now!    Read more

  • Jack MowreaderPortuguese CaminoTraveler
    Breakfast of champions! A croissant filled and topped with Nutella!
    Park GuellSteep walk up the hill to the parkEscalators help...Vegetation brought in from throughout the Mediterranean by GaudiDragon fountain at the entrance to the park. Have to slay the dragon to get to ParadisePark Guell welcome housePark Guell security keeper houseView of Barca and the see from terrace at Park GuellYou can see La Sagrada Familia in the background with the construction craneView from another part of the parkChristopher Columbus pointing to the new worldCool Boulevard along the waterfrontNew Zealand America's Cup race boat with sail down docking at the team HQView from GondolaView of port and cruise shipFort at top of Gondola

    Barcelona Day 3

    Sep 1–2, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    The last day in Barcelona and the last day of our vacation. We started the day at Park Guell on a hill overlooking Barcelona. It was quite a haul up the hill from the subway. You can see the stairs and even an escalator set. We have had a couple of sets of escalators here in Barcelona and they have been nice perks. Park Guell was a community designed for the elite and encouraging connection to nature in a suburban setting. It was a bold plan designed by Gaudi (same architect as the La Sagrada Familia). It was ahead of its time and had great paths and design. It was purchased by the city and is now a UNESCO heritage site.

    After that, we had lunch down toward the water and checked out the Americas Cup (sailboating) competition. We just missed the race between the US and New Zealand (we lost). We checked out the pier where the kiwis had their boat and looked at some of the team merchandise.

    After that, we took a ride on a funicular tram to a cable car ride up to the top of a mountain that overlooks Barcelona and the Mediterranean. Part way up, we heard bumping music and saw a big crowd. On the top was Casello Montjuic, an old Army fortress. We toured around and took pictures. It was an awesome view. On the way down, we got off on the stop with the music to check it out. You had to have a ticket, so we couldn't go in, but it looked like an EDM festival, and it was packed.

    We didn't think about the fact that Barcelona was a large cruise ship destination, but we saw four ships docked or just leaving. That is a lot of people flooding into the city. We definitely heard much more English spoken here than when we were in Porto or Santiago.

    We ended the evening with dinner at a tapas restaurant to try some local tapas favorites. We also tried out a small brew pub next to our hotel. They had 3 gluten-free beers, so I (Jack) was excited to have options.

    We have an 11 am flight to Dulles in Washington and hope to catch Ashley on our way through. Now, back to the "real world. "    Read more

    Trip end
    September 3, 2024
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